ISSUE NO. 46 AUTUMN 2022
Buzzing in the Bay
ISSUE NO. 46 AUTUMN 2022
We Fall for Figs
BAY OF PLENTY, NZ
CINNAMON ROLLS & A TWIST P LUS
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we talk to Mount Sourdough, Nana Dunn, & Andre at Elizabeth Café
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FRESH LOCAL FLAVOUR BAY OF PLENTY, NZ
THERE’S SOMETHING ELECTRIC IN THE AIR. THE ALL-ELECTRIC LEXUS UX 300 e. FROM RRP NZ $79,900
LEXUS ELECTRIFIED 07 577 0880 lexusoftauranga.co.nz Lexus of Tauranga, 158 Elizabeth Street
EDITOR Vicki Ravlich-Horan HEAD DESIGNER Sara Cameron, Minted Design Co. PROOF READER Nikki Crutchley (Crucial Corrections) CONTRIBUTORS Denise Irvine, Emma Galloway, Amber Bremner, Liz French, Lynda Hallinan, Kathy Paterson, David Wrigley, Harriet Boucher, Rachel Hart, Fiona Hugues, Kate Underwood COVER IMAGE Brydie Thompson PHOTOGRAPHERS Brydie Thompson, Ashlee DeCaires, Emma Galloway, Amber Bremner, Vicki Ravlich-Horan, Alex Spodyneiko, Kathy Paterson, Fiona Hugues ISSN 2324-4372 (Print) | ISSN 2324-4380 (Online) ADVERTISING ENQUIRIES Vicki Ravlich-Horan vicki@nourishmagazine.co.nz 0210651537
regular 6 7 47 50 60 62 64 65 70 74 75
Vic’s Picks News Harriet's How to Make the Dish Beauty Health Gardening Nutrition Back to Basics Events Marketplace
features
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Buzzing in the Bay Nana Dunn Discovering a New Rotorua Mount Sourdough Tauranga Farmers' Market From the Ocean to Interior Flavours of Plenty Hear Yeast, Hear Yeast Excelso What I Do with Miso
recipes 29 32 36 39 42 50 52 56 66 71
Autumn Jewels Blackberries Apple of my Eye Pumpkin Life's a Brunch Ultimate Cinnamon Buns Cinnamon Bun Knots Taste of Elizabeth Figs Bistro Cucumber and Zucchini Pickle
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ISSUE 46
Here’s to Autumn It’s autumn and our first edition of the year, traditionally an issue where I look forward with anticipation to the year ahead and all the possibilities. But man oh man it’s tough out there. I think we are all exhausted from two full years of anxiety and uncertainty. And no one is feeling it more than our hospitality sector! Owning a business is hard work. I liken it to having a baby, until you do it, you really have no idea what’s involved and how all encompassing it is. My heart goes out to those passionate hospitality businesses that have poured their hearts and souls into their businesses only for these to be put in jeopardy, by no fault of their own, but circumstances, from ramifications of a global pandemic to government policies. Some of the statistics are scary. The Hospitality Association has quoted a figure of 58% of their members believing they will be insolvent in just 3 months. Losing half of our eateries will dramatically affect all aspects of our lives. The hospitality industry is people heavy and thus a huge employer. They are an industry that supports local, from producers, coffee roasters, wine makers and brewers, as well as many other local services, think printers, signwriters, cleaners and more. If over half our local eateries disappear so will many of these businesses.
weekend. If there is a town hit hard by Covid, this is it. But as you’ll read on page 14, there is so much to discover in this steamy town and, believe me, there is no better time than right now! On page 26 you’ll also read about the Flavours of Plenty Festival in April and how this initiative’s goal is to highlight how good we have it. So again, make sure you support this, or like so many other events that have been casualties of Covid it too will disappear. Each autumn we celebrate our mums with Mother’s Day in May, and with this in mind Fiona Hugues put together a pretty but fuss free brunch (page 42). Also with mums and grandmums in mind and, for that matter, aunties and sisters, Nourish, in collaboration with Lexus of Tauranga, are putting on a fundraising breakfast for breast cancer. See details on page 18 for this not-to-be-missed morning. Autumn is literally the most fruitful season, so in this edition we enjoy blackberries (page 32), figs (page 66) and apples (page 36). We discover what to do with miso on page 72 and Harriet puts in the hard mahi to come up with the best cinnamon roll recipe (page 47), just in time for Easter baking.
A vibrant hospitality sector is crucial when we welcome back international visitors. So I implore you to use it before we lose it! Get out there and support your local cafés and restaurants and for that matter any local business. With this in mind, we headed to Rotorua for a long
Vicki Ravlich-Horan Editor
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EVERY SUBSCRIBER IN AUTUMN RECEIVES A GOOD BUZZ KOMBUCHA DISCOUNT CODE!
Vic's Picks BREAST CANCER BREAKFAST Join us at Lexus of Tauranga for a very special breakfast raising funds for Breast Cancer Foundation NZ. The Elizabeth Café and Larder team are creating a delicious breakfast, plus some great companies have come on board to create a wonderful goodie bag for everyone to take away. There will be a silent auction all in the hope of raising a bunch of cash for this cause that touches so many of us. Tuesday 31 May, 9.30am Tickets $65 via nourishmagazine.co.nz
GOOD NEIGHBOUR MY EVEREST CHALLENGE CAMBRIDGE PICKLERY MAHARANI Looking for a flavoursome pickle that’s a little different but isn’t spicy hot? Cambridge Picklery’s Maharani takes the humble aubergine and combines it with gorgeous Indian flavours, making a spicy but not hot chutney, perfect with a sharp cheddar or slathered on sandwiches. Follow The Cambridge Picklery on Facebook to find out more.
The Mount Everest Challenge is back for its eighth year in a row. Climb the Mount 38 times in 50 days and help raise money for Good Neighbour. Good Neighbour provides practical opportunities for people to support one another so that lives and neighbourhoods are transformed. There are five ways they do this: food rescue, projects, community gardens, kitchen, and whānau care. You can enter the challenge as an individual or in a team and by doing so you will have climbed the equivalent of Mount Everest right here in the beautiful Bay of Plenty. For more details go to www.givealittle.co.nz/event/ mount-everest-challenge-2022
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News FALLS RETREAT COFFEE CART Travelling through Paeroa? Make sure you stop in at Falls Retreat’s pop up trailer which has a new home outside Goldfields Print in Paeroa. Serving Rocket coffee using Ours Truly A3 organic milk plus house made sodas and healthy and organic takeaway food, they are open Tuesday–Saturday from 7.30am.
OSCAR & OTTO MEAL Handmade dinners from the restaurant kitchen to your home is the new offering from Oscar & Otto. After a good response to its take home dinners during lockdowns the Oscar & Otto team have polished and boxed up their “Otto at Home” offering. Meals are made in individual serves as well as serves of two and four and include dishes like Asian Beef Cheek, Lamb Shawarma, Spanish Meatballs as well as country pies and assorted desserts. So, whether you just can’t be bothered cooking, don’t want to go out, or you’re looking for a great gift for someone isolating, visit the team at Oscar & Otto on The Strand in Tauranga to find out more.
PICNICKA The retail section of Thirty Eight Elizabeth opened earlier this year. The second stage, due to be complete this autumn, includes Picnicka. The team behind Picnicka are the same behind much loved Clarence Bistro and Alpino in the Mount, so it’s sure to be one to look out for! Talking of Alpino, late last year the Mount space had a facelift, and they launched a late-night Speakeasy. From 10pm–1am on a Friday and Saturday night you can head to Alpino to enjoy a latenight cocktail.
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Buzzing in the Bay WORDS DENISE IRVINE | IMAGES BRYDIE THOMPSON
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NOURISH
The Good Buzz kombucha story began modestly in Kaikohe, in 1974. There was a bold new chapter in Wainuiomata in 2014, and it gathered pace a few years later in Tauranga. Today it is perfectly poised for major plot developments. Ryan Christensen, chief executive of Good Buzz Beverage Co, traces the history in the spacious new production premises at Tauriko, Tauranga, where the organic, handcrafted kombucha— with a distinctive fizz, tang and taste—is brewed. Ryan is proud of the new set-up: “We’ve gone from a factory of 400 square metres to 1200 square metres. We’ve tripled our footprint, expanded our staff and we’re constantly innovating.” Many things have changed at Good Buzz but Ryan says the core business stays the same, and they’re embracing the growing popularity of kombucha, or booch, the naturally fermented sparkling tea that is understood to have originated in ancient China. “We’re a true New Zealand company; our kombucha is born and brewed in New Zealand with really good ingredients. It is BioGrocertified organic and it is hand-crafted in the way Good Buzz has been doing it for decades. We make delicious drinks that support an active lifestyle and are bubbling with gut-loving bacteria.” Good Buzz was founded in Wainuiomata in 2014 by Alex and Amber Campbell, its genesis being the memorable drink with healthy properties that Alex’s grandmother Amy made for him as a child in Kaikohe. Amy called her humble booch “Manchurian Tea”, with a nod to its Chinese roots. The scoby (symbiotic colony of bacteria and yeast) she used for this is the mother scoby of all Good Buzz products today. In the earliest years in Wainuiomata, Good Buzz was an entirely hands-on affair by the Campbell family, who were involved in every task. Amber was the brewer and recipe developer, Alex ran the
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infrastructure and other family members lent a hand. It was largely sold to local cafes. In the following years, Wendy and Richard Gatward from Ōhope became co-owners, Alex and Amber Campbell moved to Tauranga, and Good Buzz relocated there too. In other changes, Bay of Plenty company Quayside Holdings is now an investor, and Lion NZ was an earlier investor. Ryan became chief executive in March last year, and the Campbells and Gatwards remain board members and owners. Ryan had met Alex and Amber Campbell at a trade show when he worked for Lion NZ; he tried Good Buzz at the show, he loved the product and the story, and the company’s commitment to local ingredients and suppliers. “Good Buzz had created something special, and it was being made in an authentic way. The overwhelming feedback on Good Buzz is its great taste. I loved how simple it was but it created a beautiful complexity. I could see the potential for growth.” Ryan brings wide experience to his role: he has worked for more than 10 years in the Fast-Moving Consumer Goods (FMCG) industry in various sales, marketing, operational and leadership roles. In 2019 he and two friends founded Izakai Bar & Eatery at Mt Maunganui, and he was co-founder of creative design agency Herd. He is still involved with Herd in his “spare time”. He started at Good Buzz in March last year with a team of five; since then he’s done a full product rebrand, introduced a range of Good Buzz kombucha cans and a new Premium series, moved factories (in early December), overseen a fresh look for the website, built a team of 10, and he’s seen online sales increase 30 per cent. He jokes, “I haven’t slept.” He steps through the new premises, purpose-built for Good Buzz: “It’s like making a big cup of tea,” he says, as he explains how the organic black tea is batch-brewed for two hours in 1000 litre stainless steel vats. The tea is from Sri Lanka and is paired with Bay of Plenty artisan spring water, organic cane sugar and organic
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New Zealand fruit extracts and freeze-dried fruits. The symbiotic culture, the scoby, resembling a giant, slippery lily pad, is added at this point and the batches are transferred to containers in a fermentation room that is rich with yeasty, fruity aromas. The batches sit (at 30°C) for two weeks, allowing generous time for the scobys to work their fermentation magic in the vats of lightly sweetened tea. They feed on the sugar, converting it into micro-nutrients and organic acids. The brews are tested regularly until they achieve Good Buzz’s prerequisite fizzy tang, then they’re filtered and bottled by Tauranga company Pure Bottling. Distribution to supermarkets, restaurants, cafes, online customers and other places is from the new Good Buzz headquarters. The Scobys are carefully stored and nurtured in the fermentation room, ready for another round. Good Buzz currently makes a core series of five tropical flavours and one natural, plus the new 250ml cans with flavours of Blueberry Peach, Pineapple Mango, and Passionfruit Guava. The Premium series showcases uniquely New Zealand tastes of Gisborne Lemon & Manuka Leaf, and Hawke’s Bay Peach & Kawakawa. The Premium booch was created by Good Buzz co-founder Amber Campbell. Premium flavours will be expanded by newly appointed head brewer Luke Miller, formerly the winemaker at Leveret Estate near Katikati. The development of the Premium and canned ranges was driven by Ryan, and he’s delighted with the results. He says Premium is a true expression of New Zealand ingredients, and the cans
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will be perfect for picnics, boat trips and similar. “They’re easy to transport and they chill in 30 minutes.” Ryan says Good Buzz is currently producing around 50,000 litres of kombucha a month. He is now looking to expand into other categories of beverages; his goal is to make Good Buzz available “in every place that you can buy a drink, so people get a healthy, delicious choice wherever they go”. Good Buzz Shop online or find a stockist at www.goodbuzz.nz Denise Irvine Denise Irvine is a born-and-bred Waikato journalist and foodwriter. Her work frequently showcases the region's talented chefs and food producers; she says we have the best of the best here.
PICKLING HISTORY WORDS KATE UNDERWOOD | IMAGES BRYDIE THOMPSON
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Nana Dunn (or Great Aunty Melba) is 95 years old. She lives in Matamata and still pickles the odd onion but laughs at the thought that her humble recipe has become a thriving artisan food venture. Three years ago, her granddaughter Laura was gifted the secret recipe which dates back to 1935. In an attempt to preserve their family history, she joined forces with cousin Heidi Sutcliffe and husband Scott (previous owner-operators of OBR Restaurant) and together they launched the Nana Dunn & Co pickled onion empire. It all began in April 2019, in the OBR kitchen in Arataki, with 10kg of onions and a few jars. Developing a cult following at the restaurant, as things grew, they were forced to move production to their registered home kitchen. In early 2021, Laura’s own business ventures were growing too, so it made sense for the hospo couple to take the onion reigns. Each Nana Dunn jar is comprised of entirely NZ grown onions, acquired by Dave (their onion agent), who gets them directly from a Pukekohe grower. New-season onions are at their best in January as their skins are so thin. Their hottest tip to avoid onion tears is to soak the onions first in warm water for 30 minutes. Together their three-man production team can now get through 20kg of onions per day. Someone peels, someone tops and tails and the other pickles. Peeled. Pickled. Bottled. Aged. It’s a simple, yet methodical process, with very few ingredients. But the result is a jar of perfectly circular onions. In fact, if the onions aren’t perfect, they don’t make the jar. Anything with a blemish gets redirected into their other products – so not a single onion goes to waste! The Nana Dunn range extends to red onion jam, tomato onion relish, and a curried onion chutney (which ex-chef Scott says
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makes an epic BBQ marinade when mixed with coconut cream or yoghurt) with a spectrum to cover all tastes – from sour pickle, to sweet red onion jam, spiced aromatic curry and the savoury tomato number. The curried chutney is a recipe that has lived on through Scott’s culinary career for almost 25 years. In the vein of no waste, they share a vinaigrette recipe using the leftover pickle brine to create a zingy, dressing with garlic and wholegrain mustard. Heidi is adamant social media has been a powerful way to build consistent sales and community, particularly through Covid. Thanks to Christmas gift hampers, the end of the year is always a busy time, particularly their 1L jars, which they package up in a cute hessian tote. They also offer a gluten free version, sans malt vinegar. As professional pickled onion purveyors, the Sutcliffe’s are no strangers to the demands of food production. Their post-restaurant retirement plan consisted of hunting out a commercial kitchen for their small onion venture. Just 18 hours after finishing up at OBR, instead of finding a new hobby, they picked up a lunch bar. The couple joke about how after a lifelong hospitality career, it feels like a graduation of sorts, allowing better hours and more time with their kids. The tiny, but mighty lunch bar kitchen is now Nana Dunn’s official home, where hundreds of kilograms of onions get their pickle on. Situated on Ashley Place in east Pāpāmoa, it sits alongside various gyms, trade businesses, a daycare and is adjacent to the Pāpāmoa Farmers’ Market site. “Our hope for Ashley Place Kitchen is that everyone can buy something to eat,” says Heidi. Determined to offer something different, they consider food trends, dietaries and allergies. Catering for tradies and school mums, to keto-friendly gym junkies and local salesmen – their offering includes fresh salads, great pies, sandwiches and daily specials, including beef burgers with their red onion jam. Heidi set’s herself up directly behind the coffee machine for the day, multi-tasking between peeling onions and serving customers Miller’s Coffee. In the spirit of supporting local, Ashley Place Kitchen stocks other talented food folk, including raw slices from Real Rad Food,
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alongside custard squares, donuts and a bi-weekly bread delivery from the Ginger Beard Man from Tauranga Farmers’ Market. Their pantry section allows you to get dinner sorted, with ingredients such as spinach fettucine and bolognaise sauce from BOP pasta legends Real Pasta. On the onion horizon, Scott and Heidi hope to secure a spot at the Tauranga Food Show, alongside plans to streamline procedures, update labels and build future stockists. They’d love to keep expanding their range and eventually acquire machinery. But for now they’re delighted to be feeding the people of Pāpāmoa, peeling onions, crying the odd tear and ensuring Nana Dunn’s precious recipe stays alive for years to come! To get your hands on the goods (available in 1L, 700g and 300g), you can swing by the lunch bar or purchase directly from their website www.nanadunnandco.co.nz.
Your local destination GALLERY TE PUNA
Kate Underwood Kate is a freelance food communications specialist, currently working for Eat New Zealand - Aotearoa’s leading food movement. Forever intrigued and enthused by our evolving food culture, she’s driven to connect and champion people and places, while sharing their unique stories in engaging ways. Find her at @relishthememory and @eat.newzealand
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15E Minden Road, Te Puna P. 07 552 5522 | Tues - Sun 11am - 3pm
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Next door to Gallery Te Puna P. 07 552 4443 | Tues - Sun 12 noon - 9.30pm
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DISCOVERING A NEW
ROTORUA WORDS VICKI RAVLICH-HORAN
Dubbed Rotovegas, Rotorua is often relegated as a tourist spot, thus a town many Kiwis visit once and then tick off their list. Sitting just over an hour’s drive from Hamilton, Tauranga and Taupō, this is a town that you can enjoy as a daytrip, a long weekend, a week or more. You will easily fill that time, as this is a town that the more time you spend here the more you will discover, be it the amazing mountain biking tracks, the stunning walks or serene lakes and all they offer, the mind-blowing nature from geysers and mud pools to native birds. The thrill seekers can throw themselves off mountains, jet ride or raft rivers, and those just looking to relax will find a long list of luxury spas. So if you think you have been there, done that, think again. Rotorua has much much more to offer! We spent a long weekend in town and came home with a list of places we want to go the next time we visit, and that will be soon.
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REDWOODS ALTITUDE, IMAGE GRAEME MURRAY
FOREST FUN First up it was the Redwoods’ new Altitude Experience. If you have already done the fabulous Redwood Treewalk and looking to up the excitement level, this is for you. You’ll head higher than the original Treewalk, 7 metres higher in fact, reaching 25 metres high. Harnessed in, you’ll be guided through the redwood canopy, negotiating suspension bridges and ziplines, while learning about the Redwoods Forest, local bird species and Māori legend. If swinging from tree to tree is your jam, make sure you check out the highly awarded Canopy Tours. HOT POOLS If the Polynesian Spas have been your go-to, try something new and head out to Waikite Valley. Here pure spring water cascades into the hot pools set in a wonderful natural setting.
WAIKITE VALLEY THERMAL HOT POOLS
If getting dirty before you soak away your cares is appealing, head to Hells Gate. Here you can wander around the geothermal park (with a guide or at your own pace) discovering wild natural phenomenon including the largest hot waterfall in the Southern hemisphere. Then it’s time to get dirty and lather yourself in the sulphur rich mud before then soaking in the soothing hot pool. (A word to the wise – bring your old togs and remove all jewellery, that sulphur really soaks in!) NATURE While the theme of this trip was to do something new, we couldn’t help but revisit an old favourite - Wingspan. The Wingspan Birds of Prey Trust is to secure New Zealand birds of prey future through research-based conservation and education.
ROTORUA DUCK TOURS
Visit Thursday to Sunday at 11.30am (bookings essential) to watch and be part of the thrilling Flight of the Falcon experience. UNIQUELY ROTORUA It’s hard to miss the Rotorua Duck Tours’ distinct amphibious WWII landing crafts as they drive through town and then into the PAGE 15 | WWW.NOURISHMAGAZINE.CO.NZ
lakes. We joined them on their entertaining two-hour Tarawera Lakes Tour.
Te Puia and even sampling some steamed pudding cooked in one of the hot pools.
Our tour guide was entertaining and informative as we waddled through town and then into the local lakes for a unique view. I highly recommend this fun way to see Rotorua.
On the night we visited the park’s famous Pōhutu, the Southern hemisphere’s largest active geyser, it decided not to come out and play. Perhaps just another reason for us to visit again, and it definitely did not take away from the experience of having the park to ourselves under the starlight.
BY NIGHT With more than enough to keep you busy during the day, you might think the nights are a good time to relax. This town has other ideas, with a number of unique night-time experiences offering you something new and to ensure you can pack as much as possible into your stay.
STAY
We’ve all zoomed down the hill on a luge, but have you tried it at night-time? The Redwoods walk is a must do. And once you have experienced the magnificence of these trees during the day, you must do it at night when they are lit up with David Trubridge lanterns. Recently a new nine-metre tall Lantern installation, Rakuraku Lantern was added to the line-up. This, the largest project Trubridge has worked on, immerses the public as they walk through the structure. At the forefront of Rotorua tourism, pre-Covid, Te Puia would see up to 8,000 visitors through their gates daily in peak season. That number is now often less than 100. This is heart-breaking! But never again will you have the opportunity to experience Te Puia without the crowds. While many Kiwis will have been to Te Puia at some stage, I implore you to go again, and the Geyser by Night experience is the perfect reason. We met our guide, Manaaki, just before eight pm to explore the park after dark, while hearing the history and stories of
We stayed at the fairly new Pullman Hotel. This, the first five-star hotel in the Bay of Plenty, opened just a few short months before New Zealand went into lockdown and all international visitors dried up. This impressive hotel is conveniently located in the heart of the city, just a block from Eat Street and a very short walk to the lakefront. With well-appointed rooms and location on its side, it is actually the friendly and amenable staff that will be the highlight of your stay. EAT This was hands down the best eating experience in Rotorua I have had. This town, which usually caters for hordes of tourists, has always been known for other things than good food. Don’t get me wrong, there have always been some gems, Scope Café is one good example. Part of what makes Scope Café so great is their consistently great offering, both food and service. This is recognised not just by their awards but their community of loyal customers, and this is what has made them stand out from other establishments after the tourist buck. If there is ever a silver lining from the last two years, this might
PRESENT
PINK RIBBON BREAKFAST 9.30am, Tuesday 31st May at Lexus of Tauranga $65 per person. Ticket includes a wonderful local breakfast and a goodie bag to take home.
Get yours at www.nourishmagazine.co.nz THANKS TO OUR SPONSORS
REDWOODS TREEWALK
be it for Rotorua. In the last six months the town has seen half a dozen new eateries open, and to survive, these all have to be good, as they need the locals to love them. Barrel and Co The Pullman Hotel’s restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, offering a modern bistro experience. Opening out onto Arawa Street, this is a space welcoming to both the public and in-house guests. Executive Chef Ryan Arboleda has a career that spans some of the top restaurants and hotels in New Zealand as well as Dubai and Thailand. His menu has a strong focus on the seasons and local ingredients. Mekong Buffalo Opening in December last year, Mekong Buffalo is owned by Betty Phan and her partner who also own Saigon ‘60s, a Vietnamese takeaway just a block away. Betty, who is originally from Vietnam, came to New Zealand to study biotechnology at the University of Auckland. She moved to Rotorua to work at Scion, and Saigon ’60s was her first venture into hospitality. With Mekong Buffalo, Betty says she “wanted to focus more on the customer experience and create something fun and creative” – hence Asian fusion cuisine. Fusion is a fine line between creative genius and confusion, but the dishes we tried were definitely not confused, even if they did take from several cuisines.
MEKONG BUFFALO
Betty says with a multicultural team, led by Japanese chef Takehiro Iwata, “we can go as crazy and be as creative as we want with all the Asian fusion ideas.” Eastwood If you’re heading to the Redwoods for a walk or ride, make sure you start or finish at Eastwood, hidden down the end of the road amongst the Scion Research Centre. Expect great food from the team that are Rotorua’s top caterers and behind eateries like Terrace Kitchen. Expect a cabinet full of tempting delights, an allday brunch menu and woodfired pizza from 11am daily as well as on Friday and Saturday nights.
TE PUIA
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Poco The newly opened Poco is located up some steep stairs at 1183 Arawa Street. We popped in for a quick pre-dinner drink and nibble but would have easily stayed longer. The drinks list requires more exploring, and the food was delicious. If we lived in Rotorua, I’d be making this my local! Much more! Sadly, there is only so much eating you can do in one weekend! Here is a list of places on our list to check out next time we visit. Ani’s Gin Bar & Tapas, 1161 Amohau Street – This spot came highly recommended on social when we asked for must visits. Fainting Goat, 1154 Tutanekai Street – This looks like a great spot to grab a beer and share a platter with a group of friends. El Mexicano Zapata, 1148 Tutanekai Street – This came highly recommended by the concierge at the hotel. Guidough’s, 53/2 Springfield Road & 139 Ranolf Street – We popped into Boaster Coffee on Haupapa Street for a caffeine fix and were tempted by the cinnamon buns on the counter which were amazing. It turns out these are baked by Guidough's who have two bakeries in town, so we will be heading there next visit for sure.
MEKONG BUFFALO
DRIVE As we are trying something new, what better car than the brand new all electric car (UX300e) from Lexus to get us there and around. This was my first time driving an electric car and I was super impressed. It naturally comes with all the bells and whistles and then some, but it was the smooth ride and instant power that really made it stand out. With a full charge under the hood we had a 360km range, more than enough to get us to and from Rotorua. Or if you planned on more tiki touring around like we did, it can be recharged with a DC fast charger in just 60 minutes or, as we did, overnight at the hotel. Test drive it for yourself at Lexus of Tauranga, 158 Elizabeth Street, Tauranga
BARREL & CO
A WONDERFUL ROTORUA GETAWAY FOR TWO WITH LEXUS Travel in style in the fully electric Lexus UX300e and experience a couple of amazing days in Rotorua including:
· Two nights’ accommodation in a Superior Room at Pullman Rotorua for two · entry for two adults to the Redwoods Treewalk · Voucher for two for The Hells Gate Experience · Voucher for two for Geyser By Night by Te Puia
Enter at www.nourishmagazine.co.nz
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T&CS APPLY.
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Learning Leavening A JOURNEY OF
AND
WORDS KATE UNDERWOOD | IMAGES BRYDIE THOMPSON
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For the dynamic mother and son duo behind Mount Sourdough Co, a retired teacher and trained engineer, baking bread was never part of the plan. With Margaret the hands-on baker and Sam the guiding force behind the business, over the last four years they have transformed their passion into a local network of sourdough fans. Margaret’s interest in sourdough began years ago, when her daughter developed a gluten intolerance. After exploring the extensive health benefits, she started making loaves that her daughter could easily digest. Upon retirement, in early 2018, Margaret became completely sourdough obsessed. Constantly researching and experimenting, she was baking two to three loaves a day. Sam was eating his share and she’d give the rest away to grateful neighbours and friends. One day when there were a few extra loaves, they put up a post on social media. Thinking they might sell one or two, within half an hour, they had a dozen responses. Seeing people’s reactions sparked Sam’s curiosity and he saw an opportunity to support his mum’s passion project. Delaying an overseas trip, Sam helped get the home kitchen registered and set up the online business. Thanks to the lengthy fermentation process, it takes just under two days or roughly 44 hours to make a loaf of Mount Sourdough Co – a vocation not to be underestimated.
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Sourdough is defined as bread that has been naturally leavened, without the use of commercial yeast. It rises thanks to the ‘starter’, a living organism which involves a mixture of fermented flour and water, laden with wild yeast and good bacteria. The presence of this ‘bug’ is what delivers its distinctly sour, tangy flavour and subtle chew. The first few loaves were a boule or ball, but with growth and feedback came an evolution in form. They added an oval batard and moved most of their range to the square tin loaf. Turns out their local eaters preferred the practicality for sandwiches and toast. Three months went by, Sam still hadn’t left and Margaret continued to bake at home. In May 2018, they were approached by Te Puna Deli, who became their first official stockist. As word spread, the sourdough crew grew, and enquiries continued from Central Deli, Cherrywood Four Square and Tay Street Café. Continuing to gain momentum, after six months Sam had officially flagged the overseas plan. After 18 months of production they made the jump from home kitchen to permanent bakery, acquiring new ovens and
employing their first staff member. One thing they’ve remained committed to, despite temptation to diversify, is providing a tight, top quality and reliable range. Margaret’s base recipe has been refined many times. It’s a unique blend of white, wholemeal, rye and malt flour plus salt, with no additives or preservatives. The specialty loaves build from this same recipe with the addition of seeds, fruit, spices and herbs. Baking is a huge commitment, the super early mornings, weekends, maintaining the starter all year round (even on holiday!) and the strenuous, physically demanding job of lifting, mixing and shaping dough. “You can learn the basics quickly – but it takes time and experience to make really good bread,” Sam explains. Particularly building the knowledge to manage variables like humidity, temperature, hydration and wheat characteristics. They learnt quickly that good bread needs good people. “It started with just us and now we’ve grown into a team of seven who are all on board with our mission,” shares Sam. Their diverse business model, providing for hospitality and retail, was a saving grace during Covid, as it allowed them to keep operating for supermarkets.
Sam and Margaret have prioritised building strong personal relationships along the way, often with other like-minded family businesses that value quality, including Oscar and Otto and George Café. Regan, the Cherrywood Four Square owner, was instrumental in helping get their bread on shelves across a number of supermarkets in the Bay. There are no regulations around the use of the term ‘sourdough’, so unfortunately some companies just add sourdough flavour and sell the knock-offs for cheap. Sam’s hope is that more people respect the process and understand that real bread is better for them. Margaret also loves talking about the advantages of long-fermentation and has made various school visits across the Bay to share the sourdough magic. Their ultimate goal is to get as many people interested in naturally leavened sourdough as possible, through more educational workshops and, one day, a hole-in-the-wall bread window so you can buy direct. Until then, the best way to experience a slice of the goods is to find your nearest stockist at www.mountsourdough.com. Kate Underwood @relishthememory
ITALIAN INSPIRED CUISINE SEASONAL FOCUSED MENU FAMILY FRIENDLY SPACE AWARD WINNING TEAM
1 9 W H A R F S T R E E T, TA U R A N G A W W W. S U G O S U G O . C O . N Z
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IMAGES TAKEN PRE-COVID SO NO MASKS WERE NECESSARY.
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The Real Thing WORDS LIZ FRENCH | IMAGES ALEX SPODYNEIKO
Tauranga Farmers’ Market customers are lucky that their market is a genuine farmers’ market, and not only one of the longest running in the country but considered one of the best. Beware of imitations! Farmers’ markets are not all created equal. Just naming a market a farmers’ market does not make it so. The description as farmers’ market implies that growers sell their own products direct to the public. Often this is not strictly the case, with produce re-sold from some stalls. To be a true farmers’ market, management and stall holders have to meet criteria set by Farmers’ Markets New Zealand (FMNZ), an association set up to support farmers’ markets throughout the country. The Tauranga Farmers’ Market has belonged to FMNZ since 2011. By that time the market was eight years old. It was established in January 2003 and when the first market was held at the Compass Village (now known as the Historic Village) the stallholders did have varying styles of product. The founding of the Tauranga Farmers’ and Producers’ Market Incorporated in 2005 came with a clear intent expressed in their mission statement: To provide a vibrant environment for local growers and food producers to sell directly to the public. The Tauranga Farmers’ Market lists its values as:
committee make property visits to assess the authenticity of the product and its local focus. As Tauranga Farmers’ Market is committed to its values, management does have to turn down requests for stalls. “Especially if they are craft based,” Market Manger Trixie Allen explains. “As FMNZ Farmers’ Market members we adhere to being primarily a food market with a small representation of flowers and plants.” REGIONAL RADIUS As Tauranga Farmers’ Market’s constitution states, stall holders should be within 200 kilometres of the market site. However, Trixie points out there is dispensation for products that can’t be grown within the regional radius. “For example, cherries and apricots when in season.” PIONEERS BOP shoppers are lucky to have one of the longest running farmers’ markets in the country. Whangarei’s was the first, then the Otago Farmers’ Market; followed a few months later, and 19 years ago, by Tauranga. Plenty of reasons to feel confident your Tauranga Farmers’ Market not only delivers you a fun and fruitful Saturday morning but also ensures you are getting fresh regional produce grown locally. It’s the real thing!
• Fresh quality product that is self-grown or home produced. • Provide shoppers with a positive experience they want to tell friends about. • Members who work collectively for the benefit of their market. AUTHENTIC STALL HOLDERS All Tauranga stall holders are authentic, which means they are primary producers who sell fresh local produce grown themselves. Or, they sell value added products made from their own ingredients or those sourced within the region. Members of the market
Liz French Liz French calls her writing deeply superficial as she enjoys creating stories about interesting people, places and property, adventures and animals. Her ample spare time is spent cycling, skiing, walking, reading and haunting cafes. She’s written 35 chapters of her memoir titled “What was I thinking?”
Your true local farmers market. E V E R Y S AT U R D AY 7 .45 A M T O 12 N O O N
Tauranga Primary School, Fifth Ave, Tauranga www.tgafarmersmarket.org.nz
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FROM THE
OCEAN to the Interior
WORDS LIZ FRENCH | IMAGES BRYDIE THOMPSON
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Whirling ocean in shades of blue, stormy seas, sandy dunes, craggy coastal cliffs, and a myriad of marine life … this is the way our coastal environment is expressed in Feltex Carpet’s Oceania Collection. The Oceania Collection puts paid to any perception that commercial carpet can be boring. The design-led range is strongly influenced by the biophilic concept that humans have an innate tendency to seek connection with nature and that including natural landscape features in our environment increases our health and productivity. The very sight of this bold collection just has to lift the spirits, let alone living or working with it underfoot. The Feltex design team have captured the moods of Oceania, inspired by our unique geographical location surrounded by oceans and seas. Gerrand Floorings are already ahead of the curve, having installed their own custom-designed carpet from the Oceania Collection in the offices of their new showroom. Gerrand Floorings’ Leanne Rich says they chose Oceania’s woven range for their offices because “the team appreciate the old-world Woolrich Axminster quality and felt immediately connected to the design, then having the scope to personalise with our own colour choices made it an exciting and unique product of our own.” The Oceania Collections cover commercial applications from high end showrooms and retail, hotel and hospitality interiors to your standard office environment. It proves that what is underfoot can be inspirational rather than just industrial. Oceanic Woven is the top tier of this collection, being a Woolrich Axminster finish. It is designed for luxe interiors where a dense, tactile and durable carpet should feel good and can’t help being noticed. It is manufactured the way carpet was made hundreds of years ago in a quality woven style but also includes the advantage of today’s modern technology. Not only can customers make their finished product their own with colour choices but also
the percentage of shades and depths for an individual flooring statement. There are two other options in the Oceania Range complementing the natural woven Axminster product; these are a jet printed manmade fibre broadloom carpet and carpet tiles and planks. While this innovative hard-wearing carpet range was designed by Feltex to suit commercial applications, there are obvious crossovers into residential use. Often the source for games or media rooms, or throughout in baches and lake houses, it’s an option that dares you to choose a carpet that demonstrates fun and flair while coping with the rough and tumble of family life. After a long period where carpet trends have been mainly neutral and unobtrusive, Oceania steps outside the mould and invites individuality and creativity. Leanne Rich says she is enjoying introducing this range to her customers and that the response has been excellent, from designers and direct clients alike. Gerrand Floorings 123 Hewletts Road, Mount Maunganui www.gerrandfloorings.co.nz
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Special celebrations, getaways, cooking & gardening workshops, dining experiences
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Fl avours of Plenty WORDS VICKI RAVLICH-HORAN
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Last June the start of something special happened. A large group of artisans, growers, makers, chefs and hospitality owners from around the Bay of Plenty came together at Toi Ohomai. Sure, there were a few stars, Ben Bayly, known for his promotion of New Zealand food, and Kelli Brett from Cuisine spoke. And, of course, there was great food to be eaten. But at the heart of that day was the creating of a community, bringing together those who work tirelessly and passionately every day to grow and produce amazing food in this region. The outward goal of the day was to excite these makers of food about the planned festival in April – Flavours of Plenty Festival. But it was the start of so much more, from telling the region’s food story to encouraging collaborations and building pride. Bringing together the vision was the team at Tourism Bay of Plenty with the help of Stacey Jones. Stacey, an import to the region, is passionate about the Bay of Plenty, especially the food on offer. She also knows a thing or two about creating
amazing events. If you have been to a Kitchen Takeover dinner you will know what I am talking about! “We want the Bay to be known for more than avocados and kiwifruit,” says Stacey on the real reason behind the festival. A quick look at the 19 events in the inaugural festival and the variety on offer is clear, from sourdough and cheese to beer and truffles. If a list of ingredients on show beyond avocados and kiwifruit aren’t a sign of success, the collaborations and sense of community created has to be. As Stacey points out, “those collaborations don’t just happen”, it takes an event like Flavours of Plenty to provide the catalyst. The hope is this sense of community will continue to grow beyond the festival. Tickets are now on sale for the first Flavours of Plenty, and as we go to print,
Made by locals for locals.
We use traditional methods and the highest quality ingredients to create truly authentic sourdough.
FIND YOUR LOCAL STOCKIST AT Mountsourdough
MOUNTSOURDOUGH.COM
@mountsourdoughco
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New Zealand is in the red setting. Tourism Bay of Plenty General Manager Oscar Nathan acknowledges the predictions of high COVID cases have raised concerns about events. “We’ve been having a lot of discussions with stakeholders in the past two weeks, gauging the sentiment within the local hospitality sector, and they’re confident they can deliver each festival event safely within the current red settings. In fact, they’ve said what they really need right now is for the public to get behind this initiative. We’re encouraging foodie fans from around the country to take up this opportunity, with the confidence that if anything has to change later, full refunds will be issued (minus the standard booking fee).” Festival director Rae Baker says the COVID-19 policy that’s being applied to each event is robust. “We have worked with event partners to ensure red traffic light requirements can be adhered to, keeping people as safe as possible, and we’re satisfied that we can run the festival at all levels of the current COVID-19 Protection Framework,” she says. “While we are in red, each event will operate within the 100-person limit, and if we move back into orange by the time the festival takes place in April, we will be able to revert to unlimited event capacities. Events at all levels will require a vaccine pass, with nonvaccinated patrons able to attend the Tauranga Farmers’ Market and the Mount Mainstreet Urban Market.” Oscar points out “the flow-on effect of a festival like this will bring much-needed custom for a wide range of local businesses – and it’s becoming obvious just how vital it is to support them, now more than ever. We expect this festival will become a recurring annual feature in our regional event calendar and will continue to benefit the Bay for years to come.” So, what’s on the menu? PAGE 28 | WWW.NOURISHMAGAZINE.CO.NZ
There is cheese rolling with Mount Eliza Cheese, and there is brewery tours at the likes of Mata brewery in Whakatāne and Slab Brewery in Tauranga. If beer is your thing, join Ian and Brent from Lumberjack Brewery for a gorgeous five course dinner with matching beers at Oscar & Otto. Learn the art of sourdough making with Mount Sourdough. Discover the story behind the outrageously successful Pepper & Me with a fun filled night at Elizabeth Café hosted by Cherie Metcalfe, the owner of Pepper & Me, KitCo and Cain & Abel knives. Discover the amazing produce in the bay as some of the top restaurants put together set menus highlighting local food. Fife Lane in the Mount has a three-course lunch and C’Vue Restaurant Taste of Plenty shared platters. Clarence Bistro chef Perrin Yates has curated a 5-course tasting menu with matching beverages from Mills Reef and Mata Beer, while Ian Harrison at Sugo is veging out with a plant-based Kings Feast Lunch. Local culinary superstars Kārena and Kasey, in collaboration with Kitchen Takeover will use traditional cooking techniques with modern twists, whilst celebrating the Bay’s plentiful produce for a hāngī at Persimmon Lane in Te Puna. For the full line up of events and to buy tickets go to www.flavoursofplentyfestival.com
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AUTUMN JEWELS -
Feijoa RECIPES & IMAGES KATHY PATERSON
Fortunately feijoas freeze well cut and scooped, but there is nothing quite like eating them fresh or freshly cooked. I’ve been swapping buckets of limes for feijoas, and I’m now having fun using them up.
Recipe on Page 31
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Roasted Feijoa and Lime Shortcake Make this shortcake a few times, then you will be able to do it with your eyes shut. The texture is perfectly short and the jam-like feijoa filling is wonderful.
SERVES 6
125g butter, softened ½ cup icing sugar 1 free-range egg 1 cup plain flour pinch of salt ¼ cup cornflour 1 tsp baking powder 1 quantity of recipe for roasted feijoas icing sugar for sprinkling 1 lime Heat the oven to 180°C. Lightly grease a shallow enamel pie dish or similar.
Add the egg and beat well. Sift in the flour, a pinch of salt, cornflour and baking powder and fold in. Turn out onto a floured bench and roll into a ball. Press two-thirds of the dough into the dish until evenly spread. The dough is quite sticky so flour your hands to press dough in or use the back of a metal spoon. Spoon cooled feijoas over the base, leaving any excess juice behind. Break remaining dough into small pieces and put on top, then gently press them down. The pieces of dough will spread together during baking. Put in the oven and bake for 25–30 minutes until golden. Remove from the oven and leave to cool a little before sprinkling with icing sugar. Finely grate the zest of the lime over the shortcake. Serve with yoghurt, whipped cream or ice cream.
Beat the butter and icing sugar together until light and creamy.
Easy Feijoa Tart Tip – while you have the oven on, use leftover pastry trimmings to make a few cheese straws.
My go-to pudding if I need one in a hurry and you can vary the fruit to fit the season. Make an egg wash by lightly whisking just the yolk and a teaspoon of cold water together—this gives a gorgeous, dark honey colour to your cooked pastry.
SERVES 4
250g pre-rolled butter puff pastry (I used Paneton pastry available at Vetro), thawed 5–6 large feijoas egg wash for brushing 2 tbsp caster sugar, for sprinkling 1 lime yoghurt, cream or ice cream for serving Heat the oven to 200°C. Line a baking tray with baking paper. Cut a 20cm disc from the prerolled pastry and put on the prepared tray. Make a shallow
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cut (ensuring you don’t cut all the way through), about 5mm from the edge of the pastry in a circle. You are essentially making a frame around the disc of pastry, which aerates the pastry so it puffs during cooking to give you an edge. Prick the pastry within the frame with a fork, then brush the entire top of the pastry with egg wash. Put in the fridge to firm up. Meanwhile, peel and slice the feijoas. Remove the pastry disc from the fridge and arrange the sliced feijoas on the pastry, again within the frame, overlapping each piece slightly. Sprinkle with the sugar. Put in the oven and bake for 20–30 minutes until feijoas soften and the pastry is a dark honey colour and crisp. Remove from the oven and finely grate over the zest of the lime. Cut into slices and serve with yoghurt, cream or ice cream.
Poached Feijoas with Yoghurt Cream, Granola Sprinkle and Chocolate Shavings SERVES 4 GRANOLA SPRINKLE
ginger or cinnamon and a pinch of salt in a bowl and mix well. Melt the butter then stir in the maple syrup. Pour over the oat mixture and stir to combine. Beat the egg white until soft peaks form then fold through the oat mixture. Spoon onto the prepared tray and spread evenly. Put in the oven and cook until golden and toasted, 20–30 minutes. Leave to cool for 10 minutes before breaking apart. Store in an airtight container.
1 cup quick-cook rolled oats or use puffed rice ½ cup whole almonds, roughly chopped ¼ cup raw cashew nuts, roughly chopped ¼ cup coconut chips 1 tbsp white sesame seeds 1 tbsp chia seeds ½ tsp ground ginger or ground cinnamon pinch of salt 25g butter 1 tbsp maple syrup 1 large free-range egg white POACHED FEIJOAS, CREAM AND CHOCOLATE SHAVINGS
8 large feijoas, peeled and sliced or halved, flesh scooped out with a teaspoon 2 tbsp sugar for sprinkling or more to taste
To poach the feijoas, put the prepared feijoas in a saucepan, sprinkle with the sugar and add 2 good splashes of cold water. Cover with a lid and put over medium-low heat. Poach gently until tender, shaking the saucepan a couple of times. To serve, gently fold together the whipped cream and yoghurt. Arrange the poached feijoas in 4 shallow serving bowls or on plates and add a good spoonful of the yoghurt cream. Sprinkle with some granola. Put the chocolate on a board with the flat side uppermost. Drag the blade of a large sharp knife from the top edge, down towards the bottom edge to cut very thin shavings of chocolate. As you cut shavings, sprinkle on top of the desserts.
Roasted Feijoas Try roasting feijoas, it’s a great way to preserve them for a few days. If you are using roasted feijoas for the shortcake recipe, then finely grate the zest of the lime before juicing.
12 large feijoas, halved, flesh scooped out with a teaspoon juice of 1 lime (use a juicy lime) ½ cup sugar
½ cup cream, whipped ½ cup plain yoghurt 250g block white chocolate To make the granola, heat the oven to 170°C. Line a shallow baking tray with baking paper. Put the oats, nuts, coconut chips, seeds,
Tip – you will not use a lot of the chocolate, so wrap well and store for other uses. Roasted feijoas would work well in this pudding too. Change up the presentation and serve layered in individual glasses.
Kathy Paterson Kathy Paterson is a recipe developer, food stylist and photographer. A plentiful herb garden and a trial and error vegetable garden give Kathy the starting place for her recipes along with her love of the classics with a modern twist. www.kathypaterson.co.nz
Heat the oven to 200°C. Put the feijoas in an ovenproof dish (or line a baking tray with baking paper) large enough so they more or less sit in a single layer. Drizzle over the lime juice then sprinkle over the sugar. Put in the oven and roast for 20 minutes or until the feijoas take on a golden colour and have a subtle jam or marmalade aroma. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool. Roasted feijoas will keep in the fridge for a few days.
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112 Tara Rd, Papamoa p (07) 542-0190 www.pacificapapamoa.com
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While blackberries are almost impossible to buy in the freezer section of the supermarket, you will find them at Vetro. Knowing where you can buy frozen is important, as finding fresh blackberries for sale is nigh on impossible, yet they literally grow on the side of the road, free for the picking. Trust me, once you start looking you’ll see them everywhere. But beware, they’re a thorny bunch and you might pay the price for scrambling for that dark bunch just out of reach.
Autumnal Pork Loin Salad with Blackberry Chutney By the time autumn rolls around most of us are a little over salads. This one might just help you fall back in love with them as it combines some of the best autumnal flavours. Opt for a mesclun mix of salad leaves or bitter peppery leaves like rocket.
1 tbsp butter 2 large shallots, thinly sliced (or half a red onion) ¼ cup sherry vinegar ¼ cup brown sugar 2 cups blackberries salt and pepper 1x 500g pork tenderloin 2 tbsp oil
1 apple, julienned 1 cup fennel bulb, thinly sliced 100g blue cheese In a small saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat and sauté the shallots until tender. Add the vinegar, brown sugar, and 1½ cups blackberries. Cook until mixture is syrupy and some of the berries have collapsed, around 10 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Meanwhile, season pork with salt and pepper. In a heavy based pan, heat the oil and then sear the pork, turning every five minutes until golden brown all over and cooked through. Allow the pork to rest for at least five minutes before slicing. While the pork is resting, make the salad by tossing the salad greens together with the remaining blackberries, fennel and apple. Place on a large platter, top with the sliced pork and drizzle over the blackberry chutney. Finally crumble over the blue cheese and serve.
2–3 cups salad greens
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Blackened Berry Chicken 500g blackberries ¼ cup water 1 tbsp white wine vinegar 1 tbsp brown sugar 1 tbsp wholegrain mustard 6 chicken thighs, bone in, skin on Combine blackberries, water, vinegar and sugar in a small saucepan. Simmer, mashing occasionally, until liquid is reduced (approx. 20 minutes). Stir in the wholegrain mustard. Pat the chicken dry with a paper towel, season with salt and black pepper. Grill or bake skin-side up, for 15 minutes. Baste with some of the glaze and continue to cook, basting occasionally, until cooked through, a further 15–20 minutes. Serve with remaining glaze.
Peach & Blackberry Crumble Make the most of late season peaches with fresh blackberries in this free form crumble.
¾ cup flour ¼ cup brown sugar 1 tsp ground ginger ½ tsp cinnamon 100g butter, chilled, chopped ½ cup slivered almonds 4–6 peaches (Golden Queen are my favourite) 2 cups fresh blackberries Mix the flour, sugar and spices in a large bowl. Use your fingertips to rub in the butter until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Stir in the slivered almonds. Cut the peaches in half and remove the stone. Place in a deep baking dish along with the blackberries. Scatter over the crumble and bake at 180°C for 20–30 minutes or until the crumble is golden and the peaches are tender. Serve with vanilla ice cream and enjoy!
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Blackberry & Apple Crumble Cake Blackberries and new season apples are a wonderful combination. If you can’t find Granny Smith apples, opt for a tarter variety than the modern sweet apples. This cake is a delicious afternoon treat served with a dollop of cream but equally delicious for dessert with a scoop of vanilla ice cream or, as my husband would insist, custard. CRUMBLE
1 cup sugar
½ cup sugar
2 eggs
½ cup flour
1 cup flour
½ cup ground almonds
¾ cup ground almonds
½ tsp salt
1 tsp baking powder
50g butter, chilled and chopped into cubes
½ tsp salt ¼ tsp baking soda ½ cup sour cream
CAKE
2 cups blackberries
115g butter, soft
2 Granny Smith apples, peeled and sliced
For the crumble: Mix together sugar, flour, ground almonds and salt in a bowl. Work in butter until mixture is crumbly. Refrigerate until ready to use. For the cake: Grease and line a 23cm cake tin. Cream the butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating well between each addition. Fold in the dry ingredients and sour cream until flour is just incorporated. Pour the cake batter into the cake tin and top with the apple slices and blackberries. Scatter the crumble on top and bake at 180°C until a toothpick inserted in the centre comes out clean, approx. an hour – an hour and a quarter.
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THE
APPLE OF MY EY E RECIPES & IMAGES AMBER BREMNER
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Autumn might be my favourite season, with its clear but cool days, colourful leaves underfoot, and of course the plentiful fresh produce. New season apples are harvested from February and are at their best through autumn, before they’re cool stored to supply supermarkets for the rest of the year. Branch out from apple crumble and try them in this crunchy salad or silken dessert.
APPLE AND BAY LEAF CREAMS
These layered desserts are fragrant with the heady scent of bay leaves, typically used in savoury dishes for their subtle peppery warmth. They also pair beautifully with apple and lemon, adding a little complexity to this otherwise quite simple recipe. Get your hands on some fresh bay leaves, if you can, for the best flavour. Agar-agar powder (available from Vetro) is a flavourless, plant-based alternative to gelatin, used to set the dessert. APPLE LAYER
2 Granny Smith apples ½ cup water 2 tbsp sugar 1 tbsp lemon juice 1 bay leaf
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RECIPES
3 tbsp sugar 2 bay leaves 1 strip of lemon zest 1 tsp vanilla extract ½ tsp agar-agar powder - available at Vetro Peel, core and dice apples. Add to a saucepan with water, sugar, lemon juice and a bay leaf. Cook over medium-low heat for 10–15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until tender, but still with some texture. Discard the bay leaf and spoon the apple mixture evenly into four small jars or ramekins. For the cream layer, add everything to a saucepan and stir to combine over mediumlow heat. Simmer for five minutes, stirring often, to activate the agar-agar. Discard the bay leaves and lemon zest, then pour evenly over the apple layer in your jars or ramekins. Pop in the fridge for an hour to set, or make them ahead of time. These desserts will keep, covered, for up to three days in the fridge.
CREAM LAYER
1 can coconut milk (400ml) ½ cup apple juice
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APPLE, FENNEL AND CELERY SALAD
Crunchy, sweet and tangy with gentle warmth, this salad is a crowd pleaser. Use sweet, crisp apples like Pacific Rose or Pink Lady. Aleppo pepper flakes (available from Vetro) are mild with a little bright fruitiness that match perfectly here. I recommend seeking them out (they’re excellent sprinkled over just about everything), otherwise substitute with a small pinch of cayenne pepper. Leave out the croutons if you’re gluten free. DRESSING
1 small fennel
3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
a few handfuls of dark leafy greens
1 tbsp apple cider vinegar 1 tbsp lemon juice 1 tsp Aleppo pepper flakes - available at Vetro ½ tsp Dijon mustard ½ tsp sugar ¼ tsp ground black pepper ¼ tsp salt SALAD
½ cup walnuts 2 thick slices of Mount Sourdough, crusts removed and torn into small pieces 1 clove garlic, peeled olive oil 4 celery sticks 1 apple, cored 1 small red onion, or 1–2 shallots
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Put dressing ingredients into a small jar or sealed container and shake to combine. Toast walnuts in a frypan over medium heat, with a little olive oil, until golden and fragrant. Season with a little salt and set aside on a plate to cool. In the same pan, add a splash more oil, the torn bread and one clove of garlic. Stir or toss until the bread is golden and crisp, discard garlic and set croutons aside to cool. Thinly slice celery, apple, red onion and fennel (use a mandolin for the fennel if you have one). Toss together with the dressing, toasted walnuts and croutons, then arrange over a bed of dark leafy greens (I used baby kale). The salad can be made ahead of time (and makes great leftovers the next day), just add the croutons at the last minute so they stay crunchy.
Amber Bremner Quite Good Food www.quitegoodfood.co.nz Amber Bremner is the author of popular plant based food blog Quite Good Food. A champion for cooking and eating food that makes you feel good, she believes small changes in the way we approach food have the power to make a difference.
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PUMPKIN RECIPES & IMAGES EMMA GALLOWAY
Nothing symbolises the start of autumn more for me than pumpkins. Harvested in autumn, they are cheap and plentiful right about now. They’re also good keepers, if stored somewhere cool and with good airflow, meaning they’re one of my favourite vegetables to grow and eat throughout the cooler months.
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P U M PKI N + JAC KFRU I T YE LLOW C U RRY I know people get nervous making Thai curries from scratch as the ingredient list can look a little daunting; however, it is a really straightforward process. You can also make the curry paste well in advance, as it stores in the fridge for up to 4 days, or double up this recipe and freeze in portions for quick and easy mid-week meals. Feel free to add some Asian greens or broccoli to the curry for a little colour, if you like. You’ll find tins of young green jackfruit at most supermarkets. It adds a ‘meaty’ texture to vegetarian dishes. I use buttercup pumpkin here as I love their dense texture, but you can use any flavoursome pumpkin. SERVES 4 WITH RICE
YELLOW CURRY PASTE
5 shallots, unpeeled 6 cloves garlic, unpeeled 1 tbsp coriander seeds 1 tbsp finely grated ginger 3 red chillies, roughly chopped 1 lemongrass stalk, tender bottom part only, sliced thinly 2 tsp curry powder 1 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp salt 1 tbsp coconut oil 400ml tin coconut milk 2 tbsp coconut sugar 1½ tbsp soy sauce (gluten-free if needed) half a medium buttercup pumpkin, cut into bite-sized cubes (roughly 3–4 cups diced) 400g tin young green jackfruit, drained and rinsed well (available at Vetro) juice ½ lime cooked jasmine rice, sliced chilli and coriander leaves, to serve
To make the curry paste, place unpeeled shallots and garlic into a dry heavy-based frying pan and cook over medium-high heat 8–10 minutes, stirring often, until the skins are charred and the insides tender. Remove from the pan and set aside. In the same hot pan, toast the coriander seeds 15–20 seconds while stirring, until golden and fragrant. Immediately transfer the toasted seeds to a mortar and pestle and grind to a coarse powder. Transfer ground coriander to food processor, peel shallots and garlic and add along with the grated ginger, chillies, lemongrass, curry powder, ground cumin and salt. Blend to form a smooth paste, adding 2–4 tablespoons water if needed to help it blend easier. To make curry, heat coconut oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add curry paste and cook, stirring often, for 3–4 minutes until fragrant and slightly reduced. Add coconut milk, 200ml cold water, coconut sugar, soy sauce and diced pumpkin. Cut each piece of green jackfruit in half, if large, then add to the saucepan. Bring to the boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook 8–10 minutes or until the pumpkin is just tender. Remove from the heat and stir through lime juice. Serve immediately with jasmine rice, sliced chillies and coriander leaves.
Fresh from our farm to your kitchen Taste the difference otaikavalleyeggs.co.nz
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PUM PK IN + K I MC H I FR IED R I C E I’ve used butternut pumpkin here, but any flavoursome pumpkin will do. Do your best to dice it as finely as you can to ensure quick cooking. If vegetarian or vegan, ensure your kimchi is free of fish-sauce. For added protein, serve topped with a fried egg or tofu. This recipe can easily be doubled to feed more. SERVES 2
1½ tbsp coconut, olive or peanut oil 2 spring onions, finely sliced 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped 1 cup pumpkin, finely diced 2 cups cold cooked jasmine rice (leftover rice is perfect)
Heat oil in a large frying pan over high heat. Add finely diced pumpkin and cook, stirring often, for 3–4 minutes, until starting to colour and just tender (this time could vary if your dice is a little on the large side). Add the white parts of the spring onion and chopped garlic and cook for a further minute before adding the cold rice. Cook, stirring often until warmed through and the grains have separated. Add kimchi, stir well and remove from the heat. Stir through soy sauce, sesame oil, sesame seeds and half the sliced green spring onion tops. Season with salt and ground white pepper, to taste and serve immediately, topped with remaining sliced green spring onion tops.
Emma Galloway mydarlinglemonthyme.com @mydarlinglemonthyme Emma Galloway is a former chef, food photographer and creator of the multi-award winning food blog My Darling Lemon Thyme. She is the author of three cookbooks, her latest book Every Day was released in April 2021. She lives in Raglan with her husband and two children.
½ cup kimchi, roughly chopped 2 tsp soy sauce (gluten free, if needed) 1 tsp toasted sesame oil 1 tsp sesame seeds, lightly toasted fine salt and ground white pepper
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Life's a Brunch RECIPES & IMAGES FIONA HUGUES
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NOURISH
How I do love to attend a brunch soiree, as it leaves the rest of the day to do great things, undoubtedly fuelled by drinking bubbles at breakfast time. Hosting an early gathering is, however, the cause of much anxiety and heart palpitations among most, and there’s a few that won’t even bother such is the torture the mere thought of playing host brings. Fear not my friends, help is at hand. Here is my completely stress-free, prepared in advance brunch so that you too can enjoy bubbles for breakfast without sweat or tears. A FEW DAYS BEFORE Order pastries, the best you can afford. Decide on your table colour palette and try to stick to it. I’ve used an old rose and mustard floral theme here led by a piece of linen I used as a tablecloth because those usual garish pink and environmentally hazardous get-ups garnered from a reckless trip to a $2 shop make me grimace. Don’t be afraid to mix old and new tableware, but try to keep it all within colours you can count on one hand. I added black and white striped napkins for some graphic chic, but all similar shades are worth a crack too. The pretty Karen Walker side plates I used were the perfect match for my $1 op shop pink champagne flutes. The floral linen fabric was a good match with my handmade pottery plates. Same goes for flowers – mix garden and roadside finds with a few bunches from a florist for relaxed hostess happiness shown off in a vase.
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RECIPES
Buy ingredients for my brunch recipes and add some seasonal fruit to appease any vegetarians or vegans on your guest list. THE DAY BEFORE Make the bagel spreads, rillettes and potato salad, and chill in the fridge. Prepare your table, wash and iron linens, put out plates, glassware, cups for coffee and cutlery. Cut stems of flowers and arrange in vases of fresh water. Chill champagne … dairy and oat milk too if offering tea and coffee. ON THE DAY Put on your daytime jazzy playlist – I usually play Spotify French café or bossa nova lists. Light a few scented candles. Pile pastries, toasted bagels and brioche and stack onto serve ware or into baskets. Add butter and preserves to accompany the croissants. (Trick – put jams in small bowls or vintage jars so your guests think you made them.) Fill a press with ground beans or get your filter ready for coffee. Pull everything out of the fridge and place on the table. When guests arrive, chat, socialise and pour champagne. And in a rather magical fashion when ready to eat, with no stress at all, casually point guests towards your buffet brunch table so they can help themselves. Voila! You’re welcome.
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CREAMY CHEESE BAGEL SPREADS
I’m of the age where I can vaguely recall a retro cheese ball sitting proudly on a 1980s table all creamy, tart and delicious. Insanely tasty, I’ve brought that swanky party time beast of old out of pre-extinction and jazzed it up for brunch to serve with bagels. Frankly, I don’t really like too much fondling of my balls in the morning, so these ones aren’t manhandled and tossed about, instead they’re served in jars which makes them easier to store in the fridge. They’ll last for a good week or so. Just bring them out a half hour before serving to soften so they’re easy to spread.
SICILIAN CHEESE SPREAD 450–500g cream cheese, softened ½ cup grated cheese (I used Noble but Parmesan is great if you want a stronger flavour or mozzarella or Colby for those who prefer a milder palate). a whisper of crushed garlic, about 1/3 clove ¼ cup sautéed red capsicum, sliced 2 tbsp red onion, finely chopped 2 tbsp sundried tomatoes, sliced slivered green olives 1½ tsp tomato paste fresh chopped herbs (I used basil and flat leaf parsley) salt & pepper In a bowl beat together the cream cheese, garlic and grated cheese until well combined and pretty much smooth. (I used my stand mixer with paddle attachment). Stir in all the other ingredients well and taste. Adjust seasoning or ingredients as you prefer. Spoon into jars and refrigerate. Serve at room temperature.
BACON WALNUT SPREAD 450–500g cream cheese, softened ½ cup grated cheese 3 rashers of streaky bacon, cooked and finely chopped 2 tbsp horseradish, grated ½ cup toasted walnuts, chopped salt & pepper a squeeze of lemon to taste. Use the same method as above.
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SALMON RILLETTES Salmon in the morning is such a delicious thing. Most days I prefer savoury flavours early, and this ticks all my boxes. Rillettes (pronounced ‘ree-yet’) is a French classic made with smoked and poached salmon, flavoured with delicate fragrant things all buttery and rich. It is sublime on brioche toast but equally great on a bagel, and it keeps well in the fridge for a week (pop it on blinis for aperitif time later in the day or serve portions individually as an entrée with sliced baguette). My recipe here is more of a guide, so don’t forget to taste as you go.
300–400g approx. fresh salmon fillet, deboned 4 x spring onions, 2 roughly chopped, 2 finely sliced /3 cup white wine
2
zest of a lemon, plus the juice 250-300g hot smoked salmon fillet 1 x shallot, finely chopped 2–3 tbsp crème fraiche /3 cup good mayonnaise
1
2 tbsp whole seed mustard 1–2 tbsp fresh dill, chopped ¼ cup salted capers, rinsed and roughly chopped salt & pepper
Place the wine, fresh salmon, lemon zest and roughly chopped spring onions in a saucepan and add water just to cover. Bring to the boil, turn off heat and set aside to cool and infuse. In a bowl mix together the chopped shallot, finely chopped spring onion, mayo, mustard, capers, dill and crème fraiche. Drain poached salmon and discard liquid. Flake in the cooled gently cooked salmon (it should be dark pink and only just cooked) and add the smoked salmon and stir to combine. The key is keeping chunks of glorious pink fish, so don’t over mix. Have a taste. Season with a little salt, pepper and a squeeze of lemon and more tart crème fraiche if you need. Place in a bowl, cover and refrigerate for at least an hour so the flavours can get to know each other. Serve on toasted brioche, crostini, bagels or whatever bready thing takes your fancy.
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ALL DAY POTATO SALAD WITH SOFT BOILED EGGS
This salad is great at any time of the day. I’ve served it individually here for ease, but you can whack it on a big serving plate and shower it in chives to take to a BBQ. I love it in the morning as it’s all lemony and eggy with salty bacon bits. It’s pretty much a no fuss eggs benedict – just add some buttery wilted spinach if you’re a purist.
1 x 700g bag small gourmet potatoes (I used Medley for interest and colour), chopped into similar sizes 1 tbsp vegetable oil 1 red sweetie capsicum, sliced 9 rashers smoky dry-cured bacon, 5–6 chopped, 3 left whole 1 cup mayonnaise (or hollandaise if you like) 1 cup unsweetened Greek yoghurt ¼ cup fresh chives, chopped juice of a lemon flatleaf parsley, roughly chopped 3–5 soft boiled eggs, peeled and cut in half salt & pepper
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Place potatoes in a large pan of slightly salted water and bring to the boil. Simmer until tender when tested with a sharp knife. Drain and set aside to cool. In a pan over medium heat, add the oil and sauté the capsicum until softened and starting to golden. Place the mayonnaise and yoghurt in a large bowl, season, and add lemon juice to taste. Add the cooked capsicum, chopped chives, parsley and chopped bacon. Stir to combine and adjust seasoning to your liking. Add potatoes and toss to coat. Spoon salad into serving dishes – I used small wine goblets. Tuck in a rasher of bacon and nestle half an egg on top. Season with a sprinkle of pepper. Keep salad refrigerated but serve at room temperature with small cake forks.
Fiona Hugues Award winning food stylist, designer & creative multi-hyphenate Fiona Hugues spent her childhood gallivanting around the Waikato countryside on horse back. After Hillcrest High School, Elam School of Fine Arts took her to Auckland where she has lived ever since and now resides on a rural property with her French husband, their three children & a plethora of animals. She’s an entertaining expert, sourdough coach, art director and gourmand and it’s said in dire circumstances she would possibly trade one of her children for a bottle of Pinot Grigio & a good burrata.
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HARRIET’S HOW TO –
CINNAMON ROLLS WORDS HARRIET BOUCHER | IMAGES ASHLEE DECAIRES
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Mum’s cinnamon buns are iconic in our family. They have been used as bribery, to say thanks, for birthdays, and just for a decadent weekend treat. It was a no-brainer to do this season’s ‘how to’ on the trendy sweet bread.
Mum also recommended an old recipe from the American magazine Good Housekeeping, which had a similar rising issue as the Swedish cinnamon buns. It was a strange method, as you gradually beat in the flour to the milk mixture over a five-minute period, before turning it out to knead. The yeast never dissolved into the milk, which left it with little yeast granules throughout the finished product.
What is a cinnamon roll (or bun, or scroll)? According to bakerpedia.com, it is sweet baked dough, filled with cinnamonsugar filling. It is made with rich dough leavened with yeast; the characteristic form is due to rolling a dough sheet containing the sweetened cinnamon filling. Cinnamon rolls are thought to have originated in Sweden and are celebrated there on October 4th every year.
I also tested Erin Clarkson’s brioche dough for her brown butter cinnamon rolls (from cloudykitchen.com, a New Zealand baking blog). This recipe used a stand mixer with a dough hook. It started out a bit dry but eventually kneaded into buttery soft dough. This brioche had vanilla essence in the dough which gave it a subtle scent. I’m not sure this came through in the cooked cinnamon bun though. I had great success with the yeast this time around and it proved perfectly.
There are so many options for the perfect cinnamon bun. Even when you think you’ve nailed it, it still can come down to personal preference: thick cream cheese icing or a thin glaze? Brioche, enriched or basic dough? A cinnamon sugar sprinkle or a buttery paste? After six rounds of testing (such a hard job), I think I’ve found my pick! THE DOUGH: This is the most important part of the cinnamon bun, so I felt the pressure to get it right. I started with professional baker and patissier Dean Brettschneider’s Swedish cinnamon bun dough, flavoured with cardamom. It was a cold day but even after finding a warm spot, my dough struggled to rise. Admittedly I used active dry yeast instead of instant dry which the recipe calls for, so that may have been my downfall. I also tried Dean’s NYC Sticky Buns which uses the same dough, without the cardamom. This time I activated the yeast in the warm milk, and it rose perfectly. Dean’s doughs are sticky to start, which requires a little extra flour, but they knead into a silky-smooth product that are a breeze to work with. My mother Tracey Gunn’s cinnamon buns use her basic bread-maker dough that gets turned into bread rolls, pizza bases and scrolls in our house. I made this dough by hand but used the Surebake yeast that you would typically use in a breadmaker. It worked a treat and resulted in soft, pliable dough.
THE FILLING: My filling preference is a buttery brown sugar and cinnamon paste (just like Mum makes) over a sprinkling of cinnamon sugar, but I was willing to try all options. For the Swedish buns, Dean Brettschneider sprinkles a brown sugar and cinnamon mix over his dough that has been rolled out and brushed with water. He adds white sugar into the mix for his NYC sticky buns, which doesn’t make a huge difference in flavour. The Good Housekeeping recipe uses a similar sugar mix, but the dough is brushed generously with butter before being coated in sugar. These three sugar mixes were lacking that warmth and spice that cinnamon brings. The Cloudy Kitchen brown butter filling was quite fiddly: you brown the butter, cool it down to a spreadable consistency and then beat it with brown sugar, cinnamon and vanilla. The generous amount of cinnamon was inspiring though, everyone else should take note! Mum’s paste is similar, minus a lot of the effort, and she too is generous with her cinnamon quantity. THE SHAPING: To me, the best cinnamon rolls are the iconic tray of perfectly touching buns, rolled into tight spirals and baked cut side up; they’re oozy with filling—and icing—when you finally pull them apart. These are how buns by Cloudy Kitchen, Good Housekeeping and Mum are shaped. Even though this is my personal favourite, the middle buns lack the crust that the outer buns achieve. But some people love the sticky middle buns so choose wisely who you share them with. Dean Brettschneider’s Swedish cinnamon buns have a traditional knot shape. These can be twisted a
few different ways, but you start by rolling the dough into a sheet, spreading it with filling, then folding it in half and cutting strips. These strips are then twisted and stretched out. Dean ties his buns into a double knot, but they can also be twirled around your thumb to create a tight spiral. Traditionally, they are also sprinkled with crunchy pearl sugar instead of a glaze, but that was impossible to find in stores so we skipped that step. Dean’s NYC sticky buns start off with a log of filled dough that’s cut into 12 buns but instead of sitting cosy on a tray, they are placed into Texas muffin tins that have a dollop of a caramel-like glaze in the bottom of each hole. THE ICING: Cloudy Kitchen uses an American-style cream cheese icing that was slathered over each bun. The icing was delectable, but it was definitely too much when paired with a brioche cinnamon bun. A few of my taste-testers ended up wiping most of the icing off. The glaze that sits beneath the NYC sticky bun is made with honey, sugar, butter, vanilla and salt. It bubbles into a caramel as the dough bakes around it. When the buns are flipped out, they have a toffee-like topping that is to die for. However, since we were making cinnamon buns, I found that the honey overpowered the cinnamon flavour.
Make the Dish. Win a Nourish Subscription. Make Harriet’s Ultimate Cinnamon Buns or a version of them and send a picture to vicki@nourishmagazine.co.nz If we share your handiwork you’ll win a Nourish subscription for a year.
Mum’s and the Good Housekeeping’s buns have a basic icing sugar/water glaze over top which adds naughty sweetness to the bun while the cinnamon flavour stands hero. THE TASTE TEST: Good Housekeeping’s dough came out spongy and airy. If it wasn’t for the filling and glaze, it would have been very dry. I’d give these ones a miss. Cloudy Kitchen’s brioche-based bun was a dessert in itself. For the amount of effort that goes into a brioche, it wouldn’t be my pick for an everyday cinnamon bun, but they are worth it when impressing a crowd. They are very sweet, and the icing is a bit too generous, but that’s part of the glory of a cinnamon bun, isn’t it? Dean’s Swedish cinnamon buns were my least favourite, but the version made by Whangamata’s Port Road Project cafe is out-thegate-good, packed with cardamom flavour and always with pearl sugar on top. I love the intricate shaping of these buns and being less sweet, they are a bit lighter than Cloudy Kitchen’s buns, and NYC sticky buns. Mum’s cinnamon buns were just how I remember them growing up. The dough is quite savoury, which I personally love. The filling is packed with cinnamon and the sweet glaze brings it all together. For me, the winner was a close call between these and Dean’s NYC sticky buns. The NYC sticky buns were fluffy and moreish, and the toffee glaze was an enticing change from icing. The filling on the first test of these lacked cinnamon and the honey in the glaze was quite overpowering.
Available at great food stores and online at
peplers.co.nz
or visit us at 5c Main St, Te Kauwhata
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Harriet's Ultimate
Cinnamon Buns
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RECIPES
To create my ultimate cinnamon bun, I have used Dean’s NYC sticky bun dough, removed the honey from the glaze and used Mum’s brown sugar paste filling. This is my winning combo that encapsulates the cinnamon bun definition.
Once the dough is soft and elastic. Place in a lightly oiled bowl, covered with plastic wrap, for 45 minutes or until doubled in size.
DOUGH:
While the dough is rising, make your filling by beating the butter with the brown sugar and cinnamon until it becomes a smooth paste. It doesn’t need to be light and fluffy, just evenly mixed.
3½ tsp active dry yeast 500g strong bread flour 1¼ tsp salt 100g butter ½ cup sugar 1 medium Otaika Valley egg 260ml milk, warmed to 30°C FILLING:
140g butter, softened ¾ cup brown sugar 2½ tbsp cinnamon GLAZE:
200g brown sugar 100g butter pinch of salt ½ tsp vanilla extract
Tip the dough out of the bowl and gently deflate by folding it on itself 3–4 times. Place the dough back in the bowl, cover and leave for a further 30 minutes.
To make the glaze, very gently melt all of the ingredients together in a saucepan over a low heat until the sugar is dissolved, making sure not to boil it. Grease two, six-hole Texas muffin tins well with butter or spray oil. Place 2 tbsp of the glaze in the bottom of each muffin cup. Tip dough onto a lightly floured work surface. Using a rolling pin, roll out to a 45cm x 35cm rectangle, with the long edge facing you. Spread the cinnamon filling evenly over the dough, then tightly and evenly roll the dough into a log. Lengthen the log slightly by gently rolling it, then cut into 12 even pieces, approximately 4cm thick. Place each dough piece into a muffin cup with the spiral cut facing up. Cover with plastic wrap and leave to rise for about 1 hour until doubled in size. When buns have risen, remove plastic wrap and place into a preheated 200°C oven. Bake for 15–20 minutes until light and golden brown. Remove from the oven, wait 1 minute then tip the muffin pan upside down and allow the buns to gently fall onto a baking tray or rack. Be careful as the glaze will be hot. Allow to cool slightly then serve. Note: You can skip the glaze step and follow the recipe as usual, then ice with an icing sugar/water mix if you prefer that way!
¼ tsp cinnamon To make the dough, sprinkle the yeast over the warm milk, along with a large pinch of the sugar. Give it a whisk with a fork and allow to activate for 5–10 minutes until foamy. Place the rest of the dough ingredients, along with the yeast/milk mix, in a large mixing bowl and give it a stir with a wooden spoon to bring it together. Tip onto a lightly floured work surface and knead for 15 minutes, resting for 1 minute every few minutes to allow the dough to relax. Have a small bowl of flour handy for dusting as the dough can be quite sticky.
Harriet Boucher Harriet is a Waikato born and raised foodie. She is a chef by trade and has worked in a few popular cafes and restaurants around Hamilton. When she isn’t whipping up treats, you can find her enjoying a walk along the river or dining at her favourite local eateries.
112 Tara Rd, Papamoa p (07) 542-0190 www.pacificapapamoa.com whiteginger_pacifica
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Cinnamon Bun Knots Now that I have discovered the perfect cinnamon roll, it’s time to get a bit fancy. Shaping the bun into a knot rather than a roll gives an intricate look, and there’s no need for icing as you don’t want to cover over the detail. This twist uses the same dough and filling recipe, just without the glaze. The dough will be easier to handle if it has just finished its second, 30-minute prove, or has been in the fridge for roughly 20 minutes to firm up slightly. If you crave the sweetness, dust the buns in icing sugar before serving.
Tip: For less layers you can fold in half instead of thirds
STEP 1
STEP 2
STEP 3
Line a baking tray. Roll the dough into a 35x45cm rectangle.
Step 2: Spread the cinnamon butter all over.
Fold the 45cm side of the dough into thirds on top of itself to create a thick rectangle of dough. Make sure the edges are even and there isn’t too much overhang.
STEP 4
STEP 5
STEP 6
Gently roll the sheet out slightly thinner, but don’t go overboard as you still want the dough to have structure.
Cut the dough into 10–12 even strips.
Take one of the dough strips and cut it twice lengthways, leaving a bit attached at the top so you are left with three strands.
STEP 7
STEP 8
STEP 9 Place the knots on the lined baking tray, cover with plastic wrap and leave to prove for 30–45 minutes. In Dean Brettschneider’s book Bread, he explains that for correctly proved dough, when lightly pressed, the indentation springs back but does not fully return to its original shape.
Plait these strands and then pinch the end together.
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Starting with the pinched end, roll it up towards the top end until it’s a plaited knot of dough.
Once the buns are proved, bake in a preheated oven, set at 190°C for 15–20 minutes.
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Hear Yeast, Hear Yeast WORDS VICKI RAVLICH-HORAN | IMAGES ASHLEE DECAIRES
With more than 1,500 species, yeast can be found almost everywhere. A single celled microorganism yeast is not made but grown. In essence, this is what you are doing when you create a sourdough starter, collecting wild yeast and growing it. To grow, yeast needs food (sugar), the right temperature and oxygen. Whether making beer or bread, the process starts out the same. The enzymes in yeast convert sugar into alcohol and carbon dioxide. A baker wants to capture the carbon dioxide to leaven the bread and make it rise. A brewer wants to capture the alcohol. TOO HOT TO HANDLE! As a living organism you can easily kill yeast, and hot temperatures are a great way to do this. Anything over 59°C will kill your yeast. While cold temperatures won’t kill the yeast, it also won’t encourage it to grow, which is why yeast is stored in the fridge. The ideal temperature to get that bug multiplying is between 24°C–35°C. Though man has harnessed and used yeast for over 5,000 years, it was Louis Pasteur’s invention of the microscope that led to our understanding of yeast and thus the ability to control and manufacture it. This was great news for commercial bakers, and the likes of me who, while I appreciate a delicious sourdough loaf, has no patience for growing and maintaining my own starter. Instead, I rely on bought yeast which comes in several different forms.
FRESH YEAST Also known as cake or compressed yeast, fresh yeast is preferred by many professional bakers. Although it is harder to get and has a much shorter shelf life than other or dried forms of yeast. Fresh yeast contains around 70% moisture and does not require you to activate it like dried yeasts. ACTIVE DRY YEAST These granules of yeast have had the moisture removed, giving a shelf stable yeast with a longer shelf life. For best results the yeast granules need to be activated (sometimes called bloomed) in warm liquid before being added to the dry ingredients. INSTANT YEAST Instant yeast is more finely ground yeast that can be added directly to the dry ingredients in a recipe without being activated. It also tends to rise faster than active dry yeast. SUREBAKE YEAST OR BREADMAKER YEAST Especially formulated for beadmakers with a mix of active dry yeast and bread improvers such as wheat flour and sugar. NUTRITIONAL YEAST Created to be a food product not a raising agent, the yeast cells are killed during manufacture. Used to add a cheesy, savoury flavour to food and a handy ingredient for vegans.
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Go with the F low
with excelso
Choosing a coffee that you will love is all about personal preference and will differ from the latte lover to the filter fanatic. But with so many options to choose from, how do you know what the right coffee is to suit your tastes? Coffee, like wine, acquires its flavours from a number of different factors. Be it the soil or climate of the region that it was grown, or the way that it was processed after picking (washed, natural, anaerobic etc.) and of course the degree of roast. While single origin beans highlight the individual varietal flavours clearly, roasters, like winemakers, also blend origins to achieve the flavour they are after. So where do you begin when choosing the right bean for your brew? To help, we sat down with the Excelso team to devise a fool proof way starting with just that, your brew method.
Excelso Coffee 112 Third Avenue West, Tauranga 0800 578 2832 | www.excelso.co.nz
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Espresso Lovers or do you prefer the sweet, bright, acidic notes?
are you looking for strong, rich, full bodied flavours?
Stag Blend
Nicaragua
Good Time
Stag blend
good time
nicaragua
The stag blend is a rich, nutty, full bodied hit, sure to wake you up in the mornings!
The Good Time's bold, chocolately, citrus notes hit the spot and it's perfect black or with milk.
Nicaragua La Reynas bright caramel citrus flavours are everything you need. Especially for a long black!
filter
Fanatics
do you like fruity notes? Yes
No
So you're looking for chocolately notes! a Keny
Ethiopia
Kenya or ethiopia Ethiopian and Kenyan coffees are a great place to start if you're looking for sweet, bright, fruity flavours.
Mexic o
Colu mbia
do you prefer nutty notes? No
Yes
z il
Bra
guate ma la
mexico or colombia
brazil or guatemala
Colombian and Mexican brews are sure to hit your sweet spot if you love those sugary cocoa flavours.
Coffees from Brazil and Guatemala will be a perfect fit for you if you're looking for sweet, nutty notes.
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A TA S T E O F ELIZABETH IMAGES BRYDIE THOMPSON | RECIPES ANDRE DA SILVERIA
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SMOKED LAMB LOIN, MUSHROOM AND CELERIAC PUREE The full dish on Elizabeth’s menu includes an eggplant schnitzel and blackberry jus. For the full recipe including these components head to www.nourishmagazine.co.nz.
FOR SMOKED LAMB
From its opening days back in 2013, Elizabeth Café has been a popular spot. Key to this has always been the food, something Andre da Silveria knows well. Andre worked at Elizabeth when it opened under the tutelage of owner Andrew Target. He’s now back and he’s in charge of the kitchen this time. It’s a dynamic team, with George Gibson and Connie Richards the owners since 2019. Andre and George worked together back when George opened Henry & Ted, so it’s a tested team when it comes to running a great café. Andre says, “I love working at Elizabeth Café because of the great history. Elizabeth is still one of the best cafés in the Bay and my goal is to keep this great reputation going.” Andre is Brazilian, his mum is part Italian and his dad is part Portuguese, which might explain the variety of cuisines you’ll find on Elizabeth’s menu. What’s for sure is his family is where Andre gets his passion for cooking. “My family have always been passionate about cooking. They taught me to cook with passion or not at all.” We managed to persuade Andre to share a couple of his current favourite recipes with us. Give them a whirl yourself at home and then check how well you did by popping into Elizabeth Café. Elizabeth Café & Larder 247 Cameron Road, Tauranga
600g lamb loin 300ml grapeseed oil 5 cloves garlic, chopped 4–5 drops liquid smoke (available from Vetro) small handful thyme 500–600g portobello mushrooms FOR CELERIAC PUREE
1 big celeriac 200g butter 25ml fresh cream In a medium bowl mix grapeseed oil, liquid smoke, chopped garlic and thyme together and marinate lamb loin, ideally overnight or for at least 2 hours. Save some of the marinade and drizzle over the mushrooms then bake for about 15–20 minutes at 180°C. To cook the lamb, heat a cast iron pan and pan fry for about 2½ minutes each side for medium rare. Cover with tin foil and rest for 5–10 minutes. For the puree, peel and chop celeriac as thin as possible then place in a deep tray with butter and about a third of a cup of water (the water prevents contents burning on the bottom of the tray). Cover tray with tin foil and bake for 30–40 minutes at 180˚C or until celeriac is soft. Place cooked celeriac in a blender with the cream and salt to taste. Blend to a smooth consistency. Place a swipe of the puree on the plate, arrange the mushrooms and lamb on top, then drizzle with the blackberry jus (recipe on our website) or a cabernet reduction or balsamic glaze.
START YOUR DAY WITH US www.excelso.co.nz 112 Third Ave, Tauranga | 07 578 2832
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KOSHER SALT AND SZECHUAN PEPPER SQUID WITH DAIKON SALAD AND PONZU DRESSING Andre’s take on salt and pepper squid uses kosher salt. Kosher salt is a coarser salt than table salt (can be found at Vetro but you can also replace it with a flaky sea salt).
1kg squid tube ½–1 cup tapioca flour 1–2 tsp kosher salt 1–2 tsp Szechuan peppercorn, crushed 1 daikon 2 green pears (unpeeled) 2 green apples (unpeeled)
5 tbsp soy sauce 2 tsp mirin FOR GARNISH
Mix of spring onion, mint, Thai basil, coriander, Vietnamese mint 2 red chillies, finely sliced Cut squid down one side to open out flat, with the inside of the tube facing up. Score the squid with a knife at 45 degree angles, making sure not to cut through squid. Cut squid into strips of about 3cm wide. Set aside. Julienne daikon, unpeeled pears and apples and peeled carrots and then squeeze lime juice over salad to prevent fruit from browning. Set aside. For ponzu dressing simply add all ingredients in a bowl and mix it thoroughly.
2 tbsp mixed sesame seeds
To assemble the dish, start by spooning kewpie mayo on the plate. In a salad bowl, mix all julienne salad and dress it with the ponzu dressing. Put a handful on each plate. Coat squid in a dusting of tapioca flour, then deep fry for about 2 minutes at 175˚C. Season squid with Szechuan pepper and kosher salt, then place on top of the daikon salad.
PONZU DRESSING
Garnish salad with a drizzle of Okonomiyaki sauce, peanuts, mixed herbs and chilli.
¾ cup ponzu (Asian store)
Bon appetit!
2 carrots (peeled) Juice of 2 limes Kewpie mayo Okonomiyaki sauce (Asian store) ½ cup peanuts, crushed
3 tbsp pure sesame oil
AR TISA N PIC KL ED O N I O N S & P R ESER VE S L I KE T H E Y USE D TO TAST E . . . WWW.NANADUNNANDCO.CO.NZ � �
HA ND BOTTLED IN PA PA MOA
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Beauty THE ORIGINS OF TRANQUILLO’S SKINCARE PRODUCTS Like your favourite local eateries who carefully source where their ingredients come from, we do the same for our skincare products. I love learning the stories behind our skincare ranges, how they began their journey and how they produce their skinfriendly products. When choosing what skincare products to stock, we look at products that deliver results and improve your skin health overall, as well as what ingredients are used and the company producing them. Here are a few of our favourites and why we stock them. OBSERV Walter Arkesley from the Netherlands began investigating a skin diagnostic system based on a resolution in fluorescence-based analysis in the original Wood’s lamp. In 2014 the Observ Skin diagnostic tool was based upon a patent pending LED illumination technology that reveals hidden skin conditions with unparalleled clarity. Until then we searched for skin conditions just with the naked eye, so now that they are clearly revealed to skin therapists (and their clients), we can provide a more accurate diagnosis. JUVENATE Marie August began her personal crusade when her skin took a serious turn for the worse and she struggled to find any products or treatments that worked for her. Trained as a dispensary technician with experience in naturopathy, Marie had a deep interest in how prescriptive and natural ingredients could work effectively together. Juvenate products are NZ made, vegan, cruelty free, sustainable and ethical. ENVIRON The introduction of vitamin A into skin care formulation was a ground-breaking development by Environ. Dr Des Fernandes (rated amongst the top five plastic surgeons in the world) was a pioneer in this field in the 1980s, and he was the first to successfully use vitamin A and antioxidants in cosmetic products. Environ believes that skin has a life and that vitamin A is the ‘oxygen’ that it needs to look beautiful and healthy. O COSMEDICS “We are fortunate enough to live in a world of advanced technology and medical breakthroughs that allow us to age proof our skin and kick aging to the curb,” says Marie Enna-Cocciolone, founder and CEO of O Cosmedics. Australian made and owned, O Cosmedics is based on decades of scientific research, clinical data and supporting papers. By using
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the purest combination of medical grade ingredients, cosmetic science and their own peptide complex, O Cosmedics was designed with aging, biomimetic technology and the principles of Corneotherapy in mind. DERMALOGICA As the co-founder and chief visionary of Dermalogica and The International Dermal Institute post-graduate training centres, Jane Wurwand is one of the most recognised and respected authorities in professional skin therapy. Dermalogica’s product line grew out of a desire to provide skin therapists with best-in-class skin care products and education. They provide skills-based training for a global community of skin therapists who have one common goal: to ensure healthy skin for all. Dermalogica is the number one choice of skin care professionals worldwide. JANE IREDALE Twenty-five years ago Jane Iredale was a casting director and producer working with hundreds of actors and models. Their skin was their key asset and traditional make-up was clogging their pores and negatively impacting their skin. Responding to their struggle to keep their skin healthy, Jane created a line of clean make-up that looks beautiful when applied and also provides the skin with much needed nutrients and support. BESTOW In 2009 Bestow founder Janine Tait combined her super-powers as a nutritionist and skin-health expert to develop Bestow. Janine believes that what you put on your skin is only half the story, and although important, true skin transformation is only possible when we work from within the body. Bestow’s products include beauty oils, powders, herbal organic teas, skincare and recipes along with cleanses and rituals. Each brand has a special story that resonates with Tranquillo. If any of these stories appealed to you then book a skin consultation with Tranquillo to learn more. Isn’t it about time your skin hears a new story that will be kinder to both you and the planet?
Sue
Sue from Tranquillo Beauty in Tauranga has great advice each season to keep your skin beautiful and healthy.
tranquillobeauty.co.nz
Beauty GREY MATTERS Handsome, distinguished, even sexy, these are the compliments men with grey hair have basked in for years…while women disguised their true colours. At last, the tide is turning. With excellent examples among actresses and influencers, women of all ages are proudly showing their silver linings!
“When my clients are going into the grey zone, having a groovy cut takes the focus off the colour. ‘Great haircut’ becomes their first compliment, followed by, ‘Wow, you’re embracing your grey!’”
Covid was a catalyst. Trips to the hairdresser went on hold. Grey grew out. Women began to appreciate it was not a disgrace but something to embrace.
Grey hair tends to be, or to look, coarser and to lack shine. “Hydration is important,” says Robyn, recommending treatments like masks, oils and glosses to keep grey hair sleek and healthy. Those dull yellow strands that appear in grey hair are easily banished with a lavender or violet toned shampoo.
While you may expect a hair professional to prefer colour, Robyn at Fringe says she is totally in favour of the grey way and she has some good advice. “Embrace the journey,” says Robyn, pointing out that it is a process. If going cold turkey is likely to cause an obvious grey root stripe to progress down your hair, she recommends fine foils to start breaking up the colour and camouflage it as it evolves. Get a super cool haircut is Robyn’s next slice of advice.
Robyn also suggests that going shorter works, making the greying process seem faster and adding sharp, sassy and sophisticated to your list of compliments. Grey Hair Care
Every reason to grey gracefully. As Robyn says, “Own the process and you will always look great!”
Robyn
Fringe, 12 Churchill Road, Tauranga
GET CLIMBING MAUAO AND HELP US FUNDRAISE FOR GOOD NEIGHBOUR! Climb Mauao 38 times in 50 days to raise funds for Good Neighbour with the MORE FM Mount Everest Challenge! Compete in a team or as an individual. SCAN THE QR CODE TO SIGN UP! Or go to givealittle.co.nz/event/mount-everest-challenge-2022
Follow our progress at
GoodNeighbour.co.nz
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CRUISING THROUGH THE COOLER MONTHS WITH
Vibrant Health WORDS HEIDI JENNINGS
Ah, autumn is upon us. That magical season when Mother Nature casts her warm glow over the landscape and wraps us up in comfort and introspection; a symbolic time of transition and change where we can draw breath from the hustle and bustle of those glorious summer days as the weather patterns coax us indoors.
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NOURISH
The cooler months are when we tend to become less active and find solace in comfort food. As with all living beings, we need time and space to recharge, restore and repair, but problems can arise when the scale tips too far in favour of sedentary behaviour and overindulgence in our stodgy favourites, and our physical and mental health starts to suffer. A key consideration for staying vibrant and healthy at this time of year is keeping your immune system strong, and this happens naturally when our bodies are given the correct tools and support. Beautiful whole, fresh, nutrient-dense foods, such as fruits, vegetables (especially leafy greens) and wholegrains, are your most powerful ally to fight off coughs, colds and flus. They are jampacked with the vitamins, minerals, antioxidants and water content the body needs to thrive. Fresh foods also promote beneficial gut bacteria. Given that up to 90% of our serotonin (happy hormone) is produced in the gut, we can’t overlook the importance of a healthy gut for a stable and happy mood. Ideally, our food would give us all the nutrients we need, but this isn’t always possible due to our busy lifestyles and deteriorating soil quality. In our holistic coaching practice, we see wonderful results with four key supplements: vitamin B12, liquid zinc sulfate, spirulina powder and barley grass powder. These are incredible workhorses that promote overall health and wellbeing, are antiviral, potent detoxifiers and support the liver, brain and central nervous system. At this time of year, it’s also a great idea to add lypospheric vitamin C to boost immunity. Who loves high-intensity exercise? Me neither! If you’re 25 or feeling in top shape, then sure! If not, low-intensity exercise, such as walking, is ideal. If you can manage it, walk daily for at least 20–30 minutes. Fresh air, an elevated heart rate and time to clear the head will do wonders for your physical and mental wellbeing. Deep, restful sleep is the most under-coached cornerstone of the health industry, and without it, your immune system weakens and everything else falls apart. An effective pre-bed routine will help the body wind down correctly and sleep soundly. Chamomile tea (with a piece of dairy-free dark chocolate for the sweet tooth!), a warm bath with Epsom salts, switching off electronic devices at least 30
Handmade dinners from our restaurant kitchen to your home
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H E A LT H
minutes before bed, lying flat with some light reading, and lights out by 10pm is our formula to help clients retrain their bodies for great sleep. Lastly, stress hormones in the body can manifest as physical symptoms, weaken the immune system and allow the perfect environment for disease to take hold. You must identify and address the root cause of stress to build strong immunity and move forward with optimal health and wellbeing. Changing seasons are inevitable, but the colder temperatures needn’t bring you down. Every day is a good one when you have vibrant health on your side.
HEIDI’S GREEN MONSTER SMOOTHIE This smoothie not only tastes delicious, but it’s also packed with nutrients and goodness to make your cells sparkle and insides sing! This recipe will make 1 very large serving or 2 smaller servings.
1 banana 1 handful frozen mango 1 large handful fresh spinach 1–2 tsp spirulina (available at Herbal Dispensary) 1–2 tsp barley grass powder (available at Herbal Dispensary) 1 cup coconut water 1 cup of plant-based milk of choice (rice/oat/almond/soy) splash of coconut milk (optional but will make it extra creamy) extra water to add volume (optional) Put all ingredients into a blender and blend until smooth. Serve in a tall glass.
Heidi Jennings | 0275 431 387 jenningshealthcoach.com Heidi Jennings is a holistic health coach, plant-based nutrition specialist and Amazon #1 bestselling author who empowers her clients to take control of their health and live a life they truly love.
Oscar & Otto | 51 The Strand, Tauranga 07 2827879 | oscarlovesotto@gmail.com
www.oscarandotto.co.nz
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NOURISH
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GARDENING
AUTUMN
Figs
WORDS LYNDA HALLINAN | IMAGE BRYDIE THOMPSON
Is it better to give a fig than to receive one? I suppose it depends on your tastebuds, though I'm sure most foodies would prefer to be given a bag of plump purple figs than a bucketful of free feijoas. I’m a late convert to figs. Perhaps I was scarred by childhood Christmas memories of my father, a fan of dried figs, slowly and selfishly chewing his way through a sticky round of Turkish figs before embarking on the Griffin's biscuit sampler. Fresh figs were unheard of in our household – and most other Kiwi homes of that era – but now their fast and furious fruiting season is welcomed with the sort of salivation previously reserved for the first cut of spring asparagus. The first homegrown fig I ever ate, I’m sad to say, was as underwhelming as it was underripe. I’d bought a house in Auckland with a huge old Brown Turkey tree growing out from under the front deck. Every autumn, the birds had a field day, leaving me to waterblast the sticky carcasses of hundreds of hollowed figs off the timber. Rarely did I get to enjoy an unblemished fruit, its skin a balayage of green and purple, its ambrosial flesh a dainty shade of amber-pink. Take it from me that, in a home garden setting at least, the best sort of fig tree is a tree small enough to fling bird netting over. A city friend of mine enjoys a superb annual crop from her potted 'Panache' fig tree, a novelty variety with tiger-striped fruit, but a tree espaliered against a sunny wall, its branches splayed for maximum fruiting with a minimum of fuss, also does the trick. A few summers ago, another friend gave me a bag of ripe-to-burst Brunoro Black figs. I scoffed the lot and immediately ordered my own tree to plant. This is the most popular variety in New Zealand, according to Te Mata Figs in Hawke’s Bay, and for good reason: like a Hass avocado, the skin deepens almost to black, an obvious measure of ripeness, and the flavoursome flesh turns blood-red. The fruit is also perfectly sized to wrap in prosciutto or slather with goat’s cheese and honey. In a sheltered, sunny spot with protection from hard winter frosts, figs flourish a little too enthusiastically. A small tree rapidly becomes a big tree without some attention from a pair of loppers. As figs fruit on new season’s growth, it pays to tip prune in midDecember to remove excess growth, then thin back the trees by roughly a third at the end of winter. (Rather than cutting back each branch by a third, which removes any hope of an early or breba
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crop, cut back every third branch.) Figs aren't too fussy about soil conditions, but they do need the occasional deep soak during a hot, dry summer. Mulch heavily to conserve soil moisture and keep the roots cool, as drought-stressed trees will defoliate prematurely and abort their crop before it’s ripe. I've learned this the hard way this summer, as my parched young tree produced an inaugural haul of figs the size of cocktail cherries. Never mind. I'll gently simmer them in a heavy sugar syrup, let them drip dry then make a batch of gooey-centred chocolate truffles. PLANT NOW: KOHLRABI On the eve of the first Covid-19 lockdown in 2020, a friend shared a photo of my local garden centre, showing the shelves stripped completely bare of veggie seedlings … apart from a few lonely punnets of kohlrabi. I couldn't help but feel sorry for this most underrated of bulbous brassicas, for not only is kohlrabi a damn sight easier to shred into a tasty slaw than cabbage, it’s faster and more foolproof to grow than broccoli, Brussels sprouts or cauliflowers. I suspect that the main reason Kiwi gardeners have sidelined this useful brassica is that no one knows what to do with it. White cabbage butterfly caterpillars seem to find it similarly confounding; although they'll nibble at the leaves, they leave the edible base alone. In autumn, this quirky looking vegetable swells up reliably to the size of an apple, with a topknot of kale-like foliage. Plant seedlings now or direct sow early Purple Vienna, Azure Star or the lime green Duke hybrid. They’ll be ready to harvest in 8–10 weeks, just in time for some tasty recipes you’ll find in the winter issue of Nourish.
Lynda Hallinan Waikato born-and-raised gardening journalist Lynda Hallinan lives a mostly self-sufficient life at Foggydale Farm in the Hunua Ranges, where she grows enough food to satisfy her family, free-range chooks, kunekune pig and thieving pukekos. She has an expansive organic vegetable garden and orchards and is a madkeen pickler and preserver.
NOURISH
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NUTRITION
Falling for Figs WORDS RACHEL HART
As one of the first crops to ever be cultivated, figs have long been loved for their taste, texture and nutrition. While in New Zealand they are a luxury, selling for about a dollar a pop, in the Mediterranean figs are so common they’re nicknamed the ‘poor man’s food’. Either way, the fruit boasts an almost art-like interior that is packed to the brim with healthpromoting properties. Hidden within the leathery green or purple skin are hundreds of tiny chewy seeds set amongst a vibrant pink flesh. These seeds are high in fibre and this, along with the fruit’s prebiotic properties, make the fig a superstar when it comes to supporting your digestive health. And forget milk or cheese, figs are also particularly good for your bones, containing four bonesupporting minerals: calcium, magnesium, potassium and phosphorus. With just two fresh figs making up one serving of fruit, it’s easy to dose up on plenty of nutrients when these beauties are in season. In New Zealand, we have over 70 varieties of figs coming in all sorts of shapes, sizes and colours. While they can be harvested between February and April, they’re still not widely available commercially, so you’ll have better luck sourcing the fruit if you know someone with a backyard fig tree. Better yet, plant one yourself! Figs do well in the Waikato and Bay of Plenty’s climate, making for an excellent gardening experiment. They’re hardy in winter, tolerating temperatures as low as minus ten, and thrive in the warm late summer weather our regions offer. If you’re new to the wonderful world of figs, there’s plenty that
you can do with this striking, albeit slightly intimidating, fruit. First and foremost, they are delicious on their own. Since their delicate texture means figs have an exceptionally short shelf-life, just pop one in your mouth as soon as you pluck it from the tree or pay for it at the farmer’s market. If any make it home, fresh figs make for an elegant addition to an autumn cheeseboard—slice them in half and they’ll add a splash of colour to their neighbouring cheeses and crackers. They also make for a sophisticated antipasto, simply wrap one in prosciutto for a salty-meets-sweet snack or pair them with a wedge of blue cheese, a drizzle of honey and a sprinkling of crushed walnuts. If you have your own tree or manage to get your hands on a larger quantity of them, figs make great preserves in the form of jams, chutneys and spiced preserves. When dried, figs transform from a beautiful swan into an ugly duckling. Though the shrivelled brown fruit isn’t much to look at, dried figs are tasty, healthy and far more readily available and affordable than their fresh counterpart. They work wonders in muesli, in baking or just eaten as is. There are endless ways to enjoy the beautiful and nutritious fig, just make sure you do it sooner rather than later—it’s truly a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it kind of fruit!
Rachel Hart Hailing from Canada, Rachel has fallen in love with life in the beautiful Bay of Plenty where she is a freelance writer with a passion for healthy food. She splits her time between telling people’s stories, creating web content and experimenting in the kitchen.
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RECIPES HARRIET BOUCHER | IMAGES BRYDIE THOMPSON
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NOURISH
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RECIPES
Vegan Fig Loaf with Coconut Yoghurt and Spiced Syrup This spiced fig loaf is delicious sliced and toasted, served with lashings of butter, or serve it decorated with coconut yoghurt and fresh figs like we have here.
3 cups self-raising flour
180°C for 55–60 minutes, or until a skewer comes out clean. When the loaf comes out of the oven, poke a few holes in it with a skewer and drizzle over a third of a cup of the syrup.
½ cup sugar 1 tsp cinnamon
SPICED SYRUP:
1 tsp ginger
1 cup water
½ tsp cloves
½ cup sugar
¼ tsp cardamom
½ tsp cardamom
1 cup dried figs, chopped
¼ tsp cloves
1 cup apple sauce
½ tsp cinnamon
1 cup non-dairy milk
2 star anise
½ cup neutral oil (I used sunflower)
1 tsp vanilla extract
1 tsp vanilla extract Cover the figs with boiling water and soak for 15 minutes, then strain. In a large bowl, mix together the dry ingredients. In a separate bowl, whisk together the remaining ingredients. Fold the wet mixture and figs into the dry ingredients.
Bring all ingredients to a boil and simmer until reduced by half or it becomes a thin, syrupy consistency.
TO DECORATE: Place the loaf on a serving dish. Generously spoon thick coconut yoghurt on top. Arrange about 5 quartered figs on top and finish with another drizzle of the syrup.
Pour mixture into a lined loaf tin and bake in the oven at
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Blue Cheese Panna Cotta, Fresh Figs, Honey and Pine Nuts This is a sophisticated dessert that blends both sweet and savoury. A perfect twist on a cheese platter to finish off your autumn dinner parties.
FOR THE PANNA COTTA
Whisk panna cotta mixture over a bowl of iced water (like a reverse bain marie, use lots of ice in there) until cooled and slightly thickened. This helps with even setting and makes it lighter. Pour mixture equally among prepared molds. Cover loosely and place in the fridge for 6 hours to set.
375ml (1½ cups) milk 375ml (1½ cups) cream
TO ASSEMBLE
70g (
20g pine nuts
cup) caster sugar
100g blue cheese 3 tbsp boiling water 3 tbsp powdered gelatine Spray eight 125ml (½ cup) capacity metal or plastic dariole molds with oil to lightly grease. Place on a tray. Combine milk, cream and sugar in a saucepan over medium heat. Heat mixture until almost boiling, making sure sugar is dissolved. Crumble in blue cheese and stir until melted. Place boiling water in a small heatproof bowl. Sprinkle the gelatine and whisk with a fork to remove any lumps. Make sure the gelatine has fully dissolved and isn’t grainy to touch. Add gelatine to the panna cotta mix and whisk to combine. Strain mixture through a fine sieve into a large heatproof glass bowl.
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8 figs honeycomb or 1–2 tbsp of honey thyme leaves for garnish Toast pine nuts in an oven set at 150°C for 5–7 minutes or until golden, then roughly chop. Slice figs into quarters, or eighths if figs are large. Gently tip panna cotta out in the middle of a small plate. Arrange 4 slices of figs around the panna cotta. Place a cube of honeycomb on top, alternatively, warm some honey and drizzle around the plate. Sprinkle over chopped pine nuts and garnish with some fresh thyme leaves.
Fig Salad Almost any grain will work for this salad. I love the earthy nutty flavor of freekeh though, and it’s readily available at Vetro.
a simmer. Reduce heat to low, then cover and cook for 25 minutes or until tender. Drain and refresh under cold running water.
1 cup (180g) freekeh, rinsed, drained (available at Vetro)
Preheat oven to 180°C. Arrange quartered figs on a lined baking tray. Drizzle with 2 tbsp of the honey (warm it up to make it easier to work with). Bake until bubbly, tender and slightly caramelised, about 20–25 minutes.
5 figs, quartered 3 tbsp honey ¼ cup olive oil 2 tbsp pomegranate molasses (available at Vetro or La Cave)
Bake the feta on a lined tray for 20–30 minute or until golden on the edges. Set aside to cool.
juice and zest of 1 lemon, finely grated ½ cup mint, leaves roughly torn ½ cup flat-leaf parsley, leaves roughly torn seeds of 1 pomegranate (or 1 packet of pomegranate arils) ¼ cup dried baby figs (figlets from Vetro) or currants 100g feta ¼ cup pumpkin seeds, toasted Place the freekeh and 1.5 litres (6 cups) of water in a pan over medium heat and bring to
To make the dressing, place the remaining 1 tbsp of honey, olive oil, pomegranate molasses, zest of lemon and ½ the lemon juice into a jar and shake vigorously until well combined. Add more lemon to taste. To assemble the salad, mix the freekah, herbs, dried figs, half of the feta crumbled, pomegranate seeds, pumpkin seeds and dressing together, then arrange on a platter. Scatter the honey roasted figs and the remaining crumbled feta.
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BACK TO BASICS WITH BRAD
a bumper harvest WORDS & RECIPE BRAD KING | IMAGES BRYDIE THOMPSON
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NOURISH
As we bid farewell to the final shreds of summer, the veggie garden rewards us with its autumn harvest. Here at The Falls Retreat, this means that we are busy pickling, preserving and fermenting in an attempt to capture all of nature’s goodness. In every garden there is always an excess of certain staples— beans, zucchini, cucumber, far too many to keep using for salads! As a passionate chef, I am always looking for new and interesting ways to utilise this glut of produce, and food preserving has become my new best friend. Preserving is all about capturing a seasonal moment, a wonderful way of shifting the abundance of seasonal produce and ensuring nothing you grow (or buy) goes to waste. It involves many techniques—curing, freezing, boiling, sugaring, pickling, confit and fermentation. Pickling is an easy method of food preservation that works by immersing food in an acidic solution, usually vinegar, meaning the raw product is naturally preserved—an easy solution to providing your beautiful garden produce an extended shelf life and will see you through winter hibernation when veggie gardens are less productive.
BRAD’S TOP TIPS! Use the below tips and tricks to make your pickling and preserving easier and more delicious! · Muslin and jars can be washed and reused · Ensure jars have no ridges or cracks, especially edges where lid screws on · Wide rimmed jars are easier to use i.e., Agee jars · Always use refined sugar · Many small batches yield a better result than one big batch! 3kg max at a time.
VINEGAR TIPS! · Good quality vinegar (or at least 5% acetic acid is essential for long term keeping)
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RECIPES
BISTRO CUCUMBER & ZUCCHINI PICKLE 1.5kg washed cucumber/zucchini mixed 700g onions 80g sea salt 500ml cider vinegar 350g caster sugar 4 tsp mustard seeds ½ tsp ground cloves 1 tsp ground turmeric 2 tsp coriander seeds 1 tsp cumin seeds 1 tsp chilli flakes (optional) 2 chillies (optional) 150g thinly sliced ginger Thinly slice the cucumber and zucchini. Use a mandolin if you have one. Peel and halve the onions, then thinly slice. Then toss the cucumber/ zucchini and sliced onions in salt until well combined. Using a muslin cloth, tie mixture into a bundle and hang over a drip container to allow water content to filter out (4 hours or overnight). Another technique is to place the cucumber mix into a colander over a bowl and weigh the mixture down with a plate. Combine the vinegar, sugar and spices in a suitable pot and slowly bring to the boil, stirring constantly until the sugar is completely dissolved. Rinse the cucumber mix well to get rid of the salt, slightly squeezing mixture to get rid of the moisture. Add the well-drained cucumber mixture to the vinegar/sugar solution and bring back to the boil for 1 minute. Mix well so that the spices are evenly distributed. Sterilise your jars and lids—you can do this in the dishwasher or carefully in an oven. Using a sterilised strainer over another pot, drain the cucumber mixture. Place vinegar back on the heat and bring to a simmer. Place cucumber mixture into jars using funnels, leaving a 2 cm gap to the rim of the jar. Pour boiling vinegar into each jar, leaving a ½cm headspace at the top.
· Never use an aluminium pot. The chemical reaction between the acid in the vinegar and the aluminium in the pot is not good for you. · Boil vinegars rapidly and only for as long as needed. The longer you boil vinegar, the more acetic acid evaporates, weakening the solution and losing some of its keeping properties. Boiling for longer means you also lose some of the natural colourings.
Falls Retreat | 07 863 8770 25 Waitawheta Road, Karangahake Gorge www.fallsretreat.co.nz
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W H AT I D O WITH MISO WORDS HARRIET BOUCHER | IMAGES ASHLEE DECAIRES
Miso is one of those ingredients that you buy for a recipe that you desperately want to try, make it once, and then the jar sits in the fridge staring at you, wanting you to whip it out again for its next culinary use. Here is some inspiration on how to use that jar.
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Miso has been a staple in Japanese and other Asian cultures for over 1,000 years. In brief, it’s made through fermenting soybeans, koji rice (steamed rice inoculated with a mold) and salt together for an extended period of time. Other grains can be added to the fermentation process to create different flavour profiles and the time it’s left to ferment can influence the colour and depth too.
along with olive oil before roasting them. Are you picking up on the theme that miso can turn nothing into something yet?
Miso has become wildly popular in eateries and cookbooks over the last few years. It has a moreish umami flavour that can be used both sweet and savoury. You may have seen miso popping up in recipes from the likes of Peter Gordon, who uses it in Kumara Miso Mash and Chocolate and Sweet Lemon Miso Brownie or from Yottam Ottolenghi, whose Sticky Miso Bananas with Lime and Toasted Rice is currently sweeping the internet.
Christina Tosi, a baking idol of mine, is famous for her salty sweet creations which often feature miso as an ingredient, such as her Burnt Miso Pound Cake and Miso Butterscotch Sauce. Whisk a dollop of miso into a coconut caramel for a flavour bomb on top of cakes or ice cream. Jars of miso caramel make a perfect homemade gift, or just stash it in the fridge for sweet tooth emergencies. White chocolate and miso in cookies are a match made in heaven, just imagine the smell of those fresh out of the oven.
A gateway use to spark your love for miso at home is to mix it into butter. Sauté mixed mushrooms in a miso butter to enhance the earthy umami flavour, or smear it directly on meat, seafood or vegetables. I love finishing steamed baby carrots with lashings of miso butter and a sprinkling of toasted sesame seeds for an impressive yet simple side dish. Miso soup is an iconic Japanese staple that is loved worldwide. Three quarters of the Japanese population consume miso soup at least once a day. A basic miso soup is made using dashi (Japanese vegetable broth) and miso paste, with the addition of nori. Turn this soul warming soup into a weeknight meal with the addition of some shredded chicken or cubed tofu; autumn veggies, such as carrot or mushroom; and hearty greens. The perfect soup to bring to a friend in need of some nourishing! The salty umami goodness in miso makes it the perfect addition to a dressing, glaze or marinade. Andre Da Silveira from Elizabeth Cafe in Tauranga mixes brown sugar, soy sauce, and miso together to marinate salmon. This simple Asian marinade takes pan fried salmon to the next level. He also mixes kewpie mayo with miso paste and sweet soy as a dipping sauce for his karaage chicken. Be brave, next time you are making a marinade or dressing, add in a teaspoon to enhance the flavour or mix it through your veggies
The beauty of miso is that it is forgiving; it won’t overpower your meal if you start with small amounts, it will only enhance the flavour as would salt. Take inspiration on how to use this punchy paste, you’ll start to wonder why you hadn’t utilised this ingredient sooner!
Quick ideas with miso: · Make miso butter · Whisk into caramel · Stir into soup · Brush over meats and vegetables to BBQ · Use in dressings or marinades · Balance out sweetness of baking · Add to a stir fry
Ciao from your local Mediterranean food and wine store. Autumn brings wonderful warm dishes, and we’ve got you covered. Come instore for great recipes and inspiration.
Buon appetite! ROTORUA 1131 Amohau Street, Rotorua • 07 346 0081 TAU RANG A 111 Third Avenue, Tauranga • 07 579 9111 vetro.co.nz •
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EVENTS TAURANGA FARMERS’ MARKET Where local and convenience collide. The Tauranga Farmers’ Market is on every weekend, rain, hail or shine. Saturday 8am–12noon 31 Fifth Ave, Tauranga www.tgafarmersmarket.org.nz
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ELLIOT MASON EXHIBITION Elliot Mason is a known local painter, picture framer and art technician. His artwork is a stylised representation of the natural world. Late March through April 15E Minden Road, Te Puna 3176 www.gallerytepuna.com
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FLAVOURS OF PLENTY FESTIVAL Spanning Waihī beach, Te Puke, Tauranga, Mount Maunganui, Ōhope and Whakatāne, the inaugural Flavours of Plenty festival will be a celebration of the coastal Bay of Plenty’s worldclass food scene. Art of Sourdough with Mount Sourdough A hands-on sourdough making course with the team at Mount Sourdough. April 7, 2–4pm $80 per person Mediterranean Escape (in the Western Bay of Plenty) Discover and taste incredible products from the land of plenty: enjoy a tour and tasting at both Te Puke Truffles and Mystery Valley Olive Oil, then take a seat at The Trading Post French Bistro for an intimate degustation dinner. April 7, 2.30–8.30pm $95 per person Come Dine with Pepper and Me A fun filled night at Elizabeth Café hosted by Tauranga’s one and only Cherie Metcalfe, the owner of the renowned Pepper & Me, Kit & Co, and Cain & Abel knives. April 7, 7–10.30pm $95 per person Bay to Plate A curated 5-course tasting menu with chef Perrin Yates. Food and drink inspired by local growers, brewers and vinters. April 10, 12–4pm $220 per person
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