Harbor Towns

By Rachel Pasche

Rock-strewn coasts and windswept beaches rightfully claim much of the fame for our corner of Lower Michigan’s vast shoreline. But amid the miles of Petoskey stones and golden sand, there blooms an idyllic series of civilizations, tiny harbor towns that offer shelter from Lake Michigan’s occasional storms and much-needed escape from the usual landlocked 9-to-5 grind. Whether you’re a landlubber on a daylong escape or a boater on a weekend tour, most any one of the region’s harbor town hamlets are worth setting your engine to idle and exploring. Here, we tour of four of our favorites.

HARBOR TOWNS Charlevoix

Sandwiched between Lake Charlevoix and Lake Michigan is the endearing town of Charlevoix. Full of rich history, unique architecture, and a distinctive drawbridge over the channel that splits the town in two, a visit to Charlevoix promises to kindle a sense of adventure. Spend your days soaking up the sun on the clear waters of Lake Charlevoix or at one of the nearby beaches, explore the local arts scene, or peruse some of the local storefronts for a one-of-a-kind souvenir.

STAY

The Bridge Street Inn is a charming bed and breakfast with a huge emphasis on hospitality. Visitors receive free breakfast, as well as cheese and wine in the afternoons and homemade cookies in the evening. Current rates from $149 to $219 per night. www.bridgestreetinn-chx.com

Perched on a hill overlooking Round Lake and the marina, the Edgewater Inn boasts stunning balcony views. Current rates from $299 to $499 per night depending on the time of year and what type of room you book. edgewater-charlevoix.com

Hotel Earl is Charlevoix’s newest boutique luxury hotel; historical roots and a chic, cosmopolitan atmosphere blend to create a unique Northern experience. $279–$359. hwww.hotelearl.com

MUSTS FOR YOUR MOUTH

Anyone who has tried it before can attest: The whitefish at The Villager Pub is a musteat in the area. It’s mouthwateringly flaky, perfectly crispy, and caught in the Great Lakes, so it’s delightfully fresh. The whitefish varies from $18–$23 depending on how many pieces you order. thevillagerpub.com

Grey Gables serves up elegant fare in a picturesque Victorian setting, making for a classic date night in Charlevoix. www. greygablesinn.com

Terry’s of Charlevoix describes it as “casual fine dining” and creates delicious menu items from locally sourced foods (seafood included). The setting is intimate and the service is fantastic. terrysofcharlevoix.com

DON’T LEAVE TOWN WITHOUT …

Checking out the antique furniture and European fine art — 19th and 20th Century are the specialties here — at Northseas Gallery. www.northseasgallery.com/

Watching the comings and goings of the Beaver Island Ferry, big yachts, small sailboats, and more from the expansive deck at the Weathervane Restaurant, which provides unparalleled views of the drawbridge and one of the best French onion soups in northern Michigan. www.staffordsweathervane.com/

Touring the fabled Mushroom Houses of Earl Young, a self-taught builder who created these iconic homes of limestone, fieldstone, and boulders he found throughout northern Michigan. Each house was designed to blend into the surrounding landscape, and each is entirely unique. $22. www. mushroomhousetours.com/

Sprawling out on the sand at Michigan Beach Park, a stunning stretch along Lake Michigan, complete with a fishing pier, volleyball nets, basketball courts, walking trails, and a snack bar.

Visiting Castle Farms, a minutes-fromdowntown escape that feels like taking a brief excursion to Europe. The immense grounds are home to Michigan’s largest outdoor railroad, and a visit to the stonewalled 1918 Cellars for a glass of wine tops off the entire experience. www.castlefarms.com

DOCK IT

The Charlevoix City Marina has 61 transient slips and features water, electricity, showers, restrooms, gasoline, marine repair services, ice, pump-out, a fishing pier, a dog run, grills, and picnic tables, cable TV hookup, laundry, Wi-Fi, and courtesy bicycles. Search “Charlevoix City Marina” at www.michigan.gov

HARBOR TOWNS northport

Sitting on the point of Lower Michigan’s pinky is Northport, a tiny town full of hidden gems to uncover. Miles of waterfront along Lake Michigan to the north, east, and west means you’re never far from a stunning view or peaceful beach. This artsy community is full of adorable boutiques and whimsical stores that are worth perusing if you have an afternoon. Surrounded by lush greenery and the grandeur of Lake Michigan, this Northern outpost is more than worth the drive (or sail) to get there.

STAY

Bring a tent if you’ve got one; the Leelanau State Park is one of the best campgrounds in the state, if only because you get the best of many worlds: verdant greenery, quiet beaches, an on-site lighthouse and kids playground, plus ultra-easy access to town. It’s super affordable at only $17 per night. No tent? Reserve one of the heated cabins for fall. Search “Leelanau State Park” at www. michigan.gov.

Treat yourself to an experience akin to time travel with a stay at the Wauban Cottage, a historical bed and breakfast located right downtown. Prices vary based on the week but are typically between $180 and $250 nightly. www.waybancottage.com

Nine rooms, an event space, and fitness center are all part of the modern The Northport Inn, centrally located for easy exploration of nearby shops and restaurants. Prices vary from room to room but fall within $180 and $280 per night. www. northportinn.com

MUSTS FOR YOUR MOUTH

One treat locals cannot recommend enough is a cinnamon twist from Barb’s Bakery — they have perfected this pastry, and it is delectable. Each twist is $2.

The New Bohemian serves up fresh breakfast options, deli sandwiches, and some great espresso drinks. www. newbohemiancafe.com

For a true Northport dining experience, grab a bite at the always casual, always yummy Garage Bar and Grill. Tip: Their dog-friendly patio is a great place for a beer with your best friend, furry or otherwise. northportgaragebar.com.

DON’T LEAVE TOWN WITHOUT …

Eating a pretzel the size of a cocktail table and washing it down with one of The Mitten Brewing Company’s beers inside their cozy pub or their perfect-people-watching deck perch. www.mittenbrewing.com/northport

Appreciating the works at downtown’s Wright Gallery, refreshingly full of contemporary abstract pieces created by both local and international artists. wrightartgallery.com

Slipping off to one of Northport’s many beaches for rock-hunting, sandcastlebuilding, picnicking or shoving off in your SUP. With several options available along and beyond the village shoreline, it’s easy to find one that suits your Lake Michigan mood. northportomenachamber.org/best-beaches

Climbing the laddered steps to look out from the top of The Grand Traverse Lighthouse like so many keepers in centuries past. The view of the Manitou Passage is worth the price of admission ($5), but the chance to explore the lower levels’ wellpreserved keeper’s quarters makes a visit to this iconic landmark unforgettable. www. grandtraverselighthouse.com

Trekking the forested trail to Leelanau State Park’s Observation Platform for the sublime view of North and South Manitou Islands. Note: You’ll need a Recreation Passport to enter the park: $7 daily, $34 for an annual pass.

DOCK IT The Northport Marina — aka G. Marsten Dame Marina — features 131 slips, access to a local beach with a playground and picnic area, restrooms and showers, gasoline, ice, pump-out services, water, electricity, laundry, and a dog run. Walking distance to downtown Northport (and its wellappointed grocery). Northern Express Weekly • july 05, 2021 • 17

HARBOR TOWNS petoskey

The beautiful coastal town of Petoskey is one of northern Michigan’s quintessential lakeside communities, with a historical downtown full of charming storefronts and excellent eateries, miles of forested trails to explore, and pristine beaches. Distinctive brick buildings date back to when this area was a lumbering town, and several of the building established in the 1800s stand tall today. Whether you spend your day wending through the gaslight district, splashing through Little Traverse Bay, or hiking amongst the pines, entertainment and amazement are never far in this area. Once a favorite haunt of young Ernest Hemingway, this town is bursting with tastes, treks, and tales to discover.

WHERE TO STAY

Perhaps the most notable of all lodging in the Petoskey area, Stafford’s Perry Hotel is an enchantingly historic setting for a weekend getaway. Built in 1899, it’s a jewel nestled in the heart of downtown. Current rates start at $329. www.theperryhotel.com

The KOA Holiday campground is full of RV spaces, areas for tents, and even tiny homes and cabins for rent. Full of amazing amenities including volleyball courts, snack bars, playgrounds, hot tubs, Wi-Fi, firepits, basketball courts, and stone polishing workshops, this pet- and family-friendly campground feels like a return to summer camp. Rates vary based on the type of setup you require. $51+, search “Petoskey” at koa.com.

While it has seen many upgrades since its original opening in 1911, stepping foot inside the Terrace Inn or on either of its shaded porches is like stepping back in time. The chandelier-lit 1911 Restaurant serves up some exquisite cuisine as well. Rates are $159+. www.theterraceinn.com

MUSTS FOR YOUR MOUTH

If you’re into breakfast pastries (aren’t we all?) you absolutely must stop by Tillie’s Tafel for one of their giant mouthwatering cinnamon rolls, you — and your sweet tooth — won’t be disappointed. $5 and worth every cent. tilliestafel.com

Tap 30 boasts an entire wall of draft beers from around Michigan and the U.S., plus some innovative cocktails and upscale pub food. tap30.com

Chandler’s, A Restaurant, is an upscale dining destination in the Gaslight District boasting a 4,000 bottle wine cellar and an intimate, nearly hidden outdoor nook so romantic it could make even the worst date feel divine. www.chandlersarestaurant.com

DON’T LEAVE TOWN WITHOUT …

Visiting Hemingway’s old haunt, the City Park Grill, to sip a cocktail and take in the history of the former billiards hall where the not-yet-famous writer spent many post-war days. www.cityparkgrill.com/

Curling up in one of McLean and Eakin Bookstore’s cozy chairs to take a test run through the first chapter of any number of their massive inventory of books. www. mcleanandeakin.com

Ensuring the next dish you bring to a party is unforgettable by purchasing just about anything from most every Northerner’s secret culinary weapon, American Spoon Foods. Its locally made gourmet jams and sauces are just a start; talk to their culinarybesotted staff for any number of recipe secrets. Can’t wait for the next party? Live in the now with a scoop of their homemade gelato. www.spoon.com

Supporting several women-owned small businesses with a single stop into Flora Bae Home, a new boutique that’s full of unique finds ranging from plants to home goods. www.florabaehome.com

Adventuring at Bear River Valley Recreation Area, which houses one of the best whitewater recreation areas in the state, plus miles of trails and boardwalks to stroll. Search “Bear Valley Recreation Area” at www.petoskeyarea.com

DOCK IT The Petoskey City Marina has 72 transient slips (currently operating from a waitlist application only), water, electricity, restrooms and showers, laundry units, grills, picnic tables, WI-FI, gasoline, ice, pumpout, free coffee, courtesy bicycles, and a dog run — alll within walking distance to downtown Petoskey. Search “Petoskey City Marina” at www.michigan.gov.