NOW Magazine 33.45 Beer Guide

e d i u G r e Be T oron to

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MICHAEL WATIER

20 brilliant brew bars the best summer session beers

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e d i u G r e e B The beer scene is changing so rapidly, you need a special guide to keep up.

That’s why we’ve devoted pages to all things hop-​ular culture: new brews to tingle the taste buds, the best places to drink them, the burgeoning collaboration movement, the lowdown on creative bottle labels and a check-​in with ­major industry players on what beer lovers can ­expect in the future. Happy drinking!

toronto's best beer bars When sucking back suds, you want a venue that has a great vibe, super snacks and an awesome beer list.

Here are our picks for the best places to knock back some brews.

Amsterdam ­BrewHouse 245 Queens Quay West, 416-504-1020, amsterdambrewhouse.com

stefania yarhi

By sarah parniak

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Its sprawling, state-of-the-art lakefront digs may be new, but Amsterdam’s been a key player in downtown’s brewing game since opening its first brew pub in the mid-80s. Shake the chokehold of mid-July humidity by planting yourself on the ginormous patio and letting a cold pint and the lake breeze work their magic. Dip into standards like Boneshaker and Downtown Brown, select something special from the cellar (a bottle of the award-winning Spring Bock, perhaps?) or sip from a list of limited weekly releases like the Darjeeling Wit (brewed with spices and tea leaves) or the Testify (Encore) brett pale ale.

Years in operation The original Amsterdam brew pub opened on John Street in 1986; the BrewHouse opened last summer.

Specialty ’Dam good beer.

Food Something for everyone: pizzas, lobster rolls, burgers, salads, stuff to share. A menu key guides you through beer pairings.

Patio Licensed for 300 Hours Sunday to Thursday 11:30 am to 11 pm, Friday and Saturday to 1 am.

CELEBRATING 20 YEARS

Legal Age 19+. Proper ID Required. No Children or Pets. Rain or Shine. Please Enjoy Responsibly.

Bar Hop

Beerbistro

Voted best draught selection at Ontario’s Golden Tap Awards last year (a deserved nod to the impeccably curated 36 taps plus two casks), Bar Hop is an outpost for great beer on a touristy strip otherwise best avoided apart from random pilgrimages to the LCBO and occasional culture absorption at TIFF Bell Lightbox. Since opening two summers ago, it’s become lower downtown’s spiritual home for craft brews, attracting everyone from occasional beer drinkers to full-blown hops scholars. What keeps the crowds surg­ing in, besides the incredible selection, are the chill, über-knowledgeable staff, who unblinkingly fill in the blanks when it comes to the constant rotation of collaborative one-offs and small-batch specialties. Check in frequently for badass tap takeovers and the next instalment of Hop Talk, an educational meet-the-maker series featuring local breweries.

Years in operation Two Specialty 36 taps plus two cask options; tons of rotating and rare (mostly local) brews, plus a vast bottle s­ election.

Food Contempo pub fare like burgers and mac ’n’ cheese; don’t miss buck-a-shuck oysters on Tuesdays.

Patio A small front patio seats 14.

Hours Daily noon to 2 am.

Beerbistro is one of the city's top destinations for Belgian beer And if you do dig that kind of scene, throw yourself into the mob, clear a path with designer-clad elbows and order a fancy beer – there are over 100 kinds to choose from. Beerbistro is an excellent launch pad for the novice beer drinker. The bottleheavy menu is formatted as a flavour map navigable by mood. If you fancy something quenching, sociable, robust or spicy, your options (complete with tasting notes) are laid out for you.

Years in operation 11 years.

Specialty A wide selection of Belgian bottles, plus local and international sel­ections; 20 mostly local taps with some Euro faves like Rodenbach and Hacker-Pschorr mixed in.

Food Belgian-inspired fare like mussels and steak frites with suggested beer pairings; gastro pub grub. Beer is even incorporated into some dishes, like the cheese and lager fondue ($15) and the Blanche de Chambly cured smoked ­salmon ($12).

Patio Sizable side patio seats 60.

Hours Monday to Wednesday 11:30 am to 1 am, Thursday and Friday 11:30 am to 2 am, Saturday 11 am to 2 am. Sunday 11 am to midnight.

18 King East, 416-861-9872, ­beerbistro.com

stefania yarhi

391 King West, 647-352-7476, ­barhopbar.com

Bar Volo

stefania yarhi

587 Yonge, 416-928-0008, ­barvolo.com

Most things beer-related in Toronto are influenced by Volo’s gravitational pull. Family-owned and -operated since 85, this craft beer mecca brews its own (House Ales), imports the stuff beer geeks dream about via Keep6 (Trou du Diable, Cantillon, De Molen) and even organizes its own celebration of cask-conditioned ale, Cask Days. (This October marks the festival’s ninth year). ­Expect to wait for a seat on Volo’s superpopular leafy patio, but once you get a glass of something special in your hand, nothing else much matters.

Years in operation 29 Specialty Thirty-two regional and often rare draught options, plus six cask ales and two local wines on tap. Explore the rotating selection of House Ales from the in-house nano brewing ­system, the cellar stocked with local bottles and awesomeness imported

by Keep6.

Food Snack boards (local ­cheeses, meats, pickles) and sandwiches.

Patio Seats 60 Hours Monday to Thursday 2 pm to 2 am, Friday and Saturday noon to 2 am, Sunday 2 pm to midnight.

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CELEBRATING 20 YEARS

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Legal Age 19+. Proper ID Required. No Children or Pets. Rain or Shine. Please Enjoy Responsibly.

Bryden’s

2455 Bloor West, 416-760-8069, ­brydens.ca

Bellwoods Brewery 124 Ossington, 416-535-4586, bellwoodsbrewery.com

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C’est What?

67 Front East, 416-867-9499, ­cestwhat. com

The first time I wandered in I was convinced I’d crossed the threshold into a magical land of beer, and my perception hasn’t altered much since. One of Toronto’s OG brew pubs, C’est What is to beer what Rodney’s is to oysters: a no-fail subterranean den of delights. “Toronto’s local” is the kind of place you can’t help but develop a soft spot for. Taps pour a combo of local craft beer (Black Oak, Flying Monkeys, McAuslan, Granite) and CW’s own goodness like Joan’s Dark Secret (a cask-conditioned dark bitter beer) and Mother Pucker’s Ginger Wheat.

Years in operation 26 Specialty Forty-four taps pour local craft beer exclusively, including seven of C’est What’s own beers and eight casks.

Food Lots of rib-sticking riffs on classic pub fare, from poutine and antojitos to butter chicken, jambalaya and shepherd’s pie.

Patio None Hours Sunday and Monday 11:30 am to 1 am, Tuesday to Saturday 11:30 am to 2 am.

david hawe

Michael watier

Bellwoods has serious clout in the local craft beer scene because of its signature brews. Diversity is the word at this westside brew pub (a converted Ossington auto garage with lots of space for a good-sized micro system in the back), where you can sip an entire spectrum – from ultra-light Stay Classy (session ale at 2.8% ABV) to heavyweights like Donkey Venom brett barrel-aged porter and funkadelic small-batch Farmageddon (wine-­barrel-aged Farmhouse Classic with brett).

Years in operation Two Specialty Whatever’s new and seasonal from the brew pub Food Cheese, meat and veggie boards padded by a few entrees. Beer-friendly snacks like fries, bar nuts and salumi.

Patio 40 Hours Monday to Wednesday 5 pm to midnight, Thursday and Friday 5 pm to 1 am, Saturday noon to 1 am, Sunday noon to midnight.

This local has been valiantly waging war on the thirst epidemic in Bloor West Village since the turn of the century – 1998 to be exact. A trip to Bryden’s (a bit of a hike for those not stationed due west) is worthwhile for local beer lovers and mandatory during festivals like OCB and Toronto Beer Week, when it hosts a series of beer-tastic events. Bryden’s keeps it close to home with 17 craft draughts, the majority of them Ontarian.

Years in operation 16 Specialty Seventeen taps, including a cask option, seven of them rotating Food Sandwiches, schnitzel, salads, nachos, butter chicken.

Patio Seats 20 Hours Monday to Sunday noon to 2 am.

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your dry hopped summer pilsner is here!

USLY DRY HOPPED DELICIO

Available at friendly LCBO stores across Ontario Cheers! Claude and Nathan facebook.com/hopsandrobbers

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CELEBRATING 20 YEARS

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Legal Age 19+. Proper ID Required. No Children or Pets. Rain or Shine. Please Enjoy Responsibly.

Cloak & Dagger

394 College, 647-436-0228, cloakanddaggerpub.com

There’s something true grit-ish about hole-in-the-wall bars that charms me more than reclaimed barnwood and 20-watt Edison bulbs ever could. Cloak & Dagger has a rep as a cave-like pub frequented by thirsty, cash-strapped students, but beer lovers know it’s got much more to offer. Squishing almost 30 taps behind the tiny bar, the pub pours primary craft brew from small Ontario breweries like Junction, Barley Days, Wellington, Kensington Brewing Company and Gananoque. Settle in at one of the back patio’s cigarette-pocked picnic tables and work your way toward a ­solid day buzz.

Years in operation Over 14 Specialty Twenty-seven taps plus cask, mostly Ontario craft Food No regular menu, but guests are allowed to bring food. Taco Sundays offer all you can eat with lots of fixins for $3.

Patio Back patio fits 50 Hours Daily 2 pm to close.

Get Well

1181 Dundas West, 647-351-2337, ­getwellbar.com

Granite Brewery

245 Eglinton East, 416-322-0723, ­granitebrewery.ca

The local uptown offshoot of a now-shuttered Halifax brew pub, the Granite has been spreading the good word on locally brewed British-style ales for over 20 years. Its Hopping Mad has cleaned up in the cask-conditioned ale category four years running at Ontario’s Golden Tap Awards. It’s a family affair: founder Ron Keefe recently passed the head brewer’s torch to his daughter, Mary-Beth Keefe. Flagship brews like the Peculiar Ale and Keefe’s Irish Stout have been enjoyed around town for years, but lately the Granite’s branched out with more seasonal and small-batch brews.

Years operating 23 in Toronto; the original Halifax pub was founded in 1985.

Specialty British-style brews and cask ales; growlers and kegs available at Granite’s store, open Monday to Saturday 11:30 am to 11 pm, Sunday 11 am to 11 pm.

Food The large menu covers lots of pub-appropriate territory like burgers, beerbattered fish and chips, Cobb s­ alad and curries. Regular menus are rounded out with rotating weekly specials­.

Patio Front and back seating 45 and 90 respectively.

Hours Monday 11:30 am to midnight, Tuesday to Saturday 11:30 am to 1 am, Sunday 11 am to midnight.

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r .jeanette martin

stefania yarhi

If you’re ’bout that craft beer, have it with a side of vintage video games and pinball tables. Communal man cave meets unisex adult playground, the space is pure fun. I’ve never had anything but good times here. Don’t skip the awardwinning flagship brews like Get Well Porter that brewmaster Brad Clifford pumps out from the in-house nano system.

Years in operation Two Specialty Anything from the brew pub, like Bastard Landlord IPA or Simcoe Session IPA, but there are 10 total taps plus two cask options, the majority of them local.

Food Beer counts?

Patio Nada Hours Daily 5 pm to 2 am.

Indie Ale House

2876 Dundas West, 416-760-9691, i­ndiealehouse.com

Indie’s earned a city-wide rep as one of the cool kids in the local craft scene for its big-flavoured, American-inspired brews and creative ingredients, but the inviting brew pub is generally packed with locals. It’s not uncommon to spot parents joyously clinking pints while young ’uns are distracted by a plate of fries and an iDevice. The spacious room has a warm Canadiana vibe, a mellow clime for throwing back a flight of Indie’s seasonals like Dead Spadina Monkey (sour ale aged on raspberries), Couch Surfer IPA and collabs like the Camp Out S’more Stout with Sawdust City. So hop on your bike or trek out to the Junction. Indie’s worth multiple visits.

Years in operation Almost two Specialty Inventive in-house brews. Hit the beer store for beer to go.

Food Pure beer food – pizza, burgers, mac ’n’ cheese and snacks like smoked chicken wings and Parmesan and sage popcorn; check out the Wednesday BBQ menu.

Patio No Hours Brew pub Monday 5 pm to midnight, Tuesday to Thursday noon to 1 am, Friday and Saturday noon to 2 am, Sunday noon to 10 pm; beer store Monday 5 pm to 11 am, Tuesday to Saturday noon to 11 pm, Sunday noon to 9 pm.

The Only

972 Danforth, 416-463-7843, ­theonlycafe.com

stefania yarhi

NOW AVAILABLE IN CANS!

With all of the fantastic local liquid filling our pints (and our memory banks no doubt impaired by years of excellent intake), we tend to overlook the fact that our now thriving craft beer scene predates the past half-decade. A precious handful of visionaries were dishing local draught long before many devout drinkers of trendy microbrews were even born, let alone of legal drinking age. The Only is a grandpappy of T.O.’s beer scene, stocking up to 230 bottles. Some of the most desired brews make their way into its vortex, including the vast majority of Keep6 Imports’ portfolio: lots from cult indie breweries Trou du Diable, Dieu du Ciel!, Cantillon and De Molen. This hub for the beer community even hosts its own quarterly beer festival. Whether you’re a regular or an Only virgin, this is the kind of spot where strangers become friends and there are no pretenses, only the enjoyment of good drink.

Years in operation 32 Specialty 24 taps plus a cask showcase local craft brews. Check out the crazy-extensive list, which routinely hovers around 200 bottles.

Food Limited lunch and snack options; guests are encouraged to bring their own food to enjoy with their beer.

Patio The sunny back patio seats 50 Hours Daily 10 am to 2 am.

Mill St. Brew Pub and Monarch Tavern 12 Clinton, 416-531-5833, Beer Hall ­themonarchtavern.com 21 Tank House, 416-681-0338, beerhall.­ millstreetbrewpub.ca

Mill Street’s earned my admiration with its successful coup: I think more people in T.O. proper, whether visitors or natives, now order Mill St. Organic Lager over Molson Canadian.

Pause for applause. With last year’s Beer Hall expansion, the company has branched out with bolder brews and more experimental seasonals. Sample the beers of summer, like Belgian Cherry IPA and 100th Meridian American-style organic amber lager. Might as well order a shot of bierschnaps (a tra­ ditional German spirit distilled from beer via the in-house micro-distillery) to sip alongside your pint, because what the hell else do you have to do today?

Years operating The Brew Pub opened 12 years ago and added the Beer Hall in 2013.

Specialty A range of flagship and seasonal in-house brews plus bierschnaps distilled from staples like Tankhouse, Frambozen, and Coffee Porter.

Food Contemporary North Americana meets traditional German beer hall.

Patio Brew Pub seats 62, the Beer Hall 113 Hours Brew Pub Monday and Tuesday 11 am to 11 pm, , Wednesday 11 am to midnight , Thursday 11 am to 1 am, Friday 11 am to 2 am, Saturday 10:30 am to 2 am, Sunday 10:30 am to 10 pm; Beer Hall Monday and Tuesday noon to 10 pm, Wednesday noon to 11 pm, Thursday noon to midnight, Friday noon to 2 am, Saturday 11:30 am to 2 am, Sunday 11:30 am to 10 pm.

I’m a hopeless sucker for bars with history. If these cultural monuments also happen to serve great beer within a stone’s throw of San Francesco’s sandwiches, even better. The Monarch, one of the city’s oldest licensed establishments (it opened in 1927), has shifted its focus in the past few years to spotlight Ontario brewers. The old-school upstairs, one of those rooms you wish had talking walls, is a sweet spot for a pensive midday pint, and the updated main floor holds more than enough bodies to spark a great party. Most of the taps keep it local with brews from Great Lakes, Side Launch and Left Field, and there’s plenty of bourbon to keep your IPA company.

Years in operation 87 Specialty 16 (mostly local) draught beers, plus one cask Food Canadian pub faves with locally sourced ingredients: buttermilk-fried chicken, back bacon sandwiches and poutine. Snacks – sliced Italian sausage, mixed olives, Brazilian salgadinhos – have a more international bent.

Lots of gluten-free options.

Patio None Hours Monday to Saturday 11 am to 2 am, Sunday 4 pm to 2 am

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e d i u G r e e B Stout Irish Pub 221 Carlton, 647-344-7676, ­stoutirishpub.ca

This cozy Cabbagetown pub has a far better draught selection than your average local.

Old faithfuls from GLB, Amsterdam, King and Nickel Brook can always be found alongside the four taps devoted to limited-release local beers. Sniffing out more cool stuff to drink requires a glance at the bottles and cans.

Stout keeps standards like Neustadt’s 10W30, Sawdust City’s Lone Pine IPA and Hogtown kölsch along with a rotating selection of seasonals and geeky finds like GLB’s Limp Puppet (session IPA) and Brouwerij De Molen’s Mooi & Meedogenoloos. It even does you the favour of playfully classifying brews (Come to the Dark Side, Sweet Young Thing, High Octane) to wash away indecision and suit your mood.

Years in operation Over three Specialty 20 taps plus cask. Don’t neglect the well-curated bottle list.

Food The tasty menu spans lamb ­burgers, perogies and a poutine list (!) along with more traditional pub fare like Irish stew and beef dip.

Patio Seats 40 Hours Daily 11 am to 2 am.

Thirsty & ­Miserable

197 Baldwin, 647-607-0134

Tallboys

838 Bloor West, 416-535-7486, ­tallboyscraft.com

r .jeanette martin

In a city where pouring a dubbel into a pilsner glass can shatter your social life, drinking straight from the can is massively underrated.

The relief of frosty condensation on your sweaty palm, the satisfying crush that follows your final sip: why deny yourself these small wonders in the name of propriety? At Tall Boys, where cans of local brew are the house specialty, glass shame will never be an issue. (If heathenry makes you squirm, glasses are, of course, available.) Tall Boys is almost always tuned into a game, making it a great haunt for sports fans. Keep an eye on the board to the right of the bar for the “secret beer” – whatever’s new and fleeting.

Years in operation Almost two Specialty Over 50 tallboys and seven taps, exclusively Ontarian Food Exactly what you want to eat with beer: nachos, pulled pork tacos and substantial, freshly ground burgers. Veggie options, too.

Patio None Hours Monday to Thursday 4 pm to 12:30 am, Friday 4 pm to 2 am, Saturday 1 pm to 2 am, Sunday 1 pm to 12:30 am.

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One of Kensington’s raddest watering holes, Thirsty & Miserable gets my vote for bestnamed bar. A chill haunt to slake your thirst and slay your worries, this tiny spot (long ago punk rock haven Planet Kensington) has an even tinier front patio. Arrive early and kick your Cons up to observe the never-ending spectacle of daily life along the Market’s jugular. Owner Katie Whittaker has excellent and eclectic taste. Her bar is stocked with local one-off goodness (GLB’s Thrust! IPA spotted recently along with a limited supply of Dieu du Ciel’s bourbon-barrel-aged Péché­Mortel) and a fridge of intri­guing imports.

Years in operation Two and a half Specialty Excellent beers in a chill, divey­environment.

(Highest praise – dive bars are the best.)

Food Snacks to cover legal requirements, but guest are encouraged to BYOF from surrounding (delicious) Kensington vendors.

Patio Seats 9 (not bad considering the pub itself only seats 28) Hours Tuesday to Thursday 5:30 pm to 2 am, Friday to Sunday 2 pm to 2 am. Closed Monday.

CELEBRATING 20 YEARS

Legal Age 19+. Proper ID Required. No Children or Pets. Rain or Shine. Please Enjoy Responsibly.

Town Crier

Victory Café

Boasting one of the city’s largest draught selections, the Town Crier pours from around the globe with a focus on Old World brews from Belgium, Germany and Czech Republic. (If you notice parallels with Sin & Redemption and the Village Idiot, it’s because they’re owned by the same folks). The bottle list includes Trappist treasures like Westvleteren 8 and 12, Westmalle Tripel and Rochefort 10. On top of its oceans of delicious beer, the Town Crier’s big, sun-soaked patio (easily the best in the ’hood) is a major draw.

Years in operation Three Specialty 50 taps showcasing mostly Belgian and German beers Food German- and Belgian-influenced dishes to parallel the Euroheavy beer list Patio 45 OCBA3615Now Mag Ads9.833X5.542_R2_HIRES.pdf Hours Daily 11 am to 2 am.

A Mirvish Village institution, the Victory has a street-side patio – usually rammed – where you can catch a beer buzz. Or cozy up to the bar for a pint of stout in the winter (not like we’re thinking about Polar Vortex 2.0 right now). It's a relaxed spot for the locally-inclined beer drinker; the Vic pours mighty drinkable brews from Beau’s, Spearhead and Neustadt, with two turnover taps dedicated to experimental and small-batch brews from Great Lakes and other badasses of brew.

Years operating Over 15 Specialty 15 local taps, plus casks Food Standard pub grub, with veggie options Patio 25 Hours Monday to Friday 3 pm to 2 am, Saturday and Sunday 10 am to 2 am.

581 Markham, 416-516-5787, ­victorycafe.ca

r .jeanette martin

115 John, 416-204-9588, ­towncrierpub.ca

WVRST 1

7/4/14

11:52 AM

609 King West, 416-703-7775, ­wvrst. com

Don’t let the fancy (and addictive) ­encased

meats at WVRST steal the thunder from the noteworthy row of Ontario-focused taps.

The joint pro­nounced “Verst” is a the classedup Torontonian version of a German social staple: the beer hall. Elongated communal seating makes this a stellar choice for lowmaintenance parties. Just so the currently unaware can avoid confusion and unnecessary panty-bunching, WVRST doesn’t do table service. Order at the counter (if you’re lost, read the signs), take a number (calm down, they’ll give it to you), and your pint and sausage will be dropped off in no time. Psst: $5 glasses of Ontario craft every Monday.

Prost!

Years in operation Three Specialty 24 taps plus Ontario cask, lots of local beer, with three taps reserved for international classics like Pilsner Urquell and Weihenstephaner, and three taps dedicated to local cider from Spirit Tree, West Avenue and Twin Pines.

Food House-made sausages on a bun and duck fat frites. Mmmm. Mess-hall-style service.

Patio None Hours Sunday to Wednesday 11:30 am to 11 pm, Thursday 11:30 am to midnight, Friday and Saturday 11:30 am to 1 am.

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At the Ontario Craft Brewers ®, our 40+ members brew premium beer with a single, noble purpose: to satisfy your every taste.

Why not discover over 300 of our locally crafted premium ales, lagers, stouts, pilsners and more?

Each one is brewed in small batches with all-natural ingredients and no preservatives.

You’ll understand when you open one. Look for the OCB ® seal at the LCBO and The Beer Store.

Discover The Difference at www.ontariocraftbrewers.com Ontario Craft Brewers

@OntCraftBrewers

Find OCB Beers near YOU!

Download the OCB Handheld App at www.ontariocraftbrewers.com

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CELEBRATING 20 YEARS

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Legal Age 19+. Proper ID Required. No Children or Pets. Rain or Shine. Please Enjoy Responsibly.

Suds scene changes

Veteran beer-makers, promoters and lovers predict the future of Toronto's ever-changing beer landscape By DAN GRANT

typical Bar taps 1970

Two

black taps. One said ale, the other lager. Those were your draught choices.

“One would be a bit more bitter, so you could imagine 50 or Ex being the ale, and Blue, maybe Canadian, would be the lager. But that was primarily it,” says Roger Mittag of the dismal era when he started drinking beer.

“It was taverns. Pubs were just starting to come in.”

That was the 1970s. Thankfully, it was nearing the end of the bland era when beer, like food (think instant potatoes, Minute Rice, frozen dinners) was marketed to consumers who chose convenience over flavour.

Now, of course, the beer scene is much more vibrant. With close to 150 breweries in operation, Ontario is nearing the peak it reached in the 19th century. Selection has exploded, and so has interest.

This staggering growth led Mittag to found Prud’homme Beer Certification, his homebrewed education program, which awards beer sommelier credentials while foster­ing discernment.

The Etobicoke native takes students through lesson plans that go well beyond memorization and sensory perception. From issues with draught systems to brewery tours and even a cooking class, the three-level program draws on his extensive background as an educator and consultant.

“Small batch beer!,” is the rallying cry of the

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typical Bar taps 2014 microbrewers, drawing a distinction between their own hands-on approach and the formulaic recipes of the brewing giants. But Mittag worries some are putting too much emphasis on the indie cred that comes with being small, creating yet another divide between themselves and the craft brewers that are doing the most to change the public palate.

“There are people who view the success of Steam Whistle and Mill Street negatively,” he says, recalling that everyone loved them when they were new. “but now that they’re doing things with great quality and driving their sales, they’re viewed as sell-outs. To me that’s sad, because they’re really the ones leading the way.”

The industry is maturing, but with that come growing pains, and the moans are getting louder.

The challenge of retail As quickly as they’ve grown, Ontario craft brewers’ biggest problem isn’t lack of demand – at least not yet. There’s an enormous appetite for the local juice. The province’s dated retailing system, however, is prevent­ing supply from meeting demand.

Ontario liquor laws permit brewers to sell at their own physical location, the LCBO or the Beer Store. That’s it. And that’s a problem.

The LCBO, derided by brewers for its cumbersome approval and distribution pro­cess, is still the preferred option. In the past decade,

Ontario craft beer has enjoyed nearly 35 per cent annual growth at the provincial agency, which doesn’t charge suppliers to be listed.

Now, however, the LCBO is passing on brews from popular local producers, compelling some to make an expensive gamble on a system they’d ra­ther avoid or resort to paying off publicans in order to grow their brand.

Kensington Brewing Company chose to roll the dice. In business only since 2011, it’s what’s known as a contract brewer, meaning its recipes are brewed at another facility with extra capacity. By the fall, KBCo hopes to move into a space currently un­der construction at 299 Augusta, but until then it has no retail shop of its own.

The brewer’s flagship beer, Augusta Ale, is listed at scores of LCBO locations from Ottawa to London and right up into cottage country.

Its second release, Fish-Eye PA, has an even wider reach, from Windsor to Thunder Bay. Last year’s follow-up, however, met with a different fate, despite being both unique and very popular.

Fruit Stand Watermelon Wheat, brewed for the summer of 2013, was a big seller at bars. The public liked it so well, they voted it the best seasonal beer in Ontario at September’s Golden Tap Awards – impressive for a beer that was only available on tap. Even that didn’t convince the LCBO to stock it for 2014.

“I’m not going to bash the LCBO,” says KBCo continued on page 12 œ

There are two simple rules for crafting great beer.

Brew it small. And brew it big. Small as in small batches, so you can tinker until everything’s perfect. And big as in taste. Not watered down, middle-of-the-road flavour, we’re talking a brew worth brewing. And a brew worth drinking. Like our famous Creemore Springs

Premium Lager. One sip and you’ll agree: it’s the little things that make a big difference.

Client: Job name: DoCket #: aD #: Pub:

Creemore Creemore Pring P14-0781 None NOW

trim: SaFety: bleeD: inSertion Date: PPi:

58p11.976 x 67p6 None None None 225

Cyan NOW BEER GUIDE 2014 NOW Magenta Yellow Black

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by a tasting panel, including the brand category manager and brand product manager. At present the LCBO carries 227 different Ontario craft beer products and is introducing 25 more this summer.

Citing walk-in beer fridges at new and expanded locations, Murray says the LCBO is keeping pace with the growth of the province’s scene.

“People that have a new beer, come and see us.”

Michael Hancock feels differently.

“I think the market is becoming extremely crowded – not just the number of beers, but what the LCBO can handle,” says the head brewer at the newly opened Side Launch Brewing Company in Collingwood. The Englishman has been part of the local industry for nearly four decades, having crossed the Atlantic in 1976 to become an engineer at Molson’s Toronto plant.

One of the most respected brewers in the province (see more on Side Launch, page 19), Hancock has also faced his share of challenges, from the closure of Denison’s Brewing Company, where his Weissbier gained international renown, to being prevented by a legal technicality from brewing that same beer at Mill Street. For the last 10 years he’s been a contract

owner Brock Shepherd. “They’ve been good to work with. It is curious, though. I went in yesterday and saw two new Shock Top flavours [an Anheuser-Busch brand], and we can’t get in with ours.”

Shepherd ended up taking his award-winning beer to the only retail option left. Unlike the government-owned LCBO, the privately con­trolled Beer Store is open to any player with deep enough pockets. For KBCo that meant shelling out $15,000 to get into just 40 locations, where it finally appeared a month after bars started pouring it.

Barrie’s Flying Monkeys had a similar problem getting its new dark rye ale into the LCBO. It, too, grudgingly sent its Matador 2.0: El Toro Bravo to the Beer Store shortly before releasing a public statement imploring the government to open the system to new, private competition.

Without commenting on why these two beers were rejected, the LCBO says a range of factors such as quality, flavour, the brewer's marketing plan and local tastes determine whether a product is accepted.

Each year, according to senior communications consultant Lisa Murray, more than 100 new Ontario craft beer products are evaluated

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brewer, relegated to observer status as others brewed his beer for him.

Now at Side Launch, Hancock has an ownership stake in a bricks-and-mortar facility where he once again is the brewer of record. It remains to be seen, however, how the newly branded Side Launch Wheat will be re­ceived.

Denison’s Weissbier was the highest ranked hefeweizen in the world for close to a decade on one of the web’s most influential sites.

“It’s actually a little embarrassing, how that started,” concedes Hancock. ­Ratebeer.com’s editor-in-chief was raving about it as early as 2002, “and obviously that affected how other people view it.”

At the time, Denison’s was only available at the Victoria Street brew pub now occupied by the Beer Academy. Unlike other brands that would lose their characteristic freshness after being bottled and shipped long distances, his had the advantage of being scored by a community of enthusiasts drinking it at its source.

“I’m sure people in Germany were saying, ‘Who the hell is this English guy in Toronto?’”

Ratebeer still lists Denison’s Weissbier as the third-best hefeweizen on the planet. Side Launch Wheat, despite being brewed by Hancock from the same recipe, still doesn’t figure in the top 50. Fortunately, it is available at plenty

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of LCBO locations. (Incidentally, Side Launch Dark Lager – formerly Denison's Dunkel – is number two on ­ratebeer.com.)

Nasty competition

Getting respect for an upstart brand would be a challenge for any brewer. Making matters worse is the suggestion that other, better-financed craft brewers are using nefabious means to restrict the marketplace.

No one is naming names – at least not for the record – but bitter sales reps and their bosses all have stories about brewers they used to admire paying to get their kegs onto draught lines at bars. That, in fact, is illegal, but through creative marketing (pa­tio umbrellas, sponsored parties, base­ball tickets or other favours), com­panies with bigger budgets can make it pretty easy for a publican to get complacent about their non-rotat­ing taps.

“Because it’s so competitive, peo­ple are cutting deals and doing dif­ferent things,” explains Mittag. “Instead of craft brewers taking [busi­ness] from bigger brewers or international brewers, they’re taking from each other.

“They’re hunting in the same place. If you want to be successful and grow, you have to learn to hunt in places that aren’t over-hunted.”

The way it was

Try to imagine how much more competitive it would have been in the 19th century. Jordan St. John and Alan McLeod’s new book, Ontario Beer: A Heady History Of Brewing From The Great Lakes To Hudson Bay ($21.99, History Press), tells of breweries operating side by side near Trinity Bellwoods Park. Three more were within stumbling distance of one another in Corktown, several others in Rosedale Valley and the area we now call downtown. Toronto’s population at the time was approximately 80,000.

To the east, Kingston’s 136 licensed establishments vied for the affections of fewer than 9,000 residents. In London, meanwhile, Labatt was out­pacing its competitors, building an empire that continued to add staff even through Prohibition. Its India Pale Ale famously won the gold medal at the 1876 World’s Fair in Philadelphia and would remain the brewery’s flagship brand until the 1950s.

But as larger brewers like Labatt gained access to better distribution, first through railways and later highways, local breweries in smaller centres couldn’t compete with the prestige (and presumably better quality) of the bigger, more mechanized ones. By 1958, Ontario had just five producers.

It wasn’t until the 1984, when Jim Brickman

started Brick Brewing in Waterloo, that new Ontario breweries started popping up again. Upper Canada, Wellington County, Great Lakes and Amsterdam followed in the next few of years, and despite some stagnation in the 90s, the local scene has grown impressively ever since.

The way it will be

Although the industry continues to grow, some believe a craft beer cull is coming. With a new generation of beer snobs posting blogs and barking opinions at anyone who’ll listen, drink­ ers suddenly have better information and expect more from each pour.

“At some point consumers are going to get tired of all things new all the time,” says Mittag.

“The evolution of beer has been about consis­ tency and quality and something you know you can count on every time, rather than opening a cap and getting a surprise. The brewers who are going to be successful over the next 10, 15, 20 years are going to be the ones who produce balance, consistency and quality every day, day in, day out, and not 100,000 different varieties.”

The head brewer at Side Launch, who has no interest in cutting deals, is counting on it. “If you stick to your guns,” declares Hancock, “you can stand on the quality of your beer. That, and your honour.”

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Label art

These days it’s not only the beer that’s beautiful – the labels on the bottles have their own creative pedigree. Two breweries give us the inside scoop on their inspirations. By SARAH PARNIAK

great lakes brewery Hanging around in bars with your sketchbook has its payoffs. At least it did for Garnett Gerry, the artist behind the wacky label personalities at Etobicoke’s Great Lakes Brewery.

GLB, just voted Canadian Brewing Awards’ brewery of the year for the second consecutive year, was planning a special series of labels to commemorate its 25th anniversary two winters ago and settled on a pared-down, classed-up wine look.

But Fabian Skidmore, manager at the Only Café and GLB’s graphic designer, thought the entire brand could use revitalization.

“I was pushing for years to rebrand, because I felt the label wasn’t representing the amazing liquid inside,” says Skidmore. By the time the brewery’s 25th anniversary rolled around, “the liquid had definitely surpassed the design,” he laughs.

Skidmore mentioned his marketing mission to Gerry, a regular at the Only rarely spotted without his sketchbook. Gerry showed up the next day with a stack of sketches, and that was that.

Speedy delivery is Gerry’s forte. Often, he nails a label on his first attempt. His initial drawings for Lake Effect IPA, Beard Of Zeus IPL and Saison Du Pump pumpkin saison all made it onto GLB bottles.

Though the process behind the art is a team effort that starts with brewmaster Mike Lackey’s tasty beer du jour, which is generally named over pints with the team (sales and community manager Troy Burtch, David Bieman, sales rep and branding, and Skidmore), Gerry summons and executes most of the imagery.

“Let the creative be creative,” shrugs Burtch, a fitting mantra for a brewery as innovative as Great Lakes.

Many of GLB’s labels are based on characters Gerry’s been sketching forever: Lake Effect’s wizened boatman, and burly bearded lumberjack Gordie Levesque, who adorns recently rebranded staple Canuck Pale Ale. Gerry, who’s only 27 and completely selftaught, never dreamed he’d become a professional artist – for one of Canada’s best breweries, no less.

“Drawing was always something I did be-

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cause I liked it, because it mellowed me out,” he said. He never thought twice about his relaxing hobby until friends started pointing out his talent.

He’s constantly sketching, finishing work during his lunch break (his day job is in construction) and while seated at the bar. When I beg for a quick portrait, he speedily produces a good likeness.

Lately, fans have been stopping him on the street, which blows his mind.

“This is something I do half-naked and drunk in my room,” he says. His eruption of laughter prevents him from elaborating, but I’m pretty sure he’s only half-joking.

GLB’s beers run the gamut of styles, but playfulness is the common ingredient in all its label art. Gerry helps bring the beers to life, giving them faces, personalities and, most importantly, a sense of humour.

My Bitter Wife IPA bears the mug of Carrie Nation, hatchet-wielding leader of the preProhibition Women’s Christian Temperance Union. For recent Tank Ten release Apocalypse Later, John A. Macdonald is depicted atop a beaver, fighting Gordie the lumberjack with a hockey stick.

Gerry’s work promotes the fun side of craft brew, something we can all drink to. Asked whether a laid-back, playful approach is essential to the GLB philiosophy, Skidmore drops a quote from Ron Keefe, the founder and original head brewer of T.O. institution the Granite: “Relax, guys, it’s just beer.”

3 drinks@nowtoronto.com | @s_parns

Garnett Gerry (left) and Fabian Skidmore celebrate their labels.

Label designer Garnett Gerry says he’s a compulsive drawer.

“I was pushing for years to rebrand because I felt that the label wasn’t representing the amazing liquid inside.”

Fabian Skidmore

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Collective Arts Collective Arts, launched last October, has been sending ripples through both the craft beer community and the local art scene.

Founders Matt Johnston and Bob Russell met while working at Hop City Brewing. Bored by one-dimensional ventures, they brainstormed their own concept in the interest of supporting their shared passions, and Collective Arts was born.

Johnston describes himself and Russell as creative junkies with a deep-seated love of music, the arts and all things craft-brewed.

“Combine this with our absolute disdain for the status quo and you have the ingredients that led to the birth of Collective Arts. We believe the art of brewing and the talents of artists are a natural fit. Creativity, curiosity, discovery and celebration are common to both pursuits.

Collective Arts aims to make inspired brews and support emerging artists through the natural sociability of craft beer,” says Johnston.

The bottles they produce are quite literally pieces of art showcasing music, film, words and visuals by Canadian and international artists.

Each exclusive series, including 70 to 90 labels, lasts only a few months. Series Three is slated for release in July.

The process for selecting the artists whose work is featured on labels is a complex one.

“We conduct a global call for art and music four times a year,” Johnston explains. “We then curate all the amazing submissions down to a manageable number of labels for each series.

For Series Three, we were overwhelmed by over 1,200 amazing submissions from around the world.”

To assist in the huge task, they’ve recruited six industry leaders: John St. creative director Stephen Jurisic, cultural entrepreneur and artist Fred Caron, multimedia/music journalist Errol Nazareth, Map & Co principal/Spazio Gallery partner Poet Farrell, Indie88 program director Adam Thompson and Audio Blood CEO/founder Sari Delmar.

Series Three includes over 70 pieces of art and music. “Each selected artist receives a payment from Collective Arts along with a commemorative bottle,” Johnston says. “In addition to featuring the artists on the labels, we also

support and promote them online and through our events. In a sense, this all ties in to what we believe to be the world’s most refreshing art and music gallery.”

Through partner Blippar, an image-recognition and augmented reality platform, you can access Collective Arts’ music, videos and artist info with just a quick scan.

“We wanted a technology partner to help drinkers engage with the artists on our labels on an interactive and intimate level,” Johnston says.

Labels have Blippar technology that links to interactive profiles of artists when scanned on smartphones with the Blippar app. Beer coasters also feature artists and are accessible via the app.

But Collective Arts brew is much more than a series of stimulating labels. The beer is produced at Nickel Brook by brewmaster Ryan Morrow. Flagship beer Rhyme & Reason just won gold in the North American Pale Ale category at the 2014 Canadian Brewing Awards.

In order to showcase Morrow’s obvious talent and explore even more exciting territory, the next logical step is expansion.

“We have so many things we want to do, but first we need to increase our brewing capacity. To do this, we’re building a brewery in Hamilton in partnership with Nickel Brook. It’ll be called Arts & Science,” Johnston reveals.

They chose Hamilton because of its evolving creative scene, Johnston explains. The new brewery should be operating by the end of 2014 – big strides for a company that ran its first call for submissions before it had a flagship beer.

“Before we brewed our first case, there were a lot of skeptics. It’s not like we did any research. We just said, ‘Boring is boring – let’s do something that inspires us and others,’” Johnston says.

“Luckily, we didn’t listen to the skeptics, and both artists and drinkers appreciate the passion we put into the art and the beer.”

3 drinks@nowtoronto.com | @s_parns

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Group think drink More and more brewers are collaborating with other brewmeisters, bars and artists to create uniquely delicious beers By SARAH PARNIAK

W

ith Toronto in the midst of a bona fide beer boom, public demand for unique local brews has never been stronger. The province is home to almost 200 craft breweries taking a passionate stand against bland, soulless beer – and two (or three) sets of hands are often better than one.

Over the past few years, the creative minds and skilled hands within the craft community have joined forces to produce some of Ontario’s most innovative and memorable beers yet. But while the ultimate goal may be a pint of something special, the benefits of collaborative brewing extend far beyond consumer satisfaction.

Founder Steve Beauchesne and brewmaster Matt O’Hara of Beau’s All Natural Brewing Co. outside Ottawa have done a number of high-profile collaborations since Beau’s launched seven years ago this past Canada Day. Their initial partnership was with the fabled Dutch De Koningshoeven (aka La Trappe), one of eight producing Trappist breweries worldwide, an experience that paved the way for future projects. Since then, Team Beau’s has worked with world-class indie breweries like Quebec’s Trou du Diable, Seattle’s Elysian and Anders Kissmeyer of Denmark’s Nørrebro Bryghus.

Their first collab with Kissmeyer was a complex Abbey Tripel called Venskab (the Danish word for friendship), bottled testament to the personal relationships that spark and sustain the craft beer world. (Beau’s second beer with Kissmeyer, a Nordic pale ale, is currently available at the LCBO).

Collaborations, just like beer-focused festivals and events, help galvanize the local community and give brewers the chance to network and share information with peers further afield.

Beau’s B-Side label (which includes the Nordic PA) champions small international breweries by making and distributing their product locally, something that the combination of shallow pockets and provincial red tape would otherwise prevent. Think of it as full-disclosure contract brewing for a noble cause.

Supporting community and cultivating creativity are the purpose of brewing together, it seems.

“I really like the social aspect of collaboration, the chance to travel to another brewer’s base or play host here,” says O’Hara. “To me, a good brew buddy is someone who wants to share knowledge, likes creative input and enjoys camaraderie.”

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Besides allowing brewers to do what they love with like-minded pals and pros, joint projects are generally limited releases brewed in small batches, which ups their viability and opens opportunities to experiment.

“As much as collaborating is an excuse to hang out and have some fun, quite often it’s also an excuse to try something new without the usual amount of pressure,” says Beauchesne, who launched Beau’s with his father, Tim. With loosened pecuniary restraints, brewers feel free to push boundaries and produce brand new beers, sometimes achieving new levels of quality that benefit the whole industry.

Iain McOustra, brewmaster at Toronto’s Amsterdam, and Mike Lackey, brewmaster at Etobicoke’s Great Lakes Brewery (which just won its second consecutive Canadian Brewery of the Year award), make experimental one-offs together often. Their second large-scale brew, Ezra, a tart and funky farmhouse ale with brett (Brettanomyces yeast) aged in local cider barrels from Spirit Tree, was just released by the LCBO. Barrel-aged beers have been trending for a while, but Ezra is the first to use local cider casks.

“I have a lot of respect for [Lackey] as a brewer. He’s certainly not afraid of trying new techniques and styles,” says McOustra. “I think we have a lot of similarities, but we have different levels of experience and different palates as well.”

McOustra adds that collaborations breed fresh perspectives, enabling brewers to bounce ideas off each other and churn out truly unique, quality product.

Speaking of new angles, not all brew unions happen between the established heads of award-winning breweries.

Rob Pingitore, owner of Bar Hop, had little brewing experience when he opened his popular King West beer bar two summers ago. Matt Bod, Bar Hop’s knowledgeable bartender, had tinkered with some “no good” homebrew batches, but that was about it.

They’ve since collaborated with some of the city’s best, from Great Lakes and Amsterdam to popular brew pubs Bellwoods and Indie Ale House, putting Bar Hop on the map for its high-turnover list of exclusive and one-off Bar Hop's Matt Bod prepares guavas at Great Lakes Brewery for Gilligan Is Still Dead.

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taps. (They took last year's best draught list honours at ­Ontario’s Golden Tap Awards).

“It makes us more real in a way,” Pingitore says of Bar Hop’s collaborative ventures. “We want to be involved to show we’re more than tap jockeys.”

“It’s a great learning experience as well,” Bod adds. “At the end of the day, it’s [the brewers’] expertise that enables us to turn an idea into reality.”

And, Pingitore notes, some of the wackiest concepts turn out surprisingly well. Great Lakes x Bar Hop’s Gilligan Is Still Dead (a guava saison with brett) and Amsterdam x Bar Hop’s Social Smoker, a Belgian-style session ale smoked with Chardonnay trunks harvested from Thirty Mile, will both make encore appearances this summer.

Sometimes an open mind and unfettered ­enthusiasm yield the best results. As part of their Pro-Am series, Beau’s Burnt Rock Vanilla Porter was produced in conjunction with award-winning home brewer Patrick Boisvenue. Prep involved enlisting a team to handscrape ­vanilla pods for two days just to stay true to the original recipe.

“These are incredibly inspired non-professional brewers. The enthusiasm and excitement they bring to a project is phenomenal,”

Matt basile

Beaus co-founders Steve (left) and Tim Beauchesne and brewmaster Matt O’Hara have worked with Tom Green and Margaret ­Atwood.

says Beauchesne. “Working with home brewers forces [professionals] to remember that the easiest way isn’t al­ways the best.”

The challenges of collaborating aren’t limited to scaling issues and finicky ingredients. Beau’s has also worked with ­fa­mous Canadians like Tom Green and Mar­ga­ret Atwood – who have zero brew­ing experience.

What’s most important in those cases, Beauchesne stresses, is the pre­servation of au­ thenticity. The Tom Green milk stout took a year from inception to completion.

MaddAddamites Noo Broo, the just-released summer gruit (a mixture of bitter herbs) inspired by the foraging references in Atwood’s MaddAddam trilogy, was an involved process that began with brewing and tasting herbal teas and tinctures from Atwood's home garden and ended with the Canadian icon herself writing the tasting notes on the back of the bottle.

The breadth of vision, dedication and hard fucking work that goes into our local collaborations – and craft brewing on a macro scale – are astounding. And it’s all for the love of great beer.

“I think this is a reaction to years of boring beers with boring names,” Pingitore muses.

“With these creatively named crazy beers we want to break the mould and create something that’s our own.”

Together, of course.

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Session beers of summer Good news for beer lovers: flavourful and easy are becoming less mutually exclusive. These low-impact, locally brewed beers won't rob you of your reason and kick your ass. Cheers to that!

By sarah parniak

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KBCo Watermelon Wheat Collective Arts Rating NNN Saint of ­Circumstance Why Two things that define my Toronto summers (besides professional development in the form of patio drinking): long ambles around the Market and eating myself sick on watermelon. Admittedly, these acts sometimes occur simultaneously. Kensington Brewing Company’s liquid ode to the Market’s famous fruit stands is subtly spiked with everyone’s favourite muggy weather melon.

A refreshing choice for fans of unique wheat brews that won’t turn your summer strolls into ­stumbles.

4.5% ABV Price 473 ml/$2.95 Availability The Beer Store (sorry, but it’s better than nothing)

Rating NNN Why Saint of Circumstance is best on a scorching day when it can fulfill its purpose as a painless chain-drinkable summer brew with inviting citrus aromas. Those worshipping at the high altar of flavour might find Saint of Circumstance too thin on the finish, but I definitely wouldn’t boot it out of my fridge for being too easy. Since you’re hitting the LCBO, might as well snatch a pack of Collective Arts’ tasty Rhyme And Reason APA, too.

4.7%ABV Price 6 x 355 ml/$12.95 (on sale till July 20) Availability LCBO 379966

ñBellwoods

Leftfield Sunlight Park

Wizard Wolf

Rating NNNN Why A whole city’s worth of beer geeks are yammering about Bellwoods for good reason – the Ossington brew pub is gloriously devoted to full-flavour beers. It’s impossible to talk T.O. session beers without someone – more accurately everyone – bringing up this crisp, citrusy and tropical dryhopped session ale. Plan a regular pilgrimage to the Bellwoods Bottle Shop (open 11 am to 11 pm daily), and don’t forget your most obnoxiously oversized backpack – this is the kind of beer you want in your fridge for the emergency of everyday life.

4.8% ABV Price 500 ml/$4.50 Availability At the Bellwoods Bottle Shop, on tap at the brew pub and around town.

Rating NNN Why I’ve been drooling over Leftfield’s draft picks since falling for its silky E ­ ephus Oatmeal Brown Ale. Leftfield’s latest, a session saison brewed with the zest of organic grapefruits, is an easygoing option for sun-soaked Sundays… or any day, really. Like all of Leftfield’s products, this one’s name is a baseball reference: Sunlight Park was Toronto’s first professional baseball stadium. Grapefruit can do no wrong to my tongue, and this lovely summer brew gets brownie points for gracefully integrating one of my top five fruits.

Availability On tap at Bar Hop, Bar Volo, Get Well, the Only and other ­stellar beer-centric ­establishments, or check out Leftfield at upcoming summer beer festivals and events.

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Side Launch Wheat ñ Rating NNNN

ñGreat Lakes Brewery Chill Winston Grisette

Why Though this is old news to true brew fans, much-loved local legend Denison’s Weissbier has found new life as Side Launch Wheat. Michael Hancock, founding brewer at Denison’s, teamed up with Collingwood’s new Side Launch to rebrand his Hefeweizen. Hazy summer days are best enjoyed with a hazy summer beer, so don’t play shy with the spiffy new can – it contains the same old lemonand clove-laced goodness. Okay, it’s on the stiff side for a session beer, but it’s a drinkable classic that deserves lots of summer love.

5.3% ABV Price 473 ml/$2.70 Availability LCBO 385674

Rating NNNN Why Like most of GLB’s exclusive Tank 10 releases, Chill Winston won’t last long. But while he’s loafing around, best soak up this laid-back brew on a patio, beach, boat, hammock or rooftop – anywhere in the sun. Packing substantial subtleties (tart citrus, a touch of funk) considering its modest alcohol content (3.8%), this brew isn’t called Chill for nothing. So kick back, relax and refresh with Winston; spliff pairing recommended but not requisite.

Availability At the GLB shop (30 Queen Elizabeth) while it lasts; around town where fine draught is sold

Muskoka Detour ñ Rating NNNN

ñNickel Brook Naughty

Why The first time I wrote about Muskoka Detour, I predicted I’d be swilling more than a few this summer, and my foresight hasn’t failed me yet. Crisp and quenching, with hefty flavour and complexity, considering its stunted ABV, Detour is a quintessential cottage brew. Best enjoyed in a Muskoka chair near an open body of water. Don’t forget to keep your cooler within arm’s reach – you can put away six without doing yourself much damage.

4.3% ABV Price 6 x 355 ml/$13.65 Availability LCBO 375345

SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 13 ABOARD THE RIVER GAMBLER

Neighbour American Pale

Rating NNNN Why Naughty Neighbour’s resiny bouquet usually doesn’t introduce a beer under 5% ABV. Hop heads can work their way through a sixer without passing out in a lawn chair and waking up two hours later with a redder neck and drier mouth than [insert name of despicable political figure]. Send a flowery thank you to Nickel Brook for presenting the sole justifiable instance when you can hop in bed with your tasty neighbour.

4.9% ABV Price 6 x 355 ml/$12.75 Availability LCBO 339416

Founded in 1747, PALM Breweries is Belgium’s largest, independent, family-owned craft brewer.

$12.80 6x330ml LCBO#142083

Ñ

= Critics’ Pick NNNNN Ambrosial NNNN Dangerously drinkable NNN Palate pleaser NN Sensory snooze N Tongue trauma

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The Heart of Cabbagetown

In The Heart of Cabbagetown

2 1 Local Taps Over 120 Craft Beers Hand Pumped Cask Conditioned Ale

T.O.’s Top 20

Beer Bars CHOSEN BY

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221 Carlton St. E. StoutIrishPub.ca

Rebeer glasses by Artech Studio ($22, Distill Gallery, 24 Tank House, 416-304-0033, distillgallery.com)

CELEBRATING 20 YEARS

Legal Age 19+. Proper ID Required. No Children or Pets. Rain or Shine. Please Enjoy Responsibly.

Grapefruit Honey Ale beer-making kit ($55, BYOB Cocktail Emporium)

The Simpsons Duffman caped pint glass ($13.48, KegWorks)

Sour Puss Freaker sleeve ($12, BYOB Cocktail Emporium, 972 Queen West, 416-858-2932, byobto.com)

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