WILD COAST

FORTHE FAMILY 1Trennerys

When Ipull up at thereceptionoffice, aguestin aToyotaFortunerstaresatmyMahindraScorpio. “Lookslikeyoualsocamepreparedfordirtroads. When Icamehereonmymotorbike fiveyears ago,allthe roads were dirt,”hesays alittleglumly.

Thesedays,the roadfrom thepontoverthe Kei Riveristarred, whichmakesiteveneasierto stay at Trennerys.

Thehotelisaimed at families. It has trampolines,playgrounds,a tenniscourtanda swimming pool.Ifyou want to gohave adrink inthebar,doa hikeorgoon aboatcruise, you canbook achildminder(fromR80perhour for up to twokids)andthere’salso adedicated kiddies’room.

Theloungearea is acomfyplace to read or have acoffee andthereare communalbraai facilitiesif youdon’t want to eatinthe restaurant. You’llenjoyyourstaysomuchyou’ll consider movinghere! Facilities: Thecampsitehas10standswithshade, powerpointsand ablutionfacilities.There are tworondavelsand15chaletsthatsleep two peopleeach.The19familychaletssleep four peopleeach. Niggles? Thecampingstandsdon’t have their ownbraaifacilities. Rates: Camping R295peradult; R110 perchild aged4 –12;R85per childunder4. Chalets from R1085 peradult,allmealsincluded;half-price forkids aged4 –12;R130perchildunder4.The restaurantservesaseafood buffetonSaturday nights:R150perperson. Howtogetthere? Thehotelis about 6kmnorth of KeiMouth–takethepontovertheKei River (R100per vehicle). Contact: 047498 0004; trennerys.co.za

PEACEANDQUIET 2TranskeiBeachCottage

Max, abigbullmastiffwiththetemperament of aMaltesepoodle,greetsmeatthegate.Hemight thinkthat he owns theplace,but BarrySahdis actuallyin charge.Hegrewupinthearea and speaksbetterisiXhosathan IdoEnglish.

Barryspots my guitarinthebackof myvehicle and halfan hourlaterwe’re gatheredinhishouse withhisgirlfriend Martie Botha,each of uswitha glass of whiskeyand avetkoek.I’m playingguitar andBarry isbehindthepiano.Onhis lapisTictoc, asmallJack Russell, nowfastasleep.

There’sabout20m oflawnbetweenthefront doorof theBeach Cottage andthe beachitself. Youcanfishfromthelawnatspring tide.

There’snoshophere,butthereisabig vegetablegardenwhere guestscanharvest spinach,tomatoesandlettuce.

Youwon’t have to compete withother beachgoersforthe bestpatchofsand. Walk down to thewaterandlookfortheholein the rocksthat fillsupwiththetide. “It’sournatural jacuzzi,”saysBarry.

Barryisa goodguy to know.“If yourun into trouble,givemea call,” hesayswhenIget ready to hittheroadagain.“Nomatterwhere youare,I’ll know aforemanwhoknows aforemanwhocan help you. We have goodpeoplearoundhere.” Facilities: Theaccommodationisno-frills.It’s asimple rondavelwith adoublebedandtwo bunkbeds inside.Thebathroom andkitchen are in aseparateroomnextdoor.Barry’shouseis behindthe rondavel. During my visit, Barrywas busybuilding acottage behindthe rondavel– it shouldbecompleted by December2021. Niggles? Cebeis atinysettlement withonlynine plots,butthe houses arequiteclosetogether. TranskeiBeach Cottageisprivate–ahighfence separates thehouse fromitsneighbour,butitalso obstructsyourview ofthe coastline.Theproximity ofthebeach makesupforit. Rates: FromR1000per night. Howtoget there? Followthe tarroad to thevillageof Kentani.Fromthere,followthe Wavecrestdirtroadfor28 km until youreach theturn-off to Cebe. Contact: 0731430324

SOMETHING DIFFERENT 3 Wild Lubanzi

“In a hole in the ground there lived a hobbit…” At Wild Lubanzi you can stay in a unit straight out of JRR Tolkien’s famous story.

Indeed, this backpacker lodge has an otherworldly quality. The Hobbit House is built into a hill – a round front door completes the picture. The main house looks like the dream house I always drew as a child: Stairs, ladders and boardwalks connect various decks where daybeds, hammocks and swing chairs invite you to take an afternoon nap or relax with a sundowner.

Lizani Smith shows me around. She arrived as a backpacker seven years ago and now lives here. “Even when it’s quiet, it’s busy,” she says. “The construction work never stops.”

Dylan Massyn also came to Lubanzi as a guest and now works here permanently. If you live in such a remote spot, you have to be able to do a little of everything. He built the new restaurant himself and is also the cook.

If you don’t want to prepare your own meals in the communal kitchen, order a meal or food parcel from Dylan. Try the breakfast fry-up (R75), chicken wrap (R75) or Thai green curry (R95). Even if you don’t stay here, you can order food ( 084 344 0039). Facilities: The Hobbit House sleeps three people – there’s a double bed and a daybed. This is the only accommodation option with an en suite bathroom.

There are three tents on decks – Milkwood, Silver Oak and Strelitzia – that sleep three people each. The Spekboom tent sleeps two people. The High Tide Dorm sleeps eight people, and you can also camp here.

All these accommodation options share a communal kitchen and bathrooms in the main house, and they all have views of Lubanzi Beach. Hole-in-the-Wall is a 5 km walk away. Niggles? One of the benefits of staying on a hill is the views. One of the drawbacks is that you have to walk up a hill when you want to go to the bathroom! Rates: Camping R80 per person. High Tide Dorm R145 per person. Tents from R380 per night for two people – 40% discount if you stay for longer than a week. The Hobbit House from R650 per night for two people – 25% discount if you stay longer than a week. The discounts are only for low season. How to get there? Take the Coffee Bay offramp from the N2. Drive 50 km (fill your tank at Mqanduli; it’s the last filling station). Turn right at the sign to the Zithulele Hospital at Dube village. After 17 km, turn right to Lubanzi. The last 5 km are along a dirt road. Contact: 078 530 8997; wildlubanzi.co.za

FOR THE FAMILY 4 Hole in the Wall Hotel & Holiday Village

You can’t stay any closer to the Wild Coast’s most famous landmark, Hole-in-the-Wall. It’s only 1 km away.

The hotel is also close to Coffee Bay, and what you lose in terms of remote location, you gain in luxuries you won’t find in the bundu: a restaurant, two bars, the La Vita spa…

As the name suggests, it feels more like a village than a hotel. The chalets and rondavels are spread across the premises. You can choose whether you want to stay on the hill with a view, or near the trees and the beach.

It’s great for families: There’s a swimming pool, lawns, a playground and an activity club for the kids.

On more isolated stretches of the Wild Coast, you don’t have to lock your door. Here, however, you have to be a little more careful. The hotel is fenced, with guards at every entrance. They keep the chancers out and the kids in! Facilities: There’s a range of accommodation options, including rondavels and self-catering units that sleep 2 – 8 people. There are also backpacker-style en suite double rooms that share a communal kitchen. Niggles? Some of the facilities look a little tired, but they were renovating the restaurant at the time of my visit. There are also “guides” that pester you outside the hotel, trying to convince you that you’ll get lost on the way to Hole-in-the-Wall. You won’t – it’s just around the corner. Rates: Backpacker double room from R270 per night. Rondavel (sleeps two) from R540. Chalets from R675 per night for two people to R2 520 for eight people. How to get there? The hotel is about 9 km south of Coffee Bay. Contact: 047 575 0009; firstgroup-sa.co.za/hole-in-the-wall

FORTHEINTROVERT 6SeaviewCottage

This cottageishighon ahill,with aviewofthe wavesandtheMthatha Riverestuaryinthe distance.Theverandaissheltered –youcanenjoy thatviewevenwhenthewindpicksup.Thebeach lookslikeit’s far away,butit’s only a700 mwalkor a1,2 km drive. And youhaveyour owngarden!

Owner Mark Hullettbuiltthe cottagehimself. “A lotoftheprofitgoes towardsmaintenance,” hesays.“Butaslongasguestsleave herefeeling peacefulandcalm,andwiththe knowledgethat placeslikethisstillexist,I’m happy.”

Caretaker Donaldlivesnearby andwillbeon handif youneedhelp.Heknowsthebestfishing spotsandwhereyoucanfindfreshseafood. Facilities: It’s aself-cateringcottagewith two bedrooms, sleepingeightpeoplein total.There’s afullyequippedkitchenandabraai. Niggles? It’s noteasytofind! Addthis waypoint to your GPSbeforeyou leave:S31.94917 E29.17182.I travelledin a4x2 Mahindra Scorpio, buta 4x4is recommended. Rates: From R900 pernight. Howtoget there? Drivingfrom CoffeeBay towardsthe N2,turnrightafter1,2 km –it’sthe firstturn-offafteryoucrosstheNenga River outside town. Follow thisdirtroad for3,5 km and turnleft. Turn rightafter700m. SeaviewCottage is ontheleft, afteranother700 m. Contact: airbnb.com/rooms/20596501 FORTHE YOUNG AT HEART 7MdumbiBackpackers

Being as remoteasMdumbicomeswithaprice. Earlyinthe evening Ihearaloudbangandthen thewholeplace goesdark.

Iask BonganiSpan at thereception desk whetherit’sloadshedding,but eventhatvague hopedisappearswhenIhearEskom’s holdmusic blaringfromhis cellphone…

Thepowerisstilldownwhen Ileave thenext morning.A herd ofcattle tookadvantageofthe darkness to break throughthe fenceduringthe night and Iwatchthembeingchasedoffbefore Idepart.

Buthavingnopowerisasmallpricetopayto seeoneof themostmagnificent beachesonthe Wild Coast. Facilities: Abackpackerlodge is nolonger aplace wheredreadlockedSwedesplay didgeridoountil 2am. Mostbackpackersonthe Wild Coastoffer privaterooms alongsidetheirdorm options. Mdumbi hasseveral rondavels withdormrooms (sleeping 3–13people),plus double rooms, familyroomsandtwin-sleepersafaritentsunder athatched awning.Thecampsite hasshade,and each standhas awoodenpartition between you and yourneighbour.Alltheaccommodation optionssharea communalablutionblock,lounge area,dininghalland kitchen.

If youwanttodoyourownthing,Mdumbi alsohasonefullyequipped self-catering house thatsleepssevenpeople.

There’sa playgroundinthe shapeofa ship behindthebackpackers, wherethe kids canburn off their energy.Thisisalsowhereyou’llfindthe best cellphone reception,andthe bestview of the coastline. Niggles? Thecampingstandsaresmall.They’re suitable fortents,butitwillbea squeeze with acaravan… Rates: CampingR115perperson.Dormroom R195perperson. Safari tent R400pernightfor twopeople. Double rondavelR420 pernight fortwo people.Family rondavelR590pernight forthreepeople. Self-catering house R2 000 pernight. Howtoget there? From theN2, followthe road to CoffeeBay for70kmand turn leftontothe Umdumbi dirt road.Drive 10 km andturnrightat the Mdumbi Backpackerssign.Theestablishment isabout 8kmfurtheralongthis road. Contact: 0834611834; mdumbi.co.za

FOR THE GREENIES 8 Swell Eco Lodge

The rust-brown rondavels of this lodge overlook the hills of the Mngcibe settlement, and the Indian Ocean.

Owner Justin Sanders has been holidaying on the Wild Coast since he was 16 years old. In 1998, he visited the village of Mdumbi and explored the other side of the Mdumbi River.

“I loved how remote it was, and the unique view over the Mdumbi estuary,” he says.“I originally came here to surf and fish, but I fell in love with the landscape and the people.”

Three years later, with the blessing of the local community, he bought a piece of land. And in 2013, Swell opened its doors.

Justin and his wife Lee-Ann wanted to make the lodge as environmentally friendly as possible. Waste management is especially important in such a remote area. All the rubbish produced by the lodge is sorted and reused where possible, and the rest is sent to Mthatha to be recycled.

“Guests can help themselves to spinach, peppers and carrots in our vegetable garden,” Justin says.

The lodge is only 1 km from the beach, and it has an inviting swimming pool with a deck overlooking the ocean.

“We’re part of the community,” Justin adds. “Swell is a place where you get to experience the culture of the Wild Coast.” Facilities: The two en suite rondavels each sleep two people and share a communal kitchen. The two duplex rondavels each have two en suite double rooms and share a communal kitchen. The family rondavel has two bedrooms (one is a loft), a bathroom and a kitchen – there’s also a sleeper couch for two people in the living area. Niggles? The condition of the road can vary greatly. Call beforehand to check whether it’s traversable. Rates: En suite rondavel from R450 per person sharing. Duplex rondavel from R500 per person sharing. Family rondavel from R2 000 per night for up to six people (four adults). How to get there? From the N2, follow the road to Coffee Bay for 70 km and turn left onto the Umdumbi dirt road. Turn right after 17 km and drive 7 km to Swell Eco Lodge. Contact: 084 943 3947; swellecolodge.com

PITCH YOUR TENT 9 Cremorne Estate

This resort is under high cliffs next to the Mzimvubu River, about a 10-minute drive from Port St Johns. PSJ is a hive of activity during peak seasons, when tourists and locals flock to the shops, but Cremorne remains peaceful. I’m staying in one of the Fisherman’s Cottages – basically an upscale Wendy house and when a storm arrives at midnight, it feels as if the cabin is swaying with every gust of wind!

The next morning, I expect to open my door to total devastation, but every leaf is in its place and a rowboat with a fisherman floats past on the quiet river. Bliss.

If you like fishing, there’s a slipway where you can launch your boat, or just cast a line close to your camping stand.

No nibble? Order seafood at the à la carte restaurant and bar.

Before you know it, your holiday will be over and you didn’t even need to go into town once! Facilities: In the campsite, each stand has a power point and a row of bushes to separate you from your neighbour. Stand #5 has the most shade, plus a small thatched awning. The Fisherman’s Cottages are an affordable option – small, basic thatched cabins with two bunk beds inside, sharing a communal ablution block with the campers. There are also self-catering cottages and B&B double rooms available. A lawn separates the cottages from the camping stands close to the water. Niggles? Sharks occur in the river mouth. Don’t swim in the river – rather have a dip in the swimming pool. Rates: Camping R290 per person. Fisherman’s Cottages from R430 per person. Self-catering R2 320 per night for two people. B&B R1 295 per person. How to get there? The resort is north of the Mzimvubu River before you enter Port St Johns on the R61. Turn onto the Ferry Point dirt road – Cremorne is on the right after 1 km. It’s tar for most of the way – only the last kilometre is dirt. You can tow your caravan there, no problem. Contact: 047 564 1110; cremorne.co.za

4X4 ONLY

BRING YOUR FRIENDS 10 Manteku Camp

Pondo Beach Camps manage three tented camps between Port Edward and Port St Johns: Msikaba, Luphuthana and Manteku. The three camps are also overnight spots on the Pondo Slackpacking Trail. When the camps aren’t occupied by hikers, you can book them for a laid-back stay.

Manteku has 12 safari tents in a coastal forest next to a bend in the Mzintlava River, near its mouth. When I arrive, the wind is pumping. On the beach, it feels like my legs are being sandblasted, but back at camp it’s so protected there’s barely a breeze next to the river.

Manteku offers the best of the Wild Coast: a pristine beach that you’ll only share with a few people (and some cows) even at the height of peak season. Facilities: Each safari tent sleeps two people – the camp has space for 24 people in total. The en suite tents are built on a deck under a roof and are sheltered. The tents share a communal braai area and kitchen. The camp is remote, so bring everything you’ll need. The friendly caretaker, Andrew Mavela, keeps an eye on things and is very helpful. Niggles? The last 200 m to the tented camp are steep and rocky. Don’t drive this stretch if you don’t have a 4x4. If you’re worried, there’s safe parking on top of the hill for R50 per day. From there, it’s about a 500 m to camp. Rates: R390 per adult sharing; R275 per child under 12; free for children under 6. You can also book the entire tented camp for R7 800 per night (minimum two nights). During peak season, the camp can only be booked in its entirety: R8 760 per night, for a minimum of five nights. How to get there? Follow the R61 from The Gates in Port St Johns to Lusikisiki, drive 22 km and turn right at the Matane sign. From there, it’s 23 km along a dirt road to Manteku Camp. Contact: 031 536 8005; pondobeachcamps.co.za