VINAKA FIJI
A FINE FENNEL THINGS GO TO CUSTARD
ISSUE NO. 29 SPRING 2017
DAIRY QUEEN
WWW.NOURISHMAGAZINE.CO.NZ
FRESH LOCAL FLAVOUR WAIKATO, NZ
NOURISH | issue 29
Welcome to Nourish Magazine Yay spring is on its way! I know I am a big promoter of celebrating each season but it has been a very long, wet winter. Our escape to Fiji in June was a welcome respite. Read about it on page eight. In fact we had such a good time we are going again in March and would love you to join us. With spring in the air and the taste of food cooked on open fires still fresh in our memories from Fiji, we asked Brad from Falls Retreat to give us some tips on cooking in a woodfired oven (page 20), plus Justin from The Shack in Raglan shares with us some great recipes to inspire you to fire up the BBQ (page 59). Things turn to custard in the kitchen on page 29 with several variations on how to enjoy this dessert, from Portuguese custard tarts to coconut custard with rum grilled pineapple. As the weather warms up and the ground dries out there are more and more local events and activities on. Make sure you check out our events page on page 70, and this spring let’s all get out and about and enjoy our wonderful region.
Vicki Ravlich-Horan Editor
FOLLOW US nourishmagazine
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“Find a job you love and you will never work a day in your life” -Confucius
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HI, I’M ANGELA FINNIGAN FROM TAMAHERE. My focus is marketing and selling residential and lifestyle properties in the Waikato region specialising in Tamahere, Matangi and Cambridge areas. I have been one of Bayleys’ top selling lifestyle and residential agents for the past nine years. My venture into real estate stems from a love of architecture along with a passion for interior design. Bayleys provides me with the support I require to make the marketing and selling of a home as professional and stress free as possible. My approach is honest and enthusiastic and I enjoy taking care of people and the homes they value. If you are thinking of making a move, give me a call to discuss my unique approach to marketing and selling premium property.
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ANGELA FINNIGAN BAYLEYS' TOP SELLING LIFESTYLE AND RESIDENTIAL AGENT FOR THE PAST NINE YEARS.
021 623 550 | 07 834 3821 | angela.finnigan@bayleys.co.nz 96 Ulster Street , Hamilton, Waikato Success Realty Ltd, Bayleys | Licensed under the REA Act 2008
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regular 04 Vic’s Picks 06 News 32 Beauty & Fashion 33 Herbs 34 Gardening 37 Mrs Goodness 19 Wine Column 53 Local Art Scene 67 Book Review 70 Events 71 Directory
features
CREDITS Editor – Vicki Ravlich-Horan Designer – Sheryl Nicholson & Ashleigh Matthews Client Manager – Paula Baxter Proof Reader – Nikki Crutchley (Crucial Corrections) Contributors – Bronwyn Lowe, Henry Jacobs, Megan Coupland, Denise Irvine, Kate Underwood, Liz French, Jim Bartee, Kate Wilson, Rachel Hart, Esther Burnett Cover Image – Image Ashlee DeCaires, Styling – Vicki Ravlich-Horan Photographers – Vicki Ravlich-Horan, Brydie Thompson, Ashlee DeCaires Thanks to Susan Macey Laminex NZ, Destination Fiji, Bidfresh Hamilton ISSN 2324-4356 (Print) ISSN 2324-4364 (Online) Advertising Enquiries Vicki Ravlich-Horan sales@nourishmagazine.co.nz 07 8475321 or 0210651537
08 20 24 26 39 40 42 50 61 64 68
Vinaka Fiji Cooking with Fire Home-made Yoghurt Labneh Mr Salad The Fennel Phenomenon In the Burbs Sisters are doing it Spelt Dough Bros Sous Vide
recipes 14 21 29 41 48 49 52 54 59 62 66 69
Flavours of Fiji Bistro Chicken Pizza Custard Fennel Gratin Smoked Salmon, Lentil & Apple Salad The Kirk's Smoothie Bowl Punnet's Vegan Doughnuts Salmon Recipes BBQ Butterflied Leg of Lamb Spelt Recipes Ham Hock Salad Duck Confit
Vic’s Picks NOTHING BAD HAPPENS HERE
BREAKFAST AT EMBER
Nourish’s own proofreader extraordinaire Nikki Crutchley has been busy writing her first novel, Nothing Bad Happens Here.
Ember in Te Rapa has new owners. With a beautiful new menu launched last month the team are now ready to launch breakfasts, a first for Ember. Available from 7am on weekdays and 9am on the weekends, the brunch menu includes mouth-watering dishes like Mushroom Myriad—wood mushrooms, poached egg, garlic croutes, truffle hollandaise, and Corned Beef Hash—fennel, pickled vegetables, crumbed poached egg.
The body of missing tourist Bethany Haliwell is found in the small Coromandel town of Castle Bay, where nothing bad ever happens. News crews and journalists from all over the country descend on the small seaside town as old secrets are dragged up and gossip is taken as gospel. Among them is Miller Hatcher, a journalist battling her own demons, who arrives intent on gaining a promotion by covering the grisly murder. Following an anonymous tip, Miller begins to unravel the mystery of the small town. And when another woman goes missing, Miller finds herself getting closer to the truth. But at what cost? I personally can’t wait to get my hands on a copy and hide away for the day reading it! You can get a copy from Paper Plus (Te Awamutu, Cambridge, Te Awa, Rototuna and Otorohanga) and Penny’s Bookstore Chartwell or www. nikkicrutchley.com and as an ebook from Amazon and Kobo.
This spring don’t just consider Ember for after work cocktails or dinner, they can also get your day off to a great start! Ember, 62 Church Road, Hamilton | www.ember.net.nz
WHOLE HEART Organic Shopping just got a lot easier with Whole Heart opening in Queenwood Village. Owner Claire Preston has a background in fashion retail and this is reflected in the gorgeous shop that offers fresh organic produce plus a growing range of organic whole foods. “I have always been into eating well,” explains Claire, who says since having a family her priorities have shifted and owning an organic/whole food store in Hamilton was something her and husband were keen to do. They believe Queenwood Village is the perfect location and hope to make it easier for people and families to access organic produce, whole foods and holistic health products. Whole Heart, Queenwood Village, Hamilton.
A CELEBRATION OF LOCAL PRODUCE AND GOOD TIMES gluten free, dairy free & vegan options available
250 Victoria Street, Hamilton 07 834 2363 | www.doughbros.co.nz
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Suppliers of award winning local Suppliers of award cheesemakers, winning local Cilantro cheesemakers, Cilantro Call us to discover the full range from their famous Cherve, halloumi, ricotta and their amazing Cajeta everyone is talking about. Call us to discover the full range from their famous Cherve, halloumi, ricotta and their amazing Cajeta everyone is talking about.
THE PERFECT SOLUTION TO YOUR FRESH MENU REQUIREMENTS CONTACT GUS TISSINK
0800 346 3366 | 027 241 3090 | gus.tissink@bidfood.co.nz
THE PERFECT SOLUTION TO YOUR FRESH MENU REQUIREMENTS CONTACT GUS TISSINK E S E 346 3366 | 027 241 3090 | gus.tissink@bidfood.co.nz & C H E0800 ER
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Waikato News Congratulations to the team at The Skin Spa in Te Awamutu for taking out the Customer Choice Award at the recent Waipa Business Network Awards.
ENJOY THE VIP EXPERIENCE AT MARY POPPINS For a practically perfect experience, Spoilt For Choice has a range of packages available for the unmissable, strictly limited season of Mary Poppins! Host clients and colleagues over a spectacular evening show, enjoy a magical afternoon with family or grab a friend and snap up a ticket to our chim chiminey cocktail night. This is one show you do not want to miss! www.spoiltforchoice.co.nz
IGUANA For 21 years Iguana has been a mainstay in Hamilton. Many a celebration, great meal and memories have been created in this icon of the Waikato hospitality scene. New owners Lalit Kumar and Michael Yorston are keen to build on what has made Iguana great while injecting some new life. As two accomplished chefs who have worked with some of New Zealand’s best they are very qualified to do just this. “As soon as I walked in, I loved it,” says Lalit on discovering Iguana. Lalit and Michael have been working together for several years and Michael says, “This was a great opportunity for us to both step up.” The pair plan to condense and revitalise the menu with more of a focus on fresh, local and seasonal produce. Michael is quick to point out though that they are also keen to hear feedback from loyal Iguana patrons. “Our job,” he says, “is to ensure customers enjoy their night and meal.” With a new night menu sorted, work on relaunching lunches this spring will begin along with other exciting plans for special events and themed nights. Head along to Iguana this spring and welcome them to Hamilton.
DANTE’S FINE FOODS IN CAMBRIDGE HAS A NEW OWNER.
PROF’S EXPANDS Prof’s @ Woodlands recently expanded with a new site, Prof’s on Alexander opening in August. INTRODUCING WALLIS BISTRO Justin and Alix Thomson from The Shack in Raglan are also expanding their empire. They recently bought The Local Eatery on Wallis Street (Raglan) and are relaunching it as the Wallis Bistro this spring with a focus on lunch, dinner and drinks.
Kelly Mita-Skeet says, “When the opportunity to purchase Dante’s popped up, I jumped at the chance as I loved the shop.” Kelly, who lives on a lifestyle block in Cambridge with her three children, says, “I can also see that there is so much more opportunity to expand on it in the near future.” In the meantime though, Kelly believes she is lucky to be doing something she is passionate about, meeting and learning from different people and enjoying the wonderful business Vicki has created.
07 825 7444 | 6 WALLIS ST, RAGLAN
shop@herbalrescue.co.nz theherbaldispensaryraglan.co.nz
We make our own Herbal Creams using real herbs, getting real results, hand made in small batches
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Waikato News 2017 MATARIKI DISH CHALLENGE For the third year running, Waikato eateries up for the challenge competed in Waikato Food Inc’s Matariki Dish Challenge. The Challenge dares Waikato restaurants and cafes to create a dish that celebrates Matariki (the Māori New Year) as well as local produce. Competition in this year’s challenge was fierce, a reflection of the immense talent in the region. Diners were treated to dishes like steamed tuatua, kawakawa and fennel broth with pickled pikopiko; paua and kina brulee with sea-grape and horopito salad, pickled bush mushrooms, crayfish oil and ratatouille vegetables with chilli koura, fennel with mussels and paua wrapped in seaweed. It’s not all about the food though with judges looking at each entrant’s service, the knowledge of their staff and their ability to promote the challenge. This year’s challenge culminated in an amazing gala dinner prize giving at the Gallagher Performing Arts Centre at the University of Waikato. Guests were treated to a divine three course meal created by Kahurangi head chef Tim Carter.
With over a hundred guests, including the who’s who of our hospitality industry, this must have been a tough crowd to cook for! An amuse bouche of kina custard and kelp crumb started things off well, followed with dishes like ‘Quack a Duck’: duck breast with celeriac and chive puree, pickled foraged mushrooms, beetroot gel and crispy skin and Zealong oolong tea and cardamom pannacotta with kawakawa kaffir lime syrup, black sesame brittle, passionfruit gel, organic manuka honey popcorn and passionfruit powder. With happy taste buds and bellies, it was time to announce the winners.
WINNERS FOR 2017 RESTAURANT CATEGORY
CAFÉ CATEGORY
Palate Finalists Crudo and Agenda
Gather Foodhouse Finalists Profs @ Woodlands
coffee - cakes - good times 201 Sandwich Road, St Andrews, Hamilton HUGE SUNNY TERRACE | OPEN TILL 5PM EVERYDAY
www.cinnamoncafe.co.nz
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vinaka fiji Drive five minutes in any direction when you arrive in Fiji and you will come across sugar cane. Once the biggest industry of this Island nation, it now comes second to tourism. With its year-long tropical climate and close proximity to New Zealand and Australia, it is little wonder tourism has become such a key part of the Fijian economy. Yet it seems this booming tourism industry is in spite of their food, even though food, or the production of it, is still such a key part of their economy. Overpriced and underwhelming resort food has a lot to answer for in a country that produces everything from cacao to ginger, basil to coconut as well as premium luxury products like chocolate, rum and vanilla. Knowing Fiji must have some great food stories and believing the best way to see and understand a country is through their food, the Nourish team organised a winter getaway to uncover a slice of the real Fiji. Our inaugural foodie tour also turned out to be a first for Fiji, making it to the local paper! An indication food tourism truly is in its infancy here. What we uncovered after four whirlwind days is four days is not nearly enough time! We had only scratched the surface yet we came home with an appreciation and fondness for the people who make up this wonderful Pacific Island, new skills and tastes in the kitchen and many wonderful stories. Our first full day saw us set off early, heading south from our base in Denarau and driving to the ‘salad bowl’ of Fiji—Sigatoka. This was our first glimpse of the real Fiji.
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SIGATOKA RIVER SAFARIS This award winning company is doing more than producing a memorable day out for tourists. The dream began when founder Jay White, an Aussie, first visited Fiji at the age of 13. He met Pita Matasau, a security guard at the resort Jay and his family were staying at. Jay became Pita’s shadow, following him everywhere listening to his stories of Fiji. So Pita invited Jay and his family to his village, Draiba, a two-hour drive into the Fijian interior. Jay and his family were captivated—by the people, village life and the culture. It was the start of something big. The following year Jay and his family visited New Zealand and while here took a jet boat ride, and the idea was born. At just 14 Jay had the idea of taking tourists by jet boat up the Sigatoka River to visit real Fijian villages. Just over a decade later, in 2005, the dream started coming true. Jay moved to Fiji where he and now good friend Pita became business partners, and in March 2006 they led their first Sigatoka River Safari. We are lucky enough to have Josh Ratukuna (aka Captain Jack) as our guide for the day. Josh has been with the company from the start and is well suited for the role.
NOURISH | feature We pick up Josh at Sigatoka town and drive to their base. Following this great river which is still a main mode of local transport, we see the lush fields growing everything from taro to ginger, kava to salad greens. We made a quick stop to discover coffee growing wild! But more about that later. Once at Sigatoka River Safaris base we board a specially adapted four-wheel drive. It has something-or-other horsepower and a 1960-something Landrover engine. Forgive me for not recalling the exact details but as Captain Jack reels these off things have got a little bumpy. As we all hang on for dear life we pass through local villages where children run out to wave and shout “bula”; we see people at work in the fields and going about their day on horseback. We have got that much closer to the real Fiji. Forty-five minutes later we arrive at Vunaqoru Village, home to over 250 people. We are welcomed into the village with a traditional kava ceremony before having a guided tour of the village and then sit down to a beautifully prepared traditional meal. Our time in the village ends with some gifts from us to the villagers and much singing and dancing. Back to the river we don lifejackets and board the jet boat for a scenic ride back to base with a few thrills added in. Sigatoka River Safaris work with 15 local villages so the tours do not encroach on village life and a good balance is struck between tourism and the real Fijian village experience. www.sigatokariver.com
FLAVOURS OF FIJI A local market is one of the best places to get a feel and understanding for the local food. It’s our second day in Fiji and we have been whisked off to Nadi Market by Lia and Arti from Flavours of Fiji. Our market excursion is just the beginning of a day where we will get hands-on in creating some home-style Fijian dishes. Every morning villages bring their produce into town to sell, making the market a snapshot of what is fresh and in season as well as what Fijians eat every day. Gorgeous baby pineapples sit beside ripe pawpaw and bunches of bananas. Piles of tiny chillies lay out on newspaper next to fresh greens, bundles of beans and dishes of eggplants. Lia and Arti lead us around answering our many questions and giving us the local low-down before taking us off to Flavours of Fiji’s purpose built cooking school.
Our first lesson is on traditional Fijian food and starts with a lesson on cracking and scraping a coconut. The menu includes fish cooked in the super fresh coconut milk we just made, bush fern (similar to pikopiko) salad and a dessert with plantain. After sitting down to enjoy the fruits of our labour, it’s time to get back in the kitchen. This time we are cooking Indo Fijian cuisine with a chicken and potato curry (see my adapted version on page 18) along with handmade roti. The classes are the most efficient, well-choreographed lesson I have ever had. Our group consists of cooks of all skill level, yet everyone keeps up, learns new things and has a wonderful time, not to mention a delicious lunch.
BULA COFFEE I never thought it would be Fiji where I first saw coffee growing. Who knew coffee grew in Fiji? It does. In fact it literally grows wild! How it got there, no one knows for sure, but what is happening with this wild coffee is a remarkable story. After discovering coffee growing wild, Luke Frett and his family started Bula Coffee and has built the Fijian coffee industry from the ground up. In 2011 the company processed 200kgs of coffee beans and they are on track to make this 3000 tonnes in 2020. Bula Coffee have a partnership based on the philosophy that “they shake the hands that pick the coffee”. This sees them work directly with over 500 villagers, supporting them to become organically certified, teaching them to process the cherries into beans and create a sustainable living. As the beans are harvested and processed they are brought by truck, boat or horseback to Bula Coffee’s base in Sigatoka. After seeing the coffee growing, we followed it to their HQ to see and hear what happens next. The only Fijian coffee company that can say it is ‘Fijian made’ as well as ‘Fijian grown’, Bula Coffee say they are not only producing great shots of coffee but giving Fijian Villages a better shot at life. As a flat white drinker, I need someone to do something about the milk situation in Fiji!
2017
Finalist 2017
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NOURISH | feature
FIJIAN CACAO
HOT GLASS FIJI
Our five days in Fiji saw us enjoy refreshing coconuts, coconut vodka, rum, all manner of tropical fruit, local staples like taro and cassava, the freshest fish possible and coffee. What more could one want?
Not entirely a foodie stop, but a fun one none the less! While on the Coral Coast we popped into Fiji Hot Glass. Sara Hill’s open-air studio has splendid views of the coast and it is here she works her magic with glass, creating pieces of art and sharing her skills with visitors.
Chocolate perhaps? Luckily, we discovered this too. In 1883 the very first consignment of Trinidad cacao seeds survived the voyage from the Royal Botanical Gardens in England to Fiji. A hundred years later, despite cacao flourishing in the Fijian environment, there was no Fijian cacao industry. That was until Tomohito and Harumi Zukoshi fell in love with the country and in 2005 moved from Japan with their three children, to Savusavu, an idyllic bay on Fiji’s second biggest island Vanua Levu. Here they set up a sushi restaurant but it was to be their accidental discovery of cacao that changed their fortunes. Tomo says, “In Savusavu, we encountered beautifully painted cacao pods. We fell in love with the nature of the fruit and indulged in the art of making chocolate in our restaurant.” The process of making chocolate from fresh cacao beans is a lot more complicated than Tomo lets on! The results of his experimentation was a homemade chocolate ice cream that proved so popular, in 2007 the couple decided to give up the restaurant business and manufacture Fijian chocolate. To do this the pair had to first reinvigorate the cacao industry in Fiji. “In the beginning, we worked to revitalise these discarded plantations in Vanua Levu. We pruned 50 metre high ivy that covered old cacao trees. After all our efforts, the flowers started to bloom and by 2008 we could see beautiful crops.” We visited Tomo and Harumi in their state of the art factory and heard first hand this amazing story, while tasting some truly fine chocolate. Fijian Cacao is dedicated to manufacturing 100% Fijian made chocolate, and this starts with the grassroots farmers who grow the beans. “From the start,” Tomo says, “we took it upon ourselves to help educate local farmers about the best practices for producing quality cacao beans. This included the creation of a post-harvest fermentation toolkit for use by farmers, which helps them produce higher quality beans and fetch premium prices for their cacao. In addition, our dedicated farm manager conducts regular site visits and provides hands-on help to farmers. These efforts are helping improve the livelihoods of rural farming communities while also growing Fiji’s cacao industry.”
Sara trained and worked as a glass blower in the UK before meeting husband Alex. The keen scuba divers set off diving around the world before settling in Fiji and starting a family. Glass is the ideal medium to catch the stunning light and colours of the tropics, and the beauty of Fiji’s nature is often reflected in Sara’s work. www.hotglassfiji.com
THE FIJI ORCHID Our magnificent five days in Fiji is capped off in the best way possible with a stunning meal at The Fiji Orchid. We arrived at the magnificent property, once the treasured property of Raymond Burr (famous for playing Perry Mason) and now an exclusive luxury lodge with stunning orchid gardens. We were welcomed by the team with a Fijian rum and cocktail tasting before learning more about the property and how they are embracing the farm to table philosophy. Miti, the manager, shows us their newly established kitchen garden and tells of their work to highlight Fijian cuisine. What follows is a feast! Our table is piled high with dish after dish of Fijian delicacies from eggplant baked with tuna, fresh kokoda, steamed taro, succulent pork, chicken curry, bush fern salad, whole baked fish and more. As we sit around the table after yet another magnificent meal it dawns on us our time in Fiji is at an end. It has been a truly fantastic time with experiences and memories that will last a lifetime, but what we all take away is a better understanding and connection with Fiji, its people and food. We would like to thank Destination Fiji for helping us organise this amazing week and being brilliant hosts! www.destinationfiji.co.nz
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NOURISH | tours
We had such an amazing time in Fiji with our inaugural tour we have decided to do it again. If six days of tropical sunshine surrounded by great people and fabulous food, discovering a real taste of Fiji sounds like a great idea, join us this March.
FOODIES TOUR 2018 MARCH 19–25
This is an amazing all-inclusive tour staying at the luxurious Naisoso Island Villas (Best Serviced Luxury Villas in Fiji, 2016 World Luxury Hotel Awards) includes • • • • • • • • • • •
all your breakfasts, dinners and 5 lunches airfares and transfers nightly cocktails flavours of Fiji cooking school chocolate Factory Tour Sigatoka River Safari Trip Bula Coffee Tour Fiji Hot Glass demonstration Lautoka day out Whale’s Tale island day trip plus, lots more!
$4275 per person (twin share) BOOK BEFORE 1 NOVEMBER AND RECEIVE A NOURISH GOODIE BAG WORTH OVER $200! Don’t delay! This is a small group tour and spaces are very limited. www.nourishmagazine.co.nz/fiji2018
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NOURISH | recipes
If there are a couple of stand-out flavours that capture the flavour of Fiji it has to be smoke and coconut.
Smokey Coconut
Fijian villagers still cook with fire. This is why their kitchens are separate buildings to their main houses and why their food has a wonderful smokey flavour. The only way to replicate this flavour in NZ is to go back to the BBQs of our youth, before the gas versions became commonplace, or if you are lucky enough to have one, to use a wood fired pizza oven. See page 10 for Brad’s (from Falls Retreat) tips on cooking with fire. Like many Pacific Islands, coconuts play an important part in Fiji. Every part of the coconut is used from the leaves to the fibre, oil to wood. Everywhere you go fresh coconuts are cracked for a refreshing drink. The older coconuts are cracked and fleshed to make fresh coconut cream, and trust me, this is a world away from the tinned version we have in New Zealand!
While in Sangatoka we visited Fiji Hot Glass and saw glass being blown before our eyes. Being a foodie tour, we had to partake in a few drinks—in this case a delicious local coconut vodka we sipped out of stunning handmade glasses moulded from old coconut shells. Nibbles to accompany our vodka was coconut chips roasted before our eyes in the glass being blown. This was a great party trick I will never be able to replicate; the results though I think I have cracked. TO MAKE YOU WILL NEED a mature (brown) coconut 2 cups water 2 tbsp salt 2 tbsp liquid smoke (available from Bethlehem Butchery and Dante’s Fine Foods in Cambridge) Split the coconut and remove the flesh in chunks. Cut these pieces into similar size slices (approx. 2–3mm thick). Mix the water, salt and liquid smoke together and add the coconut chips. You may also want to add a good pinch of chilli powder or flakes. Soak overnight then drain. Bake at 180°C for 10 minutes or until the coconut is golden brown. Allow to cool before serving.
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Kokoda (RAW FISH SALAD)
Serves 6 / Gluten and dairy free There is little wonder Kokoda features on menus throughout Fiji. Kokoda exemplifies everything that is great about Fiji.
½ kg very fresh fish (in Fiji we loved Spanish mackerel but in NZ warehou, tarakihi, snapper will all work)
Cut the fish into 1cm cubes (preferable to discard any darkened cubes). In a bowl, mix the fish and the lemon juice to marinate for two to three hours, or until the fish is opaque.
juice of 6–8 lemons 2–3 tomatoes, finely chopped
Drain the fish and add the tomato, spring onions, chilli, coconut milk and salt. Mix well and serve immediately, garnished with fresh coriander.
3–4 spring onions, finely sliced 1 chilli, finely diced (optional) 1 x 400g tin coconut milk, chilled salt to taste fresh coriander to garnish
Whole Fish WRAPPED IN BANANA LEAF
Much like fish en papillote, cooking fish wrapped in banana leaf results in a tender fish steamed in an aromatic parcel. The banana leaf will add a little flavour but is not meant to be eaten. If you can’t find banana leaves (we got ours from Bidfresh Hamilton but you can try the frozen section of Asian stores) you can use tin foil.
We used snapper and I prefer doing a couple of small ones than one large one. Note the cooking time will depend on the size of your fish, the recipe is based on a 500–750g gutted fish.
Make three to five slits on each side of the fish. Fill its cavity with some of the lime, ginger, garlic, (chilli and tomato if using) and coriander, sprinkling the remaining over the fish. Drizzle with fish sauce.
1 whole fish
1 tbsp fish sauce
Wrap the fish in the banana leaf and secure with string. Grill over a medium heat for 10–15 minutes on each side, depending on the size of the fish. Alternatively, you can bake your fish parcel in the oven at 180°C for 20–30 minutes.
1 lime, sliced
Unwrap fish and serve immediately.
1–2 large banana leaves 1–2 cloves garlic 2 tbsp ginger, grated handful of fresh coriander
Optional: chilli, diced tomato
Celebrate yOur next gathering at Hayes COmmOn Full and semi private hire packages available with canapé or banquet menu, craft beer and selected wine list.
Email events@hayescommon.co.nz or phone 027 537 1853
hayescommon.co.nz
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Murghi and Aalu Curry
(CHICKEN AND POTATO CURRY)
An undoubtable influence on the cuisine in Fiji, which sets it apart from other Pacific Islands, is that of the Indians. Now referred to as Indo Fijian, Indian people have been part of Fiji for over 130 years. Originally brought over by the British as indentured servants, Fijians of Indian descent account for nearly 40% of the Fijian population, and so it is unsurprising their food is now entrenched in the culture, and a good place to see this is in the markets. While at Nadi Market, we were enticed by the spice stalls, and I left with a pouch of specially blended masala which I intend to reserve for a few of the dishes we discovered in Fiji, and this is one of them. The original recipe for this curry (from Flavours of Fiji) used a whole chicken chopped into smaller pieces, and while chicken cooked on the bone has more flavour, I have found chicken thigh is quicker while still giving you flavoursome and moist chicken.
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Having said that you can replace the chicken with eggplant for a vegetarian version. Serves 6 1kg chicken thighs, boneless and skinless 1 onion, sliced 6 cloves garlic, minced 2 tomatoes, chopped 1 tsp salt 2 tbsp oil 1 heaped tsp cumin seeds 1 heaped tsp mustard seeds 2 tbsp turmeric 3 tbsp masala 1–2 tsp chilli powder (optional) 3 medium potatoes, peeled and chopped into medium sized cubes ½ cup water fresh coriander to garnish
Chop chicken thighs into thirds. In a medium size pot, heat up oil, add onion, seeds and tomatoes. Stir and cook for a minute then add minced garlic together with the turmeric, masala and chilli powder. Stir and cook for another minute before adding the potato, water and salt. Cover and reduce the heat to medium. After 10 minutes add the chicken, stir and replace the lid, cooking for another 15 minutes or until the potato is soft and chicken cooked through. If there is too much liquid, remove the lid in the last 5 minutes of cooking. Serve garnished with fresh coriander accompanied with rice and roti.
THE MADNESS OF WINE No rocket science is needed to work out that supermarkets sell a HUGE amount of wine. They are very, very good at it. There are wine categories they excel in: The sub $10 price bracket across nearly all wine varieties; $12.99 is their new magic number. 'Household name' Champagne brands: Moet, Veuve Cliquot, Mumm, and Piper Heidsieck sell when on special. One of the most confounding things for many wine customers is seeing wine standing on the shelves where you have to ask: 'What is that doing here?' We get quizzed, asked and told often how you are surprised to see the likes of Te Mata Coleraine, Penfolds Grange Shiraz and Craggy Range Le Sol not only there in your local supermarket, but standing up under bright lights: day after day, week after week. The reasons for this relate to trying to incentivise bulk purchase of brands into grocery and other forms of liquor retailing. For example, both the suppliers of Te Mata Estate and Penfolds allocate their super premium wines to customers who purchase their other brands. The amount of Coleraine you receive depends on the amount of other Te Mata wines you purchase. Supermarkets sell a very large amount of their lower tier wines: the Te Mata Estate Range. They are therefore allocated a very large amount of the Coleraine, which they in turn often have to discount to sell through. On the other side of the coin, the fine wine retailers are more and more reluctant to purchase the 'Estate Range' wines as they know they will be heavily discounted by supermarket, the brand becomes devalued. Over time the effects of this strategy have created the situation where
very few fine wine stores carry the very items that customers perceive they should have. The Granges, Coleraines and Le Sols, sometimes more than one vintage, are left sitting on the supermarket shelves. There are many parts of the fine wine retail puzzle. The pieces that make it up are ever evolving and changing. The great news is for the wine buyer there is always something of interest out there. Whether it is a brilliant special at a supermarket after they have had their ‘awards’ promotion, or a funky, new highly decorated rarity at a fine retailer.
Henry Jacobs primovino.co.nz
ONLINE ORDERS NOW AVAILABLE DELIVERY NATIONWIDE www.magills.co.nz
0800 624 455 | admin@magills.co.nz OPEN 7AM – 6PM DAILY 81 B Jacobs Street, Te Awamutu
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NOURISH | feature
Cooking with
By Brad King | Falls Retreat
The wood fired oven is the heart of our kitchen at The Falls Retreat. Built by hand using guidelines from The Shed magazine, help from friends and family and tips and advice picked up along the way, it was a labour of love. It has stood the test of time and over the years it has pumped out thousands of meals. It’s a good oven to work with—I can always see what’s in there as there is no door on during service and it’s in my line of vision. It can do everything a conventional oven can do. On our current menu, we use it to sear lamb and beef fillets, slow roast lamb rump, bake bread and reheat accompaniments. But our wood fired oven’s biggest achievement has to be the hundreds of pizzas it produces, with fresh produce grown in the kitchen veggie gardens being used in the seasonally changing toppings.
BRAD'S TIPS AND TRICKS: Temperature control: The skill in wood fired cooking is all about how to control the temperature without turning a knob. As we use our oven on a daily basis, our temperature remains pretty consistent, but for weekend users, make sure you give your oven plenty of time to warm up before you start cooking. Get yourself an infra-red thermometer to take the guess work out of it. Wood: The type of wood used is also important as it can impart flavours into the food. Any hard wood is ideal. We use a mix of manuka and kanuka, and fruit trees if we can get hold of any. Technique: Place wood in the centre of the oven, make fire and burn till it starts to bloom (when the inside of oven starts to turn white). Then move the wood to one side (we change the side the wood burns on, on a weekly basis) to make sure our oven temperature remains even. Slowly add wood to keep the fire burning and temperature consistent. Once cooking has finished, let it die down and spread embers before putting on the door at end of day.
FALLS RETREAT 25 Waitawheta Rd, Waihi, www.fallsretreat.co.nz
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BISTRO CHICKEN PIZZA serves 8
This is a twist on a classic pizza using our home made apricot chutney on the base, rather than a traditional tomato sugo. The salsa and chutney can be prepared in advance and used for other recipes.
ROASTED RED PEPPER, CORNICHON & JALAPENO SALSA
Simmer for 5 minutes and then add apricots and apples and keep reducing at a medium simmer for 45–50 minutes until it becomes a thick consistency.
125g roasted red peppers (tinned variety) 20g cornichons, drained and thinly sliced 15g capers, drained and roughly chopped 40g pitted black Kalamata olives, finely sliced 20g jalapenos, finely chopped 100g sundried tomatoes, drained and roughly chopped ¼ cup curly parsley, finely chopped 2 tsp chives, finely chopped
Add a pinch of sea salt and ground black pepper.
Put all ingredients into a large bowl and mix till well combined. Please ensure all products from jars are drained thoroughly.
APRICOT & APPLE CHUTNEY 1 medium red onion, diced 5 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped 70g ginger, peeled and finely chopped 1 red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped 2 tsp ground coriander 2 tsp ground cumin 2 tsp finely chopped thyme 350g caster sugar 400ml white wine vinegar 800g apricots, halved (tinned in clear juice can be used, drained = 3 x 410g tins) 200g medium Granny Smith apples, cored, peeled and diced Place first 9 ingredients into a large heavy based saucepan and bring to the boil.
"GATHER"
AT THE FALLS RETREAT Experience a "behind the scenes" personal tour of the property encompassing veggie gardens, chicken coop, and extensive grounds, taking in an amazing view of Owharoa Falls. This is an opportunity to gather ingredients and learn about how fresh seasonal produce is used from the paddock to plate, followed by a delicious two course lunch. Details: Available Fridays & Saturdays through spring. $95pp includes; morning tea, personal garden tour, two course lunch. Bookings essential! Email - info@fallsretreat.co.nz
Pour into a suitable container and let cool for 30 minutes then place covered into a fridge and chill for 24 hours.
TO MAKE THE PIZZA 1 pizza base (for Brad’s recipe go to our website) 3 tbsp apricot and apple chutney 90g grated mozzarella 110g cooked chicken breast 1 zucchini, thinly sliced 3 tbsp roasted red pepper, cornichon and jalapeno salsa Firstly, smear apricot chutney evenly over the pizza base. Sprinkle grated mozzarella over the chutney then lay over zucchini, followed by chicken. Add the salsa then drizzle with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Remember: less is more, you don’t want to overload the pizza! Cook in the oven until crispy and golden. In a wood fired oven heated to the correct temperature, this should only take around 4 minutes. Tip: to help manoeuvre the pizza into the wood oven, use a dusting of semolina on your paddle, as this acts like a marble, helping to move the base around. (Cooking will be longer in a conventional oven, around 7–10 minutes. Use a preheated baking tray or stone.)
As we head into spring, I see the spring challenges start to appear all around me. Detox for spring; Weight loss for spring; Spring wellness; Declutter for spring. I start to get overwhelmed thinking that spring is going to be a busy time, and an expectation that it needs to be a productive season for me. I need to detox my body, lose weight, start a wellness challenge, clean my personal space along with my headspace and the list goes on … All these things to do before summer arrives. Not much time for anything else if I am doing all of this! This year I have decided to take a different approach to spring. This spring will be the season of change, but not in any of the above ways. It will be the season of not being overwhelmed with competing priorities. It will be the season to take control of my time and what I do with it. It will be the season to look at all these challenges and know it is okay to walk my own path. Care to join me? The most relevant spring challenge that I see is that we are all so busy, being busy! What is becoming more apparent to me is the number of women who are feeling overwhelmed. Women chasing that elusive balance and not knowing where to start. Women needing time for themselves but not able to make the space or feeling guilty to even try. So what is the solution? Actually just two little words—STOP IT. Stop saying yes to everything that comes your way. Nobody expects you to be all things to all people. Start to say no to things you don't want to do or things that don’t serve you. If you really can't say no to something, it’s okay to say, “I can’t at the moment but I can on Friday.” At the end of the day it comes down to you. It’s you who is creating those boundaries and you taking control of what you choose to do or not. I could go on and talk about lots of strategies but that in itself would be overwhelming, so let’s keep it simple. Simply spring, now that has a nice ring to it! Spring, the season of self-care, whatever that looks like for you. Not for anyone else, but just for you. Walk your path your way—whether that is with a spring in your step or a gentle stroll. Be courageously you and do spring simply! If you need some help reducing the feeling of being overwhelmed, or general life coaching, let’s chat on the phone and see if I can help.
Kathie Hill left her corporate career in the city to develop her personal coaching and human resources businesses and create a nourishing lifestyle for herself in the Coromandel. Through UnlimitedU, Kathie helps people figure out what their most satisfying life might look like and coaches them towards their goals. Kathie enjoys sharing coffee and conversation with lovely friends, barefoot beach walks and witnessing people’s joy when they are empowered to make positive life changes. Connect with me: Kathie@unlimitedu.co.nz or www.unlimitedu.co.nz
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DAIRY QUEEN With the growing popularity of nut milks you may be thinking traditional dairy milk is bad for you. The truth is, unless you practice a vegan diet or you are lactose intolerant, milk has many health benefits. Milk is high in calcium, protein and vitamin D, B and A, Niacin and potassium.
WE RECOMMEND Like with most food we look for milk that is as true to its natural form as possible. Milk that has had as little processing or fiddling with as possible and Jersey Girl milk fits this bill. Produced from their happy cows on an organic farm in Matamata the milk is pasteurised and then bottled. The milk is not homogenised and has had nothing removed or added back. Look out for their great new glass bottles! Available at the Waikato Farmers Market and great local stores like Whole Heart in Queenwood
AMBIENCE OF A VICTORIAN COUNTRY ESTATE + beautifully crafted food + warmly welcoming service = impactful dining and social experience
Prof ’s @ Woodlands
42 Whitikahu Road, Gordonton | 027 469 0694 Follow us Prof ’s at Woodlands See menus and more at www.profs.co.nz
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home-made
Yoghurt One of the reasons I love making homemade yoghurt is I know exactly what is in it, down to the type of milk I choose to use. No milk powder full of emulsifiers, lecithin and soy! I choose the least fiddled with version of milk I can find, like the beautiful non-homogenised Jersey Girl milk. words & recipesVICKI RAVLICH-HORAN | photography ASHLEE DECAIRES
Every day goodies and special occasion treats, we’ve got it covered 337 Newell Rd, Hamilton
www.punnet.co.nz
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NOURISH | techniques
The other benefit of fresh homemade yoghurt is all the good bugs or live cultures you’ll be feeding your gut. Gut health is an essential part of your overall wellbeing. Like many convenience foods, mass produced yoghurt may save us a little bit of time but it also produces a lot of waste, mainly in the form of packaging. With all of this in mind why not give it a go.
you will need: 750mls milk 3 tbsp fresh natural yoghurt* a thermometer (I use a milk thermometer available from The Scullery, Victoria Street) glass jars a chilly bin or large thermos * It's important to use an unsweetened version that contains live cultures, but the fat content doesn't matter. If you are using a chilly bin as your incubator, fill it with enough near boiling water to come over halfway up your jars and allow it to cool until it is 55°C. I use a small polystyrene chilly bin that fits 6 small 250ml jars, but you would need a larger one if using one big jar. Alternatively, if you have an Easyo you can use this, which is, in essence, little more than a large thermos. Next heat 2 cups of the milk until it reaches 85°C. Take it off the heat and place the pot in a sink of icy water and cool the milk down as quickly as possible to 45°C. While the milk is cooling, mix the starter yoghurt with the remaining cup of milk. Mix the two milk mixtures together and stir well, then pour into jars and screw their lids on. Place the jars in your chilly bin or thermos, cover and allow to incubate undisturbed for 6–9 hours. Refrigerate the yoghurt for at least four hours before using. And remember to save a little of your yoghurt for your next batch!
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Originating from the Middle East, labneh is a light and very versatile soft cheese made from yoghurt. Used in both sweet and savoury dishes, making labneh is super simple and rewarding.
you will need: thick unsweetened yoghurt (the homemade version above is perfect, otherwise choose a thick Greek variety) cheesecloth or muslin a large bowl wooden spoon
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Place the yoghurt in the cheese cloth/muslin and tie over a wooden spoon, suspending this over a large jug or bowl. Place in the fridge and allow the whey from the yoghurt to drain. I tend to do this overnight as it takes a good 8–10 hours. Once the whey has been removed you are left with a very thick cheese. If using in a savoury dish, season with salt, approx. 1 teaspoon per 2 cups of yoghurt used. If using it in sweet dishes sweeten to taste with honey or icing sugar.
NOURISH | techniques
LABNEH HERB BALLS Roll the labneh into small balls and then roll these in dried herbs, or my favourite zaatar (a Middle Eastern spice mix available from good food stores like Dante’s Fine Foods in Cambridge). Place the yoghurt balls in a jar and cover with a good extra virgin olive oil and refrigerate until ready to use. These tasty little balls are then ready to be put on an antipasto or cheese board or pulled out one at a time to be smeared on crackers, crostini or sandwiches.
OTHER SERVING SUGGESTIONS Serve with roasted baby carrots, a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and your favourite dukkha. Sweeten with honey and smear on toasted Volare Fig and Walnut Loaf with roasted grapes. Perfect for brunch with a class of rosĂŠ or bubbles. Make an easy dessert. Crumble shortbread or savadori biscuits in the bottom of a glass. Spoon over berry coulis. Top this with labneh, sweetened slightly with icing sugar. Garnish with fresh berries and some chopped pistachios.
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oh my!
custard words & recipes VICKI RAVLICH-HORAN | photography ASHLEE DECAIRES
FLOWERS | JEWELLERY | GIFTS 196 Alexandra Street, Te Awamutu 07 871 2920 | thebird-cage.co.nz
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NOURISH | recipes
Pasteis De Nata I once spent three days in Portugal and believe I lived entirely on these addictive custard bites and the occasional tipple of Port. With such fond memories I am always tempted when I see a Portuguese custard tart for sale. Unfortunately these seldom live up to my memory, so I have to resort to making them myself. Thankfully for my waistline these little tarts require a little effort, but trust me, they are worth it! Homemade pastry makes all the difference! A great Portuguese custard tart has crisp flaky pastry that you can see the layers in. If you are going to cheat and buy the pastry, make sure you buy a good quality flaky pastry like Paneton pastry available from Dante’s Fine Foods in Cambridge, Red Kitchen in Te Awamutu and The Country Providore, Tamahere
PASTRY 3 cups flour 1¼ cups cold water 225g butter, soft
CUSTARD ¼ cup flour 2 cups full fat milk 1⅓ cups sugar 1 tsp vanilla extract 1 cinnamon stick (optional) 6 egg yolks (size 7)
Using a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook, mix the flour and water until a soft, pillowy dough forms that pulls away from the side of the bowl. Cover the dough and allow it to rest for 15 minutes.
To make the custard, heat the milk, 1 cup of the sugar, vanilla and cinnamon to just before boiling then take off the heat. Whisk the egg yolks, flour and remaining sugar together, then slowly whisk in the heated milk.
Roll the pastry out again until you have the original 35–40cm square and repeat.
Cut the pastry log into 1cm pieces and place these in the muffin tins. Allow the pastry to soften slightly then using your fingers to push the pastry down and mould it up the sides of the tin. You want the pastry on the bottom of the tins to be as thin as possible.
Spread the remaining butter over the pastry but this time, roll into a tight log. Cover with cling film and refrigerate for several hours.
Carefully pour the custard into the prepared pastry tarts and bake at 190°C for 15 minutes. You want the tarts to have some brown brûlée on top.
Roll the pastry into a 35–40cm square. Spread a third of the butter over the pastry then fold one third of the pastry into the centre and then the other third over this.
Allow to cool and then savour with a glass of port!
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Custard Squares The custard square is a Kiwi classic! I grew up with the canary yellow, almost rubber-like custard squares that were standard fare in all bakeries and school canteens in the 80s. Thankfully our tastes have progressed, and while the custard square remains a firm favourite, the custard need not be too firm. Instead imagine a light creamy vanilla custard sandwiched between flaky pastry. 2 sheets store-bought puff pastry, thawed 3 cups full fat milk 50g butter, chopped 2 tsp vanilla extract ½ cup sugar ⅓ cup cornflour 5 egg yolks (size 7) 1 cup icing sugar 1 tsp vanilla extract Preheat oven to 180°C. Place the pastry sheets on baking trays lined with non-stick baking paper. Use a fork to prick holes all over the pastry then top the pastry sheets with non-stick baking paper and an additional baking tray. This acts as a weight and stops the pastry from puffing up. Bake for 20–25 minutes or until golden. Allow to cool completely on wire racks before trimming to fit a 22cm square cake tin. Place 2 cups of the milk, butter, vanilla and sugar in a pot and heat until just before boiling point. Meanwhile whisk the cornflour, remaining milk and egg yolks together until smooth. Carefully mix in the hot milk and return to the heat, whisking continually. Cook until you have a thick, glossy custard. Line a 22cm square cake tin with baking paper. I cross two sheets over the base allowing enough to hang over each side; this makes it easy to lift the slice out. Place your first pastry sheet on the base, pour over the custard and top with the remaining pastry sheet. Refrigerate for 3–4 hours, or until set, before icing. To make the icing mix the icing sugar and vanilla together with a little hot water. Start with a tablespoon or two first, adding a little more at a time until you have the right consistency.
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Crème Brûlée This is a classic dessert that, despite what you see on TV shows, is quite easy to master! A good brûlée should be just set with a satisfying hard caramel top. Once you have mastered the vanilla version you can play with variations and flavour combinations: white chocolate and raspberry, espresso and Kahlua, chai… 600mls full fat milk 1 tsp vanilla paste ½ cup sugar + extra for the tops 6 egg yolks (size 7) Heat the milk and vanilla in a pan until just before it comes to the boil. Beat the egg yolks and sugar until pale then whisk in the warm milk. Place 6 ramekins into an oven dish and divide the custard between the ramekins. Place in a deep roasting tray and pour boiling water halfway up the sides. Bake for 15–20 mins until just set with a wobbly centre. Chill in the fridge for at least 4 hrs. To serve, sprinkle some sugar on top of the custard (the more sugar the better the brûlée part) then caramelise with a blowtorch or briefly under a hot grill. Leave caramel to harden (a couple of minutes), then serve with a crisp biscuit like biscotti or thin shortbread.
Coconut Custard This great dairy-free custard is perfect over tropical fruit. We served it over Fiji rum grilled pineapple. 400ml tin coconut milk 4 egg yolks (size 7) ¼ cup sugar Place the coconut milk in a small saucepan and heat until just before it boils. Meanwhile beat the egg yolks and sugar together. Whisk the milk into the egg and sugar then return to the saucepan and back on the heat. Over a low heat cook, continuing to whisk until the custard thickens.
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Beauty & Fashion THE POWER OF ESSENTIAL OILS
MADE TO MEASURE
Essential oils are popping up everywhere at the moment, and rightly so! Adding just a few essential oils into your everyday lifestyle can help anything from - cold and flu symptoms - skin conditions - relaxing your mind and body - balancing hormones - improving digestion
Got a special occasion coming up? The ladies at Feisty Needle are the answer to your prayers! From creating a bespoke outfit just for you to transforming an old favourite in your wardrobe. Pop in and see Deb and the team on River Road (opposite the Fairfield Bridge).
Of course, we love essential oils to help with skin conditions, so below are a few of my top essential oil skin savers. Rose - Great for dry and ageing skin. Research shows it has compounds for healing skin and is great to manage skin conditions such as psoriasis and dermatitis. Tea Tree - Is one of the most well-known essential oils. It is great for acne prone skin and is antibacterial and assists in wound healing. It’s also great for regulating oil production. Patchouli - Particularly good for ageing skin. It promotes cell renewal and reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Lavender - My all-time favourite essential oil! It smells amazing, helps you relax and has great benefits for the skin. It regenerates skin cells and is great for mature skin, sun spots and scarring. A great oil for all skin types.
EMBELLISH IT! This season’s hot trend is embroidery. Anna from The Look on Alexandra Street, Hamilton says they are seeing embroidery on all manner of garments and accessories. This denim jacket from Classified, with some beautiful embroidery on the back, is a notable example. For this and more great spring trends head into The Look on Alexandra Street, Hamilton.
Remember good essential oils are very powerful, so if applying direct to the skin we suggest diluting the oil with a base oil or cream.
Sara
Sara from Skin Beauty & Day Spa in Te Awamutu shares some great advice each season to keep your skin beautiful and healthy. skinbeauty.co.nz
ious c i l e d Find s on recipe te! si our web
10 CELEBRATING
OF FINE
FOODS
Homemade jams, jellies, vinaigrettes, dressings, chutneys, sauces, mustards. Real food made by real people.
5 MAIN ROAD, TE KAUWHATA | WWW.PEPLERS.CO.NZ | 07 826 3838 |
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Peplers
recipes NOURISH || health NOURISH
A Herbal Spring Tonic for a Gentle Cleanse Walk outside and have a look under trees, shrubs or hedgerows at this time of the year and you are sure to eventually come across Galium aparine. Here we commonly call it cleavers. It is also known as goosegrass, scratchweed, stickywilly and catchweed. In Scotland it is called gripgrass, which refers to its habit of grabbing and clinging onto you, your clothing or indeed any animal that may walk amongst it. One of the wonderful herbs that grow abundantly in our back yard, it is available much of the year although at its peak growing period in the spring and summer. And it is in spring that cleavers are traditionally used as a herbal tonic. With an affinity with our lymphatic, circulatory and immune systems, cleavers have been used for arthritis, jaundice, psoriasis, scurvy, kidney and bladder problems. It can also be used as a hot poultice for toothache and earache. The seeds were roasted and used as a mildly stimulating substitute for coffee. If you feel like you have overeaten during the winter months, it is also a good herb to use. Culpeper* said, “It is familiarly taken in broth, to keep them lean and lank, who are apt to grow fat.” Today, as medical herbalists, we would use cleavers for people who have congestion and/or stagnation, especially in the lymphatic, skin, digestive and urinary systems. We often include cleavers in a tonic with other herbs that have a cleansing and supportive effect on the immune system; for example, it may be included in tonics for those with tonsillitis, mastitis, abscesses and boils. So how can you use cleavers at home? Because of its affinity with the lymphatic and circulatory systems, cleavers can be used for skin conditions such as acne, psoriasis, eczema and dandruff. The best way to use cleavers is to gather a large handful of the soft green tops and roughly chop. Place in a glass bowl that will take about 1 litre of water.
Fill the bowl with room temperature water, covering the chopped herb. Cover with a plate and leave the herb/water mix to infuse overnight. The next morning strain the herb from the water, keeping the water. It is this infused water that you will drink. For an adult drink 1–3 cups of this per day for a period of up to 10 days. Cleavers has a mild taste and is very easy to drink; you could use this liquid as a base for any chilled drink such as a punch or homemade juices. Cleavers is safe for the whole family and there are no known contraindications with this herb. As with any herb that you are intending to use, please make sure to identify cleavers correctly before using. If you would like to use cleavers, but can’t pick your own, or want a herbal spring tonic made up for you, please contact us for more information. *Nicholas Culpeper (1616–1654) was a famous astrologer/physician, botanist, herbalist. He set up his own herbal medicine practice and published Culpeper's Complete Herbal, which is still used as a reference text by many students of herbal medicine today.
by Bronwyn Lowe Medical Herbalist | MNZAMH The Herbal Dispensary | 6 Wallis Street, Raglan www.theherbaldispensaryraglan.co.nz
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NOURISH | gardening
Anna Sinclair THE FLOWER LADY facebook.com/theflowerlady
Enjoy a spring pamper treatment today! 07 870 5249 65 SLOANE STREET (AT THE REAR OF EMPIRE THEATRE)
TE AWAMUTU
SKINBEAUTY.CO.NZ SKIN-BEAUTY-DAY-SPA
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07 872 8070 1 BEECHEY STREET PIRONGIA
Hooray, we have survived another winter—and what a wet winter it was! As the garden starts to awaken from its winter slumber and signs of new growth are everywhere, what you do in the garden now will be what you enjoy in the months ahead, or as B.C Forbes (1880) so eloquently said, “It is only the farmer who faithfully plants seeds in spring, who reaps a harvest in autumn.” Spring is a beautiful time of year to be the owner of fruit trees. First, you get to enjoy the beautiful blossoms and watch the bees drunkenly go about their job of pollination. Then you get to see the first green leaves uncurl and clothe the tree in the most amazing vibrant canopy. And with luck you should start to see the swelling of little fruitlets. If you have never watched your fruit trees closely over spring, I would encourage you to do so. The beauty is in the detail and the close observer is repaid in full! But first the jobs. Deciduous fruit trees, such as plum, apple, quince, pear and persimmon, all benefit from a winter spray of copper oxychloride or lime sulphur as a general clean up spray to kill any lingering disease spores, while the application of a mineral spraying oil works by smothering and suffocating the eggs and larvae of overwintering pests. If you have not done this yet, there is still time, but it needs to be done before the flower buds burst (or show colour). If you had a particularly bad infestation of blackspot or leaf curl last year then apply another spray of copper after the petals have dropped and as the leaves are emerging (green tip). As with all sprays, read and follow the instructions if you want the best results.
The number one rule in the vegetable garden after such a wet winter is to conserve the soil structure as much as possible. Don’t stand on the soil or work it too much when it is very wet. Spring is a good time to sow seeds (or plants) of peas, beetroot, lettuce, coriander, spring onion and silverbeet. Do start sowing seed of some of the more tender summer plants such as tomatoes, capsicum, basil etc but don’t plant out in the garden too early as frosts, very cool nights and low soil temperatures will result in poor results. Although it is so tempting it is much better to wait till the soil has warmed up. Often tomato plants that are planted later will do much better and outgrow those that have been planted too early. As a general rule of thumb, Labour Day or late October is about the right time.
So go forth, shake of the winter blues and get yourself into your garden and tick off those garden chores. But more importantly take the time to enjoy the magic that is spring, when the whole garden seems to awaken and sparkle with new life and new beginnings.
In a previous life Anna Sinclair was an expert in growing onions and potatoes on an industrial scale. She is now a busy mother of four, and she spends her spare time applying her horticultural expertise to growing flowers in her flower farm on Matangi Road and then arranging them beautifully. You can find her handy work for sale on the Flower Lady Cart every Monday and Friday on 62b Matangi Road.
LL FLAVOURED GOLD TOP
Spring is also a good time to fertilise and then mulch your fruit trees. Production of flowers and fruit requires high amounts of potassium. To do this use a fertiliser high in potassium such as rose fertiliser and sprinkle it from the trunk to just outside the drip line of the tree (this is the root zone). Mulch well with compost or other organic material. It is also important to feed citrus trees. Citrus are hungry plants and need a range of nutrients to stay healthy and bear fruit. In particular, they need micro nutrients such as magnesium, manganese, iron and copper. For this reason it is important to use a fertiliser blended especially for citrus.
Spring also brings lots of rewards to the flower grower. It is a lovely time of the year to enjoy the cherry blossoms, daffodils and all the spring bulbs. Take the time to enjoy the colour and scent of these short-lived flowers. Bring some Daphne or Erlicheer inside and notice how the smell fills the room. But don’t rest on your laurels, for if you want to be enjoying flowers in late spring and summer, some action is required now. Good cut flower varieties that you can be sowing now include asters, snapdragons, cosmos, nigella, straw flowers, foxgloves and ornamental carrot. And the bonus of all this activity is that not only will you have beautiful flowers to enjoy and maybe give to friends but the bees and beneficial insects will also have a food source.
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·
SINCE 1911 CLEAVEDALE FARMS MATAMATA
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Let’s use the
WasTe HIeRarChy rethink
There are so many fun creative actions we can get involved with BEFORE we hit the recycling crate.
refuse
reduce repair reuse
recycle
Before you recycle have you considered...
Rethink
The Waste Hierarchy
Then the rest goes to
means the closer to the top you target your personal actions, the more impact they will have on your life and our world.
l andfill
BlaKe in Raglan, REFUSES plastic and opts to buy things in glass jar. He reuses them to store screws and nails in the garage, dry foods in the pantry, and taking leftovers to work the next day!
Easy as that!
Sew it yourself!
REFUSE “do you have any loose vegetables that aren’t pre-bagged?”
Reduce Embracing minimalism
is appreciating ONE beautiful, well made, good quality winter coat. It can be your LIFE JACKET, instead of having TEN different cheaper, but short term, options.
LOUISe from Hamilton uses her sewing skills to repair and tailor second- hand items as well as reuse fabric to make things from scratch. She shares her sustainable and ethical sewing journey at say cheese louise.com
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“vodka lime and soda, without a straw thanks.”
How long will it be in my life for? What is it made of? What packaging does it come in? Where is my money going to?
saycheeselouise.com
Repair Track down a local
skilled seamstress or electrical store to repair broken items, or better yet, take a class to learn the skills yourself. This is where we look at things as resources not throwaways... And if we can’t reuse things, maybe someone else can?
REUSE
LIVING
Zero
Zero waste is a new attitude towards environmentalism that is growing fast in popularity and momentum. I find it seriously inspiring, if not a little bit daunting, the idea that you can live a fulfilling, ethical life leaving only a minimal amount of waste in your wake, without having to forsake convenience, productivity or pleasure. Being zero waste is on my list of things I aspire to achieve during my lifetime, but it feels pretty impossible right now, particularly with two kids under five and way too many projects on the go already!
Of course, the truth is that it isn’t impossible at all. In fact, in many ways, I am already well on the way to being a zero-waster because I’ve revamped my expectations of the products I buy and use. I now consciously avoid products with a single-use lifespan, instead opting for products that have multiple, or even better, infinite possibilities for usefulness between their inception and their complete biodegradation. It might seem like a very complicated way to go about my shopping, but it isn’t really. The reality is that our society isn’t structured (yet) to allow for a completely zero-waste existence, so it’s inevitable that many of the things I buy will need to be disposed of somehow. When I shop I simply consider this hierarchy of waste shown opposite.
Mrs Goodness
www.mrsgoodness.nz
WASTE
REFUSE | Can I eliminate any waste altogether? REDUCE | Can I reduce the amount of waste at all? REUSE | Can I reuse a product over and over before it goes to waste? REPAIR | Can I repair it to extend its useful lifespan? REPURPOSE | Can I reinvent a product in order to give it a second or third life before it becomes waste? ROT | Will a product biodegrade completely at the end of its lifespan? RECYCLE | Can a product be manufactured completely, or partially, into new products? LANDFILL | (The absolute last resort!)
Recycling has long been regarded as a thoughtful, sustainable option for waste management, but we are now realising that it is one of the inferior methods we have available to us. The problems inherent in plastic don’t disappear when products are recycled into new objects of desire. Humans are the only creatures on earth that don’t live by zero waste principles, and that’s what makes us unsustainable. But it also proves that zero-waste life is possible; we just need to take responsibility for our actions and make the change!
Style in the Suburbs OPEN 7 DAYS 6 Te Aroha Street, Hamilton 021 910 978 | thekirkcafe@gmail.com
thekirkcafe
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Just north of Katikati, perched on a hill with views of Athenree Harbour is the home of Mr Salad. Mr Salad himself, Wayne Revell, has been here for nearly 10 years. An ex dairy farmer, Wayne admits he didn’t really know why he ended up growing lettuces in such a gorgeous spot. He’d looked at several options, including dairying in the South Island, but ultimately decided on a hydroponics business in the sunny bay.
words & photography VICKI RAVLICH-HORAN
51 MAHOE ST, TE AWAMUTU REDKITCHEN.CO.NZ
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NOURISH | feature
The business has tripled in size over the last decade, and until recently Wayne grew herbs as well as lettuces delivering both directly to local cafes and restaurants. “I sat down a year ago and said something has got to give,” admits Wayne. In the last couple of years he had been simplifying the business, reducing the variety of lettuces grown by half. Recently, the solution to simplify the operation further came from Bidfresh, a fresh produce wholesaler, who bought the sales, distribution and brand. Gus Tissink from Bidfresh says, “We recognised that Mr Salad produced a high-quality product and collectively there were synergies in working together, especially with regard to deliveries, which in most cases meant that product was more readily available to our mutual customers. It was also an opportunity to add another exclusive brand to the Bidfood stable.” For Wayne this has meant he can now focus on growing great lettuces and not have to worry about distribution and the hundreds of invoices that needed to be sent out and chased up each week. And growing great lettuces is what Mr Salad does well. The six day a week operation plants 31,000 seedlings each week. From seedlings it takes between six to eight weeks before the lettuces are ready to be harvested, processed and packed, which is all done on site. Wayne says, “Most people laugh when I say it, but growing lettuces is just like dairy farming.” Wayne believes the key to good dairying is raising healthy calves resulting in healthy, productive cows. With this in mind, Wayne and the team put a lot of effort and man hours into developing large healthy roots. To do this the seedlings are taken out of their plugs and planted in the greenhouse for a week before being placed in the ploy tunnels. This extra step results in strong root systems which then leads to hardy and healthy lettuces. This is valuable, Gus says, “to chefs who want lettuces that have a good shelf life and can withstand the harshness of a kitchen environment like being left out in a hot kitchen or under the lights on the pass. They also want lettuces that are robust enough not to collapse under the weight of a dressing and represents good value”. The lettuces are grown under open aired poly tunnels. As these only offer protection as opposed to creating a controlled environment, the lettuces are hardier. This also means they are vulnerable to the local weather conditions, although Wayne believes the temperatures on the coast are around two degrees warmer than in Katikati. Luckily demand for lettuce drops slightly in the colder winter months just as the volume produced each week does the same. So when eating out this spring and munching on a healthy salad, chances are it’s a beautiful fresh lettuce from Katikati.
Home Of The World`s Most Trusted Kitchenware Brands. Shop instore or online at thescullery.co.nz
371 Victoria Street, Hamilton 07 839 9001
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THE FENNEL PHENOMENON Fennel is one of nature’s multi-faceted, over-achieving individuals. Every part of its structure is edible—from the seeds and stalks to the root and the fronds. Technically it can be classified as a herb, a spice or a vegetable, but with spring upon us, it’s the perfect time to focus on the fresh variety.
Admittedly a rather polarising vegetable, Florence fennel or Finnochio (in Italian), adds a distinct sweet, musky, licoricelike flavour to whatever it touches. Housing nutrients such as vitamin C, fibre and anethole, there are many reasons to fall for its whimsical charm. Originating in Europe with strong links to Italian and Mediterranean cooking, fennel is one of the oldest cultivated plants and grows worldwide. During medieval times, it was hung above doorways to ward off roaming evil spirits. In the plant world, it joins dill, coriander, carrots and parsley in the Umbelliferae family. From a white bulbous base comes tall, green, slender stalks that lead to darker wispy fronds, while the small anise-scented seeds are found tucked away in the yellow blossoms of a mature plant. With the bulb as the star attraction, its fibrous, overlapping layers take an intriguing journey of crunchy and fragrant when raw, to sweet and tender when roasted. Fennel is best eaten fresh, as it loses flavour over time. Look for firm bulbs without spots or bruises and they will survive up to four days in the fridge. The firm texture of raw fennel is best thinly sliced, ideally with a mandolin. Sadly, the tough stems and feathery fronds are too often left to waste, although they shouldn’t be. The celery-esque stalks bring an aromatic undertone to any stock or slow braised stew, just as the pungent licorice character of rogue fronds are great scattered through a salad or blitzed into pesto.
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Raw, roasted, braised, pickled or sautéed, its ability to adapt to a range of cooking methods works in our favour. Chefs the world over love the classic combination of a thinly-sliced fennel and orange salad. Seafood’s illustrious affinity with fennel is wellcelebrated, with steamed mussels, poached salmon and braised octopus all benefiting from a sweet-fennel infusion. Lacy fronds add finesse to a plated dish, and caramelised, honey-roasted bulbs paired with goats’ cheese will have almost anyone salivating. The health benefits of fennel are rather remarkable: thought to detoxify, improve digestion, boost metabolism and reduce inflammation. Vitamin C (with almost 20% of our daily intake) is the most active nutrient, working to confront destructive free radicals that lead to inflammation and joint degeneration. Add in a decent hit of potassium, vitamin B6, folate and phytonutrients, while smaller quantities of magnesium, manganese, phosphorus and calcium each play a supportive role. Fennel is often linked with improvements in heart health. With high naturally occurring nitrates increasing blood flow and significant fibre helping maintain good cholesterol levels. The electrolyte potassium works to lower blood pressure and folate fights the good fight, reducing harmful levels of homocysteine in the blood.
NOURISH | feature Probably fennel’s most fascinating phytonutrient is the compound anethole. As part of the plant’s volatile oil, this concentrated liquid is responsible for the strong aniseed aroma. Several studies have shown anethole may reduce inflammation and lessen the occurrence of cancer—particularly breast, colon and liver. Notorious for helping get the bowels moving, fennel acts as a laxative and may reduce flatulence. This system-flushingmechanism explains why many ‘detox’ or ‘digestive’ tea blends include fennel as a main ingredient. And finally, as a natural source of estrogen it is thought to help regulate the female cycle and can positively affect fertility.
Still wondering why all this fuss about fennel? Traits like antiinflammatory and anti-cancer are good enough reason, along with its versatile nature, the influence and influx of global cuisines or simply because more of us are falling for that unique licorice flavour. Lose the notion that fennel is just for fancy restaurants— this spring season grab a bulb, embrace its crunchy slivers and delicate fronds and revel in all its fragrant, protective plant-based glory. Kate Underwood | Relish the Memory | @relishthememory
5 WAYS WITH FENNEL Fennel goes beautifully with pork and fish. The bulb adds a wonderful crunch with a hint of aniseed when fresh, or a mellow creaminess when cooked. Along with the bulb, fennel fronds and seeds are also versatile ingredients, be it in salads, pesto or in baking.
01 Add thinly sliced fennel bulb to coleslaw. 02 Place quartered fennel bulb under your pork when
roasting. When the pork is done, your fennel will be melt in the mouth tender and your gravy will have an added dimension of flavour. Go for gold and rub the skin of the pork with freshly ground sea salt and fennel seeds.
Fennel Gratin
03
Add fennel seeds on the top of homemade bread or scones before baking.
04 Make a delicious salad, perfect with duck breast or
pork, by mixing very thinly sliced fennel bulb with orange segments (blood oranges if you can get them!) and rocket. Season with a pinch of salt and a drizzle of good extra virgin olive oil and serve.
05 FENNEL GRATIN 3 fennel bulbs 4 cups chicken stock 1 cup cream salt and pepper, to taste extra virgin olive oil ¼ cup grated Parmesan
Thoroughly wash and trim the fennel bulbs. Trim the tops and bases, leaving enough of the base intact so the fennel retains its form. Cut the bulbs lengthwise (from top to bottom) into pieces approximately 2–3cms thick. Place the fennel and stock in a large pot and bring to a simmer. Cook for 5-10 minutes, or until the fennel is slightly tender. Remove the fennel, retaining the stock. Drizzle a roasting dish with olive oil before placing the fennel in. Pour 2 cups of the chicken stock and the cream over the fennel, season with salt and pepper. Scatter with the Parmesan and finely chopped fennel tops before baking at 180°C for 20–30 minutes.
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NOURISH | feature
burbs Hamilton has a trove of cafe gems dotted through its suburbs. From well-loved local favourites to newer establishments bringing greater diversity, the city’s cafe culture appetite is certainly well catered for. We caught up with three couples behind some of the most interesting eateries around town. They share their stories.
words ESTHER BURNETT | photography BRYDIE THOMPSON
CINNAMON CAFE: GOOD FOOD, GOOD VIBES AND PLENTY OF SUNSHINE You’ll hear the hum of Cinnamon Cafe before you see it, a hive of activity buzzing with good music and staff dancing as they work. Cinnamon is five years old and it’s the local favourite in the suburb of St Andrews. It’s the work of owners Amy Hodgson and Charlie Duncan, who have plenty of hospitality experience between them. They also own Crudo, close by Cinnamon in St Andrews. Crudo is the city’s newest spot for exquisite dining in an intimate setting, and it has won a place in this year’s Cuisine’s Top 100 restaurant list. Cinnamon’s open lounge setting and its signature “consistent comfort food done quickly” has made it a neighbourhood staple, along with Amy’s “envelope of happiness” service that she says is one of the most important elements of a successful hospitality venture.
Amy and Charlie met 20 years ago when Charlie was head chef at Le Grand Hotel in Hamilton. Le Grand was Amy’s first hospitality job, after being nudged by her grandmother to give it a try. She fell in love with the industry and this led to eight years of travelling, managing luxury resorts and restaurants across Europe. She says she learned “it doesn’t matter what language you speak, people know when they’re being taken care of—it’s the dinner and a show element”. Charlie and Amy have two young children, two young businesses, and a shared love of hospitality. Amy says Cinnamon is vibrant and fastpaced while Crudo is where she gets to extend her love of intimate, flavour-driven fine dining at a much slower pace.
Wallis Bistro Opening in October Raglan PAGE 43 | WWW.NOURISHMAGAZINE.CO.NZ
They bring complementary strengths to their businesses. Says Charlie: “I’m out there with the ideas and Amy brings me back to earth.” They say their success is down to surrounding themselves with the right staff. People romanticise the hospitality industry but it is hard work, and they need people who are passionate about it. So choosing staff is key. Says Amy: “People love working here, it’s their happy place and the customers feel it.” She says staff members are as much a part of Cinnamon as she and Charlie are. “They know the names of our customers and will have their coffees waiting for them before they even get inside the door.” Charlie says 80 per cent of Cinnamon’s customers come in every day; they come for the banter, laughter, consistency and community feel. Everything on Cinnamon’s menu is a favourite, tried and true comfort
food with some flavourful extras like the spicy harissa marinated chicken and Amy’s personal favourite, the ramen bowl. Its rich, warm broth is perfect for crisp spring days. The cabinet is packed with bright salads and home-baking. It’s all made from scratch and overseen by head chef Virginia, who’s been at Cinnamon since it opened. “It’s really the community that owns Cinnamon,” says Charlie. “People call it ‘their place’.” Or, in Amy’s words, “it’s your local pocket of good vibes and sunshine”. Cinnamon, 201 Sandwich Rd, Hamilton.
HAYES COMMON: WHERE ART MEETS HISTORY MEETS FOOD Tucked away in the Hamilton East heritage suburb of Hayes Paddock is its community heart, the upbeat neighbourhood eatery Hayes Common.
did what we did well.” He says that when they opened River Kitchen, they introduced customers to new tastes such as lamb terrines and rabbit pies, and people loved it.
The ‘common’ is an English term for a local gathering place, and this eatery is a labour of love from husband and wife team Brent and Lisa Quarrie. Their hard work has earned them a number of awards since they opened in March 2016, including a place on this year’s prestigious Cuisine Top 100 restaurant list.
Hayes Common’s menus are strong on seasonality and variety. Lisa and Brent are constantly experimenting with flavours and ingredients that echo their travels through South-East Asia and further afield. Their steamed buns with crispy pork belly, house-made golden sauerkraut, pickled radish and sticky sauce have become legendary. Lisa says they are a “classic combination with a twist”—a concept woven into all their dishes.
Brent and Lisa both come from strong culinary backgrounds and they are both trained chefs. Brent has also worked as a sound engineer and Lisa studied communications before working for luxury Auckland food brand Sabato. They share a love of food and art: “We are the classic ying-yang couple,” says Lisa. Lisa and Brent moved to Hamilton from Auckland in 2007 and opened River Kitchen cafe on Victoria Street, running it successfully for nine years. When the Hayes Common opportunity came up in the neighbourhood where they live, they agreed it was time for a new chapter. They have two young children, and this has influenced their thinking at Hayes Common. Says Lisa: “We wanted somewhere we could go that didn’t lack the quality dining experience that often comes with casual dining establishments. This was a niche that wasn’t being covered.” She says Hayes Common is the perfect mixture of approachable, relaxed-yet-fun dining, styled around a banquet feel. Adds Brent: “The dinner party you want to have at your own home.”
Brent says they’ve always had a clear vision of what they wanted. From the handmade Ace Firers ceramic vases filled with Lisa’s floral arrangements to the hand-blown lights made by friends at Monmouth Glass, no detail has been spared at Hayes Common. The eatery was designed to fit the landscape and character of its suburb. “We wanted to reflect the history and architecture of the area, staying true to the 1940s aesthetic and the stories of the building,” says Brent. Lisa says the business is constantly evolving. “We’ve only just gotten started.” They host regular ‘Meet the Maker’ evenings for customers to engage with Hayes Common’s suppliers, and every Saturday you’ll find ‘Common Language’ afternoons with live vinyl sessions from Cian O’Donnell of Conch Records. Market days are planned, and events and function offerings will be expanded. “You’ve got to be creative and multifaceted to be in this industry,” says Brent.
The menu is designed to be shared, described by Lisa as “relaxed but robust, not fussy but delicious, good honest food. It’s all about introducing people to new, exciting flavours while not steering far from the classics”.
Lisa says they want the space to work for everyone, whether they are river walkers, fine diners or families with children.
Brent says they are creating new expectations. “But you have to win people’s trust. We knew no one when we first moved here but we just
“Everyone is welcome here.”
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Hazel Hayes, 33 Jellicoe Street, Hamilton East.
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NOT JUST AMAZING COFFEE... we serve up fresh, sustainably sourced food that you can enjoy... guilt free. COME AND ENJOY OUR COURTYARD IN THE FRESH SPRING AIR
OPEN 7 DAYS 7.30AM - 4PM 07 823 9178, 11 Empire Street, Cambridge www.rougeempire.co.nz
RougeCambridge
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THE KIRK CAFE: A FEAST FOR THE SENSES The Kirk Cafe is nestled down Te Aroha Street, in Hamilton East. It is one of the city’s newest eateries, established in the precinct of St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church. It is a sunny, friendly cafe, and you’ll find vibrant, fusion-inspired food almost bursting off the plates. Just a hop, skip and jump from the CBD, it’s the perfect spot for morning coffee words VICKI RAVLICH-HORAN and weekend brunches. The Kirk is the work of culinary couple Kersti Mead and Ben Teyssier, and when they opened six months ago they had no idea how popular their cafe would become. They’ve gained a following for their healthy, wholefood approach and Ben’s contemporary eyecatching dishes, as well as their excellent service. Kersti says she wanted a “relaxed cafe feel with a restaurant offering”. Maybe it’s all in the name: The Kirk was Kersti’s mother’s idea, it being the Scottish word for church, reflecting her heritage and the cafe’s historic church site. Kersti and Ben have certainly converted many to their colourful offerings, usually less sinful than they appear. Ben’s the chef at The Kirk and Kersti’s out front. Kersti has had 30 years of hospitality experience, managing at front of house and teaching at Wintec. Her focus is on top-notch service: “The service, the coffee and the food need to match.” Ben is French. He grew up around good food with a Corden Bleu chef mother but he worked as a graphic designer and builder before finding his calling as a chef. He paints in his spare time and his artistic leanings influence his signature culinary style. “The plate is my canvas, it is art on a plate and it’s important to truly bring the food to life.” He describes his food as “progressive fusion cuisine”, reflecting his European background and modern food trends. Ben and Kersti’s shared attention to detail, and their belief in what they do, has shaped The Kirk. They are keen gardeners and plates are garnished with their own edible flowers. The foraged feel and seasonality of The Kirk’s dishes link back to their rural roots (Kersti grew up on a farm in Scotland and Ben in the French Alps). “We source as much as we can locally, and we always use quality ingredients,” says Kersti. Today the cabinet is full of Kiwi favourites and sweet treats, including their popular raw slices. Vegan offerings are growing, as Ben turns his hand to vegan cheeses and baking. The menu is constantly evolving but best-sellers like crème brûlée French toast will remain. From the pistachio pashmak floating upon the French toast, to the smoked feta foam surrounding The Kirk’s fritters, it’s a testament to this culinary couple’s love of food and the entire dining experience. The Kirk, 6 Te Aroha Street, Hamilton East.
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PAGE 47 | WWW.NOURISHMAGAZINE.CO.NZ
Hayes Common’s Smoked Salmon, Lentil and Apple Salad with Beetroot Hummus and Turmeric Tahini Dressing Serves 6
500g piece smoked salmon (we smoke ours in-house)
BEETROOT HUMMUS
LENTIL & APPLE SALAD 1 green apple, julienned 1 roasted beetroot, peeled and diced
2 cups (or 1 can) cooked chickpeas
½ cup cooked quinoa
1 cup chickpea cooking water (or 3 tbsp liquor from can with ¾ cup water added)
1 cup cooked green lentils
2 cups roasted peeled beetroot, diced (approx 3 medium beetroot)
Combine all ingredients and set aside.
½ cup tahini
juice 1 lemon 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
¼ cup white miso paste
TURMERIC TAHINI DRESSING
juice of 1 lemon
½ cup tahini
sea salt extra water to adjust consistency as needed extra virgin olive oil dukkah Add everything, apart from the chickpea water, to food processor and blend. Add chickpea water and as much additional cold water to get desired consistency. Pour into a container and top with a good olive oil and your favourite dukkah (optional).
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2 tbsp apple cider vinegar juice of 1 lemon 2 tsp ground turmeric 1 tsp cayenne pepper 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil water for thinning the mixture salt and black pepper to taste
Blend the first six ingredients in a food processor or blender. Add water to thin the mixture to dressing consistency; season with a little salt and black pepper. * Keeps in fridge for 5 days. Mix will thicken a little if left and colour will become more intense.
TO ASSEMBLE Spoon a generous dollop of beetroot hummus onto serving bowl/plate. Place an 80g portion (approx.) of smoked salmon alongside, then pile the lentil and apple salad on top of the salmon. Dollop over a spoonful of turmeric dressing and sprinkle with dukkah. Serve with a lemon wedge.
NOURISH | recipes
The Kirk's Smoothie Bowl This vegan bowl of goodness is a great example of the food on offer at The Kirk, packed full of goodness but so much more than you would expect. This is no ordinary morning smoothie. Want to see how Ben puts it together so you can compare your attempt? You’re in luck, as it is on their new menu. DATE CARAMEL 1 cup soft pitted dates 2 tsp coconut oil
SMOOTHIE 3 frozen bananas roughly chopped 1 tbsp date caramel 2 tbsp coconut milk 2 tsp real maple syrup ⅛ tsp vanilla bean paste 1 pinch cinnamon Blitz frozen bananas in a food processor until smooth. Add the remaining ingredients and continue blitzing until combined.
LOVE CRUNCH
2 tsp coconut milk
3 cups GF rolled oats
1½ tsp real maple syrup
¼ cup coconut oil
2 pinches of ground cinnamon
½ cup raw cacao
Place all ingredients in a food processor and blitz until smooth. This may take a few minutes to achieve the desired consistency.
¼ cup brown sugar ½ tsp salt
Mix all of the ingredients together and then spread out evenly on a baking tray. Put in the oven at 180°C for approximately 15 minutes, or until crunchy, stirring the mix every few minutes.
TO ASSEMBLE Pour the smoothie into a bowl and top with Date Caramel, Love Crunch and your choice of toppings. Topping suggestions include: Julienned green apple Goji berries Freeze-dried lychee Vegan chocolate drops Chia seeds Linseed Cinnamon powder Candied spiced pecan nuts
⅓ cup real maple syrup ½ cup semi-sweet chocolate or vegan chocolate bits additional nuts, seeds, dried fruit
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sisters are
There’s something special about The Strawberry Farm at Tamahere.
Haley. “We have dinner together once a week, we go on holiday together. We have a pretty unique family.”
Its friendly rural charm kind of reaches out to greet you. You walk past neat gardens and the quirky kids’ playground; turn right into Punnet Cafe for well-made coffee and quality comestibles, or go straight ahead to The Country Providore store for strawberry ice cream, fresh produce and chic shopping.
The family has expanded in recent times. Emma married Joe Gethen in April, Haley marries Scott Bicknell in September and, keeping things tight, Kate’s partner Kurt Strachan works as a beekeeper with Emma’s husband Joe.
Wherever you are, you’ll see the McMahon sisters—Haley, Emma and Kate—going about their business: Haley owns Punnet, Emma has The Country Providore, and Kate assists Emma in the store.
Haley and Emma sit together at a table at Punnet, talking about their family’s connectedness and how this has led to innovative businesses. “We are very respectful. We get in behind each other. We love to see each other’s success,” says Emma.
Then there are parents Pam and Gary, who started it all. They run The Strawberry Farm, growing sweet red summer fruit and sharing their Newell Road property with their daughters’ businesses.
Haley says she and her sisters have all been away and done their own thing. “We’ve chosen to come back. We love what’s going on at Punnet and in Hamilton.”
Pam and Gary have owned the farm for 15 years, their daughters grew up on it. They’ve all worked together and supported each other from the beginning. “We see each other every day,” says
Haley returned from overseas in 2013 to buy Punnet from its previous operators. It had hit a flat patch and her goal was to revitalise it.
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NOURISH | feature She had three strategies: work in the business herself, showing customers that someone loved it; do an extensive internal refurbishment that put her own stamp on it; upgrade the kitchen and ablution area to provide better services for customers. She also developed some exclusive spaces for functions such as children’s birthday parties and family celebrations. “We’re busy all week and we have 300 people here on Sundays. We need the best possible services to cope with all this. We’ve got a great staff, too.” Her customers enjoy freshly made cabinet goodies and a breakfast and lunch menu thoughtfully compiled by head chef Chris McIntosh. Chris has been at Punnet for seven years—almost from its beginnings—and his made-from-scratch dishes are strong on wholesome, quality ingredients and punchy flavours. An example being his popular cauliflower and chickpea fritters spiced with turmeric, cumin and coriander, and served with tasty eggplant kasundi, housemade hummus, coconut yoghurt raita, grilled lemon, roasted baby tomatoes and almond feta.
“It tastes very good,” says the boss, as she reels this off. A few steps away at The Country Providore (increased in size from its tiny beginnings), Emma and Kate offer retail therapy. Their carefully selected designer homewares, gift ware, baby clothes and toys, table linen, throws and stunning cookbooks are arranged on vintage tables. You can also pick up fresh local produce, deli items, condiments, flowers, bread and chocolates. From mid-October, fresh strawberries from the family farm are a big draw, and customers enjoy The Country Providore’s signature berry ice cream all year round. “Even at 9am on a winter morning,” says Emma. As the cafe and store have expanded in size and services, the relaxed, rustic charm—at the heart of Brand McMahon—has been meticulously maintained. Now, says Emma, they’re focusing on getting better, not bigger. “We’re working every day on creating a better offering, making the place as good as we can.” “We’re doing something different and unique here,” Haley adds. “We’re a destination. We like to make people feel special.”
words DENISE IRVINE | photography ASHLEE DECAIRES
The Strawberry Farm, 337 Newell Road, Tamahere; punnet.co.nz; thecountryprovidore.co.nz
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PUNNET'S VEGAN DOUGHNUTS MAKES 6
2½ cups flour ½ cup soy or other plant milk ⅓ cup + 1 tsp caster sugar 2½ tbsp active dry yeast 2 tbsp Nuttelex dairy free butter 1 tsp vanilla extract 3½ cups oil for frying
In a small bowl add 1 tsp caster sugar, yeast and plant milk. Keep aside for 15 minutes or until it becomes foamy. In a deep mixing bowl add flour, sugar, butter, vanilla and yeast mixture. Mix everything until you have a sticky mixture. On a floured bench knead the dough until it forms a ball that's not sticky anymore—about 10–15 minutes. The dough should bunch back when you poke it. Oil a bowl and place the dough in it, cover with cling film and allow the dough to rise for 1½ hours. On a floured bench roll out the dough with a rolling pin until it is 1½cm thick. Use a 6cm round cutter to cut out the doughnuts.
Cover the doughnuts with cling film and allow them to rise for 15 minutes. Heat oil in a deep pot until the temperature reaches 150°C. Fry the doughnuts on both sides until they are golden and cooked through. Remove the doughnuts with a slotted spoon and allow them to drain on paper towels then roll the doughnuts in sugar while they are still warm. Serve warm with Strawberry Chia Jam
STRAWBERRY CHIA JAM 2 cups of strawberries ½ cup of Canadian maple syrup ¼ cup chia seeds juice of one lemon pinch of Himalayan pink salt Quarter 1 cup of strawberries. Blend 1 cup of strawberries. Mix all ingredients together and let sit overnight, refrigerated to allow the chia seeds to absorb the liquid. Keeps for five days refrigerated.
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Local Art Scene TAURANGA ARTS
FESTIVAL | 17 OCT 19 - 29
Tauranga’s tenth anniversary Arts Festival offers shows from around the world and New Zealand, including three that celebrate not only food but the relationships that are created by food. Actors Todd Emerson and Chris Parker take the recipe for comedy gold to serve Hudson & Halls Live, the winner of a roasting pan full of Wellington Theatre Awards at the end of 2016. Java Dance Theatre choreographer Sacha Copland has been following a food thread with her Artisan series having previously explored the nature of bread, wine and soil. Her latest creations—The Creamery and Cheese (for children)—are based around artisans competing to create the finest cheese.
THE FRAMING
WORKSHOP MONTHLY EXHIBITIONS
The Framing Workshop have an exhibition space and have been showcasing and supporting regional artists for quite some time now. Owner Sarah Marston says she enjoys forming relationships with the various artists and helping them exhibit their work. Each month a different artist is highlighted, and this spring’s exhibitions include; September Marise Rarere ink drawings on paper October Ulrike Schaffer digital collage work November Hiria Anderson oil paintings The Framing Workshop, 120 Silverdale Road, Hamilton www.theframingworkshop.co.nz
Tauranga Arts Festival runs October 19–29. See the full programme at www.taurangafestival.co.nz. Tickets from Baycourt Theatre in Tauranga or Ticketek, www.ticketek.co.nz
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Salmon Salmon is a great source of Omega 3 fatty acids, protein and selenium. Basically it can help lower blood pressure and inflammation, and is also great for cell, bone and heart health. I use macadamia oil in these recipes. It has a very mild nutty flavour which works well with salmon, has good health benefits and it can reach high temperatures without becoming bitter. I don’t use much, just enough to give even cooking and lubricate the pan. It’s available at all major supermarkets and at RedKitchen.
Megan Coupland RedKitchen www.redkitchen.co.nz PAGE 54 | WWW.NOURISHMAGAZINE.CO.NZ
NOURISH | recipes
Red kitchen HONEY AND TAMARI SALMON with SHANGHAI AND GINGER This is an easy week night go-to. We use tamari or shoyu instead of soy sauce, which are fermented, less salty alternatives to soy sauce and naturally gluten free.
2 tbsp tamari 1 tbsp honey 1 tbsp water 1x portion salmon 1x packet of shanghai, cut in 2 cm slices 1 red capsicum cut in triangles 2 tbsp sesame seeds, toasted 2 tbsp sliced ginger 3 cloves garlic, finely sliced Mix the tamari, honey and water till honey has dissolved (do not use hot water as this will cook the salmon).
Take the skin off the salmon and put the fillet in the marinade. Let sit for 1 hour. Dry the salmon skin and sandwich between two baking trays. Pop in the oven till it crisps up. Heat a pan with a bit of macadamia oil and fry salmon on each side till a beautiful caramel colour. Finish in the oven. The honey will make the salmon darken quite quickly, so keep an eye on this. While the salmon is in the oven, add a bit of macadamia oil to a frypan, along with the shanghai, red capsicum, ginger and garlic and stir till the shanghai softens. If it is starting to colour you can add some water and steam it to the end. Season and add the sesame seeds. Serve the salmon on a bed of the shanghai and top with crispy salmon skin.
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SALMON PIE This is ridiculously good. We make a similar version at RedKitchen, but at home I make this salmon one. You can make individual sizes and pop them in the freezer. This uses a béchamel base—I make mine at home in the microwave.
1kg peeled kumara, cooked and mashed 100g butter 100g flour 1.3 litres milk 150ml cream 200g whole corn 2 onions, peeled, diced and sautéed in butter
Pre-heat the oven to 180°C. Melt the butter in a large microwave proof bowl (I use a 2l Pyrex). Add the flour and microwave for 1 minute. Stir and add 200ml milk, pop back in the microwave for 2 minutes. Keep adding the milk in 200ml batches and then microwave for 2 minutes after each addition and stir, till all the milk is used. Give it a good whisk so it is smooth and then microwave for a further 7 minutes till it is bubbling and the flour is well cooked out. Give it a good stir—it should be silky smooth. Season with salt.
400g fresh salmon fillets, chopped in large cubes
Put the béchamel into a large bowl and add cream. This will cool it down enough to add the fish.
200g hot smoked salmon, in large chunks
Add the corn, onions and all the fish to the top of the béchamel and then very gently fold to incorporate. Place mixture into an oven proof dish.
400g gurnard, cut into large pieces 100g feta chives, finely chopped zest of 2 lemons ¾ cup panko breadcrumbs
Spread the kumara on top in chunks. Toss 1 tbsp macadamia oil with the panko breadcrumbs and toast in the oven till golden brown. Remove, cool and add lemon zest, crumbled feta and chives, and spread evenly on top of the kumara. This is now at the stage when you would freeze it if it is not to eat straight away. Otherwise pop it into the oven. The fish is still raw till this stage, so the pie just needs cooking till it is hot in the middle and the fish will be beautifully cooked and still moist (approx. 35 minutes). Serve with a garden salad and crispy bread.
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SALMON with ANCHOVY TOAST 1x baguette (I use a rustic Volare baguette) 9 anchovies 1 clove garlic, crushed Âź tsp salt 100ml olive oil 200g hot smoked salmon 1 small packet fresh salmon 150g cream cheese 100g sour cream cracked pepper to taste zest 1 lemon 2 tbsp capers chives, finely chopped
Heat oven to 160°C. Blend the anchovies, garlic, salt and olive oil. Finely slice the baguette on an angle, so you get nice long thin slices. Brush one side with the anchovy oil and place on a baking tray in the oven till dry and crisp. Keep an eye on this. Soften the cream cheese by stirring in a bowl. Add the sour cream, lemon, capers, chives and cracked pepper. Stir to combine. Stir through the flaked hot smoked salmon. Finely slice the fresh salmon. Arrange the spread, anchovy toast and sliced salmon on a platter with some wedges of lemon. This is a great little communal starter, or nice with friends and a bottle of bubbles.
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Taste of Spring
words & recipes JUSTIN THOMSON | photography BRYDIE THOMPSON
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NOURISH | recipes
BBQ BUTTERFLIED LEG OF LAMB WITH TAHINI, GREEN CHILLI YOGHURT SERVES 6–8 With BBQ season upon us we asked Justin from The Shack in Raglan to share one of his favourite way to get the most of your grill. You will need to allow at least 2 hours for the marinade to work and just over an hour to cook. You can make life easier by marinating the lamb in the morning and preparing the tahini yoghurt, hazelnut picada and accompanying BBQ spring greens in advance.
Optional extras: toasted sesame seeds, finely sliced chilli, pomegranate syrup, roughly chopped parsley and coriander for garnish
FOR THE MARINADE 5 tbsp olive oil 2 tsp each ground cumin, coriander, salt and paprika 1 tsp each ground fennel seed, black pepper
Marinate the lamb: Take a large dish or bowl and mix the olive oil, spices, salt, pepper, thyme, garlic, zest and juice. Place the lamb into the dish and with your hands work the marinade in to every nook and cranny. Cover and let the marinade work in the fridge for at least 2 hours.
3 garlic cloves, crushed
Meanwhile, prepare the tahini and green chilli yoghurt by whisking the yoghurt and tahini together in a bowl. Add the lemon juice and a splash of warm water if the sauce is too thick. Fold through the zest, garlic and chilli. Cover and chill until ready to use.
zest and juice 1 lemon
Whether you are using gas or coals for your BBQ, ensure they are piping hot.
2 ½ kg leg of lamb, butterflied
Add the lamb, fat side down and cook for 5–6 minutes until well coloured. Don’t be afraid to take a peek as you go. Turn it over when you feel it has the desired colour and allow the other side to colour.
FOR THE TAHINI, GREEN CHILLI YOGHURT
Lower the heat: Turn down the gas or move the hot coals to one side and allow the lamb to cook gently for about 30–45 minutes.
1 tbsp thyme leaves
¾ cup unsweetened yoghurt 2 tbsp tahini paste zest and juice 1 lemon 1 clove of garlic, crushed 1 green chilli, finely chopped
Pay attention to the lamb as it cooks. You will need to turn it so as not to burn it, move it closer or farther from the coals. Try and maintain a medium to low heat. To test how done the lamb is you can use a meat thermometer; 60°C will be nice and pink, or cut into the thickest part of the lamb to see if it is to your liking. When you feel the lamb is ready, remove from the BBQ, place on serving board or platter, cover with foil and rest for 15–20 minutes. When ready to serve, cut into thick slices or chunks and place on serving board or platter. Reserve any juices from the lamb, just in case anyone wants to use it as gravy! Liberally pour the tahini yoghurt over the lamb, garnish with sesame seeds, green chilli, pomegranate syrup, parsley and coriander.
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BBQ SPRING GREENS WITH HAZELNUT PICADA, HONEY AND SHEEP’S MILK CHEESE SERVES 6–8
Ideally you will want to cook the spring greens as the lamb is resting. Make sure you give the BBQ a good scrape to remove any burnt bits. You can make the picada in advance.
FOR THE HAZELNUT PICADA ¼ cup toasted breadcrumbs ¼ cup toasted hazelnuts 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil zest of 1 lemon (save the juice for the spring greens) 1 clove garlic, mashed ¼ cup parsley ¼ cup thyme leaves salt and pepper to taste Put all ingredients in a food processor and pulse until a well combined, crumbly texture. You can make this in advance and put aside until ready to serve. FOR THE BBQ SPRING GREENS* 30 asparagus spears (snap off the woody part of the stem) 4–6 baby cos hearts, halved lengthways 500g sprouted broccoli, slender stems 4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil 2 tbsp runny honey juice of 1 lemon salt and pepper 100g sheep’s milk cheese (feel free to substitute with feta, pecorino, Parmesan or any cheese with a tang!) ½ cup each chopped parsley and torn mint leaves for garnish
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Make sure the BBQ is at a medium heat. In a large bowl, coat the broccoli with 2 tbsp of olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Spread the broccoli on the grill. It will take 6–8 minutes to cook and you will need to keep it moving to avoid burning. After 3–4 minutes repeat the process with the baby cos and asparagus. Spread the asparagus and the baby cos, cut side down, on the BBQ. Turn after 2 minutes and allow another 2 minutes to finish cooking. Return the vegetables to the bowl and dress with the honey, remaining olive oil and lemon juice. Transfer onto your serving dish, top with crumbled (or grated) cheese, hazelnut picada, parsley and mint leaves. *Zucchini, fennel bulbs, peppers, onions can all be used as options, just allow for different cooking times.
Spelt The term ‘ancient’ conjures up romantic notions of bygone eras, but a lengthy heritage is not the only thing that ancient grains can celebrate. Unlike modern staples like corn, rice and wheat, the chemical structures of ancient grains are largely unchanged from their original forms. And when discussing origin stories, few grains are as impressive—or as ancient—as spelt.
indeed contain gluten—the protein responsible for many digestive difficulties—but it is much more easily tolerated than the gluten in wheat. “The gluten strands are shorter,” Nick explains, “they’re weaker and much more easily broken down.” Nick has seen first-hand many customers with wheat intolerance who can eat spelt without a problem: “The proof is in the pudding.”
It is widely believed that spelt was first grown by Mesopotamian farmers—today’s Iran—as early as 5000 BC. As civilisations trudged westward, spelt was brought along with them and its popularity spread throughout Europe. Several millennia later, the Industrial Revolution ramped up and spelt gradually became replaced by the grain we love to hate: wheat. Nick Parker, owner of Mount Maunganui’s Flaveur Breads, explains: “From the spelt plant, modern wheat was derived. But in that process, modern wheat has changed so much that you couldn’t call them the same plant.” Wheat was easier to harvest and could be produced faster and cheaper than spelt. As the world continued to march forward, spelt nearly died out.
These shorter, weaker gluten strands affect the practical uses of this grain as well. You’ll never get the long, elasticity of a pizza dough; rather spelt flour lends itself to ‘shorter’ doughs, like scones and biscuits. Spelt makes for a denser product with a sweet, nutty flavour. Home bakers can use the flour in place of wheat as a direct substitute but, “be careful,” Nick warns, “it is very prone to over-mixing”. While you can use the same amount of spelt as you would wheat, you’ll need to decrease the mixing time by two-thirds, otherwise you risk denaturing the protein, collapsing the bread.
The grain was all but forgotten when its health benefits were rediscovered in Europe in the 1980s. Nick says, “They found that spelt was nutritionally superior, had really good mineral content and better digestibility,” before adding, “and good flavour, too.” This discovery coincided with a global resurgence of ancient grains, including the likes of quinoa, buckwheat and millet, as people started searching out more natural, less processed, plant-based foods. Over the past decade, as the incidents of food intolerances and allergies rose, spelt made its comeback. Spelt does
Health food and organic shops are your best bet for finding this grain both in milled flour form and whole as spelt ‘berries’. The berries, cooked like rice, can be eaten as a side dish, added to salads or used to fill out soups. Flaveur Breads has a large range of spelt-based products, including a 100% Spelt Loaf, the popular Spelt Seeded Sourdough and even a rye and spelt muesli. What is a bread baker doing supporting a non-wheat based bread? Nick explains: “It’s a great substitute for wheat; everyone should give it a go. At home, I use it to thicken sauces and gravies. You can do all sorts, it’s very versatile and user-friendly.” A final reminder from this bread baker: “Just don’t over-mix it!”
words RACHEL HART | photography ASHLEE DECAIRES
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DOUBLE CHOCOLATE WALNUT SPELT COOKIES The spelt flour gives these cookies a nutty flavour well matched by the walnut pieces. MAKES 18 SMALL COOKIES 1½ cups spelt flour, sifted 1 tsp baking powder 1 tsp baking soda pinch salt 1 tbsp cocoa powder 150g butter, softened ½ cup packed brown sugar ½ cup sugar 1 egg ½ cup chocolate drops ½ cup walnuts Preheat oven to 180°C. Sift flour, cocoa powder, salt, baking powder and baking soda together. Cream the butter and both sugars. Add the egg to the butter/sugar mixture and beat in until well combined. Stir the flour mixture into the butter mixture by hand and stir gently until just combined. Mix in the chocolate drops and walnuts by hand. Make small balls out of the dough, place on a baking tray and bake for 8 minutes (note: take them out of the oven when they still look a little raw. They will finish cooking outside of the oven and will be gooey and soft).
You’ll find Spelt flour at good food stores like Dante’s in Cambridge, The Herbal Dispensary in Raglan and Whole Heart in Queenwood, Hamilton. Whole Heart also sell Flaveur Bread.
PHOTO Paper Eskimo
You may have to order Spelt berries in.
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NOURISH | recipes
ZINGY SPRINGY SPELT SALAD SERVES 4
¾ cup spelt berries 4–5 kumara 6 carrots 1 head broccoli 2 tbsp olive oil salt pepper 4 handfuls mesclun (or other leafy greens) 1 orange 4 tbsp olive oil 2 tbsp apple cider vinegar 1 tsp honey 1 thumb size knob of fresh ginger 1 handful sunflower and pumpkin seeds
To cook the spelt put spelt berries and 3 cups of water into a pan. Cover, bring to the boil, then turn down to medium heat and let simmer for 40–45 minutes. Chop kumara, thinly slice carrots and cut broccoli into chunks. Place in a large bowl, add 2 tbsp of oil and toss. Spread veggies onto a baking tray, season with salt and pepper. Bake at 180°C for 20 minutes: halfway through, flip everything over so it doesn’t stick to the tray. For the dressing, whisk together juice from the orange, 4 tbsp oil, apple cider vinegar, grated ginger and honey. Toast the sunflower and pumpkin seeds in a dry frying pan on medium heat for 2–3 minutes. When the grains and veggies are all cooked, place them in a large salad bowl with the mesclun. Pour the dressing over top and toss.
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Dough Bros
words VICKI RAVLICH HORAN | photography BRYDIE THOMPSON PAGE 64 | WWW.NOURISHMAGAZINE.CO.NZ
NOURISH | feature
KEEPING IT LOCAL It’s a dreary Sunday in Hamilton and while most would use this as an excuse to stay home a large crowd are heading to Dough Bros on Victoria Street in Hamilton. Inside, the wood fired oven is burning, adding to the warm atmosphere that Jake and Katherine Mitchell have lovingly crafted. Today is their first Locavore Lunch, a concept which exemplifies perfectly what Dough Bros is all about. Two and a half years ago Katherine and Jake arrived fresh on the Hamilton hospitality scene. Revamping the very tired Barzurk, the couple wanted to create a local eatery that took its inspiration from the great food grown and produced in our region—a spot for people to share and enjoy simple food done well; a place for celebrations, a spot to enjoy a Tuesday night meal or discover a new craft beer. A true ‘local’. The wood fired oven, now fuelled by aromatic manuka, is the only remaining vestige of Barzurk. The space is now a contemporary light and airy restaurant that is casual yet sophisticated and inviting. Their inherited wood fired oven provided the inspiration for the menu and food style with their signature sourdough pizzas. "Our reference point is Italy,” explains Jake. “They've used sour dough for their pizzas for hundreds of years, always baked them in a wood oven and were always made with local produce." Pizza may have been the perfect starting point, but don’t be fooled! Dough Bros is about more than pizza. It is the local element that really cements Dough Bros in their place among the various eateries in Hamilton, and this brings us back to the Locavore Lunch.
There are six courses on offer, each highlighting the depth and quality of produce available in the Waikato. To start, it’s the established and much loved Volare Bread paired with one of the newest local artisan producers in the region, Bellefield cultured butter. Boutique olive oil producer Whangape and Peplers dukkha complete the board. With this first course, the scene is set. Jake says, “They wanted to create a menu that was practical and showcased what was unique about the produce without fiddling with it too much.” The team already had a strong network of local suppliers to start from with many having supplied Dough Bros from the start—Manuka Brothers, Magills, Shunter Yard, Cilantro and Southern Fresh (via Bidfresh) to name a few. In planning for the lunch, head chef Josh began more conversations with local producers. Jake and Katherine used the strong connections they have made with the Waikato Farmers Market and Waikato Food Inc to see what else they could include. Bidfresh took the team to Southern Fresh in Matangi so they could see the journey for baby veg and salad greens they serve every day from field to plate. The result, a menu that celebrated the season, our region and the vision of this young couple. Add to this a chance for local producers to sit and break bread with those who enjoy the fruit of their labour. DOUGH BROS 250 Victoria St, Hamilton, www.doughbros.co.nz
LOCAVORE LONG LUNCH
DRINKS ON ARRIVAL Tap beers from Shunters Yard brewery and Three Fat Pigs Seasonal shrub cocktail or mocktail - choose from our selection Persimmon and lavender shrub w/ lemon, Sweetree Honey syrup, soda, with or without Dancing Sands vodka (Golden Bay) Tamarillo and ginger shrub w/ lemon, Sweetree Honey syrup, soda, with or without Reid+Reid gin (Martinborough) Edible flower garnishes from City Gardens Hamilton
NIBBLES ON ARRIVAL | Break bread together Volare sourdough breads, Bellefield cultured butter, Whangape Grove olive oil, Peplers sweet and spicy dukkah FIRST COURSE | Locavore platters Soggy Bottom smoked leg ham, Magills smoked pork and garlic sausage and finocchiona salami, pickled baby vegetables from Southern Fresh, Peplers beetroot relish and whisky mustard, Volare bread & crostini. SECOND COURSE Salad of Magills ham hock, mixed leaves and chioggia beetroot from Southern Fresh, wholegrain mustard viniagrette. THIRD COURSE Magills beef short rib carbonnade, celeriac puree. SIDES Sweetree Honey and franjelico glazed baby vegetables, Cilantro chèvre, sage Grilled Southern Fresh baby leeks, fennel remoulade Beer courtesy of Three Fat Pigs, bacon courtesy of Soggy Bottom
PUD Tiramisu bathed in Manuka Brothers wood-fire roasted coffee and enriched with mascarpone made locally by Cilantro A WEE CHEESE BOARD Volare bread, Over The Moon soft cheese, Cilantro’s Billy the Kid goat’s cheddar, paste we made from local quinces this year, Sweetree honeycomb, fresh pear All salad greens courtesy of Bidfresh Hamilton and Delmark /Southern Fresh. All micro greens and edible flowers from Francis at City Gardens Hamilton
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Locavore
FOR THE SALAD: 2x ham hocks (Magills), braised in a fast stock until tender or sous vide 2x (Southern Fresh) baby cos lettuce heads (or equivalent loose mixed cos) 1x witlof head 1x green apple ½ cup walnuts 2x baby Chioggia beetroot (Southern Fresh) micro red radish leaves (City Gardens), other peppery micro greens would do edible flower petals (City Gardens), or grow your own! Pick and wash the cos lettuce and witlof, cutting in half any large leaves. Dry and put aside. Lightly toast walnuts. Slice apples into thin wedges (keep slices in cold acidified water until required). Cut the beetroot into small batons or thin rounds (as thin as you can). Shred the meat from the ham hock and place ready in a bowl. Around 100–150g per serve should be adequate (400–500g total if aiming for 4 serves). FOR THE VINAIGRETTE: 1 tbsp (Peplers) wholegrain mustard 1 tbsp (Sweetree) honey 2 tbsp apple cider vinegar 125ml EVOO (Whangape Grove) flaky sea salt to taste Make the vinaigrette: whisk honey, vinegar and mustard together. Slowly whisk in the olive oil until emulsified and season with flaky sea salt. Gently toss together cos, witlof, sliced apple, walnuts, beetroot and the shredded hock. Lightly dress with a little vinaigrette. Place a handful of salad in the middle of a plate or bowl trying to keep as much height as possible. Garnish with micro radish leaves, picked flower petals and a drizzle of vinaigrette.
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Ham Hock Salad
Book Review KANA VINAKA Contemporary Island Cuisine by Colin Chung
While in Fiji we came across this book a couple of times. Could the author Colin Chung be the Colin Chung behind the famous haunt from my youth, Vinnies in Raglan? In an example of just how small the world we live in is, this turned out to be true. Add to that, Kana Vinaka had only been released the week we were in Fiji. Colin, who is originally from Hawaii, grew up with the strong influence of his two grandmothers: “Popo”, a Chinese cook and cafe owner and “Maui Popo”, a Hawaiian weaver and farmer/gatherer. Colin went on to train in hotel and restaurant management which led to a career in hospitality and extensive travels, especially among the Pacific Islands. Colin says, “My belief is that we should all eat well and that means, in Fiji, as in other Pacific Islands, using and enjoying as much local produce as possible.” He hopes that the work he does with the Fijian government and via Kana Vinaka more people and businesses will appreciate the island’s bounty and use this in new and interesting ways. “Greater use and enjoyment of our local edibles will reduce the need to import,” says Colin. “This will lead to an increase in farmers, fishermen and local producers’ income and will help to further develop an export market demand for Fijian-grown produce.” I say “hear hear”. From our short time in Fiji it is evident there is a wonderful food culture and amazing local produce, all that is needed now is for this to become part of the Fijian tourism offering. If you are a regular traveller to the Pacific, I recommend buying a copy of Colin’s book so you too can become a champion of their unique food story and cuisine. Colin is having a local launch event for Kana Vinaka at Raglan Sunset Motel on Sunday 17 September at 2pm. Or you can buy a copy direct from Colin for $50 + $7.50 postage by emailing chungs.raglan@xtra.co.nz
FEARLESS KITCHEN by Vanessa Baxter
Many people will know the face if not Vanessa Baxter’s name, from 2013 NZ MasterChef. I have to admit I am not a fan of the show so had to put my bias in check when I was first introduced to Vanessa. The woman I met was a passionate foodie with a depth of knowledge and experience garnered from working in restaurants from a young age coupled with extensive travel. Vanessa’s other passion in life is children, and she dedicates a lot of her time to charities that help children and young people, like Ronald MacDonald House, where she is an ambassador, Koto and Bridge the Gap. Fearless Kitchen, her first book, is one of the many broad cookbooks on the market. For many this will be a good thing as it is full of everyday tasty recipes using everyday ingredients (mac and cheese, roast chicken and beef burgers) along with trendy dishes (cauliflower couscous) as well as a few dishes to gently stretch the readers’ repertoire (Soto Ayam). With this in mind it is a book perfectly suited, and I am sure will be well used, by the thousands who loyally buy every book Chelsea Winter churns out. It’s a beautifully presented book that will help inspire many unsure or trepidatious cooks and thus Vanessa believes the perfect book to help get children in the kitchen and hands-on helping to make their food. “My recipes,” Vanessa says, “are appropriate for the whole family. I believe in expanding kids’ palates and pushing their boundaries in a safe, encouraging and non-judgmental way through involving them in the process of cooking.”
SOURCE by Gerard and Henry Egger
Gerhard and Henri Egger state in their foreword of Source that “this is not, and never was meant to be, a traditional style cookbook”. Instead, Source is about the passionate people who produce our food, the people and their stories and how they are adding to the growing pride of New Zealand’s food culture. For this, their third book, Gerhard and Henri travelled the length and breadth of New Zealand discovering, tasting and meeting the people behind our food so you can take a journey around our beautiful country from the comfort of your kitchen and then create a taste of it for yourself. Meet crayfish fishermen in Fiordland, pig farmers in Huntly, Truffieres in the Bay of Plenty, olive oil producers in the Hawke’s Bay, nut orchardists in Cromwell and so many more. Along with the many growers and producers, which highlight the depth and variety beautiful New Zealand has on offer, there is also a section dedicated to traditional Māori food and ingredients. This is not necessarily a book that will sit on your kitchen bench but more one you will read from cover to cover. This a book all Kiwi foodies and chefs should have and read so that we can start to truly appreciate what Aotearoa has to offer. RRP $54.95, available in all good book shops and via www.source.org.nz
Available now and with a RRP of $39.99 it is a more reasonably priced book than many on the market.
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sous vide TAKING THE PRESSURE OFF COOKING The Duke of Marlborough took its famous medium-rare burger off the menu due to enforcement of the Ministry of Primary Industry (MPI) guidelines on meat cooking. This ignited controversy on both sides with chefs in general wanting the freedom to prepare foods such as steak tartare, carpaccio, parfait and medium-rare burgers, and health safety officials wanting to safeguard the public. When MPI was challenged as to how chefs can continue to make traditional tasty fare, they counselled the use of sous vide techniques instead. Never mind that the MPI sous vide regulations were written by someone who does not understand food and for a chef to use their own variations (and prove safety) would cost thousands of dollars to get approval from MPI. Yet, when used properly, the sous vide technique is one that offers many advantages for home cooks and chefs alike. It is surprisingly easy to implement and takes a lot of the guesswork out of cooking while ensuring flavoursome fare. There are two main aspects to sous vide. First, placing the food in a sealed bag under vacuum (literally ‘sous vide’ in French) and then cooking slowly at a low temperature. By vacuum packing the food (and any requisite flavourings) flavour and juiciness is locked in. A further benefit is that a sterile environment can be maintained within the bag after cooking—leading to longer storage periods—either in fridge or freezer. Although vacuum packaging machines are readily available, it is possible for home cooks to achieve good results without one by just using a zip-lock bag or something similar with the air largely removed.
Slow-cooking involves using a water bath in professional kitchens, although in the past, we have used chilly bins, crock-pots and foam wrapped pots on a polystyrene base. Professional baths are expensive, although relatively inexpensive immersion circulators can be bought. These are mini-pumps which can clip on the side of your cooking vessel and keeps the water swirling and at the right temperature. If you intend to get into sous vide on a semi regular basis, then I would invest in one of these devices. Or you could use a pot of water on an induction plate and keep an eye on temperature with a thermometer kept in the water. Typical temperature ranges are 56°C–72°C, and the cooking duration can be from 2 hours to 2 days. This low temperature cooking ensures that cell walls do not burst, that vegetables are firm, collagen is hydrolysed into softness while meat protein is not denatured. Essentially, flavour is enhanced without destruction of texture. There are plenty of guidelines online which give the different temperatures and timing required for each food type. Sous vide is particularly good for cooking large cuts of meat (eye fillet—mmmmm), and to tenderise the poorer cuts of meats. Unlike conventional oven cooking, immersion in a water bath over time ensures that the meat is cooked evenly all the way through without the gradients that occur in a hot oven. This consistency is a boon to all cooks. And, when ready to serve, all that is needed is to sear or grill the outside of the meat to get tasty caramelisation and the interior of the meat up to temperature (if chilled before service). We love using this technique to confit duck. Far less messy than cooking in fat in the oven and you have ready portioned bags you can take out of the freezer when required. To summarise, sous vide can be a delicious and practical way to prepare meals—it just requires some planning ahead due to the time required.
Kate Wilson | Prof’s @ Woodlands www.profs.co.nz
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NOURISH | recipes
This recipe is one we developed after a holiday in the South of France. By confining the duck to sealed bags, the messiness associated with traditional duck confit is eliminated. Instead, you end up with packages of confit duck which can be refrigerated or frozen and used at your convenience.
The amount of duck you can confit at one time depends on your vessel size. Typically we use a 10 litre pot and place 3 bags each containing 2 duck legs in it. The pot has some foam around it to insulate it and we sit it on a polystyrene base. If using a chilly bin, you can of course use more bags— just make sure that the water can circulate easily.
You will need:
Place in each bag 2 duck legs, 2–4 tbsp duck fat (frozen if possible), 1 tsp salt, ½ tsp herbs de Provence (or other flavouring). Vacuum seal the bags.
A sous vide machine or an immersion pump and large insulated vessel (a chilly bin is perfect) Plastic bags Vacuum sealer Duck legs Duck fat I often use herbs de Provence (typically a mix of rosemary, fennel seed, thyme, basil, marjoram, lavender, parsley, oregano, tarragon and bay powder) but any ‘duck’ flavourings can be used.
Place these in your sous vide machine or vessel with immersion pump and ‘cook’ at 70°C for 8–12 hours. To use, remove the duck from the bag, wiping off the duck fat. The meat can be shredded as is for use in meals such as Mandarin pancakes, broth with pasta, or a salad. However, if you wish to use the legs whole, then I recommend grilling the duck in the oven (or fry if you wish) until the skin is crispy.
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