NORTHWORD Magazine: Winter 2016-17

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Winter 2016-2017

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Wildlife thermal shelters

Wood

tree tracking

Worry

coastal concerns

Weather cold hunting

Wail

musical adventures

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COVER CONTEST!

in the cover photo for your chance to win a Hitcase Snap iPhone kit, including a wide-angle lens.

This issue’s contest is sponsored by Local Supply Co. in Smithers.

Email contest@northword.ca with your best guess. Correct entries will be entered into a draw & the winner announced Jan.15.

NORTHWORD MAGAZINE

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WINTER 2016-17

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Wellness Events

“Pay What You Can” Clinic - the Karma Clinic

what’s new

I have worked on over 100 First Nations Health Directors and we are booking in 6 different bands across the province for November and January

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Sundays with a Free talk @ 12-1pm part of the proceeds go towards our work in Isolated FN communities

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Picking up the perfect tree, Haida Gwaii. Photo by Talon Gillis. Talon’s feature images are often rooted in environmental portraiture. He combines the beauty and excitement of being outside with a relatable human element that allows the viewer to identify with his images. To see more of Talon’s photos, check out his work at talongillis.com.

Fea tures 10

story page 34

issue no. 66

18

True Coldness

The survival of Steves

By Jo Boxwell

Gimme Shelter

Making your property a winter haven for moose

By Norma Kerby

8 9

31

When one store closes...

Communities pull together in the face of supermarket losses

By Amanda Follett Hosgood

Equity Ice Falls

A short hike to an impressive display of winter’s majesty

By Jonathan Van Barneveld

Digby Disturbed

Tiny communities off B.C.’s north coast standing up to LNG threat

By Frances Riley

34

Oh, Christmas Tree!

The annual hunt for that elusive conifer

By Emily Bulmer

Baby, It’s Cold Outside

Staying warm with northern music

By Matt J. Simmons

Depa rtm en ts 7

28

contents

s t o r y p a g e 10

Win ter 2016-17

Editorial

A few words and a drawing

Letters

Your words

Top Culture

Explore the rural route to northern culture with UNBC’s Rob Budde

Story Comm en ts?

33 37 38

On the Fly

Fishing in northern BC with Brian Smith

The Barometer

A seasonal reading of the Northwest

by Char Toews

Resource Directory

Services and products listed by category

Tell us what you’re thinking. Comment on any story at www.northword.ca

WINTER 2016-17

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Northwest

Register now for

Winter 2017

COMM 303-3 Intro to International Business ENGL 260-3 A Survey of Children’s Literature

contributors Matt J. Simmons

PUBLISHER/EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

matt@northword.ca 250.847.4600

ENGL 331-3 Genres in Canadian Literature FNST 100-3 Aboriginal Peoples of Canada FNST 167-3 Tsimshian Culture, Level 1 FNST 200-3 Perspectives in First Nations Studies

Amanda Follett Hosgood EDITOR

amanda@northword.ca

FNST 203-3 Introduction to Traditional Ecological Knowledge HIST 303-3

British Columbia

HIST 456-3

Topics in Cultural Encounters

BIOL 411-3

Conservation Biology

BIOL 414-3

Fisheries Management

ENVS 414-3 Environmental and Professional Ethics ENSC 452-3 Reclamation and Remediation of Disturbed Environments

Sandra Smith

NATIONAL ADVERTISING REPRESENTATIVE

sandra@northword.ca

Morgan Hite has lived in Smithers for 20 years, makes maps, goes hiking, gets lost, writes articles, reads things and dreams about travel.

Jo Boxwell is a writer, video editor,

Emily Bulmer is a longtime Smithereen who enjoys subjecting herself to unscientific experiments in living. She occasionally records her findings and reports positive results most of the time.

Facundo Gastiazoro is a freelance designer who focuses on logos, posters, layout and illustrations. Originally from Buenos Aires, Argentina, Facundo is currently living in Smithers.

Brian Smith is a writer and photographer who has fly-fished BC’s waters for over 45 years. He recently published his second book, Seasons of a Fly Fisher, and lives with his wife Lois in Prince George.

Frances Riley calls Prince Rupert

history graduate and newcomer to northern British Columbia who enjoys exploring local stories.

NRES 730-3 Disturbance Ecology …AND MORE!

Ask about the BA, BA-FN, BScN, BSc(Int), BEd, BSW, MBA, programs NEW: Bachelor of Arts in First Nations Studies

Students new to UNBC must first apply for admission, which should be done well in advance of course registration.

UNBC Terrace Campus 4837 Keith Avenue, Terrace, BC V8G 1K7 250-615-5578 • 1-800-697-7388

UNBC Prince Rupert Campus

home. She loves the outdoors and owns an antique store.

Charlynn Toews has published

Hans Saefkow is an awardwinning editorial cartoonist, illustrator and set designer. If you see this man, do not approach him, feed him, or listen to his idle chatter. It is simply best not to encourage him.

Talon Gillis is an adventurer at

heart with a strong passion for photographing people. A self-taught photographer who grew up in Prince Rupert, he now lives in Terrace.

Matt J. Simmons is somewhat obsessed with music. Periodically taking the stage himself, he loves live performance in all its many forms. The next best thing is writing about it.

Norma Kerby is a Terrace-based writer and environmental consultant.

Her passions include amphibians, natural ecosystems, sustainable living and adaptations of wildlife and people to northern British Columbia.

She occasionally writes poetry about the North’s uncertain future.

Rob Budde teaches creative writing and critical theory at the University of Northern British Columbia. He has published seven books (poetry, novels, interviews, and prose poems). His most recent book is Finding Ft. George from Caitlin Press.

in daily and weekly newspapers, national magazines, and loves a good regional. She writes a regular column for Northword from her home in Terrace.

353-5th Street, Prince Rupert, BC V8J 3L6 250-624-2862 • 1-888-554-6554

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Join us! Northword is always on the hunt for writers and photographers who have a unique perspective and a northern story to tell. Send an email to editor@northword.ca for a copy of our current Submissions Guidelines.

editorial ha ns s a e fko w

On October 28, 2016, at age 31, someone told Darren that they weren’t in fact called ‘Lawn-Johns’ and he began to doubt everything he’d ever believed

by Mat t J. S i m mo ns edit or ial@nort h w ord. c a

Wearing long johns is like giving your legs a hug.

Long johns provide comfort and protection, the two hallmarks of what a good hug should feel like. They insulate your body from the winter weather like a hug insulates you from the challenges of life.

My legs love long john season.

Pulling on a pair first thing in the morning is always a pleasure. And unlike a hug, you get to wear your long johns all day. How lucky is that? If we could carry the feeling of a hug from the moment of sliding out from the under the covers until we returned at night, I think we’d all be a bit happier.

What makes these leg-huggers so appealing, so ubiquitous to our concealed fashion landscape? In a word: warmth. As winter settles on the North, the cold creeps in from the corners, slowly at first, then in a big blast, the sun weakened by its position, dropping its guard against its frosty foe, who seemed to be hanging out on the periphery, watching and waiting for the perfect moment.

Cold is often likened to negativity. The cold, desolate road. The icy grip of fear. A cold heart. I say that’s a disservice. Cold is invigorating. Nothing beats a mug of minus 20 to wake you up in the morning. And with the cold comes a savage beauty to the landscape. On the north coast, the winter spring salmon invisibly trace paths under the waves and the whales migrate past. The hills are decorated with dust and the peaks are drenched in dazzling white, serving as perfect backdrops for the black silhouettes of eagles and ravens circling in the skies.

In the Interior, the moose and caribou and coyotes and wolves all leave

their tracks in the snow—footprints as stories. The creeks and rivers freeze.

It’s quieter, softer. There are fewer birds around, but the ones still here have more space to sing. And everywhere, humans go about their daily lives. We wear our tuques and our long johns and wool and down, and we light fires.

We ski, we explore. We play, work, sleep.

Yes, long johns, you are loved. Because you allow us the freedom to revel in the Cold. But for how much longer?

The world’s climate is changing. Here in the North, we still have our winters, but even they seem to be losing their sharpness, like a climber slowly losing her grip on the rock. What that tumble will look like is open for discussion, but the fall is inevitable. This past spring was so warm that the (in) famous Alaskan dogsled race Iditarod had to ship in snow. Will my kids wear long johns when they’re my age? I don’t know.

Thermals are no fleeting fad. The Nova Scotian institution Stanfield’s has been producing more or less the same product, originally dubbed “unshrinkable underwear,” since the early 20th century. I believe our collective confrontation with climate change is similarly here for the long haul. But how do you protect cold? Intangibles are always tricky.

A small start might be simply to celebrate it. Because Cold, whether we grumble or grin, is part of our lives up here. And in the same way that long johns secretly keep us warm, it’s what’s beneath the surface that matters.

In the words of Albert Camus: “In the depth of winter, I finally learned that within me there lay an invincible summer.”

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Letters

The forest, the trees

ma tt j. s immo ns

H eal th y w i l d fores t ecos y s tem s are es s en ti al to w i l d s al m on popu l ati on s .

I have lived in the Bulkley and Babine watersheds for 30 years now. I owned and operated a successful tourism business in the Babine watershed for 28 years. With Smithers lawyer Richard Overstall’s help, I started the Babine River Foundation. Later, the Babine Watershed Monitoring Trust was born from Richard’s fine advice. I have been to countless land-use meetings, made numerous trips to Victoria to lobby government and raised millions of dollars to promote watershed stewardship. So I think I have an informed opinion about logging in the Babine watershed and imagine that what I have learned from that can be easily related to all watersheds under logging development.

I have met a lot of folks influential in the stewardship realm and I have met some amazing and professional people in government who really try to make a positive difference for wild values. But I have learned that logging interests have totally compromised any positive notion that we are

managing the forests for anything but fibre for the mills—end of story.

The widespread and fast-growing reach of logging development into pristine salmonbearing watersheds should be a massive wake up call to anyone concerned about wild salmon and all wild ecosystems that salmon support. By the time we stop one pipeline or reverse any real climate change effects, the salmon will be long gone as a result of logging and open-net-cage fish farming, not to mention the overharvest of non-enhanced salmon on the Skeena. A massive annual allowable cut directed towards prime watersheds like the Babine, Morice and Copper will be the eventual demise of the wild salmon way before any pipeline gets built. We have plenty of examples of the results in other watersheds that were once wild, and any pipeline spill is insignificant in comparison.

I feel as though we, in the North, have our heads in the sand when it comes to really understanding

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wild watersheds that contain wild salmon and all the other values that are supported by them.

The almost complete and utter destruction of wild forest ecosystem values is what I am talking about. The rate of cut, short-term, mid-term and long-term, will transform our public forests into fibre plantations. As a result, the other values represented by fish and wildlife, plus the trees and plants themselves, will all be lost in such a significant way that we could not possibly recover them.

So I say: wake up watershed residents and stop playing this ignorant rant while the fox is in the henhouse of a deluded reality. It is very disappointing to see us all buy into the wrong fight at the wrong time. Trash-mouthing pipelines is sexy right now—I get that—but let’s take aim at the real threats first or at the very least mount a full assault on all the greed, not just a small part of it.

— Pierce Clegg

fo r

Working

Community SuCCeSS.

L O C AT E D I N S M I T H E R S & S E R V I N G T H E R E G I O N • 2 5 0 . 8 4 7 . 4 3 2 5 • W W W. E D M I S O N M E H R . C A

column

Top Culture

c o urte s y o f ta lo nbo o ks

A Slick Reckoning of Land and Page

by Rob B udde

K e n B e l f o rd ’s f i r s t b o o k, F i re w e e d , w a s Ta l o n b o o ks ’ f i r s t p u b l i c a t i o n i n 1 9 6 7 . H i s m o s t re c e n t , Sl i c k R e c k o n i n g , i s h i s e i g h t h b o o k.

rbudde@sha w. c a

Ken Belford is different. Only poetry could express the kind of difference the Prince George resident embodies and frame the different lan(d) guage he writes. His book, Slick Reckoning, just released by Vancouver publisher Talonbooks, is his eighth. His first book, Fireweed, was Talon’s very first publication in 1967, so it is a historic BC occasion for multiple reasons.

Belford wrote Slick Reckoning through cancer.

It was one of the worse kinds of cancer and he wrote through the radiation and chemotherapy treatments that caused him to, according to the book, “hover near death.” What you have to know is Ken Belford is a very tough man. His time on Damdochax Lake north of Hazelton both informs his writing and primed his body for this challenge.

And he beat the disease; he is cancer free and getting stronger every week.

And, I will say it again, he wrote a book through cancer. It is hard to believe. The book is not about cancer but cancer was part of the process. And the end result is a book that is smart and quick-footed and a continuation of Belford’s work through the last four books: ecologue, lan(d)guage, Decomposi-

Ruth Murdoch MC, CCC, RCAT

certified counsellor registered art therapist

tions and Internodes. Like these other books, Slick Reckoning charts the ways in which the nonconformist makes his way in the world: I found my tools in an empty street, found the money by accident, watched anger, found company, cracked open the systemic episodes & deviated from the expected.

Belford “deviates” because of his background: part 1960s Vancouver, part Gitxsan, part unroaded spruce-balsam (“the mountains i’m fluent in”), part counter-colonial (“i haven’t been assimilated into the English field”). When he writes “i’m a traitor. i create ambiguities” he is referring to the ways his poems intervene and resist the narratives of racism (especially regarding First Nations) and misogyny (especially when he refers to “poetry wars” and “boy poetry gangs” that

perpetuate sexism in the region). He finds these oppressive systems residing in the rhetoric of irony—the mean-spirited “argument cranky men use to explain their hate.” And he is not like these men, he resides on the outside: “Here’s to the illegitimate and ambiguous once again.”

It is Belford’s gentle awareness of social justice that I have come to admire most. He sees clearly the oppression that swirls in the pages and rooms of white men and searches for another path. He does this without violence or conflict—it is a turn away, a turn of phrase to choose anew. And he cares about the vulnerable in the system: “I wanted to write poems that were a form of safe housing.” He listens for the “northern BC rhythms” and sways with them. And he would have you come with.

N

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True Coldness

by Jo Box wel l jb o x w e lle d it @ g m a il. c o m

Each step was a gamble, and the early onset of dusk was unforgiving. The day was done and there was no clear direction home.

Steve Sr. was a smoker and he quickly discovered the only health benefit of his habit. He found a lighter in his pocket, gathered some wood and started a fire. Despite the unrelenting chill and his growling hunger, the first night was bearable. The next day he fell in water up to his knees.

Steve Sr. was a brawler, the product of a cruel childhood, a war and the depression. He had his ways of getting by and those ways weren’t always pleasant. But people like that don’t need quite as much padding as the rest of us do. They just get on with it. Getting wet in low temperatures is a bit like being hit with a hammer—excruciating and almost impossible to think of anything else. Soaked and freezing, he managed to start another fire and he dried off his wet clothes. Then he set off again and walked for hours until his muscles ached and his empty stomach hurt. He found himself at the only familiar place he’d rather not see: the very same spot he’d started at.

The coldness soon bred desperation and confusion. He could be absolutely certain for a while, the way stubborn people can be, that he had corrected his path, but eventually he had to admit that he was nowhere closer to somewhere he knew. By the second night, his discomfort was extreme, dragging exhausted legs with feet frozen and blistered by severe frostbite. He became convinced that he could see a cross in the sky, and he was following it. God was with him, he told himself. The cold was turning him religious.

Other people were risking the elements by then, clocking miles on snowmobiles searching for him as the passing time ate away at his chances of survival. The area he could have wandered into was vast and they had little to go on. Nevertheless, they kept searching.

Dawn broke on the third day. Grit and chance meant he woke with it, puffing out shallow breaths of icy air, broken and delirious. Out of the lonely quiet, he thought he heard a sound. Like the cross in the sky, it was clear enough to him that he could cling onto it and pick himself up out of the snow. It was a distant engine rumbling overhead, and it was getting louder. He was by a lake, and he dragged himself onto the open ice as the plane crossed above him.

The pilot spotted his tiny figure stranded in the whiteness. That night, while Steve was recuperating in the hospital, the temperature dipped to -40 C. Had he still been out in the bush, the coldness would certainly have killed him.

Winter climates require a cautious respect to prevent us from going too far and to remind us to go prepared. If we forget our limits, the coldness will punish us for it. Winter roaming is better suited to the moose, while we confine our explorations to comfortable distances from our refuges of warmth. jo box well

Thirty-two degrees below zero. Boil the kettle. Make a cup—just water, forget the bag. Step outside onto the deck—careful, it’s icy. Throw the boiling water into the blue sky and watch it instantly burst into steam. It hangs there in the crisp air like powder, or dust. Then it dissipates. Exposed skin tightens as it freezes. Don’t stay out for too long.

It is being on the edge of everything; being in the North, experiencing true coldness, even fleetingly from the deck of a cozy home in a warming climate.

Extreme weather can be awe-inspiring or intolerable, depending on how well insulated from it we happen to be. We can develop quite a fondness for something when we don’t really feel it. We turn it into a game, with snowboards and skidoos and mugs of boiling water.

Most of us keep ourselves so well insulated during the winter months that we forget to be wary of the cold. It is something for skiers to look forward to and moaners to moan about. We only express concern during a prolonged power cut or when the car starts making funny noises on a road that no one travels along. Coldness isn’t something we want to meet alone.

My partner comes from a family of Steves: four or five generations of them at least. My father-in-law, Steve, likes to tell the story of the time his dad (also Steve) went out hunting one cool January day and didn’t return. Not a great time of year to spend a night under the stars. Steve Sr. was an experienced hunter and when the darkness fell around the house without him, it was obvious that something had gone very wrong.

Steve Sr. was a burly, square-jawed, difficult man. He was content out there in the bush, in the absence of petty everyday conflicts and with a singular goal in mind. His heavy winter hunting gear kept him warm enough while the sun was up and he was moving, comfortable enough that he could forget about the coldness. Head down, he honed in on a set of large hoof prints with telling strides, no doubt left by a moose. He became so focused on searching the ground for the moose’s long gait that he was no longer taking stock of his surroundings. He neglected to leave a breadcrumb trail of mental notes as he passed nature’s subtle landmarks: misshapen trees or rocks or felled logs. He had gone much farther into the forest than he had realized and the tumbling snowflakes quietly concealed his tracks behind him. The coldness turned everything white—the ground, the trees, the sky.

His prey remained elusive. He saw only tracks; no target to creep toward, gun loaded. For all his trouble, he never even got close enough to catch a glimpse of the moose. When he finally lifted his head and thought about turning around, he didn’t recognize his surroundings. His own tracks helped him for a while and he followed them backward until they disappeared under fresh snow. The clean ground provided no hint of which way he had travelled.

N WINTER 2016-17

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GIMME SHELTER

norm a kerby

am anda fo llet t ho sgood

Making your property a winter haven for moose

by Nor m a Ke rby nkerby@t e l u s. n e t

The tracks in the deep snow tell a grim story: the moose sought shelter under young hemlocks. With its back to the conifers, it faced out into the clearcut and didn’t see the lone wolf come through the small trees. It attacked from behind, chasing the moose into a jumble of buried logs and down into a draw. The rest of the pack descended from the banks above. A catastrophe of tracks disappears along the gulley and across the open area as far as we can see.

For my Northwest Community College ecology class, this set of tracks clearly illustrates the difficulties faced by moose in winter. Fleeing across the clearcut, the moose broke into the snow crust, stumbling over the hidden, fallen logs as it travelled through deep snow. Its pursuers, much lighter and smaller, ran along the top of the snow in a faster and more energy-efficient fashion. The fate of the luckless moose is apparent.

12 | WINTER 2016-17

The results of our class project, which surveyed moose habitat patterns in a proposed subdivision area, matched other research examining moose winter ecology. By comparing the moose-wolf interactions within this uninhabited young forest to moose behaviour in an established neighbouring rural subdivision, it becomes apparent that, surprisingly, property owners in rural areas can become important factors in winter moose survival.

The first pattern to emerge is that overwintering moose, especially cows and calves, are using rural developments as deterrents to wolf attacks. By moving close to housing, the moose appear less likely to have the local wolf pack attack them. Except for encounters with dogs and the occasional irate fruit-tree owner, they are able to forage and shelter close to buildings without negative effects to either themselves or the property owners. Often, the rural residents are unaware that they have moose living on their land.

^ no rma ke rby

Tr a p p e r Te r r y H o u g h t o n m a n a g e s h i s p ro p e r t y f o r m o o s e w i n t e r h a b i t a t .

There appear to be several factors key for successful winter moose habitat in rural residential areas. The most important is public safety. Property owners must be willing to share winter space with moose. There has to be sufficient land and the property must be properly configured to minimize human-moose-dog interactions.

According to interviews with residents, dog personalities were an important factor. Some dogs ignore moose while others become obsessed with harassing an animal that outsizes them 10 or more times. According to our study, moose primarily use properties where harassment and dog packs are not a factor.

I pay the taxes on this property, but it doesn’t just belong to me. I have foxes that pass through, the deer and birds are here, and in the winter I have moose.

Terry Houghton

The winter elements Other important factors are the provision of cover and shelter from deep snow and cold winds, plus the availability of food.

Moose are masters of disguise. With their dark colour and long legs, they easily blend into the forest. Even a patch of conifer trees 10 cm in diameter or greater provides concealment. Conifers intercept snow, lowering its depth.

Their thick needles break the wind, providing thermal shelter. Over 90 percent of moose tracks around conifer patches were on the south side of the block, where the conifers had blocked the cold north winds and the moose could warm themselves in the lowintensity winter sunlight.

According to Smithers wildlife consultant Laurence Turney, privately owned rural properties can be important moose habitat: “The ideal is a patch of trees about 20 metres by 20 metres, with trees old enough that the canopies touch each other for snow capture and the prevailing wind is blocked. On my property, I trim the lower branches on the downwind side so the moose can get under the trees. Even three to five conifers together can be enough to form a shelter. Talk to your neighbour. A cluster of trees along a property line can become valuable thermal shelter for moose and other wildlife.”

Another supporter of moose habitat on private land, Terry Houghton of Fort St. James, lives in a moose-overwintering zone along the south shore of Stuart Lake. Houghton, a former high school science teacher and active trapper, manages the shrubs on his property for the moose to eat.

“I have had as many as five moose stay here for the winter,” he says. “Moose

need to be able to access valley-bottom areas to avoid the deep snow higher up in the hills and mountains. On my property, I don’t want to clear all of the land. The wildlife has to have shelter. I like to see the moose. I pay the taxes on this property, but it doesn’t just belong to me. I have foxes that pass through, the deer and birds are here, and in the winter I have moose.”

According to Houghton, keeping shrubs and trees from over-maturing by pruning the lead branches allows each summer’s new growth to provide first-class moose forage.

The best species in the northern interior to give good winter nutrition for moose are red osier dogwood, willow, young poplars, elderberry and, unfortunately, his raspberry patch.

The human element As most of northern BC’s valley bottoms have been modified by human activities, property owners can become important factors in the survival of winter wildlife populations.

Normally, a large, healthy adult moose like the one in our study would have stood its ground, striking out its front feet with deadly kicks that could cave in the skull of any wolf that came too close. Why did it choose to run?

In ideal moose habitat, the conifer grove in which the moose hid itself would have had larger trees. Backed up against a big tree, its hindquarters would have been protected. Its powerful kicks forward would have kept its predators at bay. But in this area, there were no groves of largediameter timber. Everything was logged and only a few decades into regeneration. Attracted by the deciduous regrowth in the logging setting, the moose had food, but the lack of older trees left it vulnerable to harsh weather and exposure to predators attacking from behind.

From the blood on the snow, somewhere in the tangle of regrowth masking the steep-walled gulleys stretching ahead, the fleeing moose most likely became food for a web of predators and scavengers in a harsh winter environment. If only that moose had chosen instead to winter in a rural property a kilometre to the north. The property owner there, a fan of wildlife sightings, has left a grove of old hemlock and cedar trees as wildlife habitat, perfect for sheltering everything from a vole to a large ungulate trying to avoid predation.

N WINTER 2016-17

| 13

Digby En d of an era? T he setting sun co ul d symb olize big chang es f o r Do dg e C ov e, n e a r P rince R upert, if a pro po sed LN G t e rmin a l is built nearby.

by Fr a nc e s R i ley francese gri l e y@gm a i l . c om

In the wake of the Canadian government’s approval in September of Pacific NorthWest’s LNG export terminal on Lelu Island, nearby residents are watching the progress of another liquefied natural gas facility through federal and provincial regulatory processes with anxiety, weariness and apprehension.

“We’re coping and hoping,” says Sarah Chi Brown, a long-term resident of Digby Island, a low-lying landmass west of Prince Rupert that currently hosts the local airport and two small communities of Dodge Cove and Crippen Cove.

Digby’s southeast end is also the proposed site of Aurora LNG, one of a seeming multitude of LNG terminals slated for the area. This proposal has been cause for deep concern for Brown and her fellow Dodge Cove inhabitants ever since it was announced by Nexen Energy, a wholly owned subsidiary of CNOOC Ltd. (Chinese National Offshore Oil Corporation), in November 2014.

Aurora LNG’s proposal includes storage tanks, trains for moving gas, flare stacks, two sea berths for tankers, two power plants and two fencedin construction camps housing thousands of workers. An offloading facility 14 | WINTER 2016-17

would be constructed in nearby Casey Cove. It could consume up to 400 ha of Crown land on Digby Island, coming within 500 metres of many residents’ property lines. The way those who call Dodge Cove home see it, Aurora LNG will consume their way of life as well.

Small community Dodge Cove is one of BC’s smallest unincorporated communities with about 30 full-time residents and can only be reached by boat from nearby Prince Rupert. Affectionately called “the cove” or just “Dodge” by those who know it and love it, this tiny coastal hamlet with its single, barely-one-kilometrelong carless road has a history of fishing, lumber milling and boatbuilding that goes back more than 100 years.

“It’s the kind of place that attracts independent people living common-sense lives, doing things for themselves,” says Brown, whose husband runs a boatyard and six-year-old daughter is the cove’s youngest inhabitant.

“People here really value being off the beaten track,” adds Lou Allison, another long-time occupant.

Those who live here are artists, activists, boat-builders, carpenters, fishers

Disturbed

Tiny communities off BC’s northwest coast standing up to LNG threat

courtes y friends of digby is land

and more. Nowadays, however, Allison, Brown and many other residents are compelled to take up the stressful, unfamiliar job of parsing detailed scientific specifications and regulatory legalese, all while facing the implacable juggernaut of a foreign-owned corporation, its seemingly unlimited resources and a provincial government desperate to realize its promise of a viable LNG export industry.

“The first time the company came to speak to us, they mentioned that this project represents $40 billion,” Allison says. “I looked around the room; there were barely 40 people there.” In other words, the math is not in Dodge Cove’s favour.

Despite the pervasive sense that approvals for projects like Aurora are rubber stamped no matter the input, residents have not held back from making their voices heard. A secret-ballot vote was taken soon after the project was announced, with 96 percent voting against an LNG terminal on Digby Island. A website and Facebook group called Friends of Digby Island have been created to share information about the project in particular and LNG industry in general. The community also fought to have representation on the working group that created the terms of reference for its environ-

mental assessment application.

“It’s been a steep educational curve,” Allison says about the mounds of documents they’ve waded through. “It might be an exercise in futility but if it goes through I don’t want to feel I should have done more.”

Big concerns There is much that worries Dodge Covers about Aurora, including the safety of having an LNG facility so close to a residential area, but one issue Allison and others have repeatedly raised with the BC government is that Aurora’s proposed footprint overlaps the Dodge Cove Official Community Plan boundary. They are also worried about the project’s proximity to the small lake and watershed that provide drinking water.

Over the summer, the North Coast Regional District (formerly the SkeenaQueen Charlotte Regional District) sent a letter on behalf of Dodge Cove to the minister of Forests, Lands and Natural Resource Operations protesting the OCP not being respected by Nexen during the project’s exploratory phase.

The government’s response, says Des Nobels, vice chair and director on the NCRD board and longstanding Dodge Cove resident, was that “cutting down WINTER 2016-17

| 15

130°24'0"W

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3836m

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56 21 m

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3832m

Desalination Plant

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6012500

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CONCEPTUAL LAYOUT OF PROJECT COMPONENTS AT FULL BUILD-OUT

Data Sources: Government of British Columbia: DataBC, Terrain Resource Information Management, National Topographic System, BC Stats, BC Oil & Gas Commission.

Government of Canada: CanVec v12, National Hydrology Network, Atlas of Canada National Framework, Fisheries and Oceans Canada, Environment Canada, Natural Resources Canada. INPEX Gas British Columbia Ltd. Nexen Energy ULC. Disclaimer: Contains information licensed under the Open Government License – British Columbia, Canada. Although there is no reason to believe that there are any errors associated with the data used to generate this product or in the product itself, users of these data are advised that errors in the data may be present. Use of this map is strictly at user’s own risk. Nexen Energy ULC (Nexen) and INPEX Gas British Columbia Ltd. (IGBC) and each of their affiliates make no representation, warranty or guaranty about this map or its contents, including, without limitation, accuracy, completeness, or fitness for any purpose. Nexen and IGBC shall have no liability for any errors, omissions, or Fig. ID:123220054 inaccuracies in the information provided. Nexen and IGBC assumes no liability for any decisions made or actions taken or not taken in reliance upon the data furnished on this Projection: UTM Zone 9 Datum: NAD 83 Date: Oct 28, 2016 map. Usage, manipulation, or reproduction, in any form, of the data and information contained herein is prohibited without permission of Nexen and IGBC.

16 | WINTER 2016-17

412500

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trees and drilling core samples do not count as activity on the land.”

Residents are also concerned about air quality. Just a couple days after PNW LNG’s approval, the BC government quietly posted the Prince Rupert Airshed Study, an “independent assessment” commissioned by the province to help inform future industrial development.

Since its release late September, the study has garnered only a few articles parroting the government’s press statement that the area can safely accommodate increases in industrial expansion.

Despite these assurances, former Northern Health chief medical officer David Bowering is troubled by several aspects of the study. He suggests the report is flawed because the computer model used doesn’t take into account potential effects of climate change on local weather patterns, nor does it show how the pollutants— particulate matter, sulphur dioxide and nitrogen oxides— will interact with each other.

“It’s potentially 90 tonnes a day (of emissions),” he says, “but all they acknowledge are the short-term effects of irritants, sore throat, maybe some slight asthma.”

He points out that long-term

effects that might develop from these minor issues are hard to study and take a long time to prove: “I can promise you that the limits allowed will be much lower in 20 years.” Dodge Cove is consistently notable for its proximity to potential peak concentrations of the pollutants, as well as for elevated levels of the irritants measured in the study. It’s a dubious honour.

“I would not be reassured by anything in that study,” Bowering says, calling it a “political document” rather than transparent, peer-reviewed science.

Outta Dodge The single undeniable fact about Aurora LNG is that life in Dodge Cove will be affected in almost every way.

“The reasons that people choose to live here are all going to be destroyed,” Brown says: peace, quiet and closeness to nature. The cove is already faced with increasing amounts of light and sound pollution from the steadily escalating activity at the Fairview Container Terminal just across the harbour to the south; there is little doubt that Aurora would add its own sodium glow to the night sky. Low scrubby trees and relatively flat topography mean that, despite a 500-metrewide “buffer” between property lines and project perimeter, this massive industrial development would create a jarring visual scar on a currently untouched vista of wetlands, forest and ocean. It would physically cut off access to beaches, lakes and trails used by residents and tourists alike.

Although final approvals and investment decisions are years away, Aurora’s negative impact is already being felt. Allison compares Dodge’s situation to the Greek legend of the sword of Damocles, in which a king seats an overly enthusiastic commentator under a giant sword suspended by a single hair in order to illustrate the precariousness

Do d g e C o v e i s a q u i e t c o m m u n i t y o f a b o u t 3 0 res i d e n t s a n d a g re a t p l a c e t o r a i s e a f a m i l y — u n l e s s a prop o s e d L N G t e r m i n a l i s b u i l t n e a r b y, a c c o rd i n g t o l o n g - t i m e re s i d e n t Sa r a h C h i B ro w n .

c o urte s y frie nds o f dig by is la nd

^ of his situation. Community cohesion has been one of the first victims of this project, as people attempt to withdraw from an incredibly stressful situation they feel they have no control over, especially after PNW’s approval.

“People don’t come together socially as much as they used to, because talk inevitably turns to LNG and people are exhausted by it,” Nobels says.

“People are already talking about leaving, which doesn’t bode well for new people coming here.”

Indeed, Brown is steeling herself for what she thinks could be one of her family’s last Christmases in Dodge Cove: “I can’t imagine raising a kid beside what they’re proposing,” she says.

“How do you mitigate the destruction of my way of life?”

Nexen Energy did not reply to multiple interview requests for this article. The comment period on Aurora LNG’s environmental assessment certificate is expected to be announced late December.

N

frances riley

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bob s tevent on

Baby,It’sColdOutside Staying warm with live music

by Mat t J. S i m mo ns t hewr it er@m a t t j si m m on s. c om

There’s nothing quite like coming in from the cold to a venue full of expectant audience-goers. The sudden warmth, the buzz of voices, the smells, the sounds of activity.

When I was a kid, I was fortunate to be taken to the symphony fairly regularly. Live music is unlike anything else and I could never get enough of it.

It’s full of art, performance, unpredictability, skill, unspoken communication between instruments and their players, and—in many ways the most compelling aspect—a sense of it always being a one-time experience. What you hear, feel, smell, and see at one concert will never be repeated. Sure, the same songs will probably be played again, but being there in that moment is ephemeral. At the symphony, I always marvelled at the audience itself.

The orderly fashion in which an audience takes its seat in a concert-hall like Victoria’s Royal Theatre is almost a performance itself. And the quiet hum of hushed conversations, intimate but shared through the acoustics of a room designed for sound, is like a strange kind of improvisational, experimental music.

In other words, the situation, the venue, and the crowd itself all contribute to the overall experience of checking out live music. Punk, country, jazz, folk, electronic, soul, blues, you name it, they all have their particular situational vibe. Every venue is different, every performance unique. Whatever genre tickles your ear, live music is a gift.

When the winter weather sets in, our priorities change. From gardening, backyard barbeques, and excursions deep into rugged landscapes, we often turn to creative projects, cosy potlucks, and good books read in the flicker of firelight. The outdoor adventures don’t stop for many of us up here, of course—exploring the transformed terrain by skis, snowshoes, or boots is an ingrained part of northern life. But with winter’s long dark nights and brief chilly days, often our adventures are shorter and leave us with a lot of time on our hands. This season is a great time to seek out shows, concerts, and coffeehouse gatherings. As writer Haruki Murakami put it, “Music brings a warm glow to my vision, thawing mind and muscle from their endless wintering.”

WINTER 2016-17

| 19

Cultures all over the world are often defined, or characterized, by their art—including, or especially, music. Northern BC is no exception. The music scene is alive and well up here and all across this vast region are dedicated, passionate people playing music or supporting it in other ways. This then is a quick—and by no means comprehensive—look at the music scene in the North, with some helpful hints on how to track down performances this winter that will keep you warm on a cold night, and get you out into the everevolving cultural landscape of our shared home.

Va n c ou ve r Island band Carm anah play s a s et at th e CI CK Lou ng e Car Sessio ns in Sm ithers .

^

mart y cl emens

Prince George Prince George has a bustling music scene. As northern BC’s largest centre— and home to the region’s biggest venue—they book a number of national and international artists. Musicians along those lines include the Tragically Hip, Bryan Adams and Sir Elton John, among many others. Stadium shows can be a ton of fun, but for local music look to smaller venues supporting the scene.

Places like Nancy O’s, Westwood Pub, Twisted Cork, and Books & Company all regularly showcase live music. One local favourite is the juggernaut of a band known as Black Spruce Bog. These folks are loved all over northern BC for their high-energy performances and a sound that’s simultaneously accessible and rough around the edges. Featuring musicians Spencer Hammond, Danny Bell, Amy Blanding, Jeremy Pahl and Eric Wynleau, Black Spruce Bog plays shows all across our region, and when they tear up the stage in their hometown, you can be sure it’ll be a great time.

Speaking of Danny Bell, the musician is also a promoter. “I started booking at the legion because they were struggling to keep their doors open and downtown Prince George needed a new space for live music,” he says. His company, Mad Loon Entertainment, books both local bands and touring artists. “It’s gone really well for both the Prince George music scene and the legion,” he continues. “It has also helped to bring music from all across Canada to the community, which is great.”

Bell has a few shows booked for January already—the Saltwater Hank Band, Crones and Andrew Judah—and more in the wings.

The city is also home to a resident symphony—Prince George Symphony Orchestra. This organization has been around since 1970 and is the only professional orchestra in northern BC. Its upcoming winter concerts include Handel’s Messiah, Beethoven’s Pastoral, and a love-themed performance on the Valentine’s Day weekend.

Then there’s the winter festival, of course. Coldsnap is an annual event that sees local and regional acts take the stage alongside touring musicians for a week of performances at a variety of venues around the city. This year, the PG Legion is hosting a couple of days of regional bands, and the event is featuring a free workshop series all week. Check out coldsnapfestival.com for more info.

Last, but not least, CFUR—the University of Northern BC campus radio station—is an organization actively supporting local and touring musicians.

You can often hear live on-air performances by artists booked to play a show out at one of the city’s venues. Alumni include the Horsefly-based Juno Award-winning duo Pharis and Jason Romero, Williams Lake’s Blocktreat, and fearless locals, Crones. Find CFUR online to watch and listen to some of these past performances. ... continued on Page 22

20 | WINTER 2016-17

music in northern bc

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Peace River Up in the Peace region, Fort St. John features a number of regular open mic nights at pubs like Underdogs and On the Rocks, plus the occasional bigger performance at the cultural centre or the Lido, a converted theatre. In Dawson Creek, it’s a similar story, with several smaller venues and a couple of big ones, including the Encana Events Centre. These small, intimate coffeehouse-style shows are a great way to see and support new talent. Jumping up on a stage during an open mic night can be pretty daunting for a young performer, but it’s the best way to learn.

Being part of an audience at an open mic is both entertaining and fun and a great way to show your support.

Smithers Between Smithers’ concert association, folk music society and community radio—among many other promoters of music in the area—the little mountain town seems to always have some kind of live music going on. Out-of-towners regularly mingle with local performers, the latter sometimes just a crew of music fiends who throw a band together at the last minute.

There’s a lot of talent in the valley and there’s no one predominant style of music being played and performed. In a given month, you might be able to check out a bluegrass band impressing the audience with toe-tapping tunes, a few DJs spinning dance records to a sweaty crowd, some dirty indie rock, an evening of singer-songwriter folk, a classical piano concerto, an all-ages fiddle ensemble, and maybe even some experimental improvised art music. That diversity of sounds serves to continually propel the local music scene to new places.

Elucidating examples? Well, right about when this issue first hits the streets, Smithers’ legion will be the site of a crazy post-punk, experimental art-rock show featuring three bands out of Vancouver—Softess, Other Jesus and Shearing Pinx—bands on the forefront of a music scene that owes its origins to punk, but is firmly and defiantly its own thing. That show is co-hosted by Smithers Community Radio (CICK) and the Bulkley Valley Concert Association. Then, in January, the latter of those two non-profits will be showcasing Joëlle Rabu, a Canadian performer who has been compared to the likes of Edith Piaf. She’ll perform her critically acclaimed repertoire at the Della Herman theatre accompanied by her son, Nico Rhodes, on piano. Variety?

c he ls e a mille r

Jasper Perched on the edge of our region like the cool kid leaning against a brick wall at a show, Jasper’s got a few tricks up its sleeves as far as live tunes are concerned. Its local legion regularly showcases some great bands—local and touring alike—and both the De’d Dog Bar and the Whistle Stop Pub are favourite spots to catch some kind of live performance. If you find yourself in the park this winter, make sure you pop in and check out the scene.

^ B l ac kb e r r y Wo o d , a “ v a u d e v i l l i a n - j a zz- g y p s y - c i rc u s ” b a n d , p e r f o r m s l i v e a t N a n c y O’s i n Pr i n c e G e o rg e .

... continued on Page 24

22 | WINTER 2016-17

music in northern bc

February 3 Canada Games Plaza Coldsnap Kickoff FREE Outdoor Concert

Special Opening Ceremonies to Celebrate PG!

February 5 PG Playhouse Special $5 family show 2pm

February 3 - 11, 2017

The Kerplunks (BC)

the prince george winter music festival

Speed Control (Yukon) February 5 PG Playhouse Globally Inspired Roots & Harmonies

Anna&Elizabeth (USA)

February 9 Fore Bistro Celebrate Music of the North

Matt Patershuk (AB)

February 10 PG Playhouse Celtic String Extravaganza

Wendy MacIsaac & Troy MacGillivray

DJ Shub (ON)

(Cape Breton / Nova Scotia)

The Bills (BC)

Twin Peaks (BC)

February 4 Ramada Ballroom Dance to Hot World Beats

Buckman Coe (BC)

Samson’s Delilah (BC)

Alasdair Fraser & Natalie Haas (Scotland / California)

February 7 PG Playhouse Sensational Singers

Coco Love Alcorn ( ON) Quique Escamilla (ON)

March 6, 2017 • Prince George

Andrea Ramolo & Matt Epp ( ON)

Thanks to our many other funders, sponsors and our fabulous volunteers!

Special Guest:

Sean Robinson

Les Chauffeurs

Christine Tassan et Les Imposteures (QC)

à pieds (QC)

www.coldsnapfestival.com

Artists and venues subject to change.

February 11 Ramada Ballroom Ensemble, Nous Célébrons Nos Festival d’Hiver! Présenté en collaboration avec le Cercle des Canadiens Français de Prince George

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Be c ky Do c hs ta de r

... continued from Page 22

Oh yes, Smithers has that.

For local artists, one group to keep your eyes on is Mob Bounce, a politically conscious hip-hop duo, consisting of Craig Edes (aka The Northwest Kid) and Travis Hebert (aka Heebz the Earthchild). These guys are great performers and have nailed down a perfect blend between lyrics that make you think and beats that make you move.

Terrace “In Terrace I think the trend for the music scene was kinda set by King Crow and the Ladies from Hell,” says musician Marty Christiansen. “My band, Ranger Dan, has continued with the same folk-themed music with some punk and indie influences.” King Crow and the Ladies from Hell are a ninepiece band, self-described as an “untethered dance party where folk music meets gypsy punk and loud Irish drinking songs.” They often play the festival circuit in the summer and are taking a break right now—but keep an eye out for shows in the spring.

Ranger Dan has, as Christiansen alludes, picked up the torch and are playing shows fairly regularly, including venturing beyond Terrace itself. Part of that is due to a lack of venues, he explains. “We really have nowhere that great to play at,” he says. “Sherwood, Thornhill Pub and the Elephant’s Ear all have great vibes and are more than willing to accommodate musicians— but they are small rooms. The legion has been Ranger Dan’s main venue as it’s a big enough room and the members have been amazing, but again it is a venue that isn’t really primarily set up for music.” That hasn’t stopped Christiansen and others from playing live, of course. Musicians are nothing if not driven. “50 Shades of Plaid and Late Night on Air also add to the folk flavour,” he says. “The Rats, The Coastal Drifters, One Match Fire and The Brazen Harlots are keeping the indie and/or rock scene alive. I could see the trend turning more towards punk music in the future as I know of several musicians on the verge of creating something in that genre. All in all, we have plenty of talented musicians and an audience for all of them, we just need a good place for shows to happen!”

Despite the venue woes, Terrace’s support for the scene is strong, both

within and outside the core crew playing and promoting live shows. The venues Christiansen praises all regularly feature performances and while they might be smaller spaces, that elbow-to-elbow vibe can be a lot of fun. To find out what’s happening this winter, ask around or track down any of the bands or venues online.

Prince Rupert In Rupert, live venues range from restaurants and coffee shops to the small but excellent Tom Rooney Playhouse and the massive 700-seat Lester Centre. The latter will be celebrating its 30th anniversary in February with a gala evening, featuring lots of local talent. It’s a beautiful theatre and past shows there include the likes of blues legend Jim Byrne and indie rockers Harpoonist & The Axe Murderer.

Dan Hendrickson, co-owner of Cargo Kitchen + Bar, has just kicked off weekly live music events every Friday. It’s a laid-back affair but, as he explains, the intent behind it is to support and encourage the music scene. “We hope to provide a space for aspiring performers from all genres to try their hand,” he says. “We also hope that the intimate setting will attract a steady following that wants to enjoy live music without paying a cover charge.” If you’re a musician and that vibe appeals, find them online and give them a holler.

Down the road is the Wheelhouse brewery, where periodic shows pop up and are known for being a blast—local lubrication plus live music in a strange (and awesome) setting is definitely a recipe for success. Even further down the road is the legendary coffee shop Cowpuccino’s, not a spot known for its role in promoting live music, but every so often it does happen. And according to Northword writer Frances Riley, these are shows worth checking out. “I have been to some serious shakers there,” she says. “The Racket played ‘til 3 a.m. once and Barefoot Caravan had a guy in a cow suit playing the accordion and dancing on the tables. I was waiting for the floor to cave in, to be honest!” Other spots of note include Javadotcup, another coffee shop that puts on themed nights, sometimes with live music, and—a growing trend in the touring music culture—house concerts. Check out homeroutes.ca to find out more about those. ... continued on Page 26

24 | WINTER 2016-17

music in northern bc

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... continued from Page 24

politics will prove.” Playing and performing for these guys, then, is a release, a reaction, and—from the sounds of things—an inevitability.

“Haida Gwaii musicians like Tsinaay Har and Andy Spiller cleared a space for our generation of rock and rollers,” they continue. “Organizers like Janet Rig, Caroline Schooner and Carrie Laidlaw created the spaces we needed to incubate our musical mélange until its half-finished form rose to life again as the tireless Shelleyan monster we extol today.” Between these bands and others like them, a new scene is evolving. But this punk movement isn’t supplanting other styles of music as it grows—it’s complementing them.

Caroline Schooner has for a number of years spearheaded a monthly coffeehouse concert, currently held at Queen B’s Café in Charlotte. With an open mic slot and a variety of feature performers, the full gamut of genres is regularly represented.

For Weinberg, the DIY nature of music on Haida Gwaii was a good fit.

Originally from Ontario, he’s been playing music since he was a kid and took

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Black Spruce B o g at Wheelho u s e B rewing in Prince R uper t.

bo b s te ve nto n

ja me s mc g uire

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Haida Gwaii “The music scene on Haida Gwaii used to consist mainly of (very talented) old timer rock bands,” says Blair ‘Dub Jackson’ Weinberg. “Dub Jackson Band formed in late 2014 around the same time that our friends James and Graham started making original music, and our two bands coming together for the first Guy Fawkes Yourself show created a whole new music scene.”

That scene is firmly rooted in punk.

Jason Camp & The Posers are SG_aan Kwah.agang James McGuire (Sandwich Launcher) and Graham Jaahljuu Richard (Cultural Interpreter).

Both musicians are of Haida descent. “Our music is informed by a refined familiarity with the directionless rage that plagues all baffled inheritors of the post-colonial legacy,” they write of their music. “We were born into the anthropocene, on the cusp of human civilization’s ultimate hemorrhaging, scarcely able to comprehend our existence prior to atmospheric incineration.

Our dooms are at the whim of a confederacy of dunces, as the state of modern

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Th e D u b J ack s on B an d p l a y s a h e a v y m ach i n e s h op, H a i d a G w a i i .

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music in northern bc

Tickets can be purchased at the George Little House 250-638-8887

On Tour Many of northern BC’s musicians—including those mentioned—travel throughout the region, playing shows as they go. That connectivity between our communities through music is something that enriches the region as a whole. “I would say just get out there and if there’s live music being played near you then you should go see it,” says Weinberg. “Good venues will have good crowds, and good musicians will be playing there, so somewhere like Nancy O’s in PG is a place that will always be worth checking out to see who’s playing.”

These days, most venues and promoters primarily get the word out about events via social media and other online methods, so your best bet is to start there. Many communities have other means of communicating concert dates, too, of course. Posters are still alive and well as are community events boards and the like. Ask around, keep your ears open, and when you find some live music, get in there and have some fun.

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to punk after discovering Nirvana and similar bands, a style known for that DIY ethic. Organizing events when he moved to the North just made sense.

“We started doing our own shows, getting a liquor licence and playing different venues, such as the QC Legion, a heavy machine shop, a backyard, local bars and house parties,” he says. “Just this past weekend we had our biggest show yet at the QC Community Hall, with six local musical acts plus the Masset Razor Clams roller derby demonstration, and over 200 people in attendance. It was an all-ages show, featuring draught beer on tap from our friends at Wheelhouse Brewery in Prince Rupert, and went off without a hitch!” He explains that opening the show to all ages is important. “A huge part of what we want to do is inspire kids and teenagers to get into music and maybe start their own bands here.”

^

The beat goes on. Beatboxing session at the 2015 Coldsnap Festival.

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c la rke a c tio n pho to g ra phy

When one store closes...

communities pull together in the face of supermarket losses

by A ma nd a Fol let t -Ho s go o d amanda@ n ort h w ord. c a

Food.

It’s something most of us take for granted. While we may supplement our grocery lists with a modest garden or trips to the farmers’ market, we rely heavily on what we can pick up in the aisles of our local supermarket: tomatoes from Mexico, oranges from China, bananas from Ecuador.

Not until your community’s grocery store disappears do you realize the importance of a reliable food source and the vulnerability of living in a relatively remote area like northern BC. In June, SuperValu stores in Houston and Fraser Lake closed, leaving thousands of northern residents with nearly an hour’s drive to a supermarket. As winter sets in and highways become treacherous, the two locations remain empty, their shelves devoid of the goods that once sustained these communities.

The news isn’t all bad: In both towns, residents and local businesses have stepped up to make sure that no one goes hungry. Neighbours pick up supplies for neighbours, community services organizations go out of their way to help, and local businesses work to fill the void with one Fraser Lake businessman opening a new store in October. In many ways, the loss provides opportunity.

But while well-meaning, locally grown or locally sourced often can’t compete with the rock-bottom prices offered by chain stores, leaving the communities’ most vulnerable residents—those on fixed incomes or without transportation—with few options.

28 | WINTER 2016-17

Fraser Lake A community based on natural resources, Fraser Lake has seen its share of boom and bust. Endako mine’s closure two years ago affected more than 350 workers in this community of 1,100, which services a larger outlying area of 3,200.

As the population declines and real estate stagnates, those who remain are in a jam—selling their homes isn’t financially viable, but staying is increasingly difficult. And the issues seem to be compounding: without a grocery store, it’s become harder to attract locum doctors and other professionals.

“A lot of seniors are needing rides to get groceries in other communities,” says Sarrah Storey, a village councillor who runs Autumn Services Society for Senior Support with her mother-in-law, Elaine. They offer a food-share program—unused items can be brought in for redistribution—as well as a shuttle for grocery runs.

“We had a lot of moms running out of milk and eggs,” says Sarrah, who has given milk from her own fridge when the convenience store runs out. With two small children, she has seen her family’s costs increase, between additional fuel use and more frequent dining out.

As winter looms, she worries about the 45-minute drive to the nearest supermarket: “We have a lot of accidents yearly without people having to drive to Vanderhoof or Burns Lake or Prince George for groceries.”

May Reid has lived in Fraser Lake for 50 years and has no plans of leaving:

c la rke a c tio n pho to g ra phy

c la rke a c tio n pho to g ra phy

^

Friends May Reid, left, and Eileen Malchow have lived in Fraser L a ke f o r 5 0 a n d 4 9 y e a r s , re s p e c t i v e l y ; neither has any plans to leave t h e c o m m u n i t y, d e s p i t e t h e re c e n t challenges of i t s s u p e r m a r ke t closing.

“Where would I go?” says the great-grandmother of 10 who raised three children here. Never an out-of-town shopper, she has been using the local convenience store for groceries. “I don’t go out of town to shop because I depend on friends taking me.”

Her friend, Eileen Malchow, has also seen her share of changes during 49 years in the community. She wishes the current slump were simply part of the ups and downs of any resource community, but fears Fraser Lake may not recover this time.

“We’ve seen it every time there was a strike at the mine,” she says. “But this is a different type of slump.”

To the west The slump may also be having a domino effect: When SuperValu closed its Fraser Lake store, delivering farther west to Houston became less cost effective and likely played a role in the second closure a week later. This forestry-based community has also had its share of economic woes, with the closure of its West Fraser mill three years ago.

Houston’s population is 3,200, but it services a larger outlying area of about 4,000 residents. Most affected have been lower-income families, of which the town has seen an increase.

As real estate prices rise on the coast due to touted industrial development around Terrace and Kitimat, more competitive housing in Houston becomes attractive. Houston Community Services Association coordinator Angelique

Batley says the community has seen more than 300 families relocate there recently.

The biggest hurdle to not having a grocery store, she says, is the lack of public transportation to move those people between northern communities.

“As we get into winter it’s going to get harder, so we’re struggling to come up with solutions,” she says. The association provides clients with monthly shuttles to Smithers, almost an hour’s drive away in good weather. In bad weather, they wouldn’t risk the unsafe roads.

Houston mayor Shane Brienen says while driving to Smithers or Prince George might provide a temporary solution, the practice is taking its toll on remaining businesses, as shoppers buy more than just their groceries elsewhere.

“It’s really important for us to get a store in there, not just for (grocery) shopping, but for the business community as a whole,” he says.

In the meantime, Houston’s Salvation Army food bank manager Marla McIntyre says she expects the holiday season to help. While it means a spike in demand, it’s also the time for an influx of donations.

“At Christmas this community just steps it up so unbelievably,” she says.

Farther west At Bulkley Valley Wholesale in Smithers, store manager Mike Dandenault says the business, owned by the BC-based Jim Pattison Group, has been upping its service to Houston, with three trips a week instead of two to supply restaurants WINTER 2016-17

| 29

two sisters come check out the wall!

c la rke a c tio n pho to g ra phy

and stores.

Dandenault is keeping a wary eye on changes in his own community, as Loblaw Companies Limited, owner of SuperValu and Extra Foods, changes its Smithers location to a No Frills.

With its “won’t be beat” slogan, No Frills offers competitive pricing, but it does so at a cost to the community.

During the transition, Loblaw has downsized its Smithers staff and reduced wages for remaining employees. When asked to elaborate on the changes, Tammy Smitham, vice president of external communications, was vague, saying in an emailed statement that, “No Frills store owners are focused on keeping costs within the business at a minimum in order to deliver low prices to customers. While individual employee salary compensation discussions are confidential, No Frills is committed to treating employees fairly.”

Dandenault is more direct: “Our big thing is we support local,” he says, noting that the Wholesale employs roughly 70 mostly full-time staff (compared with about 25 let go from Houston’s SuperValu) and, depending on the season, carries products from roughly a dozen local suppliers.

Mark Fisher, a director with the Regional District of Bulkley-Nechako, says that food security occasionally comes up in discussions at the local government level, with the focus on supporting local agriculture. Earlier this year the regional district formed an agricultural committee to support local farming. When it comes to food costs, he adds that, pound for pound, consumers are getting more nutrition for their dollars when buying local.

Similarly, Sarrah Storey says Fraser Lake saw more gardens this year. Two new restaurants in the community attest to an increased market for dining out. Existing stores like the gas station, pharmacy and hardware store have expanded their food supplies to meet demand and, in late October, local entrepreneur Paul Dhaliwal opened a 4,200-square-foot grocery store, much to the community’s relief.

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E q u i t y I c e F a l l s a re a c c e s s e d a s h o r t d r i v e f ro m H o u s t o n a n d a re a f a v o u r i t e w i t h l o c a l s n o w s h o e r s .

EQUITY ICE FALLS:

A short hike to an impressive display of winter’s majesty

by Jon at ha n Va n B a r neveld jonat han.v an ba r n e ve l d@gm a i l . c om

Equity Ice Falls is easily Houston’s most popular snowshoe destination. Its short distance from town, its relative ease and an impressive ice spectacle make the place a must-see for the winter wanderer.

The falls are not much to look at in summer: just a trickle of water helps keep the cliff face wet.

However, this small stream doesn’t stop flowing in winter and slowly freezes, resulting in spectacular ice formations. The area around the falls is a high-elevation plateau featuring broken ground, cliff faces and dense forest. It feels like a subalpine winter wonderland and can have an enormous snowpack.

The falls are located 17 km from Houston’s famous fly rod. From the centre of town, head east on Highway 16 and turn right on Butler Avenue.

The road turns left to become Riverbank Drive.

Then turn right onto Omineca Way. After a short

distance, you will reach Equity Mine Road on your left. Head up this road for 14.75 km. The Equity Ice Falls trailhead is on your left, and the Dungate Falls trailhead is farther up the road on your right.

Both are signed. If you reach the Husky Forest Service Road, you’ve gone too far.

The trail to the icefalls is an easy one and great for the whole family. Only 717 metres long, it offers a gradual climb to near the base of the falls.

It takes you through a variety of forest types, but most impressive are the large balsams along the trail. The trail goes over some variable terrain and winds in and amongst the trees. For those that love geo-caching, take your GPS, as you may find some surprises along the way. The last 100 m is the steepest section.

Popping out of the trees, you get your first look at the icefalls. Standing at over 20 m tall and hanging from the cliff’s edge, the falls form out of

a horizontal crack in the rock. Large ice daggers hang down like fingers reaching for the ground.

The sound of trickling water echoes from behind the ice in utter defiance of the winter chill. It’s an impressive sight. The base of the falls offers a great place to stop and eat lunch. The more adventurous come here to ice climb and rappel off of the icy tower. Use caution around the falls and watch for falling ice, especially later in the season when the sun throws its heat on the south-facing cliffs.

A few hundred metres farther up the Equity Mine Road is Dungate Falls. It’s a short trail and makes for a nice spot to stop when out for a drive.

The waterfall is best viewed in spring when meltwaters are at their peak. The waterfall dwindles in size later in the year.

For more information about the trail, visit houstonhikers.ca.

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j onat han van bar neveld

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T he sho rt hik e into Equity Ice F alls is rewarded with a spectacular ice display— but watch f o r f alling shards as yo u appro ach the f alls!

32 | WINTER 2016-17

column

On the Fly

Bulkley River steelhead: Hoping for that one-in-a-thousand cast

bria n s mith

Fl y s el ecti on for s teel h ead fi s h i n g v ar i e s w i th w ater con di ti on s , bu t com bi n ati on s of bl ack -bl u e, pu r pl e-bl u e an d pi n k — w i t h a l i ttl e fl as h — are a s afe bet, s u ch as th i s S teel h ead B l u e B r u i s er ti ed by B r i an S m i th .

by B r i a n S m it h flyfishingnut47@gm a i l . c om

It has been said that steelhead are the “fish of a thousand casts.” While this is true some of the time, as when the fish cannot be found in the river, it’s also true that once you have located them they are not hard to entice to the fly if you can pass the lure within three feet of them.

I’ve found that the largest obstacle to being a successful steelheader is river conditions: high and dirty water from a river blowout is the last thing you wish for on your expensive once-a-year steelhead vacation. This hex has happened to me too often to dwell upon—but not this year!

Bulkley River conditions around Smithers were perfect the third week of September: the river clear, but not too clear; the weather good, but not too good; the forecast decent for the week, but not too decent. The fishing had been slow for most anglers: those hooking more than one fish per day were deemed successful. Lucky for me, my partner for the week was Dale Freschi, a fish magnet that, now retired, spends most weeks fishing and filming in places most fly-fishers can only dream about.

We stayed at the Fireweed Inn, an older-butclean and convenient little motel in downtown Smithers that caters to fly-fishers during the fall

season. Ideally, you want a place that is reasonably priced, a room where you feel comfortable hanging your wet waders and drying your boots after a long day on the river, restaurants a short walk away and your vehicle outside the room’s door.

We fished the runs below Smithers by jet boat, putting in at the Chicken Creek public launch, jetting downriver as far as the canyon where Driftwood Creek flows into the Bulkley and working our way back upriver through holding waters—water less than waist deep that flows at walking speed, usually situated on inside or outside river corners where the stream makes a sharp turn. Steelhead will rest here before continuing their spawning journeys, usually travelling beside a mate they have paired with—catch one and you can often hook both.

The fly tackle required to fish steelhead and all spawning salmonids must be strong but forgiving—this is not the place for inexpensive gear. I like to fish an eight-weight, 11-foot switch rod, which takes both single-handed and Spey casts admirably. The beauty of a Spey-type rod is its versatility when you are up against a bank

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or bushes and having to make roll casts, plus they are easier on old, aching back and shoulder muscles than the single-handed versions.

Reels need to be top quality with a disc-drag feature and a large-arbour spool that holds at least 200 yards of 30-pound test backing plus fly line. You will need a floating line matching your rod weight that will accept various sink-tips of different grains, which will put you near the bottom of the river where steelhead are usually lying. These are called Versi-Tip lines and can be purchased as a wallet set that will cover all sinking speeds you will need to match the swiftness and depth of the river to your fly selection.

Fly selection for steelhead fishing varies with the water conditions, but it’s usually a safe bet that combinations of black-blue, purple-blue and pink, all with some flash, will attract them. I always recommend checking with your local sporting goods stores for what is going on, what flies are working and where the fish are biting.

True to the saying, I hooked four steelheads that week, landing only one—a nice one of about 18 pounds.

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Oh, Christmas tree!

The annual hunt for that elusive conifer

by Emi ly B u l m e r adv ent ure m i l y@ya h oo. c a

“This year, we will find the perfect tree!” Speaking these words with conviction, gusto and confidence is usually how the annual pilgrimage to the backroads starts out.

The day is crisp and blue, sharp snow crystals twinkle in the sun, and everyone is high on the anticipation of the hunt. Coffee and hot chocolate are sealed into thermoses and packed into a packsack with the Christmas cookies and sandwiches.

Scarves tied around necks, sharp saw in hand, all members of the family jauntily forge through the knee-deep snow singing “O Christmas Tree.”

A more Norman Rockwell moment has never been painted—and maybe that’s why art is so healing. I’ve never seen a painting of the family that forgot the saw in the car after walking 45 minutes into the bush or the crying child with one lost mitten or the moment in the rapidly deep34 | WINTER 2016-17

ening dusk when the weird-looking hemlock is declared “almost as good as that last one back there” and hastily sawn down before everyone totally loses all composure.

We’ve all been there. After the tree is in the house, the kids are warming up in the bathtub and we’ve mopped all the puddles off the floor, we stand back with a slightly puzzled expression thinking, “Wow, it looked so much fuller in the forest—where did all the branches go from that one side?”

Finding a Christmas tree can be fun, but also frustrating if you are unprepared or your expectations are too high. Whether artificial or farmed, finding the perfect tree is more about finding inner peace with your tolerance for the process than finding fullness and symmetry.

Fake versus real When it comes to real versus artificial trees, people usually fall clearly in one camp. Team Real would expound on the virtues of the fresh scent and the feel of the needles, recount happy memories of childhood excursions and rely heavily on the value of tradition. Team Fake points to the practical conveniences of no dropped needles, no watering and that whole bonus afternoon you get when all you have to do is unzip the giant bag and straighten out a few branches.

Both sides will probably claim their choice to be the best for the environment. Natural trees sequester carbon and produce oxygen, which is important for fighting climate change and providing the air we breathe; artificial trees are reusable and do not require fertilizers or pesticides, which inevitably end up in our drinking

e mily bulme r

water. There are a myriad of variables to consider: material sourcing, pollution related to either manufacturing and shipping (fake), or growing and transporting (real) and, for all trees, the environmental impact of disposal.

Real v. Fake Christmas trees has become such a hotly debated issue that Ellipsos, a research firm based in Montreal, completed a “Comparative Life Cycle Assessment” to determine the answer. The study concludes that a farmed tree is lower impact than an artificial tree if the consumer drives five km or fewer to purchase it. If an artificial tree is kept for more than 20 years, it starts to become competitive. Trees growing naturally in the forest were not included in the study, but it is likely they would come out on top provided that you did not drive very far to cut one down. That said, the report states: The emitted CO2 over the entire lifecycle are 3.1 kg CO2 for the natural tree and 8 kg C02 per year for the artificial tree. These C02 emissions roughly correspond to driving an average car (150 g/km) 125 and 322 km respectively. Therefore carpooling or biking to work only one to three weeks per year would offset the carbon emissions from both types of Christmas trees.

Thereby demonstrating that there are bigger environmental problems to worry about than the contribution of Christmas trees to global pollution or climate change.

Farmed versus foraged If you decide to stick with Team Real, you have to choose if you want the adventure of cutting your own or if you want to support the local Christmas

tree supplier or figure skating club and pick one up out of the back of a refrigerated truck.

Farmed trees are specifically pruned to be full and lush and perfectly shaped, so you won’t have to worry about turning that bare patch to the wall.

Select a tree that looks healthy, as one with many brown needles will not last long. Since farmed trees are already stressed from being shipped and won’t last as long as freshly cut, purchase it a couple weeks before Christmas. Some growers allow customers to select and cut their own tree, offering the guarantee of a well-shaped tree with the fun of cutting it down yourself.

Heading out into the wilds (or the side of the road or BC Hydro right-of-way) is another option.

Before harvesting a tree on Crown land, make sure to obtain a Free Use Permit. This can be done online (in some areas) and free of charge, if you are at least 19 years old and a resident of British Columbia. Each forest district has specific permit conditions that can be found at www.for.gov. bc.ca/mof/xmastrees.htm. Do not cut a tree from private land, plantations, research areas, parks, watersheds, areas where trees have been deliberately spaced or any other areas reserved for a special use.

Beyond the legalities, being prepared will help make the experience enjoyable. Bring tools including a sharp saw, pruners or a small hatchet and rope. Dress for the weather and bring food and a hot drink in case finding the “perfect” tree takes longer than you think.

Logging trucks are active in many areas; bring a radio and drive with caution. When you have found the tree you like, cut it as close to the ground as possible and leave the stump flat rather than sharply angled to reduce fire hazards and risks to wildlife or other users.

Though a popular farmed tree choice, Douglas fir does not grow everywhere and you will probably need to be open to other species. Without breaking down the pros and cons of each species, it is helpful to know that balsam fir tends to produce pitch, so the area under the tree should be covered to protect flooring, and spruce trees have very sharp needles which may be a good choice for owners of curious cats.

Care and keeping When your newly purchased or foraged tree is home, cut an inch off the bottom. This will help it access water more easily and make it last longer. A newly set up tree will initially suck up a lot of water so check it frequently for the first couple days. Set it up away from heat sources or fans so it does not dry out.

When, finally, the music is on and the decorations are being hung, it feels like Christmas and it doesn’t matter if the tree is real, fake or perfect. It is the thought that counts, right?

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Ba rom eter

Go Out and Play

If I were smaller, it would be perfect to hide behind, like in a cave, or climb on top of, becoming a castle or snowcovered mountain range.

by C h a rly nn To ews edit o rial@nort h w ord. c a

This fall, K-6 students at a school down the street were treated to new playground equipment and seeing it made my heart sing. Instead of the typical schoolyard arrangement where the equipment told you what to do—here is a slide, you slide on it; here is a swing, you swing on it—the new installation invites free and perhaps even wild play.

Rocks and craggy boulders are placed randomly, trees are planted here and there, some in a row, some like a forest. There are several large mounds of dirt and tires are embedded in the grass, these horizontally, those vertically.

What to play, how to play?

Well, in my elementary school in Steinbach, Manitoba, there was a wooded area that I played in every recess with a handful of other girls. It was a kind of tag, hide-and-go-seek, prisoners’ base, improvised skit we referred to as “Witchy.” It changed every recess, but the gist of it was that a certain tree was designated as the Witchy’s tree, where innocents could be lured, Hansel-and-Gretel style, or tricked like Snow White, hypnotized by a touch, or in a daring World War II fashion imprisoned after an exciting escape plan to free comrades was foiled.

The cast of characters was fluid, as the girl who was Witchy changed from day to day and those captured could join the dark side or remain loyal allies. Sometimes there were two Witchy trees, as a splinter group set off on its own—sort of like Mennonite churches.

A UK paper, Free Play in Early Childhood, looks at aspects of unstructured play, saying, “Cross-cultural research suggests that children enact cultural-specific themes, reflecting activities and values that are important within specific communities.” Yup, there was a lot of culture in the wooded area, from pop

Prince Rupert Community Arts Council presents its 7th Annual

culture to fables and myths to old movies and current religious battles.

At the new playground installation here, I was immediately drawn to a large and sharp boulder. If I were smaller, it would be perfect to hide behind, like in a cave, or climb on top of, becoming a castle or snow-covered mountain range. I was pleased with its cragginess, with so many footholds and grab holds, perfect for scrambling up. Also, its element of danger: cuts and bruises from bumps and falls are more than likely. Even the trees are dangerous, pointy and scratchy, being small evergreens with low branches. The UK study argues that being allowed to take risks is an essential part of the ongoing process of becoming at home in the world: “Without this, children grow up lacking confidence in their own physical ability.”

And the mounds of dirt will get you dirty, guaranteed. I saw evidence of footholds dug into one and wondered what it had become: maybe a house with stairs, maybe the children digging in it had turned into puppies. With the copious lovely dense, wet snow we get in Terrace, those mounds will become epic snow forts.

One winter, when the kidling was about eight years old, we built a snow dragon that went all around the house. His specialty for solo art was snow goons, with arms sticking up menacingly and angry eyes.

Can I go out and play? I think I will go next door to borrow the neighbour’s toddler girl to build snow forts—no, wait! Snow thrones encrusted with jewels (rocks) and filigree (sticks), one for her and one for her dog. Call me in for supper, or else we can call it a day when the streetlights come on.

N

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