PRSRT STD U.S. Postage Paid Permit No. 746 Seattle, WA 412 Maynard Ave S Seattle, WA 98104
VOL 38 NO 32 AUGUST 3 – AUGUST 9, 2019
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37 YEARS YOUR VOICE
Photo by George Liu
The Giant Spider ‘Maman’ Sculpture outside the National Gallery in Ottawa, Ontario Canada
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Adventure travel needn’t be far By Becky Chan NORTHWEST ASIAN WEEKLY
see WA on 12
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Photo by Becky Chan
“One’s destination is never a place, but a new way of seeing things.” – Henry Miller I put the shirt back in the closet after weighing it with my hand. Too heavy. Traveling frees me from my materialistic world, to do with less. Traveling by bike even less. The more you bring, the heavier a burden you carry. Couple weeks ago, my friend Pat and I embarked on a busbike three-day adventure close to home in Bellingham. We had no fixed itinerary, other than catching the bus to go 90 miles north. We loaded our bikes with panniers to carry our stuff. While it’s not exactly biking across the United States, I sensed Larrabee State Park
Congratulations, Ami Nguyen!
Seattle City Council candidate Ami Nguyen and husband Dan Chhan with their new daughter. Caitlyn Chhan was born on July 27, 2019 and weighed 6 pounds, 10 ounces. This is the first time a council candidate has given birth during a campaign.
412 Maynard Ave. S., Seattle, WA 98104 • t. 206.223.5559 • f. 206.223.0626 • info@nwasianweekly.com • ads@nwasianweekly.com • www.nwasianweekly.com
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37 YEARS
AUGUST 3 – AUGUST 9, 2019
■ NAMES IN THE NEWS
Expedia exec Aman Bhutani leaving
The president for Brand Expedia Group, Aman Bhutani, is leaving the company after nine years to pursue another opportunity, according to reports, amid changes in company executive ranks and change in reporting responsibilities. “We are so grateful for Aman’s contribution to Expedia Group and Aman Bhutani wish him well in his new endeavor,” said Mark Okerstrom, Expedia Group CEO and president, in an emailed statement. Bhutani grew up in New Delhi, India and currently serves on the Board of Directors for the New York Times. He’s also a member of the Innovation Advisory Council for the City of Seattle.
the release of “The Panda is Still Fat and Other Haikus” on July 20. Nolen Lee, the creator of Punching Pandas, signed autographs at the store and he talked about the process of making “The Panda is Still Fat”—the sequel to his first book of haikus. There was also a live drawing demonstration.
Shannon Gee wins diversity award
Photo by John Liu
Li Na has broken new ground at the International Tennis Hall of Fame. On July 20, the 37-yearold former Chinese star became the first Asian-born player to be inducted. She was enshrined during a lengthy on-court ceremony that followed the Hall of Fame Open semifinals. Li became the first Asian to win a Grand Slam tournament, capturing the Li Na 2011 French Open in a final that was watched by an estimated 116 million people in her country. “I started at about 8 years old, but I hated tennis,” she told the crowd. “Not bad, at least I’m standing here right now.” She also captured the 2014 Australian Open after being runner-up twice.
Maynard Alley Party
SCIDpda and the Wing Luke Museum hosted the Maynard Alley Party on July 18. Held in the Chinatown alleyway to celebrate summer, attendees enjoyed tasty treats, arts and crafts, and live music. The event was organized as part of JamFest, an outdoor community celebration.
Nolen Lee at Kinokuniya
Photo by George Liu
First Asian-born player in Tennis Hall of Fame
Kinokuniya Seattle hosted a book signing, celebrating
Shannon Gee (right) and Alliance for Community President & CEO Mike Wassenaar
The general manager at Seattle Channel, Shannon Gee, accepted the Jewell Ryan-White Award for Cultural Diversity at the Alliance for Community Media’s annual conference in Portland, Ore., on July 11. The award recognizes outstanding efforts to create culturally diverse and/or non-mainstream community involvement in the field of community media. “The community media model provides a unique opportunity to serve the public. It allows us to tell hyperlocal stories and show how the underserved and often unheard or misheard are historians, innovators, and experts in our communities’ narratives,” said Gee. Gee joined Seattle Channel in 2005 and launched “Community Stories,” which has since been honored with more than 35 Northwest Emmy nominations and the 2015 Kaleidoscope Award.
From SEA to shining sea We’re proud to have roots—and routes—in Seattle, WA.
YOUR VOICE
■ COMMUNITY NEWS
AUGUST 3 – AUGUST 9, 2019
asianweekly northwest
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Language barrier, fear keeps Chinese family from reporting sexual harassment to school By Jo Franklin (Pseudonym) When 12-year-old Tiffany first came to me for English tutorials, she had just arrived from Xi’an. So in Lesson One, I explained American greetings. “Here in the U.S., we say, ‘Hi, how are you?’” I explained. Tiffany is clever, but she never learns to say, “Hi, how are you?” She just throws the door open, starts talking about nail polish, wraps her arm around my waist, and walks me toward the kitchen table to study. One day she announces, “I’m starting FLASH class. FLASH stands for Family Living and Sexual Health.” Her questions fly at me like machine gun bullets. “You need to talk to your mother,” I say, but she protests, “Mom doesn’t know English for these things!” I emailed her mother, who says, “Just answer Tiffany’s questions. Don’t give her more than she asks for.” Tiffany’s mother and I feel lucky that she prefers her tutor’s dry facts to her friends’ silly gossip. Then one day, Tiffany opens the door and says nothing. At the kitchen table, on a Post-it, she draws a body with outstretched arms and legs. Between the legs, she draws a long, skinny letter, “U.” She tears up the Post-it. “Eason drew these all over my social studies homework.” “Did you show it to the teacher?” “No!!!” “That’s OK, I will report Eason.” “Please don’t tell the school! I can’t make trouble there!” I gave Tiffany’s mom the contact information for the school counselor who I know will stop Eason. I also think that Tiffany’s mom will take care of this immediately.
A few weeks later, when Tiffany opens the front door, she has red-rimmed eyes. “Eason rubbed my back. It was icky.” I write Tiffany’s mom again and arranged to meet her at Starbucks. Usually warm, she is cold and silent. Confused and surprised, I tear up. “Why didn’t you tell the school counselor?”I asked. “She will think we are troublemakers. This matter will stay on Tiffany’s record. She will lose scholarships,” said her mom. Our coffee date ended abruptly. I think to myself, “I enjoy tutoring Chinese children, but now it’s over. I will obey the law and stop Tiffany’s harassment, but I will ruin my reputation in the Chinese community.” Before I hit “send” on my email to the counselor, I call Tiffany’s mom to say that I will send her a copy.
Long silence. “OK.” Immediately, the school counselor removes Eason from Tiffany’s classes. Mom decides to continue my tutoring. “I told Tiffany that you were working in the background at the school, to help her. I want her to keep trusting you.” “Thank you very much. I couldn’t watch Tiffany get harassed,” I said. “She loves you, Jo. So do I. The problem is that I don’t know the right words for FLASH in English.” I told her, “I’ll get you a FLASH comic book written for middle school kids. Then you can learn the English you need to talk to Tiffany.” When grades come out, Tiffany gets four A’s and two B’s. Clearly, she’s receiving no punishment for “making trouble.” Tiffany and her mom are still not convinced they can report problems without harming Tiffany’s academic records. So now I call the school. Tiffany gives me details— names, clothing styles, class room numbers—that make my reports believable. Her name is not used, the school counselor believes me, and the problem is solved. It would be better, however, if Tiffany, her mom, and my other Chinese students could talk directly to the schools without fear. Names and specific details in this story are changed to protect the family’s privacy. Jo Franklin is the pseudonym of a private tutor who works in Puget Sound’s Chinese American community. She wants to help children, especially new immigrants, to feel safe in reporting sexual harassment to school officials.
asianweekly northwest
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■ TRAVEL
AUGUST 3 – AUGUST 9, 2019
37 YEARS
Travel packing tips from Alaska Airlines
1. First decide if it would be easier to check a bag, even if it is free. Ask yourself, “Do I really need to carry on?” There are strong reasons why checking your bag might make more sense when you fly Alaska Airlines. Your first checked bag is always free with your Alaska Airlines Visa Signature® card, for you and up to six other people in the same reservation. Our 20-minute baggage service guarantee means we guarantee we’ll have your luggage back in your hands within 20 minutes of your flight’s arrival at the gate—or we’ll pay up, to the tune of 2,500 Mileage Plan miles or a voucher for $25 off a future flight. 2. Make sure your bag meets carry-on size limits. Alaska’s maximum allowed carry-on dimensions will be slightly smaller to better align with our codeshare partners and other major U.S. carriers, so you can more easily transfer among airlines without running into a snag with your bag. 3. Make sure you can lift your carry-on bag. A good rule of thumb is to give it the old “refrigerator test” before
all over the world and has offered up some travel essentials (https://blog.alaskaair.com/travel-tips/lulys-travel-musthaves/) for a great flight. Our favorite is to travel with a super cozy shawl, like the Luly luxe shawl. It doubles as a blanket or pillow and even dresses up an outfit for a dinner party. 5. Keep travel fun. Before you board, download the Gogo Entertainment app to access 500 free movies and shows, including recently released blockbuster hits, directly from your device. 6. Be sure to arrive early if you’re checking a bag; we have a 45 minute cut-off to receive and get your bag loaded to the right plane. Fashion Designer Luly Yang’s travel essentials must-haves
To avoid loss of luggage:
you leave home: see if you can place your packed suitcase on top of your refrigerator without assistance or pain. If so, you’re ready to fly. 4. Our fashion designer and partner Luly Yang travels
Make sure to label your bag and that your name, cell phone, and the name of your final destination are listed inside the bag, to help us get the bag to you.
■ COMMUNITY NEWS Seattle pain doctor indicted in opioid kickback scheme SEATTLE (AP) — A Seattle pain doctor is facing charges related to a major nationwide kickback scheme involving fentanyl prescriptions. Dr. Rajni Jutla is accused in an indictment returned in U.S. District Court on July 24 of accepting more than $109,000 in kickbacks between 2012 and 2016 from Arizona-based Insys Therapeutics. Prosecutors said she took sham speaking fees to more broadly prescribe an oral fentanyl spray approved for a specific type of cancer pain.
In an email on July 25 to The Associated Press, she said she is “confident all insinuations will be found untrue.” Jutla is the founder of Mind Your Body Clinics, with offices in Seattle, Edmonds and Lake Oswego, Oregon. Insys filed for bankruptcy after agreeing to pay $225 million to settle federal charges. Its founder, John Kapoor, was convicted of racketeering in May.
Rajni Jutla PRIMARY 2019 ACRS ad_NW Asian Weekly_57.5in.pdf 1 7/24/2019 5:34:53 PM
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YOUR VOICE
■ WORLD NEWS
AUGUST 3 – AUGUST 9, 2019
asianweekly northwest
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Hoses, ice packs help tame Tokyo heat before the Olympics
By JIM ARMSTRONG AP SPORTS WRITER TOKYO (AP) — The heat is on for organizers of the 2020 Tokyo Olympics. Several days after marking one year to go before the opening ceremony, the notorious Tokyo heat kicked in just in time for a beach volleyball test event that gave organizers a chance to implement their heat counter-measures. At the Shiokaze Park on Tokyo Bay, the venue for the beach volleyball competition, organizers cooled off the sand with water from firefighter-grade hoses. Some athletes immersed themselves in giant buckets of ice water while others used ice packs to beat the heat. Volunteers sought refuge in tents that were set up to keep people out of direct sunlight. In the temporary stands set up next to the main court, spectators used hand fans to cool down and were allowed to bring in plastic bottles of water. Experts have warned the risk of heatstroke in Tokyo has escalated in recent years, while noting the Olympics are expected to take place in conditions when sports activities should normally be halted. A prolonged rainy season had kept temperatures in the Japanese capital cooler than normal for July but that came to an end at the start of the four-day event where temperatures shot up to 91 degrees Fahrenheit on July 25 with humidity that made it feel much hotter. Those are precisely the type of conditions athletes, spectators and volunteers will have to contend with in a year. Norway’s Anders Mol, who competed in the test event
and will be a medal contender in Tokyo, said the heat made it difficult to stay focused. “It was very unusual, we’ve never played in these conditions before,’’ Mol said. “I think we under-estimated it a little bit when we came here. We thought it was going to be OK, hotter than usual, but this makes it really difficult to stay mentally focused all the time. It was difficult today.’’ And things could be worse. High temperatures have long been a concern of organizers especially after a historic heatwave hit Japan’s capital last summer, with an area near Tokyo seeing a record temperature of 106 F. The starting times of several events have been pushed back in an attempt to avoid the midday heat. The men’s and women’s marathons were pushed back one hour to 6 a.m. to mitigate the heat, while the men’s 50-km race walk will commence at 5:30 a.m. Some of the heat countermeasures that organizers will use include using electric fans, large-scale misting towers, and installing special coating over 85 miles of roads in the city’s center—with reflective material that reduces the surface temperature. Hidemasa Nakamura, the Tokyo2020 Game Delivery Officer, states the obvious when he says “it is impossible to control the weather. “I will have to work depending on the situation,’’ he adds. “When the Wet Bulb Globe Temperature (a combination of heat and humidity) exceeds 30, it is better to avoid direct sunlight. So, it is difficult to cover every area, but it is important to install mist stands and make shade. For example, even if people have to stand in a queue, it is
important to use these places and communicate with each other. I think there is still room for improvement.’’ Organizers are also planning to allow spectators to bring bottled drinks into venues, like they did at the test event, a departure from previous games where sponsor and security considerations prohibited such an option. “It was very hot today,’’ said Katsuhito Kumagaya, a student who came to watch the beach volleyball. “As long as it stays around 32 or 33 it should be OK. But if the temperature goes up like last summer, it will be a real problem.’’ Tokyo hosted its first Summer Games in the cooler month of October 1964, but that was before the Olympics became big business and TV contracts determined schedules. Next year’s competition featuring 33 sports and 339 events will run between July 24 and Aug. 9, the hottest time of the year. Last summer, more than 54,000 people were rushed to hospitals for suspected heatstroke and heat exhaustion across the nation in July. Of those, 4,430 came from Tokyo, according to the Fire and Disaster Management Agency. Still, some athletes at the beach volleyball competition said it wasn’t that bad. “The hotter the better as far as we’re concerned,’’ said 40-year-old American veteran Kerri Walsh Jennings. “We’ve played in way hotter and wetter weather than this. It’s just a mentality, you definitely do your leg work, do the prep, stay hydrated ... but mostly it’s all about your mindset and just handling it.’’
Boy in China caught by blanket after falling six stories Pear Video/Weibo.com
By Staff NORTHWEST ASIAN WEEKLY
The boy hanging from the balcony.
A three-year-old boy fell from a six-story apartment balcony after he lost his grip, but was saved by a group of people who used a blanket to catch him, according to Chinese online media outlet Pear Videos. Residents at the housing community in Chongqing rescued the child on July 29. He
suffered minor injuries to his head and legs. The boy had been left home alone while he was asleep. The grandmother, who had been watching over him, went out to buy food to prepare a meal. The apartment manager told Pear Videos, “The child was at home sleeping, and after he woke up he may have been looking for the adults. When he didn’t find them, he tried to go off the balcony.”
asianweekly northwest
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AUGUST 3 – AUGUST 9, 2019
37 YEARS
■ COMMUNITY CALENDAR AUG 1
BAMBOO CIRCLE CELEBRATION Seattle Chinese Garden, 6000 16th Ave. S.W., Seattle 5 p.m. RSVP to info@ seattlechinesegarden.org 206-934-5219 ARTIST TALK WITH DEAN WONG Wing Luke Museum, 719 S. King St., Seattle 6:30-8 p.m.
2 PING PONG TOURNAMENT Hing Hay Park, 423 Maynard Ave. S., Seattle 2-5:30 p.m. 2 p.m.
1717 Fawcett Ave., Tacoma 4:30-9 p.m.
3, 10, 17, 24 SAAFF’S C-ID SUMMER CINEMA SERIES Hing Hay Park 7:30 p.m. Full schedule at seattleaaff.org/2019
5 19TH ANNUAL KIN ON GOLF TOURNAMENT Washington National Golf Club, 14330 SE Husky Way, Auburn 10:30 a.m.-9 p.m. kinon.secure.force.com
6
3
FROM HIROSHIMA TO HOPE Green Lake, Seattle 6-9:30 p.m.
CID BLOCK PARTY 2019 Seattle’s C-ID 3-9 p.m. cidblockparty.com
7, 14, 21, 28
FREE CINEMATIC ENTERTAINMENT, “CRAZY RICH ASIANS” Seattle Center, Mural Amphitheatre 9 p.m.
IT HAPPENED HERE! STORIES IN HING HAY PARK Hing Hay Park, 423 Maynard Ave. S., Seattle 12 p.m.
CHINATOWN/ID BAR HUNT Seattle’s C-ID 11 a.m.-2 a.m.
8
TACOMA BON ODORI FESTIVAL Tacoma Buddhist Temple,
MAYUMI TSUTAKAWA DISCUSSES HER BOOK, “WASHINGTON’S UNDISCOVERED FEMINISTS”
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Southwest Branch, 9010 35th Ave. S.W., Seattle 6-7:30 p.m. 206-386-4636
SCAC CITY SERVE DAY Dearborn Park International School, 2820 S. Orcas St., Seattle 10 a.m.-4 p.m.
NORTHWEST LUMPIA 8TH ANNIVERSARY Northwest Lumpia, 1607 Center St., Tacoma 11 a.m. squareup.com
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DA 4TH ANNUAL SPANAWAY ISLAND FEST Sprinker Recreation Center, 14824 C St. S., Tacoma 10 a.m.-10 p.m. HELLO KITTY CAFE TRUCK WEST Westfield Southcenter, 2800 Southcenter Mall, Seattle 10 a.m.-8 p.m.
2019 ALL THINGS JAPANESE SALE JCCCW, 1414 S. Weller St., Seattle 10 a.m.-4 p.m. 22ND ANNUAL POLYNESIAN LUAU APCC, 4851 S. Tacoma Way, Tacoma 3-7 p.m. events.eventzilla.net SEATTLE NIGHT MARKET: ALOHA South Lake Union 4 p.m.
CAMBODIAN CULTURAL CELEBRATION Saltwater State Park, 25205 8th Place S., Des Moines 11 a.m.-5 p.m. discoverpass.wa.gov
HAI! JAPANTOWN 2019 Japantown Seattle 3-7 p.m.
OTHELLO PARK INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL 4351 S. Othello St., Seattle 12-6 p.m.
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FREE CINEMATIC ENTERTAINMENT, “BOHEMIAN RHAPSODY” Seattle Center, Mural Amphitheatre 9 p.m.
FREE CINEMATIC ENTERTAINMENT, “DIRTY DANCING” Seattle Center, Mural Amphitheatre 9 p.m.
FILIPINO HERITAGE NIGHT TICKET SPECIAL T-Mobile Park, 1250 1st Ave. S., Seattle 7:10-10:10 p.m. mlb.com
24 MAHOU SHOUJO DAY 2019 Red Lion Hotel, 11211 Main St., Bellevue 12-6 p.m. tickettailor.com FREE CINEMATIC ENTERTAINMENT, “BLACK PANTHER” Seattle Center, Mural Amphitheatre 9 p.m.
10-25 KIKI’S DELIVERY SERVICE Kent Station 2 p.m. Free admission Reserve seats at theatrebattery.org
View the solution on page 14
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YOUR VOICE
■ TRAVEL
AUGUST 3 – AUGUST 9, 2019
asianweekly northwest
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Travel tips from NWAW staff writers Nina
as the one attached from Amazon. (They are also usually available in most tourist locations.) These bags are collapsible and are handy for keeping dirty laundry separate and also can be checked in when flying back if you run out of luggage space in your regular suitcase.
traveling somewhere where I don’t need to be cute, I pack old clothes with the intent of leaving them behind. That way, I can travel light and then gradually discard clothing, making room in my luggage for souvenirs to take home.
Mahlon If you must go on vacation, go someplace
Stacy I bring a big plastic bag to store my dirty
clothes as I’m traveling. That way, I don’t have to rush to a laundry all the time and the smell of my dirty clothes doesn’t taint the nice smelling clothes. I also put a few dryer sheets in the clear clothes so they stay fresh-smelling. I download offline versions of the local Google Maps and Google Translate, for
those times I don’t have wifi and am kind of lost somewhere. This has saved me a lot because I can point to a map on my phone and then translate a few scattered words to a local to ask them to help me not be lost forever. When I’m in a hot climate or am
where you will have a worse time than your regular life. We were ruined by our trip to France. After dining well for every meal, walking through age-old villas and pristine forests all day, and sleeping in brick mansions and chic Paris hotels at night, we soon came to believe see TIPS on 15
Use Foursquare to find and bookmark restaurants and activities. You can load spots on the Foursquare map using the hotel/Airbnb WiFi and then when you go out, you have all these spots saved and you can use GPS to get there without WiFi. This came in really handy when I was on my solo trip in Paris and London—I was able to navigate without my spotty T-Mobile WiFi because the spots were already saved in the app.
Photo by Han Bui
Kai
Whether traveling near or far, by car or by air, I find hand sanitizer and mild multipurpose cosmetic wipes to be handy, easy hacks for a quick re-fresh. Wipes can be great after a long airplane ride or while camping (just make sure you’re not allergic). I’ve been teased for breaking out the sanitizer, but I give it full credit for getting me through several overseas trips germ- and sickness-free. And I cannot say the same for those who declined to use it!
Becky Pack light. Pack wool. Pack layers and multi-
function clothing and gear.
Yoon My favorite travel hack is to bring along a
plastic zippered laundry/shopping/storage, such
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37 YEARS
AUGUST 3 – AUGUST 9, 2019
■ TRAVEL
hiked along the coast of Santorini. While in Athens, the couple also got matching anchor tattoos on their fingers to mark and commemorate their honeymoon.
Photo provided by Sarah Koerner
Bora Bora
Sarah and Daniel Koerner in Greece
By Nina Huang NORTHWEST ASIAN WEEKLY
The Hawaiian Islands Lydia Hsu and Ben Liang got married in June and went to Maui and Oahu for their honeymoon, where their priority was seeking out good food. Growing up, Hsu’s father always told her to save Hawaii for her honeymoon and that was ingrained in her head. “We also just wanted somewhere we could relax and not feel like we needed to go out and sightsee,” she said. They chose Hawaii over Europe or Japan because they wanted to just hang out on the beach and make the most of it, rather than trying to go out and see everything. Not only did Hsu and Liang relax on the beach, but they also did some sightseeing, snorkeling, and hiking. They booked a Costco package that bundled up a rental car and resort. They also chose activities based on the locations of where they wanted to eat. Their favorite meal was at Mama’s Fish House, located right on the beach. They enjoyed the freshly caught seafood, as well as the views.
“Maui’s less developed than Oahu so the pace is a lot slower. It was a great place for us to unwind and take things slow. Everyone there is not in a rush,” she said. Hsu recommends booking a reservation ahead of time to experience the Haleakala sunrise. She described herself and her husband as active and appreciative of history and culture. They went on an outrigger canoe ride and learned its significance in Hawaiian culture.
of everything for everyone and you can do whatever that matches your desired pace. They chose a mix of accommodations, from Airbnb to upscale hotels, to experience more of the culture and traditional Greek hospitality. They rented mopeds and ATVs in Santorini and Mykonos to explore the islands. They also did a wine tour at Santo Wines and experienced the gorgeous sunsets on rooftop bars. In addition, they
Greece Sarah and Daniel Koerner got married in July 2018, but postponed their Greek honeymoon to April of this year. They were on vacation for a little over two weeks. Sarah was inspired by the Kardashians’ trip to Greece. “Greece looks so beautiful and serene, it looked like a perfect place to relax and explore the historic side as well,” she said. They visited Athens, Santorini, and Mykonos, and booked everything themselves on travel sites like Travelocity after reading Google reviews. Sarah said that Greece has a little bit
After eight years together, high school sweethearts Grace Xia and Jared Howell are getting married in August, and they’ve decided to visit Bora Bora for their honeymoon. Howell won an all-expenses paid trip last year at work for his accomplishments and the couple decided that they would save that trip for their honeymoon. “We love to travel and travel a lot, but we felt like no other place would top this, so we chose to use this as our honeymoon,” Xia said. Xia said that other top honeymoon contenders were Greece and Italy, but ultimately decided that they could always go back, but Bora Bora was a prime destination for honeymooners. They’ll be staying at the prestigious Four Seasons resort for five nights. Xia is most excited to jet ski because the last time she jetskiied was in high school. They plan to stay on the property because there’s already so much to see and do there. They wanted to go somewhere where they didn’t have to plan everything out, and that they could just relax. Xia explained that they really enjoy quality time with each other, and are very comfortable not doing an activity. In fact, their favorite activity is relaxing together and reading a book next to the pool. “We don’t really allow ourselves to fully relax and even though we like to travel together, we’re still homebodies,” she said. see HONEYMOON on 15
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AUGUST 3 – AUGUST 9, 2019
YOUR VOICE
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Photo by Gary Tang
■ TRAVEL
asianweekly
Old Lyon from our veranda.
Photo by Gary Tang
By Scott Wittet FOR NORTHWEST ASIAN WEEKLY
The spectacular, 19th century Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière, Lyon.
Among European countries, perhaps driving in France is the easiest for Americans. Unlike in the UK, the French drive on the right side of the road, road signage is good, and the very common traffic roundabouts let you take your time finding the right exit (relax—there’s no rule saying you have to get off the first go-around if you’re not ready).
■ PICTORIAL
Alaska Airlines Torchlight Parade
on July 27, at Westlake Park Photos by George Liu and John Liu
The best thing about driving in France, though, is that you can explore so much farther afield, reaching quaint villages that don’t have rail stations or airports, and you can do it on your personal timeline. Google navigation worked perfectly for us, though you’ll need to either have a data plan in Europe (so you can see the traffic), or download the maps to your phone ahead of time. see FRANCE on 13
asianweekly northwest
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37 YEARS
AUGUST 3 – AUGUST 9, 2019
Photo by Assunta Ng
Photo by George Liu
■ PUBLISHER’S BLOG
A tiny house on Thousand Island
Ottawa Chinatown Royal Arch
Canadian flag is on the left of the bridge and USA flag is on the right
The Rideau Canal in Ottowa
Photo by George Liu
Photo by Assunta Ng
Photo by John Chan
Photo by Assunta Ng
A Chinese meal in Toronto
A tiny house on Thousand Island
Between Ottawa and Toronto: Thousand Islands and more
Photo by George Liu
Chinese food in Vancouver B.C. vs. Toronto By Assunta Ng NORTHWEST ASIAN WEEKLY
A yoga session on the lawn of Ottawa’s Parliament
My recent trip to Toronto (my 4th visit) was surprisingly unpredictable. It happened the minute I landed on Canadian soil. I
not only missed the connecting flight in Vancouver B.C. to Ottawa, but lost my luggage upon arrival. To maximize my high school reunion trip
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AUGUST 3 – AUGUST 9, 2019
YOUR VOICE BLOG from previous page held in Toronto, my husband and I took a side trip to Ottawa. We had never been to Canada’s capital. With the exchange rate in our favor, I figured it’s a great time to travel in Canada. Even though missing our connecting flight (due to the Vancouver airport’s fault) was exhausting and miserable at the moment, it dawned on me afterwards that it could have been worse. We arrived in Ottawa after midnight. A huge relief was, we didn’t have to spend the night in Vancouver. When we can handle unexpected disasters, our whole trip became adventurous and we’ll remember it more.
The city and capital
Can you believe people are allowed to do yoga and play on the lawn of Ottawa’s Parliament? Security is much relaxed compared to our capital in Washington, D.C. Crime rates are much lower in Ottawa than D.C., which has the highest crime rate in the United States. What makes the big difference? No guns. It is illegal to carry guns in Canada. There weren’t that many cops around. We can tour some government buildings as long as we have two pieces of identification. It is a hassle to tour D.C. government buildings if you don’t have the right connections. Ottawa has 200,000 more residents than D.C. Surrounded by canals and the Ottawa River, parks and lots of art objects (practically every building entrance has one), it’s relaxing to roam around the capital. Everywhere you go, you notice a sea of diversity. Canada’s Prime Minister, Justin Trudeau, has often said diversity is Canada’s strength. In contrast, President Donald Trump often blasts immigrants, people of color, and women. In Ottawa, you can hear people speak French in addition to many other foreign languages. Canada is a bilingual country with French and English signs in many public places. Our tour guides often flip between the two languages.
4 cruises
During this trip, we never expected to take four different cruises in a week. Well, if you don’t want to drive much, take a cruise. What’s so special about the Ottawa River cruise? It gave us Canada’s history and cultural background. You can see Parliament from another angle. Many embassies, such as France, China, Britain, Japan, and the United States are located right on the edge of the river. These buildings exhibit impressive architecture. During the tour, you also get a glimpse of nature, including waterfalls. We also took Ottawa‘s Rideau Canal cruise. The canal was recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2007. Built in 1826, it was completed in 1832. The canal idea was a little irrational at the time. The Canadians (French-Canadians) wanted to help the British in case of an American invasion. The engineering then was an amazing feat. Now, it simply enhances Ottawa’s scenery, providing a wonderful water landscape for expensive homes, as well as long walking trails for bikers and hikers. Yes, descendants benefit from their ancestors’ labor although the motive for constructing then was really impractical. In Toronto, my former classmates planned a cruise in Peterborough to see the Lift Lock. It is the highest hydraulic boat lift (reaching 65 feet) in the world. Watch it on YouTube, you will appreciate how interesting the process is. It’s unusual that a couple of the canal locks were operated manually by men and women.
Thousand Islands
If Thousand Islands sound familiar to you, it’s because the place carries the same name as the popular salad dressing. It is
believed that the sauce originated from this part of the world in the late 19th century. Too bad we didn’t have time to buy some dressing during the tour. Located between Ottawa and Toronto, we took the cruise for Thousand Islands on St. Lawrence River on our way driving to Toronto. Part of the river belongs to the United States, and you can see a tiny international bridge connecting the two countries, one side of the bridge displaying a U.S. flag, and the other side, Canadian flag. (See photo on page 10). The river traverses around New York state, and Canada’s province of Quebec and Ontario. It flows into the Great Lakes and the Atlantic Ocean. The characteristic of Thousand Islands features adorable houses on many of the islands, some islands are only 10 and 20 feet long. From afar, those houses look like doll houses. Some islands have erected elaborate castles and mansions. Several abandoned boat houses were floating on the river. According to the captain, the river rises every year due to climate change. People live in these tiny summer houses for only five months out of the year. It would be harsh and cold in winter as the islands have no electricity or drinking water. If you want water, you have to bring your own water from the mainland — by boat, of course. And the same for your garbage, haul it out yourselves. The goal is to preserve the natural beauty of these islands. There are all kinds of cruises to see Thousand Islands. It varies from 1 1/2 hours to 5 hours, and they are all in different locations. I presume you can also join cruises on the U.S. side.
Who has better Chinese food: B.C. or Toronto?
The verdict is… When we talk about B.C., we include Vancouver and Richmond. My vote? B.C. and Toronto are both good. Perhaps B.C.’s Chinese cooking is a little more refined. Personally, I favor Toronto’s Chinese cuisine. B.C. is world-renowned for fancy and expensive Chinese cuisine. I am satisfied with well-made street foods and common dishes like wonton noodles and fried rice. Toronto’s Chinese food is much more affordable, and suitable for the general public. A former classmate treated us to dinner for four people in Toronto. The price was about $41 (USD) for five dishes. Seattle can’t beat that deal. (See photo on page 10). We dined like royalty in many Markham (Toronto suburb) Chinese restaurants thanks to my former classmates organizing our class reunion. They select reasonably-priced
restaurants with good food. Seventy percent of Toronto’s population of 5 million are of Asian descent. Practically, every corner of Markham has a Chinese restaurant, and every other corner is a Chinese-invested mall. These restaurants are mostly packed with private parties and wedding banquets. Although the restaurant sizes vary, quite a few are gigantic and has seating for over 300. The bustling scene of Markham Chinese restaurants was a contrast to the dead quiet Ottawa Chinatown.
Ottawa Chinatown
The night before we left Ottawa, I told my husband, “Let’s have dinner in Chinatown.” We took an Uber to get there. After wandering around the main street from the entrance to the end, I changed my mind. Traveling in Europe, Asia, New Zealand, Australia, and North America, it’s my intent to seek out Chinatowns. And I always eat there or buy something as souvenirs. It’s my desire to support and explore how overseas Chinese live and survive, imagining their struggles leaving their homeland, seeking a better life in other corners of the world. I’m curious and want to understand how this generation fared compared to their ancestors through the lens of Chinatown. Another motivation is, to steal ideas from other Chinatowns to apply in Seattle’s Chinatown. I don’t judge by its size, but its vibrancy. Ottawa Chinatown lacks character and energy. There was hardly anybody on the streets, no tourists. There were plenty of restaurants, Chinese and Vietnamese, but most of them were empty. How do they survive? The only dominant Asian character is a Chinese gate looming high in the entrance, built in cooperation with Beijing in 2010. No one was taking photos except us. Our Seattle Chinatown gate often attracts lots of tourists taking photos. One of my friends, who lives in Ottawa, said there was no reason for him to go to Chinatown. It seems he has long forgotten that part of town. It would take us half an hour to walk back to our hotel. Sad to say, there’s nothing in Ottawa Chinatown, which would make me stay for dinner. In silence, we walked. I was disappointed with what I saw. Maybe, Ottawa’s Chinatown can learn a few things from our International District. Two blocks before we reached our hotel, I found an Indian restaurant. We were delighted that it served buffet-style. Some would find Ottawa Chinatown endearing. When there’s no development, there is no fear of gentrification. Being
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stagnant is not necessarily a good sign. Is the community shrinking? Or is it dying?
Chaos at the Vancouver airport
The Vancouver, B.C. airport was chaotic. Once we boarded the plane in Seattle to B.C., Vancouver’s air traffic controller radioed signals to our pilot to remain on the runway because the airport was too crowded. We were stuck on the runway for half an hour. Then, we waited for a long time for the plane to take off. It also took forever to get our luggage to go through customs as it was an international flight. The airport announced that due to a shortage of luggage handlers, all luggage would be delayed. It has been a problem for the past few years, my former classmate said. When I arrived in Ottawa, my luggage was still at the Vancouver airport. And it happened again when we returned to Seattle’s airport, my luggage (the same one which was lost for my departure flight) was still at B.C. airport. If you have a choice, don’t ever transfer through Vancouver. Could it be that I was a stupid traveler? Clearly, I didn’t learn from my mistake from the first Vancouver airport fiasco. The consolation was, when we got to the Sheraton Ottawa Hotel at 12:30 a.m., the receptionist gave me slippers, toothpaste, and a toothbrush. There was more warmth later. When I called for hot milk, he said, “Room service is closed. We can heat up the milk for you. But you have to come downstairs to pick it up yourself.” Before my husband went down to pick it up, there was a knock on the door. The receptionist delivered the milk himself. It touched my heart. Instantly, I felt comfort, and forgot my earlier troubles at the airport. The tip was not only for his service, but out of gratitude. You see, when we lost the non-stop flight to Ottawa, we had to book a new flight to fly to Toronto before we flew to Ottawa. We never had the time to eat. We shared one lousy slice of pizza on the plane for dinner. The milk was filling my growling stomach so I could sleep. Like I said, it all worked out beautifully for our 7-day trip. I was able to taste a lot of the great cuisine, sightsee, catch up with my former classmates, relax, and also sleep more than I do in Seattle. And oh, I laughed a lot. What a wonderful break from my busy career! Assunta can be reached at assunta@nwasianweekly.com.
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AUGUST 3 – AUGUST 9, 2019
37 YEARS
freedom and adventure. Peddling a bike always brings back childhood memories of riding my father’s black two-wheel “truck.” The seat so high that I peddled askew, with legs straddling the crank set, through the bike frame’s triangle. Oh, the places I could go. I’ve been to Bellingham several times over the years, mainly with Cascade Bicycle Club’s two-day, 200-mile RSVP event, Ride from Seattle to Vancouver and Party. The mid-ride layover day is always in Bellingham. So yes, I can say that I have been to Bellingham. Pat’s never been. My days of riding those distances are over so busing it is a good compromise. We took the BoltBus versus Amtrak because it fit our schedule. Our two roundtrip tickets from Seattle to Bellingham were only $58. Cheaper seats are available depending on booking times, but tickets are purchased online only. Bus drivers accept cash if there is space. The BoltBus stop for Seattle is on 5th Avenue near Uwajimaya in ChinatownInternational District (C-ID). Our bus departed at 11:30 a.m. on a Thursday. Leaving my house about an hour before allowed plenty of time to bike to the C-ID on our preferred route, the Westlake bike path. The 1.2-mile bike lane from Fremont Bridge to Lake Union Park was finished in 2016 and named America’s Best New Bike Lane that year. Lake Union sparkled like cut glass under the mid-morning sun as we pedaled along the waterfront. Yachts as big as mansions sat motionless in the water, while white sailboats bobbed rhythmically, as if to pay homage. Red and yellow kayaks decorated the dark water like baubles here and there. A seaplane swooped down near Kenmore Air, perhaps to pick up passengers for a quick getaway to the San Juan Islands. From Lake Union Park, we continued on through downtown, passing a sign advertising “Dog Gelato.” As we connected with the Second Avenue protected bike lane in Belltown, Pat shouted, “There are some great looking dive bars here!” He was thirsty already. The end of Second Avenue brought us near the Union Gospel Mission Men’s Shelter, where a line was forming. Gelato for dogs. Bars to go diving. Shelter for men. I fell into silent cadence behind Pat. We turned left onto Jackson into C-ID, passed King Street station on Fifth, then to the bus stop. We waited for the bus by our loaded bikes—his pannier was bright orange and mine lime-green. An elderly woman walked by and uttered Mandarin to us, “Wah, awesome!” I responded to her in Mandarin and a conversation ensued. Huang, Ling Hsiang was visiting from Taiwan. Her brother, Chi Lin, lives in Bellevue and encouraged her to visit him after Huang’s husband passed away last year. Huang didn’t speak any English. She said Chi Lin taught her how to use the bus and told her to make mental notes of her surroundings. “He told me not to be afraid.” Huang’s doctor told her bicycling was good exercise to stay young. “You two are doing the right thing to stay young and fit,” she said. She looked fit to me, too. And fearless. “Actually, the best gift you could have given her was a lifetime of adventures.” – Lewis Carroll, Alice in Wonderland Our bus was 15 minutes late. Mr. Bus Driver, as he wanted to be called, made a beeping noise as he “scanned” our tickets with his hands. After everyone boarded, Mr. Bus Driver said, “Okay folks, I suggest you lean back, close your eyes, and hope for the best…because that’s what I’m going to do.” Still, it’s nice to leave the driving to others. The bus let us off at Cordata Station in Bellingham, a few miles northwest of our Airbnb near Lake Whatcom, our home for two nights. Google map’s bicycling route took us to our destination on less busy
Photos by Becky Chan
WA from 1
Cordata Station in Bellingham. Whatcom Museum
streets, the last mile on the Railroad Trail. The Railroad Trail is 3.5 miles of packed gravel path that runs between East Bellingham’s Bloedel Donovan Park at Lake Whatcom and Memorial Park. It was part of the old Burlington Northern and Milwaukee Railroad track. Native sword ferns and ocean sprays grew along the path; vine maples and red alders formed a tunnel and shielded us from the midday sun. Our Airbnb was steps off the trail and a mile from the lake. Over the years, I’ve used Airbnb both domestically and internationally with good results. Sometimes it’s the price, sometimes it’s the location, but it’s always to feel less of a tourist. If the rate is reasonable, having the entire place is unbeatable. Booking a room in a house, my must-have is a private bathroom. Kitchen access is not as important to me if it’s a short stay. Reading and culling through the reviews require time, but it’s worth it. You don’t want to end up in Bates Motel. We settled into our room and soaked in the surroundings. The two-story house was the last one on a dead-end street, with a lily pond in full bloom and a view toward Bellingham Bay. From the deck, outside our room near the gurgling hot tub, our host pointed out Lummi Island, the San Juans, and, in the distance, British Columbia, Canada. We were a world away from Seattle. To capitalize on the remains of the day, we biked a few miles into town. Just south of the city center near the waterfront, we came upon a massive mural, alive with hues of blues, reds, and purples. The lines flowed and formed Mount Baker, the Cascade Range, and the Skagit Valley on the side of the Encogen Northwest power station. Artist Gretchen Leggitt, an avid outdoorsman, created the state’s largest mural on 21,800 feet of corrugated metal siding— the size of two football fields. It took Leggitt and a part-time assistant a month with no days off to finish the painting. Leggitt recently completed a 130’x18’mural on Lake City Way and 88th in Seattle. Go see it. We cycled through town and were drawn to the Whatcom Museum, reigning above the Maritime Heritage Park. The regal Victorian, built in 1892 with red bricks and Chuckanut sandstones, was the New Whatcom city hall when New Whatcom was a thriving town. It is on the National Register of Historic Places. The museum was closed, but we paid our respects by riding slowly past it. Time to refuel. The Rock and Rye Oyster House caught our eyes when we first biked by its brick façade. It didn’t disappoint. Local craft beer helped. The restaurant is housed in the Herald Building that was built in 1926 for the Bellingham Publishing Company. For years, the lighted “HERALD” sign atop the roof helped sailors navigate the sea. The Bellingham Herald still occupies the second floor with other tenants in the rest of the eight-story building. The oyster house on the ground floor was the latest addition. The next day, we rode up the South Bay trail in Bellingham that took us along to Boulevard Park, a picturesque waterfront park with a
playground and amenities, beloved by locals and tourists. Fairhaven, the end point of the 2.5-mile trail, was our stop before we took on Chuckanut Drive. Fairhaven was a settlement founded in the late 1800s and incorporated into Bellingham in 1903. In the 1940s, Fairhaven had housed the world’s largest salmon cannery in the world. Pacific American Fisheries employed nearly 5,000 workers with over 1,000 Chinese laborers. Fairhaven Shipyard now operates from the space near Marine Park. Years ago, I visited Avenue Bread & Deli in Fairhaven and never forgot its home-made English muffins. We sat outside the deli, near a rain-gutter that played a percussive piece with water from the previous night’s rain. On beat, I devoured a juicy Reuben sandwich on house-made bread. Pat didn’t look up from his egg sandwich, stacked with bacon, gorgonzola, spinach, and tomatoes. Next to us, four Labradors contemplated the day on the café’s sidewalk, perhaps on the art of racing in the rain, should it rain again. It was cloudy, but no rain. We left our bikes locked and walked through the historic district with its quaint shops and restaurants. A book lover, Pat resisted the temptation to go into the Village Bookstore, an iconic fixture in Fairhaven and a rare breed as an independent bookstore with three floors of used and new books. Pat peered into the window and sighed, “Miles to go before I sleep.” To fully experience Chuckanut Drive is to bike it. A scenic coastal road snaking between the mountains and the shoreline, with peek-a-boo views of the bay and hairpin turns, it’s an exhilarating ride. There are pullouts along the way. Stopping to admire or rest is encouraged. We stopped at Larrabee State Park, Washington’s first state park, and hiked down toward the beach. Two young fishermen perched precariously on the high cliff above Samish Bay, while families picnicked below. The sun came out. Our route continued south into the farmlands of Bow and looped back north again. We encountered numerous Ragnar Relay runners at various points. The twoday, 200-mile relay race started in Blaine and finished in Langley on Whidbey Island. As we were cycling along, cheering the runners, I heard, “Becky! Becky!” To my surprise, it was my neighbor running the relay. “Megan!” I screamed and gave her a high five. Small world. We biked around Lake Samish where jet-skis were the toys of choice. The sun scorched us. We hunkered down and looked forward to jumping into Lake Whatcom back “home.” After a quick dip in the lake and cleaning up, it was late, we decided it was prudent to Uber into town to Boundary Bay Brewery, namesake of the water that is partly in Canada, partly in the United States. Some say alcohol was smuggled into the United States through Boundary Bay during prohibition. It flows freely now with 14 breweries in Bellingham. We stayed for a tasty flight of IPAs; the food was so-so. Returning, we commented to the Uber driver that the town was hopping. “This ain’t nothing…wait till the students
are back,” he said. Western Washington University, on summer break, is located in Bellingham. Our last morning, we rode to Bloedel Donovan Park to see the Lake Whatcom Triathlon. Along the Railroad Trail, runners of all ages and sizes, in various degrees of agony, completing the last leg of the triathlon. One person had “76” marked on his calf. That’s his age. We got to the park late as a lone cyclist was finishing the bike portion. Near the beginning of the running course, an elderly woman asked frantically if the volunteer had seen an older gentleman come in on bike. She was looking for her husband John. He said, “Yup, an older guy just came in.” A runner shuffled onto the course to begin his 6.2-mile run, having just completed a 25mile bike ride and almost a mile swim before that. The woman ran breathless alongside him and shouted, “JOHN! JOHN! We have the room until 2 o’clock.” Bellingham’s farmers market was our next stop. First, we wanted to try our luck getting brunch at the Homeskillet. The quirky eatery, guarded by the giant patchedwork hen Miss Velveeta Jones, stopped us in our tracks the previous day. Locals we encountered warned us that since Evening Magazine on KING 5 featured the tiny restaurant, it’s been impossible to get in. We had good karma and got in. The place was busy—busy with the colorful knickknacks adorning the restaurant. Busy with conversations, and busy with the waitstaff weaving between tables. The signature dish, the Homeskillet, piled high with seasoned potatoes, topped with salty ham, and smothered with curds of scrambled eggs, was worthy of Instagram. It tasted as good as it looked. Satiated, we continued our journey to the Saturday farmers market on Railroad Avenue. We were greeted with friendly vendors who didn’t try to push their goods, but instead were willing to share a conversation or their expertise. There are over 100 vendors selling local produce and crafts every Saturday from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m., April through December. There is cooked food, too. I gained a new appreciation for small farmers having seen the documentary, The Biggest Little Farm, about living and farming in harmony with nature. Brianne, the garlic farmer, could be a character from that movie. I told Brianne that I wanted to plant the bulbs in my garden. She wrinkled her nose and told me her bulbs were for eating only. “It’s best to buy seed bulbs from a trusted company. I can’t guarantee these garlic don’t have white rot,” she said. Brianne proceeded to educate me about the types of garlic and associated diseases that could remain in the soil for years. Only when I assured her that I would plant the garlic in containers did she sell me the bulbs. “But don’t be pouring that soil in your garden after you harvest,” she said as she wrote down Inchelium, softneck and German Hardy, hardneck on the paper bag. A lesson for $5. We needed to catch the 4:30 p.m. bus back to Seattle, so no lingering at the market. Being on bikes limited our purchase. Cookies and scones were allowed for the trip home. The ride to Cordata Station was uneventful. The bus was late, again. It came from Vancouver and was delayed at the border. We loaded the bikes in the belly of the bus and took our seats. Pat dozed off, and I began to dream of another adventure close to home. “Fill your life with experiences, not things. Have stories to tell, not stuff to show.” – Unknown Becky can be reached at info@nwasianweekly.com.
YOUR VOICE
■ ASTROLOGY
AUGUST 3 – AUGUST 9, 2019
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Predictions and advice for the week of August 3–9, 2019 By Sun Lee Chang Rat — Are you under pressure to do more than your fair share? If a line is crossed, you need to speak up.
Dragon — A lengthy lecture is a good way to lose someone’s attention. If you are trying to convey a simple message, be clear and concise.
Monkey — Have you been pursuing an idea for so long that you have forgotten what initiated it? Ask yourself whether it is worth continuing.
Ox — You are now in a position to provide what was once denied to you. The reversal of fortune is indeed a cause for celebration.
Snake — Attempting to continue something that was started by someone else? Rather than worrying about doing it exactly the same way, find a style that is better suited to you.
Rooster — A lively debate has convinced you to do a little more research. Doing so should uncover some interesting facts.
Tiger — Having trouble gaining traction on a new project? Don’t put too much pressure on yourself at the beginning, the momentum should pick up soon as you get more involved. Rabbit —Struggling to express how you are feeling lately? Start by being honest with yourself first and foremost.
Horse — You tend to shun the well-worn path in favor of blazing your own trail. As long as the results continue to be positive, there is no reason to stop. Goat — The best selection is available to those who come early. Some options may no longer be around if you show up too late.
Dog — Are you already thinking about the sequel before the first part is done? Don’t get too far ahead of yourself. Pig — Although you are confident of who is on board, it is still worth checking in every now and then to avoid surprises.
WHAT’S YOUR ANIMAL SIGN? RAT 1912, 1924, 1936, 1948, 1960, 1972, 1984, 1996, 2008 OX 1913, 1925, 1937, 1949, 1961, 1973, 1985, 1997, 2009 TIGER 1914, 1926, 1938, 1950, 1962, 1974, 1986, 1998, 2010 RABBIT 1915, 1927, 1939, 1951, 1963, 1975, 1987, 1999, 2011 DRAGON 1916, 1928, 1940, 1952, 1964, 1976, 1988, 2000, 2012 SNAKE 1917, 1929, 1941, 1953, 1965, 1977, 1989, 2001, 2013 HORSE 1918, 1930, 1942, 1954, 1966, 1978, 1990, 2002, 2014 GOAT 1919, 1931, 1943, 1955, 1967, 1979, 1991, 2003, 2015 MONKEY 1920, 1932, 1944, 1956, 1968, 1980, 1992, 2004, 2016 ROOSTER 1921, 1933, 1945, 1957, 1969, 1981, 1993, 2005, 2017 DOG 1922, 1934, 1946, 1958, 1970, 1982, 1994, 2006, 2018 PIG 1923, 1935, 1947, 1959, 1971, 1983, 1995, 2007, 2019
*The year ends on the first new moon of the following year. For those born in January and February, please take care when determining your sign.
FRANCE from 9 We’ve been lucky to visit France several times and have checked in at most of the main sites, including six prehistoric, decorated caves (a special passion of mine). This past May (a great month to savor the country), my partner Gary and I focused on visiting new-to-us, less explored destinations. We skipped Paris entirely, flying into Marseille to grab a rental car and reach our apartment before nightfall. Our first base was Nîmes, an old Roman town in southern France. We had made a day trip there a few years earlier, and pledged to return. This time, we spent five days exploring the charming, not-at-all-touristy city, and enjoying the best meals of our trip. The town had so much to offer that our little VW Polo rested in the garage the whole time. Nîmes was settled by veteran Roman soldiers, many of whom had served in the Roman province of Egypt—that’s why the symbol of Nîmes is a crocodile in front of a palm tree (you see it everywhere). Nîmes is great for walking— much of the old town is pedestrian only. A well-preserved Roman amphitheater marks the center of town and it’s still used for entertainment. A few years ago, the city inaugurated a new museum of “Romanity” that helps put the ancient world in context. There’s also a contemporary art museum, a museum devoted to French bullfighting (in France, the bulls aren’t killed at the end of the fight), and a natural history museum that is pretty musty (the stuffed animals are sad and made us sneeze), but which has a nice, small prehistoric section. The city offers several different multi-day passes that help to save euros. Ask at any museum or tourism office. One always eats well in France, and Nîmes is no exception. Our landlady helpfully suggested a small restaurant that she and her husband had stumbled upon while exploring some of their town’s hidden courtyards. L’Estanco (not to be confused with Bistrot L’Estanco, also in Nîmes) is the current passion of chef Luc Gilles. Coincidentally, during the 1970s, Luc interned as a line-chef at the Quality Inn in Seattle. After a nearly 50-year career in other kitchens, he retired. Now he cooks as a hobby, though one that sends him to the Les Halles market at 7 a.m. and keeps him busy all day. Monday through Friday, Luc prepares set, different-every-day, three-course lunch and dinner menus (no substitutions). Every Sunday, the coming week’s menu is posted on the L’Estanco website. Chef Gilles accepts 10 reservations for lunch and 10 for dinner—10 people, that is, not ten tables—and he prepares only enough food for confirmed reservations. The first night we visited, he had only four guests—the two of us and another couple. During the evening, some folks dropped by, but they were turned away—not for lack of space, but because he hadn’t made food for them. Luc is a cheerful man, always laughing. He greets and seats guests personally, suggests a local wine (or mixes cocktails), and serves and clears the table, too. The only other staff was a young apprentice. Luc’s English is excellent, and because there were not many customers during our visits, we had lots of time to chat.
Our meal that first night blew us away, so we asked to see what was on for the rest of the week. Friday is fish night (which I can’t eat), so that was out. Thursday featured blood sausage as an appetizer and rabbit for the main dish. I am a picky eater and no blood sausage had ever passed my lips before, but I told Luc that I would take a leap of faith and place myself in his culinary hands. It’s lucky I was courageous that day because the dish was superb—the main ingredient didn’t taste of blood and was more like a small, round loaf than a sausage. It was presented in two layers, with sautéed endive between, resting on a mild Roquefort sauce. Exquisite! It was hard to tear ourselves away from Nîmes, but we wandered north a couple of hours to reach the Pont d’Arc (in Ardeche), a popular hiking, canoeing, and kayaking destination. We had come for cave art, specifically to visit one of the reproductions the French are so good at. Chauvet 2 opened a few years ago to help the world experience the magnificent, 36,000-year-old paintings found nearby. Only researchers can visit the real cave—the art is fragile and must be protected—but the reproduction is accurate to the millimeter and, mainly because the temperature is kept low, during the tour, it feels like you’re underground. The wall paintings are awe inspiring, and because the work is more technically and aesthetically sophisticated than art found in “younger” decorated caves, Chauvet’s discovery in 1994 turned on its head the idea that art becomes more complex as time passes. After a few days at our base in Vallon-Pont d’Arc, we headed further north, and west, to the town of Beaune in beautiful Burgundy. Our first meal was at the bustling Bistrot des Cocottes (recommended by my dermatologist, my old boss, and Rick Steves, too). The wine was phenomenal, of course, even though for budget reasons we often go with whatever the house is pouring. That night, we wanted old-school French dishes, gorging on local escargots and steak tartare, among other goodies. Like Nîmes, Beaune is a walkable town. Our super-luxe but affordable boutique hotel, Les Jardins de Lois, sits just outside the medieval city walls. Owned by a vintner couple whose tasting room is on the ground floor, Les Jardins is a beautifully converted, centuries-old house. It’s backed by an extensive, manicured garden with private spaces for small groups to relax with a glass and some nibbles. Charming Anne-Marie unveils an amazing breakfast spread each morning—the best of our trip—and was happy to offer ideas about things to see and do. If you visit this beautiful town, don’t miss the Hospices de Beaune, a hospital endowed by a local noble in the 15th century that continued treating patients until the 1970s. Be sure to pick up the excellent English audio guide, included with your ticket. Because we were in Burgundy, we felt we should indulge in a wine tasting class but for scheduling reasons, it didn’t work out. Instead, we visited a mustard factory, just around the corner from Les Jardins. The Moutarderie Fallot has been in the Fallot family for five generations and is the last family-owned mustard maker in France. They still use the traditional, cold-grind method—mustard seeds
are crushed between two huge granite wheels—because, according to our guide, larger batch industrial methods kill the flavor. The tour ended with a mustard tasting— Fallot produces about 20 different products (honey, truffle, curry, thyme, gingerbread, and other flavors, plus of course the regular Dijon style). In the last 15 years, the factory has introduced a mustard made only with ingredients from Burgundy itself, which has won coveted “Protected Origin Identification” status. Now no one can legally make “moutarde de Bourgogne” anywhere else in the world. By contrast, “Dijon mustard” can be produced in any country. Grey Poupon, for example, is made by Kraft in Michigan. Our last base was Lyon, the second or third largest city in France, depending on whether you’re looking at population or physical size. Our Seattle friend Ken joined us there because we had an extra bedroom in our classy apartment on the Rhône river. The French acknowledge Lyon as the gastronomic capital of the country—a 1950s cartoon map symbolizes Lyon as a man, napkin tied around his neck and fork and knife in hand, about to dive into a feast. But Lyon has much more than a surplus of Michelin-starred restaurants to offer—there are two impressive rivers (the Rhône and Saone merge in Lyon), an incredible basilica, great museums, classical ruins, extensive parks, loads of public art, and fun open-air markets. Our Lyon landlady was coy about recommending restaurants (I’ve never figured out why), but she did steer us to a bakery a few blocks away. In fact, there were several in the neighborhood, but only one had a line snaking out the door every morning. It was cute to see all sorts of local folks, from schoolkids to grannies, out early to grab fresh baguettes for the day. A favorite memory of ours is indulging in coffee, pastry, and baguette breakfasts on the veranda, overlooking the river and Lyon’s old town, getting ready for our day. A young company called LyonExplorer offers “tips only” walking tours (no reservations, no tickets, but if you enjoy the tour, leaving 15 or 20 euros per person is appropriate). We opted for their night tour because Lyon is known for dramatic lighting of monuments and bridges (city planners from around the world make pilgrimage there to get new ideas). The tour has a special theme—death—and focuses on spots throughout town that are famous for epidemics (how a mayor identified bad water as a source of illness and solved the problem), Nazi atrocities (retribution for a bombing by the French resistance), and a celebrated murder (a man whose rabbits told him to kill his wife). It sounds morbid, but in fact Marc, our guide, was animated and amusing, and we thoroughly enjoyed ourselves! It was certainly a different take on the city. While Nîmes, Beaune, and Lyon are easy to reach by train from Paris, Pont d’Arc is in the country and our day trips exploring the countryside wouldn’t have been feasible without a car. So don’t be intimidated about driving overseas, at least not in France. After all, you don’t have to get off the roundabout the first time you pass your exit! Scott Wittet can be reached at info@nwasianweekly.com.
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asianweekly northwest
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Photo provided by Joanne Chen
Photo provided by Spencer Chan
YOUR VOICE
Spencer Chan and Chelsie Noel on Machu Picchu in South America
HONEYMOON from 8 Xia has heard that Bora Bora is a hot destination for honeymooners and she looks forward to meeting other guests at the resort. The couple will be staying in one of the resort’s bungalows. “The bungalow is bigger than our apartment, but we’ll still be in a different country experiencing new things and we’ll get a sense of home as well,” she said.
South America Spencer Chan and his wife Chelsie Noel also took a belated honeymoon after their wedding last September. In addition to a mini-moon in Victoria, the couple took their postponed South American honeymoon to Peru and the Galapagos Islands. Chan is the planner of the two, so he took on that task. Machu Picchu and the Galapagos had always been on his bucket list, but they also kicked around other ideas, including France and Australia. They ended up using a service called anywhere.com to book their trip. They work with a lot of local businesses and operators to curate their itinerary and accommodations based on your preferred budget and timeline. Food is also one of Chan’s top priorities when traveling. He said that Lima is an amazing food town and home to three of the world’s best restaurants. Make reservations
Joanne Chen and husband Andrei Balasz in Serengeti
early because many don’t take walk-ins. The small town of Isabela was their favorite. It’s central to some of the best snorkeling and home to the tortoise conservatory. The couple brought small tin candles to light up the rooms they would stay in to give their home away from home a familiar scent. “It’s a nice way to settle and help freshen things up,” he recommended.
Serengeti Joanne Chen and Andrei Balasz, who wed last July, opted for a different type of honeymoon in Africa. They picked the location because they really wanted to see the Serengeti, which is where the wildebeest migration happens. They were deciding between Tanzania and Kenya, but chose Tanzania because they knew people there. Chen said they also wanted a beach component, so they visited Zanzibar off the coast of Tanzania. “The best part was being—and being completely cut off from the world,” she said. Chen advised that with visiting Africa, you can only really go the high-end route or super budget-friendly.
Japan John Guanzon and Karen Ho got married in Honolulu earlier this spring, but are
TIPS from 7
waiting to honeymoon in Japan. Next spring, they’re planning to visit Tokyo, Kyoto, Nagoya, Hiroshima, and Nagasaki. The couple plans on using their credit card travel reward points to book the trip. They wanted to visit another Asian country because they feel a sense of homeyness in Asia from their previous visits to other places, such as Vietnam, Hong Kong, and Taiwan. They actually considered visiting Taiwan again for their honeymoon. To Guanzon, Japan feels like the pinnacle of Asian countries—based on its technological advances, cleanliness, and architecture. The things they liked about other Asian countries were the cleanliness and ease of public transportation, and Japan is known for these. He’s also excited to visit the hot springs and stay at the capsule hotels. They’ll most likely stay in a mix of accommodations from the capsule hotels to 4-star hotels. Food also drives their trip planning and he’s looking forward to eating sushi, ramen, teppanyaki, grilled meats, and wagyu/ Kobe beef. “I grew up loving Japanese things like video games and anime, so visiting places that coincide with those interests will be exciting,” Guanzon said. He’s also looking forward to seeing the Unicorn Gundam statue in Tokyo. In addition, as a history buff, Guanzon looks forward to visiting Nagasaki and Hiroshima, particularly for the World War
traveled aristocrats, should now have to spend hours in our cars each day commuting, have to slave at housework in the evenings, and for that matter have to work at all!
II events, and to see the consequences of Fat Man and Little Boy.
Spain and Portugal My husband Tony Vongdara and I got married in late July, but have also chosen to postpone our honeymoon to Spain and Portugal until October. Our choice of these countries were inspired by our love of seafood and curiosity of countries that have vibrant cultures and histories. Like other couples, we’ll likely stay at a mix of accommodations, ranging from Airbnbs to higher-end hotels. We plan on hitting up Barcelona, San Sebastian, Madrid, Lisbon, the Algarve, and Porto. I’m excited to try all the foods and experience pintxos, paellas, Portugese egg tarts, and more. I’ll be getting recommendations from the late Anthony Bourdain’s Parts Unknown, as well as other notable food influencers. While trying to explore six cities in a little over two weeks is very ambitious, my husband and I are fans of the fast-paced travel style and are ready to accept the challenge. We’ll relax when we get back to Seattle. Nina can be reached at info@nwasianweekly.com.
Eric
Photo by Mahlon Meyer
Ruth
Mahlon’s breakfast in France
that we were meant to live that way—like aristocrats, or at the very least, like the leisured class. What we could not figure out, upon our return, was how we, cultured and well-
I started carrying a hammock in my carry-on luggage a few years ago after reading an article about airport delays and seeing a photo of a hammock that someone had set up in an airport terminal! I haven’t had to use it for that purpose yet, but it beats lying on the floor or trying to sleep on chairs with metal armrests that get in the way. The hammock I purchased from Amazon costs just under $15, weighs only 1.6 pounds, and includes ropes and carabiners. It folds up into its own carrying bag and is the size of a loaf of bread.
I’m all about the travel packing cubes. It’s a great way to organize and separate your clothing types into different compartments, and helps to use your luggage’s precious space efficiently (they’re like $15 on Amazon). Gallon-size ziploc bags for dirty clothes is also a must! I also keep a separate toiletry bag specifically for traveling (basically one of those travel-size toiletry kits). That way, you can pack it the night before without having to reach into it the morning of and possibly forget to put it back. Great not only for vacation travel, but for quick trips/getaways. Staff can be reached at info@nwasianweekly.com.
asianweekly northwest
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■ TRAVEL
37 YEARS
AUGUST 3 – AUGUST 9, 2019
Photos by John Liu
New Zealand: A country like no other
We got to see sheep sheared up close on a farm.
One of around 20 Hobbit houses in Hobbiton.
By John Liu NORTHWEST ASIAN WEEKLY Did you know there is a place called Hobbiton in New Zealand where Lord of the Rings (LotR) was filmed? That was just one of the reasons why my wife, Tracy, and I wanted to visit New Zealand and Australia. On March 7, 2019, we flew to Auckland and boarded the Holland America: MS Noordam cruise ship a few days later. We traveled on the east coast of New Zealand’s North and South Islands, stopped at three destinations in Australia, and finished in Sydney. Since there is so much to cover on our trip, I will talk about New Zealand only for this article. Two months prior, my parents took a similar cruise itinerary, so we got some good intel for our trip. My dad meticulously kept 20 different brochures for every destination and passed them on to me. Thanks, Mom and Dad. My mom wrote briefly about Sydney’s New Year’s celebration in the Northwest Asian Weekly January 2019 issue. Our trip started with a long, exhausting 18-hour flight to New Zealand. We arrived at the hotel at 8 a.m., and not a single restaurant was open. We scoured for a good place to eat and waited. This little Taiwanese cafe called Little Yum eventually opened and served some tasty baos and beef noodle soup. Next, we went on a three-hour tour of Auckland. We traversed up Mount Eden and stared into a crater left by a now-dormant volcano that had erupted 28,000 years ago. The sight was surreal. After the city tour, we were in the mood for ice cream. I discovered an award-winning Instagrammable ice cream shop called Giapo Ice Cream. We got a scoop of chocolate with Rice Krispie Treats on a waffle cone. There were some awesome artistic masterpieces, like a picture frame made of chocolate where you could stick your face in the middle for pictures and some mini cones with holes in them that you can stick on your fingers like puppets. It was a delicious and innovative experience. The next day, we made our way to the Auckland War Memorial Museum. Do not be fooled by its name. It is much more than just a war museum. Some Maori performed a traditional hakka and sang in their native tongues. We learned a great deal about Maori culture and wars and saw a significant number of Maori artifacts. Finally, it was time to get on our cruise ship, the Noordam, which has a capacity of 1,900 passengers. Our first destination was Tauranga, a beach town known for Mount Maunganui. However, we did not spend much time there as we were more interested in seeing Hobbiton about an hour away. The Hobbiton Movie Set is basically The Shire of the Lord of the Rings trilogy and The Hobbit:
Trilogy. Even if you are not a LotR fan, I encourage you to stop by this breathtaking tourist attraction. Hobbiton is located on a 1,200-acre farm where the Alexanders have been tending livestock since 1978. In 1998, Peter Jackson spotted the farm during an aerial search for locations, and the rest was history. Craig and his father, Ian, still tend to the farm while Russell is in charge of Hobbiton. The original Hobbiton was built with temporary materials and was removed after LotR finished filming. When Peter Jackson approached Craig again for the Hobbit trilogy in 2011, Craig requested that Jackson make a permanent set. Hobbiton now attracts 500,000 visitors a year. My parents enjoyed it as much as we did. Our next stop was Mount Victoria located in Wellington for more LotR goodness. Our tour guide brought us to a few set locations, and we had the opportunity to reenact certain scenes from the movies. Then we drove to the Weta Workshop. I had no idea that a lot of popular movie costumes and prosthetics were created here, like Gollum in LotR and Na’vi in Avatar. Unfortunately, we were not allowed to take pictures because the items are considered on loan from studios, which have copyright over them. Nonetheless, I was very impressed. We then traveled to South Island to Christchurch, the third largest city in New Zealand. From 2010-2012, a series of earthquakes, including two of magnitude 7.1 and 6.3, destroyed much of the city. After rebuilding, Christchurch is now one of the fastest growing cities in New Zealand. Christchurch is actually one of Seattle’s sister cities. I had no idea until the tour guide told us. That makes the terrorist attack on March 15, 2019 hit home harder. At the time of the attack, we had already left Christchurch. We stopped at the Botanical Gardens, which was a mile from the Al Noor Mosque, where the first shooting took place. It was a somber day for New Zealand residents and everyone on the cruise ship. New Zealand is home to 30 million sheep, which equates to about seven sheep per person. In the 1980s, the total number of sheep in New Zealand was 70 million and outnumbered people 20 to 1. With that in mind, we had to stop by a farm to see some domesticated sheep. I got to see firsthand a shepherd dog named Tom jumping over fences and herding sheep into a pen. Then we got to see sheep sheared. It was definitely an interesting experience. In Dunedin, the tour guide took us to Baldwin Street, the Guinness Book of World Record’s steepest street in the world. However, I read Baldwin Street has the record due to a faulty measurement. Apparently, the record does not even go to Lombard Street in San Francisco. It is actually Canton Avenue in Pennsylvania with a 37 degree gradient. Regardless, it was still one steep street! Unfortunately, there was not enough time to run up the
Christchurch Botanical Gardens. The Christchurch terrorist attack occurred at Al Noor Mosque, one mile west of this location, a day later.
Tracy posing in the middle of a delicious ice cream artistic creation at Giapo.
street. We snapped some pictures and had to hurry back on the tour bus. Our last stop in New Zealand was the World Heritage site, Fiordland National Park. We spent an entire day cruising along the southern coast of South Island and saw some spectacular waterfalls. This park even has kiwis and penguins. I believe there is only one road leading to the park and most of it is inaccessible, which helps to protect the animal’s natural habitat. I randomly found out that Alien: Covenant was filmed here in 2016. Afterwards, we set course to Australia. My only regret is not finding the time to see the Glow Worms in Waitomo or a kiwi. Much to my surprise, the bird is actually nocturnal. New Zealand is a gorgeous country, and everyone should go at least once in their lifetime. John can be reached at john@nwasianweekly.com.