17 365 e series magnum operator's manual by Norfield

E SERIES MAGNUM OPERATOR’S MANUAL

Effective S/N: DJ-29-16-E Release: 1

Document Number: 17-365

First Release:

June, 2012

Norfield Industries P.O. Box 459 Chico, Ca. 95927 Technical Support: (530) 891-4214 - Parts: (800) 824-6242 Serial No: _____________________ Date Sold: _____________________

Norfield Industries is the name that represents Quality, Reliability, Support, Innovation

and True Customer Service. We have been dedicated to providing quality products and excellent customer service for more than 40 years. Norfield Industries has earned a reputation in the pre hanging industry for setting standards for reliable machinery, full technical support, machine parts, full line industrial woodworking tools and supplies and a team of customer care representatives to support you! Our factory-trained technical personnel are ready to assist you on the telephone or in your shop.

TABLE OF CONTENTS Safety Lockout Procedures Specifications Location of Major Components Section 1 - Installation & Setup Section 2 - Operation Section 3 - Settings & Adjustments Section 4 - Special Adjustments Section 5 - Maintenance Section 6 - Troubleshooting Warranty & Parts Replacement Policy Contact Information

5 8 10 12 14 18 23 35 52 55 66 67

SAFETY

SAFETY Safety considerations are an important element of machine installation and operation. Actively maintaining a safety mind set about yourself and others while working around or on the equipment is of primary importance. Operators and maintenance personnel should refer to the safety information on the following pages to familiarize themselves with warning labels and practices providing for safe operation and servicing of this machine. Danger indicates an imminently hazardous situation, which if not avoided WILL result in death or serious injury. Warning indicates a potentially hazardous situation which, if not avoided, COULD result in death or serious injury. Caution indicates a potentially hazardous situation which, if not avoided MAY result in minor or moderate injury. It may also be used to alert against unsafe practices. Caution, without the safety alert symbol, indicates a potentially hazardous situation which, if not avoided MAY result in property damage but not personal injury. Notice indicates important information that if not followed may CAUSE damage to the equipment. Mandatory Action conveys an action step that should be taken to avoid the hazard.

SAFETY

Do not operate this machine unless all guards are in place and working correctly. If any guards or hazard labels are missing or damaged call Norfield’s Service Department immediately and request a replacement at (800) 824-6242. Read and understand the operator’s manual before using this machine. Failure to follow proper operating instructions could result in death or serious injury.

This machine, when in operation, produces wood chips and dust. The operator and all persons in the work area MUST wear approved eye protection with permanently attached, rigid plastic side shields. These safety glasses must conform to ANSI Z87.1 standards and will have “Z87” printed on the lens. This machine, when in operation, produces a noise level greater than 85dB. The operator and all persons in the work area MUST wear approved hearing protection. OSHA has determined that a noise level in excess of 85dB average in 8 hours can cause permanent hearing damage. We recommend that hearing protection be worn even if the decibel level is below 85dB. Certain types of wood dust can cause allergic reactions. Sawdust has been determined to be a Group A carcinogen by the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC). A dust collection system or an approved personal dusk mask MUST be used when operating this equipment.

This machine has moving parts that loose clothing and long hair can become entangled in. Take care not to become caught between the work material and the feed mechanisms or any other moving components.

Before beginning any service repairs, general maintenance, or adjustments you MUST follow proper Lockout Tag-Out procedures. OSHA regulation 1910.147 establishes a minimal lockout tag-out procedure to assist employers in the development of their own procedures.

Only trained personnel that have read and understand the operator’s manual and all the safety precautions may operate this machine.

SAFETY

Inspect the machine at the beginning and end of each shift for damaged or cracked components such as, but not limited to, saw blades, router bits, drill bits, and boring bits.

Never leave this machine unattended while it is in operation. Make sure that all electrical and air is in the off position when the machine is not in use or is unattended and that any cutting blades have come to a complete stop.

Do not attempt to clean material from this machine until all the cutting blades have come to a complete stop. Even when the machine has been turned to the â&#x20AC;&#x153;offâ&#x20AC;? position it may take up to several minutes for the blades to coastdown to a complete stop.

Woodworking machinery is inherently dangerous, common sense and good safety practices are your best defense against injury.

If you have any questions regarding the correct operation of the machine and safety procedures in this manual call the Norfield Industries Service Department at (800)-824-6242

LOCKOUT PROCEDURES

The following is an example of the minimum requirements for a lockout/tagout procedure. Norfield strongly recommends that your company establish its own written procedure. OSHA Regulation 1910.147 establishes a minimal lockout/tagout procedure to assist employers in the development of their own Lockout Procedures

All employees will comply with these procedures. All equipment and/or circuits will be locked out to protect against accidental or inadvertent operation when such operation of the equipment and/or circuits could cause injury to personnel. Do not attempt to operate any switch, valve, or other energy isolating device bearing a lock. Lockout Responsibility The primary responsibility for the proper lockout of equipment and /or circuits on a maintenance or repair project belongs to the project Supervisor and/or Foreman. However, this does not alleviate any sub-contracted maintenance or repair personnel from insuring that proper lockout/tagout procedures are followed at all times. The Supervisor and/or Foreman will insure that each employee is properly instructed in the safety significance of lockout procedures. Preparation for Lock-Out of Circuits and Equipment In the following steps, when more than one individual is involved with the project and required to lock out the equipment and/or circuits, each employee will place their own personal lock on the energy isolating devices. A lock for each individual involved is the preferred method for locking out energy sources. If this not feasible, the designated individual to the work crew (e.g. the project Supervisor or Foreman) with complete knowledge of who is on the crew may be designated by the work crew as the individual responsible for carrying out all steps of the lockout procedure. That individual will inform the work crew when it is safe to work on the equipment and/or circuits. Additionally, the designated individual will not remove a crew lock until it has been verified that ALL individuals are clear. 1. Notify all affected employees and customers that a lockout is required and the reason for it. 2. If the equipment is in operation, after obtaining approval, shut it down by the normal stopping procedures.

LOCKOUT PROCEDURES

Operate the switch, valve or other energy isolating devices so that all energy sources (electrical, mechanical, pneumatic, hydraulic, etc.) are disconnected or isolated from the equipment and/or circuits. Stored energy, such as that in capacitors, springs, elevated machine members, rotating flywheels, hydraulic systems, and air/gas, steam or water pressure, etc., must also be dissipated or restrained by methods such as grounding, repositioning, blocking, bleeding down, etc.

4. All affected employees are then required to lockout the energy devices with their individual lock. 5. After insuring that no personnel are exposed and as a check on having disconnected the energy sources, operate the push button or other normal operation controls to make certain the equipment will not operate. In the event that electrical circuits have been locked out, insure that the circuits are de-energized by applying an appropriate voltage tester that itself has been tested on live circuits. Be sure to return all operating controls to the neutral position. The equipment and/or circuits are now locked out.

Restoring Equipment and/or Circuits to Service 1.

When the job is complete and the equipment or circuits are ready for testing or normal service, check the equipment and/or circuits to insure that no one is exposed.

When the equipment and/or circuits are clear, remove all locks. The energy isolating devices may be operated to restore energy to the equipment and or circuits.

SPECIFICATIONS

SPECIFICATIONS Electrical Supply Requirements AC Line Voltage

Phase

Hertz

Amperage

Comment

208/230 208/230

With Vacuum

Without Vacuum

230/115

--------

Air Requirements PSI

SCFM

Minimum Supply Pipe I.D.

2.2 8.5 w/ optional air screwdriver

1/2” I.D. minimum air line when less than 20 feet from compressor OR 3/4” I.D. minimum when more than 20 feet from compressor.

3 Phase Motor Specifications Application

Motor

Part Number

Volts

Amps

Lock Drill

Norfield

6801-021

208/230

5.9/5.9

Latch Drill

Norfield

6802-032

208/230

3.1/2.8

Sander

Dayton

15-176

208/230

3.1/2.8

Cutterhead

Baldor

15-178

208/230

12.9/11.7

Elevator

Dayton

15-154

1/3

208/230

1.7/1.7

Single Phase Motor Specifications Application

Motor

Part Number

Volts

Amps

Powerfeed

Dayton

15-360

1/15

DC Volts

.75

Butt Router Motor

Dewalt

15-174

1-3/4

115

Faceplate Router

Dewalt

15-174

1-3/4

115

Machine Cycle Rate

30 Doors/Hour

Shipping Weight

Approx. 2600 Lbs

Minimum Floor Space Requirement

Width - 7’-5” Length - 26’-4” Height - 8’-9”

SPECIFICATIONS

Machine Capabilities Door Width

1’-0” - 4’-0”

Door Height

Up to 9’-0”

Door Thickness

1-3/8” - 2-1/4”

Jamb Width

2-1/2” to 10-1/2”

Jamb Length

Up to 9’-0”

Jamb Thickness

1/2” - 1-5/8”

Stop Thickness

1/2” Maximum

Butt Spacing

Variable: 6-1/2” Minimum from top of Door

Butt Radius

1/4” & 5/8”

Butt Size

Standard - 3-1/2”, 4”, 4-1/2” & 5” Optional - 3”

Lock Backsets

2-3/8” to 2-3/4”

Hinge Mortising

0º to 3-1/2º

Faceplate Routing

Up to 1-1/4” x 2-3/4”

12 INDEX BAR & DOOR AND JAMB STOPS

BUTT ROUTER ASSEMBLY

DOOR CLAMP/ DRILL CYCLE FOOT PEDALS

OPERATOR CONTROL PANEL

CUTTERHEAR POWERFEED SANDER

TRAM RAIL (6805-115)

GENERAL ASSEMBLY (FRONT)

INFEED BED ASSEMBLY

MAIN BAR (6805-127)

UNDERCUT REFERENCE ASSEMBLY

JAMB CLAMP & REFFERENCE ASSEMBLY

-LOCK DRILL -LATCH DRILL -DOOR CLAMPS -FACEPLATE ROUTER ASSEMBLY

1’-0” DOOR SUPPORTS

DOOR ROLLERS

HARDWARE TRAY (6807-113)

LOCATION OF MAJOR COMPONENTS

FILTER REGULATORLUBRICATOR

TRAM RAIL

FACEPLATE ROUTER ASSEMBLY

FORK LIFT POCKETS

MAIN ELECTRICAL PANEL

GENERAL ASSEMBLY (REAR)

AXILIARY ELECTRICAL PANEL

UNDERCUT REFERENCE ASSEMBLY

BELT GUARD (6807-028) WIDTH INDEX MOTOR

T-TRACK ASSMEBLY

LOCATION OF MAJOR COMPONENTS

INSTALLATION & SETUP

SECTION 1: INSTALLATION & SETUP The following information should be read completely before any attempt is made to uncrate, install or operate the machine. Before operating the machine, the following 5 items need to be accomplished: 1.

Uncrate the machine and inspect for shipping damages or shortages.

Position the machine in its permanent location.

Provide the proper electrical supply and make connections.

Provide the proper air supply and make connections.

Provide material for set-up and adjustment of the machine.

1-1

UNCRATING AND POSITIONING THE MACHINE:

The shipping crate for the Magnum is made up of a rigid wood base to which the machine is secured. A protective plastic cover and wood framework surround the machine. Also, a box containing small components and spare parts is usually enclosed in the crate. Before uncrating and positioning the machine, study the installation drawing on the next page. Make sure that adequate clearance for material handling and machine access are provided. To uncrate the machine, the following procedure is recommended: 1. 2. 3.

Remove the wood framework and plastic covering. With the machine still on the base, move it close as possible to its permanent location. Rollers can be placed under the crate base that it can be moved into position easily. Remove the bolts securing the machine to the base and lift the machine into position.

1-2

SHIPPING DAMAGE AND SHORTAGES:

After the machine has been uncrated, inspect the entire machine and all other contents in the crate for shipping damage. In the event there was damage in transit, notify the freight carrier and Norfield immediately. While any shortages or freight damages are the responsibility of the carrier, Norfield desires to be notified as soon as possible so that the replacement of lost or damaged parts can be expedited.

1-3

MOVING AND POSITIONING THE MACHINE:

After the machine has been uncrated and inspected for shortages or damage, it can be moved to its permanent position. NOTE: MOVE THE MACHINE USING THE FORK LIFE POCKETS AT THE BOTTOM OF THE FRAME Position the machine allowing adequate clearance behind the machine for electrical and air connections. Also, allow ample space in front and to the sides for material handling (FIG 1-1).

INSTALLATION & SETUP

ALLOW 3’ TO 4’ CLEARANCE BETWEEN BACK OF MACHING AND WALL 12-1/2”

45”

MATERIAL FLOW 19’-0”

FIGURE 1-1 (TOP VIEW) Position the machine with the dimensions in Fig 1-1 in mind. If the machine is going to be positioned near a wall, it is recommended that 3’ to 4’ clearance be provided for access to the electrical enclosures and components on the rear of the machine. Material flow in and out of the machine also needs to be considered. On the infeed end of the machine a minimum of 8’ clearance is recommended for loading doors. On the outfeed end, at least 4’ is recommended for material removal. If a portable dust collector is being used, placement of the machine should allow adequate space for the unit.

FORK LIFT POCKETS AIR CONNECTION

VACUUM CONNECTION

ELECTRICAL CONNECTION

FIGURE 1-2

INSTALLATION & SETUP 1-4 AIR SUPPLY AND CONNECTIONS: The Magnum requires 2.2 CFM of clean, dry air @ 90 PSI (8.5 CFM if air screwdriver and pre-drill is used) for proper operation. The air supply is connected to the machine at the filter-regulator-lubricator (FRL) unit located on the outfeed end of the main frame (FIG 1-2). The supply line should be 1/2” minimum if the length of the run is 75’ or less. For runs between 100’ and 300’, a 3/4” supply line is recommended. For convenience, a quick disconnect at the connection point and an air shut-off valve near the machine is recommended.

1-5

ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS:

NOTE: All electrical connections should be made by a qualified electrician. Before making any electrical connections, insure that the voltage listed on the electrical box and circuit breakers matches that of your facility (i.e. 230V - 3 Phase -40 Amp). Refer to Figure 1-3 for the standard electrical connections. Norfield recommends that you have a main disconnect switch for the input source near the machine. This switch is usually wall mounted near the machine in a position convenient to the operator (or maintenance person) for safety reasons. After power has been connected, check the rotation of the Lock Drill Motor. Correct rotation has the motor turning COUNTER-CLOCKWISE when viewed from the front of the machine. If the rotation is not correct, have the electrician reverse the two outside leads on the three phase input. THREE PHASE CONNECTION - CONNECT HIGHEST VOLTAGE LEG TO CENTER LUG

THREE PHASE INPUT SINGLE PHASE INPUT NEUTRAL

GROUND MAIN ELECTRICAL PANEL

FIGURE 1-3

INSTALLATION & SETUP

1-6 VACUUM REQUIREMENT: A dust collection system must be used with this machine. If the machine is connected to an existing inplant dust collection system, the system must be capable of moving at least 1900 CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute) at the connection point. Vacuum connection is made two 4â&#x20AC;? Vacuum Connection ducts which are located on the back of the machine. (see Figure 1-2). If the Norfield Vacuum unit was purchased with this machine, a cord end is provided on the backside of the machine (230V Phase 3 @ 10A) for automatic starting. Allow adequate space for access to the dust bags and controls of the vacuum system. The vacuum unit may be placed behind or at either end of the Magnum depending on the layout of your shop. It is important to have as few bends as possible in the 4â&#x20AC;? vacuum hoses (connecting the vacuum unit to the machine) as this may affect the efficiency of the vacuum.

OPERATION

SECTION 2: OPERATION 2-1 PREFACE: The following is a brief description of the operation procedures of the Magnum. It is recommended that before processing a door, the operator should make sure that the machine is properly adjusted for door width, undercut, hinge size and location, lock height, backset, size of lock and latch bores and size of the faceplate rout. Proper procedures for making these adjustments are outlined in Section 4. Refer to figure 2.1 below for adjustment locations.

UNDERCUT REFERENCE ASSEMBLY

JAMB CLAMP & REFFERENCE ASSEMBLY TRAM RAIL (6805-115)

MAIN BAR (6805-127)

INFEED BED ASSEMBLY

CUTTERHEAR POWERFEED SANDER

HARDWARE TRAY (6807-113)

OPERATOR CONTROL PANEL BUTT ROUTER ASSEMBLY INDEX BAR & DOOR AND JAMB STOPS DOOR CLAMP/ DRILL CYCLE FOOT PEDALS

GENERAL ASSEMBLY (FRONT)

-LOCK DRILL -LATCH DRILL -DOOR CLAMPS -FACEPLATE ROUTER ASSEMBLY

DOOR ROLLERS 1’-0” DOOR SUPPORTS

FIGURE 2-1

OPERATION

2-2 OPERATING THE MACHINE 1.

Turn on SIZER, POWERFEED, and DRILLS motors (In that order). These motors should remain “ON” unless the machine is to be idle for an extended period of time. Please refer to figure 2.2 below.

Adjust the Top Section for correct door width. On the operator control panel there are two 3-position selector switches that spring return to the center. They are under the heading “DOOR WIDTH”. One is labeled FAST in the center and UP and DOWN. The other is labeled SLOW in the center and UP and DOWN.

There are two methods that can be used to set door width. One is used for automatically stopping at the standard 2 inch increments and at your pre-set door undercut. The other method is used to set the machine for any door width between 1-6 and 4-0 by reading the door width scale, see figure 2.1. Move the top section in the direction needed to obtain the correct setting by the FAST switch in either the UP or DOWN position. When you are approximately 1/2 inch to 1/4 inch below the desired door width, rotate the SLOW switch to the UP position and release it. The top section will go up slow and stop at the next door width . If you would like to do a special width door, rotate the FAST switch to either the UP or DOWN position, as necessary, and watch the scale until it is near the width you desire, then momentarily turn (or bump) the FAST switch until the scale reads the correct door width. Fast Door Width Adjustment

Slow Door Width Adjustment

FIGURE 2-2

OPERATION

Pick up a door and turn it up on edge so that it can be sighted for straightness. If a bow is noticed, place the door on the infeed bed so that the bow is toward the machine (if possible). This way the bow will be away from the stop on the jamb when the door is closed.

Adjust the door width with the infeed bed control lever until the undercut reference marks align (see Figure 2-3).

ALIGNMENT MARKS

FIGURE 2-3 5.

Slide the door into the powerfeed system where it will be sized, beveled, and the edges sanded. To adjust the speed of the powerfeed wheel adjust the knob located in the operator control panel (see Figure 3-4). For light cuts and soft woods it can be set at the fastest speed, but should be reduced for heavier cuts and hard woods for better performance.

If the next door to be processed is the same width as the door in the machine, sight it for straightness and then place it on the infeed bed in the “holding” position (leading end just under the first roller of the undercut reference assembly).

Place the jamb in the desired position on the jamb rack (right or left hand) by pushing the dado end against the appropriate jamb stop.

By this time the first door will be waiting in the drill section. Roll it against door stop at the same end as the jamb is located. While pressing the door against the main bar and the door stop, operate the foot pedal to clamp the door.

Start the lock/latch drill and latch plate mortise cycle by depressing the foot pedal (located to the right of the clamp pedal). Release the router carriage by pushing the button on the left side of the router carriage handle. CAUTION: the motor will automatically start when lowered to about 25 degrees. Lower the router carriage until the locating dog drops over the “top hinge” index block. The router bit should be between the door and jamb.

10. Clamp the router carriage to the door making sure that the jamb is in contact with the bottom of the router carriage. If the jamb requires moving up or down to compensate for different thickness jambs activate the control which is located on the front of the butt router. It is a two-way toggle switch, pushing it up raises the jamb and pushing it down lowers the jamb. When the jamb switch is released a brake is applied to hold it in the desired position.

OPERATION

11. Mortise the door and jamb. When the mortise is complete the router carriage should be stopped in the forward position over the door. This positions the router carriage so that when it is lifted it is captured in the appropriate position for lowering the next time. If you fail to do this, the next time the router carriage is lowered it will bring the bit down into the jamb. 12. Unclamp the carriage from the door and move the carriage to the next hinge location. It is not necessary to lift the router carriage to its full up and locked position between mortises. When the last mortise is completed, raise the carriage up until it locks. 13. Apply the hinges. 14. Unclamp the door and fold the jamb toward you. 15. Remove the door unit from the machine. 16. As the operator walks to the left for another door, he grasps the door that is in â&#x20AC;&#x153;holdingâ&#x20AC;? and pushes it into the powerfeed.

THIS PAGE IS DELIBERATELY LEFT BLANK

SETTINGS AND ADJUSTMENTS

SETTINGS AND ADJUSTMENTS 3-1 Regulator Setting 3-1 Air Tool Lubricator Setting 3-3 Adjustment for Door Width 3-4 Adjustment for Nominal Width Doors 3-5 Adjustment for Odd Width Doors 3-6 Undercut 3-7 Backset Adjustment 3-8 Lock Height 3-9 Header Clearance 3-10 Changing the Lock Bit 3-11 Changing the Latch Drill Bit 3-12 Changing the Lock Bore Back-Up Block 3-13 Sander Adjustment 3-14 Changing the Butt Spacing 3-15 Changing Mortise Size 3-16 Changing Mortise Radius 3-17 Mortising Flat Jambs 3-18 Mortise Depth 3-19 Butt Router for Exterior Jamb and Mullions 3-20 Machining 1’-0” & 1’-4” Doors

24 24 25 25 25 26 27 27 28 29 29 29 29 30 31 31 32 32 33 34

SETTINGS & ADJUSTMENTS

SECTION 3: SETTINGS & ADJUSTMENTS: 3-1 REGULATOR SETTING: Set the regulator at 90 psi. The regulator adjustment knob is located on top of the regulator body. To adjust the pressure, lift the knob to unlock it, turn clockwise to increase the regulated pressure or counterclockwise to reduce the pressure. Push in the knob to lock the setting.

LUBRICATOR ADJUSTMENT KNOB

REGULATOR ADJUSTMENT KNOB

LUBRICATOR BOWL

PARTICULATE FILTER COALESCING FILTER

FIGURE 2-3

3-2 AIR TOOL LUBRICATOR SETTING: Set the drop type lubricator so that two to four drops of oil is mixed with the air supply every minute. Adjustment is accomplished with the adjustment knob which is located next to the oil fill port. Turning the knob counter clockwise increases the oil drip rate. Observe the drip rate through the sight bulb on top of the lubricator.

SETTINGS AND ADJUSTMENTS

3-3 ADJUSTMENT FOR DOOR WIDTH: The top section can be raised or lowered to adjust the machine for any door width between 1-6 and 4-0. There are two methods for establishing door width: 1) index at 2” nominal widths 2) stop the width adjustment at any increment using the width scale. The controls for making this adjustment, the “DOOR WIDTH” switches are located on the main control panel at the front of the machine. CAUTION: There should be no doors in the machine when this adjustment is made.

3-4 ADJUSTMENT FOR NOMINAL WIDTH DOORS: To raise or lower the top section rotate the FAST switch to either the UP or DOWN position, as necessary, and watch the scale until you are approximately 1/4” below the width setting you want, then rotate the SLOW switch to the UP position and release it. The top section will go up slow and stop at the next door width.

3-5 ADJUSTMENT FOR ODD WIDTH DOORS: Rotate the FAST switch to either the UP or DOWN position, as necessary, and watch the scale until it is near the width you desire, then momentarily turn (or bump) the FAST switch until the scale reads the correct door width. FAST DOOR WIDTH ADJUSTMENT

SLOW DOOR WIDTH ADJUSTMENT

FIGURE 2-4

SETTINGS & ADJUSTMENTS

3-6 UNDERCUT: The Magnum is designed to size and bevel doors to an exact width. Since many doors come from the manufacturer at nominal width, most pre-hung door manufacturers size all doors 1/16” to 3/16” under nominal size. An 1/8” undercut is most common. A 2’-0” door undercut 1/8” would be 23-7/8” from the hinge edge to the long point of the bevel. The Magnum is adjustable for up to 3/8” undercut on a nominal sized door. For removing more than 3/16”, or in some harder wood stile doors, the powerfeed feed rate must be reduced. CAUTION: Never attempt to make large cuts at a fast powerfeed settings. If you are sizing doors that are considerably oversized and/or you are attempting a large undercut, the cutterhead must be SHARP and the cutterhead V-belt must be TIGHT. It is recommended that you use the slower powerfeed speed settings when large undercuts are made. The machine is factory set for a specific undercut of 1/8”. The undercut scale, located on the side of the left width carriage, displays the undercut the machine is set for. Next to the scale is the undercut adjusting knob. When the undercut pointer aligns with the center “0” mark on the scale, the machine is set to bevel doors at nominal width (no undercut). To change the undercut to 1/8”, loosen the locking knob and adjust the undercut assembly watching the pointer until it aligns with 1/8”. Tighten the locking knob and check the alignment of the pointer and the 1/8” division below the “0” mark again.

UNDERCUT LOCKING KNOB

UNDERCUT SCALE

POINTER FIGURE 3-3

SETTINGS AND ADJUSTMENTS

3-7 BACKSET ADJUSTMENT: The distance from the long point of the beveled edge to the center of the lock bore is referred to as backset. The machine is quickly and easily adjustable between 2-3/8” and 2-3/4”. The backset can be set by flipping the switch on the control panel to either 2-3/8” or 2-3/4”.

BACKSET ADJUSTMENT SWITCH

FIGURE 3-4

3-8 LOCK HEIGHT: Lock height is defined as the distance from the center of the lock bore to the top of the door. On the Magnum, lock height is determined by a door stop that references the top of the door to the Lock Drill and Latch Drill. The standard stop system is adjustable for all standard lock heights up to 8’-0” doors. In order to set the lock height follow the instructions below. 1.

Set the door and jamb stop assembly on the index bar, but do not tighten the locking screws, refer to Figure. 3-5.

Mark a door with a line at the desired lock height from the top of the door, i.e. 44” from the top for a 6-8 door.

SETTINGS & ADJUSTMENTS

Place the door in the door clamps with the top towards the stop you want to set.

Position the door so that you can see the line centered in the back-up block lock bore hole, then clamp the door. Norfield recommends that you draw a line on the back up block in the center bottom of the hole to increase accuracy of this step.

Position the door stop assembly against the top of the door, without moving the stop and tighten the locking screws.

With the drill motors OFF and the door clamped, step on the cycle start foot pedal, when the lock drill bit contacts the door unclamp the door, this will return and reset the drill cycle. Remove the door from the machine and measure from the top of the door to the drill mark left on the door by the bit.

Adjust the door stop screw until you have achieved 44” (or the dimension you desire). INDEX BAR JAMB STOPS

LOCKING SCREWS

DOOR STOP ADJUSTMENT FIGURE 3-5 1/16” TO 1/8” HEADER CLEARANCE

JAMB STOP

DOOR STOP FIGURE 3-6

3-9 HEADER CLEARANCE: Header clearance is the gap between the top of the door and the head jamb, usually 1/16” to 1/8”. Normally this dimension will not require changing. However, if an adjustment is necessary check the lock height first and adjust the jamb stop only if the lock height is correct. Adjusting the door stop to change header clearance will result in an incorrect lock height.

SETTINGS AND ADJUSTMENTS

3-10 CHANGING THE LOCK BIT: ENGAGE THE EMERGENCY STOP OR THE BIT CHANGE SWITCH PRIOR TO ATTEMPTING ANY BIT CHANGES. BE SURE ALL CUTTING TOOLS HAVE COME TO A COMPLETE STOP. The lock drill bit can be changed from the front of the machine. Activate the front panel switch labeled “BIT CHANGE”. Open the drill cover. The lock drill chuck is located on the lock drill motor shaft. There are two set screws in the forward half of this chuck which secure the lock drill bit in place. Loosen these two set screws to remove the drill bit. The replacement bit must have a flat ground on the shank otherwise it will not fit into the chuck. There is a pin inside the chuck to prevent the bit from turning in the chuck in the event the set screws are not properly tightened. When inserting a bit, rotate it until the flat aligns with the pin and push the bit into the chuck until it bottoms out in the chuck. This will permit the door to pass without striking the drill tip and will allow proper chip clearance between the drill and the chip deflector plate just inside the main frame. Tighten the set screws securely.

3-11 CHANGING THE LATCH DRILL BIT:

Supplied standard for the latch drill of your machine is a “single fluted flat type” drill bit. To remove this bit use a adjustable wrench secured across its flats to keep it from turning while you use a 1-1/4” wrench on the flats on the latch drill chuck to break loose the tightened threads. The bit can then be unscrewed by hand. As an option a “double fluted twist type” drill bit is available. To remove it, it is necessary to insert a punch in the hole through the bit to keep it from turning, and then, just as with the “flat” type, use a 1-1/4” wrench on the drill chuck shaft to break loose the tightened threads. When reinstalling a bit use the appropriate method to snug the bit after hand tightening.

3-12 CHANGING THE LOCK BORE BACK-UP BLOCK: Each time the bit size or backset is changed the lock bore backup block must also be changed. The same block may be used not for 2-3/8” and 5” backset with each different bore size, but a separate block must be used when boring at 2-3/4” backset because the bores will overlap. NOTE: Backup blocks must be exactly 3/4” thick or latch drill centering will be changed. Backup blocks can be purchased from Norfield Tools & Supplies @ 1-800-824-6242.

3-13 SANDER ADJUSTMENT: The sander is designed to relieve the sharp corners on the lock edge left by the sizer/ cutterhead. The adjustment for raising the sanding wheels is located just above the sander on the top side of the main frame. Turn the adjustment knob 1/4 turn each time there is an indication that the corners are too sharp. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO USE SANDING WHEELS AFTER THEY ARE WORN SMALLER THAN 4” IN DIAMETER. DOING SO WILL CAUSE THE SANDER WHEELS TO LIFT THE DOOR AND AN UNEVEN BEVELED EDGE WILL RESULT.

SETTINGS & ADJUSTMENTS

3-14 CHANGING BUTT SPACING: From time to time you may need to change your butt spacing on an existing index bar, or set up a new index bar. To accomplish this, the following procedure is suggested: 1.

If changing an existing index bar, use a metal scribe, mark the location of the index blocks when they are set for your standard spacing so you can accurately and quickly return them to standard.

Place the “non-standard” or “set-up” door in the machine, roll it to the proper door stop and clamp it.

Starting at the top of the door measure down the door edge and make a mark where the top of each butt is to be located.

Loosen the set screws in the router index blocks.

Lower router carriage until the locating dog on the router carriage is over the index block nearest the top of the door, and the router carriage is resting on the door.

Slide router carriage back and forth until the applicable “butt reference line” on the door clamp bar is properly aligned with the mark on the door nearest the top of the door, see figure 3.7.

Move the door while holding the stop to tighten set screws in router index block.

Clamp router carriage to door and check to make sure that the lines are still aligned. Repeat the process for the other butts.

If frequent changes in butt spacing are made, we recommend the purchase of a second index bar with six index blocks and two door stops. The entire index bar can be quickly changed by releasing the locking clamp mechanism. Alignment Lines on Clamp Bar (Chip Breaker Removed)

Alignment Lines on Door for Hinge

FIGURE 3-7

SETTINGS AND ADJUSTMENTS

3-15 CHANGING MORTISE SIZE: When all three stop tabs are in the path of the stop bolts (as shown in figure 3-7 below) the mortise will be 3-1/2” wide. As stop tabs are rotated out of the path of the stop bolts the mortise width will increase in 1/2” increments i.e. 4”, 4-1/2” and 5”. Note: 3” Butt Routers have 4 stop tabs on each side. The distance of cut into the door and jamb is controlled by the stop turret which can be rotated to change from between different sized butts. The turret stop screws will fine-tune the mortise distance for each setting.

Stop Tabs

Stop Bolt Mount Block Stop Bolts

Stop Turret

Stop Screws

FIGURE 3-8

3-16 CHANGING MORTISE RADIUS: Mortise radius is determined by the diameter of the router bit being used. A 1/2” diameter bit will produce a 1/4” radius and a 1-1/4” router bit will produce a 5/8” radius. If the router carriage is going to be changed from one radius to another, the following applies: 1.

Change the stop screws in the stop turret - use 10-24 x 3/4” flat head screws for 1/4” radius or 10-24 x 1” flat head screws for 5/8” radius.

Also, when changing radius, the stop bolt mount blocks must be moved. The location of the blocks shown in Figure 3-8 is for 1/4” radius. When going to 5/8” radius move the stop blocks to the outboard set of holes.

Re-adjust width and distance into the door and jamb as required.

If frequent changes are made to the hinge radius, it is suggested that a second butt router be purchased and “parked” out of the way on the tram rail when not in use.

SETTINGS & ADJUSTMENTS

3-17 MORTISING FLAT JAMBS: When mortising flat jambs (jambs with no stop applied) the stop system shown below in Figure 3-9 is used to control the movement of the router into the door and into the jamb. The stop dog is rotated to the “down” position (as shown) and is positioned between the door and jamb when the router is lowered. By adjusting the stop screws, the distance of mortise into the door and jamb is precisely controlled. This

Stop Screws Stop Dog FIGURE 3-9 stop system is generally used for 3-1/2” hinges only. If you have need to mortise for 4” or other sized hinges on jambs with no stop applied, it is recommended you purchase an “extra” flat jamb stop assembly and set it for the required mortise dimensions.

3-18 MORTISE DEPTH: To change mortise depth open the locking clamp lever and position the “zero” on the adjustment ring exactly above the pointer on the router base. Turn the adjustment ring until the bit is at the desired depth. Note that each mark on the adjustment scale represents a depth change of 1/64” (.015”). Close the clamp lever.

Adjustment Ring

Locking Clamp

FIGURE 3-10

SETTINGS AND ADJUSTMENTS

3-19 MACHINING 1’-0” AND 1’-4” DOORS: 1.

Adjust the top section to the correct width, either 1-0”, 1-2” or 1-4” on the Index Scale.

Pull the 1-0” rollers out all the way. The two 1-0” rollers are located on either side of the drill assembly above the regular rollers. See Figure 3-11

Place the door on the 1-0” rollers, set it against the door stop and pull the bottom edge of the door out against the flanges on the rollers, this will ensures that the door is vertical.

Clamp the butt router on the door and machine as normal.

If lock side prep is required , remove the door, push back the rollers and rest the door on the regular rollers. AUXILIARY ROLLERS FOR 1’-0” THRU 1’-4” DOORS

FIGURE 3-11

SPECIAL ADJUSTMENTS

SPECIAL ADJUSTMENTS 4-1 Infeed Bed 4-2 Infeed Bed Clutch 4-3 Outfeed Rollers 4-4 Cutterhead Height 4-5 Cutterhead Mandrel 4-6 Cutterhead Replacement 4-7 Cutterhead Motor Drive Belt 4-8 Sanding Wheels Replacement 4-9 Sander Drive Belt 4-10 Replacement of Powerfeed Wheels 4-11 Centering the Latch Drill in the Door 4-12 Aligning the Lock and Latch Drills 4-13 Adjustment of Drill Sensors - Lock Drill 4-14 Adjustment of Drill Sensors - Latch Drill 4-15 Latch Plate Mortise Centering 4-16 Latch Plate Mortise Depth 4-17 Main Bar 4-18 Jamb Rack Adjustment 4-19 Leveling the Router Carriage 4-20 Changing the Butt Router from 0 to 3-1/2 Deg. 4-21 Butt Router Carriage Bushings

36 37 38 38 38 40 40 40 41 41 42 42 44 44 45 46 46 47 48 50 51

SPECIAL ADJUSTMENTS

SECTION 4: SPECIAL ADJUSTMENTS This section describes special adjustments that may become necessary during the life of this machine. This includes those adjustments that will be necessary to make after certain parts are replaced.

4-1 INFEED BED: The infeed bed must be parallel with the outfeed bed. The combination of the four components - infeed bed, cutterhead, outfeed bed, and outfeed rollers add up to a bed-type planner (or Jointer). If the infeed bed is parallel to the outfeed bed, but 1/8â&#x20AC;? under the outfeed bed, then you would remove 1/8â&#x20AC;? from the door at the high point of the bevel. The Outfeed bed is not adjustable. The Infeed bed, Cutterhead & Outfeed rollers are all adjusted in relation to the Outfeed bed. Should you experience problems in cutting a straight edge on your doors we urge you to proceed with caution in your efforts to correct the problem. Ninety-nine percent of all problems in this area arise from the cutterhead rather than the infeed bed, outfeed bed or rollers. If you have attempted to solve your problem and you are completely satisfied that the problem is not with the cutterhead, then we suggest you call the factory before attempting to adjust the infeed bed.

LOCKING BOLTS INFEED BED

LEVELING ADJUSTMENT

FIGURE 4-1

SPECIAL ADJUSTMENTS

4-2 INFEED BED CLUTCH: The clutch is located on the infeed bed pivot shaft inside the frame. The purpose of this clutch is to provide the proper amount of friction for the infeed bed handle so that it can be adjusted and will stay where you leave it. As the friction discs wear after long periods of service, a lessening of the friction may be noticed. When this occurs, a slight adjustment of the clutch is necessary. 1.

Back off all tension screws at least three turns.

Loosen the adjusting nut set screw at least six turns.

Reset the adjusting nut. Turn clockwise for more torque or counterclockwise for less. One valley at a time.

Tighten the adjusting nut set screw in nearest spline notch. Do not tighten set screw on threads of hub.

Tighten the tension screws alternately and evenly until the heads bottom. Do not use washers under heads of these screws.

Check the friction on the infeed bed handle to see if it is too tight or to loose. If necessary, re-adjust until the proper tension is provided.

TENSION SCREWS

SET SCREW

ADJUSTING NUT

FIGURE 4-2

4-3 OUTFEED ROLLERS: To the right of the outfeed bed, facing the machine, there are four rollers called outfeed rollers. They are positioned at the factory and are referenced to the outfeed bed. It is not likely they will ever get out of adjustment. Adjusting these rollers in the field by other than factory trained service people is not recommended. If there is a problem in obtaining a straight edge on the door the problem is most likely the cutterhead or possibly the Infeed Bed. For instance, if an undersized cutterhead is placed on the machine or if the Infeed Bed is tilted forward, the door will “bump” the outfeed bed and cause a “nick” in the door edge at 11” from the front end of the door. Investigate the cutterhead and/or infeed bed and make adjustments. After years of use, the outfeed rollers will wear to the point that they will need to be replaced. Their useful life can be extended by keeping them and the shafts they turn on, clean at all times and by reversing them on the shafts periodically. This is practical since only the high point of the bevel actually rolls on the rollers.

4-4 CUTTERHEAD HEIGHT: The “effective cutting height” of the cutterhead is a term used to describe the location of the long point of the bevel on the door as it is being sized. The long point of the bevel is always towards the machine and the door slides against a permanent reference, or fence. It doesn’t matter how thick the door is, the effective cutting height of the cutterhead remains constant, assuming the diameter of the cutterhead and the “set” of the blades remain constant. The relationship between the effective cutting height and the outfeed bed is extremely critical. THEY MUST BE THE SAME HEIGHT, or an uneven edge will result. If you change the cutterhead and the new cutterhead is smaller in diameter or if the blades are set differently, and a problem with the sized edge develops, you should determine what the problem is with the cutterhead and resolve it before making adjustments. Adjust the height of the cutterhead mandrel to the outfeed bed only as a last resort, first determine what has changed to create the problem.

4-5 CUTTERHEAD MANDREL: Before beginning any service repairs, general maintenance, or adjustments you MUST follow proper Lockout Tag-Out procedures. OSHA regulation 1910.147 establishes a minimal lockout tag-out procedure to assist employers in the development of their own procedures.

Should the need arise to remove the cutterhead mandrel assembly from the machine to replace the bearings, or to install a new mandrel assembly. The following procedure is recommended, refer to Figure 4-3. 1.

Turn off all electrical power and lock and tag-out the machine.

Remove cutterhead shroud, pulley and belt.

Loosen lower set screw (inside machine just under mandrel) one turn.

Remove 4 bolts that secure mandrel to frame.

Install a new mandrel (or mandrel with new bearings).

Moderately tighten the 4 bolts that secure mandrel to frame.

Tighten bottom set screw.

Tighten 4 bolts securely.

Replace cutterhead.

10. Place a beveled door with a straight-edge down its length, on the outfeed bed. Pressing the door firmly against the machine, roll it to your left until the left end of the door is over the cutterhead. Using the pressure of the second powerfeed wheel to hold the door in place, rotate the cutterhead backwards. The cutter knives should touch the door, but still turn freely. If this condition does not exist, raise or lower cutterhead until you achieve this condition.

MOUNTING BOLTS

MANDREL ASSY

BOTTOM SET SCREW

FIGURE 4-3

SPECIAL ADJUSTMENTS 4-6 CUTTERHEAD REPLACEMENT: The condition of the cutterhead should be inspected daily. The cutterhead knives are carbide which means that anything metallic, either in the door or stuck to it, will chip or actually break one or more knives. It is good practice never to put a door “edge down” on the floor as foreign particles (rocks, dirt, metal particles, screws, etc.) may be picked up by the edge of the door. A chip in the cutterhead will show up on the door as a ridge the entire length of the beveled edge. To replace the cutterhead: 1.

Turn off all electrical power and lock and tag-out the machine .

Open the front cover to expose cutterhead and powerfeed wheels.

Remove locking pin from first powerfeed plate.

Remove the cap on cutterhead vacuum shroud.

Using two wrenches, hold the mandrel shaft and loosen the cutterhead nut. (LH threads on mandrel shaft).

Remove dull cutterhead and replace or replace disposable insert blades.

Reinstall the nut, vacuum cap, powerfeed plate locking pin and close the cover. The use of a dull Cutterhead will shorten the life of the mandrel bearings, drive belt and the motor.

4-7 CUTTERHEAD MOTOR DRIVE BELT: Your cutterhead motor is equipped with a motor base/belt tension device. Loosen the lock nuts securing the motor base to the rails (not screws that secure rails to frame) and turn the adjusting bolts clockwise to force the motor away from the cutterhead mandrel. Be careful to keep the motor drive pulley aligned with the mandrel pulley. After taking up the slack in the belt, tighten the lock nuts. Check for 1/4” deflection of the belt at center between the motor pulley and mandrel pulley.

4-8 SANDING WHEELS REPLACEMENT: 1.

Turn off all electrical power and lock and tag-out the machine.

Open the powerfeed cover and the locking pin from the second powerfeed plate.

Use a punch to keep shaft from rotating while loosening the locking nut.

Note carefully the side of the sander wheel which is abrasive and replace the new wheels one at a time. The two shafts turn toward each other so the wheel goes on the first shaft, the closer of the two shafts, with the abrasive at the top of the wheel toward the door. The second sander wheel goes on the rear shaft also with the abrasive toward the door. Be careful not to loosen the bushings.

SPECIAL ADJUSTMENTS

Each wheel requires a bushing and a pair of 5/8” flat washers on either side of its hub.

Reinstall bushings, wheels, and nuts (NOTE: left-hand threads on the long shaft).

Lower the sander with the knob on top of the machine until the wheel is just touching the opening in the frame.

Reinstall locking pin in powerfeed plate and close guard.

4-9 SANDER DRIVE BELT: The sander wheels present no great load so the sander double V-belt need not be tight. In fact, if the belt is overly tight, the belt life is very short. Loosen the 3/8”-16 hex bolt and raise or lower the idler pulley mounting block until there is about 1” deflection of the belt on the nearly vertical section of the belt nearest the infeed end of the machine. Be careful not to miss-align the idler pulley as it is adjusted.

IDLER PULLEY

FIGURE 4-4

4-10 REPLACEMENT OF POWERFEED WHEELS: Do not over tighten the sanding wheels - it will cause excessive wear . A light touch on the door edge is all that is required. Should the need arise to replace one or both powerfeed motors, scribe a line around the base of the motor to be replaced so the new motor can be mounted in the exact position of the original. This is important as the motors are “canted” at the factory so as to create enough downward pressure on the door to overcome the lifting action of the cutterhead and sanding wheels. Without this “cant” there is no assurance that the edge of the door will be straight. On the other hand, if the “cant” is too great, the door will be pulled down on the cutter assembly so much that the door will hit the outfeed bed, causing a poor edge on the door.

SPECIAL ADJUSTMENTS

4-11 CENTERING THE LATCH DRILL IN THE DOOR: To check the centering of the latch drill, press door against Main Bar, roll it to door stop and clamp in the usual manner. Bore and drill for the lock and latch bolt. Measure the amount the latch bolt is off center in the door edge and the amount it is off center where it enters the lock bore. If the latch hole is off center more where it enters the door edge than where it enters the lock bore. The problem can usually be corrected by following these steps: 1. 2.

Turn off all electrical power to the machine and lock and tag-out. Note the amount the latch hole is off center from the last door to be machined.

Measure and record the distance from the center of the latch drill to the main frame. Add or subtract step #2 measurement from this distance.

Loosen the eight hex bolts, four on each side of the latch drill assembly that secure the assembly to the frame mounting brackets.

Move the entire latch drill assembly toward you or away from you to achieve the dimension you arrived at in step 3 above. The latch drill assembly can be moved in and out, and the parallel to the frame can be changed by moving the top or bottom unequally to correct the angle drilled into the door.

Tighten the hex bolts.

4-12 ALIGNING THE LOCK AND LATCH DRILLS: Under normal operating conditions the lock and latch drills will remain properly aligned. However, should the machine (or in particular the lock drill) sustain a severe jar, the lock and latch drills can become misaligned. Also, should you remove the lock drill motor for repair or replacement the new or repaired motor will need to be realigned with the latch drill. Following is a suggested procedure: 1.

Clamp door.

Cycle the lock and latch drills to bore a set of test holes in a door.

Remove the door and extend lines from the lock hole edge to the door edge with a square.

Measure from the lines drawn in step 3 to the latch hole. Measurement “A” should equal measurement “B”.

If the bores are not aligned, the latch drill can be adjusted in relation to the lock drill by loosening the securing nut for the stop bolt shown in Figure 4-5, make the bolt longer to move the latch drill to the operator’s left or make the bolt shorter to move the latch drill to the operator’s right, then retighten the nut.

SPECIAL ADJUSTMENTS

CENTERING ADJUSTMENT BOLT

FIGURE 4-5 (Back view of machine)

LATCH BORE

LOCK BORE

FIGURE 4-5A

SPECIAL ADJUSTMENTS

4-13 ADJUSTMENT OF DRILL SENSORS - LOCK DRILL Under normal operating conditions the lock drill will remain properly adjusted for depth of cut. However, should the need arise for adjustment, the sensors on the cylinder will need to be moved. As shown in Figure 4.6, there are three sensors. The home sensor indicates that the lock drill has returned to its resting position. If it is not triggered the drill cycle will not start. The door pull sensor is used when the operator wants a pocket ,not a full bore, through the door. This may need adjustment if the depth of cut needs to be changed. The lock bore limit sensor may need adjustment if the cutter is not cutting completely through the door. To adjust these sensors all that is needed is a flat blade screwdriver. First loosen the machine screw then move the sensor along the cylinder as needed. Tighten down the screw when done.

LOCK BORE LIMIT SENSOR

DOOR PULL SENSOR

HOME SENSOR

FIGURE 4-6

4-14 ADJUSTMENT OF DRILL SENSORS - LATCH DRILL Under normal operating conditions the latch drill will remain properly adjusted for depth of cut. However, should the need arise for adjustment, the sensors on the cylinder will need to be moved as was the case with the lock drill. As shown in Figure 4.7 (next page) there are three sensors. The home sensor indicates that the latch drill has returned to its resting position. If it is not triggered the drill cycle will not start. The short stroke sensor is used for certain backsets. This may need adjustment if the depth of cut needs to be changed. The latch bore limit sensor may need adjustment if the cutter is not cutting completely through the lock bore. To adjust these sensors all that is needed is a flat blade screwdriver. First loosen the machine screw then move the sensor along the cylinder as needed. Tighten down the screw when done.

SPECIAL ADJUSTMENTS

LATCH BORE LIMIT SENSOR SHORT STROKE SENSOR FIGURE 4-7

HOME SENSOR

4-15 LATCH PLATE MORTISE CENTERING To center the latch mortise on the latch bore lengthwise on the door, there are two adjustment bolts that contact stop tabs, shown in Figure 4-8. Note that the bolt controlling the length of the mortise to the operator’s right is actuated by a pneumatic cylinder. The adjustment bolts should come already adjusted from the factory. When both stop tabs are in place for each bolt, the faceplate mortise should be 2-1/4” in length; when one stop tab for each bolt is moved away, the faceplate mortise length should be 2-1/2”; and with both tabs removed the faceplate length should be 2-3/4.” Be sure to have the same amount of stop tabs in place for each bolt for a symmetric mortise. If the bolts should come out of adjustment or a different faceplate length is wanted, first loosen the nut securing the bolt, move the bolt in to make the mortise longer or out to make it shorter and re-tighten the nut. Centering the latch plate mortise in the width edge of the door is accomplished by adjusting two stop bolts as needed. The stop bolt, in Figure 4-9, in the front of the machine controls the position of the mortise to the edge of the door facing the back of the machine, and the stop bolt shown in Figure 4-10 controls position of the mortise on the edge closest to the operator. FACEPLATE MORTISE ADJUSTMENT BOLT (OPERATOR’S RIGHT) FACEPLATE MORTISE ADJUSTMENT BOLT (OPERATOR’S LEFT)

FIGURE 4-8 (BACK VIEW OF MACHINE)

SPECIAL ADJUSTMENTS

FACEPLATE MORTISE DEPTH CONTROL BOLT

FACEPLATE MORTISE WIDTH ADJUSTMENT BOLT

FIGURE 4-9

FACEPLATE MORTISE WIDTH ADJUSTMENT BOLT

FIGURE 4-10 (BACK VIEW OF MACHINE)

SPECIAL ADJUSTMENTS

4-16 LATCH PLATE MORTISE DEPTH: To mortise deeper, move the two nuts down on the faceplate mortise depth control bolt, shown in Figure 4-9. To make the mortise more shallow, move the same two nuts up. A test door may have to be cut and measured a few times in order to achieve the correct dimension.

4-17 MAIN BAR: CALIBRATION CHECKS: The Main Bar is the rectangular long tube assembly that is fixed to the width carriage assemblies. It must be parallel to the outfeed rollers. To ascertain this, select a door that has just been sized and beveled, measure it to make sure it has no taper, check the scale on the machine to see if it reads the exact width of the door you just measured, and then place it on the outfeed rollers. Now, at each end of the door, measure from the hinge edge down to the main bar. This measurement should be 2-1/2” at each location. If the dimension of the door to the main bar are equal but are not 2-1/2”, the following procedure should be used: 1. 2. 3. 4.

Calculate the difference of error from 2-1/2” , as an example if the actual measurement is 2-7/16” the error would be 1/16”. Move the door width scale pointer by the amount of the error, up for a measurement less than 2-1/2”, and down for a greater dimension until you achieve the required 2-1/2”. After moving the scale you will need to re-set the door width using the elevator buttons. Re-calibrate the pointer on the undercut scale by loosening the pointer and moving it to the correct reading. The reading of the scale should be the same as the undercut of the door sized. The indicator lines on the undercut reference roller assembly may also need calibration, The red lines should align when the door is 2-1/2” above the main bar.

If the dimension on the undercut scale is different than the measured door width, the following procedure should be used: 1. Re-calibrate the undercut scale by moving the pointer until it reads correctly, only move the pointer without adjusting the assembly up or down. 2. Re-calibrate the undercut reference roller indicator until you have the 2-1/2” dimension and the proper undercut, this may require repeating steps one and two several times. 3. Set the undercut scale to read exactly what the door width is by moving the pointer. If the dimensions are not equal from the hinge edge of the door to the main bar, adjust the width carriage on the outfeed end (right side) by moving the torque tube gear up or down as required, an adjustment screw is provided at that location.

SPECIAL ADJUSTMENTS

4-18 JAMB RACK ADJUSTMENT: Angular Adjustment The jamb supports should be at a 90 degree angle from the face of the door. This can be checked using a framing square. The jamb rack (aluminum extrusion with eight (8) jamb supports) can be rotated to achieve the correct angle. To rotate the jamb rack, flip the switch on the control panel to either 0ยบ or 3-1/2ยบ.

FIGURE 4-11

FIGURE 4-12

JAMB RACK ANGULAR ADJUSTMENT SWITCH

SPECIAL ADJUSTMENTS

Parallel Adjustment The jamb needs to be parallel with the edge of the door for consistent hinge mortising. This can be checked by raising the jamb to the correct height and checking the relationship between the face of the jamb and the edge of the door at both ends of the machine using a framing square set flat on the jamb and the edge of the door. If adjustment is necessary, loosen the jamb nut on the cylinder rod, remove the clevis pin from the clevis and then rotate the clevis to either extend or retract the length between the cylinder and the link. This in turn will raise or lower the jamb rack and jamb to obtain parallelism. A combination of adjustment on both ends of the cylinder may be necessary. Index Bar

Clevis Pin

Rod End Clevis

Jamb

Jamb Nut

Jamb Lift Cylinder

Link

FIGURE 4-13

4-19 LEVELING THE ROUTER CARRIAGE: In order for the mortises to be the same depth in the door and in the jamb, the router carriage must be level (perpendicular to the face of the door) before and after clamping it in place. Before attempting to level the router carriage, ascertain that the following two conditions exist. •

The hinge edge of a square (non-tapered) door is 2-1/2” above and parallel to the main bar (Figure 4-10). If this is not the case, the main bar assembly needs to be adjusted (see section 4-17). If the main bar is not correctly adjusted the mortises will be deeper in the door at one end, and deeper in the jamb at the other.

•

A 1/32” gap exists between the door clamp bar and the face of the door when the router carriage is resting un-clamped on the door edge and the door is referenced against the main bar. If the gap is less than 1/32”, the clamp bar will strike the edge of the door as the carriage is lowered. If it is greater than 1/32”, the action of the clamp cylinder will pull the plate and tram rollers forward causing the pivot point to lower and a deeper mortise in the jamb will result. If the gap is not 1/32”, loosen the four screws that secure the adjusting bolts to the back plate and adjust the carriage by turning the

SPECIAL ADJUSTMENTS

adjusting bolts equally to attain the 1/32” gap. Retighten the screws. If the jamb reference bars do not rest flat on the door edge, the following procedure will correct this (refer to Figure 4-11). 1.

Make sure that the door edge is square

Loosen the three tram rollers and raise or lower the back plate until the jamb reference bars are resting flat on the door edge.

Tighten the top center roller.

Position and tighten the two lower rollers, leaving 1/32” clearance between the roller and the tram rail. This will permit the carriage to “rock”, thus conforming to the door edge should the edge be slightly bowed.

Adjust the felt wipers to effectively wipe the top surface of the tram rail.

Tram Rail

Door Clamp Bar Door

FIGURE 4-14

Back Plate

Tram Roller

Felt Wiper Adjusting Bolt FIGURE 4-15

SPECIAL ADJUSTMENTS

4-20 CHANGING THE BUTT ROUTER FROM 0 TO 3-1/2 DEG. This feature allows the E Series Magnum to machine hinge mortises flush with the beveled edge of a double-beveled door. Changing the angle of the butt router is achieved by flipping the switch on the control panel labeled “Jamb Rack” to either 0º or 3-1/2º.

FIGURE 4-16 Pivot Lock Pin

FIGURE 4-17

JAMB RACK ANGULAR ADJUSTMENT SWITCH

SPECIAL ADJUSTMENTS

4-21 BUTT ROUTER CARRIAGE BUSHINGS: The useful life of the bushings in your router carriage will depend upon how well the rods they slide on are kept clean. If any type of lubricant is used on the rods, the bushings will be short-lived. When the bushings do wear to the point where the carriage no longer makes an acceptable mortise, you may (1) replace the bushings yourself, (2) have them replaced at a machine shop, or (3) purchase a rebuilt router carriage from the factory. If you choose to install new bushings into the carriage yourself, you will need a press and two line reamers, one 1/2” and one 5/8”. To replace, press or drive the old bushing out FROM THE OPPOSITE END and press the new bushings in, taking care not to damage them. Once inserted, line ream each pair of bushings to fit the matching slide rod. Since most door shops do not normally have presses and line reamers, we would suggest you contact the factory for a replacement carriage, as the cost will, as a rule, not exceed the cost of taking your router carriage to a machine shop. Plus you save the down time. CONTACT NORFIELD’S SERVICE DEPARTMENT FOR ADVICE IF YOU PLAN ON CHANGING THE ROUTER BUSHINGS YOURSELF.

MAINTENANCE

SECTION 5: MAINTENANCE 5-1 GENERAL MAINTENANCE: Door machines work in an environment of endless sawdust. Sawdust is not only very abrasive when allowed to penetrate motors, bearings, etc., but it also contains pitch. Pitch clings to sliding surfaces and eventually coats the bearings. Mechanisms become â&#x20AC;&#x153;stickyâ&#x20AC;? and, if not cleaned, soon become inoperable. To combat the effects of sawdust on your machine the following recommendations are made: 1.

Using an air hose, blow all motors and routers off 2-3 times daily.

Clean slide rods on router carriage and latch drill daily with a non-oil based solvent (Electrical/Electronic Grade Contact Cleaner), and wipe rods completely dry with clean dry cloth. DO NOT LUBRICATE! Any type of lubrication on these slide rods will merely collect more sawdust. Clean and wipe dry the slide rods on the lock and latch drills weekly.

Clean gears and gear racks on elevator mechanism daily. A good stiff brush is best, but an air hose is better than nothing. DO NOT LUBRICATE! Wipe vertical posts on elevator clean daily.

Once a month remove door edge rollers and clean the roller I.D. and shaft O.D. with a non-oil based solvent, electrical/electronic contact cleaner. Wipe dry, DO NOT LUBRICATE!

Inspect and clean weekly the two cam guides and rollers on the jamb rack These components are located on the backside of the jamb rack on opposite ends. First blow the cavities clean, then take a brush and clean any pitch left on the rollers and guides.

5-2 CUTTERHEADS: When the blades of the Cutterhead become dull or damaged it will be necessary to replace them. Please keep the following three items in mind. 1. Each blade is reversible and can be used twice. 2.

Only use the correct inserts for this cutterhead for proper operation, The replacement blades are available from Norfield Tools and Supplies.

The head turns in excess of 7000 RPM and any imbalance will result in severely shortening the life of the bearings in the cutterhead mandrel, in addition to giving a poor finish to the door edge.

Most local grinding services are not equipped to provide the proper sizing and balancing. Therefore, we urge owners not to send their cutterheads or knives for sharpening. Use only the correct replacement knives. Keep all cutting tools sharp. Dull cutterheads, router bits or drill bits will not only do shabby work, they shorten the life of essential parts of your machine.

MAINTENANCE

5-3 ROUTER BITS: Router bits will need to be sharp to provide a clean, well formed mortise. Check router bits once daily and replace if the router bit looks burnt or dull.

5-4 DRILLS: Drill bits need to be kept sharp at all times Failure to do so will result in the use of additional electrical current and shorten motor and bearing life. Here again, we believe we can do a superior job in sharpening your drill bits and we solicit this work from you.

5-5 FILTERS: The air filters on your machine are designed to further clean air that is not heavily laden with moisture or impurities. If excessive water or pipe scale, etc., is present in the air to the filters, the filters will clog up and pass through the excess water, etc. For this reason if you do not have an in-plant air cleaning system, we suggest you contact the Norfield Service Department or your local air system supplier for assistance in correcting this problem. Water present in air cylinders and valves will severely shorten their life by up to 90%! Check the air filters daily, see Figure 3.1. The drain on the pre-filter (particulate) is automatic, but still needs to be checked daily to make sure it is “dumping” all the water. The particulate air filter will require cleaning at intervals dependent on the quantity of impurities in your air supply. The secondary filter (coalescing) is designed to remove very small impurities and oils from the air. This filter must be replaced when the element appears discolored or dirty. NOTE: A DISCOLORED COALESCING FILTER INDICATES A POSSIBLE PROBLEM WITH THE UPSTREAM AIR SUPPLY

5-6 REGULATOR: Set regulator at 90 PSI

5-7 AIR TOOL LUBRICATOR: Set lubricator to drop (2-4) drop per minute, with one air tool running. This is not a critical adjustment, but excess oil in the air serves no useful purpose. Use 10 wt. turbine oil to refill the lubricator. DO NOT USE HYDRAULIC FLUID, OIL CONTAINING ADDITIVES OR ANY SUBSTANCE NOT RECOMMENDED BY NORFIELD AS THIS MAY CAUSE DAMAGE TO THE MACHINE AND POSSIBLY VOID YOUR WARRANTY.

5-8 CYLINDERS: Keep cylinder shafts clean to prevent excess wear. As seals in all cylinders will take a “set” when not operating, cylinder manufacturers strongly recommend that all cylinders be cycled at least two times each morning before placing a door and jamb in the machine. This will allow the cylinder seals to regain natural sealing ability and will lengthen cylinder life considerably.

MAINTENANCE

5-9 SANDER BELT: Inspect the sander drive belt weekly for tightness, cracks or hard spots at the splice. When adjusting the tension of the belt it is important not to over tighten the sander double V-belt, as this will severely shorten the life of the belt.

5-10 BEARINGS: Inspect the bearings of the cutterhead and sander weekly. Check for noise, play, and smoothness of operation.

5-11 LUBRICATION OF BEARINGS AND BUSHINGS: With the exception of adding oil to the Lubricator, no lubrication is required. All bearings are pre-lubricated and sealed: All bushings are self-lubricating ‘Nylatron’ or ‘Oilite’. Note: Bushing life will be lengthened by keeping slide rods clean. Never use oil, graphite or silicone spray on the bushings of any assembly of your machine to “free” it up. Any foreign substance such as those above will collect fine sawdust and dirt particles which will tend to wear the bushings very quickly. If any assembly is binding, and you have kept the mechanisms clean, the problem is most likely that the parts have become misaligned.

TROUBLE SHOOTING

SECTION 6: TROUBLE SHOOTING 6-1 PREFACE: The first portion of this section is to help familiarize you with the operation of the Magnum by briefly describing what actually happens (mechanically, pneumatically and electrically) when you â&#x20AC;&#x153;push the button,â&#x20AC;? refer to Figure 6.1 for additional assistance. The second and third portions of this section deals with troubleshooting the machine.

6-2 DRILL CYCLE SEQUENCE: Before the drill cycle sequence can start, the operator must first depress the foot clamp pedal to clamp the door. The activation of the foot clamp pedal also enables the drill cycle pedal to operate. This is a safety feature: it prevents the operator from inadvertently ruining a door by attempting to drill it before it is clamped. To start the drill cycle, the operator presses the drill start foot pedal. If the latch drill is fully retracted and the latch drill home position sensor is on, the lock drill valve is then activated by the controller. When the lock drill stroke is far enough out to activate the lock drill return sensor the controller turns the lock drill valve off, and the lock drill returns. When the lock drill has returned the lock drill home position sensor is turned on which then enables the latch drill sensor valve to turn on supplying air to the latch drill cylinder and it begins its stroke. When the latch drill has extended to activate the latch drill return sensor the latch drill valve is turned off, returning the latch drill to its home position. Once the latch drill has returned, the latch drill home position sensor is turned on which enables the latch plate mortise sensor valve to turn on, supplying air to the cylinder which centers the latch plate mortise router on the latch bore and then activates the router. After the router completes its cycle, the cylinder retracts back to its home position. Opening the clamps at any time during this cycle will immediately turn off the valve that is on, returning the drills to their home position and resetting the cycle to the off position. The flow control valves control the speed at which the cylinder retracts and extends when air is fed into either the lock drill or latch drill cylinders. The setting of the lock drill flow control valve determines how fast the lock drill will bore through the door. Drilling time should be 4 seconds. If it is faster, there is danger of overloading the lock drill motor. On certain doors with hardwood drill blocks, a longer drilling time may be required. As the drill sequence occurs the output and input lights on the controller turn on and off as various actions occur, these lights can be a invaluable troubleshooting help. As an example, if you step on the cycle start pedal and the foot pedal light on the controller does not come on when the pedal is engaged, then the controller is not getting the start input, and the machine will not cycle, Taking a close look at the cycle start foot pedal switch is warranted. To assist you in determining the cause of a problem when it occurs, we have labeled and identified all inputs and outputs of the controller modules. The labeling and lights should be clearly visible through the window on the operator control panel.

TROUBLE SHOOTING 6-3 CONTROLLER INPUTS AND OUTPUTS Lock drill on/off....................................................................................Controller light IN-0 (on when active) Latch Drill on/off..................................................................................Controller light IN-1 (on when active) Latch Home Sensor...............................................................................Controller light IN-2 (on when Latch drill is down) Latch return Sensor...............................................................................Controller light IN-3 (on when Latch drill is up) Lock Home Sensor ...............................................................................Controller light IN-4 (on when Lock drill is retracted) Lock Return Sensor ..............................................................................Controller light IN-5 (on when Lock drill is extended) Clamp Pedal..........................................................................................Controller light IN-6 (on when Clamp pedal is depressed) Cycle Pedal ...........................................................................................Controller light IN-7 (on when Cycle pedal is depressed) Faceplate Router On.............................................................................Controller light IN-8 (on when FPR Switch is On) 2-3/4” .....................................................................................................Controller light IN-9 (on when Backset switch is flipped to 2-3/4”) Door Width Up.....................................................................................Controller light IN-10 (on when Fast or Slow held in Up position) Door Width Down...............................................................................Controller light IN-11(on when Fast or Slow held in Down position) Door Width Slow .................................................................................Controller light IN-12 (on when Slow held in either position) Width Up Limit.....................................................................................Controller light IN-13 (on when Width Index is full Up) Width Down Limit...............................................................................Controller light IN-14 (on when Width Index is full Down) Width Sensor.........................................................................................Controller light IN-15 (on when Width Index is on a Size) FPR Shift Home Auto Sw....................................................................Controller light In-16 (on when FRP is retracted in X-Axis) FPR Plunge Home...............................................................................Controller light In-17 (on when FRP bit is retracted) Drills Start............................................................................................. Controller light In-18 (on when Drill is on) Drills Stop............................................................................................. Controller light In-19 (on when Drill is off) Sizer/Sander Start................................................................................ Controller light In-20 (on when Sizer/Sander is on) Sizer/Sander Stop................................................................................ Controller light In-21 (on when Sizer/Sander is off) Jamb Rack............................................................................................. Controller light In-22 (on when Jamb Rack switch is set to 3-1/2º) Overload Trip....................................................................................... Controller light In-23 (on when overloaded)

TROUBLE SHOOTING

Buzzer......... ...........................................................................................Controller light OUT-0 (on when Buzzer is sounding) Width Up...............................................................................................Controller light OUT-1 (on when Width Index is full Up) Width Down..........................................................................................Controller light OUT-2 (on when Width Index is full Down) Width Slow ..........................................................................................Controller light OUT-3 (on when Slow held in either position) Door Clamp...........................................................................................Controller light OUT-4 (on when door is clamped) Lock Drill ..............................................................................................Controller light OUT-5 (on when Lock Drill is drilling) Latch Drill ............................................................................................Controller light OUT-6 (on when Latch Drill is drilling) . FPR Shift (X-Axis).................................................................................Controller light OUT-7 (on when FPR is extended) FPR Shift (Y-Axis).................................................................................Controller light OUT-8 (on when FPR is cutting) FPR Motor ............................................................................................Controller light OUT-9 (on when FPR motor is running) FPR Plunge/ X-Axis Stop.....................................................................Controller light OUT-10 (on when FPR is plunged) Drill Motors...........................................................................................Controller light OUT-11 (on when Drill Motors are on) Sizer/Sander Motors.............................................................................Controller light OUT-12 (on when Sizer/Sander motor are on) Jamb Rack..............................................................................................Controller light OUT-14 (on when Jamb Rack is tilted) Backset....................................................................................................Controller light OUT-15 (on when Backset is at 2-3/4â&#x20AC;?)

TROUBLE SHOOTING PLC INPUTS

PLC OUTPUTS

0. LOCK DRILL ON

0. BUZZER

1. LATCH DRILL ON

1. WIDTH UP

2. LATCH DRILL HOME

2. WIDTH DOWN

3. LATCH DRILL RETURN

3. WIDTH SLOW

4. LOCK DRILL HOME

4. DOOR CLAMP

5. LOCK DRILL RETURN

5. LOCK DRILL

6. CLAMP PEDAL

6. LATCH DRILL

7. CYCLE PEDAL

7. FPR SHIFT (X-AXIS)

8. FPR ON

8. FRP SHIFT (Y-AXIS)

9. 2-3/4” BACKSET

9. FRP MOTOR

10. DOOR WIDTH UP

10. FPR RLUNGE/ X-AXIS STOP

11. DOOR WIDTH DOWN

11. DRILL MOTORS

12. DOOR WIDTH SLOW

12. SIZER/SANDER MOTORS

13. WIDTH UP LIMIT

13. N/A

14. WIDTH DOWN LIMIT

14. JAMB RACK

15. WIDTH SENSOR

15. BACKSET

16. FPR SHIFT HOME AUTO SW 17. FPR PLUNGE HOME 18. DRILLS START 19. DRILLS STOP 20. SIZER.SANDER START 21. SIZER/SANDER STOP 22. JAMB RACK 23. OVERLOAD TRIP

PLC Controller

FIGURE 6-2

FIGURE 6-1 58

TROUBLE SHOOTING

As the controller turns functions on and off, output lights on the controller turn on and off, the pneumatic control valves also have a indicator lights that come on when the valve is activated. If the controller is providing an output the corresponding control valve light should be on. To assist in trouble shooting the following figure will identify which pneumatic control valve power which function on the machine.

SPARE DOOR CLAMPS

LOCK DRILL

LATCH DRILL FPR SHIFT (X-AXIS)

FPR SHIFT (Y-AXIS)

FPR PLUNGE/ JAMB STOP RACK

BACKSET

FIGURE 6-3

6-4 WIDTH INDEX SPEED CONTROLLER: The speed controller is located on the far right of the secondary electrical panel. This unit controls the width index motor speeds (fast, slow, up and down). This unit is not serviceable. The speed controller is programmed at the factory with the right parameters for your machine. If you should have any problems with the speed controller unit, a code will be displayed. Look through the small window on the main electrical panel and record the code for future reference. This code will help in finding a possible problem

TROUBLE SHOOTING

with your machine. After the code is recorded you can reset the speed controller by turning off the main disconnect switch for 5 seconds. Below is a list of possible error codes for the speed controller: 1.

OC1 - OVER CURRENT SHUT DOWN (DURING ACCELERATION)

OC2 - OVER CURRENT SHUT DOWN (DURING CONSTANT SPEED)

OC3 - OVER CURRENT SHUTDOWN (DURING DECELERATION)

THM - CONTROLLER OVERHEATING OR MOTOR OVERLOAD

OLT - STALL PREVENTION

UV - INSUFFICIENT VOLTAGE WARNING (THIS ERROR IS SELF CORRECTING OPERATION WILL RETURN WHEN THE CORRECT VOLTAGE IS RESTORED)

IF A CODE IS DISPLAYED OTHER THAN THE ABOVE OR IF A CODE APPEARS REPEATEDLY, CALL NORFIELD SERVICE FOR ASSISTANCE.

TROUBLE SHOOTING

Problem

Beveled edge shows chatter marks

Beveled edge shows “step” at 11 inches from end of door

Possible Causes

Solutions

Cutterhead drive belt is loose

Tighten belt

Cutterhead blades are dull

Replace with sharp cutterhead blades

Bearings in cutterhead mandrel are worn out

Replace mandrel or bearings

Cutterhead is undersized

Replace blades

Cutterhead is too low

Raise cutterhead mandrel

Infeed bed in not parallel with outfeed bed

Contact factory for more information

Beveled edge is straight but door is tapered after sizing

Contact factory for more information

Beveled edge is smooth but arched

Contact factory for more information

Beveled edge shows “snipe” 2-3 inches from end of door

Cutterhead is oversized

Replace blades

Cutterhead is too high

Lower cutterhead mandrel

Infeed bed in not parallel with outfeed bed

Contact factory for more information

Obstruction in carriage assemblies

Inspect entire carriage assemblies for screws or other foreign material

Sawdust between gears and gear racks

Clean sawdust out

Main bar is stuck - will not go up Tension adjusting idlers on carriages need adjusting or down The upper or lower limit switch was triggered beyond normal

Adjust idler gears for smooth movement of main bar Press the e-stop and pull out the e-stop. Press the fast button momentarily in the opposite direction that you want the main bar to travel then push the button for the correct direction

TROUBLE SHOOTING

Problem

Possible Causes

Door is not clamped

Drill cycle will not start

Solutions

Move door to proper stop and clamp door

Sawdust build-up or other Depress E-Stop to turn off elecobstruction under latch drill tricity. Disconnect air. Remove preventing it from returning to sawdust or other obstruction “home” position. When the latch drill fails to return “home” drill cycle is locked out

Lock drill return sensor has moved

Reposition lock drill return sensor

Lock drill return sensor not functioning

Repair or replace

Motor overloaded

Push re-set button in electrical panel

Feed rate is set too fast

Adjust flow control valves on lock drill cylinder.

Latch drill cycle is turned “Off” on control panel

Turn switch to “On”

Lock drill drills through the door but will not return

Lock drill feeds part through the door and motor stops running

Lock drill completed its cycle but Home sensor on lock drill is not latch drill will not start turning on

Latch drill power valve not functioning

Latch drill starts to feed but hesi- Low air pressure tates or stops completely as it is drilling the door Dull drill bit

Check adjustment of sensor position

Repair or replace

90-100 PSI required Replace with sharp bit

TROUBLE SHOOTING

Problem

Latch drill feeds but will not return

Latch drill will not bore completely into lock bore for 5” backset

Latch drill not centered in door

Possible Causes

Solutions

Latch drill sensor not operating

Adjust sensor and check for sensor input light on controller

Air pressure too low

Air pressure must be maintained at 90 - 100 PSI

Slide shafts dirty

Clean slide shafts as described in preventive maintenance

Top return sensor on latch drill cylinder is set too low

Adjust sensor height

Drill too short

Replace drill bit. Bits that have been sharpened to where they are too short for 5” backset can still be used for shorter backsets

Slide shafts dirty

Clean slide shafts as described in preventive maintenance

Air pressure too low

Air pressure must be maintained at 90 - 100 PSI

Latch drill travel switch set in “Short” position on operator panel

Set switch to “long” position

Clamp back-up block is the wrong thickness

Use good quality 3/4” particle board for making back-up blocks

Missing or worn drill clamp pads Replace clamp pads Assembly has been jarred and is no longer aligned

See section 4-11 for alignment procedure

Door is not square

Contact door manufacturer

Door stops have moved

Loosen stop assembly and readjust door stops

Lock motor may have moved on its base

Realign lock drill to latch drill

Door stops have moved

Readjust door stops as required

Jamb stops have moved

Readjust jamb stops as required

Lock height is no longer correct

Header clearance has changed

TROUBLE SHOOTING

Problem Undercut does not match scale readings

Butt spacing has changed

Possible Causes Adjustment required

See adjustment procedures in Section 4-17

One or more index blocks have moved

Reset blocks and mark locations with a metal scribe. It is recommended you check your butt spacing regularly

Router bit undersized

Adjust the stop bolts on the side of the router to compensate for sharpening of router bits. CAUTION: If the router bit is much under size, the hinge radius will not fit into the mortise even when the stops are adjusted to give the correct dimension

Jamb is not up against the bottom of the router carriage

Raise the jamb rack

Router carriage is not level when mortising

See adjustments in Section 4-19

Edge of door and jamb rack are not parallel

Make sure the door edge is 21/2â&#x20AC;? above the main bar at both ends of the door

Butts will no longer fit into mortise

Mortise is deeper in the door than in the jamb

Solutions

Back-up block is wrong thickness Use good quality 3/4â&#x20AC;? particle board. Faceplate mortise is not centered

Lock drill motor is consistently tripping reset

Missing or worn drill clamp pads Replace clamp pads Template holder out of adjustment

See adjustment procedures in Section 4-15

Low line voltage at motor

Check voltage at motor

Motor drawing excess amperage

Repair or replace motor

Plunge speed is too fast

Slow plunge speed using flow control valves on Lock Drill cylinder

Dull drill bit

Replace bit or blades if you have an insert type bit

TROUBLE SHOOTING

Problem

Possible Causes

Solutions

Latch Drill only will not start

Reset tripped

Push reset button

Faceplate mortise not centered on latch bore

Alignment cone cylinder out of adjustment

Adjust cylinder position. See section 4-15

Defective contact block

Replace

Defective relay coil

Replace

Tripped or defective overload

Reset or replace

Low line voltage at motor

Check voltage at motor

Motor drawing excess amperage

Repair or replace motor

Plunge speed is too fast

Slow plunge speed using flow control valves on Lock Drill cylinder

Dull drill bit

Replace bit or blades if you have an insert type bit

Latch/Lock â&#x20AC;&#x153;stopâ&#x20AC;? push button not making contact

Replace contact block

3 phase motors will not start

Latch drill motor is consistently tripping reset

Latch and lock motors start but will not run or run intermittently Switch contacts of motor are not making contact

Repair or replace contacts

E-stop button is depressed

Check E-stop

Defective E-stop contact block

Replace contact block

Circuit breaker tripped

Check and reset breaker

3 phase motors tripping resets at random

Low voltage electrical service

Have supply voltage checked by utility company

None of the single phase motors will run

Circuit breaker tripped

Reset breaker

Powerfeed fuse blown

Replace fuse

Powerfeed switch not making contact

Repair or replace switch contact block

Powerfeed motor (s) burned out

Replace motor (s)

Powerfeed speed control defective

Repair or replace speed control

No electrical functions operating at controller

Powerfeed motor (s) will not run

TROUBLE SHOOTING

Push button switch is not making contact

Replace contact block

Motor is burned out

Repair or replace motor

Faceplate router switch is not making contact

Repair or replace

Faceplate router is defective

Repair or replace

Circuit breaker tripped

Reset or replace

Defective relay

Reset or replace

Mercury switch not making contact

Readjust or replace mercury switch

Width index motor will not run

Faceplate router motor will not run

Butt router automatic start will not run

Switch in router head is not mak- Replace switch in router head ing contact

WARRANTY

PARTS REPLACEMENT POLICY The following will explain Norfield Industries’ policy for handling warranty claims. Our “Limited Warranty” is stated below for your reference. Our warranty covers the replacement of defective parts: however, the labor to replace the parts on the machine is not included. Upon notification of a warranty claim, Norfield will either refer the customer to a regional repair facility or replacement parts will be shipped from the factory. Parts shipped from the factory will be invoiced to the customer’s account until the warranty claim is verified. To obtain verification, the defective parts must be returned to Norfield within thirty (30) days from the date of the claim for inspection. Before returning the defective parts, please contact Norfield to obtain a “Return Material Authorization Number”. All parts manufactured by Norfield and found to be defective will be given appropriate credit. All parts not manufactured by Norfield are covered by their respective manufacturer’s warranty and will be sent to the original manufacturer for credit. When, and if, credit is issued to Norfield, we will in turn issue credit to your account.

LIMITED WARRANTY Norfield warrants any and all such parts manufactured by them against defects in material or workmanship for a period of one year from the date of purchase. Norfield’s liability under this warranty shall be limited to replacing free of charge, F. O. B. Chico, California, any parts proved to be defective within the period of the warranty. Norfield will not be responsible for transportation charges or consequential damages. Norfield will not in any case or under any circumstances be liable or responsible for any injuries to persons or property suffered as a result of the use or operation of the machine, or losses or costs resulting from any period of non-operation for any reason. Parts which are claimed to be defective, but show tangible evidence of abuse or negligence will not be replaced on a no-charge basis. Norfield reserves the right, at its own discretion without notice and without making similar changes in machinery previously manufactured, to make changes in material, design, finish and/or specifications. Any changes, alterations or installation of additional equipment to this machine without first obtaining written consent from Norfield may void this warranty. Determination of the effect of any alteration on this warranty is left to the discretion of Norfield. Norfield makes no written or implied warranty with respect to electrical equipment, including motors or other purchased components used in the manufacture of the machine. All such parts are covered by their respective manufacturer’s warranty. We do endeavor, at all times, to purchase only those components manufactured by responsible manufacturers which we have found to be reputable in their handling of warranties. Norfield expressly disclaims any warranty, expressed or implied, other than those which are expressly made in this limited warranty.

CONTACT & ORDER INFORMATION

CONTACT & ORDER INFORMATION Norfield Industries is the name that represents Quality, Reliability, Support, innovation and True Customer Service. We are dedicated to providing world class customer care. Norfield has been providing quality care in the pre-hanging door industry for over 40 years and has earned a reputation for setting the standard for innovation, reliability, full technical support, machine parts and a full line of industrial woodworking tools and accessories. Our team of Customer Care Representatives is available to support you. If you need to contact the Norfield Service department, please have the following information available: • Serial Number of the machine. • Model of the Machine. • Date of purchase or date that the machine was installed. • Voltage of the machine. • A description of the problem and in what part of the machine the problem is occurring. For warranty issues and service questions contact the Norfield Service Department at (800) 824-6242. To order replacement components and consumables, such as drill and router bits, saw blades and other accessories, contact a Norfield Tools and Supply Customer Care Representative at (800) 824-6242.