Digital Craft Fall 2021 | Furrowing - E.Rutkowski

FURROWING

PROJECT 1 Elijah Rutkowski

FURROWING PROJECT 1

Render of final Rhino model

FURROW A sewing method Furrowing is a craft and an art form that explores fold and movement in fabric. While very similar to smocking, they have some similar history. Smocking was used in cuffs, and necklines where buttons were not wanted. This technique of embroidery was worn solely by laborers, while other embroidery styles were used as status symbols of the weathy. This was used to help to be form fitting and flexible.

Stitch / Gridded Pattern Patterns Using a grid helps create a logical idea of how the thread is stitched through the fabric, creating the folds. Creating the dotted guides for the grid was done with cardboard and using a sewing marking pencil.

These dots were placed on the “wrong” side of the fabric and would allow the embroider to know where to place their needle and thread. This would keep everything organized and simple, while creating complex folds

The constraints of the craft rely on a material fabric that gathers well. Normally cotton, or silk is used in these instances. It takes more material than one may realize. Early smocking was all done by hand (which is the method I used), but in the 1950s there were pleating machines that helped increase the process and output.

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The resultant patterns can be created to look as though the fabric is woven together when it is all just that same piece of material. There are traditionally nine hand smocking stitches. These nine stitches include the cable, stem, outline, cable flowerette, wave, honeycomb, surface honeycomb, trellis, vandyke, and the bullion stitches.

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//RESEARCH

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E //TAXONOMY

//TAXONOMY

Taxonomy Models Elijah Rutkowski

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//DIAGRAM

The taxonomy of furrows consisted of trying out new ways to create folds. Using a grid to place the stitches in specific spots on the fabric. The red lines in these diagrams signify the thread placement, while the green signify the direction of the thread being pulled. Paired together, this would create a specific fold pattern within the fabric. Depending on the tightness or looseness of the gathers, the fold can create interesting spaces.

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//MODEL

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//CONFIGURATION 1

//CONFIGURATION 2

TOP TOP

SIDE SIDE

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GRID LOGIC DIAGRAM

GRID LOGIC DIAGRAM

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//CONFIGURATION 3

//DEVIATION 1

PLAN

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GRID LOGIC DIAGRAM

PERSPECTIVE

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FRONT

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//DEVIATION 2

//DEVIATION 3

PLAN

PLAN

SIDE SIDE

PERSPECTIVE

FRONT

FRONT PERSPECTIVE

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//DEVIATION 5

//DEVIATION 4

PLAN

PERSPECTIVE

PERSPECTIVE

PLAN

FRONT FRONT

RENDER

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SIDE

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RENDER

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//DEVIATION 6

//DEVIATION TO FABRICATION

PERSPECTIVE

PLAN

FRONT

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RENDER

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RENDER

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//FABRICATION - RENDERS

//FABRICATION MODELS

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PERSPECTIVE

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//FABRICATION - SURFACE STUDY MODELS

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//FABRICATION

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//FABRICATION

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Scale Assignment This Project was an exploration of what we could see in our models. Creating spaces and scale to understand spacially what these spaces would be like. There was an emphasis on making elements of threshold, mezzanine, and stairways so that there are moments of architecture as a beautiful art form instead of purely utilitarian.

CAPTION

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Narrative The next thing I worked on is the narrative to inform my building. With the idea of smocking and furrowing, I came up with an idea of an Androgynous Fashion School. The smock garment was a clothing item that was usually worn by men while they did laboreous jobs. It was the industrial revolution that changed it. Since the smock would get in the way of male workers, they stopped wearing it. The embroidery technique was then adopted for womens clothing. Specifically dresses that did not need a corset.

This dress is called the liberty dress, and it was also an early naming convention for my building.

Androgynous Fashion is supportive to every person. When searching for a site location, I looked for cities that had heavy industrial revolution ties. Early spots were London, and Liverpool in England. Later Copenhagen would reveal itself as the idea site location. It was a hotbed for the industrial revolution, and also currently has a government that is affirming of gender expression. This would lead me to choose a site in Copenhagen right near a river.

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Exploring Androgyny

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Site Analysis

Sun Path Diagram collage

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Model Iteration 1

Axon

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Model Iteration 2

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Model Iterations 3

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Model Iterations 4

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Mid- Review Model iteration 1

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Mid- Review Model iteration 3

Mid- Review Model iteration 2

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Final

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