Bangkok 101 Magazine September 2013

bangkok 101

september 2013 100 baht

BRAVE NEW BURMA

| CITY PULSE Exploring

agent of change

the Chao Praya

Myanmar emerges from shadow of history

| Food & Drink Tables | TRAVEL

Tonsai

september 2013

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Dusit Thani Hua Hin

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Dusit Thani Maldives Baa Atoll

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publisher’s letter

W

e eat pretty well at Bangkok 101, there’s no doubt about that. It’s a blessing to have access to so many of this city’s most interesting menus and most innovative chefs.

But even with our crammed gastronomic diary, we’re particularly looking forward to the next few weeks as some of the events coming up promise to be among the most memorable this year. First off the sideboard is Sofitel So Bangkok’s So Amazing Chefs event (p60), which brings nine of the snazziest chefs from all over the world to Bangkok, with the diners the biggest beneficiaries. But we’ve also got the 14th World Gourmet Festival at the Four Seasons Hotel (p13), an event which seems to get more delicious every year. Either way, there’s no better place for foodies this month than Bangkok.

And we’ve already made a start on gorging ourselves with some cracking recent meals. We’ve been to Tables, Snapper, Basil, Saras, Bawarchi and The Mayflower. It’s also Mooncake season (p70) so make sure you try them out. But, be warned, beware the durian flavour. It’s not for the faint-hearted.

We’ve also been out and about, exploring the Chao Praya (p20) with our friends at Smiling Albino Tours and we preview European Heritage Day (p16). Further afield, we went climbing in Tonsai (p36) and also hit the streets in Hanoi (p40), where – surprise, surprise – there was more eating involved. All in all, it’s been a busy month – we hope you enjoy reading about it.

All this and our 101 archive and extras can be found online at bangkok101.com. A couple of clicks is all it takes to keep in touch with what’s happening. If there’s something you feel we’re not covering but should, then please drop us a line at info@talismanmedia.com.

Enjoy.

?

What is

Bangkok 101 Independent and unbiased, Bangkok 101 caters to savvy travellers who yearn for more than what they find in weighty, dated guidebooks. It brings together an authoritative who’s who of city residents, writers, photographers and cultural commentators. The result is a compact and intelligent hybrid of monthly travel guide and city magazine that takes you on and off the well-worn tourist track. Bangkok 101 employs the highest editorial standards, with no fluff, and no smut.

Our editorial content cannot be bought. We rigorously maintain the focus on our readers and our ongoing mission is to ensure they enjoy this great city as much as we love living in it.

Mason Florence Publisher

bangkok101.com

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Contributors

publisher

Mason Florence editor-in-chief

Dr Jesda M. Tivayanond associate publisher

Parinya Krit-Hat editor

Tom Sturrock editorial assistant

Bangkok-born but internationally bred, Dr Tom Vitayakul has a background in communication and branding but now runs his family’s boutique hotel and Thai restaurant. An avid traveller and a bon vivant, he has contributed to magazines including Lips, Lips Luxe and the Bangkok Post ’s the Magazine, and has also helped edit several books on Thai subjects.

Very Thai author philip cornwel-smith is a writer, editor and curator specialising in the areas of culture and travel. He has lived in Thailand for over a decade, editing its first listings magazine and the Time Out Bangkok guides, updating Thailand: A Traveller’s Companion, presenting Noodle Box: Bangkok on Discovery Channel, and squeezing Bangkok into the city’s first phone guide for Nokia.

Food and travel writer howard richardson lives beside the Chao Phraya River in downtown Bangkok, from where he’s spent years exploring the city as magazine editor and freelance writer. He’s contributed to publications such as GQ, the BBC’s Olive magazine and the New York Times online, and written a monthly column in Sawasdee, the Thai Airways inflight magazine.

Chaweitporn Tamthai strategists

Nathinee Chen Sebastien Berger contributing writers

Gaby Doman, Urasa Por Burapacheep, Luc Citrinot, Philip Cornwel-Smith, Leo Devillers, Korakot Punlopruksa, Isabelle Kallo, Dave Stamboulis contributing photographers

Dejan Patic´, Jatuporn Rutnin, Paul Lefevre, Ludovic Cazeba, Leon Schadeberg, Marc Schultz, Niran Choonhachat, Frédéric Belge, Somchai Phongphaisarnkit group director sales & marketing

Jhone El’Mamuwaldi

director business development

Itsareeya Chatkitwaroon

director sales and marketing

Nowfel Ait Ouyahia British-born writer-artist steven pettifor stopped over in Thailand 13 years ago on his way to Japan, but never left. An authority on contemporary Thai art, Steven is a commentator on the local art scene, contributing to international and domestic newspapers and journals. In 2004 he published coffeetable book Flavours: Thai Contemporary Art . When not musing, he is often found travel writing.

AVAILABLE AT:

bangkok101.com

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Native-Bangkok writer, photographer and incurable travel addict, korakot (nym) punlopruksa believes in experiencing the world through food. She can usually be found canvassing the city for the best eats. Nym has been a host for music and film programmes, a radio DJ, a creative consultant for TV and a documentary scriptwriter. Her work appears in magazines, including Elle, Elle Decoration and GM .

circulation

Pradchya Kanmanee published by

Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. 113 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd Bangkok 10330 T 02-252-3900 | F 02-650-4557 info@talisman-media.com

© Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2013. All rights reserved.

No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher. Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them.

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CONTENTS city pulse

b a n g k o k 1 0 1 Pa rt n ers

20

10 metro beat 14 metroplates: tables 16 best of bangkok: east meets west 20 out and about: down by the river

s n a p s h ot 24 tom’s two satang 26 very thai

60

27 chronicle of thailand

Sightseeing 28 historic homes

36

and shrines 29 museums

t r av e l 30 long boat races 40

in pichit 32 upcountry now

shopping 92 new collection:

34 hotel deals

food & drink

sretsis

36 island escape:

58 food & drink news

94 unique boutique:

climbing in tonsai

60 feature: sofitel so

(un) fashion

40 over the border:

bangkok amazing chefs

95 market watch

full throttle in hanoi

62 meal deals

97 jj gem: traps & wana

63 restaurant reviews:

a r t & c u lt u r e

snapper, basil, saras,

wellness

44 exhibition highlights

the mayflower, bawarchi

98 spa review:

48 interview:

70 specials:

six senses

whitespace gallery

mooncakes

51 cheat notes

72 in the kitchen:

comm u nit y

52 photo feature:

billy bautista

100 making merit:

brave new burma

73 eat like nym

toys for thailand

74 restaurant listings

reference bangkok 101

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agent of change

nightlife

102 getting there

80 nightlife news

104 maps

82 review: octave

112 my bangkok:

84 nightlife listings

benjawan wisootsat

| Food & drink

Myanmar emerges from shadow of history

xxxxx | Shopping xxxxx

on the cover Nic Dunlop has combined nearly 20 years of images of Myanmar under direct military rule in his new book.

Check out p52.

september 2013

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every detail of the show, including new stage techniques.” Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, thaiticketmajor.com) have tickets at B1600 and B2000.

The legendary Songs For Life Band Carabao, best-known for their 1970s protest tunes, have enlisted a Thai orchestra to perform collectively as the Carabao Orchestra at Impact Arena (99 Popular Rd, Pakkred, 02-504-5050, impact.co.th) on September 14. There are two shows, at 2pm and 7pm, tickets are at Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, thaiticketmajor. com) priced B1500-B3000.

by Howard Richardson

ROCK & POP

Lamb of God American heavy metal band Lamb of God come to shatter the air at Hollywood Awards (72/2 Ratchadapisek Soi 8, 02-246-4311) on September 30 with tracks from their eight albums, which have clocked two million sales to date. The Grammy-nominated Sacrament will be prominent, along with last year’s release Resolution. Tickets are B1500.

The falsetto pop of Frankie Valli and the Four Seasons will fill up the aisles of CentralWorld Live (991 Rama 1 Rd, 02-6407000, centralworld.co.th) on September 8, as they take the stage with a string of their 1960s hits, including Big Girls Don’t Cry, December 1963 (Oh, What A Night) and Can’t Take My Eyes Off You. Tickets are B2500-B4500 from Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, thaiticketmajor.com).

The Hucky Eichelmann Thailand Tour arrives in Bangkok on September 12, when the acoustic guitarist will perform jazz compositions by HM the King in a mix of genres from around the world, including classical, ragtime and disco. Selected students will be invited on stage to perform. The concert is at 8pm at the Bangkok Art & Culture Centre (939 Rama I Rd, 02-214-6632, bacc.or.th). Entry is B1200 (B600/students).

Following their new album White Line, and the single from it, Suay Jing (Perfectly Beautiful), veteran Thai rockers Blackhead play Moonstar Studios (701 Ladprao 80 (Soi Chantima), 02-539-3881, moonstarstudio.co.th) on September 14. Lead singer Anon Saisaengchan (Pu Blackhead) promises old and new material, and says: “We have paid careful attention to 10 | SEPTEMBER 2013

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We’re all instructed to “be chilled” for the Palmy Barefoot Acoustic Concert, when country-folk singer Palmy will take off her shoes, so she can get “the real feeling of the event and atmosphere. I feel like I’m alive and doing what love.”

The two shows are on September 21 and 22 at BITEC (km1, 88 Bangna-Trad Rd, 02-749-3939, bitec.co.th), with tickets priced B1000-B3000 from Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, thaiticketmajor.com). The organisers say “some revenue” will be donated to the Kanchanaburi Elephant House. See facebook. com/palmy5 for more info.

Justin Bieber starts the Asian leg of his world tour in Bangkok with a concert on September 26 at Impact Arena (99 Popular Rd, Pakkred, 02-504-5050, impact.co.th). The Believe Tour Live comes on the back of his latest album Believe Acoustic, following a thoroughly 21st-century career of self promo on YouTube, 43 million Facebook fans and over 40 million Twitter followers.

Ticket prices are B2500-B6500 from Thai Ticketmajor (02-2623456, thaiticketmajor.com). For news on discounts and special privileges see facebook.com/bectero and bieberfever.com.

Sounds, samples and dissonance will be on the menu at Japanese Invention, in which producer Cornelius organises music to blend with installation art by Jiro Endo. It’s at Centerpoint Studio (9-11 Sukhumvit Soi 105, 02-361-9229) on September 28, with “cut and paste rock” by Buffalo Daughter; the contemporary folk of Ichiko Aoba; and electro funk, sounds and stuff from singer Salyu x Salyu. Tickets are B1290 from Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, thaiticketmajor.com), with a free Japanese rice roll provided at the door. Should be fun.

Ichiko Aoba bangkok101.com

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FESTIVALS

The Nutcracker on Ice The comprehensive 15th International Festival of Dance & Music hosts several events at the Thailand Cultural Centre (Thiem Ruammitr Rd, 02-247-0028) from September 13October 14. September highlights start with The Nutcracker on Ice (September 13-15), based on the Tchaikovsky ballet and performed by the Imperial Ice Stars (UK), then move on through the award-winning Helikon Opera (Russia) and their production of The Barber of Seville (Sept 19), and a thrill for

FILM & THEATRE

jazz fans with the appearance of Chick Corea and The Vigil (USA) on Sept 20. Among many other events, there’s also an Indian production of the Ramayana (Sept 23) by the Delhibased theatre company Shriram Bharatiya Kala Kendra, and the Argentinian Inaki Urlezaga Dance Theatre on September 28. Times and ticket prices vary, with several shows having matinee and evening performances. Full schedules at Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, thaiticketmajor.com).

Barbie Live!

Directors will focus on ‘Waterway’ as the theme of this year’s Style By Toyota 9FilmFest, which has shorts of nine minutes or less in genres including animation, drama, comedy, documentary, sci-fi and horror. The screenings are at Paragon Cineplex (Siam Paragon, 991 Rama I Rd, 02-515-5555, majorcineplex.com) on September 22. There may also be a repeat of last year’s initiative, when competition finalists were later shown as inflight entertainment on Thai Airways. All films have English subtitles. See 9filmfest.com for details.

The horror movie Laddaland, winner of six gongs at the 2011 Suphannahong National Film Awards, resurfaces as Laddaland on Stage at Muangthai Rachadalai Theatre (99 Esplanade Shopping Centre Ratchadapisek Rd, 02-262-3456) from September 3-15. Get tickets (B500-B2000) from Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, thaiticketmajor.com).

The musical Barbie Live! at Impact Arena (99 Popular Rd, Pakkred, 02-504-5050, impact.co.th) from September 19-22 bangkok101.com

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sees our heroine on set filming her latest Hollywood movie.

When her best friend begins to lose confidence Barbie uses life lessons from her favourite movies, Swan Lake, Princess and the Popstar, and Mariposa and the Fairy Princess, to teach her friend to “be brave, believe in herself, and embrace the power of true friendship”. Tickets (B900-B2000) are at Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, thaiticketmajor.com).

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SPORT

Andy Murray Scotland’s reigning Olympic, US Open and Wimbledon tennis champion Andy Murray leads the seeds in the Thailand Open at Impact Arena (99 Popular Rd, Pakkred, 02-504-5050, impact.co.th) from September 21-29. Tomas Berdych and Richard Gasquet are among the other players. Tickets start at B300 for qualifying rounds, rising to B800-B4500. See Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, thaiticketmajor.com).

EXHIBITIONS

The Body Project From crushed bones caused by Victorian corsets to the stretched necks of Kayan women in the Golden Triangle, The Body Project: Beauty, Brutality and the Reasons Behind at the Museum of Siam (Sanam Chai Rd, 02-622-2599, ndmi. or.th) examines some of the torturous practices women endure in the name of beauty and fashion. Curator Pachat Tiptus breaks the exhibition into 10 beauty standards, enhanced through photos, film and artifacts, including neck rings you can try on. The Body Project runs until September 29, daily except Mondays, and entry is free.

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A rack of international snooker stars chalk up for the SangSom Six-red World Championship at the Montien Riverside Hotel (372 Rama III Rd, 02-292-2999, montien.com) from September 2-7. The world’s top four players, Neil Robertson, Mark Selby, Judd Trump and Shaun Murphy, will be there, along with former world champions Steve Davis, John Higgins and Mark Williams, all hoping for a share of the six million baht prize money.

CRAFTS The Alliance Française Bangkok (29 Sathorn Tai Rd, 02-670-4222, alliance-francaise.or.th) hosts two sets of embroidery workshops this month by Elisabeth Roulleau, who has worked with Christian Dior, Hermès and Chanel.

The Traditional Embroidery workshop (B6500) is from September 23-25, while Introduction to Haute Couture Embroidery (B7900) runs from September 26-28. The classes are available in French, English and Italian, last for six hours a day, and include materials. See elisabethroulleau.com.

FAIRS The Living in Bangkok Fair 2013 at Bumrungrad Hospital (33 Sukhumvit Soi 3, 02-667-1000, bumrungrad.com) on September 7 features music, theatre and stalls, including those of the ThaiCraft Fair, which showcases village artisans from around the country. It’s open from 10am-5pm; entry is free. bangkok101.com

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FOOD & DRINK

Miguel Laffan

Paco Perez

International chefs gather for the 14th World Gourmet Festival at the Four Seasons Hotel (155 Ratchadamri Rd, 02-126-8866, fourseasons.com/bangkok) from September 2-8 in a series of dinners, cooking demonstrations, master classes and wine pairings. Among this year’s stand-outs are a couple of Michelin-starred chefs in Vito Mollica and Paco Perez; plus winemaker Pascal Jolivet, Portuguese maestro Miguel Laffan, Swiss pop-up genius Markus Arnold and Japanese sushi supremo Hiroshisa Koyama.

Pascal Jolivet

Michelin star chef Giancarlo Perbellini, from Verona, Italy takes over the kitchens at Viu Restaurant in the St Regis Hotel (159 Ratchadamri Rd, 02-252-4707, stregisbangkok. com) from September 25-29. Menus for four, five and six courses are available, priced from B2900, with wine pairings for an additional B2000.

Bangkok’s best Mexican diner expands at the end of the month with the opening of La Monita Taco Truck in the new eating space currently being developed on the ground floor of Siam Paragon (991 Rama 1 Rd, 02-610-8011, siamparagon. co.th). Available daily from 10am-10pm, the exclusive menu will feature truck-style tacos, Baja gorditas and individual salsas for all fillings.

Markus Arnold

bangkok101.com

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Hiroshisa Koyama

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hot plates

Tables

by Howard Richardson

F

lames shoot from pans at Tables like sideshows at a Victorian circus. Flambé is a big deal here, all of it executed in the restaurant itself, at striking copper-topped tables dotted around the room. The theme is based on the tableside preparation seen in many traditional French restaurants and the menu takes full advantage of the theatre.

The large, open space is stylishly segmented by rattan screens and display cases of booze bottles topped with valve-like lights that would look good emitting sparks in a Frankenstein movie. There are wooden floors, potted plants, oxidised mirrors and, high on the walls, largerthan-life cartoonish figures of waiters that lighten the formality.

And, despite being a mezzanine restaurant overlooking the colossal pillars in the Erawan’s classically themed lobby, the only overspill of noise is the pleasant bubbling of water from fountains and a jazz trio playing on the landing.

The menu is billed as pan-European and starts with items like meaty and sweet sautéed scallops (B750) balanced by chorizo and the sharp bite of wholegrain mustard and olives. The Caesar salad (B490) is wisely light on dressing so it doesn’t overwhelm the crispy leaves, grown at the Hyatt’s organic farm in Korat.

Other classic dishes are the Boston lobster bisque (B850), which is perhaps a little too creamy, and the steak au poivre (B1300), cooked in the oven but finished in full view, flambéed in cognac and served under a beautiful rich sauce. With chef Michel Eschmann hailing from Switzerland, the excellent roesti is no surprise, the potatoes delicately crisp on the outside, airily light within.

A popular way to sample several dishes during one sitting is the Signature Dinner of three canapés, four appetisers and a choice of main, all for B2200.

Supapong Mekprasart, runner-up in the recent Thailand Best Sommelier Award, is on hand to help with his comprehensive list, which goes from B1900-B157,000 a bottle and has stops in regions such as Portugal and Austria along with the usual stars of Old and New World. He also has a Sommelier Selection by the bottle that changes every month, and six each of white and red by the glass, including dessert wine (from B420), refreshed every two months.

If you head to Tables for a refreshing taste of mainly French tradition, in a Bangkok dining scene which otherwise tends to skew toward modernity, you won’t be disappointed.

tables

[MAP 4/g5]

Grand Hyatt Erawan, 494 Ratchadamri Rd | 02-254-1234 bangkok.grand.hyatt.com | Noon-2.30pm, 6.30pm-11pm

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bangkok101.com

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east meets west Ahead of European Heritage Day, nine different embassies in Bangkok have come together to produce a map helping visitors explore significant sites. BY TOM STURROCK AND LUC CITRINOT

A

s Bangkok modernises at an alarming rate, there remain pockets of heritage architecture preserving the link to the city’s past, like time capsules built from bricks and mortar. And, unsurprisingly, given the Western interest in Thailand during the 19th century, some of the richest, most interesting architecture bears European influence.

September 15 is European Heritage Day, held across 50 countries, and nine embassies in Bangkok have joined forces to produce a map highlighting over 60 heritage buildings and monuments in Bangkok and Ayutthuya, which will be available at embassies and cultural centres, or by emailing info@t-m.com.

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to Bangkok might not notice European influence until it is pointed out to them and the history of cultural exchange explained.

“Once you start looking, you can see a lot of the European architecture,” he says. “But it’s not so wellknown in Bangkok, so we had this idea of producing a map to tell people about the European heritage.

“In the 19th century and the start of the 20th century, Thailand became very close to Europe and Europeans became very active in the region. A lot of exchange was taking place and while everyone knows Thailand was never colonised, you see plenty of European architecture.

“We place a great deal of importance on it and, of course, we want to protect it and make sure that these sites remain in good condition.” bangkok101.com

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best of bangkok Ministry of Defence

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Assumption Cathedral

heritage highlights Wat Ratchathiwat (main image) Samsen Soi 9 The interior murals were created by the Italian painter Carlo Rigoli and depict the Vessantara Jataka epics, referring to Buddha in a European academic style.

Ananta Samakhom Throne Hall Uthong Nai Samakhom Throne Hall was built in 1907 by Italian architects and artists and no expense was spared to make the building as lavish as possible.

Ministry of Defence Sanam Chai Rd/Kalayana Maitri Rd The yellow facade with baroque-style windows and green shutters seems to stretch on without end, a little like the Royal Palace in Sweden’s capital, Stockholm.

Abhisek Dusit Throne Hall Uthong Nai The intricate wooden motifs of the verandah and of the main hall have a Moorish style, making it one of the most graceful royal buildings at Dusit Gardens.

Assumption Cathedral Assumption Square The grandest of any churches in Bangkok was founded in 1809 by French missionary Father Pascal and designed by a French architect.

Parusakawan Palace Complex Sri Ayutthaya Rd Phra Tamnak Suan Chitralada’s neo-baroque stucco facade and windows offset the art nouveau style of the verandah, arch canopies, doors and main porch.

Abhisek Dusit Throne Hall

Parusakawan Palace Complex bangkok101.com

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best of bangkok

Chakri Maha Prasat

Chakri Maha Prasat Grand Palace In the compounds of the Grand Palace, this is a perfect blend between Victoria’s Britain and traditional Siam and shows the passion of new Thai Kings for Europe.

Holy Rosary Church (Kalawar Church) Edge of Chinatown along Chao Praya River Built on land granted by King Rama I to Portuguese immigrants, it boasts a magnificent wooden sculpture of Jesus dating back to the Ayutthaya period.

Cafe Norasingh Phaya Thai Palace With its frescoes on the ceiling, wooden panels and sofas, the cafe echoes Vienna more than Bangkok, especially when the speakers play classical music.

Protestant Cemetery Charoen Krung 72/5 A peaceful place along the Chao Praya River, protected by century-old frangipani trees, it preserves the memory of the first Protestants who arrived in the 19th century.

Protestant Cemetery

Cafe Norasingh

Holy Rosary Church 18 | SEPTEMBER 2013

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bangkok101.com

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Sunday 6th October 2013

Soi 24

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down by the

river A day spent exploring the Chao Praya provides an insight into Bangkok’s past as well as an introduction to one of the capital’s most vibrant, intriguing stretches.

O

ur longtail boat turns left from the Chao Praya River into Khlong Mon, the canal that runs through the heart of Bangkok’s Mon, or Myanmarese, community. The breeze on the water cuts through the afternoon humidity as we leave the heavier traffic of the river behind. There’s the occasional new building along the banks but, mostly, the wooden, stilted houses comfortably pre-date most of Bangkok.

The longtail boats, easily identified by their rainbowcoloured canvas tops, are a familiar sight on Bangkok’s waterways. The Thai name is rue-hang-yao but, as my guide, Kob, from Smiling Albino Tours tells me, they’re also known as ‘James Bond boats’ because the character appeared in one in Goldfinger.

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BY TOM STURROCK

guy, greying but fit and sinewy from the demands of his job, paddles a small canoe while standing, reaching down occasionally to fetch a package from near his feet.

“That’s the postman,” Kob says. “Everything comes by the water here – food, garbage collection, mail.”

Earlier, after meeting at Sathorn pier, we take a crowded boat to Pak Khlong Talat, the flower market.

When travelling along the Chao Praya, there is the choice between the boats with blue flags – an all-day pass costs B100 but these boats don’t stop at the smaller piers – and those with orange flags – B17 per trip and, as a Kob explains, “a little more local and exotic”.

The streets surrounding the flower market’s main building are already packed by mid-morning – vendors are still trying to shift their stock from the previous day to make room for fresh deliveries in the afternoon. The piles bangkok101.com

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out & about The flower market

CITY PU LSE

Ready for delivery

Piles of jasmine

of bright orange marigold and jasmine form a fragrant wallpaper for the tented stalls, some staff working expertly to thread flowers on to garlands, others arranging and packing up bridal wreaths.

Along the narrow walkways that snake into the hub of the market, shoppers periodically scatter to avoid the ‘trolley mafia’, workers that go rattling up and down, pushing barrows stacked high with bundles of enormous pandam leaves.

It’s not just flowers on sale here – out the back, there are vast stores of fruit and vegetables, much of it brought to Bangkok from the Royal Projects in the north of Thailand. Beside mountains of chilli, several buckets are set up in a horsehoe formation, each containing a different kind of basil. Opposite, staff work their way through piles of fresh ginger, using hefty machetes to slice it with machine-like precision.

Nearby, though, there’s a different kind of ginger. Kob explains it is known as krachay dam, or ‘black finger ginger’ – the name is self-explanatory given its gnarled, misshapen bulbs. bangkok101.com

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It is, apparently, a renowned Thai aphrodisiac, popular with the hill tribes in the northern provinces.

“One serve of this in their whiskey every day – that’s why they have so many children,” Kob says. “And it also helps with their back pain.”

Leaving the flower market, we board a smaller ferry – it’s really more like a repurposed tin freight boat – and cross to the other side of the river, the Thonburi side, the site of the Thai capital from 1768-82, before King Rama I resettled in Bangkok. Thonburi remained an independent city all the way up until 1971 and retains that distinct sense of identity.

The Portuguese, for example, were given a tract of land alongside the river and this community remains today, a labyrinth of crisscrossing paths that houses a mixture of temples – Muslim, Catholic and Buddhist all within walking distance of each other – and backyard bakeries preparing an assortment of traditional Thai desserts, or khanom.

We pause outside one house, where, Kob explains, the man who wrote the first Thai-English dictionary once lived. He didn’t write it while living there, though. Instead, he was a revolutionary who, during the upheavals of the SEPTEMBER 2013 | 21

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CITY PU LSE

out & about top riverside spots

Best place for a drink: Viva and Aviv They take their cocktails seriously at Viva and Aviv (23 Thanon Yota Rd, end of Soi Charoen Krung 24; 02639-6305; vivaaviv.com), offering a rang of snappy tipples, including the Alfred Who? (B250), a blend of Appleton aged rum with a compote of rhubarb and lemon.

Best place to shop: Asiatique At night, you can easily spot Asiatique’s glowing ferris wheel, like a north star guiding you to this hip cluster

early 20th century, was thrown into jail – he wrote the dictionary from his cell.

On Klong Mon, our longtail boat eventually comes to rest at the Artist’s House, a pleasantly shady doublestorey teakwood hut known for its traditional Thai puppetry. It’s part giftshop – there are racks of books and postcards, with a compact art gallery upstairs – but, in one corner, an imposing stone pyramid, once part of a temple, serves as reminder of all that came before.

Almost as old is the story told by the puppeteers – the story of Hanuman, the white monkey-warrior god, one of many characters in the Ramayana, a Hindu epic.

Hanuman, of course, had many adventures but today we relive his meeting with Suphan Mucha, the mermaid.

Charged with rescuing the queen from the clutches of Ravana, the all-powerful demon king, Hanuman begins building a bridge between the two realms. Unknown to him, though, Suphan Mucha has been deployed by Ravana to steal the rocks away from the foundations of the bridge so it can never be completed. Eventually, Hanuman becomes suspicious and goes to investigate, whereupon he meets Suphan Mucha, falls in love and eventually fathers a child, called Mucha Nu, who, naturally, is part monkey and part fish.

Despite the expert skills of the puppeteers, working in teams of three – each manipulating one exquisitely decorated puppet – it’s not particularly clear what’s going on. Suffice to say, there is quite a bit of Hanuman swimming around in the imaginary water, lustily chasing after the mermaid. At the end of it all, Hanuman and Suphan Mucha happily pose for photographs.

On the way back down Khlong Mon, heading toward the Chao Praya, we come across an old lady, also in her canoe. We pull up alongside her – she’s selling trinkets and flowery garlands. Good for tourists but nothing out of the ordinary. Sensing a lack of interest, though, she reaches into the central compartment of her canoe and pulls out a couple of perfectly chilled Singhas.

Indeed, life here relies on the water to provide – food, garbage collection, mail. Beer too, apparently.

Since 1999, Smiling Albino has been crafting travel experiences in Southeast Asia and Nepal, and is launching innovative new trips in summer 2013. Trips combine multiple activities, charming venues, the finest regional cuisine and passionate hosts. Call 02-718-9560 or check out smilingalbino.com.

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of boutique shops and riverside bars and restaurants housed in refurbished wharfs (2194 Charoenkrung Rd; 02-108-4488; thaiasiatique.com).

Best place for a spa treatment: The Peninsula Bangkok brims with luxurious spa treatments but The Peninsula (333 Charoennakorn Rd; 02-626-1946; peninsula.com/Bangkok) is elevated by its gorgeous setting and refined technique. An inspired choice if you’re planning a special occasion.

A Buddhist temple in Thonburi

Backyard bakeries

Hanuman and Suphan Mucha bangkok101.com

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the layers of the thai heart

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bangkok101.com

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ToTwmo ’Ssatang

Join Bangkok-born but internationally bred aesthete Dr. Tom Vitayakul as he gives his own unique take on Thailand and its capital. Each month he tackles a different aspect of the local culture – from art and festivals to 21stcentury trends – in a lighthearted yet learned manner

On heart and mind

Artwork: Suvichan Thaothong; Nine Diamond Hearts

G

rowing up in Thailand, we were taught all kinds of etiquette and manners in various forms. We learnt how to greet, ghrab (prostrate), wai (hand greeting gestures), address someone, and even think within the proper frames of mind. From action to verbal and mental missteps mentioned in Sombat Phuudee (Gentleman’s Treasures), minefields of misdeeds and social faux pas abound. Non-verbal cues are deemed highly significant, especially ‘ghreng jai’.

Ghreng jai literally translates to “fear, dread or defer heart” and has no equivalent words or phrases in English or any other languages. It combines both emotion and thought when one is afraid of hurting another’s feelings.

It is being aware and caring when one doesn’t want someone to do something for you because it would be a pain for them. Sociologically, it is a complex system of consideration, reverence, tactfulness and humility. It stems from internal thought and deliberation and branches out to external perspectives and concerns.

In other Asian countries, principally Japan, feeling ashamed or guilty and saving one’s face in a dire situation seems more important. Other people’s viewpoints and external judgements are esteemed but in Thailand, it goes both ways. Like others, we avoid direct confrontation and prefer politeness and compassion.

Feeling ghreng jai has many layers. It does not only cover respect toward adults or someone senior but also empathy toward friends and even strangers too. It is about not imposing difficult situations on someone. It is about knowing when to ask small or big favours and to return one. It is about not hurting intimate friends’ feelings as well as not being disruptive in society. It is about trying to understand others’ feelings, being in someone else’s shoes. But Thais prefer to know about and wear someone’s heart: ‘Aow jai khaow ma sai jai raow’. It is simply complicated. Here are some examples.

Among friends, when I host a dinner party, a guest should feel ghreng jai if he would like to bring someone along unannounced. He should ask me first if it is appropriate. Or, if he has a big family and would like to bring his children along, he should feel ghreng jai to other

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adult guests, who may want to have a kids-free evening and ask if it is alright to have them over too.

Another incident goes beyond an intimate setting to an auditorium. Once I was glad to see several parents bringing their children to a classical concert to expose them to culture. However, some families who were sitting nearby did not stop their kids and even themselves from talking or creating nuisance during the performance.

I gently asked them if they felt ghreng jai not only to us but also to the performers on stage as well. Feeling ashamed, they left in the middle of the performance.

Although ghreng jai seems to be a balanced emotional and rational feeling, other matters of hearts may not make sense. In Thai, heart and mind sometimes use the same words. ‘Jit’ (mind or mentality) and ‘jai’ (heart or mind) are almost inseparable. Our hearts and brains seem to be connected. Our logic gets entangled with emotions. Our reasoning weakens when feelings are involved.

We often utter “mai pen rai” (‘It doesn’t matter’ or ‘no worries’) or the lilting sing-song “up to you”.

These “mai pen rai” and “up to you” make Thais seem accommodating. However, they are occasionally said as white lies. All things matter and there are consequences.

Mostly, words are said from our ‘nahm sai jai jing’ (sincerity) but this can also be emotional blackmail.

Basically, when asked about options, we know what we like. But we want you to choose because we feel ‘ghreng jai’. So in the end, you may or may not end up doing what we have chosen. Are Thai people passive-aggressive?

Perhaps we are. We like dancing the emotional tango to test the circumstances. This cultural habit tends to expose each other’s heart, honesty, and genuine interests.

Nonetheless, we Thais have hearts that are big and can hold vast amounts of ‘nahm jai’ (generosity). So one’s heart needs to be treasured or, as we say, ‘raksa nahm jai’ (protect one’s generosity). Before any visitors and expats lose their patience dealing with the complexity of Thais’ hearts and minds, just observe and peel out layers of our emotions. Then you will find ‘hua jai’ (heart or, literally, head of the mind) at Thais’ hearts. And that’s what we use for thinking most of the time.

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S N A P S H OT S

very thai

F taking a deep breath

The thai fascination with inhalers explained

orget fendi bags, mobile phones and coloured tooth braces, the most common Thai accessory is yaa dom – the nasal inhaler. The little white nozzle plugs into both the nose and the national psyche. Should the temperature drop beneath 30C and the nation plunge into sniffles, a dab of menthol or yaa mong (a fragrant, fatty ointment, like tiger balm) rubbed under the nose should suffice. But even when not suffering a cold, half the population habitually pops open a plastic tube of yaa dom and sniffs.

Fashion, tradition and hypochondria may play a part but a breathing problem exists.

The way the Thai now live traumatises the nasal passages, causes constant chills and dulls the immune system. Constant ducking in and out of ice-cold airconditioning isn’t the sole culprit; millions wake up wind-dried from sleeping through the gusts of a fan. Then, throughout the day, stress-induced over-breathing gets the chairbound urbanite panting through his mouth. Respiratory illness is gagging Thailand. The capital’s fumes and cement dust permeate the Central Plains, while smoke from burning forests and fields choke northern valleys in the hot season.

Traditions support the vapour fetish.

Today’s inhalers continue an indigenous healing culture of aromatherapy and a delight in things perfumed.

> Very Thai

Pictures: John Goss and Philip Cornwel-Smith

River Books | with photos by John Goss & Philip CornwelSmith | B 995

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Very Thai – Everyday Popular Culture is a book that almost every foreigner living in Bangkok has on their bookshelf, a virtual bible on Thailand’s pop culture.

For page after colourful page, city resident and author Philip Cornwel-Smith guides readers on an unconventional tour of the quirky everyday things that make Thailand truly Thai. From the 60-plus minichapters, we present a different excerpt every month. Prepare yourself for the sideways logic in what seems exotic, and snap up a copy of Very Thai now at any good book shop. bangkok101.com

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chronicle of thailand

S N A P S H OT S

october 6 1976:

armed forces crush students at Thammasat

Police and right-wing extremists smashDRUG protest in hours before military coup

LO

OUST

armed fo

P

olice, soldiers and mobs of right-wing extremists from stormed the campus of Thammasat University, beating, Chiang Rai Thai forces killing and raping students hours before the military against drug lord Khun staged a coup, in one of the darkest days in Thai history, his 200-mule opium ca ending the turbulent three-year experiment with democracy.

Several thousand The violence began just before dawn as police and military by planes and helicopte units, along with mobs of Red Gaurs, Nawapon and Village stronghold at Ban Hin T Scouts gathered outside the university. Riled by a photo (SUA). At least 1,000 re they believed showed students hanging the Crown Prince’s as fierce fighting flared effigy and Army radio chants of ‘kill them, kill them’, police After Thai and SUA and others began shooting into the university where students had been demonstrating against the return of Thanoma truce proposal put for Kittikachorn. Some students reportedly returned fire. Tinsulanond stated: “A narcotics trafficking, fac The assault on the campus was spearheaded by police. continue its drive again The mobs poured in, unleashing their fury upon the students.

It was estim Young people were dragged to Sanam Luang, beaten destroyed.” and of the region’s heroin. T hanged from trees to cheers and taunts. Right-wing fanatics extensive headquarters mutilated bodies and burned unconscious victims alive. and equipment as casu Officially, 46 died, although students claimed the true toll In July, Khun Sa’s was far higher. Hundreds were wounded and over a thousand troops, arrested. State-run media announced a coup, a curfew, and fought against t the formation of a military council to run the country. side of Doi Lang mount

Chronicle of Thailand is the story of Thailand during the reign of King Bhumibol Adulyadej. Beginning on the day he was crowned, 9 June 1946, the book presents a vivide eye-witness­account of Thailand’s development through the major news events of the last 64 years.

Alongside a grandstand view of events and quirky aspects of daily life that just happened to make the news, the book features thousands of rare and fascinating pictures and illustrations, repre­senting one of the most comprehensive photo collections of Thailand ever produced.

> Chronicle of Thailand

EDM Books | editor-in-chief

21 January Nicholas1982 Grossman | B1,450

the ride

H

ere in the “land of smiles”, as Thailand likes to bill itself, it’s true that the locals seem to smile often. In addition to expressing pure bliss, the smile is used as a sort of defence mechanism and in tense and awkward social situations. After all, Thais avoid losing face at all costs. Even action figures in Thai taxis sometimes grin from ear to ear.

EDM Books | editor-in-chief Nicholas Grossman | B1,450

Chronicle of Thailand is the story o Adulyadej. Beginning on the day h presents a vivid eye-witness accou major news events of the last 64 y as they unfolded and quirky aspec the news, the book features thous illustrations, representing one of t Thailand ever produced.

still life in moving vehicles

happy

to come for

> Chronicle of Thailand

Chiang Rai provinces. T displaced hundreds of v Border Patrol Police. In Sa’s new base on Doi L constructed 200 buildin

CiTy vS. COUNTRy This cabby literally wears two hats. He dons a baseball cap when he’s driving his cab and puts on this straw hat when he’s farming. This is not uncommon in Bangkok as many cabbies here come from the countryside to drive a taxi between rice plantings and harvests, or when extra income is desperately needed. I asked the driver of this taxi which job he prefers and he told me that he would much rather do farming than drive in this city full of traffic jams and crazy people.

Visual artist and academic, Dale Konstanz snaps photos of the sacred decorations and other bits and bobs he finds in Bangkok taxis, then writes about them on his blog, Still Life in Moving Vehicles (http://lifeinmovingvehicle.blogspot.com).

Published by River Books, the spin-off book, Thai Taxi Talismans, is available at bookstores around town for B995.

SEPTEMBER 2013 | 27

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SIGHTSEEI NG

listings

HISTORIC HOMES ANANTA SAMAKHOM PALACE Throne Hall [map 8/F8] Uthong Nai Rd, opp Dusit Zoo Tue -Sun 10am-6pm | B150 Located at the tail-end of Dusit district’s stately ceremonial boulevard, Ratchadam­ noen, this stately parliamentary palace was built during the reign of Rama V and completed by Rama VI. Cast in white Carrara marble, it is still used for the ceremonial opening of the first parliamentary session.

Influenced by Renaissance architecture, the interior is decorated with detailed frescoes

by Italian Galileo Chini of royal ceremonies and festivities.

Out front stands a statue of King Rama V still worshipped today.

JIM THOMPSON HOUSE [map 4/A3] 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama I Rd BTS National Stadium | 02-216-7368 jimthompsonhouse.com | 9am-5pm B100 / B 50 students American Jim Thompson was the Princeton graduate and former spook who revived the hand-woven Thai silk industry before disappearing mysteriously in Malaysia’s Cameron Highlands in 1967. One of the things to do in Bangkok is visit his tropical garden home beside a pungent canal: six traditional teak houses from around the country kept exactly as he left them.

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M.R. KUKRIT’S HOUSE [map 5/H8] 19 Soi Phra Pinit, Sathorn Rd | 02-286-8185 Sat-Sun 10 am-5pm, Mon-Fri by appt B 50 / B 20 kids Kukrit Pramoj was one of Thailand’s mostloved statesmen of the 20th century. A natural all-rounder, he was a poet, a writer and even served as prime minister. His peace­ful abode with its lovely gardens is a terrific example of Thai architecture.

VIMANMEK MANSION [map 8/F8] 139 / 2 Ratchawithi Rd | 02-281-1569 9:30 am-4pm | B100 The world’s largest teakwood building was originally built on the island of Koh Si Chang, in 1868, and then moved to Bangkok for use

by King Rama V. Its 81 rooms spread over three floors overlook a beautiful garden.

SUAN PAKKAD palace [MAP 8/K11] Si Ayutthaya Rd, Ratchathewi BTS Phaya Thai | 02-245-4934 suanpakkad.com | 9am-4pm | B100 A former market garden that was converted into a residence and garden by Princess Chumbot. Consisting of five reconstructed Thai wooden houses, Wang Suan Pakkard pays testament to her dedication to collecting Thai artefacts and antiques.

ERAWAN SHRINE [map 4/G5] Ratchadamri Rd, near Grand Hyatt Erawan BTS Chit Lom Don’t expect serenity here. This is one

of Bangkok’s busiest intersections: the crowded shrine to the Hindu creation god Brahma and his elephant Erawan is filled with worshippers lighting incense, buying lottery tickets and watching the traditional dancing.

GANESHA SHRINE [map 4/G3] Outside CentralWorld and Isetan Department Store | Ratchadamri Rd A prayer in front of this pot-bellied gold elephant – the son of Shiva and Parvati – is said to help get the creative juices flowing, as well as protect you from harm. Aside from marigold garlands, bring bananas, ripe mango or sticky rice-flour Thai desserts – Ganesha has an eternal appetite.

TRIMURTI SHRINE [map 4/G3] Outside Centralworld and Isetan Department Store | Ratchadamri Rd If your love life is in the doldrums then this shrine is for you: at 9:30 pm each Thursday it’s rumoured that Lord Trimurti descends from the heavens to answer prayers of the heart. To maximise your chances you should offer nine-red incense sticks, red candles, red roses and fruit.

SHRINES THE GRAND PALACE & WAT PHRA KAEW [map 7/D10] Na Phra Lan Rd, near Sanam Luang Tha Chang Pier | 02-222-0094 8:30am-4:30pm | B 400 Bangkok’s most beloved temple and top tourist site is a fantastical, mini-city sized royal complex enclosed by quaintly crenulated whitewalls. Building began in 1782, the year Bangkok was founded, and every monarch subsequent to King Rama I has expanded or enhanced it. Today, despite being able to visit many sights on its grounds, much of it remains off-limits. The Chakri Mahaprasat Hall – the “Westerner in a Thai hat” – is worth seeing. bangkok101.com

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listings

WAT ARUN [map 7/B13] Temple of Dawn, Arun Amarin Rd 02-465-5640 | watarun.org 8am-5pm | B 20 Across the river from Wat Po is Wat Arun, or the Temple of the Dawn, one of the city’s most important religious sites. Before being moved to Wat Phra Kaew, the Emerald Buddha was temporarily housed here. The five-towered structure is covered in colourful porcelain and designed as a representation of the Khmer home of the gods.

WAT PO (reclining buddha) [map 7/D12]

Chetuphon, Thai Wang Rd 02-226-0369 | watpho.com 8am-noon, 1pm-9pm | B100 The Temple of the Reclining Buddha is the oldest and largest wat in Bangkok.

Originating in the 16th century, it houses the largest reclining Buddha statue in Thailand as well as the greatest number of Buddha images.

WAT MAHATHAT [map 7/C8] Tha Prachan, Sanam Luang, Maharat Rd 02-221-5999 | 9am-5pm | Free An amulet market is situated near this 18th century centre of the Mahanikai monastic sect and an important university of Buddhist teaching. On weekends, strings of market stalls are set up on the grounds to complement the vendors of traditional medicines.

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WAT RATCHANATDA [map 7/K8] Mahachai Rd | 02-224-8807 9am-5pm | free This striking temple on the corner of Ratchadamnoen and Mahachai Road features the bizarre Loha Prasat, a multitiered castle-like structure with 36 steel spires. Climb the spiral staircase to the top for good views of the Old City and its many temples.

WAT SAKET [map 7/L8] Chakkraphatdiphong Rd 02-233-4561 | 7:30am-5:30pm | B10 Referred to as the Golden Mount, this wat on a small hillock is worth the hike up 318 steps for the views of China­town to the south and the Old City to the north. The hill is all that is left of the fortifications for a large chedi that Rama III planned to construct on the site that gave way under the weight. Rama V later built a smaller chedi on top.

WAT SUTHAT & the GIANT SWING [map 7/H9] Bamrung Muang Rd | 02-222-9632 9am-5pm | B 20 Wat Suthat is one of the most important Buddhist centres in the kingdom and home to excellent examples of bronze sculpture.

The city’s iconic Giant Swing, where brave – or crazy – men used to swing up to great heights to catch a bag of gold coins in their teeth during annual harvest ceremonies, sits out the front.

SIGHTSEEI NG

WAT TRAIMIT [map 6/L3] 661 Mittaphap Thai-China Rd, Charoen Krung Rd | 02-623-1226 | 8am-5pm | B 20 Housed safely in this unassuming Chinatown temple is the world’s largest solid gold Buddha. Its worth has been estimated at over US$10 million.

MUSEUMS – IN TOWN BANGKOK DOLL MUSEUM [map 8/L11, 12]

85 Soi Ratchataphan (Soi Mo Leng).

Ratchaprarop Rd 02-245-3008 | bangkokdolls.com Mon-Sat 8am-5pm | free Since opening in 1956 the Bangkok Doll Museum has continually attracted tourists, students and aficionados alike with its remarkable collection of hand-made Thai dolls. Founded by Khunying Tongkorn Chandavimol after she completed a doll making course in Japan, it showcases collections of dolls produced by a small team of artisans in the atelier out back, and clad in traditional costumes based on designs lifted from museum originals, temple murals and illustrations from antique books.

bangkokian MUSEUM [MAP 5/E3] 273 Charoen Krung Soi 43, Si Phraya Pier | 02-233-7027 Sat-Sun 10am-4pm | free Smack in the middle of Bangrak, one of the most traditional districts of the city, find this oasis of four traditional Thai houses, one of them lovingly converted into a private museum by the compound’s charming owner, Ms Waraporn Surawadee. She decided to dedicate the place to the memory of her family and bygone daily life of Bangkok everymen – and open it to the public. While visitors shouldn’t expect breathtakingrevelations here, the displays are nevertheless surprisingly fascinating. They include antiques and ceremonial items.

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8/22/13 1:11 PM

LONG BOAT RACES

PHICHIT

O

ne of the country’s oldest and most significant boat races is back again on the Nan River in Phichit from September 7-8. Watch the locals turn up in hordes to cheer on their favourite teams as the competition gets fiercer with each wave.

The race takes place in front of Wat Tha Luang, where homage is paid to the local Buddha statue prior to the event.

Long boat racing is an age-old tradition that started around 600 years ago during the Ayutthaya period. It was an opportunity for young men and soldiers to display their strength, courage and commitment to their country, and to prepare them for any future conflict that they may encounter.

Nowadays, it is a celebration of unity and goodwill, and attracts thousands from across the country.

Each boat represents its respective province, which means there are hundreds of souvenirs and local handmade trinkets on sale along the river, as well as food and refreshments for the thirsty tourist.

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T R AV E L

up country now

September 15 Mizuno River Kwai International Half Marathon One of the oldest races in Thailand, the River Kwai Half and Full marathons are run against the beautiful scenery of central Kanchanaburi. Home of the Burma Railway, the historically significant river now hosts this event. The marathon is open to participants of all ages, and promises to be both fun and challenging. Online registration closes on September 11, so dust off your running shoes and pay a visit to the treadmill or head there to enjoy the sights and sounds of the local town.

For more information, visit amazingfield.com.

September 8-16 Kin Hoi, Doo Nok, Tok Muek Cha Am’s annual festival cashes in on the fact there are increased number of squids in the surrounding waters at this time of year. It’s a good excuse for a blockbuster seafood festival where visitors can either go fishing for their own dinner of take advantage of the countless vendors selling their wares.

The rich seafood numbers coincide with increased numbers of migratory birds in the area – for amateur bird watchers, there are trips to Ta-kad-plee swamp and Nang Panthurat National Park throughout the day.

September 17 The Bathing of Phra Buddha Mahadhamaracha Festival The highly revered Phra Buddha Mahadhamaracha Buddha statue was found over 400 years ago in the Pasak river. The statue is believed to wander out of the temple, and has twice been found in the water where it was first discovered. Visitors to the festival pay homage to the image as it is carried around town, and festivities are held at night and alms are offered to monks. After the ceremony, the river Pasak becomes sacred and locals drink the water or bathe in it before boat races begin.

September 19 Mid Autumn Mooncake Festival This ancient festival is celebrated annually across the country, in both Chinese and Thai communities. It involves the production of mooncakes; circular and often intricately designed pieces of sweet bread, which are made in abundance in honour of the moon. Nowadays, the festival is celebrated with many cultural and regional customs, including incense-burning and traditional folk dancing. However, the highlights of the festival are the floating lanterns which decorate the sky at night. Look around carefully enough and you may even find one of your own.

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up country now

T R AV E L

September 21 Broadway Under The Stars If you enjoy the star-studded spectacles of Chicago or the cabaret performances of Parisian flavour, make sure you attend the first ever Broadway Under the Stars event at the Baan Suoy Resort in Pattaya. This annual charity event promises to be a show-stopping mash-up of contemporary favourites and musical theatre. Be prepared to mingle with the crowd at the swanky Baan Suoy resort as you drink the night away to renditions of Cell Block Tango and Footloose. Tickets cost B1600, and include a gourmet dinner, a gift bag and the chance to win some awesome prizes.

September 21 Sheraton Krabi Adventure Race Adventure racing has steadily risen in popularity over the past few years and the Sheraton Krabi event promises to be the biggest yet. Similar to a decathlon, the event includes running, cycling, swimming and kayaking for two-man teams across the beautiful beaches and wilderness of Krabi. The four-and-a-halfhour race is organised by AMA events with a registration fee of B6950 per team. The last date for registration is September 17 so hurry up and start training. Visit ama-events.com for more information on how you can participate.

September 28-29 Hybrid Stand Up Fighting Coaches Course This unique fighting course at Pattaya’s Bang Sarey Nodic offers a number of ‘stand up’ fighting disciplines including Filipino kickboxing, muay thai, and savate (French kickboxing).

If you’ve ever fancied yourself a mix martial arts enthusiast, or just want to execute a roundhouse kick without hurting yourself, this intense 12-hour course provides the groundwork for mastering these techniques, regardless of your background.

For 200 dollars plus extra living costs, it’s a rare chance to train with some of the world’s leading practitioners in MMA.

September 29-October 6 Koh Samui Latin and Jazz Week Enjoy an entire week of soothing jazz numbers in a tropical paradise in Koh Samui. Starting on September 29, indulge yourself with the sweet sounds of Dina Medina, Nadia Basurto, Deborah Brown and many other musicians from around the world as they serenade you with classic jazz numbers of Duke Gershin and Billie Holiday and enough Latin beats to rejuvenate your senses. Grab a drink, take off your shoes, dance under the moonlight and don’t forget to stay for the after-party. For more information, visit thaijazztravel.com.

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hotel deals senses of samui Bhundhari Spa Resort & Villas Samui 111/1-2 Moo 5 Chaweng Beach, Koh Samui | 07-791-5000 | bhundhari.com Bhundhari Spa Resort & Villas on Samui has an idyllic setting on a sloping hillside leading down to the famous beach of Chaweng. The Southern Thai design lends itself to a comfortable and natural feel, while the contemporary interiors offer sheer indulgence. Experience three nights in a deluxe room, including transfer from Samui airport. The price during the low season is B13,500

deluxe discounts Hard Rock Hotel Pattaya 429 Moo 9, Pattaya Beach Rd, Pattaya | 03-842-8755 | hardrockhotels.com/pattaya As The Beach Boys sang: “T-shirts, cut-offs, and a pair of thongs. We’ve been having fun all summer long.” You can now enjoy the summer and rock your holiday with these special offers.

Book a deluxe city view from Sundays through Thursdays for B2172 per room per night – or, on Fridays and Saturdays, it’s B2639 per room per night.

discover chiang mai Le Méridien Chiang Mai 108 Chang Klan Rd, Chiang Mai | 05-325-3666 | lemeridien.com Discover the beautiful northern capital and indulge yourself in the comforts of Le Méridien Chiang Mai. Marvel in the harmonious blends of modern European style and reflections of ancient Lanna culture. Be inspired by the luxurious setting, complemented by a backdrop of natural beauty.

Rates start at B3500 per room per night.

learn muay thai hansar bangkok 3 Soi Mahadlekluang 2 Ratchadamri Rd, Bangkok | 02-209-1234 | hansarbangkok.com Guests can now learn the art of muay thai kickboxing while staying at Hansar Bangkok.

Features include two nights in a luxurious 59sqm studio suite with complimentary upgrade to 71sqm, daily breakfast at Eve Restaurant, two one-hour sessions of muay thai instruction for one person, including personal trainer, boxing ring and equipment.

Green season offer Rayavadee Resort 214 Moo 2, Krabi | 07-562-0740 | rayavadee.com On the edge of a National Marine Park at the heart of Krabi’s Phranang Peninsula, Rayavadee offers the perfect ‘get away from it all’ holiday experience. It’s B9000 per night, including accommodation in a deluxe pavilion for two people, daily breakfast for two at Raya Dining, Krabi Airport transfers at B500 per person per way. Minimum two-night stay required.

old-school charm 137 Pillars House 2 Soi 1, Nawatgate Rd, Chiang Mai | 05-324-7788 | 137pillarshouse.com 137 Pillars House revives the old-world elegance of the Orient and invites guests to enjoy every modern luxury. You can now get a 30 percent discount from the BAR (Best Available Rate) with minimum two nights’ stay and enjoy a complimentary three-course set dinner or 60-minute refreshing massage.

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the height of

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Accessible by boat from mainland Krabi, Tonsai is a renowned climbing hotspot with an irresistibly relaxed after-hours atmosphere

BY URASA POR BURAPACHEEP

S

piderman Wall stands before us—a majestic chunk of rock rising out of the calm Andaman Sea, its otherwise sheer face striped with limestone like fossilised candlewax. We watch as the first brave souls begin their ascent, their bodies flexing and arching impossibly. Within minutes they have become mere specks. As the first body falls towards the sea, we gasp collectively.

This is deep water soloing—scaling large rock and jumping into the sea. It’s climbing in its purest form, with no set route, no rope, and no protection.

My turn soon comes. At the bottom of Spiderman, the rope ladder creaks and swings. My grip feels steady on the smooth outcroppings. My toes soon find their resting place. These are now the sole square inches of contact between me and the rock.

My only possible path: a seemingly featureless expanse of rock, then a giant lopsided wedding cake of stalactite two arms’ lengths away. From here, the crowd below seem nothing but figurines in toy boats. Lessons from the day’s training come flooding back to me.

Fact one: uncontrolled falls are always more dangerous, especially for a novice. Much better to jump when feeling prepared and comfortable. Fact two: from less than 10 metres, a human body can fall into the water without serious risk – I am five metres beyond that threshold.

Cut off from mainland Krabi by majestic limestone cliffs and carpeted by a dense growth of palms, Tonsai Beach has remained more of an island. From afar, the beach appears almost uninhabited.

At Basecamp Tonsai, visitors wake to the cries of gibbons and a shirtless Thai strums a heart-rending southern tune on his guitar. Next to him, what resembles an elastic rubber band stretches taut between two trees.

A Thai steps nimbly along its length, a cigarette in hand.

The band — a ‘slackline’ — tightens under his weight.

Tonsai’s abundance of fort-like cliffs and amiable, unpretentious vibe have drawn many of the world’s best climbers to its shore. They sit gobbling Thai comfort food and fruitshakes before heading out for the day’s climbs.

Instead, I head to Tonsai’s better-known neighbour, Railay, and a path which leads to Phra Nang Beach and eventually to an inland lagoon, which fills from the sea at each high tide. Below a confusion of tree roots, mudcaked rock, and smooth red earth, a sign reads: “Danger!

Slippery Area Ahead.”

As if on cue, an out-of-breath French couple emerges, their limbs caked in mud. Another man staggers after them, shaking his head and muttering under his breath.

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Photos: Marcus Kraft and Keita Ganesha Mukunda

which broke at excessive weight, and some reported spotting a marijuana plantation.

On my trek, I encounter a system of fixed ropes slick with mud, a few practically vertical drops, a spectacular lookout point, leaves the size of grown men and invisible whirring insects reminiscent of something from Jurassic Park. Later, when I return to Basecamp covered in red earth, nobody raises an eyebrow.

Opposite Andaman Nature Resort’s open-air restaurant, locals tinker with the engine of a stilled Jeep, hoping it will start but unfazed if it doesn’t. My Tonsai comrades— four people from four countries and three continents— have prime seats: the slightly worn cushions in front of Tonsai’s only generator-powered and truly communal cable television. Marcus, a Swiss-based German, tells us he plans to buy a T-shirt that reads: “I’m leaving Tonsai tomorrow... Maybe.”

The nearby Small World Bar is its own universe, filled with a log-panelled counter, bamboo tepee, massive tree sculpture and jungle trinkets. An Italian man joins us inside our thatched pavilion and begins sipping his fruitshake.

“My friend built this place up from scratch. Everything here comes from the jungle,” he says.

Like many of Tonsai’s long-term residents, he calls himself a Rasta, sports dreadlocks and spends his days playing Frisbee.

“It’s a religion. We do everything for a reason,” he insists.

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against the sky. where stars twinkle like fireflies.

Back on the face of Spiderman, the magic of Tonsai seems a world away. Below me, a fellow climber with sculpted biceps looks up from his perch atop a tufa.

“It’s not a fight against the climb,” he tells me, bringing his fist to his chest. “It’s the fight against here.”

My mind goes blank. I step off and am suspended in air.

The waves rush up to meet me. I hit the water.

Later, on Tup Island, a narrow strip of sand extending into an endless expanse of sea, my saviour regales me with his first skydiving experience.

“When they ask ‘Are you ready?’ you want to shout back, ‘No, of course I’m not ready!’ You’re looking down and you see no car, no house. Nothing. It’s just a white field of air. And then you go. ‘‘And as soon as you’re out there floating, you have the biggest smile of your life. And it never leaves your face until you touch the ground.”

A wave rises inside of me. It breaks on to my face as a smile: “Yes, I know what you mean.”

Getting There: Head to Krabi first – long-tail boats depart regularly from Ao Nang.

Accommodation: Most places are located on the main path. The average price is B500 per night, negotiable for longer stays.

Basecamp Tonsai offers climbing and deep water soloing trips. The Sunset Trip (B1200) is held twice a month at half-moon. Check basecamptonsai.com. bangkok101.com

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Tri-Shawa Resort nestled in Klongwann city. It’s originate was a fisherman’s village that still holds on to their traditional custom and a way of living for over 100 years. Klongwann city was located near Prachuap Khiri Khan city which it is the center of Prachuabkirikhan prefecture of Thailand. Apart from the center of itself, Klongwann city was also sitting near a famous spot and sightseeing place from with-in 100 km. radius which can travel easily. Such as Manao bay, Lommuak hill, Chongrajok Mountain, Wahkor science Inst., Singkhorn border gate and many more.

The resort was build based of a simplifying philosophy. Which was telling through a detail of the architecture perspective. Wheter the usage of space, the connection between environment, or even the traditional decoration such as a cane chair. The location of the resort was build next to the sea, waiting for you to experience the leisure and relaxation. As a remember able memory to keep in mind or share it with others.

Tri-Shawa Resort, 332 Moo 1, Tambon Khlong-Wan, Prachuap Khiri-Khan, Thailand 77000 Mobile: 08 9925 4199 Land Line: 03 266 2037 Email: z.trishawa@gmail.com Website: www.tri-shawa.com

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Full Throttle

in

HANOI

Soak up the vibrant street life and exotic food and drink of the former Vietnamese capital before escaping south to the countryside WORDS AND PICTURES BY DAVE STAMBOULIS

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t’s 6am and my girlfriend is ballroom dancing by Hanoi’s Hoan Kiem Lake. This isn’t some hungover hallucination induced by the overpowering rocket fuel coffee found everywhere on the streets. Rather, we thought taking a stroll around Hoan Kiem, a lake often bathed in mist and revered by locals for a legendary sword-toting turtle that is said to lurk in its depths, would be a way to escape Hanoi’s frantic daytime pace. But even at dawn, the park space surrounding the downtown lake is a hubbub of activity.

Young men do push-ups and abdomen crunches, practitioners of tai chi spin their moves in front of the red Thê Húc Bridge, and groups of ballroom dancers gather to awaken their joints, several of whom have grabbed my beau to twirl her across the park.

While the rest of Southeast Asia, from Kuala Lumpur to Bangkok to Ho Chi Minh, seems to have sold its collective soul for newer, taller, and glitzier, Hanoi keeps one foot in the colonial past. Crumbling orange-walled buildings housing art galleries grace every cul-de-sac and many of the statelier French colonial gems, like the grand Opera House or sleek Sofitel Metropole, have been restored to perfection. Combined with leafy boulevards and endless rows of open-air cafes, these could be misplaced Parisian arrondissements, mysteriously turned up in the Orient.

Hanoi shows her true colours in the bustling Old Quarter, and the best way to navigate its chaotic narrow streets is with an in-the-know teenager. Several sympathetic Vietnamese recently figured out that all the clueless tourists staring at the various strange foods and shops would make for great cultural exchange, and thus several voluntary street tour outfits have sprung up, pairing visitors with local university kids who are thrilled to have the chance to show off their hometown and practise English at the same time.

Our guide for the day, Anh, is an exuberant 18-year-old, huffing and flushed in the heat as she leads us by bicycle and on foot through the maze of 36 ancient streets, each one lined with tiny shops selling the product the street is named for. Hang Gai has silk, Hang Quat has fans, Hang Buom has giant bamboo water pipes and Gia Ngu means underwear and is lined with tables heaped with bras and knickers.

That aside, we aren’t here for skivvies but to delve a bit deeper into the fantastic street food and drink that Hanoi has to offer, and are soon sitting on a corner, munching away on banh xeo rice flour pancakes filled with shrimp, which Anh claims are the best in town.

Between bites of the savoury pancakes, Anh suggests we take a trip a few hours south of Hanoi, to her home town of Ninh Binh, famed for its limestone karst peaks which tower over the Tam Coc River, where one can hire rowboats to navigate through mountains and the cave complexes that run through them. Anh says that while most tourists come to Hanoi to visit world-famous Halong Bay, the locals know that the scenery of Ninh Binh is far more enticing.

We take her advice and it doesn’t take much to get us all on a bus headed south and Ninh Binh proves to be even more impressive than the hype suggests. Just a few kilometres out of town, postcard Vietnam emerges,

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with endless verdant rice paddies with farmers in conical bamboo hats silhouetted against limestone pinnacles shrouded in mist. The scenery and complete tranquility are a striking contrast to busy Hanoi but, just as in the city, the locals are the real highlights.

Our boatman and guide on the Tam Coc River, Mr Duc, entertains us by rowing the boat with his feet, a stunt that many of the local paddlers have learned, enabling them to eat and drink while cruising along, or even borrow our cameras to take snaps of our disbelieving smiles. Duc tells us that, until recently, men didn’t do the rowing here but with the growing domestic and foreign tourist scene, more feet were required to handle the boats.

“Besides, my wife doesn’t bother me any more when I want to relax with a drink,” he says with a wink, and as we float into one of the river’s eerie dark cave complexes, he pulls out a bottle of rice whiskey and several shot glasses.

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to know exactly where to steer the boat and the whiskey goes down smooth with a hint of fresh apricot. Duc tells us it is from his special stash of Son Tinh whiskeys, a brand of fine rice liquor made with herbs and fresh fruit by a place called Highway Four, an upscale tavern-style bar and restaurant in Hanoi which Anh promises to take us to.

Duc tells us that the place is run by a foreigner who started the place as the local bar for the Minsk Motorcycle Club, which tours all over Vietnam on old Russian choppers, and that even though it has become trendy among the young and well-off, they still have plenty of local northern fare, such as crickets roasted in pig fat or pigeon grilled with forest pepper, on the menu along with all the superb homemade whiskeys.

Back in Hanoi, Anh has realised that we enjoy a good drink just as much as the locals, so leads us out once again into the cacophony of motorbikes and bamboo basket-laden vendors for a stop at her favorite bia hoi stall. Bia hoi, meaning ‘fresh beer’, is a light lager brewed without preservatives and found everywhere in northern Vietnam, served up to the masses at the whopping price of 10-15 baht a glass. The kegs can be found everywhere and patrons usually sit on plastic stools out on the street, taking a break from the heat and getting soused for less than a decent meal would cost.

My girlfriend nudges me and whispers that we haven’t managed to get Anh to take us to most of the spots on our sightseeing list, like the Temple of Literature or Ho Chi Minh’s mausoleum, not to mention not getting to Halong Bay, and that all we have done so far is eat and drink out 42 | SEPTEMBER 2013

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on the streets. I nod but whisper back that we did get to Ninh Binh and are getting a glimpse of the real Hanoi.

About 10 glasses in, we are toasting with an elderly grandmother on one side, and a dapper young Samsung executive on the other.

The exec wants to know if we’ve tried the local rice whiskey yet and the granny is inviting us to come and have a cup of the famed local weasel coffee, strong Arabica beans that have that have passed through the digestive tract of a civet cat, which supposedly eliminates bitterness and smoothes taste.

As I ponder cat-poo coffee and fruit whiskey, while yet another round of lager is brought to our curbside squat, I realise that this full-throttle city, with its vibrant street life, demands visitors live in the moment and offers bottomless rewards for those who can.

Stay: The Sofitel Metropole (+84-4-3826-6919; sofitel-legend.com) is a French colonial time period masterpiece and Hanoi’s most atmospheric place to stay, conveniently located minutes from the Old Quarter, Hoan Kiem Lake, and the Opera House.

Eat: Highway Four (+84-4-3715-0577; highway4.com).

The original 5 Hang Tre location in the Old Quarter is the most ambient and a great spot to sample regional food and outstanding house-made rice liquors.

Ninh Binh: The town can be reached in two-and-a-half hours from Hanoi’s Giap Bat bus station or via Open Tours (sinhcafe.com). The caves and rivers of Tam Coc are seven kilometres from the city. bangkok101.com

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grief happiness consciousness at chamchuri art gallery

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a r t

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only consciousness remains Kanchana Buri Ganga’s work sets out to remind people that while grief and happiness are temporary elements in our lives, consciousness remains. But what happens when you lose that as well? Kanchana’s paintings highlight the fragility of the human mind and how it can be easily lost in its own darkness.

Grief Happiness Consciousness will be showing at Chamchuri Art Gallery (Chulalongkorn University Jamjuree Bld 8, Phayathai Rd; 02-218-3709; chamchuriartgallery. blogspot.com) from September 14-29.

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exhibitions

Labyrinth of my Mind Koi Art Gallery [MAP 3/k8] 43/12 Sukhumvit Soi 31 | 02-662-3218 10am-7pm | koiartgallerybangkok.com

Until September 15 Abstract art plays with the viewer’s expectations and interpretations can differ wildly. Here, Kamol Tamseewan delivers a metaphysical portrait of his inner thoughts, emotions and experiences through a series of brushstrokes that are both mystical and jarring to the senses. The simplicity of his workpales against the complexity infusing each stroke, as Kamol tells us a story full of hope, tragedy, and triumph.

Under Construction WTF Gallery [MAP 3/q10] 7 Sukhumvit soi 51 | 02-662-6246 Tues-Sun 6pm-midnight | wtfbangkok.com

Until September 15 Bangkok-based artist Eiji Sumi’s contemporary work of collating paint with objects found at a construction site presents a unique blend of conceptual dystopia; one incorporating the carnage of realism and the surreal quality of the imagination. Now a professor at Chulalongkorn University, Sumi’s progressive work has been turning heads throughout the art scene.

Life in Nature

DOB Hualamphong Gallery [MAP 8/f12] 4F DOB Building 318 Rama 4 Rd | 02-422-2092 Tues-Sat 10.30am-7pm, Sun 10.30am-5.30pm | dobthailand.com

September 17 – October 27 Hualamphong Gallery presents a collection of prints by four different artists using four different methods. Inspired by nature and its purity, the exhibition boasts an eclectic collection of mixed media, silk screen and woodcut images.

The artwork aims to portray the ‘magnetism’ of nature and its majestic appeal to our senses in a way that is unique and different from what’s been done before.

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exhibitions

A R T & C u lt u r e

Common - Nature

ARDEL’s Third Place Gallery [MAP 3/s6] 137-137/1 Thong Lor Soi 10 | 02-422-2092 | Tues-Sat 10.30am-7pm, Sun 10.30am-5.30pm | thirdplacebangkok.com

September 19 – October 27 Photorealistic artwork rarely impresses nowadays, yet Chutchawan masterfully captures the stillness of serenity with a hint of sadness. The result is a mesmerising echo of the simple things we take for granted in nature, yet here they are given a much larger presence. Whether it’s a leaf falling into a pond or endless moss crawling over the surface of water, these elements are strikingly alive.

From Craft to Art Thavibu Gallery [MAP 5/d5] 4F Silom Galleria. Silom Soi 19 02-218-3709 | 10am-7pm | thavibu.com

September 21 – October 19 To coincide with the release of the art e-book of the same name, Thavibu Gallery presents the very best of Vietnamese lacquer paintings by three of the country’s most prominent artists. The exhibition hopes to re-introduce contemporary lacquer art back into the limelight, as it has played a significant role in Vietnam’s art and culture in the past.

Karma Police

100 Tonson Gallery [MAP 4/j8] 100 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd | 02-684-1527 Thurs-Sun 11am-7pm | 100tonsongallery.com

Until November 3 Yuree Kensaku’s latest exhibition takes the viewer on a journey of her personal life. After being cheated by a construction contractor, leading to the loss of her home and studio, Yuree analyses the many perspectives of karma and the world around it through her fibreglass artwork. Her unique style is both illusory and intricate in detail, often blurring the line between sculpture and illustration.

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Room to move Whitespace Gallery has a new home but its commitment to showing challenging art remains.

BY TOM STURROCK

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“we had the space and just painted the walls white. we had no mission, no business plan”

D

avid Mayer didn’t set out to become the curator of his own art gallery. After moving from Boston to Thailand in 2001, Mayer used his background in architecture to found his own design firm, Whitespace, with an office in Siam Square. Although his design work remained the priority, landing him the “dream assignment” of setting up Apple’s retail stores through Thailand, Mayer also discovered he had the time and space to house an art gallery in his firm’s building.

“We had three floors in the Lido building and it occurred to me to open up an art gallery,” he says. “I’d been around a lot of studios in Bangkok and seen a lot of challenging art sitting around. We had the space and we just painted the walls white. But we had no mission, no business plan.

“We did a lot of solo exhibitions, sometimes installations that maybe didn’t have a lot of commercial potential. That can be tough for galleries if they have to make money but we had a lot of interest in the press and a lot of interest among the intellectual art crowd. I was really keen to participate – I had always been interested in art that didn’t pander to collectors.”

Last month, though, after running out of room in Siam Square, Whitespace opened its doors at its new location in Silom.

“The move was pragmatic in that the Lido building was slated for demolition, so we had been looking for a new location for a couple of years,” Mayer says. “We didn’t want to be in an office building but we needed the kind of space that’s not easy to find in old shophouses. But we found a perfect space and although it’s not going to get a lot of walk-ins, we figure it will be bit of a destination. ‘‘The owners of the building want to develop it as being part of a creative community, alongside photographic studios and smaller design firms. We’re tailor-made for that. We’d love to be part of an area where there are lots of galleries around.” bangkok101.com

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The first exhibition in the new space, Soul Sciences, showcases work from Manit Kantasak and Prasert Yamazaki, two Thai artists whose work appeared previously at the Siam Square gallery. Their works are strikingly different but share some common ground: both incorporate a scientific, almost forensic approach in creating art. Manit, for example, dissects tree parts and presents them as an installation (above left).

“Manit works a lot with trees and for one installation at our old space, he dragged in an entire tree, roots and all,” Mayer says.

“He strips back the bark and turns them into sculpture but, at Siam Square, you’ve got all these little shops selling shoes and T-shirts, and then there’s this giant tree sitting in there in this pristine white space.’’

Prasert, meanwhile, presents schematics and blueprints for objects drawn from his imagination (main image).

“Prasert’s work – I’m an architect and a lot of his drawings remind me of those old Da Vinci sketches. He’s like an artistic engineer, showing things that are unfinished, these plans for 3D constructions,” Mayer says. ‘‘He’s got the ABC sections drawn in but he’s also imagining elements from Thai mythology and mixing that into a modern context. It fuses his sense of Thainess with what’s happening around him and to some extent questioning whether Thai culture is being subverted.”

soul sciences until October 13 whitespace gallery

[MAP 5/m6]

1 Sala Daeng Soi 1 Rama 4 Rd | 081-699-5298 whitespacegallery.com | Noon-6pm

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cheat notes

THAI FORESTRY: A CRITICAL HISTORY Ann Danaiya Usher | B625

Not as wooden as it sounds, this outspoken book traces the centuries-old tension between those who manage Thailand’s forests and those who live in them.

A former writer at the Nation newspaper, Usher recounts the watershed moments when imported forest management theories, often imposed without concern for local conditions, were challenged.

She also picks holes in the ideas themselves, including one which sought to break the bond communities had with forests – scary when you consider the number of forest-dependent minority groups here.

Intelligently argued and often riveting, it’s a controversial read, one that should be read by not just your average tree-hugger but anyone interested in Thailand’s ecological well-being.

famulous eateries

Cranky Little Monster | B395 A very neat idea – an insider’s restaurant guide meets a pocket-sized pack of cards. On each of these 52 cards is a description of a ‘famulous’ (famous and fabulous, get it?) food joint, as well as the address, a map and the all important ‘Taxi Thai’ directions.

Clearly, they’ve done their homework – but the selection itself is the clincher.

From B9 bowls of boat noodles on Ratchathewi to suburban gems like Ladphrao’s Pathe, everyone will find something new to get their teeth into.

There are some obvious flaws of course: drop your cards on the street and you’ll be fishing around in the gutter. But also some practical uses and fun card-game potential too. You could pop a few in your wallet, say, for those moments when you’re flailing in Bangkok’s vast culinary ocean; or, even better, leave it in the lap of the Thai food Gods and deal them out to your friends.

A R T & C u lt u r e

asian aphrodisiacs Jerry Hopkins | B550

It should shock no one to read that Bangkok’s best-known resident biographer, now well into his 70s, has a yen for Viagra. At least Jerry Hopkins is cheerfully straight-up about his reliance on the trouser-rouser.

He thus admits to a healthy dose of scepticism when it comes to quainter Asian aphrodisiacs, saying in the preamble that “most of it” – the Tiger’s penis potions; the sheep’s eye cockrings; and other bewildering exotic erotica – “is crapola”.

Even so, his upbeat romp through the history of Oriental pick-me-ups is always a curiosity-arousing affair. And the old chap gets endearingly handson whenever given the opportunity to sample the local pocket-rocket fuel.

You have to admire his pluck and his willing – and evidently more than a few have done exactly that.

jan dara Nonzee Nimibutr | 2001 Based on the most notorious erotic novel in Thai literature, Jan Dara is a gothic exploration of twisted sex, corroded families, and… more twisted sex. Born to a philandering father who hates him, Jan Dara vows not to repeat his dad’s shocking behaviour but then there’s Dad’s scorchingly hot mistress. The film and its hero predictably descend into a humid, perverse rapture of lust, amid a sumptuously shot background of finger-waved hair and Saharan expanses of golden flesh. For all its sensuality, Jan Dara ladles on the melodrama and the moralising to make sure we don’t forget the lessons of both Freud and the Buddha amid the moaning. bangkok101.com

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days of the

Junta Photographer Nic DunlopXXX spent nearly 20 years chronicling life under military XXX rule in Myanmar.

XXX WORDS BY TOM STURROCK WORDS BY XXXX

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N

ic Dunlop first travelled to Myanmar in 1995 – it was known as Burma back then – and has since returned more times than he can count. Now based in Bangkok, Dunlop has released a collection of images in a new book, Brave New Burma. Although Myanmar is moving from direct military rule to civilian government, with Aung San Suu Kyi becoming an international symbol of democracy, Dunlop’s images capture every-day life under the junta.

“One of my frustrations with traditional media is that it can only cover something if it’s dramatic,” he says. “I wanted to cover something that was ongoing.

“And that was difficult because it wasn’t always obvious – the military was so entrenched that there was no need to have troops on the streets. So on one hand I began to doubt my medium but it also became a unique challenge to find a way to convey this.”

In 1996, Dunlop gained access to Suu Kyi, Myanmar’s most prominent opposition politician, who spent years under house arrest.

“All the pictures of her that I had seen showed her looking glamorous and often smiling, as though it was a mere trifle to be under house arrest,” Dunlop says.

“Those images contrasted with the kind of person I felt she was – a very courageous dissident.

“She’s a woman of real idealism and principle and her position had taken a toll – not just the pressure of everyday life but the pressure of history.”

Although Dunlop admires Syu Kyi, he admits meeting her cast her in a new light.

“A journalist friend went to do an interview so I went along to take photos,” he says. “My friend asked her about the student uprising in 1988 – the students then fled to the border of Burma and Thailand and became the All Burma Students Democratic Front and continued to oppose the junta. And she said, words to the effect of: ‘They should stop playing soldiers in the jungle and go abroad to get an education so they can come back and rebuild the country.’

“We were taken aback. These students weren’t children anymore and no one goes by choice into a malariainfested jungle. We admired her but she came from a privileged background and there was a disconnect.”

Brave New Burma is currently available at Asiabooks and Hard Cover books.

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A LAAB PED KRAPOW GROB AT BASIL P62

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AROy ku de ta soon to arrive

One of the most eagerly anticipated new locations finally arrives in Bangkok this month, when Ku De Ta (Sathorn Square Complex, 98 North Sathorn Rd; 02-108-2000; kudeta.com) opens its doors. Exact details about opening dates are still sketchy but, with sprawling interiors, cutting-edge design, multiple dining areas and two clubs, it promises to make a major spalsh when it lands.

wine dinner crowne plaza

There’s a serious meal on offer at Panorama Restaurant and Deck Bar (Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park, 952 Rama IV; 02-632-9011; crowneplazabkk.com) at the French Grand Cru Wine and Food Pairing on September 27-28. There’s a 14-course dinner menu featuring classic French cuisine, including hot and cold foie gras, goose, veal and wild boar. Tickets are B3999.

new burger at firehouse

The battle to serve Bangkok’s best burger has gone up a notch recently, with Firehouse Pub and Restaurant (3/26 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-651-3643) launching a new offering, called The Baconist, which has mixed Thai-French beef with hardwood smoked bacon into one incredible slab of prime meat.

Tooped with American cheese, lettuce, tomato and mayo, it’s going to be hard to beat.

rocket coffee bar

Ben-David Sorum, Dannie Sorum, and Thomas Anostam, the Swedes that previously scored a hit with Hyde & Seek Gastro Bar have joined forces with American food and drink hotshot Jared O’Brien to launch Rocket Coffeebar (149 Sathorn Soi 12; rocketcoffeebar.com; 02-635-0407), delivering a mixture of fine wines, gourmet cafe fare and top-drawer tea and coffee.

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so delicious Some of the world’s finest culinary minds arrive in Bangkok this month for the Sofitel So Bangkok’s So Amazing Chefs event – so much good food, so little time.

A

s Paul Smart, Sofitel So Bangkok’s executive chef, demonstrates exactly how to prepare a white fish mariniere with lobster tea, he recalls last year’s So Amazing Chefs event, which returns this month, bringing nine of the world’s most expert, innovative chefs together in Bangkok for a four-day celebration of food.

In particular, Smart recalls the ‘culinary showdown’ between the world-class chefs which has returned to this year’s programme due to popular demand.

“It started off pretty friendly,” Smart says. “But chefs are a competitive bunch so they ended up taking it pretty seriously.”

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BY TOM STURROCK

view from the hotel’s Park Society. Some pupils barely seem to know which end of the knife to use, while others demonstrate some surprising expertise. Aside from the white fish mariniere – effectively a seafood carpaccio – there’s a roasted tenderloin beef rossini with pan-seared foie gras and a mixed berry souffle.

Thsi, of course, is a mere entree to what’s scheduled at the So Amazing Chefs event later this month, when a range of cooking classes with be held with the visiting chefs. Whether it’s molecular cuisine or wine-tasting or indulging your sweet tooth by working with gourmet chocolate, the programme has something for everyone.

“The feedback we received from last year’s inaugural event was overwhelming and we’re delighted to organise bangkok101.com

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feature

FOOD & DRIN K

the kitchen talent Paul Smart Born in Australia, Smart did his apprenticeship at the Ritz London and cooked for Queen Eliabeth. He has since taken the reins at Sofitel So Bangkok’s executive chef, where he has won a swag of awards.

He also managed to challenge – and win – on Iron Chef Thailand.

Sebastian Bouillet Lauded as France’s top pastry chef, Bouillet owns and operates boutiques in Lyon and Tokyo. He also runs Gateau Ecole, a pastry-making school in Vieux-Lyon.

A distinguished patisseier-choclatier, Bouillet is a member of Relais Dessert International and Toques Blanches du monde.

Alain Caron His profile skyrocketed after his role as one of the MasterChef judges but Caron was well-known in the Netherlands long before his appearance on Dutch television, having carved out a career working in Michelin three-star restaurants.

Gilles Faelens A master sommelier, Faelens owns Bacchantes wine bar in Amsterdam and also specialises in importing wine from southwestern France. His refined taste has allowed him to become one of the leading suppliers of wines in the Netherlands and he also organises dinners and tasting events.

Francois Geurds The Dutch chef-owner of the Michelin one-star Ivy in Rotterdam is a master of molecular cuisine, creating mind-blowing combinations without using dyes,

the second So Amazing Chefs,” Sofitel So general manager Gilles Cretallaz says.

“Not only does the event reflect the Sofitel commitment to gastronomy but it really is just a wonderful reason for us to get together, exchange ideas and, of course, showcase the immense talents of the participating chefs.

“As with last year, we will again be hosting a culinary showdown with proceeds going to charity and I hope our guests will take advantage of the rare opportunities to get up close and personal with the culinary artists.”

Alternatively, if that all sounds too intense, the sevencourse menu being served on the closing Saturday night, hosted at Park Society, may appeal. Tickets are B4000 per head, or B5000 with a wine pairing. With two main courses and two desserts, it promises to be a truly memorable meal.

The only thing for organisers left to worry about is whether the visiting chefs can curtail their competitive instincts long enough to survive until the blockbuster dinner on the final night. bangkok101.com

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additives or binders. His constant pursuit of new ideas has allowed him to travel the world and become an expert on cooking trends.

Patrick Jeffroy Inspired by the sea and soil of Britany, Jeffroy sources the finest produce to create gourmet Breton food and in 2011 produced his award-winning seafood cookbook, Faim de mer en fin de terre – or ‘hungry sea at the end of the earth’.

Stephane Bonnat Hailed by his many admirers as the ‘encyclopedia of chocolate’, Bonnat is the maitre-choclatier of his family business, which was established in 1884 in France and remains the longest-running chocolaterie in the world.

His artisan delicacies include single-origin chocolates, some dating back to the Incan Empire.

Christophe Paucod Offering authentic Lyonnais-style cuisine in the heart of Tokyo, Paucod has become one of the leading French chefs in Japan and formerly worked with Sofitel Tokyo. He runs a traditional bouchon and organises annual French culinary events to showcase the food of his homeland.

Didier Corlou Now based in Hanoi, Corlou has travelled the world, cooking for presidents in Africa and royalty in Asia. His titles include Master Cjef of France and Five-Dtar Diamond award winner. He is chef-owner of La Verticale and Madame Hien in Hanoi.

sofitel so bangkok

[MAP 8/l16]

2 North Sathorn Rd | 02-624-000 | sofitel.com

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meal deals

thai-french fusions sofitel so bangkok [MAP 8/l16]

2 North Sathorn Rd | 02-624-000 | sofitel.com Throughout the month of September, award-winning Chef Paul Smart will be bringing you to discover dining experiences from the best of two traditions; a perfect fusion between the combination of Thai and French cuisines only at Park Society on the 29th floor. Enjoy this five-course set menu at only B3599 per person.

seafood september Novotel Siam Square [MAP 4/d5]

392/44 Siam Square Soi 6 | 02-209-8888 | novotelbkk.com Feast on oysters, prawns, European salmon, New Zealand green mussels and fresh catches from the Gulf of Thailand and the Andaman Sea at Novotel Bangkok on Siam Square during the Thursday night international seafood buffet dinner at The Square for only B1050 per person – or from the special seafood menu at Lok Wah Hin Chinese restaurant from B490.

delicious new menu 99 Rest Backyard Café [MAP 2/h10]

Soi Rama 9 41, Rama 9 Rd | 02-300-4339 | 99-rest.com An exciting new menu offers even more choices with a focus on fresh, seasonal ingredients, hand-picked local produce and specially sourced items, such as Royal Project garden greens, the finest grade of Australian lamb and succulent Boston lobster. Try the perfectly seared Alaskan jumbo scallops served with a flavourful ratatouille à la Provençale.

seafood extravaganza at celadon The Sukhothai Bangkok [MAP 8/l17]

3 South Sathorn Rd | 02-344-8888 | sukhothai.com Discover the secrets of the deep. Enjoy the freshest of fish and prawn specials as Chef Chamlong presents a unique selection of great-tasting Thai seafood dishes at Celadon. Authentic recipes include deep-fried sheatfish with turmeric, spicy smoked rainbow trout soup and river prawn in yellow curry, each of which demonstrates his renowned preparation techniques.

spectacular sunday brunch Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit [MAP 3/g9]

2F Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Rd | 02-126 9999 | sofitel.com The Magnifique Sunday Brunch at Voilà! is the perfect choice for a special celebration. Join in every Sunday from noon-3pm. It’s B3999 with free-flow sparkling wines, cocktails and house wines or B2600 with soft drinks. On the last Sunday of the month, enjoy the Special Veuve Clicquot Champagne Magnifique Sunday Brunch for B4999.

international buffet Holiday Inn Bangkok Sukhumvit 22 [MAP 3/l10]

1 Sukhumvit Soi 22 | 02-683-4888 | facebook.com/Holidayinnbangkoksukhumvit22 Indulge in a spread of buffet items with hand-rolled sushi and maki rolls, soups and pastas. The grill station offers seabass, beef and pork steaks plus a great selection of homemade sweets and dessert. The dinner buffet adds more value with fresh sashimi, miso soup and wakame salad and chilled seafood. The lunch buffet is B299 Mon-Sat and dinner buffet is B499 every day.

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snapper

- Serious about seafood Within Bangkok’s vast melting pot of international cuisines, poor old New Zealand can get overlooked, but it ensures anyone who ventures down the sub-soi that snakes left from Cheap Carlie’s on Sukhumvit Soi 11 to Snapper has a joyous discovery waiting for them.

New Zealand cuisine is hard to define precisely but it emphasises quality produce, and allows it to speak for itself with uncomplicated presentation. This works particularly well when it comes to seafood and, although Snapper has a lowkey, laidback atmosphere, owners Mark and Craig take their produce very seriously, importing it all the way from the chilly waters of the Tasman.

It pays off handsomely. The Nelson Bay scallops, sauteed in white wine, butter and chives (B790) epitomise the approach of not masking the natural goodness of the product with a stack of heavy sauces and extra ingredients. That seafood taste is there in spades, along with a perfectly firm yet tender texture that identifies top-drawer seafood. They’ve got some stiff competition from the mussels, though, served as starters (B200-B300) or in a more substantial sharing platter (B480), topped with spiced tomato that offsets the ocean-infused tang without ever overwhelming it. bangkok101.com

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Snapper has done its darnedest to set itself apart as serving the best fish and chips in Bangkok and it’s pretty hard to argue with the orange roughie (B480) that just comes apart effortlessly on the plate and, with a squirt of lemon, works spectacularly on the tongue. There’s a vast selection: from red gurnard to flounder to kingfish and plenty more besides.

But if you think the Kiwis are keen on their seafood – they are, with good cause – they’re pretty jazzed about New Zealand lamb and beef as well. And while Snapper’s menu remains heavily seafood-focused, the addition of a small but brilliantly executed meat section is a masterstroke.

The generous, succulent lamb chops (B690) come with a selection of homemade sauces that will have you licking the plate clean.

Snapper manages to be a chilled-out, inviting spot without compromising one iota on quality. It’s a winning combination that should put Kiwi cuisine on every diner’s radar.

snapper

[MAP 3/f8]

1/20-22 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-651-1098 | snapper-bangkok.com Mon-Fri 5pm midnight, Sat-Sun noon-midnight

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review

basil - Familiar but still fantastic The market for Thai food is so crowded and so competitive that there is enormous pressure for restaurants to reinvent themselves, to adapt their dishes, to modernise, to innovate, to borrow from elsewhere and do something wildly different. Everyone seems to have a concept. Amid all the new-fangled adventures in Thai food, it can be easy to forget what makes Thai few so popular and so satisfying in the first place: those intense, clear-cut flavours.

Basil, in the Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, presents a glittering array of these Thai favourites – it’s not over-the-top in terms of innovation but nor is there a single false note.

Among the appetisers, the soft-shelled crab (right), or poo nim clook nga thord (B390), sets the bar high early on. Served with sesame seeds and tamarind sauce, there’s the full gamut of salty, spicy and sweet, encapsulating in one mouthful why people the world over can’t get enough of Thai food.

The chef’s recommendations include the grilled scallops in coconut milk, or tom kha hoy shell yang (B400). Normally the best seafood dishes go easy on seasoning to retain the seafood flavour, but the coconut milk is mild enough that it doesn’t dominate but still introduces a delicate aftertaste.

Tom yum gai is essentially a spicy chicken soup (B290 or B540) but when you throw in the mushrooms, lemongrass, a stack of Thai herbs and more than a pinch of spice, it is elevated way beyond the realms of comfort food. Soup might 64 | SEPTEMBER 2013

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seem like the most basic aspect of any restaurant’s menu but it is, as with all the familiar dishes at Basil, right on the money.

There’s also a cracking yellow curry with snowfish, or gaeng garee pla hima (B460 or B660), again served in coconut milk but without veering all the way to a massaman flavour. Along with the soft-shell crab, it’s the stand-out.

Leave room for dessert, though, because, if anything, this is where Basil becomes a bit more adventurous – it’s impossible to go past the mango sticky rice pudding, or khao niew mamuang (B290), but the crepe bai toey (B280) – that’s pandan crepes with shredded sweet coconut and ice cream – is also gorgeous.

In the end, the food at Basil just makes sense – it just works, in a way that appears almost effortless, which may be the mark of its indisputable quality.

basil

[MAP 3/h10]

1F Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit | 02-649-8366 basilbangkok.com | Sun-Fri noon-2.30pm, daily 6pm-10.30pm

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saras - Vegetarian with a kick Bangkok may be one of the most exciting places on the planet to eat out but it can, at times, be a lonely place for vegetarians, given the lashings of meat and seafood that line most menus. Saras, though, which has been open in Bangkok for three years after starting off in Pattaya, provides a vast selection of traditional Indian vegetarian street food.

Meat-lovers tend to be suspicious of vegetarian food, complaining that it just lacks something, whether it be flavour or the heft that comes with having a hunk of flesh on the plate.

Impressively, Saras delivers on the question of flavour, using the finest spices to give their food all the kick that diners have come to expect from Indian food. And, in Saras’s expansive menu, there are selections from throughout India, not just the northern Punjabi region that tends to be over-represented in Indian restaurants.

Try, for example, the amazing dosas (B110-220), which are a light south Indian pancake with more in common with Sri Lankan food than the heavier curries of the north. They come with a variety of fillings but the lentil-based sambar is as satisfying as any. The pani puri (B120) is another Indian favourite, small pastry balloons that are torn open and then filled with a mixture of tamarind, mint-flavoured water, spicy potatoes, onions and chickpeas.

But the signature dish at Saras is likely their daal bati churma thali (B250), a traditional spread of Indian dishes all bangkok101.com

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served up on one enormous plate (above), including two vegetable dishes, a curry prepared in north Indian style, a sweet, a yoghurt-based fried snack and enough roti to help you wipe up the crumbs. At Saras, the Thalis are so massive that it’s hard to imagine anyone being able to finish one.

There’s also an interesting selection of sweets at Saras. Try the gulab jamun (B15 per piece), fried milk-based dumplings soaked in rose-flavoured syrup, or the jalebi (B35 per piece), a sweet deep-fried pastry dipped in warm saffron syrup.

Vegetarians might have to get by without eating meat but, as Saras proves, there’s no need for them to deprive themselves of exotic desserts. And, aside from giving vegetarians more dining options, Saras also does a great job of introducing less familiar Indian dishes to curious Western tastebuds.

saras

[MAP 3/L11]

15 Sukhumvit Soi 20 | 02-401-8484 | saras.co.th Mon-Fri 8.30am-10.30pm, Sat-Sun 8.30am-11pm

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the mayflower

- The way dim sum should be done In some ways, dim sum has become a victim of its own popularity. Like an incredibly tasty Chinese ‘bits and pieces’, it has become so ubiquitous that it’s easy to forget how it is meant to be presented and, most importantly, how it tastes when done with superb authenticity. At The Mayflower, the flagship Cantonese restaurant at the Dusit Thani Bangkok, authenticity is the name of the game and the results are delicious.

You’ve probably seen the liquid-centred buns with salted egg in the centre in various places around Bangkok – even, gasp, in 7-11 and other convenience stores. Of course, there’s none of that at The Mayflower, their gourmet version making a perfect, creamy starter (fried or steamed for B150).

But the really impressive courses are to come and, although dim sum serving sizes tend to be on the smaller side, the menu at The Mayflower is exceptionally satisfying and interesting enough to start a tug-of-war over the Lazy Susan.

The minced shrimp roll comes out wrapped in nori, and topped with ikura, which is salmon roe (B180). But it’s quickly overshadowed by the one-two punch of steamed snowfish with miso sauce (B180) and the crispy scallop, shrimp and crab roll wrapped in seaweed (B150).

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The popularity of snowfish seems to have skyrocketed in recent years and it is a natural fit for Asian flavours – it retains its light taste and texture while also offsetting more potent seasonings. The scallop, shrimp and crab, on the other hand, is an indulgence for seafood fans, three dishes using seriously high-end produce squeezed together.

If you’re still hungry after that, the abalone wonton steamed and served with traditional dipping sauces (B300) is a stunning reminder of why we often make the mistake of ‘filling up on wontons’ and why we can’t resist having a second go at one, this time steamed and topped with flying fish caviar and pumpkin sauce (B400).

The Mayflower is also knee-deep in mooncakes at the moment. See our rundown on p70. They’ve got a range of flavours – try the durian if you’re game but chances are, unless you’re keen on this ‘acquired taste’, you’ll prefer the milder flavours.

the mayflower

[MAP 8/k16]

Dusit Thani Bangkok, 946 Rama IV Rd 02-200-9000 | dusit.com | 11.30am-2pm, 6pm-10pm

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CUISINE ART

The Fine Art of Thai Cuisine Ruen Urai, “the House of Gold”, combines Thai culinary art with elegant ambience. Inspired by Thailand's diverse regions, cultures and styles, our gastronomic creations vary from royal Thai cuisine to refined home-­cooking. Discover the secret oasis of Ruen Urai.

Casual dining and bar from noon to 11pm.

Ruen Urai at the Rose Hotel 118 Soi Na Wat Hualumphong, Surawongse Road Tel: 66 (0) 2266-­8268-­72 Fax: 66 (0) 2266-­8096 www.rosehotelbkk.com www.ruen-­urai.com

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FOOD & DRIN K

bawarchi

- Tandoori treats The smell of Indian food is a remarkable appetiser in its own right - those mouthwatering aromas of spices and rich sauces, all with that extra tandoori goodness.

Thankfully, Bawarchi – which has a handful of outlets around Bangkok to go with the main restaurant in Chidlom – also do a cracking mango lassi to keep us going.

Granted, it’s probably not very adventurous when it comes to Indian food but we struggle to forgo the samosas and Bawarchi’s crusty little parcels of goodness (B185) break open and spill their steaming innards on to the plate.

Samosas, of course, might not seem like the most exciting dish on their own but Bawarchi’s selection of chutneys allows diners to sweeten or lighten the flavours as they like.

Bawarchi certainly doesn’t skimp on variety of choice – indeed, there’s a whole section of the menu devoted to different kinds of barbecue chicken. The murgh malai kebab (350) has a milder flavour, marinated in Indian herbs and cheese, while the Afghani chicken (B580), flavoured with cashew nuts and creams, is richer and more distinctive.

For diners conditioned to think of Indian food as being little more than papadums and chicken tikka, the seafood section at Bawarchi might raise some eyebrows. Without bangkok101.com

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straying too far from the tried and tested formulas of northern Indian cuisine, the tandoori king prawns (B650), smoked over charcoal, offer a chance to broaden the horizons.

No one’s knocking the chicken tikka, though, even if, as connoisseurs will know, it’s not strictly Indian food. Rather, it is more likely a Mughal creation, its spices specially toned down for the British palate during the days of Empire. Still, Bawarchi’s version (B400), with a slightly fiery, gloriously gooey sauce, offers a simple explanation of how it conquered the world.

The rogan josh (B400) is equally a staple of Indian restaurants the world over and Bawarchi’s dish serves up a pleasingly power-packed mouthful of chilli along with the gentler lamb flavours. Mopped up with a a few handfuls of garlic naan, Bawarchi’s food is head-clearing comfort food of the highest order, the kind that reminds us why Indian food is always a pretty good option. Particularly when washed down with a second – or third – mango lassi.

bawarchi

[MAP 4/H4]

Level B Intercontinental Chitlom, 973 Ploenchit Road 02 656 0383 | bawarchiindian.com | 11am-midnight

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specials

mooncake season Traditional Chinese mooncakes are eaten during the midautumn festival that occurs on the 15th day of the eighth lunar month – falling in September or early October in the Gregorian calendar. Today, mooncakes are still considered an indispensable delicacy and are offered by friends and colleagues and at family gatherings while celebrating the festival.

This year The Peninsula Bangkok’s executive Chinese Chef Jackie Ho and his team have made 250,000 mooncakes by hand in 43 days; using approximately 10 tonnes of ingredients including duck eggs, which give the very best quality and flavour along with the Peninsula’s own secret recipe for soft pastry crust. The Peninsula mooncakes are priced at B2500 for a case of four boxes of eight, B580 per box of eight, B480 per box of six and B140 for a special limited edition box.

At the Millennium Hilton Bangkok, you can buy a classic range featuring silky egg yolk combined with custard, durian, lotus seed paste, mixed fruit and nut, red bean or Chinese jujube. To spoil traditional lovers, there’s a premium box including four pieces at B588 per box and B788 per silk box.

Mooncakes are available until September 19.

At Conrad Bangkok, freshly baked mooncakes are available in five flavours: durian, custard, mixed five nuts, lotus seeds and black sesame, available individually at B99 each. The signature mooncake gift set is priced from B390 per box of four pieces of mooncakes and B720 per box of eight pieces.

Dusit Thani Bangkok also offers a variety of the marvellous mooncakes, prepared by the The Mayflower’s talented pastry chefs, favlours including green tea, durian with egg yolk, Chinese plum, lotus seeds, mixed nuts, and custard. They will be available until September 19 at B160 per cake.

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At the Xin Tian Di Chinese restaurant of Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park, Chef Lam Kok Weng and his team have whipped up five delicious flavours of mooncake: durian with single egg yolk, lotus, custard, mixed seed, and chilled cappuccino. The mooncakes can be ordered individually with prices starting at B150 or in elegant set boxes.

The Imperial Queen’s Park is proud to launch the exclusive pineapple mooncake as a celebration of the mid-autumn festival. The Imperial China’s chefs have used the highestquality pineapple, blended with secret-recipe syrups and ingredients, while also delivering the classic flavours. Cakes are B135 each.

The Shangri-La Hotel are offering their special Shang Palace mooncake, the restaurant’s master chef and his team have created a healthy set, including black sesame and low-sugar lotus seed varieties. There’s also a range of decadent fillings, from the best-selling durian, lotus seed and red bean to the traditional mixed fruits and nuts.

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TANTALISE YOUR TASTE BUDS THIS FESTIVE SEASON

Indian (North South East & West) | Thai | Indo Chinese | Sweets & Savouries Jain Food is also available

Bangkok Outlet: Sukhumvit Soi 20 (Near Windsor Hotel) Bangkok 10110 Tel: 02 401 8484

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PATTAYA Outlet: 557, Sun City Hotel, Pratumnak Rd., Pattaya Tai (South) Tel: 083 424 769

Email/Web: www.saras.co.th Facebook: www.facebook.com/SarasVegFood

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FOOD & DRIN K

in the kitchen

Billy Bautista talks to Howard Richardson

“This dish is the reason for the restaurant,” says Billy Bautista, chef and owner of El Osito, the Spanish bistro he runs with his wife Oh. “It’s where it all started.”

The dish is seafood paella, and Billy, who grew up in San Francisco with a Spanish father and Italian mother, is about to cook it for me.

“When I was a kid, we got to eat paella a couple of times a year,” Bautista says. “A Christmas thing, or at parties, when my Dad was often asked to cook it. I was always with him, and it was always fabulous.”

But, in Spain, the dish causes fierce competition: “Later, I lived in Valencia – the home of paella – and my cousins would say: ‘Your dad’s from Madrid, he doesn’t know how to make paella.’ So mine is a mix of the two.”

Bautista pours oil only into the centre of a big, low-sided paella pan and scatters salt around the edges to let it toast as the oil heats. He adds minced garlic and onions, mixes everything together, then follows with tomatoes.

“In Valencia, they cut the tomatoes with a cheese grater but in Madrid they chop them,” he says. “I use both.”

After a few minutes, Bautista moves the mix to the side of the pan and puts a cup of Arborio rice on to the drier surface to let it toast. Later, he mingles everything before adding a stock of shrimp shells, ground saffron and sea salt. He tosses in chopped vegetables and leaves it to simmer, arranging clams 72 | SEPTEMBER 2013

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around the edge, separated by strips of red pepper. Then, when most of the liquid has reduced, he covers the pan with foil and moves to the top of the griddle, where the dish steams.

“The rice should be soft and a little on the dry side,” he advises. “The only thing that can go wrong now is to overcook the seafood.”

As it nears completion, he adds shrimp and calamari, pre-brined in salted water and saffron, plus meaty tiger prawns still in their shells. He re-covers for a final few minutes, and takes off the heat to rest.

All paellas at El Osito are made from scratch (around B800 for four to six people), and take 30 minutes to an hour, depending on the kitchen load, so many diners wisely phone in their order ahead of arrival.

Then the dish is ready: all shades of attractive yellows, with highlights of red shrimp heads and pools of shining juice in the clam shells; the beads of rice separated and slightly moist, just as they should be. Amid welcoming smells of saffron, seafood and rice, a slightly scorched flavour interacts with the saffron for a pleasant bitter edge.

“We’d normally have it with just bread and wine,” Bautista says. And that’s just what we do.

el osito

[MAP 4/l5]

888/23-24 Mahatun Plaza, Ploenchit Rd | 02-651-4399 elositobkk.com | Mon-Sat 11.30am-11pm

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ealtike

Nym

Our roving eater Nym knows her local grub inside-out and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the city’s next delectable morsel

tong lee

T

ong Lee is a Hainanese Chinese restaurant that arrived in Bangkok almost 30 years ago, although the kitchen artistry and special character of the food served there goes back even longer. It’s a small place in an old shophouse with eye-catching, oldfashioned furniture and back-to-back panelled booths.

I order yam het (a sour-spicy salad made from mushrooms), tap thawt krathiem phrik Thai (liver fried with garlic and pepper), muu phat kapi (pork fried with fermented shrimp paste), and kai thawt Hailam (Hainanese-style fried chicken).

“On days when the liver we get isn’t really of the best quality, this dish doesn’t appear on the menu,” Tong Lee’s owner says.

Part of its success also has to do with the way the liver is cut, with the slices neither too thin nor too thick, allowing it to be fried so the outside of each slice is crisp and the inside tender but not under-cooked. The crunchy fried garlic also adds to the chewy pleasure, a must-try for anyone who isn’t averse to liver.

The pork fried with kapi is a special dish with the power to convert even those who normally avoid the whiffy fermented shrimp paste. Tong Lee’s version is famous among Bangkok foodies, in part because of the fine quality of the kapi they use. The best shrimp paste is not overly salty and made from real khuy, small shrimp.

The Hainanese fried chicken looks pretty much like any other version of the dish but after a few more bites the delicate technique involved reveals itself. It has to do with the skin. There is no thick layer of fat between the skin and the meat – while frying, the skin remains thin and crisp while the meat inside stays tender and juicy.

Frying the chicken for this effect is a delicate art, one that is matched by the mixing of the dipping sauce, or nam jim, that accompanies the dish.

Tong Lee is in Sukhumvit Soi 20 (about 100 metres down on the right, near 7-11). It’s open every day from 10am-8pm.

Brunch on the River

11.00 a.m. - 4.00 p.m.

Enjoy our new face of Sunday Brunch, start your pre-drink at ThreeSixty before heading down to visit Flow for live cooking stations including signature items from PRIME steakhouse, Yuan Cantonese restaurant and Maya Thai dining theatre. Pairing wine & cheese in our unique Cheese Room and end your Brunch with an array of desserts and chocolate at The Lantern, chocolate gallery.

THB 1,999 nett: Sunday Brunch on the River THB 2,999 nett: Sunday Brunch on the River and free flow wines *Complimentary access to our leisure facility, The Beach, to complete your Sunday experience!

Flow Opens Daily 6.00 a.m. - 11.00 p.m.

Millennium Hilton Bangkok, 123 Charoennakorn Road, Klongsan, Bangkok 10600 T: +66 (0) 2442 2000 E: bkkhi.informations@hilton.com, hilton.com, hilton.co.th HiltonBangkok

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listings

Jim Thompson

THAI Jim Thompson House and Museum [MAP 4/A3] 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Rd | 02-612-3601 jimthompson.com | Noon-5pm, 7pm-11pm Pity the hungry tourist who arrives at the Jim Thompson house hoping for authentic Thai food. Or so you would think – believe it or not, our number two tourist attraction is home to a restaurant that pairs a sumptuous, silk-and-fabric strewn setting with some surprisingly unusual Thai food. Add drinkable white or red house wine at B200 a glass, and a daily 4:30-7:30pm happy hour (buy one get one on house wine and draught beer) and there’s absolutely no reason to be sniffy about the place.

There are typical Thai dishes, yes, but there are also lots that aren’t. For a new taste sensation try the intensely spiced sang wah goong kub pla duke foo, also known as oldfashioned grilled prawn salad with traditional herbs, fresh vegetables and crispy catfish.

Not only is this dish served in an intricately carved pumpkin, but each and every condiment is prepared with an artistic flair that does late silk tycoon Jim Thompson’s artistic legacy proud.

A restaurant that works for groups of

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diners with diverse tastes, other notable dishes here include the pleasantly mild kaeng khao puak, or crispy wispy fried taro; as well as more adventurous options like the rarely seen tom som pla gra pong khao, sea bass fish soup laced with a savoury tinge of tamarind.

Be warned: it’s so moreish that you can expect to lick your soup bowl for every last drop.

PASTE [MAP 3/P6] 120/6 Sukhumvit Soi 49 | 02-392-4313 pastebangkok.com | Tues-Sun noon-2.30pm, 6pm-late One of the most talked about and innovative newer Thai restaurants is tucked to one side of soi 49 in the backstreets of Thong Lor. But if the entrance is easily overlooked, the modern Thai food inside is unlikely to be forgotten.

For entrees, the dry-spiced chilli squid, topped with vinegar and tomato relish (B240) is a winner. Among the mains, the prime cuts of Australian red meat stand out invitingly from the local produce – the braised beef ribs with ginger rice, tamarind leaves and mushroom soy (B380) are perfect if you don’t mind getting your hands dirty.

The roast duck salad with lychee and Vietnamese mint (B380) packs an immediate punch but it is the hint of banana blossom that delivers a surprising, sensational finish.

And then there is the tamarind and caramel pork belly with moonflower, red okra and green chilli pickle (400). It’s an inspired combination, the pork belly coming apart effortlessly while its outer layer retains a rainbow of flavours, its richness lightened perfectly by the moonflower and okra.

Paste Overall, Paste is a triumph, fusing tradition and innovation with a confidence and craft that never veers into showiness. Good food is often described as “tasty” or “delicious” but these descriptions are fleeting – the best meals go a step further and stay with us long after the plates are cleared.

On that score, Paste delivers with exceptional panache, serving food that is not just instantly gratifying but truly memorable.

Ruen Urai [MAP 5/H3] The Rose Hotel, 118 Surawong Rd 02-266-8268 | ruen-urai.com | 11am-11.30pm As the self-appointed safe-keepers of Thai culture would have it, real, authentic local cuisine is something set in stone. But the truth is that the Thai culinary universe didn’t just fall from the heavens fully-formed, but evolved slowly through hundreds of years of imports, adaptation and experimentation.

If we accept this as gospel (and only the foodie equivalent of a creationist wouldn’t), Ruen Urai might be one of the most genuinely traditional Thai restaurants in town.

On a recent re-visit, we were reminded that many of the dishes here are unorthodox, and in a subtle, restrained and ultimately satisfying way. Ranging from raw tuna rolls stuffed with fresh herbs and served with a

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listings Somtum Der

FOOD & DRIN K

Eve

Ruen Urai lip-tingling nam jim to the decadent devilled soft-shelled crab stuffed with crabmeat and pork, these ‘new creations’ walk the tightrope between progress and tradition, and, more often than not, make it across to the other side.

Other thoughtful deviations from tradition include the snow fish with pad krapao.

Pairing the delicate white fish with bold, assertive basil shouldn’t work but does, and very well.

Unusual blends of fragrant herbs, veg, pastes or spices also appear in dishes such as the pennywort salad, which, as far as we could tell, is similar to yum tua puu (wingbean salad) in everything apart from the key vegetable used.

To wash your repast down, there are herb-infused cocktails and a well-curated selection of wines available too.

NORTHERN THAI (ISAN) SOMTUM DER

[MAP 5/K6]

5/5 Saladaeng Road, Silom | 02-632-4499 Mon-Sat 11am-10pm With mae kaa (female vendors) rustling up plates of the stuff on every street corner, the restaurant serving somtum (spicy green

papaya salad) in upscale surroundings, and charging a price to match, has always struck us as a risky venture. Still, there are a few that succeed at doing just that. Will Silom’s Somtum Der be one of them? Having only been open a couple of months, it’s too early to tell, but certainly it has the potential.

Neither fine-dining nor kerbside, the setting is relaxed and inviting. As well as the mandatory air-conditioning, the converted shophouse on Sala Daeng Soi 1has an outdoor decking area and an upbeat almost art café feel, with lots of light wood and accents of red and orange. Bamboo fish net and rice basket lampshades cast a warm glow both downstairs and upstairs, where photos of pastoral Isan life line the walls.

As for the food – about 20 varieties of the restaurant’s namesake dish, plus 15 or so other Northeastern dishes – we think this could well become a word-of-mouth hit. Not only is it reasonably priced (the cheapest dish is B55, the most expensive B105), it’s also no mere copy of what’s served on the streets. One of Somtum Der’s nine partners, Korn from Sakhon Nakorn, is responsible for making sure all of the dishes “stick to their roots”, as they put it. The result is a slim yet plucky menu that’s full of surprises (for Bangkok at least).

FRENCH EVE [MAP 4/H6] Hansar Hotel, Mahadlekluang 2, Ratchadamri Road | 02-209-1234 hansarbangkok.com/eve | 6.30pm-11pm It seems that not a week goes by without another restaurant opening up in one of Bangkok’s gleaming hotels – for the uninitiated, it takes a little while to get used to the idea of dining regularly in a hotel. Still, places like Eve make it a whole lot easier, from the luxurious foyer to the high-ceiling dining rooms and open-air decking. It’s heavy on style and the food is no different.

The concept is contemporary European food served with Asian presentation – the proof is in the pudding – or, at Eve, in the amazing French foie gras (B650) served with dehydrated raspberry and Xeres jus. It adds a refreshingly tart tang to the foie gras, lightening it in a way that really works. The jumbo Hokkaido scallops (B650) come with green and white asparagus, dusted with olive oil powder.

The chargrilled stockyard Wagyu beef striploin (B1950) is exceptional, one of the best steaks in Bangkok, served with potato mousselin, morel cream, baby root vegetables and pinot noir jus. A steak on a

49 Sukhumvit soi 49 - Terrace 49 Building 2nd floor - reservation +6622041731

LA

OTTEGA

www.labottega.name

private wine room - open lunch and dinner Photography for La Bottega by Studio NUMA bangkok101.com

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listings

L’Appart

plate might seem fairly straightforward but Eve’s offering makes it tough to go back to more standard fare elsewhere.

The seafood mains are also spot on. The Pacific Ocean snowfish (B1100) comes with green pea puree, wild rocket and pomodoro sauces, heightening the seafood taste rather than working against it. The Tasmanian salmon (1050), with escalivada and red wine reduction is just as successful.

L’appart [MAP 3/g9] 32/F, Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit (between Soi 13 and Soi 15) 085-924-1565 | sofitel.com | 7pm-midnight L’Appart has one of the most gorgeous, interesting spaces in Bangkok, embracing the aesthetic of a Parisian apartment. The cliches of restaurant decor have been thrown overboard – a meal here feels like you’ve been invited for a fabulous dinner party at a successful friend’s immaculately furnished penthouse with amazing views of the skyline.

Chef Jeremy Tourret may be every inch the French master cook but that hasn’t prevented him taking some intriguing chances, adapting a traditional cuisine to create an adventurous, surprising menu.

The absolute staples are still represented – frog legs with leek and truffle (B480) and a

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spectacular bouillabaisse (onion soup) with rock fish, puff Japanese pearl and rouille sauce (B550; right).Tourret has dialled down the salt for the Asian palate, with the added benefit of making room for the more complex flavours he has included.

He takes it to the next step in the mains.

His pan-fried snow fish comes with cauliflower mousseline and Madras curry (B1300) – that’s right, curry. In a French restaurant. It seems risky and may outrage traditionalists but it is testament to Tourret’s technique and imagination that it works – the cauliflower balances the curry so the delicate taste of the snow fish – among the best – is never overwhelmed.

And while people might be unexcited by the prospect of roast chicken, it’s a different dish when it comes stuffed with goat cheese, comfit zucchini and organic tomatoes (B900), each mouthful an opportunity to unpick and savour the winning combination.

INTERNaTIONAL Park Society [MAP 5/M7] Sofitel So Bangkok, 2 North Sathorn Rd 02-624-0000 | sofitel.com | 5pm-1am (bar), 6pm-10pm (restaurant) A large walk-in kitchen as you enter has a generous chef’s table stacked with cured meats, where you can choose to dine. It leads to a curiously shaped dining space with those beautiful views through full wall windows.

The walls themselves and ceiling are rhomboid mirrored panels reflecting Victorian style lamps, hexagonal marble dining tables

Park Society and waiters in Christian Lacroix-designed, Thai-influenced uniforms, complete with cummerbunds, knee socks and traditional wide-thighed pantaloons. The whole has an almost art deco angularity, the effect pleasantly disorienting, like a fairground hall of mirrors.

The modern international menu changes daily according to available produce and starts with a mix of stalwart and exclusive items like oysters (six for B700), Hokkaido scallops (B900) and Aran Valley caviar (B4999 for 30g). Mains are well presented, the off-kilter square plates adorned with smears and blobs of colourful purée are an arty backdrop for dishes like pigeon with gnocchi and baby vegetables (B1400/ half, B2600/whole). The well chosen wine list, with most bottles between B2000 and B4000, has 12 wines and four sparkling by the glass. To finish, there’s a choice of three desserts or cheese plates.

Vertigo [MAP5/K8] Banyan Tree Bangkok, 21/100 South Sathon Rd | 02-679-1200 | banyantree.com 6pm-11pm The menu is tidily short, presenting Pacific Rim standards which appear just as refined as that ambassador’s wife’s gown the next

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listings Vertigo

CHEZ PAPE

Crepes & Co. table over. Undeniably not the place for a cheap night out, soups start from B400, salads B500, appetisers B650.

Meanwhile, seafood and meat mains range from B1000-2900, and there are eight set menus (B2200-B6000 no wine, B3300 – B8700 with wine). They also do a good line in “sustainably sourced” Australian and Japanese steaks.

We started things off with some new signatures, including the swordfish Carpaccio garnished with chili, rocket and ginger. Served, like all the signatures, on an elongated plate, it’s a subtle, mild dish, the ginger cutting through. Even better are the tataki of wagyu, which are melt-in-yourmouth oblongs of beef cooked rare in shoyu, or Japanese soy sauce. Neither, though, could match the spicy kick and decadence of the tuna tartar, a slab topped off with guacamole and lemon caviar.

Not long after, our mains arrived decked with raw greens on oversized, deep plates.

There was a pan-roasted free range chicken, the lean meat marrying well with the tarragon jus and a spot-on mash; and a lamb shank served with cumin-spiced potatoes, young roots and a little pot of sweet massaman curry sauce.

Desserts are Thai twists like the Thai tea crème brûlée, or the even richer mango and sticky rice with mascarpone served in a cocktail glass. That or sumptuous takes on European favourites such as the mille feuille of tropical berries with vanilla cream, or fresh fig tart with Thai honey, goat cheese cream and almonds.

CREPES & Co. [Map 8/L14] 59/4 Langsuan Soi 1, Ploenchit Rd, (also 88 Thonglor Soi 8 and CentralWorld) 02-652-0208 | crepesnco.com | 9am-11pm The business itself is a uniquely Bangkokian success story. It was founded nearly 20 years ago as a family business which quickly expanded and became more ambitious.

The crepe may be French in origin, but the flavours and ingredients here take in the entire sweep of the Mediterranean, borrowing heavily from Morocco, Spain and Greece, in particular. The menu bulges with bangkok101.com

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savoury options – try the eggplant caviar – but it’s the desserts that attract a loyal after-dinner following.

You can’t go wrong with the Crepe Josephine (B170), which combines fresh banana, chestnut cream, a large scoop of vanilla ice cream and chocolate sauce.

If you’ve got an insatiable sweet tooth, you’ll likely move on to the serious stuff, like the Crepe Framboise (B290), served bulging with vanilla ice cream and lathered in rich, tangy raspberry sauce.

These creations are big enough to share – or you can have one all to yourself if you have a real craving. Going down the list reveals some eye-popping desserts – try the Crepe Mango Coconut (B195), which somehow works despite the unusual pairing of fresh mango and coconut ice cream.

The real show-stopper, though, is the Flambe Calvados (B290), which comes out rinsed in apple liqueur and filled with sauteed apple and rum raisin ice cream. And then they set that baby on fire.

You would have to be in France to nd a MORE AUTHENTIC FRENCH BISTRO

The Very Best of Traditional French Country Style Food At Attractive Prices

Quince [MAP 3/P10] Sukhumvit Soi 45 | 02-662-4478 quincebangkok.com | 11.30am-late New Quince chef Wilfrid Hocquet has worked with Alain Ducasse, Daniel Boulud and the Pourcel brothers, while his last gig – the countrified, Michelin-starred La Bastide de Moustiers – chimes with the concept at his new Bangkok home. He serves straightahead food: farmhouse presentation, not too many flavours, focusing on good product and letting it fly. To the delight of traditionalists, this is unmistakably dinner on a plate.

They have a new supplier near Pattaya for these meats and now work with Bill Marinelli, of the Oyster Bar to bring line-caught fish from Indonesia. Not local, but sustainable.

It’s also, by its nature, unpredictable, so you may get coral trout, sea bream, white sea bass, all depending on the catch. It arrives on Thursdays, so good days to visit are Friday to Sunday.

The fish goes on the specials menu, alongside the new a la carte that Wilfrid launches fully this month. Look out for a

Quality Wine from around the World and Yummy Homemade Desserts!

Sukhumvit Soi 11 - Conveniently located only 100 meters from Nana BTS Station

02 255 2492 (after 4pm) or 089 89 75 282

info@chezpape.com

www.chezpape.com

OPEN daily 5pm - 11pm Saturday & Sunday 11.30am - 2.30pm

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listings Gaggan

Above Eleven

Quince bunch of fresh salads such as blueberry beetroot with feta cheese and rocket and substantial mains like roast chicken taginestyle with lemon and chickpeas.

Beautiful Kurobuta pork, cooked sous vide and served with its own jus (B1500 for a sharing portion), is sourced in Prachinburi and also used in deliciously moist, slightly peppery pork terrine (B280).

INDIAN gaggan [MAP 8/l14] 68/1 Soi Langsuan | 02-652-1700 eatatgaggan.com | 11.30am-3pm, 6pm-11.30pm Indian cuisine, perhaps more than any other, has been pigeonholed, locked into a narrow idea of heavy curries and spicy tandooris.

It’s an inadequate concept, of course, and Gaggan Anand, through his stunningly unique restaurant in Langsuan, makes one of the most urgent cases for these definitions to be reconsidered.

Perhaps the most interesting way to experience Gaggan’s always delicious, often offbeat repertoire is through one of the tasting menus (B1600, B2600 or B4000).

One of the more surprising combinations comes out relatively early – it’s called Viagra,

freshly shucked French oysters served with kokam nectar and Indian mustard ice cream, and somehow works despite ingredients that don’t intuitively go together.

The Egyptian Secret uses foie gras, red onion chutney and raspberry powder to equally stunning effect, the flavours so well-judged that your taste buds are pulled in different directions in one mouthful. There’s the truffle mousse with a pepper infusion and king prawns with fennel Kachumber and charcoal oil.

In a nod to those who might have reservations about this kind of experimental food, there’s the Fusion Called Confusion, which combines Atlantic lobster with a coastal curry. On paper, that sounds like the lobster taste doesn’t stand a chance but, sure enough, in the mouth, they’re both there, distinctly present on different parts of the tongue.

JAPANESE Above eleven [MAP 3/C4] 33rd Fl Frasers Suite Sukhumvit Hotel, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-207-9300 aboveeleven.com | 6pm-2am Chef Omar Frank Maruy brings Bangkok’s

first taste of Nikkei cuisine, a PeruvianJapanese fusion developed over 140 years of Japanese immigration. The outdoor wooden deck bar with glass walls for maximum view has a central bar, dining tables, lounge areas and huge daybeds for parties to slumber on.

You might want to start with a pre-dinner Peruvian cocktail – maybe a pisco sour, made with Peruvian grappa, lime, egg white and angostura (B350) – before checking out the menu, which also has some Japanese dishes. Starters include Cebiche Above Eleven (B550), in which the crunch of deep fried calamari contrasts well with raw seabass marinated in “Tiger’s Milk”, a blend including shallots, lemon and chilli with flavours similar to Thai, although much more restrained.

Five skewers of cubed charcoal grilled beef heart (B240) are served with three Peruvian dips of increasing fieriness, and Kani Causa (B300) is three mounds of yellow coloured mashed potato topped with crab meat, avocado, quail egg and mayo.

Plates are served centrally to share and portions are generous, particularly on main courses such as Seco de Cordero (B950), a slow-cooked lamb shank seasoned with beer, cilantro, cumin and aji Amarillo.

Colin says -

“You’re SPECIAL Mate!”

Scan Colin’s QR code or visit our website at

www.snapper-bangkok.com to print off our unbelievable in-store specials and you’ll be loving Snapper even more!

THAILAND TATLER

NEW ZEALAND

BEST RESTAUR ANTS

1/20-22 Sukhumvit Soi 11, Ph. 02 651-1098 78 | SEPTEMBER 2013

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listings

Elements

Elements [MAP 4/L5] Fl25 The Okura Prestige Bangkok, Park Ventures Ecoplex, 57 Wireless Rd 02-687-9000 | 6pm-10.30pm Elements is an imposing space, where heavy ship’s lanterns loom overhead from a high ceiling lined with the inevitable exposed piping. It’s perhaps a bit large to fit the ‘living room’ atmosphere described in the marketing bumph, despite the sofa style and armchair seating.

The décor is predominantly black and brown, low lit, with full wall sculptures of black charcoal at each end of the room that – as well as providing an arty backdrop – apparently filter out cooking smells from the open kitchen.

The menu is divided into a la carte, with main meat courses largely in the B900-B1500 range, and four tasting menus, including a vegetarian option (B1200).

We opted for the five-course Moments set (B2400), starting with excellent quality gravlax and lightly smoked tuna with wasabi vinaigrette and soy jelly. Other dishes included a mushroom infusion poured over sautée mushrooms, hazelnuts and thyme flavoured croutons; and slow cooked wagyu done two ways, as 24-hour sous vide short rib, with truffle mash, celeriac and apple, and beef cheek hachée.

YTSB [MAP 8/J12] VIE Hotel, 117/39-40 Phaya Thai Rd 02-309-3939 | viehotelbangkok.com 6pm-11pm The odd-looking name is an abbreviation for Yellow Tail Sushi Bar, which provides a pretty decent indication of what this place has to offer. The fish has different names according to size and stage but is known as yellowtail once it reaches maturity and is ready to eat.

Upon a first glance, the restaurant is decked out with chic Japanese-themed décor rather than authentic Japanese style.

The soft yellow lighting creates a low-key ambience likely to draw you in. It’s also on the fourth floor of VIE Hotel – so before you settle in, head downstairs to the outdoor terrace on the third floor, where you can still order food and drinks from the bar. bangkok101.com

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Zuma The name of the venue might suggest that the menu is all about yellowtail, but there’s real variety. If you’re in a group, it’s hard to ignore the set of appetisers (B1180) composed of dried stingray fin, dried shrimps, fried salmon and salted ginkgo. It arrives on a long bamboo platter, emphasising YTSB’s fusion influences, as opposed to embracing the more strictly traditional route.

If you want to branch out beyond the raw fish, there are alternatives with wagyu and chicken. Maybe try the kagoshima wagyu namban yaki (B2500), cooked with Japanese seasoning and topped with sesame, mushroom and asparagus. Each bite is tender, the Japanese seasoning exquisite.

Zuma [MAP 4/G6] Ground Fl, 159 Rajadamri Road 02-252-4707 | zumarestaurant.com 12pm-3pm, 6pm-11pm The style and presentation of the dishes is unmistakably contemporary – authentic but not traditional – exemplified by a particularly snazzy range of cocktails, including the Rubabu (B295), which blends sake and vodka with fresh passionfruit, and a spectacular lychee rose martini.

But, of course, it’s the food that really matters and, in a format that might take a little getting used to for those accustomed to a starter, then a main, then a dessert, Zuma is a bit more free and easy than that. Dishes can be shared or eaten individually.

There are several highlights, including the sliced yellowtail served with green chilli relish, ponzu and pickled garlic (B410) – the effect is stunning, a mouthful of the most delicately textured seafood packed with light but still intense flavour.

No less impressive are the plates of nigiri sushi and selected sashimi (B1100) – Japanese food has become so ubiquitous that it’s easy to forget how it’s meant to taste when it’s done with absolute precision and attention to detail.

Some diners may be nervous about eating raw beef (B490) but at Zuma, served with citrus dressing, it goes down so well that any apprehension soon evaporates.

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Nightlife Kandi plays rca

DJ Daniel Kandi brings his beats to Bangkok for an unforgettable night of eclectic vibes and punchy synthesisers. Fresh off his new single Trancefamily, Armin van Buuren’s favourite DJ will be playing LED at RCA (086-860-0808; facebook.com/LEDclub) on September 6. So put your drinks down and wave your hands in the air to hits such as Saggitarius and Soul Searchin’. Tickets are B550.

apoteka branching out

After carving out a niche for itself as one of Bangkok’s finest live music venues, Apoteka (33/28 Sukhumvit Soi 11; 090-626-7655; facebook.com/ ApotekaBangkok) is expanding its menu to embrace Cajun and Creole elements. They’re also launching an new after-work drinks promotions, called Prescription, offering house beers, spirits and wines for B99 until 8.30pm on weeknights.

marshmallow makeover

Meanwhile, Marshmallow (33/18 Sukhumvit Soi 11; 02-254-1971; marshmallowbangkok.com) has undergone a refurbishment and will soon relaunch as a boutique bar and nightclub, shifting its focus from operating as a restaurant. It makes sense – Bed Supperclub has closed down across the road and the Holiday Inn opposite, still under construction, should deliver a steady stream of customers.

ALL you need is love

The Fab Four are back together on September 29 when the Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit (1F Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit 250, Sukhumvit; 02649-8358; barsubangkok.com) hosts The Beatles 50th Anniversary Charity Concert at BarSu as part of its Unicef fundraising initiative. The concert will feature music from The Betters, a renowned tribute band, with an uncanny knack of reproducing the sound and on-stage appearance of their famous predecessors.

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NIGHTLI FE

review

OCTAVE

- Amid the lights of Thong Lor -

W

hile there is no shortage of rooftop bars along the river and in Silom and Sathorn, the eastern end of Sukhumvit has long been lacking in watering holes with sweeping, panoramic views. It’s no surprise, then, that Octave, occupying the top four floors of the Bangkok Marriott Hotel Sukhumvit on the corner of soi 57, has quickly developed a loyal following.

There’s still some tinkering going on in the middle floors but the bottom level – if you can call it that, given it’s about 40 storeys above Sukhumvit – draws in a healthy afterwork crowd. Rows of plush seating along the edge of the open-air balcony offer a perfect spot to plot Bangkok’s geography from above while knocking back some of Octave’s punchy, refreshing cocktails.

The Thai Mojito (B320) starts things off in a way that’s familiar enough but well-executed, combining the standards of white rum, basil and lime with spicy mango, adding a zingy twist to the established mojito formula.

More innovative still is the Bloom Over The Roof (B320), which fuses Red Berry Tea-flavoured vodka with fresh mint leaves and elderflower syrup. It might seem a little flowery for those who like their drinks more straight ahead, but the overall effect is a seriously drinkable concoction that cuts right through the heat and humidity.

The winner, though, is probably the Golden Tai (B390) which pairs two kinds of rum – one light, one dark – finished with Grand Marnier and almond syrup.

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It’s definitely strong enough to take the edge off but the almond aftertaste balances it nicely.

Certainly, Octave isn’t alone in offering drinkers a plush, rooftop bar experience but it manages to be warm and welcoming, creating a relaxed but still refined atmosphere, a combination that many places try for but don’t pull off.

It’s the secret of Octave’s early success.

octave

[MAP 3/s10]

45/F, Bangkok Marriott Hotel Sukhumvit, 2 Sukhumvit Soi 57 02-797-0000 | facebook.com/OctaveMarriott | 6pm-1am

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listings more posh than funky. Some of Bangkok’s gilded youth chill on sofas and knock pool balls around in the front room; but most hit the fridge-cool dancehall to boogie away the week’s woes to live bands and hip-hop DJs. Forget about edgy sounds – here it’s all about getting down with the CEOs of tomorrow.

MIXX DISCOTHEQUE [MAP 4/H4] Bash

Nightclubs BASH [ma p 3/F8] 37 Sukhumvit Soi 11 (entrance next to the Australian Pub | bashbangkok.com Midnight-very late Open till “very late”, Bash is brash.

American owner Daryl Scott, a well-known club scene figure, has spliced strands of global clubbing DNA with the usually sleazy after-hours club concept. There are burlesque dancers ranging from midgets and robots on stilts to cross-dressing whacker Pan Pan (the shows bring to mind risqué superclub Manumission at times); the fixtures and furniture are of the very glam sort (gleaming Louis IX furniture, etc); and the DJs are often big names. Head up the stairs lined with misshapen mirrors and you’ll find three floors of fun, two of them taken up by the main room and the mezzanine which overlooks it.

DEMO [map 3/R1] Thong Lor Soi 10 (next to Funky Villa) 02-711-6970 | 8pm-1am Easily the grittiest discoteca in the swish Thong Lor area is Demo: a squat former tenement building turned graffiti daubed brick warehouse. Featuring a terrace and bar outside, and lots of dark corners inside, not only does it look like a venue you’d find in East London or some other hipsterville; it sounds like one, too: instead of the usual mainstream hip-hop and live-bands, Demo’s DJs blast zeitgeisty nu-disco, house and electro through a kicking sound-system.

Funky Villa [MAP 3/R1] Thong Lor Soi 10 | 08-5253-2000 | 6pm-2am The name Funky Villa conjures images of roller-blading babes in bikinis, all partying at a Hugh Hefner-owned villa in the Med. The reality’s different. Steer your way through the fairground-sized car park, past the BMWs and chic lounge-deck area, and you’ll hit a swish one-storey house, 84 | SEPTEMBER 2013

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President Tower Arcade 973 Ploenchit Rd mixxdiscotheque.com | B350 | 10pm-late Located in basement annex of the Intercontinental Hotel, Mixx is classier than most of Bangkok’s after-hour clubs, but only slightly. It’s a two-room affair decked out with chandeliers and paintings and billowing sheets on the ceiling lending a desert tent feel. The main room plays commercial R&B and hip hop, the other banging techno and house. Expect a flirty, up-for-it crowd made up of colourful characters from across the late-night party spectrum. The entry price: B350 for guys, B300 for girls. That includes a drink and, as long as things go smoothly, the chance to party until nearly sunrise.

ROUTE 66 [Map 8/Q12] 29/33-48 Royal City Avenue | route66club.com B200 foreigners incl. drink / free for Thais Rammed with hordes of dressed-to-kill young Thais on most nights of the week, ‘Route’, as it is affectionately known, is RCA’s longest surviving superclub. There are three zones to explore (four if you count the toilets – probably the ritziest in town), each with its own bar, unique look and music policy. ‘The Level’ is the huge, alllasers-blazing hip-hop room; ‘The Classic’ spins house and techno; and Thai bands bang out hits in ‘The Novel’. Route is not a good place to lose your friends but can be a blast if you all get crazy around a table, be it inside or out on the big outdoors area.

One sore point: unlike the locals, foreigners are charged a B200 entry fee (but get a free drink).

THE CLUB [Map 7/F 5] 123 Khaosan Rd, Taladyod | 02-629-1010 theclubkhaosan.com | 6pm-2am B 100 (incl. one drink) The walk-in crowd of young Thais and backpackers must surely be amazed to find they’ve entered a techno castle on Khao San Road. The sky-high windows and raised central DJ turret lend a fairytale vibe, while the lasers, visuals and UV lighting hark back to mid 1990s psy-trance raves. Music-wise, it’s a loud, banging

Q Bar house serving up the full range of 4/4 beats, usually cranium-rattling electro house and techno. The drink prices are kind to your wallet and UV glowsticks handed out for free.

Q BAR [Map 3/C4] 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-252-3274 qbarbangkok.com | 8pm-1am Long-standing, New York-style night spot Q Bar is well-known for pouring stiff drinks (there are over 70 varieties of top-shelf vodka!) and its strong music policy, with big name international DJs appearing regularly.

Q Bar raised the ‘bar’ for Bangkok nightlife twelve years ago and is still going strong, with a flirty crowd every night and a recent top-to-bottom renovation giving the venue a maximalist style injection. Now, there’s more room to dance and more lounge space, especially at QUP, the more downtempo upstairs area. Also, out the back of the venue, through a revolving door, you can find your way into La Derriere, Q Bar’s very own Parisian-style absinthe bar that is perfect for chilling out and chasing the green fairy.

hotel bars & clubs BARSU [map 3/F6] 1st F, Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit 250, Sukhumvit Rd | 02-649-8358 barsubangkok.com | 6pm-2am The informal yet sleek BarSu features the tagline ‘eat, play, dance,’ and appeals to the over-30 Bangkok crowd who feel disenfranchised by the city’s current nightlife offerings. To this end, there are five live bands for each night of the week.

Comprised of students from Silpakorn University’s Faculty of Jazz, Tenon Round’ are a gifted young quartet who perform every Tuesday from 8.30 to 10.30pm.

The other bands, JazzPlayground, P.O.8, Rhythm Nation and Hot Gossip, play from Wednesday to Saturday respectively. In bangkok101.com

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CM2 between sets, tuck into their ‘Goong goong goong’ menu, combining fresh prawns with a variety of international flavours.

CM2 [map 4/D5] B1 F, Novotel Siam Square, 392/44 Siam Square Soi 6 | 02-209-8888 | cm2bkk. com | 10pm-2am The Novotel Siam Square Hotel’s subterranean party cave still packs them in sixteen years after it first opened, especially on weekends when it heaves with tourists and nocturnal beauties. The big and quite 1980s disco looking (black and metal and neon lighting rule) complex has lots of lounging space facing the dance floor, plus a sports bar with pool tables, smoking room, and an Absolut Vodka Lounge. It’s mainstream all the way.

DJs play what the crowd wants, when they want it, usually the latest electro, funky house or hip-grinding R&B tune, while the live bands from Canada, Europe and Asia perform as if every song is a potentially lifechanging audition. Currently that includes the impressive Crush Crew, who perform their renditions of modern hip-hop, R&B and other charting hits.

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Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok, 494 Rajadamri Road | 02-254-1234 | bangkok. grand.hyatt.com 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm2.30am There’s no shortage of hotel bars in Bangkok but Spasso, on the ground floor of the Grand Hyatt Erawan has been around for 21 years and remains a favourite among visitors and expats looking to let their hair down. By day, it presents as a sedate Italian restaurant but after hours, after it transforms into a club and cocktail bar, it really hits its stride, revelling in its energetic, uninhibited atmosphere. The layout is unconventional – an open-plan foyer and dining area narrows into a dancefloor, flanked by two horseshoe-shaped bars.

It has the effect of funnelling all the action between the bars and on to the dancefloor.

Spasso is not so much for Bangkok scenesters – its selling point is that it’s slightly wild and the live band does its best to whip partygoers into even higher spirits.

ST REGIS BAR [map 4/G 7] St Regis Bangkok Hotel, 159 Rajadamri Rd 02-207-7777 | stregis.com | Mon-Fri 10am1am, Sat-Sun 10am-2am At 6:30pm each day a butler struts out on to the terrace of The St Regis Bar, a saber in one hand, a bottle of Moet & Chandon in the other. He then flicks at the collar until ‘pop!’, the cork flies off and bubbly spurts gently out on to the terrace. Come for this, stay for the view. Stretching along a plate glass window, the rectangle venue – with its suave masculine vibe, long bar, clubby sofas and high-ceilings – eyeballs the city’s Royal Bangkok Sports Club. It’s a

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lovely spot at sunset, even better on every second Sunday afternoon, when you can spy on the horseracing with a fine malt whiskey in hand.

Bars with views Above Eleven [MAP 3/C4] 33rd Fl Fraser Suites Sukhumvit Hotel, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-207-9300 aboveeleven.com | 6pm-2am A west-facing 33rd floor rooftop bar with beautiful sunsets, Above Eleven is a winning combination. The outdoor wooden deck bar with glass walls for maximum view has a central bar, dining tables, lounge areas and huge daybeds for parties to slumber on. Tip: choose a seat on the north side – it gets windy to the south. There’s a great view, an impressive cocktail list and an electro soundtrack.

AMOROSA [Map 7/C12] 4th F, Arun Residence Hotel, 36-38 Soi Pratoo Nok Young, Maharat Rd 02-221-9158 | arunresidence.com | 6pm-1am

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listings here, almost 200 metres high up. It’s the perfect spot for honeymooners – take a seat on the smart sofa stations, sip on a classy Martini or a yummy signature cocktail and feel romance welling up. For voyeurs, the telescope and binoculars come in handy.

Glamour girls and unwinding business guys feel right at home here, too.

NEST [Map 3/C4] Long Table Amorosa is a sultry, Moroccan-style balcony bar offering balmy river breezes, sour-sweet cocktails and a so-so wine list. The showstopper, though, is the view: perched on the roof of a four-storey boutique hotel, guests gaze out from its balcony terrace on to the Chao Phraya River and Wat Arun, the stunning Temple of Dawn, on the banks beyond. Go before sundown and enjoy watching the sun sink slowly behind it. Or come later, when amber floodlights make it glow against the night sky.

LONG TABLE [Map 3/H8] 25th F, 48 Column Bldg, Sukhumvit Soi 16 02-302-2557 | longtablebangkok.com 11am-2am Top-end Thai food isn’t the only thing that draws Bangkok’s nouveau riche to this impossibly swish restaurant-cum-bar.

There’s also the trend-setting twist: a sleek communal dining table so long it makes the medieval banquet bench look positively petite. However, it’s what happens at the end of the room that propels this place deep into the nightlife stratosphere. Where the long table ends, a tall plate glass window and huge poolside patio, complete with bar, begins. Out here, 25 floors up, you can glug signature ‘long-tail’ cocktails or new latitude wines with the best of high-flying Bangkok: a glitzy hotchpotch of celebrities, models and power players; hair-tousling breezes; and – best of all – wide-screen city vistas.

MOON BAR [Map 5/K8] 61st F, Banyan Tree Bangkok, 21/100 South Sathorn Rd | 02-679-1200 | banyantree.com 5pm-1am This is one place that will get you closer to the moon. The open-air bar lets you take in the urban Moloch from up-above in smart surroundings. With stunning 360° views, the hotel’s rooftop has been turned into a slick grill restaurant; one end is occupied by the bar. Nothing obstructs your view 86 | SEPTEMBER 2013

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9th F, Le Fenix, 33/33 Sukhumvit Soi 11 02-305-4000 | lefenixsukhumvit.com 5pm-2am An all-white and urbane open-air oasis on the ninth floor of the sleek Le Fenix Hotel, Nest is a loungey and laid-back spot on weekdays and early evenings, with couples enjoying signature martinis and upmarket nibbles from the comfort of Thai-style swing beds and Nest-shaped rattan chairs.

But on weekends, a more up-for-it crowd ascends, especially during special party nights. These include Mode, a shindig every second Saturday of the month that pumps hip-hop and house beats rather than the usual smooth Balearic sounds. What are the views alike? With buildings looming above you, not below you, here you feel part of the cityscape.

PHRANAKORN BAR [map 7/G6] Soi Damnoen Klang Tai, Ratchadamnoen Rd 02-622-0282 | 6pm-1am Only a five-minute walk from Khao San Road, multi-level Phranakorn Bar is an old favourite of local art students and creatives, mostly for its indie/80s/90s worshipping playlist and mellow trestle-and-vine rooftop offering splendid views, over old-city rooftops, towards the floodlit Golden Mount temple. The booze and Thai food is cheap, as is most of the modern art hanging on the second floor. Tried to find it before but failed? You wouldn’t be the first. From the Burger King end of Khao San Road, turn right onto Ratchadamnoen, right again and it’s down the first soi on your left hand-side.

RED SKY [Map 4/F 3] 56th F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld Rama 1 Rd | 02-100-1234 centarahotelresorts.com | 5pm-1am Encircling the 56th floor turret of CentralWorld’s adjoining Centara Grand Hotel, the al fresco Red Sky offers panoramas in every direction. Just before sunset is the time to come – plonk yourself down on a rattan chair or oversized daybed and wait for the lightshow to begin. When daylight fades and the city lights up like a circuit-board, a live jazz band kicks in and

Red Sky Bangkok takes on a glam cosmopolitan aura. Upscale bar snacks like slowcooked baby back pork ribs and martinis, cocktails and wines are on hand to keep you company while your eyes explore the scenery. It’s not cheap, but the daily happy hours (buy one get one drink on selected wine, beer and cocktails from 5pm-7pm).

SKY BAR / DISTIL [map 5/C5] 63rd F, State Tower, 1055 Silom Rd 02-624-9555 | thedomebkk.com | 6pm-1am Among the world’s highest outdoor bars, Sky bar – attached to Med restaurant Sirocco – offers panoramic views of the city and river below, earning its popularity with visitors new to the City of Angels and those intent on rediscovering it. Indoor-outdoor Distil boasts a roomful of comfy sofas, beyond premium liquor and The Dome’s signature breathtaking view. Adjacent to Asian seafood eatery Breeze, Ocean 52 sports yet another stunning view from the 51st – 52nd floors. These places are definitely not spots for the casual beach bum, so be sure to leave your flip-flops and shopping bags at home – a strict smart casual dress code is enforced.

The Speakeasy [MAP 4/J6] Hotel Muse, 55/555 Lang Suan Rd 02-630-4000 | hotelmusebangkok.com 6pm-1am One of the newest al fresco rooftop bars, The Speakeasy has several sections, all radiating from the Long Bar, which you enter from the elevator. As the name suggests, the complex evokes the glamour of Prohibition Era USA, with fusion Deco details, mirrored wall panels and carved wood screens. Everything’s distressed, the parquet floors unvarnished – it’s a well-oiled joint with a warm, lived-in feel.

On the wooden deck Terrace Bar people fill the lounge areas and tall tables that hug the classical balustrades overlooking Lang Suan. A long international snack menu stands out for decent portions at bangkok101.com

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woo bar [map 5/g7]

Three Sixty reasonable prices; spirits (from B270) include luxury cognacs and malts; wines are B300-B600 a glass, while cocktails (from B 290) include home-made vodka infusions.

threeSixty [map 5/b2] Millennium Hilton, 123 Charoennakorn Rd 02-442-2000 | hilton.com | 5pm-1am High above the glittering lights of Bangkok’s Chao Phraya River, ThreeSixty is the only Bangkok venue to enjoy unhindered views over the entire, dazzling metropolis. It also hosts live jazz musicians every day, all year round. A private glass lift takes guests all the way up to the 32nd floor which boasts panoramic vistas from its 130m tall, circular lounge. Guests can feast on a range of miniature culinary experiences, from foie gras to caviar or risotto, or sip on fine wines and cocktails as the sun sets in a blaze of colour behind Wat Arun. Just as gently, the soft lounge lights come on to create an atmosphere of casual intimacy. As the first stars appear, the city’s coolest jazz sounds will set the mood which true aficionados will not be able to resist.

W Bangkok, 106 North Sathorn Road 02-344-4131 | whotels.com/Bangkok Sun-Wed 9am-1am, Thurs-Sat 9am-2am Located on the ground floor of the W Hotel, Woo Bar has all of the flair and emphasis on design that has come to characterise the hotel franchise. It’s chic and low-lit without being cold or inaccessible, spacious enough to find a seat without being echoey and without atmosphere. And, most importantly, the cocktails pass with flying colours, some inventive signature drinks rubbing shoulders with well-executed standard tipples. The Bliss (B325), which comes from the bartenders at W Hotel in New York, combines Ciroc vodka, elderflower liqueur, lime, mint and fresh ginger. You might struggle to stop at just one.

BARS THE ALCHEMIST [map 3/e8] 1/19 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 083-549-2055 Facebook: thealchemistbkk | Tue-Sun 5pmmidnight Fitting somewhere between Soi 11’s swank cocktail bars and the rickety dive bar aesthetic of the legendary Cheap Charlie’s, which it neighbours, The Alchemist is a stylishly stripped down drinking hole.

Nothing more, nothing less. We approve, and so too, it seems, do the punters. Not only does it attract the spill-over from Cheap Charlie’s, it also draws a loyal crowd of its own, who savour the intimate atmosphere, occasional live music, proper his and her toilets (Cheap Charlie’s are

Apoteka xxx xXxx infamous for their dinginess) and, above all, drinks prices. Currently rocking the drinks list are assorted martinis (dry, passionfruit and espresso), classic cocktails, random shooters, and some of the best mojitos you’ll find on this end of Sukhumvit.

Apoteka [map 3/e8] 33/28 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 090-626-7655 apotekabkk.com | Mon-Thurs 5pm-1am, Fri 5pm-2am, Sat-Sun 3pm-midnight As you may have guessed, the name is based on an outdated word for pharmacist and the place is meant to emulate a 19th century apothecary. Unsurprisingly, it has an old-school feel. There are high ceilings, red brick walls and Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde being projected onto the wall. Indoor seating is a mix of tall tables with studded chairs, and long tables for larger groups along the main wall. Large cases filled with vintage-coloured bottles of medicine flank the bar. The outdoor seating is mellow – a wooden patio with some cozy furniture that could be a nice place to curl up on a date or meet some friends for a smoke and a beer. Drink selection includes a nice

refinement complexity intrigue www.pastebangkok.com

info@pastebangkok.com

PHONE +66 2 392 4313

120/6 Sukhumvit Soi 49 (Across from Samitivej Sukhumvit Hospital) Su

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Bad Motel

fans, huge bean bags and funky barleystalk sculptures and good for postwork/ pre-club cocktails.

BREW [map 3/Q6]

selection of beer (the Framboise Ale at B250 is delightful), Heineken for just B135, and custom cocktails cost you B230. Keep your eyes peeled for the whisky and cigar lounge: a room hidden off to the side of the staircase. With muted green brocade on the walls, low leather couches, and Johnnie Walker in glass cases, this space is available for private parties or just chill sessions.

Badmotel [MAP 3/R6] 331/4-5 Soi Thong Lor | 02-712-7288 5pm-1am | facebook.com/badmotel The name Badmotel may conjure up something kitsch and grimy but, in fact, this three floor bar and restaurant is extremely sparsely decorated and painted a bright white, giving it the feel of a pre-decorated house. The top two floors can feel a little lacking in atmosphere, especially if it’s a quiet night, but the ground floor’s buzzing bar and tree-lined garden make a very pleasant spot to sip on the venue’s ‘Creation Cocktails’, all B220. The imaginative drinks menu includes locally inspired must-tries like the Hahaha Martini (made from Ketel vodka, homemade chilli liqueur, galangal, cumin powder and pickled grapes), Teenager’s Iced Tea (made using traditional Thai tea with four sprits and liqueur) and the Never Say Never (a rumbased cocktail served with Thai dessert condiments).

BARLEY BISTRO [map 5/h5] 4/F Food Channel, Silom Rd | 087-033-3919 5pm-late | barleybistro.com Hidden up some stairs at the Food Channel, an enclave of franchise-like restaurants, Barley Bistro is slick and snazzy. The design is chic (blacks and greys, white-on-black stencil art); the drinks funky (lychee mojitos, testtube cocktails etc); the food new-fangled (spaghetti kimchi etc); and the clientele wholesome (Thai office workers mostly). Do check out the open-air rooftop. It’s littered with cooling 88 | SEPTEMBER 2013

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Seen Space, Thong Lor 13 | 02-185-2366 brewbkk.com | Mon-Sun 4pm-2am It wasn’t so long ago that the beer selection here was comprised entirely of the ubiquitous local lagers and the Heinekens and Carlsbergs of this world. The fact that it doesn’t anymore is largely thanks to Chris Foo, the owner of this beer bar tucked away on the ground floor of Thonglor Soi 13’s happening mini-mall Seenspace.

Depending on what time of year it is, Brew stocks between 140 and 170 bottles of ales, lagers, ciders, you name it. Currently, the setting in which you sip them is hip in Thonglor circles. That’s not so much down to Brew’s tiny interior, with its exposed piping and bar flanked by kegs of beer and brick walls, as the buzzing outdoor area it shares with futuristic cocktail bar Clouds and the nautically themed Fat’r Gutz.

CAFÉ TRIO [map4 / H6] 36/11-12 Soi Lang Suan | 02-252- 6572 6pm-1am, closed on the 2nd and 4th Sun of the month Cafe Trio is just about the only bar worth seeking out on Lang Suan Road. Tucked down a narrow alley just off the upmarket residential street, this cozy jazz bar & art gallery is a welcome alternative to Bangkok’s raucous pubs and haughty lounge bars – a true neighbourhood place.

Cafe Trio overflows with plush couches, the lighting delightfully soft, the music always subdued. The vivacious owner and bartender Patti holds court nightly and has plastered the walls with her Modiglianiesque, Vietnamese inspired paintings – have a few drinks and don’t be surprised to find yourself taking one home.

CHEAP CHARLIE’S [map 3/D6] Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-253-4648 Mon-Sat 5pm-midnight This joint is a Bangkok institution, bringing the charm of a rickety hole-in-the-wall bar to one of Sukhumvit’s swankiest Sois. A no-brainer meet-up spot, Cheap Charlie’s draws crowds of expats, NGOers and tourists in-the-know to fill up on B 70 beers and pocket-change G&Ts before heading off to eat and party – though don’t be surprised if you end up here all night. Its location is a winner, situated as it is on a cool little sub-soi (first on the left as you walk down from Sukhumvit) packed with

Clouds restaurants and a short walk from hallowed nightspots Q Bar and Bed Supperclub.

CLOUDS [Map 3/Q2] 1st F, SeenSpace, 251/1 Thong Lor Soi 13, 02-185-2365 | cloudslounge.com The third bar by Australian Ashley Sutton – the mad scientist of Bangkok’s bar scene – is, as we’ve come to expect, something entirely unexpected. Evoking a future where ‘there are no more natural resources’, this slim concrete shell at the rear of hip lifestyle mall SeenSpace has a living tree encased in glass in one corner, and concrete blocks, topped with lumps of translucent leafencasing acrylic, for tables. Vodka-based cocktails (B 280) by New York mixultant Joseph Boroski are prepped by ‘NASA technicians’ in white overalls; and the food offerings tasty misshapen pizzas, cooked in a gas-oven behind the bar and served in steel trays.

ESCAPADE [MAP 7/E3] 112 Pra-Artit Rd, Pranakorn | 087-363-2629 Tues-Sun noon-midnight | facebook.com/ escaburgersandshakes Unlike most bars in the Khao San Road area, the owners of this bohemian holein-the-wall, Khun Karn and Khun Van, are the sorts of locals you might actually strike up a conversion with. Karn, a former bartender at the Shangri-La and Mandarin Oriental, mixes creative, tasty and strong cocktails to order for only B140-B200.

Tell him your wildest alcohol-sodden fantasies and he’ll deliver you the tipple of your dreams in minutes. Van, meanwhile, rustles up lip smacking bar grub: hot dogs buried in jalapeno peppers and sizzling bacon; baskets of honey-glazed deep-fried chicken, etc.

FACE BANGKOK (map3/S7) 29 Sukhumvit Soi 38 | 02-713-6048 facebars.com | 11.30am-1am Jim Thompson, move over. Face’s visually stunning complex is reminiscent of Jim’s bangkok101.com

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furnishings. It all feels rather serious, until you open the drinks menu. Sutton brought in master New York mixologist Joseph Boroski to create 16 unique cocktails (B285 each), all named after famous WWII shipwrecks.

FIVE Gastronomy & Mixology [MAP 3/O9]

Fat Gut’z former mansion, with Ayutthaya-style buildings and thriving flora, it’s just bigger and bolder. The Face Bar is a dimly-lit place that summons deluxe drinkers with its cosy settees, ambient soundscape, and giant cocktails. Though often empty, the big drink list will stop your body clock pretty fast. The two restaurants – Hazara serving Northern Indian and Lan Na Thai serving traditional Thai – are full of fab all-Asian decor; they’re romantic and inviting, but you might be let down by the tiny portions, and the flamboyant prices.

FAT GUT’Z [map 3/Q2] 264 Thong Lor Soi 12 | 02-7149-832 fatgutz.com | 6pm-2am This sleek saloon is packed nightly with beautiful people, there to listen to live blues, indulge in carefully crafted drinks, and, perhaps, catch a glimpse of its in-demand owner, Ashley Sutton, the Australian behind the legendary Iron Fairies. Unlike his first bar, Fat Gut’z displays a less obvious sense of whimsy – here, the random fittings and industrial decor are replaced by straight lines and black-coloured, modern

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Room 103, K Village, Sukhumvit Soi 26 088-524-5550 | facebook.com/fivebkk 6pm-1am Five brings a welcome wand blast of gothic whimsy to K Village, an otherwise aesthetically uninspiring community mall.

Its owner, Pattriya Na Nakorn, invited bar entrepreneur Ashley Sutton to work his magic with a vacant plot on the ground floor. And, completing her dream team is Joseph Boroski, the same New York based cocktail ‘mixologist’ that Sutton uses. His bars always engage the day-dreamy part of your brain and this black magic themed one is no different. Think clanking pulleys, monumental iron piping and flickering candles. Indeed, even the staff look like they’ve stumbled off the set of Harry Potter.

HOUSE OF BEERS [map 3/r6] Penny’s Balcony, Corner of Thong Lor Soi 16 02-392-3513 | 11am-midnight If you fancy something that suits your palate a little more than the limited selection of Thai beers, there are ubiquitous, crowded “Irish” and “British” theme pubs or several sprawling German beer gardens around town. But the most varied and numerous quality beers in the world are brewed in Belgium – and it’s been that way since Belgian monasteries started doing so in

Hyde & Seek the Middle Ages.House of Beers, in the corner of Penny’s Balcony on Thong Lo, offers all sorts of them, from pale ales, like Leffe Blonde and Hoegaarden, to esoteric, doubly fermented specials, like Kwak, plus fruit beers. The liquid refreshment also comes augmented by Belgian fries and Tapas-style bar snacks, like steamed mussels in various sauces.

HYDE & SEEK [Map 4/L5] 65/1 Athenée Residence, Soi Ruamrudee 02-168-5152 | 11am-1am | hydeandseek.com This stylish downtown gastro bar is a deadringer for those chic London haunts that draw the after-work crowd for pickmeup cocktails and good food that doesn’t break the bank. Heading the kitchen is Ian Kittichai, the brains behind the successful Kittichai restaurant in New York, while the bar is helmed by the boys behind Flow, the cocktail consultancy that inspires much drunken fun around the region. The sleek, Georgian-influenced décor has paneled walls, clubby chairs and a large central bar, where snacks like beer battered popcorn shrimps and baby back ribs glazed with

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NIGHTLI FE

listings

Maggie Choo’s

delicious Thai food, such as salted pork neck (150 baht) and southern style curry (B160) ensures the bar consistently draws a young, local crowd who know their food.

Cocktails are just as appealing.

OSKAR BISTRO [map 3/D5]

chocolate and chilli go well with fancy, custom-made cocktails or Belgian ales.

Outside, there’s a spacious terrace with swing seats and a mini-maze of tea plants to partition dining areas.

maggie choo’s [MAP 5/c5] Hotel Novotel Fenix, 320 Silom Rd 02-635-6055 | facebook.com/maggiechoos Tues-Sun 6pm-2am From the Victorian steam-punk of Iron Fairies to the eco-futurism of Clouds, Aussie entrepreneur Ashley Sutton has already proved himself as the Terry Gilliam of Bangkok’s bar world, conjuring up drinking hole after drinking hole shot through with a magical realist quality. Maggie Choo’s, with its decadent atmosphere redolent of dandyish early 20th-century gambling dens, is no different.

Clomp down the staircase and you find yourself in a noodle bar. One that could pass for an old Shaw Brothers movie set.

The main decoration – and they are just decoration – are the leggy cabaret girls.

Every evening at about 9pm about half a dozen walk out from behind a velvet curtain and proceed to fan themselves while rocking back and forth on swings, or sprawled atop the bar. With their deep red, figure-hugging cheongsams and short bobs, these coy sex kittens are there solely to bat their eyelids at the punters.

Moose [MAP 3/S3] Ekamai Soi 21 | 02-108-9550 facebook.com/moosebangkok Tucked away behind Tuba and up a shabby looking staircase, Moose is one of the most talked about new bars in the city. The same team behind Cosmic Café and Sonic have revamped this warehouse-sized space into the latest retro-inspired hipster bar.

Brick walls, a small tree here and there, flickering candles and an alarming number of mounted animal heads create a relaxed, living-room-esque ambience. A DJ spins unobtrusive tunes while authentic and 90 | SEPTEMBER 2013

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24 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-255 3377 4pm-2am; kitchen open until 11:30pm Lively Oskar has the electro music and low ceiling cellar dimensions to qualify as clubby; and, with a dominant central bar, it’s perhaps more brasserie than bistro.

The food choice includes sandwiches, the Oskar burger (wagyu beef – what else?), pizzas and a section of cocottes. Almost all are under B300, which for food of this surprising quality is a steal. Most people come here though not for the food but for a pre-club libation: be it glass of wine (from B145 a glass), imported beer, or reasonably priced cocktail.

SALT [MAP 8/L7] Soi Ari (near Soi 4) | 02-619-6886 6pm-midnight Worth heading to Soi Ari for, Salt is a hipster-luring gastro bar with a post-modern finish. Seating is either out on an outdoor terrace or in a minimalist concrete shell – a former condominium sales office no less – with a bar at the far end and lots of raw marble, stone and wooden furniture. Behind them sits an old wooden house which is used to project digital animations on and offers extra seating. This is the sort of ubertrendy space that the editors of Wallpaper* and other design bibles kneel down and kiss the floor at, but what makes Salt is the global cuisine that’s coming out the kitchen, from fresh sashimi platters to generously dressed thin-crust pizzas cooked in a proper wood fire.

SHADES OF RETRO [ Map 8/s14] Soi Tararom 2, Thong Lor 081-824-8011 | 3pm-1am Hipster attic, here we come – Shades of Retro is a hidden Thong Lor spot awash in neo-nostalgia and stuffed with vintage furniture, vinyl records, old rotary telephones. A combo furniture storecafé,Shades provides a quiet hangout for for the writer/designer/artiste crowd by day, funpeople-watching at night, and nice jazz at all times. Curl up on a nubby couch, flip through a Wallpaper* magazine and soak up the atmosphere, which flirts with being too ironic for its pants. A cool, friendly crowd and bracing cocktails or coffee served up with popcorn humanises the hip.

Viva Aviv

TUBA [Map 8/S14] 34 Room 11-12A, Ekkamai Soi 21 02-711-5500 | design-athome.com | 11am-2am Owned by the same hoarders behind furniture warehouse Papaya, Tuba is a Bangkok classic: room upon room of haphazardly arranged kitsch, all of which you’re free to skulk through at your leisure.

Some come here to snag a comfy sofa, retro sign or goofy tchotchke. Others come for the big menu of Italian and Thai dishes tweaked for the local palate. But for us, it works best as a bar, as the setting and generous happy hours (buy one get one free between 5-8pm daily) mean there really are few cooler places to kick back with a sweet cocktail in hand (or two hands in some cases.

VIVA AVIV [map 5/C2] River City-Unit 118, 23 Trok Rongnamkhaeng, Charoen Krung Soi 30 | 02-639-6305 vivaaviv.com | 11am-midnight, later on weekends Viva Aviv reminds us of one of the hipper bars along Singapore’s Clarke Quay. Not only does it have the bar tables and stools jutting across a riverside promenade, inside there’s also a hip designer interior in full effect. Think tropical maritime chic meets dashes of outright whimsy. While the owner, Khun Ae, is responsible for this rustic look, the bar is being looked after by the cocktail designers behind popular gastrobar Hyde and Seek. Their ‘Rough Cut’ Signatures, many of them underpinned with rum (tequila is so last year, apparently), come in slightly cheaper than over at Hyde & Seek, B250.

Water Library @ Grass Grass Thong Lor, 264/1 Thong Lor Soi 12 02-714-9292 | Mon-Sat 6:30pm-1am Aside from its upmarket, inventive set menu dining on the first floor restaurant, The Water Library also has three lounge and wine bar areas downstairs with funky food, cocktails and live music at not audacious prices. A set menu of three cocktails paired with tapas bites at B790 is a pleasant bangkok101.com

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listings

NIGHTLI FE

COSMIC CAFE [Map 8/Q12]

Water Library surprise to many, and their wine list starts at a mere B900 a bottle. Water Library is one-to-watch on the regional drinking and dining scene. The very talented mixologist Mirko Gardelliano was Germany’s Cocktail Champion in 2003, while the wine bar chef Urs Lustenberger worked with Michelin three star chef Juan Amador.

WTF [Map 3/Q6] 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51 | 02- 626-6246 wtfbangkok.com | Tue-Sun 6pm-1am This tiny shophouse – signposted by graffiti on a corrugated tin wall in the street opposite – has a bar on the ground floor, decked out with mirrors along one wall, old Thai movie posters on the other, and found items like wooden screen doors and chairs. It works. The Thaifarang owners (an art manager, hotelier and photographer by trade) have made a good fist of cocktails (from B130) with rye whiskies and unusual bitters in the mix, while plates of tapas consist of Thai and Euro choices such as Portuguese chorizo and feta salad. Expect live gigs, art exhibitions upstairs and a mix of hipsters, journos and scenesters.

LIVE MUSIC ADHERE the 13TH [Map 7/G3] 13 Samsen Rd (opposite Soi 2) 089-769-4613 | 5pm-midnight Funky, jammy, bare – one of Bangkok’s coolest hangouts is nothing more than an aisle packed with five tables, a tiny bar and instruments. It’s a joint you’d expect to find on Manhattan’s Lower East Side, except forthe Chang beer. North of Khao San Road (ask for ‘Ad Here’, once in the quarter), this down-to-earth, bohemian hang-out packs ’em in nightly. On weekends, young Thais, expats and tourists spill out on the sidewalk when the joint is jumpin’. The resident band churns out cool blues, Motown and Janis Joplin; Georgia, the city’s only true Blues Mama, has a voice and figure to match. bangkok101.com

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RCA Block C | Rama IX Rd | MRT Rama 9 The rebel in RCA’s ranks, Cosmic Café serves up a mixed diet of sonic eclecticism in a grungy, open-sided corner bar with outdoor seating and a small dance floor. On one night you might the place jumping to a rare live performance by mor lam legend Dao Bandon, on another a house band dishing out some surf guitar, ska, electronic or blues. The edgiest joint on the block, it draws a lively, musically discerning crowd, from skinny jeaned artschool hipster types to teddy boy expats.

TAWANDAENG GERMAN BREWERY [MAP 2/E11]

462/61 Rama III Rd | 02- 678-1114 tawandang.co.th The one place that every taxi driver seems to know, this vast, barrel-shaped beer hall packs in the revelers nightly. They come for the towers of micro-brewed beer, the Thai, Chinese and German grub (especially the deep-fried pork knuckle and sausage), and, not least, the famous Fong Nam houseband. It’s laidback early on, but by 10pm, when the Thai/Western pop, luk krung and mor lam songs are at full pelt, everybody is on their feet and the place going bananas.

TITANIUM Club & ICE BAR [map D4) Sukhumvit Soi 22 | 02-258-3758 titanium-club.com | 6pm-1:30am Well folks, and now for something different.

Picture this: congenial hostesses clad in Bangkok-Zeitgeist ao dai. A gifted all girl rock n’ roll band jamming nightly. Bangkok’s widest selection of vodka – 90-some varieties to choose from. An intimate atmosphere, especially in The Vodka Room, chilled to a nipple-raising minus 10 degrees.

Not exactly a place to bring Mum, but a fun night out on the slightly wild side.

Jazz clubs BAMBOO BAR [Map 5/B4] The Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave 02-659-9000 | mandarinoriental.com Sun-Thu 11am-1am, Fri-Sat 11am-2am This Bangkok landmark is a symbol of past glories of the East. Situated in one of the city’s most sophisticated hotels, the 50-year-old bar oozes class, sophistication and style. Reminiscent of a tropical film noir-setting, it features a jungle theme – bamboo, palm fronds and furry patterns.

Small and busy, it’s never theless romantic

Brown Sugar and intimate – balanced by the legendary Russian jazz band that’s been on the stage here for ages. Monday through Saturday nights catch the sultry sounds of their current resident songstress, Cynthia Utterbach. Everybody’s sipping on faultless cocktails, mixed by skilled old-school bar tenders and served by a superb staff. Ideal for a boozy night on your honeymoon. A definite big Bangkok must.

Brown Sugar [Map 7/J5] 469 Phrasumen Road | 089-499-1378 brownsugarbangkok.com | 6pm-1am Little over a month after it closed down, one of Bangkok’s oldest cosiest jazz venue was back with a new, bigger location near Khao San. Now a restaurant and coffee house by day, it morphs into a world-class, jazz café-style haunt where renditions of bebop and ragtime draw an audience of locals and visitors by night. Its exterior is impressive, resembling a ritzy old cinema house. And inside, it’s huge, with a daytime coffeeshop up front, a versatile 200-seater ‘Playhouse’ upstairs, and the big, open-plan jazz pub and restaurant out back. Six house bands fill up the week, and on the last Friday or Saturday of each month they showcase an international act that’s passing through.

Niu’s on Silom [Map 5/E5] 2nd F, 661 Silom Rd | 02-266-5333 niusonsilom.com | 5pm-1am This New York-style lounge – with its hot jazz, old leather armchairs and roses on candlelit tables – has a house band with some of Bangkok’s better local talent.

They provide the backbone for various international acts who perform regularly.

There’s also a jazz jam every Sunday and occasional concerts featuring established overseas visitors. Niu’s is a class act, but still casual, comfor table for beers or brandy; and you can eat bar snacks or dine formally in the impressive Concer to Italian restaurant upstairs. Outside seating also available.

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sretsis

By Gaby Doman

O

ne of Thailand’s best-known labels internationally, Sretsis has come over all nostalgic with its latest collection. In a nod to its very first collection, ‘Heart’, 10 years ago, ‘I Heart U, All Over Again’ is full of sugar and spice and all things nice.

Unashamedly girlie, the collection is a shock of unicorns, ruffles, peachy tones, virginal whites and, of course, hearts.

Lots and lots of hearts. They’re on buttons, they’re shaped from ruffles, they’re polka-dotted all over trousers, they’re in cutaways at the chest and they’re even the shape of the collection’s sunglasses. So, if you’re not into hearts, forget it.

While romance and frills are common among Thai designers (often overdone to the point of queasiness), Sretsis’s take is certainly more mature. Despite sounding like an explosion in a gift shop in February, the collection retains the label’s usual too-cool-for-school appeal. Masculine-tailored buttoned-up shirts with patchworked sections, unicorn handbags (which are to die for, by the way), lots of linen pieces and 1950s-cut dresses give the collection a welcome dose of irony.

The colour palette is simple and powdery; dominated by dusty peach and whites with an accent of baby blues and navy blues. Many of the cuts have a retro vibe; the onesies, the high-waisted shorts and the high-collared dresses and shirts that give the romance just enough sass to restore the balance and make the collection infinitely wearable. In fact, it might make you reconsider your stance if you’re not the kind of girl to walk outside in head to toe polka-hearts.

The brand suggests this is a stripped back revisit to the ideas behind their very first collection. Over the decade they’ve matured, become more refined and grown adept at letting the cut of the clothes speak louder than the concept.

It’s a suggestion we’d agree with; ‘I Heart U, All Over Again’ manages to achieve a timeless collection while remaining cutting-edge.

available at: Sretsis Boutique Gaysorn (2F Gaysorn, 28 Ploenchit Rd; 02-656-1125; 10am-8pm) Sretsis Emporium (1F Emporium Shopping Complex, 622 Sukhumvit Soi 24; 02-259-8905; 10am-10pm) Sretsis Siam Paragon (1F Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd; 02-610-788; 10am-10pm) sretsis.com bangkok101.com

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SHOPPING

unique boutique

(Un) Fashion S

hoe-shopping in Bangkok can be a trial – many of the department stores veer toward being overpriced or having little unique stock. It can be hard to find a pair of shoes that are comfortable and characterful at the same time.

Fortunately, there’s (Un) Fashion, on the corner of Ekkamai Soi 10, selling its vintage wares in two standalone cubicles on the west side of the plaza that also houses Burger Factory and Blue Door. On the left, there’s everything for the girls and, on the right, in a decidedly smaller space, everything for the boys.

There’s a mixture of styles and colours, although there’s an emphasis on battered leather – there are some pretty serious cowboy boots for sale and, let’s face it, the only kind worth buying are the ones already well-worn. If you’re after something a little less flamboyant, there are several shelves of respectable, lovingly restored brogues, loafers and all-purpose shoes. If you need to accessorise, some of the briefcases and bags are particularly snappy.

The only drawback is that sizing is unpredictable. If you’ve got big farang feet, for example, you may find your choices slightly limited. Nonetheless, it’s a fun place to shop and to pour over whatever’s available.

And, if you do end up buying, the prices are reasonable, starting at around B2000 for a pair of boots, possibly higher depending on their condition but possibly lower depending on your ability to negotiate.

If you’re looking for a new vintage ensemble, there’s much more going on here than at many of the same old, same old retail palaces along Sukhumvit.

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(un) fashion

[MAP 3/t7]

Ekkamai Soi 10 | 02-726-9592 facebook.com/unfashionvintage | open

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market watch

SHOPPING

Khlong Thom T

his city’s obsession with all things retro may be most in evidence at hipster markets like Talad Rot Fai and Ratchada, but Klong Thom is still the original Saturday night flea market. And arguably the source of the best bargains (many vendors at the former buy their vintage wares here).

Its name means ‘landfill canal’, a reference to its location on the site of an old one that was paved over. Few can tell you exactly where it starts and ends, but roughly speaking the market occupies a square area boxed in by four main roads on the northern fringes of Chinatown: Luang, Worachak, Charoengkrung and Sieuh Pah. All taxi drivers know it, but many avoid it, as the traffic can be terrible and often stays that way until the small hours of Sunday, when it ends.

Come here on Saturday afternoon and you’ll find it’s already bustling, as there are many electrical appliance stores in the vicinity, but it’s not until

Riechers Marescot pour Carven 78184.1/90 pétrole

come share with us the joy of buying fabrics ... about 9pm that the second-hand side of things really gets going. While the outskirts are quieter, good to roam down, some alleys and sidewalks get clogged with bargain-hunters waving flashlights (many know it as the flashlight market).

You never know what you’re going to find here: battered 1950s signage; some beautiful teak gables salvaged from an old house; a pristine copy of Whitney Houston’s first LP buried in a box of obscure Thai folk and pop; Star Wars figurines still in their original packaging; a banana-shaped telephone from the 1980s; some old grandpa’s watch or coin collection.

What really gives mass appeal though is its unpretentiousness. Unlike the other aforementioned Saturday night markets, Khlong Thom is not such a contrived hipster that it frowns on the knick-knacks and essentials the city’s downhome types actually need too, like cheap underwear, shonky Chinese-made stereo equipment, or even a spare hose and noozle for your toilet’s leaky butt-sprayer. Khlong Thom is worth a troll around even if you’re not out to spend. However, if you are prepared to flash some cash, always take a close look at what you’re buying, bargain and beware pickpockets.

khlong thom

be it for a glamorous wedding occasion, a celebratory evening dinner or cocktail party or for a stylish everyday wear ...

----- new arrivals - every 2 weeks! ----find us at: gandhiplus c025 2nd fl china world bangkok cynosure a002 g fl china world bangkok 0900-1830 mon-sun tel: 02-2252002 02-2224962 gandhi 326 phahurat road bangkok 0900-1800 mon-sun tel: 02-2255997 02-2255503 www.gandhi.co.th

[MAP 6/d2]

Between Luang, Worachak, Charoengkrung and Sieuh Pah Roads 6:30pm-dawn every Saturday

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jj gem

SHOPPING

traps & wana Run by Bangkok-based Japanese designer Tepei Oue (with help from a few friends), Traps & Wana’s first incarnation was in the Pratunam fashion mall, behind CentralWorld, before they moved to Suan Lum Night Bazaar. When that was bulldozed, Oue found a new home in Siam Square (Lido Theatre), before opening a second branch at JJ. Traps & Wana is a hit with hipsters for its naughty but fun designs and graphically matching T-shirts, jackets, pants, tank-tops, bags and shoes.

You can also find them on the second (men’s floor) at Terminal 21, beside Asoke BTS station.

Jatujak Market

Forget designer malls. Jatujak weekend market is Bangkok’s true paragon of retail.

This is shopping as survival of the fittest: only those with finely tuned consumer instincts shall persevere. The rest can go and get lost – literally aking a wrong turn’s almost a given in this sprawling, city-sized marketplace, upon which thousands descend every weekend, to trade everything from Burmese antiques to pedigree livestock. Originally a flea market, Jatujak (also spelled as Chatuchak) quickly outgrew the confines of the insect world to become much more than the sum of its disparate parts.

These days, young Thai designers take advantage of the low onsite rent to punt their creative wares; if you so desire, you can peruse piles of customised Zippos that once belonged to American GIs; and tasty pickings conveniently punctuate every which way. Additionally, the exotic pet section particularly supports the theory that Jatujak has evolved its own diverse eco-system (albeit one that periodically gets busted for obviously illegal activites).

All this can be a bit overwhelming at first, but persevere and a semblance of order should begin to crystallise from the chaos. Go in the early morning or late afternoon to avoid the worst of the heat and the crowds. Or come for a leisurely browse on Friday before the real deluge hits; although only the weekend gig gives ardent shopaholics the fully blown, unadulterated Jatujak fix. bangkok101.com

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> The Jatujak market of Bangkok Amber House Books | hardcover | B1,950

The Jatujak Market of Bangkok presents photographer Simon Bonython’s visual inter­ pre­tation of Bangkok’s world-famous week­end market, giving particular emphasis on candid snaps of the general public and the characters who work there. In spite of the dark alleys and typically poorly lit stalls, Simon avoided using a tripod or flash, making for spontaneous, natural shots that capture the heat, buzz and colour of this labyrinthine treasure trove.

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WELLN ESS

treatment So Thai Spa

Refresh 24

REFRESH 24 [MAP 3 / N 9] 43 Sukumvit Soi 24 | 02-259-7235 refresh24spa.com | 9.30am-1am | $

One of Sukhumvit’s biggest, this 25-room manor of rubdown magic is located just down the road from Emporium mall – head here for a post mall-blitz recovery sesh. Instead of the exotic Thai overkill that prevails in spas here, this slick new-build has a plush neo-vintage look, with Louis XVstyle furniture adorning the lobby and Victorian-style skirting boards lining the rooms and corridors. It’s different, but elegant, calming.

The menu is similarly understated, dabbling mostly in unflashy rubs and scrubs, though there are packages and a selection of Jurlique and Algoane facials available. Of the offerings, the hot oil massage is our pick – this 90-minuter melds Thai, Balinese and other styles to snooze inducing effect.

SHIN SHIN Spa [MAP3 / y6] Jasmine Resort Hotel, 1511 Sukhumvit Rd, Klongtoey-Nua | 02-335-5022 | shinshinspa. com | 10am-8pm

Shin Shin’s smaller size is no reflection of the quality on offer. In fact, as well as standards such as the wheatgrass

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The Touch Spa welcome drink and aromatherapy foot cleansing ritual, it has a couple of aces up its sleeve that we’ve not come across before.

This kicked off with a fresh milky body scrub (B600 for 30min) that does what it says on the tin: exfoliates the body. After that, the Silk Essence Body Oil Therapy (B1600 for 90min, and B2000 for 120min) paired thesilk essence with our choice of the three gem stone massage oils, each one with its own purported benefits. The Rose Quartz is women’s favourite; the Citrine bursts with lemon and lime scent; and, our choice, the Amethyst has an intense aroma, while also apparently aiding sleeping.

So Thai Spa [MAP3 / k8] 269 Sukhumvit Soi 31 | 02-662-2691 sothaispa.com

Regular spa goers will know it’s warm, exotic, modern look well. So Thai, it is. Think parquet floors, teak wood carvings and treatment beds festooned in silk runners. There are five rooms, all of them doubles with private shower and toilet facilities, and there are more on the way. While none of this is going to set the local spa scene alight, there

is a bonus that you don’t come across very often – an outdoor swimming pool that you can take a dip in – plus, more importantly, some solid massage technique at play here.

For the best-selling Thai aromatherapy massage (B1250 for one hour) that we picked, our masseuse’s smooth strokes and focused kneading had us in a delightful, dreamy haze during it, and left us feeling refreshed and supple, not to mention smelling like a lavender pouch, after it. According to Khun Siratikarn, the masseuses are encouraged to use their own style and adapt it for each customer.

The Touch Spa [MAP 3/d11] 11/2 Ruamrudee, Ploenchit | 02-651-5722 | thetouch1.com

One of the first lessons of good spagoing that you should not be put off by a plain interior. After all, it’s the touch of your masseuse – not the frills – that counts. This point is well-proven by a joint on affluent Soi Ruamrudee, which happens to be called just that: The Touch. Head in through the doors and you’ll find a reception and foot massage area that looks much like most of the competition. Head upstairs and the treatment rooms are pretty plain too. However, once your face hits the massage mat you won’t care about the decor, especially at these prices.

Your basic one-hour Thai or foot massage is a snip at B300, while aromatherapy treatments start from a still reasonable B790 and Thai herbal compress massages from B600.

Spa costs $ :: under B600 $$ :: B600-B1000 $$$ :: B1000-B2000 $$$$ :: B2000+

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treatment

WELLN ESS

In the realm of

six senses

S

ix Senses opened their Bangkok branch earlier this year to go with their sites throughout Europe, Asia and the Middle East. Housed in the expansive, airy space in the Pacific City Club just near Nana BTS on Sukhumvit, it has quickly built a loyal base of members and regular visitors as well as being a convenient spot for visitors in need of a work-out and a treatment.

There’s a vast selection of facial and massage therapies, ranging from B2700 for an hour-long treatment to B4000 for 90 minutes. There is also a range of specially packaged ‘rituals’, which combine different experiences over two or three hours (B4300-B6800).

Our hour-long Oriental treatment (B2700) combines a full-body massage to relieve stress and reinvigorate. There’s impressive attention to detail, from the electric blanket warming the massage table to the oils that perfume the room.

And the staff are certainly thorough. Not content with the basic stretching of the usual joints, they use their knees and forearms – sometimes their whole bodies – after climbing on to the table to get the job done. After you’ve been properly ironed out by another deceptively strong masseuse, relax and enjoy the scalp massage and try to stop it from sending you to sleep. Overall, an enjoyable, highly effective treatment.

six senses

[MAP 3/f9]

30F Two Pacific Place, 142 Sukhumvit 02-653-2450 | sixsenses.com | 10am-10pm

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comm u nit y

making merit

SU

toys for thailand:

Responding to emergency L

ike most of us, Sasha Bilar watched with shock on TV as the devastation caused by the 2004 tsunami became apparent worldwide. Wanting to help in any way she could, she thought of all the children left homeless and orphaned by the natural disaster, and decided to found charitable organisation Toys for Thailand.

The concept was simple: families were encouraged to donate their unwanted toys to the charity, which were then distributed to needy children. From its early beginnings sending unwanted playthings, Toys for Thailand has since expanded its remit to providing tangible goods and services for orphaned, abandoned, and refugee children living in remote villages, reasoning it can help youth more by improving their future opportunities and providing a quality educational environment.

The Rom Klao School Pangtong Development Centre in Mae Hong Son (one of the King’s Royal Projects), was the first that Bilar and Maria Miller, the foundation’s codirector, approached to donate instructional materials, playground equipment and vocational supplies, as well as partner with on green and sustainable projects.

The Toys for Thailand project has since been expanded

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to incorporate schools across the northern border area, with a total of 12 to be targeted.

Through this work, they hope to develop the living conditions of ethnic minority children from the Aka, Hmong, Shan, Pa-O, Muser, Karen and other tribes. There is also a pilot project currently underway called Small World Mae Hong Son, which is aimed at promoting the importance of hill tribe culture to foreign tourists and other Thais, and thus raising their status as well as helping to conserve unique local traditions.

Among the many activities at Small World Mae Hong Son, tourists can purchase local products, or volunteer to teach lessons that can provide local children with future vocations, such as mushroom farming, vegetable gardening, and art classes.

However, if you are unable to visit in person, Toys for Thailand still takes donations of toys, tools, blankets, clothes, cameras, computers and books.

toys for thailand 083-152-9858 | toysforthailand.org

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year(s) issue. bangkok101.com

8/21/13 9:15 AM 8/21/13 9:18 AM

getting there 102-103_gettingthere.indd 102

RAMA IX PARK

8/21/13 9:18 AM

RAIL

Chatuchak Park / BTS Mo Chit stations.

Subway fares range from about B15 to B 39. www.bangkokmetro.co.th

SKYTRAIN (BTS)

Airport Rail Link

The Bangkok Transit System, or BTS, is a two-line elevated train network covering the major commercial areas. Trains run every few minutes from 6 am to midnight, making the BTS a quick and reliable transport option, especially during heavy traffic jams. Fares range from B 15 to B 55; special tourist passes allowing unlimited travel for one day (B120) are available. BTS also provides free shuttle buses which transit passengers to and from stations and nearby areas. www.bts.co.th

SUBWAY (MRT) Bangkok’s Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) is another fast and reliable way to get across town. The 18-station line stretches 20 kms from Hualamphong (near the central

railway station) up to Bang Sue in the north. Subways run from 6 am to midnight daily, with trains arriving every 5 – 7 minutes. The underground connects with the BTS at MRT Silom / BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Sukhumvit / BTS Asok and MRT

RIVER

EXPRESS RIVER BOAT Bangkok’s vast network of inter-city waterways offer a quick and colourful alternative for getting around the city.

Express boats ply the Chao Phraya River from the Saphan Taksin Bridge up to Nonthaburi, stopping at some 30 main piers altogether. Fares range from B 9 to B 32 depending on the distance, while tickets can either be bought on the boat or at the pier, depending on how much time you have. Boats depart every 20 minutes or so between 5:30 am and 6 pm. Crossriver services operate throughout the day from each pier for just B 3.

CANAL BOAT Khlong Saen Saep canal boats operate from Phan Fa Leelard bridge, on the edge of the Old City, and zip east to Ramkhamhaeng University. However, you have to be quick to board them as they don’t usually wait around. Canal (khlong) boats tend to be frequent and cost around B 9 to B19. Tickets are bought onboard.

Note that the piers are a little hidden away, which makes them sometimes difficult to find.

ROAD BUS Bangkok has an extensive and inexpensive public bus service. Both open-air and air-conditioned vehicles are available, respectively for B 5 and B 7.50 – B 23. As most destinations are noted only in Thai, it is advisable to get a bus route map (available at hotels, TAT offices and bookshops).

MOTORCYCLE TAXI In Bangkok’s heavy traffic, motorcycle taxis are the fastest, albeit most dangerous, form of road transport. Easily recognisable by their colourful vests, bangkok101.com

102-103_gettingthere.indd 103

A 28 km long monorail links the city’s main international airport, Suvarnabhumi, with three stops in downtown Bangktok and four stops in the eastern suburbs. Trains run from 6am to midnight every day and follow two lines along the same route. The City Line stops at all stations (journey time: 30 minutes) and costs B15-45 per journey.

The Express Line stops at downtown stations Makkasan (journey time: 13-14 minutes, trains leave every 40 minutes) or Phayathai (journey time: 17 minutes, trains leave every 30 minutes), the only one that intersects with the Skytrain.

One-way Express Line tickets cost B90 while roundtrip tickets are available at the promotional fare of B150.

motorbike taxi drivers gather in groups.

Fares should be negotiated beforehand.

TAXI Bangkok has thousands of metered,

air-con taxis available 24 hours. Flag fall is B 35 (for the first 2 kms) and the fare climbs in B 2 increments. Be sure the driver switches the meter on. No tipping, but rounding the fare up to the nearest B 5 or B 10 is common. Additional passengers are not charged, nor is baggage. For trips to and from the airport, passengers should pay the expressway toll fees. When boarding from the queue outside the terminal, an additional B 50 surcharge is added.

TUK-TUK Those three-wheeled taxis (or samlor) are best known as tuk-tuks, named for the steady whirr of their engines. A 10-minute ride should cost around B 40.

SEPTEMBER 2013 | 103

8/21/13 9:18 AM

Map 1 Greater Bangkok A

B

Greater Bangkok & the Chao Phraya Map 2 >

C

D

E

F

G

H

J

K

L MYANMAR

Uthai Thani

1

UTHAI THANI

CHAI NAT

2

Chiang Mai

LOP BURI

Nakhon Ratchasima c

Nakhon Ratchasima

Pattaya CAMBODIA Koh Samet Koh Chang

NAKHON RATCHASIM A

SARABURI

3

Andaman Sea

Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya

Koh Samui

AYUTTHAYA

Phuket

PATHUM THANI 5

b

1 2

MALAYSIA

PRACHIN BURI

f c

RATCHABURI

VIETNAM

Gulf of Thailand

Krabi

NAKHON NAYOK

4

NAKHON PATHOM

Ubon

Bangkok

ANG THONG

KANCHANABURI

Udon Thani

Lop Buri

Kanchanaburi

LAOS

THAILAND

SING BURI

SUPHAN BURI

6

M

3

2

SA KAEO

BANGKOK f a

SAMUT SAKHON

CHACHOENGSAO

SAMUT

1 PRAKAN

SAMUT SONGKHRAM

CA M BODI A CHON BURI

Phetchaburi

7

Ko Sichang

PHETCHABURI 8

Pattaya RAYONG

Cha-am

CHANTHABURI

Rayong Hua Hin

Ko Samet

Muang Chantaburi

9

PRACHUAP KHIRI KHAN 10

Trat

Gulf of Thailand

M YA N M A R

Ko Chang

Prachuap Khiri Khan

11

Ko Kut

N

20 km 20 miles Country Border Boarder Crossing Province Border

104 | SEPTEMBER 2013

104-111_map.indd 104

Sightseeing a

Bang Krachao b Rose Garden Riverside c Samphran Elephant Ground & Zoo d Ancient Siam (Muang Boran) e Safari World f Rama IX Royal Park

floating Markets Damnoen Saduak 2 Amphawa 1

Museums 1

Erawan Museum 2 House of Museum 3 Thai Film Museum 4 Museum of Counterfeit Goods

night bazaar 1

Asiatique The Riverfront [free shuttle boat from Sathorn pier everyday 4.00-11.30 pm.]

Nightlife 1 2

Parking Toys Tawandang German

Hotels 1 Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort and Spa

bangkok101.com

8/21/13 9:09 AM

A

B

C

D

E

F

G

H

J

K

L

M

N 

F

Tanya Tanee

PAK KRET

Don Mueng

2

Don Mueng Int. Airport

Ko Kret

Sai Mai

F

Royal Irrigation Dept.

3

Lak Si

F

F

Rajpruek

The Legacy

F

Northpark

4

e

Khlong Sam wa

Royal Thai Army Sport Center

F5

1

Thanont

F

Chatuchak Bang Sue

Bang Phlat

Bueng Kum

8

Huai Khwang

Saphan Sung

Bang Kapi

F

Pathumwan

Bangkok Yai Wongwian Yai

Bang Rak

Khlong San *

Thon Buri 1

Chom Thong

F

9

10

1

Bang Kholaem

Lat Krabang

Suan Luang

Khlong Toei

Sathorn

60th Anniversary Queen Sirikit Park

Krungthep Unico Kreetha Grande

Watthana

Lumpini

7

Wang Thong lang

DinDaeng Ratchathewi

Mini Buri

F

Navatanee

Phayathai

Taling Chan

6

Khan na Yao

Mo Chit

Dusit

Bangkok Noi

Panya Indra

Lat Phrao

Chatuchak

Bang Sue

Bang Bon

Bang Khen

F

MUENG NONTHABURI

Phasi Charoen

1

Prawet Yan 2 Nawa

Rat Burana

Phra Khanong 4

Phra Pradaeng

f

11

Suan Luang Rama IX

Suvarnabhumi Int. Airport

Bang Na

12

F

Summit Windmill

Bearing

Bang Khun Thian

13

F

Mueang Kaew

Thung Khru

14

F

Green Valley

15

PHRA SAMUT CHEDI

SAMUT PRAKAN

16

F

d

17

Bangpoo

Gulf of Thailand

bangkok101.com

104-111_map.indd 105

18

SEPTEMBER 2013 | 105

8/21/13 9:09 AM

Map 3 Sukhumvit Road A

B

C

D

E

F

G

Phra Ram 9

1

Ram

H

J

a IX

K

L

M

Roya

m9 Prara ital Hosp

l Cit

y Ave

RC A ange R ing

Driv

2

Din

Da

en

kam

phae

ng P

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g

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3

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e

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Makkasan

tcha

Stat

2nd

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road (Toll Expy

38/1

Su

7

het

Prasanmit

So i4 9

Su 9/1 3

IN

hro m Ph on g

Soi

Subway Line Railway

106 | SEPTEMBER 2013

104-111_map.indd 106

Arts & Culture 1

Japan Foundation 2 Koi Art Gallery

4

Sukhumvit

malls 1 2

Robinsons Terminal 21 bangkok101.com

8/21/13 9:09 AM

Sukhum

6

BTS Sukhumvit Line

Emporium

Soi 24

i1

BTS Silom Line

3

Markets

Sukhumwit

So

ay

Tai

sw

ana

s re

iN

xp

So

nE

Canal Boat

Conrad Bangkok Sheraton Grande 3 Seven 4 JW Marriot 5 Rembrandt 6 Four Points 7 Aloft Sukhumvit 11 8 Ramada Encore 9 Imperial Queen’s Park 10 Westin Grande Sukhumvit

Marriott Executive 3 Attic Studios 4 La Lanta Sukhumvit Park 12 Grande Centre Point 5 TCDC (Thailand Terminal 21 Creative & Design 13 Sofitel Bangkok Centre 6 Nang Kwak Sukhumvit 14 Le Fenix 7 WTF 15 Radisson Sukhumvit 8 The Pikture Gallery 15 Marriott Bangkok 9 We*Do Gallery 10 RMA Sukhumvit

i 39

wit

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h ko

300 m 1 328 ft

1

11

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4

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12

Hotels

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42

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12

11

Clubs 1

Q Bar Bed Supperclub 3 Insomnia 10 Glow 24 Demo 26 Levels 27 Funky Villa 2

pubs 11

The Hanrahans The Pickled Liver 13 The Robin Hood

12

bangkok101.com

104-111_map.indd 107

13

14

The Royal Oak The Londoner 16 Black Swan 15

Nightlife 4

Long Table 5 Beervault 6 Diplomat Bar 7 The Living Room 8 Cheap Charlie's 9 Barsu 19 WTF 17 Alchemist 18 Club Perdomo

20

The Iron Fairies

21 Clouds

22

Fat Gut'z Shades of Retro 25 diVino 28 Le Bar de L'Hotel 29 W XYZ 30 Face Bar 31 Marshmallow 32 Oskar Bistro 33 Tuba 34 Sonic 35 Apoteka 36 Water Library 23

37

Gossip Bar

39

Above Eleven

38 Nest

Embassies IN

India

IR Iran LK

Sri Lanka

PH Philippines

Qatar Ukraine NO Norway QA UA

SEPTEMBER 2013 | 107

8/21/13 9:09 AM

Map 4 Siam / Chit Lom A

B

C

D

E

F

G

H

J

K

L

M

5 Soi 3

Soi 31 Soi 33

Soi 25

Soi 29

12

Soi Tonson

Henri Dunant

Soi Lang Suan

NL

13

d

Soi Nai Lert

Soi 2 Soi 3

Royal Bangkok Sports Club

8

Soi 4

Soi 3

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Soi Lang Suan1

Soi R

9

NZ QA

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Soi 5

Soi 4

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f

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Soi Mahatlek Luang 3

7

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CH

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Soi Chit Lom

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Soi Ruam Rudi

Soi 23

Soi 19

Soi 15

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Soi 32

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Exp

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Soi Kaesem San 2

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6

9

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Prathunam

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1

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US

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Chulalongkorn University Area

9

N

Hotels 1

200 m 1 000 ft Canal Boat BTS Silom Line BTS Sukhumvit Line Railway Airwalk Market

Pathumwan Princess 2 Novotel Siam 3 Siam Kempinski 4 Baiyoke Sky Hotel 5 Amari Watergate 6 Novotel Platinum 7 Grand Hyatt Erawan 8 The Four Seasons 9 The St. Regis 10 InterContinental 11 Holiday Inn 12 Swissôtel Nai Lert Park 13 Conrad Bangkok 14 Centara Grand at CentralWorld 15 Hotel Muse 16 Okura Prestige

Arts & Culture 1

BACC – Bangkok Art and Culture Centre 2 Tonson Gallery

KH

BR

Sarasin

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Sarasin Lumphini Park

Sightseeing

malls

Embassies

a

MBK 2 Siam Discovery 3 Siam Center 4 Siam Paragon 5 Panthip Plaza 6 Platinum Fashion Mall 7 CentralWorld 8 Zen @ CentralWorld 9 Pratunam Center 10 Gaysorn 11 Erawan Plaza 12 The Peninsula Plaza 13 Amarin Plaza 14 Central Chidlom 15 All Seasons Place

CH

Jim Thomson House b Museum of Imagery Technology c Madame Tussads d Queen Savang Vadhana Museum e Siam Ocean World f Ganesha and Trimurti Shrine g Erawan Shrine h Goddess Tubtim Shrine

Nightlife a CM2 b

Red Sky Bar Balcony Humidor & Cigar Bar d P&L Club e Café Trio f Hyde & Seek c

1

Switzerland

BR Brazil FI Finnland ID Indonesia KH Cambodia NL Netherlands NZ

New Zealand

QA Quatar UA Ukraine UK

United Kingdom

US USA VN Vietnam

Shopping 16 17

Siam Square Pratunam Market

108 | SEPTEMBER 2013

104-111_map.indd 108

bangkok101.com

8/21/13 9:09 AM

Silom / Sathorn Map 5 E

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9

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Hotels 1

bars with views

a Threesixty The Peninsula 2 Millenium Hilton d Sky Bar 3 Shangri-La o Panorama 4 Center Point Silom p Moon Bar 5 Mandarin Oriental Nightlife 6 Royal Orchid Sheraton 7 Lebua at State Tower b La Casa Del Habano 8 Holiday Inn c Bamboo Bar 9 Chaydon Sathorn f Niu's on Silom g Barley Bistro & Bar Bangkok 10 Pullman Bangkok j Eat Me k Tapas Hotel G 11 Le Meridien Pubs 12 Crowne Plaza e Jameson's Bangkok Lumpini 13 Banyan Tree h The Pintsman 14 Dusit Thani l Molly Malone's 15 The Sukothai m The Barbican 16 Sofitel SO n O'Reilly's 17 W Bangkok

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MY Malaysia

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Robinsons River City Shopping 3 Silom Village 4 Silom / Patpong Night-Market 5 Jim Thompson Store 2

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AU Australia BE Belgium

200 m

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Embassies

Serindia Gallery 2 Silom Galleria: Number 1 Gallery, Tang Contemporary Art, Taivibu Gallery, Gossip Gallery 3 H Gallery 4 Bangkokian Museum 5 Alliance Francaise

Snake Farm MR Kukrit’s House

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Map 7 Rattanakosin (Oldtown) A

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M Y B A N G KO K

Benjawan Wisootsat

Benjawan is co-owner of fin (fabulous is needed), a boutique events company that specialises in pairing fine wine with amazing food. It's a line of work that has allowed Benjawan to sample the best Bangkok has to offer but, while her taste in food and drink is as refined as it gets, she also retains an appetite for the local, authentic highlights of Bangkok.

Favourite place for a drink?

I like Zuma – it's a Japanese restaurant on Ratchadamri Rd that has a really nice space for drinks. It's a very comfortable place, very relaxing. They do some great cocktails and wine by the glass.

I forget the cocktails that I like but the bartender always recommends something for me, sometimes with sake but sometimes without. I always like to experience something new.

Best place to eat out?

With our work as a wine distributor, we do a lot of that and, these days, I really like to cook at home. But if I'm looking for somewhere authentic to eat, I really like Appia on Sukhumvit Soi 31. But I like to go local as well – I know a place in Thonburi that does old-style fried rice, using charcoal and a big wok. Whenever I take Michelin star chefs there, they love it as well.

What makes Bangkok's eating and drinking scene distinctive?

I've travelled a lot and what makes Bangkok so interesting is that you can taste everything – all kinds of food – but we still use local ingredients.

Of Asia's top 50 restaurants, five are in Bangkok, many with famous chefs, including foreigners, who are passionate about Thailand 112 | SEPTEMBER 2013

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in places like Chinatown, Thonburi and Thanon Nang Lerng. I also like to visit floating markets.

Zuma and Thai favours. Someone like David Thompson started his restaurants overseas but is now in Bangkok. Thai food is very tasty already but it is becoming better-known and people are getting better at really bringing out those flavours.

Best place to shop?

I'm not big on shopping but I like to walk on the street. I don't look for brand names but if I see something I like then I can end up buying it. When it comes to food, I really like Sam Yan market – you can get all the produce you need, whether it's seafood, meat or vegetables. They have things that you can't get at the supermarket and everything is fresh, with real people.

What do you do to relax?

I find staying at home very relaxing but I also like to discover more of Thailand and Bangkok, particularly those small streets that are very local,

Best place for art?

The biggest and best gallery is the country and the city themselves.

Everywhere, you can go out and see people – it is the art of life. But I also like 100 Ton Son Gallery.

Where do you take visitors to Bangkok?

Sometimes I like to take them to the best hotels, places like the Mandarin Oriental and the Banyan Tree but we will also take them through the streets to taste the city's famous street food. Particularly when we are showing chefs around, the seafood in Chinatown and the ingredients really excite them.

What makes Bangkok such an interesting city?

I like the fact you can have a local experience or very international one.

You can live in a way that is expensive or in a way that is cheap. You can eat at any time of day and if you go to somewhere like Sukhumvit Soi 38, you will see people from different backgrounds coming and eating together. The Thai people are flexible and the culture teaches that guests are the most important people. bangkok101.com

8/22/13 3:45 PM

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