Walking

Walking world

A walk through time – from Pwllheli to Criccieth

Spectacular winter views? Check. Captivating castles? Check. Sandy beaches? Check.

This carefully planned trail will guide you along stunning beaches, winding rivers, and historical landmarks, arriving amidst the picturesque, pastelcoloured homes of Criccieth.

This tranquil journey begins in Pwllheli, a seaside market town. The 11-mile walk takes you along the soft sands of Glandon beach, through the vast views at Pen-y-chain before touring through the rich history of Llanystumdwy. The trail ends with the chance to explore the impressive Criccieth Castle–built by Llywelyn the Great, and later expanded by his grandson, Llywelyn ap Gruffudd.

For those looking for a shorter walk this winter, public transport runs along the entire route. Walkers can choose from a 3-mile stroll starting in Llanystumdwy, an 8-mile amble at Pen-y-chain, and a 9-mile adventure at Abererch.

Things you need to know

J Amenities and Parking: Car parking, toilets, as well as food and drink outlets, are available in Pwllheli, Llanystumdwy, and Criccieth

J Food and drink: Both are available in multiple stops along the route, with a community-run pub in Llanystumdwy, Tafarn y Plu

J Travel: There are frequent trains and buses between Pwllheli and Criccieth, with train stops at Pen-y-chain and Abererch, and a bus stop at Llanystumdwy

“There are some awesome views, and the museum in the picturesque village of Llanystumdwy provides a fascinating glimpse into the life of one of the world’s most influential political leaders of the twentieth century – Lloyd George,” said Rhys Roberts, Wales Coast Path Officer.

THE ROUTE

Your journey begins in the Llŷn Peninsula’s largest town,

Pwllheli, which has been a market town for over six centuries. Following the arrival of the railway system in the 1860s, this quaint town grew in popularity as tourists from across the country could visit the Victorian Promenade and sandy beaches.

To experience the best the town has to offer, plan for a Wednesday, and visit Pwllheli’s weekly market ⁠– a longstanding

tradition since 1335.

Once you’re finished exploring Pwllheli, the walk begins. The

path takes you along the crescent-shaped, mile-long sandy beach of Glandon. If a drink with a view is your idea of bliss, here you’ll find a cozy beach-bar overlooking the shore — the

perfect spot for a festive hot chocolate.

Passing through the grassy headland at Pen-y-chain, you can expect remarkable views. Even in the December weather, you’ll be able to see the wide sweep of Cardigan Bay, as well Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon), Harlech Castle, and your destination, Criccieth, against the backdrop of Moel y Gest. Once you’ve finished admiring these charming views, you’ll head inland

until you reach the hamlet of Llanystumdwy. Here you can find

the Lloyd George Museum and a popular community-run pub – Tafarn y Plu.

Venturing through farmland and the scenic Cambrian railway line, the pastel-coloured houses and hotels of Criccieth will soon come into view.

Criccieth Castle overlooks the town and has stood, keeping watchful eye over the town, since its initial construction by Llywelyn the Great and completion of the outer wall by Llywelyn ap Gruffudd in 1292. It eventually fell to Edward I, who would

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retain control of the Castle until 1404, when Owain Glyndŵr and

his troops tore down its walls and set it aflame.

Without a castle and garrison, Criccieth town was free of English rule. n

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A WORD OF CAUTION

Walking in the outdoors can be a strenuous activity and it is up to you to ensure that you are fit and healthy enough to undertake the route described and to approach the venture with caution and care. You should wear appropriate footwear and suitable clothing, take along food and drink plus carry the relevant map and a compass and be able to use it. The details given here are believed to be correct at the time of going to press. However, neither North Wales Magazine nor the author can accept responsibility for inaccuracies encountered.