ISSUE NO. 47 AUTUMN 2022
CINNAMON ROLLS & A TWIST
ISSUE NO. 47 AUTUMN 2022
We Fall for Figs
WAIKATO, NZ WWW.NOURISHMAGAZINE.CO.NZ
P LUS
blackberries, feijoas, pumpkins and miso
WWW.NOURISHMAGAZINE.CO.NZ
FRESH LOCAL FLAVOUR WAIKATO, NZ
“Our lifestyle has never been better!” “We’re so glad we didn’t wait till we got older to move in and enjoy the Tamahere Country Club lifestyle. It has such a community of vibrant people having fun, socialising and looking out for each other in a beautiful, secure environment. We ride the adjacent bike trails together and enjoy the local cafés. It’s a perfect base for our motorhoming but actually, with our spacious entertainer’s house and top-notch village facilities, every day’s a staycation!” Colleen & William McGrory Residents since September 2020
For sales enquiries call Sandy Turner on 0800 82 62 43 or visit our website tamaherecountryclub.co.nz
EDITOR Vicki Ravlich-Horan HEAD DESIGNER Sara Cameron, Minted Design Co. PROOF READER Nikki Crutchley (Crucial Corrections) CONTRIBUTORS Denise Irvine, Emma Galloway, Amber Bremner, Liz French, Lynda Hallinan, Kathy Paterson, David Wrigley, Harriet Boucher, Rachel Hart, Fiona Hugues COVER IMAGE Brydie Thompson PHOTOGRAPHERS Brydie Thompson, Ashlee DeCaires, Emma Galloway, Amber Bremner, Vicki Ravlich-Horan, Alex Spodyneiko, Kathy Paterson, Fiona Hugues ISSN 2324-4356 (Print) | ISSN 2324-4364 (Online) ADVERTISING ENQUIRIES Vicki Ravlich-Horan vicki@nourishmagazine.co.nz 0210651537
regular 6 7 19 43 46 51 54 62 68 74 75
Vic’s Picks News Nutrition Harriet's How To Make the Dish Gardening Herbal In Season Back To Basics Events Marketplace
features
8 11 14 24 49 52 56 70 72
Buzzing in the Bay Ernest Discovering a New Rotorua Market Regulars Hear Yeast, Hear Yeast Garden Bounty Urban Homes What I Do with Miso Flavourbomb
recipes 20 27 30 34 38 46 48 59 65 69 73
Figs Autumn Jewels Blackberries The Apple of My Eye Life's a Brunch Ultimate Cinnamon Buns Cinnamon Bun Knots Fay Good - 65 Years of Cooking Pumpkin Bistro Cucumber and Zucchini Pickle Miso Soup
“
Friends and family have asked, would you build with Urban again and, the answer is definitely yes! Absolutely! The process has been amazing. We got the home we wanted - and more! Sam and Harriet Cane
Follow their build journey at urban.co.nz 0800 MY URBAN | sales@urban.co.nz
”
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ISSUE 47
Here’s to Autumn It’s autumn and our first edition of the year, traditionally an issue where I look forward with anticipation to the year ahead and all the possibilities. But man oh man it’s tough out there. I think we are all exhausted from two full years of anxiety and uncertainty. And no one is feeling it more than our hospitality sector! Owning a business is hard work. I liken it to having a baby, until you do it, you really have no idea what’s involved and how all encompassing it is. My heart goes out to those passionate hospitality businesses that have poured their hearts and souls into their businesses only for these to be put in jeopardy, by no fault of their own, but circumstances, from ramifications of a global pandemic to government policies. Some of the statistics are scary. The Hospitality Association has quoted a figure of 58% of their members believing they will be insolvent in just 3 months. Losing half of our eateries will dramatically affect all aspects of our lives. The hospitality industry is people heavy and thus a huge employer. They are an industry that supports local, from producers, coffee roasters, wine makers and brewers, as well as many other local services, think printers, signwriters, cleaners and more. If over half our local eateries disappear so will many of these businesses.
weekend. If there is a town hit hard by Covid, this is it. But as you’ll read on page 14, there is so much to discover in this steamy town and, believe me, there is no better time than right now! On page 11 we meet Craig from Ernest, a new bar in the heart of Hamilton. And on page 64 you’ll discover what Waikato Food Inc have on to give you just a few ideas on how you can get out there and support local. Each autumn we celebrate our mums with Mother’s Day in May, and with this in mind, Fiona Hugues put together a pretty but fuss free brunch (page 38). Also with mums and grandmums in mind and, for that matter, aunties and sisters, Nourish, in collaboration with Lexus of Hamilton, are putting on a fundraising breakfast for breast cancer. See details on page 55 for this not-to-be-missed morning. Autumn is literally the most fruitful season, so in this edition we enjoy blackberries (page 30), figs (page 20) and apples (page 34). We discover what to do with miso on page 70 and Harriet puts in the hard mahi to come up with the best cinnamon roll recipe (page 43) just in time for Easter baking.
A vibrant hospitality sector is crucial when we welcome back international visitors. So I implore you to use it before we lose it! Get out there and support your local cafés and restaurants and for that matter any local business. With this in mind, we headed to Rotorua for a long
Vicki Ravlich-Horan Editor
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PLUS
EVERY SUBSCRIBER IN AUTUMN RECEIVES A GOOD BUZZ KOMBUCHA DISCOUNT CODE!
Vic's Picks BREAST CANCER BREAKFAST Join us at Lexus of Hamilton for a very special breakfast raising funds for Breast Cancer Foundation NZ. The Nourish team are donning our pinnies and creating a delicious breakfast, plus some great companies have come on board to create a wonderful goodie bag for everyone to take away. There will be a silent auction all in the hope of raising a bunch of cash for this cause that touches so many of us. Tuesday 24 May, 9.30am Tickets $65 via nourishmagazine.co.nz
CBD PROGRESSIVE DINNER Back for its fourth year, Waikato Food Inc’s CBD Progressive Dinner leads diners on a culinary journey around some of the best eateries in Hamilton Central. This fun night out is a hot ticket and always sells out fast! Wed 4 May, starting at 6pm Tickets and more info at www.waikatofoodinc.com
MAKE IT LOCAL THIS MAY The CBD Progressive Dinner is just one of the cool initiatives Waikato Food Inc have planned for the month of May, highlighting and supporting local, from instore displays to stories highlighting our producers. Plus, an Open Gate Tour is planned to give you the opportunity to meet our local growers and makers. Keep in the loop by following waikatofoodies on Facebook and Instagram
CAMBRIDGE PICKLERY MAHARANI Looking for a flavoursome pickle that’s a little different but isn’t spicy hot? Cambridge Picklery’s Maharani takes the humble aubergine and combines it with gorgeous Indian flavours, making a spicy but not hot chutney, perfect with a sharp cheddar or slathered on sandwiches. Follow The Cambridge Picklery on Facebook to find out more.
FLAVOURS OF PLENTY FESTIVAL This April the flavours of Bay of Plenty are on show at the inaugural Flavours of Plenty Festival. There are wonderful lunches, dinners, even a hāngī, behind the scenes tours, classes and more, all highlighting the wonderful food scene over the Kaimais. Discover something new, make a weekend of it and enjoy some great food. www.flavoursofplentyfestival.com
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News MEYER CHEESE MELT CHALLENGE You cheddar be ready for the region’s cheesiest challenge this April. The Meyer Cheese Melt Challenge sees local eateries create the best cheese toastie in the region, and no challenge is complete without your input. So get out there and taste your way around the entries. Details of this year’s participating eateries will be live on www.waikatofoodinc.com just before April.
THE STORE The St Kilda Store is now The Store and has moved to Alpha Street in Cambridge. Sisters Johanna and Eleanor have recreated their wonderful space selling gourmet delights and everyday treats along with those essential meal items that was in St Kilda to the heart of Cambridge.
FALLS RETREAT COFFEE CART OPENING Seven Oaks Café recently opened in the Tamahere Country Club but caters to all with a full all-day menu and kids’ menu as well as a wide range of cabinet items, ticking every dietary requirement. Follow the signs from the Tamahere Country Club entrance.
Travelling through Paeroa? Make sure you stop in at Falls Retreat’s pop up trailer which has a new home outside Goldfields Print in Paeroa. Serving Rocket coffee using Ours Truly A3 organic milk plus house made sodas and healthy and organic takeaway food, they are open Tuesday– Saturday from 7.30am.
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Buzzing in the Bay WORDS DENISE IRVINE | IMAGES BRYDIE THOMPSON
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NOURISH
The Good Buzz kombucha story began modestly in Kaikohe, in 1974. There was a bold new chapter in Wainuiomata in 2014, and it gathered pace a few years later in Tauranga. Today it is perfectly poised for major plot developments. Ryan Christensen, chief executive of Good Buzz Beverage Co, traces the history in the spacious new production premises at Tauriko, Tauranga, where the organic, handcrafted kombucha— with a distinctive fizz, tang and taste—is brewed. Ryan is proud of the new set-up: “We’ve gone from a factory of 400 square metres to 1200 square metres. We’ve tripled our footprint, expanded our staff and we’re constantly innovating.” Many things have changed at Good Buzz but Ryan says the core business stays the same, and they’re embracing the growing popularity of kombucha, or booch, the naturally fermented sparkling tea that is understood to have originated in ancient China. “We’re a true New Zealand company; our kombucha is born and brewed in New Zealand with really good ingredients. It is BioGrocertified organic and it is hand-crafted in the way Good Buzz has been doing it for decades. We make delicious drinks that support an active lifestyle and are bubbling with gut-loving bacteria.” Good Buzz was founded in Wainuiomata in 2014 by Alex and Amber Campbell, its genesis being the memorable drink with healthy properties that Alex’s grandmother Amy made for him as a child in Kaikohe. Amy called her humble booch “Manchurian Tea”, with a nod to its Chinese roots. The scoby (symbiotic colony of bacteria and yeast) she used for this is the mother scoby of all Good Buzz products today. In the earliest years in Wainuiomata, Good Buzz was an entirely hands-on affair by the Campbell family, who were involved in every task. Amber was the brewer and recipe developer, Alex ran the
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infrastructure and other family members lent a hand. It was largely sold to local cafes. In the following years, Wendy and Richard Gatward from Ōhope became co-owners, Alex and Amber Campbell moved to Tauranga, and Good Buzz relocated there too. In other changes, Bay of Plenty company Quayside Holdings is now an investor, and Lion NZ was an earlier investor. Ryan became chief executive in March last year, and the Campbells and Gatwards remain board members and owners. Ryan had met Alex and Amber Campbell at a trade show when he worked for Lion NZ; he tried Good Buzz at the show, he loved the product and the story, and the company’s commitment to local ingredients and suppliers. “Good Buzz had created something special, and it was being made in an authentic way. The overwhelming feedback on Good Buzz is its great taste. I loved how simple it was but it created a beautiful complexity. I could see the potential for growth.” Ryan brings wide experience to his role: he has worked for more than 10 years in the Fast-Moving Consumer Goods (FMCG) industry in various sales, marketing, operational and leadership roles. In 2019 he and two friends founded Izakai Bar & Eatery at Mt Maunganui, and he was co-founder of creative design agency Herd. He is still involved with Herd in his “spare time”. He started at Good Buzz in March last year with a team of five; since then he’s done a full product rebrand, introduced a range of Good Buzz kombucha cans and a new Premium series, moved factories (in early December), overseen a fresh look for the website, built a team of 10, and he’s seen online sales increase 30 per cent. He jokes, “I haven’t slept.” He steps through the new premises, purpose-built for Good Buzz: “It’s like making a big cup of tea,” he says, as he explains how the organic black tea is batch-brewed for two hours in 1000 litre stainless steel vats. The tea is from Sri Lanka and is paired with Bay of Plenty artisan spring water, organic cane sugar and organic
Fresh from our farm to your kitchen Taste the difference otaikavalleyeggs.co.nz
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New Zealand fruit extracts and freeze-dried fruits. The symbiotic culture, the scoby, resembling a giant, slippery lily pad, is added at this point and the batches are transferred to containers in a fermentation room that is rich with yeasty, fruity aromas. The batches sit (at 30°C) for two weeks, allowing generous time for the scobys to work their fermentation magic in the vats of lightly sweetened tea. They feed on the sugar, converting it into micro-nutrients and organic acids. The brews are tested regularly until they achieve Good Buzz’s prerequisite fizzy tang, then they’re filtered and bottled by Tauranga company Pure Bottling. Distribution to supermarkets, restaurants, cafes, online customers and other places is from the new Good Buzz headquarters. The Scobys are carefully stored and nurtured in the fermentation room, ready for another round. Good Buzz currently makes a core series of five tropical flavours and one natural, plus the new 250ml cans with flavours of Blueberry Peach, Pineapple Mango, and Passionfruit Guava. The Premium series showcases uniquely New Zealand tastes of Gisborne Lemon & Manuka Leaf, and Hawke’s Bay Peach & Kawakawa. The Premium booch was created by Good Buzz co-founder Amber Campbell. Premium flavours will be expanded by newly appointed head brewer Luke Miller, formerly the winemaker at Leveret Estate near Katikati. The development of the Premium and canned ranges was driven by Ryan, and he’s delighted with the results. He says Premium is a true expression of New Zealand ingredients, and the cans
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will be perfect for picnics, boat trips and similar. “They’re easy to transport and they chill in 30 minutes.” Ryan says Good Buzz is currently producing around 50,000 litres of kombucha a month. He is now looking to expand into other categories of beverages; his goal is to make Good Buzz available “in every place that you can buy a drink, so people get a healthy, delicious choice wherever they go”. Good Buzz Shop online or find a stockist at www.goodbuzz.nz Denise Irvine Denise Irvine is a born-and-bred Waikato journalist and foodwriter. Her work frequently showcases the region's talented chefs and food producers; she says we have the best of the best here.
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ERNEST EARNING HIGH PRAISE IN H A M I LT O N ’ S B A R S C E N E WORDS DAVID WRIGLEY | IMAGES ASHLEE DECAIRES
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Ernest, central Hamilton’s new late-night lounge on Alexandra Street, feels like a properly grown-up affair. It boasts expertly made, seasonal cocktails; an interesting, well thought out wine list; and a short, well-crafted menu with an emphasis on bold, simple flavours and top-quality ingredients. Unlike the majority of late-night venues in Hamilton, there is table service throughout. Servers are friendly, knowledgeable and efficient which lends Ernest an atmosphere of convivial warmth and comfort.
different that complemented what was already happening here.”
Owner Craig Loveday is brimming with enthusiasm for his first venture. Craig, a tall, amiable Englishman, will be recognisable to anyone familiar with the Waikato’s food and drink scene, having worked stints at Madam Woo’s, Mexico and, most recently, Alpino in Cambridge. Ernest is the culmination of Craig’s longheld ambition to open a venue of his own in Hamilton.
The drinks list leans into the cocktails as befits a venue named for Hemingway. The list is a collaboration between Craig and his bar team and strikes a neat balance between the classic and the innovative, from the comforting combination of elderflower and mint in the house spritz to the intriguing and adventurous prospect of popcorn-infused bourbon with wasabi.
Craig cut his teeth in the world of luxury hotels in the UK before packing it all in and booking a one-way flight to Australia. After working his way round the Northern Territories and Western Australia he made the jump across the Tasman. Upon arriving in Auckland, he immediately decided it wasn’t for him and caught a $5 bus to Hamilton. “I saw the potential straight away. I could see something was happening here and thought, this is where I’m going to open my own place.”
We slipped in early on a Wednesday, and despite it being well before peak hours, there was already the happy hum of conversation around the place. Craig and his team have done a fine job of making a fairly large space feel intimate and comfortable. We opted for a booth in the cosy inner bar rather than the livelier, street-front space.
After a few years of working in and around the Hamilton hospitality scene, in late 2021, he finally secured the premises that is now Ernest and began putting his plans into action. “I didn’t want to set up in competition with all the other great bars and restaurants around Hamilton. I wanted to do something
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Inspired by the late-night offerings of cities like London and Melbourne, Ernest (as in Ernest Hemingway in case you were wondering) provides a movable feast of sophisticated drinks and sharing plates from 4pm until late. And when we say late, we don’t mean you can still get a bowl of chips at 9pm. We mean at 11pm the kitchen is still firing on all cylinders. Head Chef Haedyn Woollaston has put together an exciting, ingredients-led menu that brings a new to dimension to Hamilton’s nightlife. There’s hanger steak with red chimichurri; king prawns with harissa and pide; oysters with cucumber granita; and Twizel-sourced, cured salmon with heritage beetroot and horseradish cream. It’s tempting to order everything.
We enjoyed an excellent plate of fried chicken thigh which came with a flavourful, creamy mayo edged with pickle and a piquant, homemade celery kimchi. A warm, fluffy flatbread was loaded with carrot hummus, an excellent, cooling labneh, toasted pumpkin seeds, and a scattering of fragrant, fresh basil leaves. From the ‘Fresh’ section of the cocktail list we ordered a Bergamot Southside, just the tonic for a muggy Hamilton
French cheese, pastries, wine and much more come in and treat yourself!
IMAGES TAKEN WHEN ERNEST WAS CLOSED - HENCE THE NO MASKS
evening, a fine balance of sweet and sour with the subtlest prickle of fragrant, bitter bergamot. Another section of the cocktail menu asks guest to ‘Trust the Bartender’, which we were happy to do. We chose tequila as our spirit, and bitter as our flavour profile and let the bartender do the rest. We were rewarded with a fine concoction of Arette Tequila, Amaro Montenegro, Campari, and Aztec chocolate bitters, served with a perfect, custom-made ice-cube embossed with the letter E.
51a Riverlea Road, Riverlea, Hamilton www.lacave.co.nz
BROUGHT TO YOU BY THE CREATORS OF HAYES COMMON
Eatery \ Catering Monday – Friday 7.30am – 3.30pm
Everything at Ernest speaks to attention to detail and a determination to provide guests with a memorable experience from the start of the evening until the early hours. From the custom-made ice cube in the cocktail, to the fresh basil with the flatbread, to the tactile, high-quality paper the drinks list is printed on, Craig’s dedication to excellence, and his and his team’s years of experience, shine through. Ernest - Late Night Lounge 30 Alexandra Street, Hamilton 3204 www.ernestnz.com
DAVID WRIGLEY David is a freelance writer based in Cambridge. His work has appeared in publications such as The Guardian and Noble Rot. He is a veteran of over 20 years in the London restaurant scene.
Sky Point Building Waikato Innovation Park
3 Melody Lane Ruakura
PH 07 981 4900 hello@weaveeatery.co.nz
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DISCOVERING A NEW
ROTORUA WORDS VICKI RAVLICH-HORAN
Dubbed Rotovegas, Rotorua is often relegated as a tourist spot, thus a town many Kiwis visit once and then tick off their list. Sitting just over an hour’s drive from Hamilton, Tauranga and Taupō, this is a town that you can enjoy as a daytrip, a long weekend, a week or more. You will easily fill that time, as this is a town that the more time you spend here the more you will discover, be it the amazing mountain biking tracks, the stunning walks or serene lakes and all they offer, the mind-blowing nature from geysers and mud pools to native birds. The thrill seekers can throw themselves off mountains, jet ride or raft rivers, and those just looking to relax will find a long list of luxury spas. So if you think you have been there, done that, think again. Rotorua has much much more to offer! We spent a long weekend in town and came home with a list of places we want to go the next time we visit, and that will be soon.
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REDWOODS ALTITUDE, IMAGE GRAEME MURRAY
FOREST FUN First up it was the Redwoods’ new Altitude Experience. If you have already done the fabulous Redwood Treewalk and looking to up the excitement level, this is for you. You’ll head higher than the original Treewalk, 7 metres higher in fact, reaching 25 metres high. Harnessed in, you’ll be guided through the redwood canopy, negotiating suspension bridges and ziplines, while learning about the Redwoods Forest, local bird species and Māori legend. If swinging from tree to tree is your jam, make sure you check out the highly awarded Canopy Tours. HOT POOLS If the Polynesian Spas have been your go-to, try something new and head out to Waikite Valley. Here pure spring water cascades into the hot pools set in a wonderful natural setting.
WAIKITE VALLEY THERMAL HOT POOLS
If getting dirty before you soak away your cares is appealing, head to Hells Gate. Here you can wander around the geothermal park (with a guide or at your own pace) discovering wild natural phenomenon including the largest hot waterfall in the Southern hemisphere. Then it’s time to get dirty and lather yourself in the sulphur rich mud before then soaking in the soothing hot pool. (A word to the wise – bring your old togs and remove all jewellery, that sulphur really soaks in!) NATURE While the theme of this trip was to do something new, we couldn’t help but revisit an old favourite - Wingspan. The Wingspan Birds of Prey Trust is to secure New Zealand birds of prey future through research-based conservation and education.
ROTORUA DUCK TOURS
Visit Thursday to Sunday at 11.30am (bookings essential) to watch and be part of the thrilling Flight of the Falcon experience. UNIQUELY ROTORUA It’s hard to miss the Rotorua Duck Tours’ distinct amphibious WWII landing crafts as they drive through town and then into the PAGE 15 | WWW.NOURISHMAGAZINE.CO.NZ
REDWOODS TREEWALK
lakes. We joined them on their entertaining two-hour Tarawera Lakes Tour. Our tour guide was entertaining and informative as we waddled through town and then into the local lakes for a unique view. I highly recommend this fun way to see Rotorua. BY NIGHT With more than enough to keep you busy during the day, you might think the nights are a good time to relax. This town has other ideas, with a number of unique night-time experiences offering you something new and to ensure you can pack as much as possible into your stay. We’ve all zoomed down the hill on a luge, but have you tried it at night-time? The Redwoods walk is a must do. And once you have experienced the magnificence of these trees during the day, you must do it at night when they are lit up with David Trubridge lanterns. Recently a new nine-metre tall Lantern installation, Rakuraku Lantern was added to the line-up. This, the largest project Trubridge has worked on, immerses the public as they walk through the structure.
Now available in 4 pack 250ml cans! ORGANIC KOMBUCHA BORN AND BREWED IN NEW ZEALAND CHECK US OUT www.goodbuzz.nz @goodbuzznz
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At the forefront of Rotorua tourism, pre-Covid, Te Puia would see up to 8,000 visitors through their gates daily in peak season. That number is now often less than 100. This is heart-breaking! But never again will you have the opportunity to experience Te Puia without the crowds. While many Kiwis will have been to Te Puia at some stage, I implore you to go again, and the Geyser by Night experience is the perfect reason. We met our guide, Manaaki, just before eight pm to explore the park after dark, while hearing the history and stories of Te Puia and even sampling some steamed pudding cooked in one of the hot pools. On the night we visited the park’s famous Pōhutu, the Southern hemisphere’s largest active geyser, it decided not to come out and play. Perhaps just another reason for us to visit again, and it definitely did not take away from the experience of having the park to ourselves under the starlight. STAY We stayed at the fairly new Pullman Hotel. This, the first five-star hotel in the Bay of Plenty, opened just a few short months before New Zealand went into lockdown and all international visitors
WINGSPAN
TE PUIA MEKONG BUFFALO
dried up. This impressive hotel is conveniently located in the heart of the city, just a block from Eat Street and a very short walk to the lakefront. With well-appointed rooms and location on its side, it is actually the friendly and amenable staff that will be the highlight of your stay. EAT This was hands down the best eating experience in Rotorua I have had. This town, which usually caters for hordes of tourists, has always been known for other things than good food. Don’t get me wrong, there have always been some gems, Scope Café is one good example. Part of what makes Scope Café so great is their consistently great offering, both food and service. This is recognised not just by their awards but their community of loyal customers, and this is what has made them stand out from other establishments after the tourist buck. If there is ever a silver lining from the last two years, this might be it for Rotorua. In the last six months the town has seen half a dozen new eateries open, and to survive, these all have to be good, as they need the locals to love them.
BARREL & CO
Barrel and Co The Pullman Hotel’s restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, offering a modern bistro experience. Opening out onto Arawa Street, this is a space welcoming to both the public and inhouse guests. Executive Chef Ryan Arboleda has a career that spans some of the top restaurants and hotels in New Zealand as well as Dubai and
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Thailand. His menu has a strong focus on the seasons and local ingredients. Mekong Buffalo Opening in December last year, Mekong Buffalo is owned by Betty Phan and her partner who also own Saigon ‘60s, a Vietnamese takeaway just a block away. Betty, who is originally from Vietnam, came to New Zealand to study biotechnology at the University of Auckland. She moved to Rotorua to work at Scion, and Saigon ’60s was her first venture into hospitality. With Mekong Buffalo, Betty says she “wanted to focus more on the customer experience and create something fun and creative” – hence Asian fusion cuisine. Fusion is a fine line between creative genius and confusion, but the dishes we tried were definitely not confused, even if they did take from several cuisines. Betty says with a multicultural team, led by Japanese chef Takehiro Iwata, “we can go as crazy and be as creative as we want with all the Asian fusion ideas.” Eastwood If you’re heading to the Redwoods for a walk or ride, make sure you start or finish at Eastwood, hidden down the end of the road amongst the Scion Research Centre. Expect great food from the team that are Rotorua’s top caterers and behind eateries like Terrace Kitchen. Expect a cabinet full of tempting delights, an allday brunch menu and woodfired pizza from 11am daily as well as on Friday and Saturday nights. Poco The newly opened Poco is located up some steep stairs at 1183 Arawa Street. We popped in for a quick pre-dinner drink and nibble but would have easily stayed longer. The drinks list requires more exploring, and the food was delicious. If we lived in Rotorua, I’d be making this my local! Much more! Sadly, there is only so much eating you can do in one weekend! Here is a list of places on our list to check out next time we visit. Ani’s Gin Bar & Tapas, 1161 Amohau Street – This spot came highly recommended on social when we asked for must visits. Fainting Goat, 1154 Tutanekai Street – This looks like a great spot to grab a beer and share a platter with a group of friends. El Mexicano Zapata, 1148 Tutanekai Street – This came highly
recommended by the concierge at the hotel. Guidough’s, 53/2 Springfield Road & 139 Ranolf Street – We popped into Boaster Coffee on Haupapa Street for a caffeine fix and were tempted by the cinnamon buns on the counter which were amazing. It turns out these are baked by Guidough's who have two bakeries in town, so we will be heading there next visit for sure. DRIVE As we are trying something new, what better car than the brand new all electric car (UX300e) from Lexus to get us there and around. This was my first time driving an electric car and I was super impressed. It naturally comes with all the bells and whistles and then some, but it was the smooth ride and instant power that really made it stand out. With a full charge under the hood we had a 360km range, more than enough to get us to and from Rotorua. Or if you planned on more tiki touring around like we did, it can be recharged with a DC fast charger in just 60 minutes or, as we did, overnight at the hotel. Test drive it for yourself at Lexus of Hamilton, 5 Kahu Crescent, Te Rapa Park, Hamilton
A WONDERFUL ROTORUA GETAWAY FOR TWO WITH LEXUS Travel in style in the fully electric Lexus UX300e and experience a couple of amazing days in Rotorua including:
· Two nights’ accommodation in a Superior Room at Pullman Rotorua for two · entry for two adults to the Redwoods Treewalk · Voucher for two for The Hells Gate Experience · Voucher for two for Geyser By Night by Te Puia
Enter at www.nourishmagazine.co.nz
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Falling for Figs WORDS RACHEL HART
As one of the first crops to ever be cultivated, figs have long been loved for their taste, texture and nutrition. While in New Zealand they are a luxury, selling for about a dollar a pop, in the Mediterranean figs are so common they’re nicknamed the ‘poor man’s food’. Either way, the fruit boasts an almost art-like interior that is packed to the brim with healthpromoting properties. Hidden within the leathery green or purple skin are hundreds of tiny chewy seeds set amongst a vibrant pink flesh. These seeds are high in fibre and this, along with the fruit’s prebiotic properties, make the fig a superstar when it comes to supporting your digestive health. And forget milk or cheese, figs are also particularly good for your bones, containing four bonesupporting minerals: calcium, magnesium, potassium and phosphorus. With just two fresh figs making up one serving of fruit, it’s easy to dose up on plenty of nutrients when these beauties are in season. In New Zealand, we have over 70 varieties of figs coming in all sorts of shapes, sizes and colours. While they can be harvested between February and April, they’re still not widely available commercially, so you’ll have better luck sourcing the fruit if you know someone with a backyard fig tree. Better yet, plant one yourself! Figs do well in the Waikato and Bay of Plenty’s climate, making for an excellent gardening experiment. They’re hardy in winter, tolerating temperatures as low as minus ten, and thrive in the warm late summer weather our regions offer. If you’re new to the wonderful world of figs, there’s plenty that
you can do with this striking, albeit slightly intimidating, fruit. First and foremost, they are delicious on their own. Since their delicate texture means figs have an exceptionally short shelf-life, just pop one in your mouth as soon as you pluck it from the tree or pay for it at the farmer’s market. If any make it home, fresh figs make for an elegant addition to an autumn cheeseboard—slice them in half and they’ll add a splash of colour to their neighbouring cheeses and crackers. They also make for a sophisticated antipasto, simply wrap one in prosciutto for a salty-meets-sweet snack or pair them with a wedge of blue cheese, a drizzle of honey and a sprinkling of crushed walnuts. If you have your own tree or manage to get your hands on a larger quantity of them, figs make great preserves in the form of jams, chutneys and spiced preserves. When dried, figs transform from a beautiful swan into an ugly duckling. Though the shrivelled brown fruit isn’t much to look at, dried figs are tasty, healthy and far more readily available and affordable than their fresh counterpart. They work wonders in muesli, in baking or just eaten as is. There are endless ways to enjoy the beautiful and nutritious fig, just make sure you do it sooner rather than later—it’s truly a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it kind of fruit!
Rachel Hart Hailing from Canada, Rachel has fallen in love with life in the beautiful Bay of Plenty where she is a freelance writer with a passion for healthy food. She splits her time between telling people’s stories, creating web content and experimenting in the kitchen.
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RECIPES HARRIET BOUCHER | IMAGES BRYDIE THOMPSON
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RECIPES
Vegan Fig Loaf with Coconut Yoghurt and Spiced Syrup This spiced fig loaf is delicious sliced and toasted, served with lashings of butter, or serve it decorated with coconut yoghurt and fresh figs like we have here.
3 cups self-raising flour ½ cup sugar 1 tsp cinnamon 1 tsp ginger ½ tsp cloves ¼ tsp cardamom 1 cup dried figs, chopped 1 cup apple sauce 1 cup non-dairy milk ½ cup neutral oil (I used sunflower) 1 tsp vanilla extract Cover the figs with boiling water and soak for 15 minutes, then strain.
NOW ROASTING FROM OUR NEW PREMISES ON ALEXANDRA STREET
In a large bowl, mix together the dry ingredients. In a separate bowl, whisk together the remaining ingredients. Fold the wet mixture and figs into the dry ingredients. Pour mixture into a lined loaf tin and bake in the oven at 180°C for 55–60 minutes, or until a skewer comes out clean. When the loaf comes out of the oven, poke a few holes in it with a skewer and drizzle over a third of a cup of the syrup.
SPICED SYRUP:
1 cup water ½ cup sugar ½ tsp cardamom ¼ tsp cloves ½ tsp cinnamon 2 star anise 1 tsp vanilla extract Bring all ingredients to a boil and simmer until reduced by half or it becomes a thin, syrupy consistency.
TO DECORATE: Place the loaf on a serving dish. Generously spoon thick coconut yoghurt on top. Arrange about 5 quartered figs on top and finish with another drizzle of the syrup.
FREE DELIVERY ON ALL WAIKATO ORDERS & NORTH ISLAND SUBSCRIPTION ORDERS WWW.DIESELCOFFEE.CO.NZ
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Blue Cheese Panna Cotta, Fresh Figs, Honey and Pine Nuts This is a sophisticated dessert that blends both sweet and savoury. A perfect twist on a cheese platter to finish off your autumn dinner parties.
FOR THE PANNA COTTA
Whisk panna cotta mixture over a bowl of iced water (like a reverse bain marie, use lots of ice in there) until cooled and slightly thickened. This helps with even setting and makes it lighter. Pour mixture equally among prepared molds. Cover loosely and place in the fridge for 6 hours to set.
375ml (1½ cups) milk 375ml (1½ cups) cream
TO ASSEMBLE
70g (
20g pine nuts
cup) caster sugar
100g blue cheese 3 tbsp boiling water 3 tbsp powdered gelatine Spray eight 125ml (½ cup) capacity metal or plastic dariole molds with oil to lightly grease. Place on a tray. Combine milk, cream and sugar in a saucepan over medium heat. Heat mixture until almost boiling, making sure sugar is dissolved. Crumble in blue cheese and stir until melted. Place boiling water in a small heatproof bowl. Sprinkle the gelatine and whisk with a fork to remove any lumps. Make sure the gelatine has fully dissolved and isn’t grainy to touch. Add gelatine to the panna cotta mix and whisk to combine. Strain mixture through a fine sieve into a large heatproof glass bowl.
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8 figs honeycomb or 1–2 tbsp of honey thyme leaves for garnish Toast pine nuts in an oven set at 150°C for 5–7 minutes or until golden, then roughly chop. Slice figs into quarters, or eighths if figs are large. Gently tip panna cotta out in the middle of a small plate. Arrange 4 slices of figs around the panna cotta. Place a cube of honeycomb on top, alternatively, warm some honey and drizzle around the plate. Sprinkle over chopped pine nuts and garnish with some fresh thyme leaves.
Fig Salad Almost any grain will work for this salad. I love the earthy nutty flavor of freekeh though, and it’s readily available at Vetro.
1 cup (180g) freekeh, rinsed, drained (available at Vetro) 5 figs, quartered 3 tbsp honey ¼ cup olive oil 2 tbsp pomegranate molasses (available at Vetro or La Cave) juice and zest of 1 lemon, finely grated
Place the freekeh and 1.5 litres (6 cups) of water in a pan over medium heat and bring to a simmer. Reduce heat to low, then cover and cook for 25 minutes or until tender. Drain and refresh under cold running water. Preheat oven to 180°C. Arrange quartered figs on a lined baking tray. Drizzle with 2 tbsp of the honey (warm it up to make it easier to work with). Bake until bubbly, tender and slightly caramelised, about 20–25 minutes. Bake the feta on a lined tray for 20–30 minute or until golden on the edges. Set aside to cool.
½ cup mint, leaves roughly torn ½ cup flat-leaf parsley, leaves roughly torn seeds of 1 pomegranate (or 1 packet of pomegranate arils) ¼ cup dried baby figs (figlets from Vetro) or currants 100g feta ¼ cup pumpkin seeds, toasted
To make the dressing, place the remaining 1 tbsp of honey, olive oil, pomegranate molasses, zest of lemon and ½ the lemon juice into a jar and shake vigorously until well combined. Add more lemon to taste. To assemble the salad, mix the freekah, herbs, dried figs, half of the feta crumbled, pomegranate seeds, pumpkin seeds and dressing together, then arrange on a platter. Scatter the honey roasted figs and the remaining crumbled feta.
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JASON AND DANA HUSSEY BUY EGGS FROM MIKE ALEXANDER OF ROTO-O-RANGI FREE RANGE EGGS
ANNELISE KEANE (CENTRE) AND MOTHER JUDY KEANE CHECK OUT SOME SWEET TREATS AT YOUR BAKER.
Market
regulars WORDS DENISE IRVINE | IMAGES ALEX SPODYNEIKO
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DALE KAHAKI AND SON REED PICK UP THEIR FYERS' WATERMELONS.
Sometimes when Heather Taylor serves dinner at home, she’ll say to her husband John, “Everything on the plate is from the farmers’ market.” It could be fish, baby carrots, beans, broccoli and potatoes, and it sounds as pretty as a picture. Heather is a regular at Cambridge Farmers’ Market. She shops each Saturday for the week ahead, stocking up with fish, vegetables, meat, jam, pies, eggs and more. “It’s just a routine; I’ve got my list, money and shopping bags. I love the laidback atmosphere, and the feeling of community.” She especially likes the produce from Pirongia Mountain Vegetables: “Their broccoli and baby cauliflowers are beautiful.” Heather missed the market when it couldn’t operate during the various Covid-19 lockdowns, and on occasions she drove out to Roto-o-rangi, near Cambridge, to buy free-range eggs from stallholder Mike Alexander. Nothing else is as good as market produce, she says. She appreciates the spray-free ethos that abounds, and also knowing that the vegetables she cooks each night are grown locally. “The market does a really good job.” It’s a comment echoed many times on this weekend of asking the “shop local” loyalists what brings them back to the sister farmers’ markets at Cambridge (Saturdays at Victoria Square) and Hamilton (Sundays at Claudelands Events Centre). High on the list of answers are sustainable practices, authenticity, great people and produce. Judy Keane and daughter Annelise Keane are Claudelands’
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PAUL COWEN HAS PEPPERS ON HIS LIST.
supporters and today they’ve got bags of vegetables – lettuce, zucchini, garlic chives, cucumber – and a few extra treats. Like Heather, they love the spray-free produce, the variety of goods, and the friendly feeling among stallholders and customers. Annelise says the market is very affordable, everything is fresh and it is all in season. “Being able to talk with growers or producers is really good, too. They know their products so well, and different ways of using them. Having this available every weekend is awesome.” Annelise makes pesto with basil from The Lettuce Man, she likes Suncakes Gardens’ vegetables, and artisan goods such as coffee from Manuka Brothers, cheese from Over the Moon and Dream Cheese, handcrafted chocolate from Fruney, and meat from Soggy Bottom Holdings. Her mother Judy also enjoys Volare bread’s baked goods, seedlings from Mrs Greenjeans Seedlings, and today they’re checking out goodies at Your Baker, a recent addition to the Claudelands line-up. “Pretty much everything is amazing,” says Annelise. “And we like how they have managed the Covid-19 situation so well, at all the different levels. There has been a structure and it’s been very consistent.” Another Claudelands regular, Paul Cowen, is shopping for himself and his wife. Paul eats with the Waikato seasons, he grows most of his own vegetables and he tops up at the market. On his list today are peppers, sweet-corn, garlic, milk and coffee beans. Sometimes he’ll add a little extra: “I’ll see something like the blueberries, they are a really good buy.” And he likes the local honey.
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DAN GOTHORP, JING CHEN AND CHILDREN PHOENIX AND COOPER WITH JONO WALKER OF SOGGY BOTTOM HOLDINGS.
THE HOLY CREPE! STALL IS ALWAYS POPULAR.
Paul is a former market gardener, and he understands the effort that vegetable growers put into their work. “They have a passion for what they do. They get up early to be here, and if you looked at their hourly rate, there’s nothing in it for them. But you can’t buy the satisfaction of growing healthy, spray-free vegetables. And these vegetables are one hundred per cent healthy.” Dana and Jason Hussey say they’re not super-regulars. But they like supporting local; they live within walking distance of Claudelands so they pop in when they need extras. They’ve shopped this morning at the Volare stall and they’re lining up for Roto-o-rangi Free Range Eggs from Mike Alexander. They buy a dozen of his beauties, drop off a couple of empty egg cartons, and they’re disappointed to hear that Mike – a market stalwart, loved by many – is retiring. Across the aisle, Mark Fyers is selling his father Clif’s watermelons; he runs the stall in the melon season from January to March, and customers are lining up for this seasonal specialty. The melons (red and yellow) are grown by Clif in Coroglen, on the Coromandel Peninsula, but before that he was in Ngāruawāhia and that’s where loyal melon man Dale Kahaki first bought them. Dale’s come to Claudelands today with son Reed, 11, to pick up his weekly order of five watermelons. He discovered Fyers’ melons about 10 years back when he saw a trailerload of them for sale on the side of the road at Ngāruawāhia. Dale is a police officer and he says he stopped his patrol car, bought a couple of melons, and he’s been hooked ever since.
when he couldn’t pick them up himself. “There are no other melons equal to what these guys do. And they’re good roosters, good people. I text them each week to put five aside for me, and I usually give one away. I love them. They’re a highlight.” Dale’s top tips for eating melons: “They’ve got to be chilled, and I always eat the pips. Life’s too short to cut out the pips.” Everyone I talk to has their favourite stalls and stories, like Jing Chen and Dan Gothorp, and children Phoenix, 9, and Cooper, 7, who are heading for Soggy Bottom for meat and tasty handmade pies from Jono Walker. “He has such a good selection,” says Jing. The family also buys Manuka Brothers’ coffee, vegetables from Suncakes, organic blueberries (Monavale), and treats from the likes of Mavis and Holy Crepe. And after Labour Weekend they are regulars for Kane’s Strawberries. They find the food very affordable and also mention the appeal of spray-free produce. They also like buying from family owned businesses. Says Jing: “It feels great to put this on the table for the kids.” Which seems like the best kind of endorsement. The markets are always on the lookout for new stallholders, especially with fresh seasonal produce and fruits. Check the 'Join' page on the market website for more details. www.waikatofarmersmarkets.co.nz
He has developed a solid relationship with Clif and Mark. When he became ill a few years ago with lymphoma, they made sure he got his seasonal supply; Dale says they even dropped melons off to him
Every weekend 8 am- midday S AT U R D AY Cambridge Farmers' Market Victoria Square
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S U N DAY Hamilton Farmers' Market
The Barn, Claudelands Events Centre
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AUTUMN JEWELS -
Feijoa RECIPES & IMAGES KATHY PATERSON
Fortunately feijoas freeze well cut and scooped, but there is nothing quite like eating them fresh or freshly cooked. I’ve been swapping buckets of limes for feijoas, and I’m now having fun using them up.
Recipe on Page 29
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Roasted Feijoa and Lime Shortcake Make this shortcake a few times, then you will be able to do it with your eyes shut. The texture is perfectly short and the jam-like feijoa filling is wonderful.
SERVES 6
125g butter, softened ½ cup icing sugar 1 free-range egg 1 cup plain flour pinch of salt ¼ cup cornflour 1 tsp baking powder 1 quantity of recipe for roasted feijoas icing sugar for sprinkling 1 lime Heat the oven to 180°C. Lightly grease a shallow enamel pie dish or similar.
Add the egg and beat well. Sift in the flour, a pinch of salt, cornflour and baking powder and fold in. Turn out onto a floured bench and roll into a ball. Press two-thirds of the dough into the dish until evenly spread. The dough is quite sticky so flour your hands to press dough in or use the back of a metal spoon. Spoon cooled feijoas over the base, leaving any excess juice behind. Break remaining dough into small pieces and put on top, then gently press them down. The pieces of dough will spread together during baking. Put in the oven and bake for 25–30 minutes until golden. Remove from the oven and leave to cool a little before sprinkling with icing sugar. Finely grate the zest of the lime over the shortcake. Serve with yoghurt, whipped cream or ice cream.
Beat the butter and icing sugar together until light and creamy.
Easy Feijoa Tart Tip – while you have the oven on, use leftover pastry trimmings to make a few cheese straws.
My go-to pudding if I need one in a hurry and you can vary the fruit to fit the season. Make an egg wash by lightly whisking just the yolk and a teaspoon of cold water together—this gives a gorgeous, dark honey colour to your cooked pastry.
SERVES 4
250g pre-rolled butter puff pastry (I used Paneton pastry available at Vetro), thawed 5–6 large feijoas egg wash for brushing 2 tbsp caster sugar, for sprinkling 1 lime yoghurt, cream or ice cream for serving Heat the oven to 200°C. Line a baking tray with baking paper. Cut a 20cm disc from the prerolled pastry and put on the prepared tray. Make a shallow
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cut (ensuring you don’t cut all the way through), about 5mm from the edge of the pastry in a circle. You are essentially making a frame around the disc of pastry, which aerates the pastry so it puffs during cooking to give you an edge. Prick the pastry within the frame with a fork, then brush the entire top of the pastry with egg wash. Put in the fridge to firm up. Meanwhile, peel and slice the feijoas. Remove the pastry disc from the fridge and arrange the sliced feijoas on the pastry, again within the frame, overlapping each piece slightly. Sprinkle with the sugar. Put in the oven and bake for 20–30 minutes until feijoas soften and the pastry is a dark honey colour and crisp. Remove from the oven and finely grate over the zest of the lime. Cut into slices and serve with yoghurt, cream or ice cream.
Poached Feijoas with Yoghurt Cream, Granola Sprinkle and Chocolate Shavings SERVES 4 GRANOLA SPRINKLE
ginger or cinnamon and a pinch of salt in a bowl and mix well. Melt the butter then stir in the maple syrup. Pour over the oat mixture and stir to combine. Beat the egg white until soft peaks form then fold through the oat mixture. Spoon onto the prepared tray and spread evenly. Put in the oven and cook until golden and toasted, 20–30 minutes. Leave to cool for 10 minutes before breaking apart. Store in an airtight container.
1 cup quick-cook rolled oats or use puffed rice ½ cup whole almonds, roughly chopped ¼ cup raw cashew nuts, roughly chopped ¼ cup coconut chips 1 tbsp white sesame seeds 1 tbsp chia seeds ½ tsp ground ginger or ground cinnamon pinch of salt 25g butter 1 tbsp maple syrup 1 large free-range egg white POACHED FEIJOAS, CREAM AND CHOCOLATE SHAVINGS
8 large feijoas, peeled and sliced or halved, flesh scooped out with a teaspoon 2 tbsp sugar for sprinkling or more to taste
To poach the feijoas, put the prepared feijoas in a saucepan, sprinkle with the sugar and add 2 good splashes of cold water. Cover with a lid and put over medium-low heat. Poach gently until tender, shaking the saucepan a couple of times. To serve, gently fold together the whipped cream and yoghurt.
Roasted Feijoas Try roasting feijoas, it’s a great way to preserve them for a few days.
Arrange the poached feijoas in 4 shallow serving bowls or on plates and add a good spoonful of the yoghurt cream. Sprinkle with some granola.
If you are using roasted feijoas for the shortcake recipe, then finely grate the zest of the lime before juicing.
Put the chocolate on a board with the flat side uppermost. Drag the blade of a large sharp knife from the top edge, down towards the bottom edge to cut very thin shavings of chocolate. As you cut shavings, sprinkle on top of the desserts.
12 large feijoas, halved, flesh scooped out with a teaspoon juice of 1 lime (use a juicy lime) ½ cup sugar
½ cup cream, whipped ½ cup plain yoghurt 250g block white chocolate To make the granola, heat the oven to 170°C. Line a shallow baking tray with baking paper. Put the oats, nuts, coconut chips, seeds,
Heat the oven to 200°C.
Tip – you will not use a lot of the chocolate, so wrap well and store for other uses. Roasted feijoas would work well in this pudding too. Change up the presentation and serve layered in individual glasses.
Kathy Paterson Kathy Paterson is a recipe developer, food stylist and photographer. A plentiful herb garden and a trial and error vegetable garden give Kathy the starting place for her recipes along with her love of the classics with a modern twist. www.kathypaterson.co.nz
Put the feijoas in an ovenproof dish (or line a baking tray with baking paper) large enough so they more or less sit in a single layer. Drizzle over the lime juice then sprinkle over the sugar. Put in the oven and roast for 20 minutes or until the feijoas take on a golden colour and have a subtle jam or marmalade aroma. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool. Roasted feijoas will keep in the fridge for a few days.
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While blackberries are almost impossible to buy in the freezer section of the supermarket, you will find them at Vetro. Knowing where you can buy frozen is important, as finding fresh blackberries for sale is nigh on impossible, yet they literally grow on the side of the road, free for the picking. Trust me, once you start looking you’ll see them everywhere. But beware, they’re a thorny bunch and you might pay the price for scrambling for that dark bunch just out of reach.
Autumnal Pork Loin Salad with Blackberry Chutney By the time autumn rolls around most of us are a little over salads. This one might just help you fall back in love with them as it combines some of the best autumnal flavours. Opt for a mesclun mix of salad leaves or bitter peppery leaves like rocket.
1 tbsp butter 2 large shallots, thinly sliced (or half a red onion) ¼ cup sherry vinegar ¼ cup brown sugar 2 cups blackberries salt and pepper 1x 500g pork tenderloin 2 tbsp oil
1 apple, julienned 1 cup fennel bulb, thinly sliced 100g blue cheese In a small saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat and sauté the shallots until tender. Add the vinegar, brown sugar, and 1½ cups blackberries. Cook until mixture is syrupy and some of the berries have collapsed, around 10 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Meanwhile, season pork with salt and pepper. In a heavy based pan, heat the oil and then sear the pork, turning every five minutes until golden brown all over and cooked through. Allow the pork to rest for at least five minutes before slicing. While the pork is resting, make the salad by tossing the salad greens together with the remaining blackberries, fennel and apple. Place on a large platter, top with the sliced pork and drizzle over the blackberry chutney. Finally crumble over the blue cheese and serve.
2–3 cups salad greens
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Blackened Berry Chicken 500g blackberries ¼ cup water 1 tbsp white wine vinegar 1 tbsp brown sugar 1 tbsp wholegrain mustard 6 chicken thighs, bone in, skin on Combine blackberries, water, vinegar and sugar in a small saucepan. Simmer, mashing occasionally, until liquid is reduced (approx. 20 minutes). Stir in the wholegrain mustard. Pat the chicken dry with a paper towel, season with salt and black pepper. Grill or bake skin-side up, for 15 minutes. Baste with some of the glaze and continue to cook, basting occasionally, until cooked through, a further 15–20 minutes. Serve with remaining glaze.
Peach & Blackberry Crumble Make the most of late season peaches with fresh blackberries in this free form crumble.
¾ cup flour ¼ cup brown sugar 1 tsp ground ginger ½ tsp cinnamon 100g butter, chilled, chopped ½ cup slivered almonds 4–6 peaches (Golden Queen are my favourite) 2 cups fresh blackberries Mix the flour, sugar and spices in a large bowl. Use your fingertips to rub in the butter until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Stir in the slivered almonds. Cut the peaches in half and remove the stone. Place in a deep baking dish along with the blackberries. Scatter over the crumble and bake at 180°C for 20–30 minutes or until the crumble is golden and the peaches are tender. Serve with vanilla ice cream and enjoy!
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Blackberry & Apple Crumble Cake Blackberries and new season apples are a wonderful combination. If you can’t find Granny Smith apples, opt for a tarter variety than the modern sweet apples. This cake is a delicious afternoon treat served with a dollop of cream but equally delicious for dessert with a scoop of vanilla ice cream or, as my husband would insist, custard. CRUMBLE
1 cup sugar
½ cup sugar
2 eggs
½ cup flour ½ cup ground almonds
1 cup flour ¾ cup ground almonds
½ tsp salt
1 tsp baking powder
50g butter, chilled and chopped into cubes
¼ tsp baking soda
½ tsp salt ½ cup sour cream
CAKE
115g butter, soft
2 cups blackberries 2 Granny Smith apples, peeled and sliced
For the crumble: Mix together sugar, flour, ground almonds and salt in a bowl. Work in butter until mixture is crumbly. Refrigerate until ready to use. For the cake: Grease and line a 23cm cake tin. Cream the butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating well between each addition. Fold in the dry ingredients and sour cream until flour is just incorporated. Pour the cake batter into the cake tin and top with the apple slices and blackberries. Scatter the crumble on top and bake at 180°C until a toothpick inserted in the centre comes out clean, approx. an hour – an hour and a quarter.
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THE
APPLE OF MY EY E RECIPES & IMAGES AMBER BREMNER
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Autumn might be my favourite season, with its clear but cool days, colourful leaves underfoot, and of course the plentiful fresh produce. New season apples are harvested from February and are at their best through autumn, before they’re cool stored to supply supermarkets for the rest of the year. Branch out from apple crumble and try them in this crunchy salad or silken dessert.
APPLE AND BAY LEAF CREAMS
These layered desserts are fragrant with the heady scent of bay leaves, typically used in savoury dishes for their subtle peppery warmth. They also pair beautifully with apple and lemon, adding a little complexity to this otherwise quite simple recipe. Get your hands on some fresh bay leaves, if you can, for the best flavour. Agar-agar powder (available from Vetro)is a flavourless, plant-based alternative to gelatin, used to set the dessert. APPLE LAYER
2 Granny Smith apples ½ cup water 2 tbsp sugar 1 tbsp lemon juice 1 bay leaf
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RECIPES
3 tbsp sugar 2 bay leaves 1 strip of lemon zest 1 tsp vanilla extract ½ tsp agar-agar powder - available at Vetro Peel, core and dice apples. Add to a saucepan with water, sugar, lemon juice and a bay leaf. Cook over medium-low heat for 10–15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until tender, but still with some texture. Discard the bay leaf and spoon the apple mixture evenly into four small jars or ramekins. For the cream layer, add everything to a saucepan and stir to combine over mediumlow heat. Simmer for five minutes, stirring often, to activate the agar-agar. Discard the bay leaves and lemon zest, then pour evenly over the apple layer in your jars or ramekins. Pop in the fridge for an hour to set, or make them ahead of time. These desserts will keep, covered, for up to three days in the fridge.
CREAM LAYER
1 can coconut milk (400ml) ½ cup apple juice
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APPLE, FENNEL AND CELERY SALAD
Crunchy, sweet and tangy with gentle warmth, this salad is a crowd pleaser. Use sweet, crisp apples like Pacific Rose or Pink Lady. Aleppo pepper flakes (available from Vetro) are mild with a little bright fruitiness that match perfectly here. I recommend seeking them out (they’re excellent sprinkled over just about everything), otherwise substitute with a small pinch of cayenne pepper. Leave out the croutons if you’re gluten free. DRESSING
1 small fennel
3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
a few handfuls of dark leafy greens
1 tbsp apple cider vinegar 1 tbsp lemon juice 1 tsp Aleppo pepper flakes - available at Vetro ½ tsp Dijon mustard ½ tsp sugar ¼ tsp ground black pepper ¼ tsp salt SALAD
½ cup walnuts 2 thick slices sourdough, crusts removed and torn into small pieces 1 clove garlic, peeled olive oil 4 celery sticks 1 apple, cored 1 small red onion, or 1–2 shallots
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Put dressing ingredients into a small jar or sealed container and shake to combine. Toast walnuts in a frypan over medium heat, with a little olive oil, until golden and fragrant. Season with a little salt and set aside on a plate to cool. In the same pan, add a splash more oil, the torn bread and one clove of garlic. Stir or toss until the bread is golden and crisp, discard garlic and set croutons aside to cool. Thinly slice celery, apple, red onion and fennel (use a mandolin for the fennel if you have one). Toss together with the dressing, toasted walnuts and croutons, then arrange over a bed of dark leafy greens (I used baby kale). The salad can be made ahead of time (and makes great leftovers the next day), just add the croutons at the last minute so they stay crunchy.
Amber Bremner Quite Good Food www.quitegoodfood.co.nz Amber Bremner is the author of popular plant based food blog Quite Good Food. A champion for cooking and eating food that makes you feel good, she believes small changes in the way we approach food have the power to make a difference.
Expe r t s i n k i t c h e n s a n d i nt e r ior j o i n e r y s o l u t i o n s Treetown Kitchens has traded in Cambridge for over 50 years, with a reputation of designing high quality, custom built kitchens and cabinetry that last. For us, quality comes first.
info@treetownkitchens.co.nz | 07 827 7309 | www.treetownkitchens.co.nz Image thanks to The Social Circle
Life's a Brunch RECIPES & IMAGES FIONA HUGUES
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How I do love to attend a brunch soiree, as it leaves the rest of the day to do great things, undoubtedly fuelled by drinking bubbles at breakfast time. Hosting an early gathering is, however, the cause of much anxiety and heart palpitations among most, and there’s a few that won’t even bother such is the torture the mere thought of playing host brings. Fear not my friends, help is at hand. Here is my completely stress-free, prepared in advance brunch so that you too can enjoy bubbles for breakfast without sweat or tears. A FEW DAYS BEFORE Order pastries, the best you can afford. Decide on your table colour palette and try to stick to it. I’ve used an old rose and mustard floral theme here led by a piece of linen I used as a tablecloth because those usual garish pink and environmentally hazardous get-ups garnered from a reckless trip to a $2 shop make me grimace. Don’t be afraid to mix old and new tableware, but try to keep it all within colours you can count on one hand. I added black and white striped napkins for some graphic chic, but all similar shades are worth a crack too. The pretty Karen Walker side plates I used were the perfect match for my $1 op shop pink champagne flutes. The floral linen fabric was a good match with my handmade pottery plates. Same goes for flowers – mix garden and roadside finds with a few bunches from a florist for relaxed hostess happiness shown off in a vase.
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RECIPES
Buy ingredients for my brunch recipes and add some seasonal fruit to appease any vegetarians or vegans on your guest list. THE DAY BEFORE Make the bagel spreads, rillettes and potato salad, and chill in the fridge. Prepare your table, wash and iron linens, put out plates, glassware, cups for coffee and cutlery. Cut stems of flowers and arrange in vases of fresh water. Chill champagne … dairy and oat milk too if offering tea and coffee. ON THE DAY Put on your daytime jazzy playlist – I usually play Spotify French café or bossa nova lists. Light a few scented candles. Pile pastries, toasted bagels and brioche and stack onto serve ware or into baskets. Add butter and preserves to accompany the croissants. (Trick – put jams in small bowls or vintage jars so your guests think you made them.) Fill a press with ground beans or get your filter ready for coffee. Pull everything out of the fridge and place on the table. When guests arrive, chat, socialise and pour champagne. And in a rather magical fashion when ready to eat, with no stress at all, casually point guests towards your buffet brunch table so they can help themselves. Voila! You’re welcome.
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CREAMY CHEESE BAGEL SPREADS
I’m of the age where I can vaguely recall a retro cheese ball sitting proudly on a 1980s table all creamy, tart and delicious. Insanely tasty, I’ve brought that swanky party time beast of old out of pre-extinction and jazzed it up for brunch to serve with bagels. Frankly, I don’t really like too much fondling of my balls in the morning, so these ones aren’t manhandled and tossed about, instead they’re served in jars which makes them easier to store in the fridge. They’ll last for a good week or so. Just bring them out a half hour before serving to soften so they’re easy to spread.
SICILIAN CHEESE SPREAD 450–500g cream cheese, softened ½ cup grated cheese (I used Noble but Parmesan is great if you want a stronger flavour or mozzarella or Colby for those who prefer a milder palate). a whisper of crushed garlic, about 1/3 clove ¼ cup sautéed red capsicum, sliced 2 tbsp red onion, finely chopped 2 tbsp sundried tomatoes, sliced slivered green olives 1½ tsp tomato paste fresh chopped herbs (I used basil and flat leaf parsley) salt & pepper In a bowl beat together the cream cheese, garlic and grated cheese until well combined and pretty much smooth. (I used my stand mixer with paddle attachment). Stir in all the other ingredients well and taste. Adjust seasoning or ingredients as you prefer. Spoon into jars and refrigerate. Serve at room temperature.
BACON WALNUT SPREAD 450–500g cream cheese, softened ½ cup grated cheese 3 rashers of streaky bacon, cooked and finely chopped 2 tbsp horseradish, grated ½ cup toasted walnuts, chopped salt & pepper a squeeze of lemon to taste. Use the same method as above.
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SALMON RILLETTES Salmon in the morning is such a delicious thing. Most days I prefer savoury flavours early, and this ticks all my boxes. Rillettes (pronounced ‘ree-yet’) is a French classic made with smoked and poached salmon, flavoured with delicate fragrant things all buttery and rich. It is sublime on brioche toast but equally great on a bagel, and it keeps well in the fridge for a week (pop it on blinis for aperitif time later in the day or serve portions individually as an entrée with sliced baguette). My recipe here is more of a guide, so don’t forget to taste as you go.
300–400g approx. fresh salmon fillet, deboned 4 x spring onions, 2 roughly chopped, 2 finely sliced /3 cup white wine
2
zest of a lemon, plus the juice 250-300g hot smoked salmon fillet 1 x shallot, finely chopped 2–3 tbsp crème fraiche /3 cup good mayonnaise
1
2 tbsp whole seed mustard 1–2 tbsp fresh dill, chopped ¼ cup salted capers, rinsed and roughly chopped salt & pepper
Place the wine, fresh salmon, lemon zest and roughly chopped spring onions in a saucepan and add water just to cover. Bring to the boil, turn off heat and set aside to cool and infuse. In a bowl mix together the chopped shallot, finely chopped spring onion, mayo, mustard, capers, dill and crème fraiche. Drain poached salmon and discard liquid. Flake in the cooled gently cooked salmon (it should be dark pink and only just cooked) and add the smoked salmon and stir to combine. The key is keeping chunks of glorious pink fish, so don’t over mix. Have a taste. Season with a little salt, pepper and a squeeze of lemon and more tart crème fraiche if you need. Place in a bowl, cover and refrigerate for at least an hour so the flavours can get to know each other. Serve on toasted brioche, crostini, bagels or whatever bready thing takes your fancy.
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ALL DAY POTATO SALAD WITH SOFT BOILED EGGS
This salad is great at any time of the day. I’ve served it individually here for ease, but you can whack it on a big serving plate and shower it in chives to take to a BBQ. I love it in the morning as it’s all lemony and eggy with salty bacon bits. It’s pretty much a no fuss eggs benedict – just add some buttery wilted spinach if you’re a purist.
1 x 700g bag small gourmet potatoes (I used Medley for interest and colour), chopped into similar sizes 1 tbsp vegetable oil 1 red sweetie capsicum, sliced 9 rashers smoky dry-cured bacon, 5–6 chopped, 3 left whole 1 cup mayonnaise (or hollandaise if you like) 1 cup unsweetened Greek yoghurt ¼ cup fresh chives, chopped juice of a lemon flatleaf parsley, roughly chopped 3–5 soft boiled eggs, peeled and cut in half salt & pepper
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Place potatoes in a large pan of slightly salted water and bring to the boil. Simmer until tender when tested with a sharp knife. Drain and set aside to cool. In a pan over medium heat, add the oil and sauté the capsicum until softened and starting to golden. Place the mayonnaise and yoghurt in a large bowl, season, and add lemon juice to taste. Add the cooked capsicum, chopped chives, parsley and chopped bacon. Stir to combine and adjust seasoning to your liking. Add potatoes and toss to coat. Spoon salad into serving dishes – I used small wine goblets. Tuck in a rasher of bacon and nestle half an egg on top. Season with a sprinkle of pepper. Keep salad refrigerated but serve at room temperature with small cake forks.
Fiona Hugues Award winning food stylist, designer & creative multi-hyphenate Fiona Hugues spent her childhood gallivanting around the Waikato countryside on horse back. After Hillcrest High School, Elam School of Fine Arts took her to Auckland where she has lived ever since and now resides on a rural property with her French husband, their three children & a plethora of animals. She’s an entertaining expert, sourdough coach, art director and gourmand and it’s said in dire circumstances she would possibly trade one of her children for a bottle of Pinot Grigio & a good burrata.
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F E AT U R E
HARRIET’S HOW TO –
CINNAMON ROLLS WORDS HARRIET BOUCHER | IMAGES ASHLEE DECAIRES
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Mum’s cinnamon buns are iconic in our family. They have been used as bribery, to say thanks, for birthdays, and just for a decadent weekend treat. It was a no-brainer to do this season’s ‘how to’ on the trendy sweet bread.
Mum also recommended an old recipe from the American magazine Good Housekeeping, which had a similar rising issue as the Swedish cinnamon buns. It was a strange method, as you gradually beat in the flour to the milk mixture over a five-minute period, before turning it out to knead. The yeast never dissolved into the milk, which left it with little yeast granules throughout the finished product.
What is a cinnamon roll (or bun, or scroll)? According to bakerpedia.com, it is sweet baked dough, filled with cinnamonsugar filling. It is made with rich dough leavened with yeast; the characteristic form is due to rolling a dough sheet containing the sweetened cinnamon filling. Cinnamon rolls are thought to have originated in Sweden and are celebrated there on October 4th every year.
I also tested Erin Clarkson’s brioche dough for her brown butter cinnamon rolls (from cloudykitchen.com, a New Zealand baking blog). This recipe used a stand mixer with a dough hook. It started out a bit dry but eventually kneaded into buttery soft dough. This brioche had vanilla essence in the dough which gave it a subtle scent. I’m not sure this came through in the cooked cinnamon bun though. I had great success with the yeast this time around and it proved perfectly.
There are so many options for the perfect cinnamon bun. Even when you think you’ve nailed it, it still can come down to personal preference: thick cream cheese icing or a thin glaze? Brioche, enriched or basic dough? A cinnamon sugar sprinkle or a buttery paste? After six rounds of testing (such a hard job), I think I’ve found my pick! THE DOUGH: This is the most important part of the cinnamon bun, so I felt the pressure to get it right. I started with professional baker and patissier Dean Brettschneider’s Swedish cinnamon bun dough, flavoured with cardamom. It was a cold day but even after finding a warm spot, my dough struggled to rise. Admittedly I used active dry yeast instead of instant dry which the recipe calls for, so that may have been my downfall. I also tried Dean’s NYC Sticky Buns which uses the same dough, without the cardamom. This time I activated the yeast in the warm milk, and it rose perfectly. Dean’s doughs are sticky to start, which requires a little extra flour, but they knead into a silky-smooth product that are a breeze to work with. My mother Tracey Gunn’s cinnamon buns use her basic bread-maker dough that gets turned into bread rolls, pizza bases and scrolls in our house. I made this dough by hand but used the Surebake yeast that you would typically use in a breadmaker. It worked a treat and resulted in soft, pliable dough.
THE FILLING: My filling preference is a buttery brown sugar and cinnamon paste (just like Mum makes) over a sprinkling of cinnamon sugar, but I was willing to try all options. For the Swedish buns, Dean Brettschneider sprinkles a brown sugar and cinnamon mix over his dough that has been rolled out and brushed with water. He adds white sugar into the mix for his NYC sticky buns, which doesn’t make a huge difference in flavour. The Good Housekeeping recipe uses a similar sugar mix, but the dough is brushed generously with butter before being coated in sugar. These three sugar mixes were lacking that warmth and spice that cinnamon brings. The Cloudy Kitchen brown butter filling was quite fiddly: you brown the butter, cool it down to a spreadable consistency and then beat it with brown sugar, cinnamon and vanilla. The generous amount of cinnamon was inspiring though, everyone else should take note! Mum’s paste is similar, minus a lot of the effort, and she too is generous with her cinnamon quantity. THE SHAPING: To me, the best cinnamon rolls are the iconic tray of perfectly touching buns, rolled into tight spirals and baked cut side up; they’re oozy with filling—and icing—when you finally pull them apart. These are how buns by Cloudy Kitchen, Good Housekeeping and Mum are shaped. Even though this is my personal favourite, the middle buns lack the crust that the outer buns achieve. But some people love the sticky middle buns so choose wisely who you share them with. Dean Brettschneider’s Swedish cinnamon buns have a traditional knot shape. These can be twisted a
few different ways, but you start by rolling the dough into a sheet, spreading it with filling, then folding it in half and cutting strips. These strips are then twisted and stretched out. Dean ties his buns into a double knot, but they can also be twirled around your thumb to create a tight spiral. Traditionally, they are also sprinkled with crunchy pearl sugar instead of a glaze, but that was impossible to find in stores so we skipped that step. Dean’s NYC sticky buns start off with a log of filled dough that’s cut into 12 buns but instead of sitting cosy on a tray, they are placed into Texas muffin tins that have a dollop of a caramel-like glaze in the bottom of each hole. THE ICING: Cloudy Kitchen uses an American-style cream cheese icing that was slathered over each bun. The icing was delectable, but it was definitely too much when paired with a brioche cinnamon bun. A few of my taste-testers ended up wiping most of the icing off. The glaze that sits beneath the NYC sticky bun is made with honey, sugar, butter, vanilla and salt. It bubbles into a caramel as the dough bakes around it. When the buns are flipped out, they have a toffee-like topping that is to die for. However, since we were making cinnamon buns, I found that the honey overpowered the cinnamon flavour.
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Mum’s and the Good Housekeeping’s buns have a basic icing sugar/water glaze over top which adds naughty sweetness to the bun while the cinnamon flavour stands hero. THE TASTE TEST: Good Housekeeping’s dough came out spongy and airy. If it wasn’t for the filling and glaze, it would have been very dry. I’d give these ones a miss. Cloudy Kitchen’s brioche-based bun was a dessert in itself. For the amount of effort that goes into a brioche, it wouldn’t be my pick for an everyday cinnamon bun, but they are worth it when impressing a crowd. They are very sweet, and the icing is a bit too generous, but that’s part of the glory of a cinnamon bun, isn’t it? Dean’s Swedish cinnamon buns were my least favourite, but the version made by Whangamata’s Port Road Project cafe is out-thegate-good, packed with cardamom flavour and always with pearl sugar on top. I love the intricate shaping of these buns and being less sweet, they are a bit lighter than Cloudy Kitchen’s buns, and NYC sticky buns.
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Mum’s cinnamon buns were just how I remember them growing up. The dough is quite savoury, which I personally love. The filling is packed with cinnamon and the sweet glaze brings it all together. For me, the winner was a close call between these and Dean’s NYC sticky buns. The NYC sticky buns were fluffy and moreish, and the toffee glaze was an enticing change from icing. The filling on the first test of these lacked cinnamon and the honey in the glaze was quite overpowering.
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Harriet's Ultimate
Cinnamon Buns
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NOURISH
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RECIPES
To create my ultimate cinnamon bun, I have used Dean’s NYC sticky bun dough, removed the honey from the glaze and used Mum’s brown sugar paste filling. This is my winning combo that encapsulates the cinnamon bun definition.
Once the dough is soft and elastic. Place in a lightly oiled bowl, covered with plastic wrap, for 45 minutes or until doubled in size.
DOUGH:
While the dough is rising, make your filling by beating the butter with the brown sugar and cinnamon until it becomes a smooth paste. It doesn’t need to be light and fluffy, just evenly mixed.
3½ tsp active dry yeast 500g strong bread flour 1¼ tsp salt 100g butter ½ cup sugar 1 medium Otaika Valley egg 260ml milk, warmed to 30°C FILLING:
140g butter, softened ¾ cup brown sugar 2½ tbsp cinnamon GLAZE:
200g brown sugar 100g butter pinch of salt ½ tsp vanilla extract
Tip the dough out of the bowl and gently deflate by folding it on itself 3–4 times. Place the dough back in the bowl, cover and leave for a further 30 minutes.
To make the glaze, very gently melt all of the ingredients together in a saucepan over a low heat until the sugar is dissolved, making sure not to boil it. Grease two, six-hole Texas muffin tins well with butter or spray oil. Place 2 tbsp of the glaze in the bottom of each muffin cup. Tip dough onto a lightly floured work surface. Using a rolling pin, roll out to a 45cm x 35cm rectangle, with the long edge facing you. Spread the cinnamon filling evenly over the dough, then tightly and evenly roll the dough into a log. Lengthen the log slightly by gently rolling it, then cut into 12 even pieces, approximately 4cm thick. Place each dough piece into a muffin cup with the spiral cut facing up. Cover with plastic wrap and leave to rise for about 1 hour until doubled in size. When buns have risen, remove plastic wrap and place into a preheated 200°C oven. Bake for 15–20 minutes until light and golden brown. Remove from the oven, wait 1 minute then tip the muffin pan upside down and allow the buns to gently fall onto a baking tray or rack. Be careful as the glaze will be hot. Allow to cool slightly then serve. Note: You can skip the glaze step and follow the recipe as usual, then ice with an icing sugar/water mix if you prefer that way!
¼ tsp cinnamon To make the dough, sprinkle the yeast over the warm milk, along with a large pinch of the sugar. Give it a whisk with a fork and allow to activate for 5–10 minutes until foamy. Place the rest of the dough ingredients, along with the yeast/milk mix, in a large mixing bowl and give it a stir with a wooden spoon to bring it together. Tip onto a lightly floured work surface and knead for 15 minutes, resting for 1 minute every few minutes to allow the dough to relax. Have a small bowl of flour handy for dusting as the dough can be quite sticky.
Harriet Boucher Harriet is a Waikato born and raised foodie. She is a chef by trade and has worked in a few popular cafes and restaurants around Hamilton. When she isn’t whipping up treats, you can find her enjoying a walk along the river or dining at her favourite local eateries.
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Cinnamon Bun Knots Now that I have discovered the perfect cinnamon roll, it’s time to get a bit fancy. Shaping the bun into a knot rather than a roll gives an intricate look, and there’s no need for icing as you don’t want to cover over the detail. This twist uses the same dough and filling recipe, just without the glaze. The dough will be easier to handle if it has just finished its second, 30-minute prove, or has been in the fridge for roughly 20 minutes to firm up slightly. If you crave the sweetness, dust the buns in icing sugar before serving.
Tip: For less layers you can fold in half instead of thirds
STEP 1
STEP 2
STEP 3
Line a baking tray. Roll the dough into a 35x45cm rectangle.
Step 2: Spread the cinnamon butter all over.
Fold the 45cm side of the dough into thirds on top of itself to create a thick rectangle of dough. Make sure the edges are even and there isn’t too much overhang.
STEP 4
STEP 5
STEP 6
Gently roll the sheet out slightly thinner, but don’t go overboard as you still want the dough to have structure.
Cut the dough into 10–12 even strips.
Take one of the dough strips and cut it twice lengthways, leaving a bit attached at the top so you are left with three strands.
STEP 7
STEP 8
STEP 9 Place the knots on the lined baking tray, cover with plastic wrap and leave to prove for 30–45 minutes. In Dean Brettschneider’s book Bread, he explains that for correctly proved dough, when lightly pressed, the indentation springs back but does not fully return to its original shape.
Plait these strands and then pinch the end together.
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Starting with the pinched end, roll it up towards the top end until it’s a plaited knot of dough.
Once the buns are proved, bake in a preheated oven, set at 190°C for 15–20 minutes.
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F E AT U R E
Hear Yeast, Hear Yeast WORDS VICKI RAVLICH-HORAN | IMAGES ASHLEE DECAIRES
With more than 1,500 species, yeast can be found almost everywhere. A single celled microorganism yeast is not made but grown. In essence, this is what you are doing when you create a sourdough starter, collecting wild yeast and growing it. To grow, yeast needs food (sugar), the right temperature and oxygen. Whether making beer or bread, the process starts out the same. The enzymes in yeast convert sugar into alcohol and carbon dioxide. A baker wants to capture the carbon dioxide to leaven the bread and make it rise. A brewer wants to capture the alcohol. TOO HOT TO HANDLE! As a living organism you can easily kill yeast, and hot temperatures are a great way to do this. Anything over 59°C will kill your yeast. While cold temperatures won’t kill the yeast, it also won’t encourage it to grow, which is why yeast is stored in the fridge. The ideal temperature to get that bug multiplying is between 24°C–35°C. Though man has harnessed and used yeast for over 5,000 years, it was Louis Pasteur’s invention of the microscope that led to our understanding of yeast and thus the ability to control and manufacture it. This was great news for commercial bakers, and the likes of me who, while I appreciate a delicious sourdough loaf, has no patience for growing and maintaining my own starter. Instead, I rely on bought yeast which comes in several different forms.
FRESH YEAST Also known as cake or compressed yeast, fresh yeast is preferred by many professional bakers. Although it is harder to get and has a much shorter shelf life than other or dried forms of yeast. Fresh yeast contains around 70% moisture and does not require you to activate it like dried yeasts. ACTIVE DRY YEAST These granules of yeast have had the moisture removed, giving a shelf stable yeast with a longer shelf life. For best results the yeast granules need to be activated (sometimes called bloomed) in warm liquid before being added to the dry ingredients. INSTANT YEAST Instant yeast is more finely ground yeast that can be added directly to the dry ingredients in a recipe without being activated. It also tends to rise faster than active dry yeast. SUREBAKE YEAST OR BREADMAKER YEAST Especially formulated for beadmakers with a mix of active dry yeast and bread improvers such as wheat flour and sugar. NUTRITIONAL YEAST Created to be a food product not a raising agent, the yeast cells are killed during manufacture. Used to add a cheesy, savoury flavour to food and a handy ingredient for vegans.
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AUTUMN
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GARDENING
Figs
WORDS LYNDA HALLINAN | IMAGE BRYDIE THOMPSON
Is it better to give a fig than to receive one? I suppose it depends on your tastebuds, though I'm sure most foodies would prefer to be given a bag of plump purple figs than a bucketful of free feijoas. I’m a late convert to figs. Perhaps I was scarred by childhood Christmas memories of my father, a fan of dried figs, slowly and selfishly chewing his way through a sticky round of Turkish figs before embarking on the Griffin's biscuit sampler. Fresh figs were unheard of in our household – and most other Kiwi homes of that era – but now their fast and furious fruiting season is welcomed with the sort of salivation previously reserved for the first cut of spring asparagus. The first homegrown fig I ever ate, I’m sad to say, was as underwhelming as it was underripe. I’d bought a house in Auckland with a huge old Brown Turkey tree growing out from under the front deck. Every autumn, the birds had a field day, leaving me to waterblast the sticky carcasses of hundreds of hollowed figs off the timber. Rarely did I get to enjoy an unblemished fruit, its skin a balayage of green and purple, its ambrosial flesh a dainty shade of amber-pink. Take it from me that, in a home garden setting at least, the best sort of fig tree is a tree small enough to fling bird netting over. A city friend of mine enjoys a superb annual crop from her potted 'Panache' fig tree, a novelty variety with tiger-striped fruit, but a tree espaliered against a sunny wall, its branches splayed for maximum fruiting with a minimum of fuss, also does the trick. A few summers ago, another friend gave me a bag of ripe-to-burst Brunoro Black figs. I scoffed the lot and immediately ordered my own tree to plant. This is the most popular variety in New Zealand, according to Te Mata Figs in Hawke’s Bay, and for good reason: like a Hass avocado, the skin deepens almost to black, an obvious measure of ripeness, and the flavoursome flesh turns blood-red. The fruit is also perfectly sized to wrap in prosciutto or slather with goat’s cheese and honey. In a sheltered, sunny spot with protection from hard winter frosts, figs flourish a little too enthusiastically. A small tree rapidly becomes a big tree without some attention from a pair of loppers. As figs fruit on new season’s growth, it pays to tip prune in midDecember to remove excess growth, then thin back the trees by roughly a third at the end of winter. (Rather than cutting back each branch by a third, which removes any hope of an early or breba
crop, cut back every third branch.) Figs aren't too fussy about soil conditions, but they do need the occasional deep soak during a hot, dry summer. Mulch heavily to conserve soil moisture and keep the roots cool, as drought-stressed trees will defoliate prematurely and abort their crop before it’s ripe. I've learned this the hard way this summer, as my parched young tree produced an inaugural haul of figs the size of cocktail cherries. Never mind. I'll gently simmer them in a heavy sugar syrup, let them drip dry then make a batch of gooey-centred chocolate truffles. PLANT NOW: KOHLRABI On the eve of the first Covid-19 lockdown in 2020, a friend shared a photo of my local garden centre, showing the shelves stripped completely bare of veggie seedlings … apart from a few lonely punnets of kohlrabi. I couldn't help but feel sorry for this most underrated of bulbous brassicas, for not only is kohlrabi a damn sight easier to shred into a tasty slaw than cabbage, it’s faster and more foolproof to grow than broccoli, Brussels sprouts or cauliflowers. I suspect that the main reason Kiwi gardeners have sidelined this useful brassica is that no one knows what to do with it. White cabbage butterfly caterpillars seem to find it similarly confounding; although they'll nibble at the leaves, they leave the edible base alone. In autumn, this quirky looking vegetable swells up reliably to the size of an apple, with a topknot of kale-like foliage. Plant seedlings now or direct sow early Purple Vienna, Azure Star or the lime green Duke hybrid. They’ll be ready to harvest in 8–10 weeks, just in time for some tasty recipes you’ll find in the winter issue of Nourish.
Lynda Hallinan Waikato born-and-raised gardening journalist Lynda Hallinan lives a mostly self-sufficient life at Foggydale Farm in the Hunua Ranges, where she grows enough food to satisfy her family, free-range chooks, kunekune pig and thieving pukekos. She has an expansive organic vegetable garden and orchards and is a madkeen pickler and preserver.
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Garden Bounty
WORDS VICKI RAVLICH-HORAN | IMAGES ASHLEE DECAIRES
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Dotted through Hamilton Gardens you’ll spot some of the healthiest quince trees around, and at this time of year they are laden. An ancient fruit, the quince has fallen out of favour in recent times, possibly due to the work involved in turning the rose scented fruit into anything edible. This has meant many trees are neglected and the fruit riddled with disease. Not so at Hamilton Gardens!
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Leading Hand Tarn Harker, who has been working at the gardens for five plus years, gave us a little tour to point out just where some of the hidden gems in the garden can be found. Tarn trained at Wintec on site at the Hamilton Gardens and now leads a team of 4-5 gardeners. If you ever get the chance to have a behind the scenes tour of the gardens I highly recommend it. Each time I spend time with the gardening team I learn something new about this treasure in our city, not to mention gain a nugget of knowledge I can take back to my garden. While the gardeners' foremost priority is always visual impact, several gardens produce some fabulous produce. The Italian Renaissance Garden is a perfect example. Here, 48 healthy Seville orange trees put on a beautiful display each year. If you have ever tried to grow citrus in a pot you will appreciate the care and attention required for these trees to flourish. And flourish they do. In late autumn they are bursting with bright orange fruit. While visually gorgeous, this fruit, like the quince, is not edible raw. Also like the quince they don’t go to waste, instead the Hamilton Gardens team harvest the oranges along with the quince and send them to Wild Country who turn them into preserves sold in the gift shop.
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The Seville Orange Marmalade was the first of the Hamilton Gardens Preserve range. You’ll also find a paste made from those quinces, Damson Plum Jam from the trees in the Tudor Garden as well as Lemon Curd and Chilli Sauce. When we arrive at the kitchen garden, a garden designed to be like a kitchen garden of a manor house, we see mile high corn, tonnes of tomatoes, kiwifruit, courgettes, chillies and more, including a large patch where potatoes had just been dug. In this garden, where an abundance of produce is grown the Hamilton Gardens Café make use of what they can or Kaivolution are called to help distribute the bounty, like the bumper potato crop. The Hamilton Gardens are not designed to be a city farm but instead a place to learn through the gardens of time. It just so happens that such gardens produce food. I’m looking forward to what the planned Egyptian garden will produce! All the same, it’s great to see that little goes to waste and what can be is used to generate more funds for the garden or enhance visitors' experience and the rest is donated to those in need. Hamilton Gardens Hungerford Crescent, SH1, Hamilton www.hamiltongardens.co.nz
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on the sunny corner of Bow St and Wainui Rd, Whaingaroa Raglan
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LO O K I N G I N TO 2022 WORDS NATALIE JACQUES
A new year offers us the chance to evaluate what we would like to achieve for the year. This could include anything from health, wealth, personal development, sporting achievements to improved relationships. Research shows that 70% of problems can be resolved by setting well-formed outcomes. Bearing in mind though, that goal setting is not always about resolving problems, sometimes it's about optimising or maintaining what we already have!
How to set successful goals Well-formed outcomes must address these 7 points: • Sensory specific: Where and when do you want to achieve your goals? What date do you intend to have this outcome by? Visualise stepping into your body at that time. What feelings, sights, sounds, experiences can you use to measure that you have achieved your goal? Be specific. • Positive language: The goal should be stated with a positive, rather than negative focus. Otherwise, the focus is on what you don't want, not what you want. For example, if you were wanting to reach a goal weight it is better to say, "I want to reach X kg", not "I want to lose X kg".
• Ecology: Understanding the implications of your goals can help motivate you to achieve them by thinking long-term and bigger picture. Ask yourself questions such as "what will I gain from this outcome?" or "what will I lose by achieving this?" "What situations is it not ok to have/do this?" • Choices: "How can this outcome increase my life choices?" This question opens up your idea of the world and future opportunities and possibilities. • Achievability: Who do you know that has achieved this goal before? And if there is no one, ask yourself "what evidence do I have that this is possible?", and then "what do I personally need to do to achieve this?" • First step: Get things rolling. "What is the first small step I can take to reach my goal in the next 24 hours?" • Your resources: Identify what resources you already have available to achieve this and what previous experiences of success, even if unrelated, you have had. This already places yourself in a successful state to achieve your goals. Adapted from Richard Bolstad's NLP practitioner manual.
The Herbal Dispensary's 2022 Goal We are really excited to share with you one of our goals this year. The Raglan Herbal Dispensary's clinic is going to offer online programmes to help you on your health journey. These programmes will be aimed at providing specific health solutions e.g., achieving optimal gut health; attaining radiant, clear and glowing skin; improving energy and resilience. Our solution-focused programmes will include education, meal plans, and support groups on a user-friendly platform ... Stay tuned for future announcements!
Get Started ... Whatever your health goals are, or even if you don't know them yet, a good place to start is to assess your liver function!
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How many of these statements applied to you?
Love Your Liver Questionnaire
1-3: Congratulations! Your liver is feeling the love. Keep up the good work! To maintain health and wellbeing, consider adding some of our Wellbeing or Harmony tea to your daily routine.
Note down all that apply to you to see if your liver is feeling the love, or if there might be imbalances to address. • Do you eat red meat, refined sugar or processed foods more than twice a week? • Do you experience mood swings and anxiety?
4-6: There are some early warning signs of imbalance starting to show. Consider our Happy Liver or Liver Lover tea as part of your daily ritual. For extra support, use our Liver Cleanse tonic. 7-9: Your liver may not be feeling the love, leading to imbalance. You can start with our Liver Cleanse Tonic, and you would benefit from an in-depth consultation with one of our qualified naturopaths.
• Do your legs, ankles or feet swell up? • Do you suffer eruptions or blemishes on your skin? • Do you drink alcohol more than twice a week? • Do you often feel run down and fatigued? • Do you frequently suffer from digestive issues (e.g., constipation, diarrhoea, bloating, cramps)? • Do you often feel excessively thirsty? • Have you experienced unexplained weight loss or gain?
H E A LT H
By Natalie Jacques Naturopath & Medical Herbalist BHSc, AdvDip Herb Med, AdvDip Naturopathy
The Herbal Dispensary 07 825 7444 | 6 Wallis Street, Raglan www.raglanherbaldispensary.nz
PRESENT
PINK RIBBON BREAKFAST 9.30am, Tuesday 24th May at Lexus of Hamilton $65 per person. Ticket includes a wonderful local breakfast and a goodie bag to take home.
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Urban Homes WORDS DENISE IRVINE | IMAGES ASHLEE DECAIRES
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One of the pleasures of the job for Urban Homes cofounder Daniel Klinkenberg is attending handovers, the occasions when clients accept the keys to their new masterpiece. There’s typically a bottle of bubbly and smiles all round. Says Daniel: “I love to see a project completed; a good result and the look on the faces of the clients.” It’s likely that there will also be Urban staff present at such events who haven’t been actively involved in the build. Daniel considers it good practice for his wider team to understand the client’s pathway, from go to whoa. He says when they attend a handover, the end point, they get a much better feel for how it all comes together. Daniel and wife Bronwyn started design-and-build company Urban Homes in Hamilton in 2004, and developing a talented team has been as important to them as the houses they’ve signed off in the past 18 years. They say their aim, always, is to get the right people in the right roles, so they can do their best work. The Klinkenbergs are talking about their business at their latest Urban show home at Pukekura, on the outskirts of Cambridge. This build won the 2021 National Show Home of the Year at the Registered Master Builders Awards, and was also the regional gold medal winner. The titles add to an abundance of top awards earned by Urban since its inception; it is currently Waikato’s most awarded master builder. The Pukekura property is a mix of rustic character and uber-cool charm, and it has many of the features that Daniel and Bronwyn value in a home. Their personal must-haves include a stylish and practical open-plan space (kitchen, dining, living, the heart of the home); a covered outdoor living space; a fireplace for cosy winter nights; over-height stud or raked ceilings to give a feeling of space; and large windows and doors to let in plenty of natural light.
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builder, Bronwyn a primary school teacher; Daniel (a self-confessed perfectionist) was on the tools, Bronwyn was in total support. As a boy growing up in Waikanae, near Wellington, Daniel had had the bright idea of building flying foxes so he could get to his mates’ houses quicker than going by road. While he never did the flying foxes, at Urban he began incorporating his ideas and his eye for detail into houses for his clients. There have been some bumpy patches: the Klinkenbergs especially recall the difficult times of the Global Financial Crisis (GFC, 2007–2008) when they only had a few days work ahead of them. “We don’t forget where we came from,” says Bronwyn. Nowadays, Urban Homes has 120 staff and there are currently more than 120 houses under construction across the Waikato, Coromandel and South Auckland. The company’s landmark headquarters on Hamilton’s London Street was designed by Hamilton architects Edwards White. It is also home to Urban’s state-of-the-art design centre, StudioU, a space where clients can touch and feel all the products that go into the houses. “It is an amazing experience for them,” says Daniel. General Manager, Andrew South runs day to day operations and Daniel is Managing Director, currently working on an Urban franchise system, as well as land acquisition for Urban’s land and house packages. Daniel and Andrew also head the company’s strategic leadership team. Bronwyn is a director and works on high level strategy. “She’s my sounding board,” says Daniel. “We have a lot of conversations
They also like the spacious entrance foyer of the Pukekura home, the day bed and window seat in the open-plan area, and a handsome glazed brick interior wall. “We’re constantly looking for inspiration and points of difference for our show homes and our clients,” says Bronwyn. Daniel and Bronwyn, and sons Jordan, 10, and Isaac, 7, have lived in Urban homes (of course) in the past. In more recent times they’ve moved to Tauranga to focus on the business’s future expansion and growth. The couple started Urban from scratch, following a dream from the early days of their relationship. They married in 2004, the same year they started the business. Daniel was a trade-qualified PAGE 57 | WWW.NOURISHMAGAZINE.CO.NZ
through the day.” He says at Urban they’ve taken the quality of an independent building company and combined it with the systems, services and processes of a volume group builder. “There aren’t many volume builders in the middle to upper market where we are.” Clients can build from existing Urban plans or go for bespoke. “But every one of our homes is different,” says Daniel. “We never build the same two houses; they are always a partnership between us and our clients. We want them to enjoy the process of designing and building a home. The service we offer is just as important as the homes we build.” And each house must also meet the rigorous Urban Quality Standard (UQS), a 197-point checklist developed by the company. While much has changed at Urban, the values have stayed the same. Daniel and Bronwyn say that from founding day they were committed to building with integrity. “It [integrity] is across everything we do,” says Daniel. “We’re doing the right thing even when no one is watching. Our work is always around the calibre of the home, achieving a balance of quality and services. It’s a tough industry, and if we make mistakes we own them.”
A family trip to Texas in 2019 brought fresh inspiration for strengthening Urban’s staff culture after Daniel and Bronwyn visited successful building companies in the state where there was a strong focus on valuing and nurturing staff. Similarly, Daniel says he and Bronwyn want their staff to flourish and step into new opportunities. “We have learnt that culture and values are not just a plaque on the wall. We want to build a culture of excellence and trust; it is a real point of difference.” Says Bronwyn: “It’s cool for us to see young staff coming through, starting from scratch and moving into more senior and managertype roles. It’s so rewarding. We love that.” Just like they love handover day, and the reward of seeing happy clients in a new (Urban) home. Urban Homes www.urban.co.nz
Eating well made easy. We’re dedicated to creating delicious and nutritious foods, drinks and smoothies to power you through your busy day. Come in and see what’s good or order online!
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65 Devine Road, Tamahere
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RECIPES
Fay Good 65 YEARS OF COOKING
RECIPES WAYNE GOOD | IMAGES ASHLEE DECAIRES
The two recipes I am sharing with you in this issue were my dear mother’s. Sadly, Mum passed away on November 5th last year, a few weeks shy of her 90th birthday. Fay – Mum – came from a line of very strong women, who were all fantastic cooks, and I could comfortably say that these recipes probably came from the generation before her, perhaps with Mum putting her own mark on the recipe. I have Mum’s cookbook, with many little pieces of tatted, browning paper and very scant instructions to make a fruit loaf, a pie or whatever, that had been collected over a lifetime, no doubt, from one of her many friends in the Women’s Institute or wherever. To me, cooking and good hospitality is about not just sharing good food, but ideas and recipes. I was very lucky from a very young age to be encouraged to go into her kitchen and help, and later, when I got older, create in the kitchen under my own steam. I have two older brothers, one sadly passed away 15 months ago, and they too were taught the basics by Mum, so that when we left home, we had the skills to be able to provide ourselves with a wholesome meal. I fear that many a younger generation are missing out on this blessing.
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RHUBARB AND CARAMEL MERINGUE FLAN Rhubarb is definitely not one of my favourite things, especially stewed with apple … gag! However, teamed in a good pastry with the caramel and meringue, it’s delicious. We were served this with good old Tip Top Vanilla ice cream, but I rather like a good dollop of créme fraîche.
1 quantity of sweet short pastry (I used Panetone available from Vetro) 2 eggs, separated 2 cups caster sugar
chopped rhubarb and leave for 1 minute. Drain and set aside. In a mixer, cream the butter with 1 cup of the caster sugar until pale. Add the egg yolks and continue to beat for another minute. Finally add the flour and mix. Place the rhubarb into the pastry case and top with the batter. Place into a pre-heated oven of about 160°C and bake for 15 to 20 minutes, or until the batter is set. Place the egg whites into a mixing bowl and beat until stiff. Gradually add the remaining caster sugar and beat until dissolved.
175g butter 2 tbsp flour 2 cups rhubarb, chopped Roll out your pastry on a floured board and line a wellgreased, loose bottom, shallow flan tin with the pastry. Place baking paper on top and then ceramic baking beans. Bake at about 190°C for approximately 20–25 minutes. Take out of the oven and remove the baking paper and baking beans. Return to the oven for another 10 minutes, or until the pastry is golden.
Remove the flan from the oven and immediately place the meringue on top. Turn the oven down to 130°C and return the flan to the oven. Cook until the meringue is firm to the touch and slightly golden – approximately 10 to 15 minutes. Serve warm with either vanilla ice cream or cream fraiche. Note: The batter turns into a gooey caramel, so don’t be alarmed if it doesn’t set firmly! I wouldn’t recommend cooking the base/batter in advance as the butter in the caramel can split.
While this is happening, pour boiling water over the
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@thestoreltd the_store_cambridge
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FAY ’S B E ST E V E R SEAFOOD PIE When I was young, this recipe was quite an ordinary, yet delicious dish. I’m talking 50 years ago, when getting a whole smoked snapper at the fish shop was like buying a packet of sausages now, readily available and cheap. As the years have gone on, this has changed, with smoked fish becoming more of a treat. Mussels and oysters would also have been added, and there is no reason why you can’t do that now. A great dish to feed a crowd.
100g butter /3 cup flour
2
300ml milk 200ml cream 2 tbsp parsley, chopped 1 onion, diced ¾ cup sour cream 2 tsp Dijon mustard 2 tbsp capers 500g firm white fish, cubed 500g smoked fish, broken up 250g scallops, cut in half 250g green prawns, shelled salt and pepper to taste 2 cups fresh breadcrumbs 50g butter
In a large pot, melt the butter and add the onion and parsley. Cover and cook out for about 5 to 8 minutes, or until the onion is clear. Do not allow it to brown. Add the flour and cook for a few minutes, again not allowing the flour to brown. While this is happening, place the milk and cream into another pot and heat until just under boiling. Gradually add the milk and cream to the butter and flour, stirring all the time, until you have a nice thick, creamy roux. Add the sour cream, Dijon mustard, capers, fish and seafood. Check the seasoning and add salt and pepper to your taste. Pour this into a large ceramic oven dish. This makes quite a large pie and could easily be split into two dishes, one for the freezer and one for dinner! In the frypan, melt the last 50g of butter and add the fresh breadcrumbs, tossing until all the butter is absorbed. Place on top of the seafood pie. Place into a pre-heated oven at 180˚C. Cook until the pie is bubbling, and breadcrumbs are golden, about 30–40 minutes. Serve warm new potatoes and salad, or in the season, roasted asparagus.
Wayne Good Wayne Good is a chef, interior designer and travel guide. Renowned for his hospitality, Wayne’s cooking classes and tours of France are hot tickets! Discover more at www.arkanda.co.nz
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In Season
Gus Tissink from Bidfresh Hamilton gives us his picks for autumn produce, plus a few ideas on how to enjoy them.
Bidfresh 2 the Waikato! PROUD SUPPORTERS OF
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IN SEASON
A fig tree can live as long as 100 years, and they have been used for culinary purposes for thousands of years. Technically not a fruit but a mass of inverted flowers, figs offer autumnal dishes intrigue, looks, sweetness and flavour. The joy of figs is they are delicious both in sweet and savoury applications. Think of sweet figs wrapped in salty prosciutto or stuffed with blue cheese. Enjoy them in a hearty salad with nutty grains, like farro, and peppery roquette dressed with a slosh of balsamic or sherry vinegar. Or satisfy your sweet tooth with brûléed figs on a creamy custard-inspired dessert. Figs make a dramatic topping to the good old pav or a chocolate tart. Dairy products including ricotta, mascarpone, crème fraîche, burrata and salty cheese all work beautifully alongside figs. So too do honey, nuts (pine nuts, hazelnuts and almonds in particular), aromatic spices such as cinnamon, cardamom and black pepper, and herbs like thyme and rosemary. Raw or cooked, barbequed, roasted, stewed, stuffed or used in baking, figs are a fabulous addition! But it’s not just the fruit that is edible. Fig leaves add a tropical, coconut flavour to food when baked. Wrap salmon in fig leaves and bake to impart a smoky, fruity flavour.
VARIETIES Brown Turkey figs have large pyriform-shaped fruit. Yellow/brown soft flesh, with edible seeds which have a nutty taste like dried figs. Fairly tough skin and when ripe have a green/brown/purple hue. Candy figs have medium-sized, bell-shaped green/yellow skinned fruit. Deep red flesh which is rich and sugary. Adriatic figs are pale green- to pale yellow-skinned with a bright pink to brilliant red, super sweet flesh. Black Mission figs are extremely sweet (sometimes they even ooze a bit of syrup, which you should take as a very good sign). Despite their name, they aren't really black – more of an insanely deep blue purple that is gorgeous in its own right. Inside they are beautifully pink.
Gus Tissink
NOTE - Fresh figs are remarkably fragile. (Ripe ones often split open with juicy goodness even when left completely alone!). Don’t save these sweet treats, eat them as soon as you can – ideally within 2-3 days.
Gus is our resident vegie guy. Like most of our best chefs in the region, when we need beautiful produce, Gus and his team at Bidfresh Hamilton is where we turn.
Call us for the best in season, local produce CONTACT GUS TISSINK
0800 346 3366 | 027 241 3090 | gus.tissink@bidfood.co.nz
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RECIPES
PUMPKIN RECIPES & IMAGES EMMA GALLOWAY
Nothing symbolises the start of autumn more for me than pumpkins. Harvested in autumn, they are cheap and plentiful right about now. They’re also good keepers, if stored somewhere cool and with good airflow, meaning they’re one of my favourite vegetables to grow and eat throughout the cooler months.
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P UM PK IN + JAC K FRU I T YEL LOW C U R RY I know people get nervous making Thai curries from scratch as the ingredient list can look a little daunting; however, it is a really straightforward process. You can also make the curry paste well in advance, as it stores in the fridge for up to 4 days, or double up this recipe and freeze in portions for quick and easy mid-week meals. Feel free to add some Asian greens or broccoli to the curry for a little colour, if you like. You’ll find tins of young green jackfruit at most supermarkets. It adds a ‘meaty’ texture to vegetarian dishes. I use buttercup pumpkin here as I love their dense texture, but you can use any flavoursome pumpkin. SERVES 4 WITH RICE
YELLOW CURRY PASTE
5 shallots, unpeeled 6 cloves garlic, unpeeled 1 tbsp coriander seeds 1 tbsp finely grated ginger 3 red chillies, roughly chopped 1 lemongrass stalk, tender bottom part only, sliced thinly 2 tsp curry powder 1 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp salt 1 tbsp coconut oil 400ml tin coconut milk 2 tbsp coconut sugar 1½ tbsp soy sauce (gluten-free if needed) half a medium buttercup pumpkin, cut into bite-sized cubes (roughly 3–4 cups diced) 400g tin young green jackfruit, drained and rinsed well (available at Vetro) juice ½ lime
To make the curry paste, place unpeeled shallots and garlic into a dry heavy-based frying pan and cook over medium-high heat 8–10 minutes, stirring often, until the skins are charred and the insides tender. Remove from the pan and set aside. In the same hot pan, toast the coriander seeds 15–20 seconds while stirring, until golden and fragrant. Immediately transfer the toasted seeds to a mortar and pestle and grind to a coarse powder. Transfer ground coriander to food processor, peel shallots and garlic and add along with the grated ginger, chillies, lemongrass, curry powder, ground cumin and salt. Blend to form a smooth paste, adding 2–4 tablespoons water if needed to help it blend easier. To make curry, heat coconut oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add curry paste and cook, stirring often, for 3–4 minutes until fragrant and slightly reduced. Add coconut milk, 200ml cold water, coconut sugar, soy sauce and diced pumpkin. Cut each piece of green jackfruit in half, if large, then add to the saucepan. Bring to the boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook 8–10 minutes or until the pumpkin is just tender. Remove from the heat and stir through lime juice. Serve immediately with jasmine rice, sliced chillies and coriander leaves.
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PUM PK I N + K I M C H I FR IED R I C E I’ve used butternut pumpkin here, but any flavoursome pumpkin will do. Do your best to dice it as finely as you can to ensure quick cooking. If vegetarian or vegan, ensure your kimchi is free of fish-sauce. For added protein, serve topped with a fried egg or tofu. This recipe can easily be doubled to feed more. SERVES 2
1½ tbsp coconut, olive or peanut oil 2 spring onions, finely sliced 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped 1 cup pumpkin, finely diced 2 cups cold cooked jasmine rice (leftover rice is perfect)
fine salt and ground white pepper Heat oil in a large frying pan over high heat. Add finely diced pumpkin and cook, stirring often, for 3–4 minutes, until starting to colour and just tender (this time could vary if your dice is a little on the large side). Add the white parts of the spring onion and chopped garlic and cook for a further minute before adding the cold rice. Cook, stirring often until warmed through and the grains have separated. Add kimchi, stir well and remove from the heat. Stir through soy sauce, sesame oil, sesame seeds and half the sliced green spring onion tops. Season with salt and ground white pepper, to taste and serve immediately, topped with remaining sliced green spring onion tops.
Emma Galloway mydarlinglemonthyme.com @mydarlinglemonthyme Emma Galloway is a former chef, food photographer and creator of the multi-award winning food blog My Darling Lemon Thyme. She is the author of three cookbooks, her latest book Every Day was released in April 2021. She lives in Raglan with her husband and two children.
½ cup kimchi, roughly chopped 2 tsp soy sauce (gluten free, if needed) 1 tsp toasted sesame oil 1 tsp sesame seeds, lightly toasted
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BACK TO BASICS WITH BRAD
a bumper harvest WORDS & RECIPE BRAD KING | IMAGES BRYDIE THOMPSON
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As we bid farewell to the final shreds of summer, the veggie garden rewards us with its autumn harvest. Here at The Falls Retreat, this means that we are busy pickling, preserving and fermenting in an attempt to capture all of nature’s goodness. In every garden there is always an excess of certain staples— beans, zucchini, cucumber, far too many to keep using for salads! As a passionate chef, I am always looking for new and interesting ways to utilise this glut of produce, and food preserving has become my new best friend. Preserving is all about capturing a seasonal moment, a wonderful way of shifting the abundance of seasonal produce and ensuring nothing you grow (or buy) goes to waste. It involves many techniques—curing, freezing, boiling, sugaring, pickling, confit and fermentation. Pickling is an easy method of food preservation that works by immersing food in an acidic solution, usually vinegar, meaning the raw product is naturally preserved—an easy solution to providing your beautiful garden produce an extended shelf life and will see you through winter hibernation when veggie gardens are less productive.
BRAD’S TOP TIPS! Use the below tips and tricks to make your pickling and preserving easier and more delicious! · Muslin and jars can be washed and reused · Ensure jars have no ridges or cracks, especially edges where lid screws on · Wide rimmed jars are easier to use i.e., Agee jars · Always use refined sugar · Many small batches yield a better result than one big batch! 3kg max at a time.
VINEGAR TIPS! · Good quality vinegar (or at least 5% acetic acid is essential for long term keeping)
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BISTRO CUCUMBER & ZUCCHINI PICKLE 1.5kg washed cucumber/zucchini mixed 700g onions 80g sea salt 500ml cider vinegar 350g caster sugar 4 tsp mustard seeds ½ tsp ground cloves 1 tsp ground turmeric 2 tsp coriander seeds 1 tsp cumin seeds 1 tsp chilli flakes (optional) 2 chillies (optional) 150g thinly sliced ginger Thinly slice the cucumber and zucchini. Use a mandolin if you have one. Peel and halve the onions, then thinly slice. Then toss the cucumber/ zucchini and sliced onions in salt until well combined. Using a muslin cloth, tie mixture into a bundle and hang over a drip container to allow water content to filter out (4 hours or overnight). Another technique is to place the cucumber mix into a colander over a bowl and weigh the mixture down with a plate. Combine the vinegar, sugar and spices in a suitable pot and slowly bring to the boil, stirring constantly until the sugar is completely dissolved. Rinse the cucumber mix well to get rid of the salt, slightly squeezing mixture to get rid of the moisture. Add the well-drained cucumber mixture to the vinegar/sugar solution and bring back to the boil for 1 minute. Mix well so that the spices are evenly distributed. Sterilise your jars and lids—you can do this in the dishwasher or carefully in an oven. Using a sterilised strainer over another pot, drain the cucumber mixture. Place vinegar back on the heat and bring to a simmer. Place cucumber mixture into jars using funnels, leaving a 2 cm gap to the rim of the jar. Pour boiling vinegar into each jar, leaving a ½cm headspace at the top.
· Never use an aluminium pot. The chemical reaction between the acid in the vinegar and the aluminium in the pot is not good for you. · Boil vinegars rapidly and only for as long as needed. The longer you boil vinegar, the more acetic acid evaporates, weakening the solution and losing some of its keeping properties. Boiling for longer means you also lose some of the natural colourings.
Falls Retreat | 07 863 8770 25 Waitawheta Road, Karangahake Gorge www.fallsretreat.co.nz
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W H AT I D O WITH MISO WORDS HARRIET BOUCHER | IMAGES ASHLEE DECAIRES
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Miso is one of those ingredients that you buy for a recipe that you desperately want to try, make it once, and then the jar sits in the fridge staring at you, wanting you to whip it out again for its next culinary use. We spoke to some local chefs for inspiration on how to use up that jar. Miso has been a staple in Japanese and other Asian cultures for over 1,000 years. In brief, it’s made through fermenting soybeans, koji rice (steamed rice inoculated with a mold) and salt together for an extended period of time. Other grains can be added to the fermentation process to create different flavour profiles and the time it’s left to ferment can influence the colour and depth too. Miso has become wildly popular in eateries and cookbooks over the last few years. It has a moreish umami flavour that can be used both sweet and savoury. You may have seen miso popping up in recipes from the likes of Peter Gordon, who uses it in Kumara Miso Mash, and Chocolate and Sweet Lemon Miso Brownie, or from Yottam Ottolenghi, whose Sticky Miso Bananas with Lime and Toasted Rice is currently sweeping the internet. The Duck Island Roasted White Chocolate and Miso ice cream is also an iconic local treat. A gateway use to spark your love for miso at home is to mix it into butter. Justin Thomson from The Shack in Raglan uses miso butter for sautéing mushrooms or finishing potato roasties, where Brigid Sullivan from La Cave smears her miso butter directly onto meat, seafood or vegetables. I love finishing steamed baby carrots with lashings of miso butter and a sprinkling of toasted sesame seeds for an impressive yet simple side dish. Miso soup is an iconic Japanese staple that is loved worldwide. Three quarters of the Japanese population consume miso soup at least once a day. A basic miso soup is made using dashi (Japanese vegetable broth) and miso paste, with the addition of nori. Lisa Quarrie, owner of Hayes Common and Weave, uses miso broth as the base for her ‘Get Better’ Soup, where she adds in any deteriorating veggies from her fridge, and loads of ginger and togarashi seasoning to finish. I know who to call next time I’m under the weather! The salty umami goodness in miso makes it the perfect addition to a dressing, glaze or marinade. You will find it mixed into an orange and ginger vinaigrette for Justin’s beetroot slaw or in Brigid’s sesame honey and miso dressing to drizzle over a raw veggie salad or soba noodles. Be brave, next time you’re making a marinade or dressing, add in a teaspoon to enhance the flavour or mix it through your veggies along with olive oil before roasting them. If you aren’t
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a fan of eggplant, it’s because you haven’t had it cooked for you by the chefs of Hayes Common, where it is smeared with miso, roasted and served on a buckwheat tabbouleh. Are you picking up on the theme that miso can turn nothing into something yet? In the restaurant scene, JK from Mr Pickles brushes meat with the Korean version of miso, Doenjang, then vacuum packs it and ages it for a few days before cooking. He also uses it for mayonnaises, purees and even in savoury macarons. JK talked me through how he uses Doenjang for Korean BBQ sauce by mixing it with gochujang and either peanut butter or tahini—a must try for some at home Korean cuisine. Baking idol of mine, Christina Tosi, is famous for her salty sweet creations, which often feature miso as an ingredient, such as her Burnt Miso Pound Cake and Miso Butterscotch Sauce. Head chef Ashleigh Brodie drizzles a miso coconut caramel over her cakes and slices at Weave Eatery. This caramel makes the perfect gift as it lasts for months in a glass bottle or jar in the fridge. One of Ash’s favourite things to bake, cookies, often has a spoonful of miso as their secret ingredient. The beauty of miso is that it is forgiving; it won’t overpower your meal if you start with small amounts. It will only enhance the flavour as would salt. Take inspiration from these local foodies and their favourite uses for this punchy paste. You’ll start to wonder why you hadn’t utilised this ingredient sooner! Quick ideas with miso: · Make miso butter · Whisk into caramel · Stir into soup · Brush over meats and vegetables to BBQ · Use in dressings or marinades · Balance out sweetness of baking · Add to a stir fry
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Flavour bomb WORDS VICKI RAVLICH-HORAN RECIPE & IMAGES BELINDA MACDONALD
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NOURISH
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REVIEW
Flavourbomb by Belinda MacDonald landed on my desk at an opportune time. Back at work after a festive season of overindulging I was, like many, contemplating those new year resolutions. You might recognise Belinda's name, she won My Kitchen Rules in 2017 and pops up regularly on the food scene from bone broth bars to cooking demos at food shows. It was the latter where I first met Belinda, who has a larger than life personality. And I am glad to say it is this personality that exudes off the pages of her book.
Miso Soup
Born and bred in Cambridge, Belinda has been playing with the ketogenic diet for some time and has been the recipe developer and vlogger for The Ketogenic Switch. While this book is dedicated to the keto diet, hence the use of erythritol and generous amounts of almonds and coconut oil, it is not solely for those on a diet. Belinda’s love of flavour means there are dishes everyone will love. For instance, the Sticky Whisky Lamb Ribs, or as Belinda calls them ‘lambgasm’, are marinated in a whisky sauce then served dripping in a hoisin sauce.
This is such a simple yet stunning sexy plant-based soul-bowl to nourish your precious gut! Think salty, sweet, crunchy, umami and deeply nourishing . . . plus did I mention EASY?
The Turkish-style Eggs with Whipped Ricotta and Brown Chilli Butter are sure to impress. Gluten free diets are well catered for in a keto diet, so there are plenty of recipes to suit. In fact, if the lack of carbs (aka bread) is one of the reasons you have been avoiding keto, Belinda has you covered with not just recipes like her Greek Spinach, Feta and Chorizo Flatbread but even for bagels, waffles and scones.
½ tsp grated fresh ginger
If I had one criticism of the book it would be that its contents are all over the place. You’ll find crackers in the same section as a main meal, sweets next to savoury. Although I can see how these fit the chapters, it makes finding the recipe you wanted difficult, but I’ll forgive her for this as my ketogenic diet just got easier with the aid of this book.
a few strips of finely sliced nori
Published by Random House NZ RRP $45
SERVES 1
100g veggies (I used broccoli and spring onions) handful of leafy greens (I used bok choy) 1 cup hot (not boiling) water 1 tbsp unpasteurised organic miso paste 1 tsp toasted sesame oil 1 tsp coconut aminos or tamari 1 tsp coconut cider vinegar To serve fresh microherbs or chopped herbs fresh coriander a few pinches of togarashi (Japanese spice blend) dollop of kimchi (optional) Place all your veggies in a serving bowl. Boil the kettle, then let it cool slightly so that the water’s no longer boiling, to protect the probiotics in the miso. Measure out your hot water into a jug, then add the miso, ginger, sesame oil, coconut aminos and vinegar, and whisk to combine. Taste, and adjust seasonings to suit. Pour the miso mixture over your bowl of greens, garnish with herbs, nori, togarashi, and a dollop of kimchi if you want some extra probiotics, and enjoy!
O R G A N I C F O OD STO R E Call in or shop online for local organic produce, fresh Volare bread and speciality foods.
www.raglanherbaldispensar y.nz � raglan he r baldi spensar y.nz INSTAGRAM theherbal di spensar y
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EVENTS WAIKATO FARMERS’ MARKETS Where local and convenience collide, the Waikato Farmers’ Markets are on every weekend come rain, hail or shine. Cambridge Farmers’ Market, every Saturday 8am–12noon, Victoria Square Hamilton Farmers’ Market, every Sunday 8am–12noon, The Barn, Claudelands www.waikatofarmersmarkets.co.nz
FALLS RETREAT COOKING, CURING & SMOKING WORKSHOP Learn different cooking techniques and tips to get the most out of your catch of the day. Sunday 27 March, 10am–3pm $190 per person www.fallsretreat.co.nz THE MEYER MELT CHALLENGE The ‘gratest’ cheese toastie challenge is back for its fourth year. 1–30 April www.waikatofoodinc.com FALLS RETREAT GARDENING WORKSHOP Full Monty Gardening Workshop – Our most comprehensive workshop covering all the fundamentals of growing nutrient dense, healthy veggies. Saturday 2 April and Saturday 7 May, 9.30am–3pm $150 per person www.fallsretreat.co.nz LEXUS URBAN POLO For the first time ever, The Lexus Urban Polo will be held in Tauranga at the Bay Oval. Lexus Urban Polo is famous for an unforgettable day of music, fashion, food and sport. Saturday April 2, 12–8.30pm $89–$229 per person Tickets www.urbanpolo.co.nz CBD PROGRESSIVE DINNER The CBD Events progressive dinner is back again for the fourth year in a row. Experience a degustation like no other, where each course is held at a different venue, all a short walk from each other. Wednesday May 4, 6pm Tickets via www.waikatofoodinc.com NOURISH AND LEXUS PINK RIBBON BREAKFAST Nourish and Lexus of Hamilton have proudly teamed up to support Breast Cancer Foundation NZ with a Pink Ribbon Breakfast. Tuesday 24 May, 9.30m $65 per person Tickets www.nourishmagazine.co.nz PAGE 74 | WWW.NOURISHMAGAZINE.CO.NZ
FLAVOURS OF PLENTY FESTIVAL Spanning Waihī beach, Te Puke, Tauranga, Mount Maunganui, Ōhope and Whakatāne, the inaugural Flavours of Plenty festival will be a celebration of the coastal Bay of Plenty’s worldclass food scene.
Art of Sourdough with Mount Sourdough A hands-on sourdough making course with the team at Mount Sourdough. April 7, 2–4pm $80 per person
Mediterranean Escape (in the Western Bay of Plenty) Discover and taste incredible products from the land of plenty: enjoy a tour and tasting at both Te Puke Truffles and Mystery Valley Olive Oil, then take a seat at The Trading Post French Bistro for an intimate degustation dinner. April 7, 2.30–8.30pm $95 per person
Come Dine with Pepper and Me A fun filled night at Elizabeth Café hosted by Tauranga’s one and only Cherie Metcalfe, the owner of the renowned Pepper & Me, Kit & Co, and Cain & Abel knives. April 7, 7–10.30pm $95 per person
Bay to Plate A curated 5-course tasting menu with chef Perrin Yates. Food and drink inspired by local growers, brewers and vinters. April 10, 12–4pm $220 per person
Plant-based Kings Feast Luncheon 3 courses with snacks and a glass of Pol Roger champagne on arrival, by Ian Harrison and the team at Sugo. April 10 $110 per person
For these events and more, visit www.flavoursofplentyfestival.com
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admin@savourthetaste.co.nz Ph: Paul 027 801 8219
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