More Good Drinks Winter 2024

EDITOR Tash McGill

HEAD DESIGNER Sara Cameron, Minted Design Co.

PROOFREADER Nikki Crutchley

(Crucial Corrections)

CONTRIBUTORS Tash McGill, Michael Fraser Milne, Siona Collier, Jamie Dickens, Steve Olson

COVER IMAGE Gracias A Dios

PHOTOGRAPHY AS SUPPLIED

Gracias A Dios, Del Maguey, Curiosity Gin, Federal Merchants & Co, Campari Group, Pernod Ricard

ADVERTISING ENQUIRIES & STORY PITCHES

contact@moregooddrinks.com 027 688 4002

ONLINE & NEWSLETTER www.moregooddrinks.com

ISSN 3021-243X

GUEST EDITORIAL

BEING SOCIAL

WITH MORE THAN SOCIAL MEDIA

When we sit down for a wee dram of fine Scotch single malt or indeed almost any drink, we are looking across a room, restaurant or such with a friend, acquaintance, family, colleague or sports mates, and the idea is to share.

Sharing experiences, it seems, has become a somewhat remote experience for many, with the advent of all manner of social media and ways of ‘seeing’ each other from a distance. It seems it is a much rarer event to get together for a chinwag and enjoy actual company.

We have all read about the decline of print media and traditional formats, such as the TV3 debacle of the last few weeks. The reason is, of course, the lack of revenue and the changing habits of everyone in regard to how they get their information.

Clicks and soundbites have become the new norm, and social media and digital reporting are with us for good; however, for us, what we read is often lacking (unless you subscribe to something decent online) and the issues are no longer explored in depth. Because of that we are not as well informed as we used to be. How many of us know our local councillor or even MP?

With the launch of More Good Drinks, it is our hope that we all get a chance to sit down with that dram and read some firstclass writing on what is one of the most sociable things we can do: taking time out, having a drink and meeting friends, while learning more about what we are consuming and who is making it.

All the best for the first issue of More Good Drinks. We can't wait to read it!

Michael and Siona, Whisky Galore, NZ.

MEET ME OVER A

MEZCAL

Tash McGill explores why you should care about this authentic spirit with complex and intriguing layers of flavour. With as expressive terroir as the finest wines and deep connections to place and people – mezcal is a drink with as much meaning as it has flavour, opening doors to understanding provenance, local culture and sustainability.

What do wine nerds and sommeliers around the world drink when they finish service? Often, it’s mezcal. Smoky, vegetal, sweet, lingering – as complex and intriguing as the finest wines. Forget shots, salt rims and a lick of lime – an invitation to explore mezcal is a chance to explore the fabric of Mexico, back to pre-Hispanic times, where indigenous cultures cultivated and revered the agave plant. While tequila can only be made from Blue Weber agave, mezcal can be made from over 30 equally unique agave plants, creating a category of spirit that is intriguing and full of discovery.

Each individual agave is harvested by hand only when deemed mature, usually between 6 and 30 years. The agave hearts are roasted in underground earthen ovens, imbuing the spirit with its signature smokiness. A giant stone wheel (tahona) then crushes the roasted agave, releasing its sweet, fermentable juices ready for distillation. This traditional approach is a far cry from the industrial stills used in modern tequila production, resulting in a spirit that's both a cultural and spiritual experience.

It was this cultural experience that transformed Del Maguey founder, Ron Cooper, says Steve Olson. He joined Ron on a mission to bring mezcal to the world. In doing so, they would begin a decades-long journey towards restoring and empowering families in remote regions of Mexico. We sat down to talk about the poignant impact introducing mezcal to the world has had on the 12 families they work with.

DRINKING TO THE FUTURE

The growth in mezcal popularity also means we as consumers have important choices to make regarding the sustainability of the mezcal we choose. Past, present and future are on your lips when you choose mezcal, as the explosion in popularity has created a sustainable future for some families making mezcal.

Del Maguey’s commitment to preserving ancient techniques and traditions has been crucial to making it possible for the next generation to choose to keep knowledge, traditions and skill in a line of family succession. The Lost Explorer mezcal shares the same values around local community and bio-diversity as Del Maguey. Their commitment to transparency means you can trace every element in the bottle, from the type of agave to the age of the specific plant harvested to make that batch. Not only will your favourite agave-based cocktails come to life with new complexity and depth, but each bottle of mezcal connects to the hands that made it, the mezcalero and the village it was made in.

To make it easier to understand the choices you’re making about your mezcal, grasping the language of mezcal becomes key. With transparency being part of the mezcal magic, it can also make it intimidating to pick up a bottle in your local store.

———— TASH MCGILL

Here’s a quick guide to some of the language you might see on a bottle of mezcal.

MEZCALERO: The person who makes mezcal, or distiller.

MAGUEY/AGAVE: Often used interchangeably, maguey is most commonly used in Mexico and used to differentiate between local varieties of agave, the scientific name.

JOVEN (OR BLANCO): Unaged mezcal that is bottled right after production and has no additional ingredients or treatments.

REPOSADO: Aged between 2-12 months in oak barrels.

AÑEJO: Aged for at least one year in oak, and after three years it becomes ‘extra añejo’.

ARTISANAL: The maguey has been cooked in a pit and crushed by mallet or stone. Distillation is commonly in an alembic still or copper still.

ANCESTRAL: The maguey has been cooked in a pit and crushed by mallet or stone. Distillation must be in clay pots, and stainless steel is prohibited.

ABOCADO: Flavoured or infused mezcal.

PALENQUE: Another name for the distillery or factory where mezcal is produced.

EMBARKING ON YOUR MEZCAL JOURNEY

So how do you take the plunge into this world of smoky goodness? First, start slow. A joven or espadin mezcal is a great introduction, offering a subtler smokiness that won't overwhelm your taste buds. This is a great reason to head to a local venue where you can try a few different varieties before committing to one you love. Check out our guide to favourite places to leap into the world of mezcal.

BEYOND SMOKE: THE SPECTRUM OF MEZCAL FLAVOURS

While the smokiness is a defining characteristic of mezcal, it's definitely not the only story. A good joven mezcal might surprise you with its vegetal and grassy notes, while an espadin varietal offers a subtler smokiness with hints of citrus and pear. Deeper exploration reveals mezcals with floral or even chocolatey characteristics – exactly why the comparison with wine makes sense!

Gracias a Dios produce a range of abocado mezcals available in New Zealand that incorporate pineapple, fig and mango. While you might traditionally think only of mezcal and margaritas, a world of flavour and cocktail exploration awaits!

MEZCAL COCKTAILS:

BEYOND THE MARGARITA

Mezcal isn't just for sipping neat – it's also a fantastic base for cocktails, where those complex notes can be balanced, enhanced and amplified. Mezcal cocktails are all about balance and complexity, using ingredients to complement the spirit's smoky depth.

MEZCAL OLD FASHIONED

This smoky twist on a classic combines the smooth smokiness of mezcal with the sweetness of agave nectar and the depth of orange bitters.

INGREDIENTS:

60ml Espadin mezcal (Gracias a Dios Espadin Joven)

0.5oz agave syrup 2 dashes orange bitters orange peel (for garnish)

BAR TOOLS:

Mixing glass or cocktail tin

Bar spoon for mixing Jigger or measure for your ingredients

INSTRUCTIONS: Combine all ingredients in a mixing glass with ice. Stir gently until diluted to your taste and strain into a rocks glass filled with fresh ice. Express the oils from the orange peel over the drink and garnish.

MEZCAL EXPLORER'S GUIDE

We’ve curated a list of venues where you can explore mezcal in thoughtful cocktails or just as it is, with guides you can trust to enjoy the experience!

AUCKLAND & NORTH

• Panacea 23 O'Connell Street, Auckland CBD

• Tacoteca (pictured ↑↖) City Works Depot 1/90 Wellesley Street West, Auckland CBD

• Gringas 7 Wood Street, Mangawhai Heads

HAMILTON

• Wonder Horse 236 Victoria Street, Hamilton Central

• Neat (inside Made) 401 Grey Street, Hamilton East

WELLINGTON

• El Barrio 35 Dixon Street, Te Aro

• Crumpet 109 Manners Street, Wellington

• Moore Wilsons 91 Tory Street, Wellington

CHRISTCHURCH

• Muy Muy 44 Welles Street, Christchurch Central City

The Jewel of the Valley:

CARDRONA DISTILLERY’S FUTURE LEGACY

Visionary and courageous, Cardrona Distillery’s

Desiree Reid has continually steered her distillery towards a bright and ambitious horizon. The vision to become the world’s best new world whisky has taken on new life in the latest chapter. Tash McGill takes a journey through the unfolding story, told in three acts.

ACT ONE – BREAKING GROUND

The stage opens for public interest in 2014 with the breaking of ground at Cardrona Distillery reported in the press. The sweeping landscape of Mt Pisa in the background, the newspaper is handed around the whisky shop I’m ensconced in. There is much debate amongst the mostly older, male crowd in the room about the audacity of the woman at the helm. They rattle off a list of challenges she’ll need to overcome with a typically New Zealand reticence to let anyone rise too soon. Everything from supply chain for barley and transportation, maturation climates and price points is under fire from the whisky enthusiasts in the room. I mostly hold my tongue. I’ve already heard enough about the unique determination of Desiree Reid that I’m prepared to wait for them all to be proved wrong. I suggest quietly, “This is perhaps a circumstance best left for a hopeful ‘wait and see’, instead of a rush to judgement.”

Nearly 10 years later, the judgements have come plenty –named New Zealand’s best single malt whisky four years in a row at the World Whisky Awards. All Cardrona Distillery spirits are made from single malt barley, produced from grain to glass onsite. The full range includes The Reid Single Malt Vodka, named in the World’s Top 50, an accolade shared with The Source Gin. The Rose Rabbit series are full-strength liqueurs made with locally foraged ingredients and old family recipes.

By the time I visit the distillery in person for the first time, there is already a warehouse full of barrels and under the watch of head distiller Sarah Elsom, spirit flowing sweet and clean from the gleaming Forsyth copper stills. Later, the legend of the falcon landing to sit atop the lyne arm of the still as it was being installed at the distillery will guide the naming of whisky releases over the next eight years. Just Hatched, Growing Wings and Full Flight are released in small, cask strength batches to give fans a glimpse into the spirit maturing in cask.

ACT TWO: CLIMBING THE MOUNTAIN

To meet Desiree, Sarah and the Cardrona team is to encounter a group of equally determined forces of nature. Desiree is laser-focused, earnest and kind. Sarah is a passionate former winemaker whose deep knowledge and curiosity for fermentation led her to the distillery under construction in the early days.

“They are kind and generous and helpful. That’s part of what makes them so special,” Desiree says of her team, knowing exactly what’s being asked of them.

Making whisky in New Zealand has never been easy, despite having the means to grow great barley and a plentiful supply of pure alpine water. They had to dig to access the water running under the valley, now aptly named Alvin’s Well after Desiree’s father, who did a lot of the work. The business has always been a family business, but the pool of investors has grown.

While there are shorter ways of making whisky, there are no shortcuts here. Desiree and the team know they have to keep making spirit if they want enough aged stock on-hand to realise the long-term vision. A vision so bold they have earned their audacious descriptions. Distilleries are expensive and hungry, particularly if you want to make a premium product with no exceptions. Everything is made from the same premium, single malt barley spirit which pushes the consumer price point upwards. Some will argue that the price point is too high but the whisky-wise know the cost of releasing that whisky will be paid in 10 years.

For several years, private cask sales have played an important role in keeping the distillery operating, alongside a thriving destination tourism business and the support of significant investors. Over 50,000 people are visiting the distillery each year for tours, après-ski dining and cocktails and experiencing the magic of the valley. The clock slowly ticks towards the 10-year mark – the magical window at which Desiree always planned to release a benchmark Cardrona Distillery whisky. At seven years, an Otago Pinot Noir cask release in the first 700ml bottle is bursting with red fruit, malty sweetness, and hints of honey. At eight years, The Falcon is a blend of those core ingredients – ex-bourbon cask, Pinot noir cask and oloroso sherry casks. It’s sumptuous with sun kissed summer fruit, butterscotch and berry notes, a resonant spirit backbone. The story of previous progress reports is now starting to sing an altogether lovely song.

But in the background, another song is echoing. I sit with Desiree at the distillery, and she explains.

“About eighteen months ago, we started to come to the realisation that we weren’t going to be able to find the deep investor commitment we needed to achieve the vision. And we’re not going to change the vision. So that’s when we started looking for a new home for Cardrona.”

It would mean sacrificing a significant family shareholding in the distillery and a long journey of discipline within the business to ensure they were in the right shape for a buyer. The stills would keep running, but quietly. Some of the toughest cuts would be made at great cost. But finding the right buyer would make all the difference to securing Cardrona’s future.

ACT THREE: AN EXPANDING FAMILY

Malcolm Leask is warm, engaging and enthusiastic. He’s bursting with words, a flurry of Scottish accent and gestures as we sit down at Cardrona Distillery. I’ve got just under an hour with the Group Managing Director of International Beverage. He and his team have touched down in Cardrona for a matter of days to enact crucial next steps in the purchase of Cardrona Distillery, wrapping the large and supportive arms of International Beverage around Cardrona, their newest jewel. Cardrona joins a group of distilleries whisky lovers will recognise, the Balblair, Old Pulteney and Speyburn among them. In turn, International Beverage is owned by ThaiBev. Ultimately, Cardrona Distillery has always been, in essence, a family-owned business, and Desiree navigated them into the arms of another family-owned business. Just much larger, but with similar values.

Leask shares with passion much of what the Scottish part of the group is achieving in sustainability efforts. There’s much excitement to bring that knowledge and technology to Cardrona’s expansion.

“We’re not here to change the plan or the vision, we’re here to make it happen. Instead of thinking about what we can do this year or next year, we’re going to plan for the whole vision whether it’s five years or ten years and then execute it. We want to realise the vision, not restrain it or go slowly.”

Left to right: Alvin Reid, Malcolm Leask, Desiree Reid, Heather and Richard Forsyth

Later, I watch this play out as Sarah and Desiree discuss expansion. After 18 months running tight and lean, Sarah is about to gear back up to 24/7 production, doubling her distillation team. It will happen in a matter of weeks, which means new barrel rooms and warehousing is urgent if they are to have somewhere to keep that maturing spirit. Leask interrupts with enthusiasm to remind them that the plans should include everything they want and need.

As for Desiree and her team? Now, 10 years later, the naysayers in the whisky shop mutter about ‘selling out’ and ‘losing a New Zealand distillery’ from the comfort of their chairs.

“We wouldn’t have done the deal without her. It wasn't an option,” says Leask. “And the team here is remarkable, truly wonderful people. We don’t want to come in and take over. International Beverage want to be able to support the people who are already doing it, and doing it well. We can offer our strengths to that.”

I look him in the eye and I believe him. I also believe him when, a few months later, he accepts the distillery keys at the annual celebration for private cask holders. Gathered at the distillery together, they receive a heartfelt thank you for what their belief and investment has meant for the distillery – the chance to make it to here, a bright future.

I look Desiree in the eye too and ask, is the sacrifice worth it?

“What sacrifice? If you have your mind set on the vision, it’s not really a sacrifice if it’s not part of achieving the vision.”

There is much that Cardrona hasn’t sacrificed – the warmth, kindness and generosity that you find in the valley. The premium, uncompromised quality of the spirit. And the promise of what is to come – being the world’s best premium new world whisky, wherever they go.

There is no closing curtain, in truth – up until now, this has all been just the opening act.

CARDRONA DISTILLERY

2125 Cardrona Valley Rd Wanaka, New Zealand (Open daily) www.cardronadistillery.com

THE BEST OF RTDS

Easy to share, easy to drink but sometimes hard to pick from the pack.

When it comes to RTDs (ready-to-drink), the shelves are lined with options. We Kiwis love our RTDs so much, the market is tipped to grow by 10% over the next few years. What was it we loved first? The colourful packaging, the party-friendly 10pks or a beer alternative that offered low sugar and full flavour? Not to mention new flavours and products constantly being released. But with all that growth, there are cans that come and go and others that just aren’t worth a crack. To help you navigate those colour-poppin’ shelves, we’ve been putting RTDs to the taste test, selected our favourites and highlighted what we think makes them worthy of the More Good tick of approval. We’re looking for real ingredients, well balanced sugar and mostly – great flavour!

CURIOSITY GIN RUBY & GINGER ↘

Curiosity Gin has been winning awards and producing some top-notch gins out of their Ōtautahi, Christchurch distillery. Their Ruby gin is a great take on rhubarb gin, but the real genius was combining Curiosity Ruby with a customised ginger ale and slipping it into a slimline 250ml can. Earthy rhubarb is perfectly sweetened with hints of ginger and spice, gently bubbly and completely moreish. Despite the ginger ale, there’s still a punchy gin kick. We think you’ll love the complexity of this twist on a G&T that our friends couldn’t keep their hands off this summer. It tastes like mixology but is as easy as cracking a can.

SCAPEGRACE GIN & SODA YUZU LEMON

Made with Scapegrace’s premium distilled gin, perfectly carbonated soda and a spritz of yuzu lemon which adds, in our opinion, just the right depth of citrus and botanical balance. The range also features blood orange, which is second favourite in the lineup. This is where it all begins – highest quality base ingredients. A well-made gin that has been thoughtfully balanced shines through mixed with soda instead of tonic – the way to the editor's heart. We think you’ll love the yuzu lemon and botanical backbone.

GINGER BEAR → (CRIMSON BADGER BREWING)

Alcoholic ginger beer might not spring to mind amongst a wall of flavoured vodka and soda RTD options, but it’s worth your attention, as ginger beer is on the rise! This is our pick of the bunch – the original Ginger Bear offers the perfect balance of sweet & zingy, fizz and moreish ginger that’s actually brewed, not just flavoured. It also comes in a 0% option or the delectable Dark & Grizzly, a nod to the traditional Dark’n’Stormy cocktail with a splash of spiced rum. We think you’ll love the genuine brewed ginger flavour and the slightly cheeky packaging. Grrr.

CORUBA GOLDEN RUM, RASPBERRY, GRAPEFRUIT & SODA ↙

We think it’s time to bring back an appreciation for golden rum and no better place to start than this absolute banger! We went to the launch of this RTD last summer and it really does highlight the great Jamaican golden rum with the slightly unexpected but delicious touch of grapefruit and raspberry. Tastes like summer but without the sunburn, and it’s a perfect sundowner. Grapefruit offers acidity that balances berry sweetness, and it was hard to keep the fridge stocked, as it quickly outpaced the mango option in the range. We think you’ll love the updated and modern take on pre-mixed rum as well as the combination of fruit flavours. It’s rum, made well and made fun again.

ALTOS MARGARITA LIME ←

When it comes to a classic recipe like the margarita, there are some rules we prefer not to break. Just because it’s in a can doesn’t mean it needs to be fizzy, especially when you’d never find a fizzy margarita in Mexico or at a bar. However, Altos have nailed the balance of this lightly carbonated margarita, along with vibrant lime. We think you’ll love the bright and refreshing finish in a slimline can that just feels good in your hand. The premium Olmeca Altos tequila is present in every sip and with so many tequila RTDs suddenly on the market to choose from, this is the editor's personal favourite.

ONES TO WATCH

Whether you enjoy a pre-dinner cocktail at a cosy bar, an excellent wine list or staying on top of the latest trends – when you do go out, it’s never just about the drinks. The personalities that make going out feel like coming home, with exquisite service and style, these are the ones who make the magic. This is More Good Drinks' Ones to Watch list.

THEO TJANDRA (AUCKLAND)

Originally from Indonesia, Theo has made a mark on Auckland’s buzzing cocktail scene with thoughtful drinks that invite you to hear his story through complex and intriguing flavours of Indonesia and Thailand, created using modern technique. He’s playful, charming and ambitious.

FIND Theo at The Churchill, 396 Queen Street, Auckland CBD, Auckland.

GO THERE FOR the known gin collection, almost as impressive as the view. Drop into The Churchill for a curated cocktail experience and ask for one of Theo’s recent competition cocktails.

CORY EVANS

This Canadian has been in New Zealand so long that Ōtautahi’s New Regent Street would be unrecognisable without him. Frequent semi-finalist in New Zealand’s best cocktail competitions, he knows how to throw down with the best of them and afterwards can recommend a cold refreshing beer or a rare single malt whisky.

FIND Cory at The Last Word, New Regent Street, Christchurch.

GO THERE FOR a chat with Cory about why the perfect martini is underrated, and at least one martini followed by a whisky recommendation to go with your toastie at The Last Word.

CAL ROSS (AUCKLAND) ↑

We first met Cal serving a tailored wine and tapas menu at Brolly, a cosy 15-seat venue in Auckland’s Viaduct Basin, and were instantly charmed by his natural warmth and attention to detail. Now you’ll find him at the much larger Panacea, but it still feels like you’ve stepped into a friend’s lounge room as he guides you to the perfect serve from a batched cocktail menu.

FIND Cal at Panacea, Level One, 23 O'Connell Street, Auckland CBD, Auckland.

GO THERE FOR an upbeat welcome and friendly guide through a list of modern cocktails and a seriously incredible whisky collection while nestled into comfy couches in a dreamy corner.

FEDERICO CASADEI (WELLINGTON)

A serious contender with two semi-final spots in recent cocktail competitions, Federico brings passion for his Italian home and produce to his cocktails that ooze umami, fullbodied texture and rich, luminescent flavours.

FIND Federico at Hawthorn Lounge, 82 Tory Street, Te Aro, Wellington.

GO THERE FOR a classic cocktail bar experience, hidden up a stairwell and with board games, armchairs or a perch at the bar where you’ll learn plenty of cocktail history, enjoy a beautiful drink and memorable atmosphere. An iconic Wellington bar.

NOTE FROM THE ED. Notice something missing? Yeah, we do too.We’re making our way around the country looking for the incredible humans with pronouns she/her, they/them to join our next edition of the Ones to Watch list. Be sure to let us know who is making drinks you love in your neighbourhood.

THE LAST WORD

Thanks for enjoying More Good Drinks Issue #1.

My first hope is that these pages inspired your curiosity to try something new or helped you feel connected to the people who are connected to the delicious things we love to drink.

My passion is to bring remarkable stories of the people who make the drinks you love and to give us all the chance to learn more about all there is to explore and enjoy.

I’m on a mission to highlight the best of what there is on offer and challenge the status quo when it comes to how we drink – or how we think we drink. A good drink should have purpose, provenance, and process – which gives what’s in the glass all the more meaning.

Look forward to plenty of recipes to try and our honest recommendations of what to keep in the fridge, take to that dinner party and the incredible makers behind some of our favourite drinks. We’ll regularly keep you updated on who to watch and where to drink!

Join us online (www.moregooddrinks.com/magazine) and be sure to celebrate and support the remarkable businesses that have supported us – you’ll see their gorgeous products in these pages. Thanks to Tickety-Boo Liquor, Federal Merchants, Cardrona Distillery, Pernod-Ricard and Super Liquor.

And a particular thanks to Vicki Ravlich-Horan, Michael Fraser Milne, Siona Collier, Drew Down, Jamie Dickens, Kevin Rowe, Gina Nicholls, James Millar, Desiree Reid, Stephen Burke and the broader New Zealand drinks industry for your openness, excitement and support. It’s my pleasure to tell your stories.

Tash McGill, Editor.