WEST COAST

IN OTHER WORDS

MELDENE ROBINSON Crayfish Wharf, Paternoster “A visit to the Cape Columbine Nature Reserve is a must. The lighthouse is beautiful.”

HUGOLINA HICKMAN Timeless Treasures, Dwarskersbos “My love for Dwarskersbos began in the late 1950s, when my family would camp here during the holidays. The beaches are ideal for swimming – beautiful, clean and safe!”

RASHID SAKAMA Fork West Farm “I moved here from Malawi in 2014. The West Coast is not only beautiful, but its people are warm and friendly.”

Weskus Quarry on Steenbokfontein Sea Farm, Lambert’s Bay

Steenbokfontein Sea Farm is a vast and beautiful potato farm 9 km south of the harbour town of Lambert’s Bay. It’s home to the Burger family and has been for the past six generations.

The current “Farmer Burger” at the helm is Albert. His wife Carol is warm and exuberant, often roaring past in a 4x4 and plying you with local food and drink: chops from Pietie se Vleishuis; fresh farm bread; goat’s cheese from Betty Bok; and potatoes from their own harvest.

To get to Weskus Quarry (one of many accommodation options on the farm), you drive over the Sishen-Saldanha railway line and up a rocky outcrop to where the cabins await.

As the name suggests, the cabins are in an old quarry – the same one that supplied the stone to build the Lambert’s Bay harbour. But what the name doesn’t tell you is how utterly magnificent it is.

There are two hokkies, as Carol calls them, each clinging to the steep side of the outcrop, with a view over the farm and miles of ocean. Each unit sleeps two people in snug quarters and has a small seating area in front to enjoy the view. The decor and amenities are earthy and stylish. There’s also a caravan permanently parked in the quarry. The quarry units share a kitchen and bathrooms (both also built against the rock face) so it’s a great place to book for a weekend with friends.

For those interested in a more secluded escape, there are two more accommodation options nearby: Weskus Hokkie, a one-bedroom beach shack that sleeps two; and Weskus Grotjie, another two-sleeper built into a rock face.

“I wanted to incorporate nature into everything,”says Carol, who tells the story of the farm with passion. Steenbokfontein’s original farmhouse was built in 1864 and was converted into a restaurant, Die Plaaskombuis, by Albert’s late mother, Kitta. “Ma Kitta” is also responsible for building the labyrinth below the quarry (pictured, right). After her passing on Valentine’s Day in 2021, the Burgers encourage guests to walk it in her memory. Steenbokfontein Caves are a short walk from the quarry and contain rock paintings at least 8 000 years old. They depict giant buffalo, eland, elephant and lion – animals that no longer roam this part of the world. Other activities include flower tours on a tractor during spring, abseiling, rock climbing, surfing and braaiing on the beach. The Burgers’ daughters, Cara and Anika, will soon plant their own roots here. Cara is studying law and hopes to use her degree to protect the West Coast; Anika plans to take over her grandmother’s restaurant. They will be the seventh generation of Burgers to live on Steenbokfontein. Where? 9 km south of Lambert’s Bay, via the R365. Rates: Weskus Quarry from R750 per night; Grotjie from R950 per night; Hokkie from R950 per night. See their website for more. Minimum two-night stay, depending on the season. Contact: 083 458 1575 (Carol); westcoastwonders.co.za

The Berries, Elands Bay

“If something is ‘the berries’ it’s like saying it’s the bee’s knees or the cat’s whiskers in surfer slang,”says Gerry van Rensburg, owner of this bungalow in surf mecca, Elands Bay. Gerry lives in Kommetjie for most of the year, where he works as an architect, carpenter and builder, but he escapes to Elands as often as possible. He started building the house in 2007, after having owned the plot for a decade. “Most of it was built by my own hands, almost entirely from upcycled and salvaged materials and components,”he says. The rustic log bungalow has two bedrooms that sleep two people each, and a bunk room with two bunk beds (sleeping four). The bunks are separated from the lounge area by a curtain, which can be drawn for privacy, and there’s a large deck that looks out over Gerry’s indigenous garden and a fire pit. “The house was originally supplied in kit form by T&B Log Homes in Knysna. It was used as staff quarters at Groote Schuur Hospital back in the day,” Gerry explains. “I acquired it in 2006 while working on a home for one of my clients. I documented, dismantled and stored the house until it was practical to transport the components to Elands Bay. I rebuilt it there, albeit in an entirely different configuration.” Touches of Gerry’s creativity can be seen all over the property: He uses surfboard pieces and boat railings as finishes in the bathroom and has populated the garden with interesting finds like shells, anchors and buoys, which hang from the tree beside the fire pit. The Berries is a personal and inviting space. It smells like timber, fynbos and the sea breeze. There’s no Wi-Fi, but there is a shelf with great books, and a couch that gets just enough sun for that much-needed afternoon nap. Elands Bay has seen significant development over the past few years, but The Berries remains the kind of place where a family can gather to enjoy each other’s company – and where it’s still okay to walk around with sandy feet. Where? 8 Snoek Street, Elands Bay South Rates: From R1 700 per night, sleeps eight. Contact: 082 338 9609 (Gerry); gerry@sealevelstudio.co.za

Fork West Farm, Dwarskersbos

It’s difficult to appreciate the ocean’s vastness in a beach town filled with jolly holiday-goers, but that’s not the case when you stand on the dune in front of your tent on Fork West Farm.

The farm spans 40 km of coastline between Elands Bay and Dwarskersbos. The Atlantic meets pearly white sand and – for the duration of your stay – this seemingly endless beachfront is your personal playground.

Fork West Farm has been in the Uebel family for 33 years and is currently run by Reinhard and his wife Theresa. “We put up the first tent for our own use, but interest from friends and family grew and now we’re a three-tent facility,” Reinhard says with a laugh.

The three tents are: Fork North, Middle Fork and Fork South. Each sleeps two guests on a double bed and has an en suite bathroom with a shower and flush toilet. The tents have electricity and a kitchenette with all the essentials to rustle up a good meal.

To the front is a small deck that looks out on the dunes, and at the back is a private braai area sheltered from the wind. The tents are set snugly between the dunes and surrounded by kersbos and taaibos shrubs. If you wake up early and go sit on the deck, you’ll spot duiker and steenbok grazing furtively in the morning light.

A short 500 m walk over the dunes will deposit you right on the beach, where your only company will be seagulls and other birdlife, including cormorants, common terns and African black oystercatchers.

A long beach walk is a must during your stay. Reinhard reports seeing dolphins and the odd Cape fur seal playing in the waves.

Take a sundowner to the top of the dunes. No two sunsets are the same.

At night you’ll feel vibrations from the waves breaking on the beach as you lie in bed. You’d think it would be disconcerting, but rather it’s a reminder that Mother Earth is very much alive. Where? 28 km north of Dwarskersbos on the Dwarskersbos Road. Rates: R1 300 per night. Contact: 067 336 6862 (Theresa); westcoastluxurytents.co.za; Fork West Farm is pet-friendly

Tin Shack, St Helena Bay

High on a hill behind St Helena Bay sits the Tin Shack; a cabin built from used shipping containers on a smallholding owned by Bryan and Marna Williams. The interior is industrial chic meets country comfort. There are two identical en suite bedrooms (kitted with eco-toilets) separated by a large living and kitchen area. The living space leads to a deck with a wood-fired hot tub (bonus!), kettle braai and a hammock. Up here you’ll feel like a sentinel presiding over all you see – the view is that vast. On a clear day you can even see the Cederberg! In 2018, Marna and Bryan moved from Gauteng to St Helena Bay. They wanted to escape the rat race in Joburg and embrace a lifestyle more attuned with nature. Bryan is actually British and grew up in Cornwall. “Our dream was to be self-sustainable,” says Marna. It occurred to Bryan that the containers, which were originally intended for storage, would make the perfect “building blocks” for a house. “We loved the idea of repurposing available material,”says Marna. The couple currently lives in a container, which will become part of their own house, while creating their ideal set-up on the smallholding. Part of that set-up was Tin Shack. “We always planned to build a guest unit,”Marna continues. “After watching a few YouTube videos and researching container homes on the Internet, we realised that we could do the work ourselves. We’re both pretty handy. “Even on days when the wind blows and I wonder, ‘What on earth have we done?’ I look out over the bay and realise, there is no alternative for us. This is the way it was meant to be.” Where? 11 Vasco Da Gama Drive, St Helena Bay Rates: Monday to Thursday R1 350 per night for two people; Friday to Sunday R1 550 per night for two people. For both, the rate per extra guest is R250; plus R200 one-off cleaning fee. Minimum stay two nights. Contact: 076 442 3239 (Marna); the-tin-shack.business.site

Sea Shack, Paternoster

The answer to your bohemian dream of living on the beach is here. Sea Shack, in its pastel blue and sea-green hues, takes the small house trend and deposits it right on the shore of Cape Columbine Nature Reserve. There are 14 units, each of which sleeps two. Five are beachfront shacks; five are garden shacks and there are three wooden “tents”. There is also a family unit called SpongeBob, which sleeps two adults and can be fitted with a cot and a small child’s bed. Each shack is the brainchild of local artist, Dianne Heesom-Green. The camp is situated between Paternoster and Tietiesbaai in a small cove reminiscent of the Mediterranean Coast. All that exists between you and the ocean is a sandbar and a few tidal pools where you can search for starfish and other shy creatures in the shallows. You’ll have the run of the entire reserve during your stay. Wander the lonely coast for miles; take a dip if you’re brave enough; or marvel at the Cape Columbine Lighthouse – one of the first South African lighthouses spotted by ships coming from Europe. Back at camp, each shack is equipped with a queen-sized bed, shelves and linen. (Bring your own towels.) The tents come with two stretcher beds. All units are solar-powered with enough juice for lights and phone chargers, though hairdryers may prove a bit of a challenge. The kitchen and ablution blocks are shared. There are four gas-powered showers and five eco-toilets. Come unplug and sit around the campfire, savouring each sunset and the simple life beside the shore. Where? Cape Columbine Nature Reserve, Paternoster Rates: Shacks R850 per night; tents R550 per night; SpongeBob R950 per night. Contact: 079 820 6824 (Manerva); seashack.co.za

FOR THE ANNIVERSARY Namaqua Flower Camps, Namaqua National Park

Your day begins with a flask of boiling water dropped off outside your tent at 7 am. After reluctantly leaving your cosy bed (complete with an electric blanket) to retrieve it, you zip open the flap and take in the world outside.

It’s glorious. Fresh and untamed, with flowers dusting the hillside in neon orange, fuchsia and gentle lilac. Morning sun plays off the ocean and your lungs breathe wild, salty air.

Make no mistake. It’s chilly out there, but you don’t mind. After wrapping yourself in your warmest jacket, you pour a cup of plunger coffee and get comfortable in one of the camping chairs in front of your tent. It’s the start of another tough day in Africa…

Each spring, Chiefs Tented Camps set up two seasonal flower camps, Beach near the Groen River mouth and Skilpad, both in the Namaqua National Park.

The camps border pans full of daisies and vygies, which means you can enjoy the flowers at leisure, as opposed to taking a quick drive past.

Each en suite tent (8 m x 4 m) has two three-quarter beds or a queen-size bed, linen, carpets, a luggage rack, comfy camping chairs, bedside tables and electric lanterns. The tents in Skilpad Flower Camp make use of chemical portaloos while Beach Camp has enviro loos and chemical portaloos. Hot water is available twice a day: Your shower bag is filled for you.

It’s pricey but worth the expense. Your every need is catered to, including a full English breakfast, morning and afternoon tea and a three-course dinner. If you’re still peckish, you can order a picnic basket for two (R280) at lunchtime. The staff go the extra mile to make your stay as comfortable as possible. This includes switching on your electric blanket for you while you’re at dinner.

Evening meals consist of a warm starter like lentil soup, followed by a hearty main and rounded off with a baked pudding. The dining area is decorated with kilims, candles and drapes – you’ll feel like you’re inside a Bedouin tent – and there’s a cash bar.

The days are yours to fill as you wish. Sit in your chair and stare at the sea or drive around the park and see how many wildflowers you can identify.

Nights offer an illumination of stars and a silence so deep you can almost hear the flowers folding shut in the moonlight. Where? The best route to Skilpad Flower Camp is via Kamieskroon, whereas the best route to Beach Flower Camp is through Garies. Visit flowercamps.co.za for detailed directions. Rates: R2 970 per person sharing; 2022 season from 19 August to 18 September. Contact: 071 260 6367 (Charmane); genevieve.maasdorp@sanparks.org