http://www.nwda.co.uk/pdf/NWalks_2005

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Fabulous

Walks in England’s Northwest

WIN!

ul A wonderf g in lk a w break for two

Get fit Walk your way to health in the country, by the sea and in the city

Walk this way Follow our step-bystep guides to walks for all abilities

Melvyn Bragg “The Lake District is the best walking country in the world”

Follow the stars Ricky Hatton, John Barnes, Sir Chris Bonington, and many more reveal their favourite routes


Contents An area-by-area guide to lead you through the Northwest’s greatest walks 32

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INTRODUCTION

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INTRODUCTION

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GRASMERE The land of William Wordsworth

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MARITIME LIVERPOOL Albert Docks and seafaring history

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NENT VALLEY Mining heritage and great scenery

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HESWALL A birdwatcher’s paradise

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SEFTON COAST Feel the refreshing sea breeze

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FORMBY SQUIRRELS Furry friends on the coast

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LIVERPOOL CITY CENTRE Getting to the heart of the city

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GRIZEDALE Discover Beatrix Potter OTHER WALKS Hadrian’s Wall to Haweswater EXTRAS SPORT ENGLAND DONALD CAMPBELL LAKES MUSIC

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Merseyside

Cumbria

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Lancashire 17

Cheshire

DUNSOP BRIDGE The centre of the British Isles

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INTRODUCTION

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IRWELL SCULPTURE TRAIL 28 impressive artworks

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ANDERTON AND MARBURY Fascinating county parks to explore

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DELAMERE FOREST PARK Picturesque trails in Mersey Forest

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BILSBORROW Lazy walk along a canal

BATTLEGROUND WALK Discover a slice of English history

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NANTWICH TO ACTON Travel through the centuries

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BEESTON CASTLE Spectacular views over Cheshire

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EXTRAS LOOK AFTER YOUR FEET PENDLE WITCHES JRR TOLKIEN

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Greater Manchester 50

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INTRODUCTION

OTHER WALKS 24-28 Blackpool to Wycoller Country Park

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EXTRAS LIVERPOOL’S BIRDS CITY OF CULTURE

INTRODUCTION

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CITY CENTRE Music and venues of Manchester THE QUAYS Galleries, shopping and wildlife

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LEVER PARK A haven for cyclists and walkers

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INDUSTRIAL REVOLUTION Historic mills, canals and factories

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SADDLEWORTH Moorland canal villages

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EXTRAS BEST BANDS JOSEPH BROTHERTON FRED PERRY TENNIS STAR

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OTHER WALKS Frodsham to Chester

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EXTRAS ANDERTON BOAT LIFT

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COMPETITION WIN A WALKING BREAK IN RURAL LANCASHIRE

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KEY

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Easiest walk

Water

Hardest walk

Steep Climb

Historic House

Toilets

Garden

Refreshments

Attraction

Restaurants

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Broadcaster and novelist Melvyn Bragg has loved the Northwest from childhood

Walking for me has always been the best way to travel; a pleasure, not exercise. It seems like the pace at which we are supposed to go, the step matching the heartbeat

“

Melvyn Bragg

�


The Northwest’s ever-changing scenery is the perfect backdrop for the perfect walk, says Lord Melvyn Bragg

Welcome… am biased about the Lake walks are in that bare, District. I’ve had a cottage breathtaking Northern domain. there for 35 years, I was More often than not, if I go for a born within 10 miles of the 2-3 hour walk, I meet two or place and used to cycle there three people at most and feel as a boy – first with my pals that immense pleasure in and then with my girlfriend. I solitude which is one of the have set three of my novels most satisfying characteristics there – The Maid of Buttermere, of walking in an un-peopled, Credo and A Time to Dance – naturally beautiful place. and written a history of the The Northwest has other place, spoke its local Norse fine walking acres. Down in dialect until I was 12 years old Lancashire there are ancient (and still can if challenged) and forests near Carnforth, which consider it to be, after years of lead to scarcely-known other pedestrian experiences, coastlines. To the East, there simply the best walking country is the Great Northern in the world. hinterland reaching towards I have walked there with my Northumbria and Yorkshire. family and still do – walking for To the West, the Solway Firth me has always been the best and the Irish Sea teem with way to travel; a pleasure, not cliff and coastal pathways. exercise. It seems like the pace No wonder, then, that 50 at which we are supposed to years ago Granada, once voted go, the step matching the the finest television company heartbeat. And in the Lakes, in the world, came out of the the air, the ever-changing Northwest, feeding on it and prospects of fells and lakes and off its people, just as they in massive skies racing in from the turn are nourished by the Atlantic Ocean are always a landscapes around them. reminder and a demonstration of the basic, enduring facts of life on the planet. Wigton, the town I came from, is at the Northern end of the Lakes and my cottage is in the Northern Fells. My favourite Melvyn Bragg

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50 walks & 50 years ITV Granada is celebrating half a century of TV by encouraging the people of Britain to get fit 2005 is a momentous year for ITV Granada, which as the longestestablished ITV broadcaster has special reason to celebrate its 50th birthday. In the 50 years since ITV began television has changed beyond recognition. For a start, in 1955 there were just two channels, today there are hundreds. Throughout it’s illustrious history ITV has created countless memorable television moments for generation after generation, such as the country’s most popular drama series ever, Coronation Street. ITV Granada continues to

produce high-quality drama, documentaries, factual, regional and children’s programmes. ITV Granada has always been committed to its viewers with social action programmes and campaigns. The ITV 50th birthday challenge to viewers is to get Britain On The Move. The campaign, which supports the Government’s fight against obesity by encouraging people to become more active through walking, is supported by the Department of Health, Sport England and other partners.

Britain On The Move is linked to the Year of the Volunteer which ITV has celebrated with a ‘Local Heroes’ campaign in which viewers voted for people in their communities who ‘go the extra mile’. A storyline about volunteering has been included in Coronation Street and a series of events have been organised, including participation in The Kellogg’s Corn Flakes Great Walk. In the Northwest there will be a series of walks on National Walking Day–for more information visit: www.itv.com/britainonthemove.

Step it up Stepometers keep track of how many steps you’ve taken while walking. Sometimes called pedometers or stepcounters, they are a useful way of working out how active you are as well as encouraging you to walk that little bit further. It’s recommended that you take a minimum of 10,000 steps per day to keep healthy and fit. Stepometers are available from the Britain On The Move website: www.itv.com/ britainonthemove.

Walking and your welfare Before you stride bravely on any or all of the walks featured in this guide, make sure you are appropriately dressed and equipped for the journey. If the terrain is at all challenging, wear walking boots, not trainers: out

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this will help avoid slips and stumbles. If your walk is at a high level – such as those on pages 18 and 50, take a waterproof, an extra fleece or sweater, high energy snacks and a flask with a hot drink. Take a map and compass and make sure you know how to use

them. Don’t forget your mobile phone, battery fully charged, and before you set off, tell someone where you are going and when you expect to be back. Remember that the weather can deteriorate very quickly, particularly at higher altitudes. So check the

forecast before you leave. For fell top walking weather information call the Lake District National Park weatherline on 0870 055 0575. For other high-altitude weather forecasts see the Mountain Weather Information service website, www.mwis.org.uk.


UTTERLY BUTTERMERE Spectacular and varied landscapes are standard in the Lake District

Cumbria Cumbria is quite simply a walker’s paradise. From historic Hadrian’s Wall to the 12thCentury Kendal Castle, along the vast shoreline of Morecambe Bay to the fells of Kirkby Lonsdale, the area is unique in its variety and beauty, with walks for all ages and experience

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Inside this section P6 Grasmere P8 Nent Valley

P13 Casterton Fellfoot, Talkin Tarn, Solway Coast

P10 Grizedale

P14 Cartmel, Walney Island

P12 Hadrian’s Wall

P15 Coniston P16 Muncaster, Haweswater

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The Poet’s Trail Wander round Grasmere and you’ll soon discover how Lakeland poet William Wordsworth found his inspiration

William Wordsworth described Grasmere as “the loveliest spot that man hath ever found”, which is a tribute to the beauty of the Cumbrian valleys that provided a home and inspiration to the poet for more than half a century. On this relatively easy walk, you can visit both of Wordsworth’s former homes and experience for yourself the scenery he loved. You’ll come to the old village school where Wordsworth used to teach. Opened in 1630, it was among the first of its kind to provide education to local children. The

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original school building is now the famous Grasmere Gingerbread Shop – an ideal opportunity to stock up for the walk ahead! Next to the shop you will find the churchyard of St Oswald’s church, where the Wordsworth family graves stand beneath one of eight yew trees the poet planted himself. Taking the walk from the churchyard to Dove Cottage, the poet’s Grasmere home, you will be following the journey Wordsworth took when returning from church. Dove Cottage is a simple stone house tucked away down a narrow

Shortcuts ● An original quilt from the Wordsworth era covers the bed in one of Dove Cottage’s simple bedrooms ● Daily life at Dove Cottage is chronicled by Wordsworth’s sister Dorothy in The Grasmere Journals ● A letter on the bedroom wall of Rydal Mount is Wordsworth’s positive response to the offer of Poet Laureate – a position he initially refused

Wordsworth’s early home, Dove Cottage


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Directions Distance: 7 miles Time needed: 2-3 hours The best place to start the walk is at the old village school, aka the Gingerbread Shop .You should be able to find this easily enough, as it’s located to the left of the churchyard and a large sign hangs outside B . Turn left at the entrance to the churchyard and walk to the main road. Cross the roundabout, veering

street. A walk across its well-worn wooden floors is a great way to get a sense of Wordsworth family life. The bridleway from Grasmere to Rydal takes you all the way to Rydal Mount, the home that Wordsworth moved to in 1813. This sizeable and grand residence has a dignified air about it, with a large drawing room that overlooks a beautiful landscaped garden designed by the green-fingered Wordsworth himself. You can also view the

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Part of the huge range of gear at Blacks

Get your kit on!

Fitting yourself out with the right gear makes all the difference for walking, and a visit to the friendly advisors at Blacks in Ambleside is all you need to get sorted. Below are just some of the products to get you going. An ideal starter jacket is the Waterproof Berghaus RG1 right, to the narrow lane forking away of the churchyard. Turn right along the from the main road. Walk past the main road, left opposite the pub, crossing (£44.99).It’s durable nylon, museum, attached to Dove Cottage C the bridge, then immediately right to packs away easily and has an follow the footpath through some on the track. Follow path signs to Rydal woodland and alongside Rydal Water. (continuing straight on where the road adjustable hood. For added Follow the bridleway along the turns sharply right). warmth, try the Berghaus hillside until you reach a surfaced lane. Follow the rocky bridle path all the Spectrum 1A fleece (£39.99). Turn right. Take the first footpath on the way to Rydal. When you reach the track, left through Redbank Wood. turn right down the hill, passing Rydal Navigate your way with a Silva At a junction with another footpath, Mount D on the right. St Mary’s Church Field 7 compass (£9.99). E is further down on the right, and turn right back to the narrow lane. Follow this with care back to Grasmere. Dora’s Field F joins on to the far end Store your equipment in Blacks’ own-brand 20-litre rucksack‘Velocity’, Picturesimple bedrooms and the poet’s which has an emergency perfect Cumbria attic study, with books and letters whistle, tough nylon providing a fascinating insight base, padded back and into his life. reflective tags. Most Further down the hill is Dora’s importantly, you’ll need Field, named after one of the good footwear. We poet’s daughters. It’s said that recommend Berghaus he filled the field with daffodils walking boots, (£79.99). as a memorial to her after she the valleys and be inspired by the They aren’t too heavy, have tragically died in 1847.It joins magnificent views as you follow useful reflectors, and a Goretex onto the church where Rydal Water and Grasmere’s gentle lining makes them waterproof. Wordsworth was a warden in shores back to the start. You may Keep a count of the number 1833. He wielded a substantial even see the lonely clouds which of steps you’ve taken with a influence over the design and so inspired Wordsworth as they Britain On The Move Stepometer, location of this church. float silently across the valley. available for £4.99 from www. The return leg of the walk simply ■ Visit www.golakes.co.uk or ring itv.com/britainonthemove. allows you to breathe in the air of 015394 44444 for more details

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Not only does the Nent Valley offer some of the greatest scenery in the country, it holds vital clues about the formation of the land itself RWA PE

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Although the walk from Nenthead Village to Haggs Mine features scenic views across the upper Nent Valley, the greatest rewards are to be found in interpreting geological clues in the landscape, evidence to a time in the 19th-Century when Alston Moor was one of the world’s largest lead mining areas. The Mining Heritage Centre in Nenthead is a useful start. Here, you can familiarise yourself with the rugged countryside as the many influences of mining take some unexpected forms. There are obvious references to mining activity, such as partially overgrown mine entrances and large mounds made of mine tailings. But the real draw is in recognising the plants that can tolerate the high concentrations of lead and zinc in the soil, or the signs of hushing – a technique by which a stream is dammed and then reopened for the water to gouge out loose rock and expose mineral veins. Even the pattern of small walled fields has a special connection as miners were often given land to farm. This is a truly enlightening walk through history. ■ Visit www.eccp.org.uk or ring 01228 561 601 for further details


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Directions Distance: 3 miles Time needed: 2-3 hours Starting from the car park ,cross the road and walk towards Greenends, passing the Lead Company’s former reading room on the left and an old fountain on your right. Bear left up the road paved with sandstone setts and continue sharp right on the tarmac surface to the top of the hill. Pause beside the gateway at the top of the hill where the road bends left. This provides an excellent view across much of the upper Nent valley. Continue along the road to Wardway

Foot. Beyond here, bear left down the narrow tarmac road to Wellgill. B Cross the stone bridge at the foot of the lane and turn left towards the fenced area near the banks of the river. Turn right, follow the footpath downstream and keep to the east bank of the river to the junction of Gudham Gill with the River Nent. Cross the wooden footbridge. You’ll come across a dry-stone arched mine entrance, called Brownley Hill Low Level. C Do not enter as it’s dangerous. Walk up the track on the left (west) side of Gudham Gill from the mine entrance for a few metres. Rejoin the main track

to the north of Gudham Gill and follow it upstream to Greenends Road. Now turn left and walk along to Greenends Road, where you’ll pass an old quarry at Rock House. D Turn left at the finger post to ‘Haggs Bank’ and follow the track down through the area of old spoil heaps. From Nentsberry Haggs Mine entrance E , turn left along the A689 to return to Nenthead. Just before Nentsberry Bridge F ,a small unsigned footpath on the left gives access to the north bank of the river. G Walk back to the main road and continue along the A689 to Nenthead.

Mineral wealth Heaps of intrigue at your feet Alston Moor boasts international recognition thanks to the wealth of minerals discovered there. In the early days, miners were solely interested in finding lead – the minerals alongside it were discarded as huge spoil heaps. And even though miners turned their attention to minerals when zinc and quartz became commercially and scientifically important, the huge mounds of

mine spoil are still the best places to find quartz, ankerite and sphalerite. You’ll also find these running through blocks in the walls, but only collect from the spoils. Alstonite, the area’s bestknown mineral and unique to the north Pennines, is only found deep underground. Barytocalcite, which is similar to alstonite, but with a different crystal form, is abundant in the large spoil heaps.

Source: Ordnance Survey Crown Copyright, All Rights Reserved. GD: NY 774444 - OS EXP OL31 (W)

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Sport England If you want to feel good, have more energy and improve your overall health and fitness, get walking. It’s one of the best exercises you can do and it’s free. Just 30 minutes of brisk walking a day, five days a week, can help promote significant health benefits. Not only will you improve the strength of your heart, lungs and bones, but moderate intensity walking will help reduce high blood pressure, reduce the risk of developing diabetes and, in some cases, prevent the development of osteoarthritis and osteoporosis. Sport England is a government-backed body that aims to make England an active and successful sporting nation. For fun facts on how to turn your walk into a workout, and for tips on technique, take a look at Sport England’s ‘Get BritainWalking’ campaign at www.sportengland.org.

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The landscape that inspired countless heart-warming tales

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Beatrix Potter’s Grizedale Explore the land of Peter Rabbit, Jemima Puddle-Duck and Mrs Tiggy-Winkle as you trace the steps of the famous author Shortcuts The small town of Hawkshead is a tranquil and picturesque place to begin this fascinating walk, and is also home to The National Trust’s Beatrix Potter Museum. A changing collection of original watercolours, sketches and other artefacts means there’s always something different to see every year. When you’re ready to set off, begin your journey to Beatrix’s home village of Near Sawrey and her house, Hill Top, just down the road from Hawkshead. A short walk along quiet lanes brings you to woodlands and, as you emerge from the trees, you’ll

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find the large Moss Eccles Tarn. Beatrix Potter often came to fish here and the tarn is still well-stocked with brown trout. Next is the remote hamlet of Near Sawrey, where the author lived for 38 years. You’ll soon spot the Tower Bank Arms pub, which not only provides welcome refreshments, but is featured in The Tale of Jemima Puddle-Duck. Just past here is Hill Top, the house where the author wrote

● Aged 15, Beatrix Potter wrote a diary in a secret code. It was eventually cracked 15 years after her death ● Beatrix based many of her characters on childhood pets, such as Benjamin Bouncer and Peter Piper (rabbits), Mrs Tiggy-Winkle (hedgehog), Pig-Wig (pig) and Xarifa (mouse) ● Beatrix fell in love with the Lake District after spending many holidays there as a young girl ● In 1943, Beatrix became the first woman to be elected president of the Herdwick Sheep Breeder’s Association ● Beatrix claimed she was happiest being with her farm animals

Peter Rabbit (above) and his creator Beatrix Potter (left)

● The Tale of Peter Rabbit has been translated into Egyptian hieroglyphics by the British Museum Press ● As popular as ever, The Tale of Mrs Tiggy-Winkle is 100 years old this year


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Directions Distance: 10-12 miles Time needed: 4-5 hours Starting from the central car park in the town of Hawkshead, you may want to head for the tourist information office. Turn right along the high street, and you’ll reach the Beatrix Potter Museum. Returning towards the car park, go straight past and bear right. Then turn left over the hump bridge and fork left at the junction.

Follow the road with care, before you climb the hill to a bridlepath on the right. Proceed down the rocky path through the woodlands for quite a long while, enjoying the scenery around you, before passing a footpath on the left and turning right at a crossroads. Turn right again at another crossroads, emerging from the trees to join another track to Wise Een B and Moss Eccles

E Tarn. C Where the bridlepath forks, go right to Near Sawrey, emerging onto the road which will take you through the village. Beatrix Potter’s house Hill Top D is about 50m up the road going left, just past the Tower Banks Arms pub E (a fine opportunity to stop for a break!). Return the same way or go down the road past the pub, following the signs to Hawkshead.

Lucy Meacock many of her popular books. A delightful 17th-Century stone building, every room contains something featured in a story. The house is just as Beatrix left it and is surrounded by a charming cottage garden containing flowers, herbs, fruits and vegetables. From here, you can return to the town of Hawkshead through the woodlands via the same route, or follow the road, keeping Esthwaite Water to your left, back to the start. ■ For opening times it’s best to check before setting off by phoning 015394 36355 (Beatrix Potter Gallery) and 015394 36269 (Hill Top House), or by visiting www.nationaltrust.org.uk

GRANADA REPORTS

Hill Top (above) and modern sculpture in Grizedale Forest

I go walking every day because I have three dogs that would never forgive me if I didn’t! But there are few things in life that are as easy, more enjoyable – or cheaper! – than walking. We are completely spoilt for choice in the Northwest. I often find that whatever the weather, there’s nothing like a brisk stroll in the beautiful countryside to really lift your spirits and clear your head.

North Lakes DERWENT WATER OS EXP OL4 (S)

There are many easy walks around the idyllic shoreline of Derwent Water, popular with both visitors and locals. The views from Friar’s Crag and Castlehead Wood, for example, provide breathtaking panoramas over Keswick, the lake and the surrounding fells. The Victorian intellectual John Ruskin went so far as to proclaim that the view from Friar’s Crag was one of the finest sights in Europe. It’s Latrigg, however, that’s Keswick’s own personal fell. Its close proximity and steep gradients make it an imposing presence, yet it’s only a modest fell, no more than a third of the height of neighbour Skiddaw. And on a clear day, the views along the length of Borrowdale and the Helvellyn range make the three-hour walk a hugely rewarding experience. ■ For further details visit www.golakes.co.uk or ring 015394 44444 WALK

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Hadrian’s Wall

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Birdoswald Fort, one of 16 Roman fortresses along Hadrian’s Wall, is a stunning World Heritage site, combining superb scenery with wonderful ancient history, set on a hill overlooking the River Irthing. Hadrian’s Wall is the most elaborate of the Roman Empire’s surviving frontier building works, winding 84 miles through some of Northumberland and Cumbria’s finest settings. Birdoswald also offers plenty of opportunity for many other walks. And if you feel inspired by the history around you, there’s also an interactive fort, study and visitor centre at Gilsland in Brampton to explore. If you’re driving here, take the M6 junction 43 at Carlisle and then the A69. ■ Visit www.hadrians-wall.org or ring 01228 817 000 for details

Sir Chris Bonington MOUNTAINEER & WRITER OS EXP OL 4 (S)

One of my favourites is Ullock Pike by its west ridge, on to the top of Skiddaw, down the north ridge, drop down and skirt round walls to return to the start. www. golakes.co.uk WALK

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Just one small stretch of the 84-mile-long Hadrian’s Wall


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ANDY GOLDSWORTHY’S SHEEPFOLDS WALK OS EXP OL2 (W)

One of the most unusual and ambitious art installations in the world is Andy Goldsworthy’s Sheepfolds Project. The internationally renowned artist has created 46 natural stone sculptures using the traditional Cumbrian sheep shelter as his inspiration, all of which can be discovered along a trail from Longtown in the north right down to Kirkby Lonsdale.

The local art appreciation society

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Casterton Fellfoot

Talkin Tarn

Local Heroes

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Described as a small mountain lake, there are plenty of tarns in Cumbria. However, TalkinTarn, the highlight of the Talkin Tarn Country Park, is one of the finest examples in the area. Here you can choose a walk to suit your mood or level of fitness, from a short amble to embarking on the locally famous 50-mile, 24-hour Kennedy Challenge. The tarn, which reaches a depth of 42ft, was formed more than 10,000 years ago by glaciers and is fed by underwater springs. If you fancy getting out onto the water there are boats for hire nearby. ■ Visit www.historic-carlisle.org.uk or ring 01228 817 000 for details

Wendi Peters CILLA BROWN,CORONATION STREET

I love walking, especially with my springer spaniel Edison. I’m going to make a big effort to get out and do some of the walks featured in this guide and visit places in the Northwest I’ve not been to before.

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Part-funded by the Cumbria Council and taking seven years to complete, the project found Goldsworthy working with existing dilapidated sheepfolds made of locally quarried stone, while also building towering conical creations from scratch. Start and end at the Pheasant Inn in Casterton for a four-mile walk taking around 90 minutes. ■ Visit www.sheepfolds.org or ring 01768 353 350 for details

Considering the walking options at Talkin Tarn

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Solway Coast

a haven for plant, bird and animal SILLOTH OS EXP 314 life. And even if you’re not an avid twitcher, you’ll enjoy the views The coastal route from the across the estuary to Scottish hills. Victorian seaside town of Silloth Then there are the spectacular up to Skinburness and on to Grune sunsets, which inspired the English Point neatly encapsulates the painter JMW Turner. Time your natural beauty and unique return walk to coincide with the landscape of the Solway Coast. evening sky’s rich display of colour. Along this gentle stroll, you’ll gaze out over rolling sand dunes ■ Visit www.golakes.co.uk or ring and vast inter-tidal salt marshes – 015394 44444 for more details

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ITV’s Local Heroes campaign on Granada Reports was another successful element of Britain OnThe Move (see p4). ITV Granada’s Local Hero is 15-yearold Jordan Dean from Burnley. Jordan has set up initiatives to build bridges between young people of different ethnic groups. Part of TheYear of the Volunteer and aimed at encouraging people to become volunteers in their communities Local Heroes has been a huge success. A bird’s-eye view of Silloth

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■ CUMBRIA The picturesque village of Cartmel

On Location Paul McGann and Richard E Grant weren’t the only stars of the 1987 cult comedy classic Withnail & I – the Cumbrian scenery was pretty impressive, too. In the film, the pair of scruffy out-of-work London actors stay at a remote cottage, Crow Crag (real name: Sleddale Hall) near the village of Shap. A great nearby walk is along Wet Sleddale Reservoir and Mardale Common. Or if you want to recapture a more romantic cinematic moment, try Blackwell at Bowness-onWindermere, which was the location for the closing scenes of the 1981 blockbuster The French Lieutenant’s Woman. More recently, Killing Me Softly (2002) with Joseph Fiennes was filmed at Tarn Hows, while scenes for If Only (2004) with Jennifer Love Hewitt were shot in Borrowdale. ■ Visit www. golakes.co.uk or ring 015394 44444 for details

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Lying in the Irish Sea close to Barrow-in-Furness, Walney Island is one of the finest birdwatching sites in Cumbria. Although it’s a thin sliver of land barely 11 miles long, the island has been shaped by the wind and tides, creating

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Gastronome’s Delight HUMPHREY HEAD & CARTMEL OS EXP OL 7 (S)

Humphrey Head, the tallest limestone cliff in Cumbria and allegedly home to the last wolves in England in the 14thCentury, not only offers a wealth of scenic delights but delicious gastronomic treats in neighbouring Cartmel. A rigorous, signposted circular climb of the famous headland with panoramic views of Morecambe Bay and the surrounding fells is the perfect appetiser for the local culinary delights, from Witherslack Damson Cobblers to a rich variety of natural habitats that attract and support an abundance of wildlife. Just six miles from Barrow, at the southern tip of the island, the South Walney nature reserve offers a range of marked trails that provide walkers with wonderful views of the birds that either breed on the island or simply use it as a handy stopover on their migratory

Cumberland Rum Nickys. For bold, inventive cuisine, there’s L’Enclume, one of Cumbria’s four one-star Michelin restaurants which was recently completely booked out by Chelsea FC. Equally impressive is the Cartmel Village Shop, a fine food store and home of the original sticky toffee pudding. Also don’t miss the distinctive local ales from Jennings Brothers. Founded in 1828 and based in Cockermouth, it uses Walney Island: one for the birdwatchers

traditional brewing methods and pure lakeland water to produce delicious beers to cater for all tastes. With real ales called Sneck Lifter, Cocker Hoop and Crag Rat, how can you resist? ■ Visit www.golakes.co.uk/taste or ring L’Enclume (015395 36362); Cartmel Village Shop (015395 36201) and Jennings Brewery (0845 129 7185) for more details passage. Trails take in sand dunes, salt pools, mud flats and shingle ridges, each with their own fascinating character and view of the birds’ habitat. And for sheer spectacle, don’t leave without seeing the island’s lesser blackbacked and herring gulls – one of the largest colonies in Europe. ■ Visit www.barrowbc.gov.uk or ring 01229 894 784 for details

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The Jack 12 Diamond Path

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Off the beaten track, but worth tackling if you’re feeling energetic, is the Jack Diamond Path up Coniston Old Man, which covers a distance of about eight miles and takes around five hours. It’s named after local teacher Jack Diamond, a member of the Coniston Tigers climbing club, who died aged 45 in 1956. His story is immortalised in Harry Griffin’s book The Coniston Tigers. The path begins at Coniston Lodge Hotel or Jumping Jenny’s at Brantwood and then follows a wonderfully enjoyable graded route up the southeast flank of Coniston Old Man in a series of cairn-marked zigzags. It’s easy to follow and avoids the quarry that spoils the tourist route just round the fellside. It comes out onto the tourist path a short distance under the summit and delivers you directly to the best viewpoint in the south Lake District. Once you’ve reached the summit, a trip round Brim Fell, Dow Crag, Buck Pike, Brown Pike, and along the Walna Scar Road, will complete the perfect mountain day. You’ll also encounter all manner of terrain, including woodland, moorland, high mountain ridges and exposed col along your journey. ■ Visit www.golakes.co.uk or ring 015394 44444 for more details

Donald Campbell:The 300mph man Speed was Donald Campbell’s life-long obsession. In his 45-year career, he notched up seven world water speed records – a huge achievement on its own – and even more impressive when you find out that he survived a hideous crash in 1951 driving at 170 mph. He was also the first person in the

world to hold land and water speed records at the same time in 1964. When he crashed on Coniston Water in 1967 while pursuing the world water speed record, his boat, the Bluebird, lifted out of the water, somersaulted and disintegrated upon landing on the water’s surface. His body

was only recovered in 2001, and his funeral eventually held in September of that year. ■ The Ruskin Museum in Coniston displays a wide range of Campbell memorabilia, as well as exhibits on local industry. Visit www.ruskinmuseum.com or ring 015394 41164 for details

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■ CUMBRIA WALK

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Lakeland music Lake District Summer Music This festival, which takes place every summer, brings international artists to some of the world’s most scenic locations. It’s also the widest-spread music festival in the UK, with events from Carlisle to Keswick and many towns in between. (July/August) Keswick Jazz Festival This world-famous festival features more than 90 jazz events in Keswick and the surrounding area. There’s a wide range of styles, from traditional to modern, while venues range from town centre bars to hotels, churches and even the streets, creating a real carnival atmosphere. (May) Ulverston Music Festival Ulverston-born pianist Anthony Hewitt was inspired as a boy by the world-class pianists he saw at the Grizedale Piano Festival. When the event closed, Hewitt started his own festival, inviting renowned musicians for a series of concerts. (June)

Alistair Mann SPORTS PRESENTER, ITV GRANADA OS EXP WALK

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15 I adore walking and am notorious for my speed. I’m no stroller – just ask my dog Bart, a Lhasa Apso, a breed with short legs, who’s always excited as I gather the lead at the beginning, but normally flakes out by the end! My favourite Northwest walks almost all take me alongside water. Strolling along the banks of Lake Windermere in places like Bowness is a pleasure, with the truly amazing scenery an added bonus. www. golakes.co.uk 16

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Steam work: Let the train take the strain

Train and Trek MUNCASTER & ESKDALE OS EXP OL 6 (N)

OK, so part of this route is by locomotive, but it’s hard to pass up the treat of riding aboard the narrow gauge Ravenglass and Eskdale Railway. If you’re lucky you may even meet the Water Vole Stationmaster! This ride hugely enriches the experience, for young and old, and sets you up for a wonderfully varied walk through mountain, moor, river, forest and coast. After leaving Ravenglass station, the track first crosses Barrow Marsh, before winding its way along the side of Muncaster Fell with the River Mite flowing 60ft below. There’s time to enjoy some

Haweswater Lake: one of Cumbria’s best-kept secrets

superb views of the Scafells before the train arrives at Irton Road Station. From here, it’s time to stride up the – occasionally boggy – side of Muncaster Fell and make an unforgettable return journey along the top. There are a number of places along the path with stunning panoramic views to all points, while the remote and hugely dramatic setting of Muncaster is also well worth making time for. But take care: many people say it’s haunted… ■ Visit www.golakes.co.uk or ring 015394 44444 for more details

Muncaster

The Secret 14 Lake

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Walk around Haweswater when water levels are low and you can see walls and bridges belonging to the villages of Mardale and Measand, which were flooded by a 120ft high concrete dam in 1929 to create a reservoir for Manchester. All the farms and houses were demolished and coffins removed from the graveyards before the level of the lake was raised. This least-known Cumbrian lake is also home to the only pair of breeding golden eagles in England. At four miles long, it’s the ideal place for a short stroll. One walk of four miles climbs 1,800ft, starting at the car park at the western end of the reservoir. It includes a relatively easy ascent of Harter Fell, with a superb walk down from Nan Bield Pass back to the start. ■ Visit www.golakes.co.uk or ring 015394 44444 for more details

23/8/05 8:55:01 am


THE RIBBLE VALLEY Walking in Lancashire, there’s always another magnificent view just around the bend

Lancashire Inside this section

From an adventurous walk, slap bang in the centre of Britain and the surprise delights of a sculpture trail, to waterside walks along rivers and canals that reveal both the secrets of the countryside and our industrial heritage – Lancashire offers it all

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P18 Dunsop Bridge

P25 Blackpool & Salthill

P20 Irwell Sculpture Trail

P26 Hoghton Gorge

P22 Bilsborrow

P27 Wycoller Park

P23 River Lune

P28 Nabs Head

P24 Pendle Hill

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■ LANCASHIRE

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Middle Earth The closest village to the centre of the British Isles, Dunsop Bridge is the ideal starting point for this challenging and exciting walk

For a good, solid day’s walk full of exciting challenges and rewards, this adventurous trek will work wonders. The exact geographical centre of the British Isles is marked by Dunsop Bridge’s humble BT phone box, with its special number and decorated doors. Making your way over grassy fields, you’ll visit delightfully rustic and remote old farm buildings, such as Back of Hill Barn and Rough Syke Barn, with only the sounds of grazing farm animals breaking the peace. Find your way over the little stone steps of the hand-built walls lining the fields, before reaching Dunsop Fell. As you ascend, appreciate the scenery unfolding behind you. There are spectacular panoramic views north and east, to Stocks Reservoir and Gisburn Forest in the distance. This, as any regular walker knows, is what makes the climbing worthwhile. On Dunsop Fell’s moorlands, you’re on high ground. The path is well marked, but take a compass and Explorer map if you’re unsure of the area and give the walk proper consideration if there’s a threat of poor weather.

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Take a break and let your feet breathe

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Directions Distance: 12 miles Time needed: 4-5 hours Turn right out of the car park, passing the phone box and going over a humped bridge. Take the second road on the right (just after the sharp right-hand bend). Follow this past a farm and down to the river, crossing the wooden bridge. Climb the wooden steps up the rise on your left. Walk straight over the field to Beatrix Farm, turning left along the track just before you get there, and through a gate past a second farmhouse on your right. Follow the track to its end, by Back of

As you descend, you’ll see Whitendale Farm nestling in the base of the valley beside Dunsop River. Follow the river downstream and escape for a few moments in a tranquil hillside gorge, with only the sounds of birds and the water rushing beneath you. Later, you’ll come to the water pipeline from the Lake District to Manchester, and several Water Board buildings, before unwinding in the homely village tea shop. ■ For details ring 01772 534 140 or go to www.forestofbowland.com

Source: Ordnance Survey Crown Copyright, All Rights Reserved. GD: SD 668530 - OS EXP OL 41 (W)

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A Hill Barn B . Looking Northeast, you should see Rough Syke Barn on the distant hillside. Follow the footpath through a gate, across a field and over a stream, then up the hill to the barn. The path forks in two similar directions – follow the left-hand path, slightly harder to make out. At the stone wall, find the built-in steps C and cross over. Pass the ruins to your left, cross another wall, another field, and climb wooden steps, passing Brunghill Moor Farm on your left. Take the track away to the road and turn left. Follow the road until you reach a

Shortcuts ● BT installed the ‘Centre of Britain’ phone box on Dunsop Bridge’s village green in 1992 to mark the centre of the British Isles and included a plaque to explain its significance. However, some say it’s actually 4.2 miles from the true centre! ● The pipeline running alongside the Dunsop River takes water from Thirlmere Reservoir in the Lake District to Manchester ● You’ll ascend 1420ft over the course of the 12-mile walk, giving you some great views from the top

bridlepath on the left going to Burn Side. Follow the driveway and pass to the right of Burn Side. Walk through a field and a small gate and begin ascent to Dunsop Head D . Follow the path over the top, through a small gate, down to Whitendale Farm. E At the farm’s first walls, turn left to the path that follows the river south. Past a couple of gates and bridges, it crosses the river. Turn left and follow it to the bridge you crossed near the start. Cross over and pass the steps F . Pass a farm to your left, and follow the track back to the village.

Best foot forward Healthy feet make walking a pleasure, not a penance. Follow these easy guidelines and your feet will thank you. OUTWITH THE OLD Use a good foot file or pumice stone to get rid of any build-up of old skin, but don’t overdo it, as hard skin acts as a protector and you don’t want to overtenderise the areas that will be doing most of the hard work. NAIL THE PROBLEM Ensure toenails are trimmed and cut straight across. The throb of an ingrowing toenail will spoil the shortest stroll. If in doubt, get an appointment with a chiropodist. AVOID BLISTERS If you feel a ‘hot spot’ on your feet when walking, stop and sort the problem out. It could be a fold or seam in your sock causing the irritation. Clean and dry thoroughly and apply Vaseline to the affected area. BOOTS MADE FOR WALKING You need footwear that’s light, durable and with rubber soles to avoid slipping. If your longest toe touches the front of the boot, it’s either too short or you haven’t done your laces up properly. There should be little or no side-to-side movement within the boot.

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22/8/05 9:42:00 am


■ LANCASHIRE

In the Picture: one of the artworks on the route

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Sculpture trail This surprising Lancashire stroll offers striking works of art positioned along a beautiful stretch of countryside

Shortcuts Bold and bizarre sculptures hidden in the Lancashire countryside, a winding river and a working steam railway – surprise yourself as you follow this short but scenic section of the Irwell Sculpture Trail. Stretching for 30 miles, from Salford to the Pennines, this is the largest public art scheme in the UK, including 28 large, intriguing artworks. Ramsbottom includes two such sculptures: the heavy, permanent

feeling of the bronze ‘Tilted Vase’ fountain is complemented by its gentle flow of water. Recalling the industrial revolution, its creator Edward Allington calls it a “monument to that past and a symbol of continuity and change for the future.” ‘The River’, meanwhile, is an 88-metre path winding through a number of smaller works that were created by the local people, ending in a viewing platform

● The trail continues to Rawtenstall, where you can still catch the train back to Ramsbottom. You can see sculptures like ‘Whispering Wall’ and ‘Bocholt Tree’ on the extra 2.5-mile walk

Chuffed: the steam train is popular with walkers

● The original railway line was opened in 1846 but closed in 1972. Thanks to the East Lancashire Preservation Society, it was reopened in 1991 ● ‘Tilted Vase’ weighs two tonnes and has been bolted together to give the appearance of a machine ● ‘In the Picture’ is suggestive of 18th- and 19th-Century landscape painting, while the nearby carvings relate to valley industries and the loom-wreckers’ rebellion at Chatterton Mill in 1826

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Directions railway to your left. ‘Remnant Kings’ D is just before the kissing gate, up the hillside on Turn left from the right. Ramsbottom’s East Turn left through the Lancashire Railway station up Bridge Street subway under the to Market Place and the railway. Turn right along the riverside. Cross the amazing ‘Tilted Vase’ river at Lumb Bridge and sculpture . Return to the station then turn right along the and cross over the level riverbank. At the end of Bowker crossing. ‘The River’ B Street turn right along is on the left, at Wharf Aitken Street and over Picnic Site. the bridge to Irwell Vale Turn left along station. Steam trains Kenyon Street, then go return to Ramsbottom. through the gate and If you have time in over the fields. Bear left Ramsbottom, why not through a gate along visit the ‘Seek and You a track. Will Find’ sculptures in At Stubbins, cross Bolton Road North and Nuttall Park? Black pudding isn’t for the Follow Railway then go left over the faint-hearted (or veggies) Street south, past the footbridge. Turn right among us. Consisting of cooked through the recreational station and haulage public gardens, then the depot. Turn left, crossing pig’s blood, fat, rusk and cubes the river and then going allotments, following of fat stuffed in a length of underneath the railway. the river. Walk diagonally into Turn right along intestine, it’s not surprising this Nuttall Park. the road and the track – cough – delicacy, isn’t top of On the bandstand is beside the river. everyone’s culinary wish list. a map telling you the Cross a bridge and sculptures’ locations. immediately turn left The recipe harks back to a through a gate. time when everyone kept After the next Ramsbottom livestock at home and river bend is the steam power sculpture called hardworking folk had black C ‘In the Picture’ . pudding to look forward to Follow the path between the after a long day in the fields, railway and Alder but we have the ancient Bottom, with the Distance: 3.5 miles Time: 1-2 hours

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Source: Ordnance Survey Crown Copyright, All Rights Reserved. GD: SD 793187 - OS EXP 287

The Black Stuff

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for the steam railway. There are also poems about the river and an illustrated story about Jacob’s Ladder, a local beauty spot. Leaving the town, follow the winding river towards Irwell Vale. En route, you’ll find many more sculptures intriguingly planted within the landscape. ‘In the Picture’ is a strangely alluring, enormous picture frame made of European larch and elmwood. As you walk around it, an ever-changing snapshot of the surrounding area and the nearby carvings is created – art and nature in a perfect balance.

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Further on is ‘Remnant Kings’, giant ash-wood timbers resting upon semicircular steel cogs. Suggestive of the area’s industrial heritage and seemingly about to move, artist Ian Randall says it’s: “watching over its kingdom, waiting for its chance to scatter”. From Irwell Vale, the East Lancashire Steam Railway is a memorable way to return to Ramsbottom. Trains run on weekends but for times call in advance on 0161 764 7790 or visit www.east-lancs-rly.co.uk. ■ Call 0161 228 1400 or visit www.irwellsculpturetrail.co.uk

Denis Law LEGENDARY FORMER PLAYER MANCHESTER UNITED

I’m trying to make people aware that if they go out and do a little bit of walking it’s going to be great for their health. When you look back to the past when very few people had cars, everybody walked. We need to remind people that they should be walking more and using their cars less.

Greeks to thank for inventing it! For many of us, a cooked breakfast wouldn’t be the same without a few slices of this sausage. It has so many fans that it’s celebrated at The World Black Pudding Throwing Championship, hosted every year by the Royal Oak pub in Ramsbottom to mark the ancient rivalry between Lancashire and Yorkshire. Contestants have to throw black puddings at a stack of Yorkshire puds perched on the pub’s roof – whoever fells the most is the winner!

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■ LANCASHIRE

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The ever peaceful Lancaster Canal

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Wander round Grasmere and you’ll soon discover how Lakeland poet William Wordsworth

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Tranquil Bilsborrow Thatched buildings and cobbled yards, a historic canal and aqueduct and the promise of a feast at the end – this lazy walk has everything

Bilsborrow, the start and finish point for this four-mile walk, is on the Lancaster Canal between the A6 and the Preston to Lancaster railway. Its hub is Guy’s and Owd Nell’s, a jumble of thatched buildings containing restaurants, bars, accommodation and sports facilities, that’s grown up partly due to the increased use of the canal – there are moorings and a marina here, too. It’s unashamedly commercial, but Guy’s makes an excellent start to a lazy walk around the tranquil farmland lanes by the canal and the river Brock. The lure of the excellent pizzas made here may

even persuade teenagers out of their bedrooms for a ramble. Leaving the Cricket and Bowling Pavilion car park at Guy’s, you cross a little footbridge over a stream and step briefly into a bygone age, with a cobbled lane lined with craft shops and a flagstone-paved square. This stone probably arrived via the Lancaster Canal, which carried cargoes from Preston in the south and Kendal in the north. Look out around the bridges on the canal towpath for grey wagtails, which announce themselves with a flash of yellow accompanied by a quick, cheerful chirrup.

Owd Nell’s: the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow

It’s rather bizarre to stand on an aqueduct and look down on a river where normally there would be a road, but that’s what you do at the Brock Aqueduct, where the canal crosses the River Brock. There’s a weir to the right, where engineers lowered the level of the river to

ensure the aqueduct had sufficient strength to take the canal. Keep an eye out for the white bib and tails of dippers, who love the shallow, rocky habitat. You may even be lucky enough to see a kingfisher. After the ruins of Matshead Paper Mill, the route crosses land

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Thirlmere Aqueduct’s pungent bluebells and (below) the famous Eric Morecambe statue

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Directions Distance: 4 miles Time needed: 2 hours From Guy’s cricket pavilion car park, cross footbridge over Bacchus Brook, go through School House Square and turn left onto towpath. Or join the footpath at Owd Nell’s. Follow Lancaster Canal under Bridge 45 to Brock Aqueduct. Continue along towpath, passing milestone. At Bridge 47 B (every bridge along the canal has a number) go up the steps and onto the pavement. Turn left and follow the pavement beside the A6 until you reach a post box and fingerpost.

belonging to Bilsborrow Hall Farm, which dates back to the 17thCentury. Heading back towards Bilsborrow, good views emerge to the north and east of Beacon Fell. The curious octagonal building is the Pot House, and may have been used for making clay pots before it became a Wesleyan chapel. The path leads back through the village to the towpath, where Guy’s and Owd Nell’s beckon. ■ Visit www.wyrebc.gov.uk or call 01253 891 000 for information

Turn left here C and follow track to railway crossing. Cross with care. Continue along the path, which meets the River Brock; pass under the M6 bridge. Follow track up to an aluminium footbridge. Cross bridge D over the River Brock. At fingerpost, take footpath ahead through the ruins of Matshead Paper Mill. Cross a cobbled yard and go through a gap to the left of the garage. Go through gate and cross stile. Cross field to another stile. Follow footpath along the edge of the field, through a metal gate, across a wooden footbridge at Bull Brook and then along a concrete footpath to Bilsborrow Hall Farm.

Shortcuts ● Bilsborrow was referred to in the 1086 Domesday Book as ‘Bilevurd’ ● One of the oldest buildings in the area is Matshead Farm, located beside the River Brock. It was built in 1618 ● The Lancaster Canal was first used in 1797. After a century and a half, its last cargo was transported in 1947 ●When the canal was built, it wasn’t connected to the national canal network. Since 2000, boats have been able to easily navigate the Millennium Ribble Link to reach another 2000 miles of waterway

Go through the farmyard, taking care to shut all gates behind you, onto Bilsborrow Lane E . Turn right, following Bilsborrow Lane over the motorway bridge. Continue along the pavement past the Wesleyan Methodist Chapel. Follow the pavement over Bilsborrow Lane Bridge. Immediately after the railway bridge, take the road on your right, Church Lane F . Follow the pavement past St. Hilda’s. At the A6 turn right, cross at the road island and continue a short way up the road. Turn left into Myerscough Hall Drive, go over canal at Bridge 45 G , down the steps and follow towpath back to Owd Nell’s.

No work and all play on the canal

Source: Ordnance Survey Crown Copyright, All Rights Reserved. GD: SD 513403 - OS EXP 286

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Valley views LUNE VALLEY OS EXP 296

The River Lune rises in the Northwest Pennine foothills and flows past Lancaster to Morecambe Bay. Those with the time and energy can explore the whole area on the 16-mile Lune Valley ramble, but for a varied and easy family walk, make for the Crook O’ Lune picnic site, on a horseshoe bend in the river. (The car park has disabled facilities and toilets.) The views from this spot captivated landscape artist JWW Turner and inspired the poet Ruskin to rhapsodise – he called them “divine”. A walk upstream goes past 18th- and 19th-Century mills, and through ancient woodlands with superb, pungent displays of bluebells and wild garlic in spring under Thirlmere Aqueduct. You’ll also pass through tranquil landscapes with pastures farmed since the age of the Norse settlers. ■ For further information ring 01524 32878 or visit www.lancashire. gov.uk WALK

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■ LANCASHIRE The picturesque village of Cartmel

Following a path to ancient burial sites

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Mystery and legend

were tried and executed in 1612 (see below). You never know, a walk up Pendle Hill might even prove a life-changing experience – in 1652, George Fox was so inspired, he had a vision of “a great people waiting to be enlightened and gathered in.” After that, he went on to form the Quaker movement… ■ Call 01282 661 685 or visit www.lancashireshillcountry.co.uk for further information

PENDLE HILL OS EXP OL 41 (E) / OS EXP OL 21 (N)

Rising out of the wild heather-clad landscape, the imposing Pendle Hill dominates the surrounding Pendle countryside, its distinctive profile visible for many miles. The spectacular views across to the Forest of Bowland, the Irish Sea and the Yorkshire Dales are reason enough to strike out from the village of Barley for the steady climb to the top.

But Pendle Hill offers more than just great views – it’s also clothed in mystery and legend. Ancient Britons are believed to have made the same journey to bury their dead at the summit and there’s a Bronze Age burial site known as the Beacon at the very summit of the hill. Pendle is traditionally linked to the infamous Pendle witches who

The Pendle Witches The bizarre trial and execution of the Pendle Witches in 1612 is one of the most fascinating and notorious tales of witchcraft in British history. The story starts in Pendle in March 1612, when local woman Alizon Device cursed a pedlar who refused to sell her some pins and he collapsed by the side of the

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road. Convinced that she was the cause, she openly confessed to bewitching him and he forgave her. But his son heard about this and alerted the local magistrate. Questioned, she confessed to the crime and even implicated members of her own and another local family. They in turn were questioned about their alleged

Bruce Jones ‘LES BATTERSBY’, CORONATION STREET

My wife and I own dogs, so we do a lot of walking. It’s one of the best forms of exercise you can do – a fast walk to get your heart rate up then a slow walk to get it down again!

witchcraft and they amazingly admitted to their evil deeds. All four were jailed in Lancaster Castle, but after further enquiries unearthed a meeting of witches, further arrests were inevitable. And so, in August 1612, a total of 10 people were found guilty of murder by witchcraft and hanged at Lancaster Gaol.

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The bright lights of Blackpool

Seaside 21 special

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Batty about bats Bat-spotting in Lancashire

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Flash, brash, glitzy – with over 16.5 million visitors a year, Blackpool is rightly famous for its entertainment. Part of the Blackpool experience is the Tower, built as an answer to the Eiffel Tower and opened in 1894. Ride to the top and gaze out over the Irish sea or tread the 320ft high clear-floored Walk of Faith. Blackpool’s three Victorian piers remain a nostalgic part of Britain’s seaside heritage. And don’t leave without strolling along the front, either to relax by the sea, take in the bustling Golden Mile or get your adrenalin fix on The Pleasure Beach’s roller coasters. Even in this town you can get away from it all – the Blackpool Countryside Experience consists of a series of nature walks, from a short stroll to a more challenging ramble. Start from Stanley Park through the Woodland Gardens, around Heron’s Reach, linking to Marton Mere Nature Reserve. Or head to Blackpool Model Village and Gardens to view the handcrafted models set in 2.5 acres of award-winning landscaped gardens. Whatever you do, Blackpool can’t be beaten for fun. ■ Visit www.blackpooltourism.com or ring 01253 478 222 for details.

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Quarry Reserve 22 Salthill CLITHEROE OS EXP OL 41 (E)

Salthill Quarry is internationally renowned for its fascinating geological formations and visitors – particularly children – will delight in spotting the fossilised tubes of crinoids (sea lilies) that are believed to be 340 million years old. But this disused limestone quarry, just one mile to the Northeast of Clitheroe, is also

home to a variety of interesting wild plants. The trails lead through a range of soil conditions, and the identification of the specific plants that each soil-type supports makes for a rewarding addition to a very pleasant walk. In the Southeast corner of the reserve, plants such as bee orchid, milkwort and autumn gentian are

Bats have had a bad press over the years, mainly thanks to Dracula movies, which tend to portray them as sinister, bloodsucking creatures of the night. However, these furry little creatures deserve our respect as they make a valuable contribution to our environment, pollinating plants and eating up to 3,000 insects a night – believe it or not, they’re not interested in human plasma. Although there are 17 species in the UK, their numbers are declining at an alarming rate, due to loss of roost sites through inappropriate building and tree felling, and increased use of pesticides, which kill insects. Despite this, you may be rewarded with a glimpse of them if you keep your eyes peeled. Pipistrelle bats roost at the Salthill Quarry Reserve, so stay until dusk and you may be in luck. And don’t worry, there are no vampires in the area! ■ For further information, call The Bat Conservation Trust on 020 7627 2629 or the UK Bat Helpline on 0845 1300 228

well-adapted to the sparse soil, whereas cowslips, wild strawberry, and lady’s bedstraw occupy the more established conditions. Naturally, the reserve is rich in insect and bird life. During the summer, time your visit for the late afternoon when the sky will be filled with swifts and later, if you’re lucky, pipistrelle bats. ■ Visit www.wildlifetrusts.org or call 0870 036 7711 for details

Can you spot the 340-million-yearold crinoids?

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■ LANCASHIRE WALK Industrial 23 strength

Town and country routes by canal

LEEDS & LIVERPOOL CANAL OS EXP 285 (E)

The Leeds and Liverpool Canal is the longest in Britain, stretching for an incredible 127 miles. Fully opened in 1816, it was responsible for bringing prosperity to the towns of Wigan and Leigh, and promoted the area’s key two industries: coal and cotton. Evidence of these industries can be seen along the banks of the canal, which offer a blend of town and country walks. In Wigan, a Heritage Trail guides you through the town’s rich industrial past. Another interesting towpath walk will take you from the Ring O’Bells pub near the village of Burscough, on the A59 between Liverpool and Preston, via Prescott bridge and the Rufford stretch of the canal, back to the Ring O’ Bells pub. The path passes through old canal cottage settlements that give a nostalgic impression of what the working canal must have been like. ■ For further information go to www.waterscape.com or phone 01925 847 700 WALK Gorgeous 24 river scenes

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Hoghton Gorge is a great spot for wildlife

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A walk through the River Darwen Gorge at Hoghton doesn’t have to be very long to show the best of the landscape. Reached via Hoghton on the A675, the valley can sometimes be muddy. There are several pubs where you can

start your walk, including the Royal Oak at Riley Green at Hoghton Bottoms. Trails here take you from rich, open farmland with views of Hoghton Towers, past a weir, a viaduct, a ruined quarry cottage and a restored 18th-Century house and mill. Higher Mill was powered by water from the river, and the channel that guided

water from the Darwen to the cloth mill can still be seen. Look out for animals on the wooded slopes of the valley; sika and roe deer, fox, mink and voles all live in the area. Wild flowers are also abundant with Himalayan balsam, flag iris and foxglove forming stunning natural displays. ■ See www.lancashiretourism.com or call 01257 226 600 for details

22/8/05 10:07:23 am


Walk off excess energy in Williamson Park

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Should you live within striking distance of Lancaster and have a houseful of children who need to work off some excess energy, head for Williamson Park, just a few minutes’ drive from junction 33 or 34 of the M6. There’s something happening all year round, including exciting falconry demonstrations, theatre performances and a series of Christmas carol concerts in December at the park’s superb

The local art appreciation society

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icing sugar landmark, the Ashton Memorial. A stroll in the park reveals stunning views of Morecambe Bay, 54 acres of woodland walkways, a lake and waterfall, an Edwardian butterfly house, a cave full of reptiles and creepycrawlies and a free-flying bird enclosure. As a family day out, this just can’t fail. ■ Call 01524 33318 or visit www.williamsonpark.com

The 16th-Century Wycoller Hall and (left) Emily Brontë

WYCOLLER COUNTRY PARK

To walk in pretty Wycoller Country Park is to immerse yourself in the world of the Brontë sisters. Many nearby landmarks feature in Wuthering Heights and Jane Eyre. The park has many footpaths which lead to beauty spots such as Bank House, Wycoller Beck and the 16th-Century Wycoller Hall – thought to be the model for Ferndean Manor in Jane Eyre. These walks are best enjoyed at a leisurely stroll to appreciate the surroundings, imagining how they were woven into the Brontës’ much-loved novels. OS EXP OL 21 (N) ■ Visit www.lancashire.gov.uk or ring 01772 534 709 for information A bird’s eye view of Silloth

The fever-reducing Yarrow flower

Hoghton Flowers Some of Hoghton Gorge’s plants have unusual properties. For instance, butterbur, so called because its wide leaves were once used to wrap butter, has been successfully used in hayfever prevention trials, while yellowgreen pineapple mayweed smells strongly of pineapple and may

have been used to mask powerful odours in medieval times. Yarrow was used to staunch bleeding and reduce fevers. In the 17th-Century its feathery leaves were popular in salads: it was also used to flavour beer and spirits. The white-letter hairstreak caterpillar finds the creeping

thistle to its liking, and those with adventurous tastes might want to see if yellow flag iris rhizomes makes tasty coffee, as reputed. Himalayan balsam is a purely entertaining plant. But beware: when you touch its ripe seed pods, they simply explode with a pop, showering seeds everywhere.

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■ LANCASHIRE Happiness is a 27 perfect hamlet

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NABS HEAD VILLAGE OS EXP 287

Nabs Head Village, off the A59 between Preston and Blackburn, is one of Lancashire’s real secrets. It’s tailor-made for an enjoyable four-and-a-half mile walk. It’s an idyllic hamlet on the peaceful River Darwen, where you will find the Nabs Head pub – the perfect start and end point for a walk taking in some of the most beautiful countryside in the area. Some areas are quite steep, as the footpaths drop down sharply to the river and the routes can be muddy, but the views of Darwen Tower and Hoghton Tower (a handsome fortified Renaissance building with links to William Shakespeare) and out to Preston and the sea, are worth the scramble. And who could resist a walk through such an exotic-sounding location as Wild Bottom’s Wood? ■ Visit www.southribble.gov.uk or ring 01772 421491 for more details

JRR Tolkien: inspired by the Ribble Valley

Hobbit heaven

Sally Lindsay ‘SHELLEY UNWIN’, CORONATION STREET

I think Britain On The Move is a great idea.We don’t do enough exercise.I’ve got horrible visions of us turning into America where there’s too much food and people aren’t

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doing enough exercise.I love the idea of walking buses for school kids.How many kids get into cars to go to school? Walking to school is a great way to keep you and your kids healthy.

Part of the Forest of Bowland, and an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, the Ribble Valley is hailed as a great source of inspiration for JRR Tolkien’s The Lord Of The Rings. The trilogy took him 16 long years to complete and was finally published in 1954/55. Tolkien frequently visited his son at the 16th-Century Jesuit Stonyhurst College in Hurst Green during the period he wrote his most famous work. The geographical locations and place names in the books directly correspond with those surrounding Hurst Green, but to decide for yourself, take the magical Tolkien Trail. This circular walk takes in Pendle Hill and a few historic buildings and rivers. It’s clear Tolkien based his vision on the landscapes he called home. ■ For more information call 01200 425 566

22/8/05 10:12:50 am


TOWER POWER AT THE LOWRY Take the long walk to the summit of the spiralling steel tower at The Quays

Greater

Manchester Inside this section

Some of the most influential bands ever came out of this city, and along with its hip bars and clubs, Manchester deserves its party central tag. But you can also explore its rich industrial past and escape the hustle and bustle on some amazing valley walks

NW p29 Manc.indd 2

P30 Musical legacy P32 The Quays P33 Lever Park P34 Industrial revolution P36 Saddleworth Park

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I GREATER MANCHESTER

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Its unrivalled musical legacy, wild nightlife and fashionable bars make Manchester one of the most exciting cities to spend some time in RWA PE

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Walk in the footsteps of your musical heroes

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G-Mex, Central Manchester

Tony Morris If you’re a big music fan, a walk around Manchester city centre is essential. The Town Hall hosted the farewell party for Take That in the mid-‘90s, while the Sex Pistols cut their teeth at the Free Trade Hall in 1976. And Bob Dylan received insults of “Judas” for daring to play rock ‘n’ roll here in 1966. The G-Mex also played host to many of the city’s biggest bands until the ‘90s, such as The Smiths and New Order, while the Ritz was the location of the first Smiths concert in 1982. The Cornerhouse cinema, which also includes a café and a bar, was the hangout of various bands before a night

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out at the Hacienda, while up the road, the adjoining Music Box and Rockworld were where Joy Division played in the ‘70s as Warsaw, before being signed. A cool hangout is the Northern Quarter near Piccadilly Gardens, as

A city of 24-hour party people

it’s full of shops and cafés. Nearby Afflecks Palace is a must, with four floors of music-related artefacts. Another hive of music activity is Oldham Street’s Night & Day. This is the place where many of Manchester’s bands started out. Rowdy rockers Liam Gallagher and Shaun Ryder, meanwhile, have the dubious distinction of being banned from the nearby Dry Bar, where you can find tributes to Manchester’s musical heroes engraved in the pavement. One of the busiest concert venues in the world is the MEN Arena. Past performers include Kylie and REM, and in 2004, the city’s own Morrissey.

PRESENTER, ITV GRANADA

I love Hollingworth Lake, on the outskirts of Rochdale, which takes some beating for a fantastic walk. It’s a two-mile circuit around a gorgeous stretch of water. And there’s a fish and chip shop where they make the most amazing milkshakes I’ve ever tasted outside an American diner. The great thing about a good walk is that it’s easy, it chills you out, it’s cheap and most people can have a go. Call 01706 864 928. WALK

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Directions Distance: 4 miles Time needed: 2 hours Turn down Mount Street, to the right of theTown Hall as you face it. On Peter Street, the Free Trade Hall B is off to the right on the opposite side. Cross Peter Street and pass G-Mex. C As you cross the tram lines, head south down Lower Mosley Street. Turn left along Whitworth Street at the crossroads by the Hacienda apartments D and pass

the Ritz E on the left. At the crossroads by the Cornerhouse, F turn left down Oxford Street, past Music Box and Rockworld G on the right. Go right along Portland Street to Piccadilly. Turn left and pass Piccadilly Gardens H on the left. Turn right along Tib Street to Afflecks Palace I on the right. Just afterwards, turn right down Church Street. At Oldham Street, Dry Bar J is over the road towards the left. Turn right and pass Night & Day K on your

left. Once again at Piccadilly Gardens, turn right and follow the road past the Arndale Centre. Turn right down Corporation Street to Urbis L on your left in Cathedral Gardens. Just to the north, and adjacent to Cathedral Gardens, is Victoria Station. The MEN Arena M is joined on to the station. If you walk back the way you came, past Urbis and down Corporation Street, you will soon arrive back at the Town Hall and the starting point of the walk.

Source: Ordnance Survey Crown Copyright, All Rights Reserved. GD: 774444 - OS EXP 277

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Rock ‘n’ roll star: Noel Gallagher

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Band-land ● JOY DIVISION

Bass player Peter Hook formed this mould-breaking band in 1976 and their base was Fac 251, an old warehouse on the corner of Princess Street and Charles Street. ● THE SMITHS

Manchester locations often featured on the sleeves of their records – famously Salford Lads Club in St IgnatiusWalk, which is on the cover of The Queen Is Dead album. ● HAPPY MONDAYS

Spawned in 1984 by the ‘Madchester’ acid-house scene, the Happy Mondays’ universe was Whitworth Street’s Hacienda – now the site of luxury flats. ● OASIS

Best hangouts in town Manchester is undeniably party central, with a huge range of bars, cafes and nightspots. Many of the old buildings have been cleverly reworked as sleek, modern establishments. Dukes 92 on Castle Street is the Duke of Bridgewater’s former stables, while the Lass O’Gowrie, Charles Street, may resemble a traditional alehouse, but the plush interior is a microbrewery. Deansgate Locks is the ideal spot beside the canal to watch

the beautiful folk go by: Atlas’ glass-fronted railway arch bar and terrace and canteena at Castlefield are choice spots, while Rain Bar, located on Great Bridgewater Street, has a swanky bar and sweeping canalside terraces. Also check out Canal Street’sVia Fossa, a mockGothic bar attracting a

fashionable, largely gay crowd. Celebrity-spotters should also hit the Living Room on Deansgate – a favourite with many Manchester United players – and ultra-cool Loaf, which is down on Deansgate Lock. But if you hanker after a traditional boozer, try the Briton’s Protection on Great Bridgewater Street, for a pie and pint.

The band that defined a generation, the Burnage lads played their first gig at The Boardwalk, Little Peter Street. ● THE BEE GEES

These tinsel-voiced megastars lived on Chorlton’s Keppel Road as children, and Barry Gibb returned to buy their old house in 2002.

The Bee Gees: shiny, happy people

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19/8/05 11:49:07 pm


■ GREATER MANCHESTER

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In the dock Lowry’s famous matchstick figures

Art galleries, museums, designer shopping and even abundant wildlife make for an exciting day out round The Quays

Visitors flock to The Quays’ buzzing waterfront

The Quays is a major regeneration success story. Its industrial remains mingle with gleaming Modernising new buildings, the waterfront including the Imperial War Museum North and The Lowry. Where once the docks acted as a stop-off for commercial shipping, its cultural hubs now attract international visitors. Greater Manchester’s revamped waterfront is home to lively bars, restaurants, residences and businesses, making it a vibrant social centre. The walk, suitable for both wheelchair and pushchair users, starts from The Lowry, which has the largest public collection of Lowry artwork in the UK. From here, the view to your right across the impressive Lowry footbridge is towards the stunning Imperial War Museum North. Not far away on Huron Basin (the names of the docks commemorate Manchester’s trading links with America), is the Detroit Bridge – an old single-track railway bridge converted into a footbridge. The water in these docks is now so clean it’s been restocked with thriving populations of fish. The route is punctuated by many imposing artworks, and looming across Ontario Basin are two three-tonne electric cranes. Once situated on No 6 Dock, they were dismantled in 1988 and re-erected here as a landmark. Meanwhile, at the Watersports Centre, you’re likely to see windsurfers and sailors – the perfect spot to watch the world go by… ■ Visit www.thequays.org.uk or ring 0161 848 8601 for more details

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The park is a gift for the people of Bolton

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Directions water’s edge. Walk to the end of The Victoria D . Leaving the water, turn left across the car park to the road. The Harbour City Metrolink stop is in front Start your walk from Salford Tourist of you. Turn right along the road E . Information Centre, inside The Lowry. Walk outside into the Plaza. From here, As the Metrolink crosses it, turn right. turn left and walk past the Digital Turn right down the side of the World Centre and cross the Anchorage Building F and go road in front of you. along the end of Erie Basin G . Either go down the Continue straight ahead away from The Lowry, steps or use the ramp at bearing right B and the end of the Anchorage. Walk alongside the basin. keeping the water on your right. Continue At the junction with round to the northern end Mariners Canal, turn left The Lowry of the red Detroit Bridge. and continue along the (After March 2006, Detroit waterfront. Turn left at The Bridge will be open so you could Quayhouse pub on the left at choose to cross the Basin here.) the end of the canal H . Continue along the dock edge (or Turn left along the quay front I C turn right if you’ve crossed the bridge) (Ontario Basin) and right at the end of the basin, keeping the water on your and walk in front of the Victoria. Keeping right. Cross the road in front J and this on your left go down steps to the Distance: 3 miles Time needed: 1 hour

follow signs for Clippers Quay and Old Trafford. Cross the next road, keeping Merchants Quay on the right, and follow the road towards the Transport and General Workers Union building. Turn right down Merchants Quay K after the Salford Quays Metrolink stop. Walk between the houses and turn right at the garages on the right hand side, then left towards St Francis Basin (keeping the basin on the right and houses on left). At the junction with the road take a right. You can see the Imperial War Museum North in the distance on the left hand side. L Head towards the Holiday Inn Express. Cross the road and follow the signs to the Watersports Centre and The Lowry down the ramp on the left of the hotel. Cross over the lock gates M towards the Watersports Centre where you turn left, towards the Plaza N .

Shortcuts ● Salford Quays was the old port of Manchester, transformed by the end of the 19th-Century into an island port by a canal linking it to the sea. The Manchester Ship Canal was opened by Queen Victoria on 21 May 1894

Water, water everywhere

● The water in The Quays was once so toxic it was lifeless. Fifteen tonnes of oxygen were pumped into the water over two years, and after a

10-year programme, it’s now home to roach, perch, tench and pike ● Mark E.Smith of The Fall once worked on Salford Docks. Other famous Salfordians include football commentator Kenneth Wolstenholme and The Hollies’ Allan Clarke ● The Red Cinema in the Lowry Outlet Mall shows Manchester United’s major away games

Source: Ordnance Survey Crown Copyright, All Rights Reserved. GD: SJ 808972 - OS EXP 277

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When Bolton grocerturned-entrepreneur, and first Lord Leverhulme, William Hesketh Lever owned the stunning 400-acre Rivington estate, little did he think that it would one day be a testing course for some of the world’s best road cyclists and mountain-bikers. The park also proved an inspired choice for the 2002 Commonwealth Games, and it’s easy to see why. Ever since Leverhulme donated the land to the people of Bolton in 1902, it’s been a popular destination. With its wooded lakes, terraced gardens, moorland and the ruined replica of Liverpool Castle, there’s a variety of walking options. For those who delight in stunning views, Rivington Pike – once the site of a beacon that warned of the arrival of the Spanish Armada – looks across to Blackpool Tower and the Welsh mountains. There’s no better view – unless you’re one of the hang-gliders who make the most of thermals during the summer months! ■ For info call 01204 334 321 or go to www.visit-bolton.com WALK

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23/8/05 9:02:21 am


I GREATER MANCHESTER I LANCASHIRE

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Hail the revolution Celebrate Manchester’s glorious industrial past on a city walk that takes in its historic mills, warehouses, canals and cotton factories

Some of the most stunning architecture around Manchester’s city centre is a legacy of its importance during the Industrial Revolution, and this heritage helped mould the city into the vibrant one it is today. Manchester had become a major industrial force by the second half of the 19th-Century and canals were the veins of its transport, linking it to all parts of the country, including the major ports of Liverpool and Hull. During this vibrant period, the Castlefield area was of vital importance, made up of a network

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of canals, warehouses, railways and viaducts. Britain’s first manmade canal, the Bridgewater, opened in 1765 and extended to North Wales, where slate was mined to provide roofing for thousands of homes, while Duke’s Lock marks the connection to the newer Rochdale Canal – the first waterway link across the Pennines. However, the decline of industry in the 1950s led to Castlefield becoming derelict until a major urban regeneration programme in the ‘80s transformed the area. Also worth a look is Castlefield’s reconstructed Roman Fort, the

The rebuilt Roman Fort

Shortcuts G Four railway viaducts crossed the Castlefield canals in the 1800s and three are still in use today G The council bought Liverpool Road Railway Station for the museum in 1978 – costing just £1 G The Roman Fort was rebuilt in 1987, after the original one was lost in the Industrial Revolution G When German architect Karl Schinkel visited in 1825, he remarked that the city’s factories were so black they looked like they’d been there for 100 years

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Directions Distance: 5 miles Time needed: 2-3 hours (not including time in museums) Making your way from Deansgate Station, find Chester Road to the south. Go through the archway under the apartments to the right, to the Bridgedale Canal. A Follow the canal round to the modern, white footbridge. Cross to Duke’s Lock B , just over and to your right. Walk under the viaducts C and immediately turn right to the

spot where Manchester was born. From 79AD, the fort grew due to its valuable location on the Roman road between Chester and York. The 19th-Century Liverpool Road Railway Station, now the Museum of Science and Industry, is said to be where the railway age began, while The People’s History Museum, housed on the site of an old Edwardian hydraulic pumping station, celebrates the city’s fascinating past. Another top stop is the Great Northern Rail Company’s Goods Warehouse, which although now a shopping centre, still bears its original name. Built in 1898, it was once a massive interchange

Roman Fort. D Walk through the fort gates and on to the Museum of Science and Industry. E Turn right down Liverpool Road, and left along Deansgate, passing the Great Northern Railway Company’s Goods Warehouse. F When you get to Bridge Street, turn left to the Peoples’ History Museum G (on the left just before the bridge). Return to Deansgate and cross it. Follow Dalton Street past the Town Hall, H where the road becomes Princess Street. At a crossroads with Portland Street,

the Princess Street Warehouse I is opposite and to the left. Turn left along Portland Street, passing Watts Warehouse J on the right. At Piccadilly turn right. Turn left down Ducie Street. Cross a gravel car park on the left to the Rochdale Canal. K Without crossing the canal, turn right and follow it under two bridges. Cross the next footbridge to Redhill Street, and the enormous Redhill Street Mills. L Leading off Redhill Street is Henry Street, M with the Old Mill and New Mill.

between canal, rail and road networks. Other architecturally sophisticated buildings you can marvel at The old canals are now include the Watts home to funky bars Warehouse – once the largest drapery business in Manchester – and the newly gentrified. Redhill Street Princess Street Warehouse, which Spinning Mill once had 1500 are now exclusive hotels. They’re employees and by the mid-19tha legacy to the cotton, textile, Century was the largest in the dyeing, weaving and spinning Manchester area. Walking around, industries that were the city’s you'll see that the past and present commercial lifeblood. sit neatly together in Manchester. Many old mills around Redhill I See www.visitmanchester.com or Street and Henry Street have been call 0161 234 3157 for information

Source: Ordnance Survey Crown Copyright, All Rights Reserved. GD: 774444 - OS EXP 277

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“My riches consist not in the extent of my possessions but in the fewness of my wants,” reads Joseph Brotherton’s memorial statue in Manchester’s Peel Park. A popular MP for Salford, Brotherton was active in Parliament for 24 years until his death in 1857, and he certainly left his mark on the city. A passionate supporter of Parliamentary reform, he was one of the first MPs to argue against the death penalty. He also campaigned for reduced 10-hour working days, the development of working-class education, and for open spaces such as Peel Park.

Ricky Hatton WORLD LIGHT WELTERWEIGHT CHAMPION

A few days before a fight, when you’re winding down and you want to get a bit of energy back, rather than run or do a work out I walk to conserve my energy. My favourite spot for walking is Werneth Low above Gee Cross in Hyde. The views are amazing. There’s nothing better than wrapping up and getting out there to do a bit of walking. It’s great for my training and general health.

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I GREATER MANCHESTER Escape from it all around Saddleworth

Nonulluptat, con hendre et, volortio

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Village life SADDLEWORTH

Often, it’s only by walking that you can appreciate a place’s history, which is why the villages of Saddleworth make for such great walks. With sprawling areas of moorland providing a home for flocks of sheep but little else, 19th-Century farmers in the west Pennines had to supplement their income with weaving. But that all changed with the introduction of manufacturing processes that revolutionised the fortunes of local communities. The plentiful supply of wool and rainfall meant the region rapidly developed a textile industry. Woollen mills sprang up, as did the new industrial villages such as Uppermill and Delph. Today, these retain much of the feel and character of their 19thCentury heyday, when they were at the heart of a thriving community. OS EXP OL 1 (W) I Call 01457 870 336 or visit www.waterscape.com for more info

Nikki Sanderson CANDICE STOWE, CORONATION STREET

I live in Bury, Greater Manchester, which is surrounded by great countryside. There’s a massive reservoir at Edgeworth where I went bike riding as a child. Burrs Country Park just outside the town is my favourite, though, with rivers and lakes for canoeing and a pub called the Brown Cow which is handy for lunch.

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Tribute to a tennis star While many people are familiar with the statue of Fred Perry that welcomes tennis fans through the main gate at Wimbledon’s All England Club, a more recent monument to the three-time winner of the tournament can be found in his home town, Stockport. Opened in September 2002, the Fred Perry Way is a

14-mile walking route that spans the borough from Woodford in the south to Reddish in the north. The walk takes in rural footpaths, quiet lanes and river valleys, as well as urban parkland and large woodland sites. And for a specific testimony to one of England’s greatest sportsmen, then look no further than Woodbank Park, which the route passes through – Perry actually played some showcase games on the courts here.

more info Wimbledon champ Fred Perry

19/8/05 8:40:01 pm


THE THREE GRACES Liverpool’s famous skyline, including (l-r) the Royal Liver Building, Cunard Building and Port of Liverpool Building

Merseyside Inside this section

There’s an incredible renaissance going on in the European Capital of Culture 2008. The area is also home to some fantastic walks, whether you’re tracing Merseyside’s musical and maritime history or exploring its fine coast and woodlands

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P38 Maritime Liverpool

P42 Formby Point

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P43 Hilbre Island

P41 Sefton Coast

P44 Liverpool city centre

19/8/05 11:33:28 pm


■ MERSEYSIDE Albert Dock: A waterfront rich in history

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Maritime Liverpool From Albert Dock to the giant Liver Birds – discover the legacy of Liverpool’s seafaring past strolling on its historic waterfront Shortcuts The legacy of Liverpool’s history of international commerce includes a series of wonderful imposing structures that salute its maritime success. Submerge yourself in a walk around a waterfront that’s steeped in history and grandeur. The Grade One Listed Albert Dock was opened in 1846 by its namesake, Prince Albert, who remarked, “I have heard of the greatness of Liverpool but the reality far surpasses the expectation.” With such an enthusiastic recommendation, we consider this the perfect starting point for your walk. Passing through the preserved

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Once at the crossroads of the world

Conservation areas around Castle Street and Dale Street, you come to the medieval street Hackins Hey which houses the oldest pub in Liverpool, Ye Hole In Ye Wall. The church of St Nicholas offers you maritime artefacts to peruse in its Green Flag award-winning gardens. The church itself has a

● The Royal Liver Building was built in 1908 with a fusion of architectural influences. Its most famous feature is the two copper liver birds that sit on top of the building’s towers, which have been adopted as the symbol of Liverpool ● The Cunard Building was built between 1914 and 1918 as offices for the Cunard Shipping Company. The representations of various nationalities in its design indicate the company’s international operations ● Look out for a notable detail in the architecture of the Port of Liverpool Building – the classical female figures at the entrance that personify Commerce and Industry

Tall ships can still be seen in Albert Dock


Directions Distance: 6.5 miles Time needed: 2-3 hours

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A turbulent history, hosting burials for Plague victims in 1361, detaining POWs in the English Civil War, having an involvement with the slave trade, and receiving extensive damage in a 1940 wartime air raid. One of your final encounters will be with the Three Graces – including the famous Royal Liver Building with its copper Birds – which comprise the most famous Grade One and Two listed buildings in Liverpool, together forming one of the most admired waterfront vistas in the world. ■ For further information go to www.visitliverpool.com or call 0906 680 6886 (calls cost 25p per minute)

Enter Albert Dock and enjoy strolling around, leaving by the same entrance. Turn right, past the Maritime Museum B , then head for the main road. Turn left and follow the road, then pass right into James Street. Take Castle Street on the left, where you will see a statue of Queen Victoria C on your right-hand side. Turn right down Dale Street, then left into Hackins Hey passing Ye Hole In Ye Wall D , where you may want to stop for refreshment. Carry Straight on to Bixteth Street and turn left into Edmund Street. Take another left into Old Hall Street, then turn right down Fazakerley Street, and left down Rumford Place. Here you should turn left into Chapel Street then right into the iron-gated entrance to E Exchange Flags. Pass by the Town Hall and turn right down

Water Street and right into Tower Gardens. Passing St Nicholas’ Church F and gardens, the route will take you onto Chapel Street. Turn left, cross the main road and head to the riverfront passing the Three Graces on your right. From here, you could head south back to Albert Dock, passing the Three Graces. But if you’re feeling more adventurous, head north passing Princes Dock G on your right. Meet a busy, wide road and turn left. You’ll pass the converted East Waterloo Docks H on the left. Continue until you reach the derelict warehouse flanking Stanley Dock I , visible from the old raising bridge. Here’s where you about turn, and follow the river back to Albert Dock. Just before you’ll pass the Three Graces: the Royal Liver Building J , the Cunard Building K , and L the Port of Liverpool Building. Voila, you’re back where you started.

The Royal Liver Building is even more impressive at night

Liver Birds watch over the city

Liverpool’s birds Merseyside is rich with birdlife and has its own unique monument to our feathered friends. The Liver Birds are 18ft high and resemble cormorants, which are reputed to bring sailors good luck. Their maker, German sculptor Carl Bernard Bartels, won a competition to see his work on the Royal Liver Building at the turn of the 20th Century. Carl was imprisoned on the Isle of Man during WWII, then deported, despite having a wife in England. He only returned years later. Anyone wanting to see real birds simply has to look up on a walk around Liverpool. At Liverpool’s Anglican Cathedral for example, take a careful look at the tower, as ravens nest there. Elsewhere, peregrine falcons nesting on top of one of Merseyside’s busiest rail stations, Birkenhead’s Hamilton Square, raised a brood in 2002. Take a look and see if they’ve come back. Meanwhile, common terns nest on man-made platforms built for them at Seaforth in Liverpool Docks. True twitchers should look out for the rare black redstart, which breeds on derelict land between Herculaneum and Stanley Docks.

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■ MERSEYSIDE

Highlights of Heswall This area is a birdwatcher’s paradise and you’ll catch sight of a huge range of species around its hedgerows, heathland and waterways •SU LK

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Jeff Turner PRESENTER, ITV GRANADA

One of my favourite places to walk is at Ness Botanic Gardens in south Wirral. It was started in 1898 by a Liverpool cotton merchant, Arthur Kilpin Bulley. He had a fascination for plants and he sent adventurers all over the world to bring back rare species. These are 64 acres of the most fascinating gardens anywhere.

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Heswall on the Wirral, just off the A540, faces south towards Wales over the Dee Estuary. As your start point for this four-and-a-half mile, two-hour walk is a supermarket, a picnic is a must, particularly as there’s a tempting detour to be made in the direction of Wirral Country Park. Heswall is a surprisingly varied area, with walks through lanes that sit deep between hedgerows of hawthorn, blackthorn and bramble. Look out for nesting birds such as whitethroat in the summer, and later for winter residents, and visitors such as fieldfare, redwing and waxwing. A walk here will also take you through areas of low heathland, where you might see a short-eared owl, as well as lizards and small mammals such as stoats. There are hidden dells and waterfalls to discover along the way in the Dungeon, Heswall’s steep-sided, stream valley – watch your footing on the slippery stones. Boats bob at moorings on Heswall’s long coastal strip, renowned by birdwatchers for the variety and Moorhens patrol sheer abundance the coast of its waders. Heswall Fields, owned by The National Trust, is a superb stopping-off point. The tide rises very rapidly over mudflats here, sending the feeding waders and ducks up the channels close in to the shore. The close-up views of the birds are unparalleled and vast numbers of waders choose the Country lanes area as a wintering ground. meet the sea Redshank, curlew and black-tailed at Heswall


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Directions Distance: 4.5 miles Time needed: 2.5 hours Start at Tesco in Heswall . Walk out of the back of the car park to the left of the building onto the footpath down the hill. Cross the road B and follow the footpath down into Heswall Dales. At the fork, keep left, with the boundary fence on your left. Turn left at the end of Bushway on to Pipers Lane C , then right into Delavor Road, over the bridge and follow the road. Go straight along Broad Lane D . Near the end of the lane before the gate of the large white house, go over the stile on your right and cross the field E .

Mud flats stretch into the distance

Bear left and go through a kissing gate, then a pinch gap onto Heswall Fields F (owned by The National Trust). Bear right and head for the National Trust sign in the far right-hand corner and walk up the path to meet the Wirral Way G . Ignore the cycle/bridle path. Take the next left, the Wirral Way footpath. H Here, for a longer walk, you can carry on up the Wirral Way to Wirral Country Park, returning the same way. Otherwise, head for the Dungeon, on the right. Follow the path until you see a small bridge on your left I . Cross it and walk up the steep steps, then bear right along the edge of the dell. Pass the waterfall to meet the

Shortcuts ● DJ John Peel was born in Heswall, as was cricketer Ian Botham ● ‘Dungeon’ is Old English for wooded dell

godwit are among the most numerous. You may even see a hen harrier or a peregrine falcon, trying its luck among the flocks of waders. ■ For details call 0151 606 2000 or go to www.wirral.gov.uk

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● According to the Wetland Bird Survey, Heswall plays host to the largest number of redshanks in the UK in winter. Around 6,000 birds roost on the mudbanks. Wintering shelducks can number 9-10,000 ● Take a look at the roof of Sheldrakes restaurant on Banks Road as you pass. It’s a favourite perch for peregrines watching the flocks and preparing to hunt for a little lunch

A fair wind blows at Sefton

Sefton Coast WATERLOO OS EXP 275

If you like to feel the sea breeze in your hair, the Sefton Coast, which A B extends from Waterloo near Bootle to Southport, will appeal. A 20-mile path that runs between footpath spans the Thurstaston and Irish Sea coast Heswall. Turn right. between these Follow the path J to Oldfield Farm and points and, as it’s straight on past the farm. Lizards of the maintained by K At Oldfield Road, heath continue along until you rangers from Sefton reach the entrance track to Council, it’s clearly marked Heswall Dales on your right. (with yellow discs in the form Walk down the track and bear left L , then through a pinch gap. M Carry of toads) so you can’t get lost. straight on along the main path, past two There are lots of smaller walks pinch gaps, turn right, then soon left. You will meet the original path that brought to do along the route: you can you down from Tesco. explore the sandhills and pines of Ainsdale and Birkhill (keep an eye out for sand lizards) or John Barnes LEGENDARY FORMER LIVERPOOL PLAYER walk through Ravenmeols’ old asparagus fields and wooded My favourite walk copses. The easiest way to is from Heswall access any part of the walk where I live, is by Merseyrail. towards West ■ For info call 0845 140 0845 Kirkby along the or go to www.sefton.gov.uk Wirral Way with my family. It’s a great way to keep fit and I enjoyed Solitary the ‘Walk With The Legends’ event seal for Britain On The Move last year. We started at Anfield, then joined a crowd of Liverpool fans and walked around Stanley Park. ST AR

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Source: Ordnance Survey Crown Copyright, All Rights Reserved. GD: SJ 257825 - OS EXP 266 (N)

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■ MERSEYSIDE

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Miles of unspoilt coastline, pine woods and rare squirrels make Formby Point a great adventure for all the family

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The huge sand dunes of Formby Point

At low tide the beach stretches out

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Rabbits love dunes too

It’s got a great beach, one of England’s largest sand dune systems and is possibly the best destination for spotting rare red squirrels in the UK – Formby Point has something for everyone. Children in particular will love the Red Squirrel Walk, where it’s likely you’ll see at least a few of these increasingly rare furry friends, and get the chance to feed them with bags of nuts. They’re not exactly tame, but are obviously used to being carefully watched by visitors. It’s a short, easy circuit through the pine trees, while the woodland and cornerstone walks take you through attractive open pinewoods, where you may still be lucky enough to see those elusive creatures and a variety of birdlife. The sand dunes themselves, with their maze of sandy paths between the grasses and hillocks, can be explored for hours. Our walk takes you over a particularly impressive dune that at first feels like you’re trekking across the Sahara – just imagine that oasis over the next hill! The satisfyingly sandy beach itself extends out a long way at low tide, and is perfect for a leisurely stroll, that can be as long or as short as you wish. There are yellow posts dotted along the beach, which


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Directions Distance: 7 miles Time needed: 2-3 hours In the main car park find the entrance to the Woodland Walk , to the right of the car park entrance as you walk back towards it. It’s easy to miss and may be hidden between parked cars. This leads you to the Red Squirrel Walk B , where you may want to do a couple of circuits. At the road entrance

mark the paths that go inland, so if you’re walking, keep a tally of the posts to know where you are on the beach. On arriving at Formby Point, you should get a colour-coded map that shows how all the separate paths join up. Our walk links several of these paths, but it’s easy to do just one or a combination of several parts of the walk, as none of them stray far from the car park. ■ For details call 0906 680 6886 (calls cost 25p per minute) or go to www.visitliverpool.com

to the Red Squirrel Walk, cross the road to the Cornerstone Walk C , and follow it to a concrete track where a sign points left to the car park. D Turn right and follow the track to a sandy path on the left by a post marked Sefton Coast Trail E . Follow the path over the large sand dune F but don’t go straight through the gap to the beach. Veer to the right of the grassy dune that flanks the gap. At the edge, find the sandy path through the grassy dunes. Follow it and fairly soon

turn left through another gap onto the beach, by a yellow marker post G . Turn left and follow the beach H back. You’ll pass more yellow marker posts – the third one is the exit back to the car park. Walk to the fifth post I , and double back on yourself behind the dunes, following the path and the posts back to the car park. If you lose your sense of direction, which can easily be done, head back to the beach and use the yellow marker posts to help return to the route.

Shortcuts ● Red squirrels are native to the UK. The grey variety was introduced from America in 1876.According to the Wildlife Trust, there are only 161,000 red squirrels in the UK – greys outnumber them by 66 to one ● Every year, around four metres (12 feet) of land is eroded from the dunes at Formby. In 50 years, the National Trust forecasts the space occupied by the current car park will be covered by sand dunes

Formby is home to the rare red squirrel

● Formby’s dunes are also home to the rare natterjack toad. In spring, male natterjacks gather by pools in the sand dunes and sing to attract mates. Locally they’re known as Bootle Organs, because of their distinctive song

Source: Ordnance Survey Crown Copyright, All Rights Reserved. GD: SD 274081 - OS EXP 285 (W)

The waders of Hilbre Island

Hilbre Islands WEST KIRBY OS EXP 266 (N)

Fancy getting stranded on a desert island? Try Hilbre Islands Local Nature Reserve. Little Eye, Middle Eye and Hilbre Island lie at the mouth of the Dee Estuary. The islands are reached by foot from West Kirby and are cut off from the mainland for up to five hours out of every 12.You cross the sands when the tide is out. The piping cries of seabirds are the theme music to a walk here as the islands’ shores and mudflats provide feeding and roosting grounds for waders from September onwards. Looking west from the south west tip of Hilbre at low tide, you can see Atlantic grey seals on the sandbanks. Before doing this walk you need to find out tide times, as you must set out from West Kirby on the recommended route at least three hours before high water, 3.5 hours on tides 9.5 metres and higher. Tide tables can be bought locally and are on display at Dee Lane slipway, or ring 0151 648 4371/3884 for tide times. ■ For info call 0151 606 2000 or go to www.wirral.gov.uk WALK

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■ MERSEYSIDE The Port of Liverpool Building

City 39 Stroll

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LIVERPOOL CENTRE OS EXP 266 (N)

You can enjoy Liverpool’s premier attractions in a day on a stroll around the city centre. Transport terminal Lime Street Station is a good place to start. Cross William Brown Street to see the ancient and modern collections of World Museum Liverpool and The Walker art gallery next door. Look out for the superb architecture of St George’s Hall as you cross St John’s Gardens. Enter Williamson Square and look around the shopping centre. Turn right on Church Street and you’ll hit the most famous musical alley in the world – Mathew Street. A mecca for Beatles fans, it features the Cavern Club and numerous Fab Four-themed shops and pubs. On the way to the docks, walking down Water Street, you’ll see the city’s Three Graces skyline: the Royal Liver Building, Cunard and Port of Liverpool buildings. Turn left and you’ll soon hit cultural hub Albert Dock. Fine shops, bars and restaurants surround the visitor attractions: the Maritime Museum and Tate Liverpool. From here, head up Wapping and Parliament Street to the enormous Liverpool Cathedral. Wander along Hope Street and you’ll pass the Royal Liverpool Philharmonic. This area is also one of Liverpool’s best restaurant and bar quarters, making it the ideal place to rest up after all that exercise. ■ For details call 0906 680 6886 (calls cost 25p per minute) or go to www.visitliverpool.com

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City of culture

Mathew St: The birthplace of The Beatles

More great Liverpool architecture WALK

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Liverpool has always had world-class art galleries and an influential music scene, but the city’s confirmation as the European Capital of Culture 2008 will put Merseyside firmly on the global arts map. One-and-a-half million extra visitors are expected to pour into the city to attend an astonishing range of events between now and 2008. Internationally-renowned orchestras, pop bands and artists, plus top-notch theatre, opera and ballet companies are all lined up to participate. Along the way, Liverpool will benefit from billions of pounds worth of investment, thousands of new jobs and massive physical regeneration, which will see it reborn as a premier European city.

Margi Clarke ACTRESS & BUSINESSWOMAN

I love walking and frequently go three times a week. My favourite walk is from my house in Allerton Road to Penny Lane where I meet up with my good friend Henry Epstein, nephew of Beatles manager Brian Epstein. Henry is a fabulous Scouser and will join me in visiting John Lennon’s haunts off Penny Lane. From here I’ll follow Country Lane, which is flanked on the left-hand side by a wonderful ancient wall that, although rebuilt,

still retains its first two original layers. Continuing up the Mossley Hill Road, I see my 30 favourite tall larch trees. They’re magnificent with their beautiful pinky grey bark. The uphill climb keeps me on my toes but I’m rewarded by the sights of the beautiful church and whitewashed houses of Liverpool on view from the hill. From the hill, I’ll make my way down Riversdale Road to the Prom, from where I’ll

watch the wonderful sunsets. The joy of walking for me is the opportunity to sniff the roses along the way. Liverpool is so green and fertile that it puts me in mind of Adrian Henri’s wonderful foliage paintings. OS EXP 266 (N) www.visitliverpool.com

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ALDERLEY EDGE The views from this huge sandstone outcrop are some of the best in the county

Cheshire

Inside this section

One of England’s most picturesque counties is home to the prosperous, medieval walled city of Chester and some superb walking country. From Anderton to Marbury and Haslington to Beeston, it’s the ideal place to relax and unwind

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■ CHESHIRE

Walk down ancient lime avenues in Marbury Park

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Park life

Spend a lazy day spotting wildlife and picnicking in lush green fields at Marbury and Anderton Country Parks

Two beautiful parks teeming with wildlife and colourful flowers, a gentle canal winding its way to the Anderton Boat Lift, plenty of picnic space – this easy-going walk is the perfect family day out. Marbury Country Park’s ancient woodland, parkland and streams provide ample opportunity for spotting various animal species, from bats to beetles. Then there are its famous lime avenues – they hark back to the days when Marbury was a grand estate. The park lies on the shore of Budworth Mere,

home to many birds such as kingfishers, grey heron, Canada geese and mute swans. Listen out in the woodlands – they’re full of bird life and you may be lucky enough to hear cuckoos calling, woodpeckers hammering, or birds of prey such as buzzards, sparrowhawks, kestrels and owls. Then make your way to the Anderton Boat Lift, via the banks of the Trent and Mersey Canal, where you can watch huge dragonflies dance on the water as longboats lazily drift past. A marvel of 19thCentury engineering, the

Enjoy the peace of Marbury

Boat Lift connects the canal to the River Weaver. If all that activity makes you peckish, nip to The Stanley Arms across the canal for a welcome mid-walk lunch and a drink. And if you’re still up for some more walking, amble to Anderton Nature Park, a wildlife haven converted from industrial wasteland, where you can follow the new wildflower trail and discover rare and unusual plants. ■ For details ring Northwich TIC on 01606 353 534 or go to www.visitchester.com

An area full of surprises

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B Trails snake between mature pines

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Directions Distance: 6 miles Time needed: 2-3 hours Exit the car park at Marbury Country Park , go into the park and turn left. Then go past the toilets and the ranger’s hut. Cross another path and go into the woodlands, veering towards the right and keeping Budworth Mere B to your left. Now follow the path beside the lake, eventually you’ll be leaving the woods

and turning left towards the canal D , crossing the bridge C . Turn right and follow the canal’s towpath, keeping the water to your right and passing the marina E . At Anderton Boat Lift F , cross the car park and follow the path through the dragonfly-shaped gates G . Follow the signs to Haydn Pool I through Anderton Nature Park H . When rejoining the surfaced track veer towards the left

The Anderton Boat Lift Dubbed the ‘Cathedral of the Canals’, the Anderton Boat Lift is a magnificent monument to Britain’s last canal age and the only working one left in the UK. Constructed in 1875, the lift was a major engineering achievement, built to speed up the movement of cargo between the River Weaver and the Trent & Mersey Canal. After a century of service the Boat Lift closed in 1983. But, following a £7million

restoration project the lift was reopened in March 2002, and now you can ride the lift in the Edwin Clark trip boat. ■ Call 01606 872 868 or visit www.andertonboatlift.co.uk for more details The Boat Lift in all its glory

and follow it over the canal. You should turn right into Marbury Park and then left to follow the path through the woods. At the junction turn right and then left through a gate J . Cross the field and go through another gate. You should finally be able to follow the path back to the car park.

Samia Ghadie MARIA SUTHERLAND, CORONATION STREET

I go walking with my fiancé.We get some quality time together, leave our mobile phones at home and disappear for a couple of hours.We live in Cheshire, where there are some fabulous walks, and we get out quite a bit, especially on Sundays – often to Alderley Edge. It’s this great wedge of sandstone that rises out of the landscape.There’s a great walk there called The Edge which is perfect for a Sunday stroll.

Woodland walk DELAMERE FOREST PARK WALK

The dry sandstone paths, mature pine trees and easy-to-navigate forest roads make Delamere Forest Park walking heaven. Located within the Mersey Forest, the picturesque trails, picnic spots and lakes give you ample opportunity to spot a variety of wildlife, including butterflies, wood-peckers and dragonflies. The forest still bears scars from Ice Age glaciers 10,000 years ago and it’s rumoured to be home to strange beasts. These stories started after the Roman invasion, when they cut a road through the forest. Soldiers often heard the roar of an animal and later, deer and wild boar were found torn apart. Such reports continued down the centuries – even in 1985, three people claimed they saw what resembled a small Tyrannosaurus Rex sleeping in the forest. Tall story? Find out for yourself on a walk searching for the prehistoric beast. If the excitement proves too much, you can always take refuge in the visitor centre and shop, or wind down in the tearoom. There are also three picnic sites to choose from. ■ Call 0131 334 0303 or visit www.forestry.gov.uk for details

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■ CHESHIRE

History was made here in the Civil War

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Quick march Explore the battle grounds of Cheshire on this tranquil trail steeped in history

Enjoy ancient water features

As you’re meandering along the footpaths and country lanes of Haslington, you’ll discover a fascinating slice of English history concealed within its rolling hills and farmland. During the 17thCentury Civil War, there was a great deal of unrest in this area. Haslington and Crewe were ruthlessly pillaged by marauding Royalist troops, who were eventually defeated as they battled against the Parliamentarians. The aptly-named Slaughter Hill was the site of the Barthomley Massacre, a violent battle that took

place in 1643. According to local legend, this made the Valley Brook run red with blood. A perfectly preserved sword was actually found buried in its banks. In spring, the slopes down to Valley Brook are carpeted with flowers, including wood anemones, lesser celandine and bluebells. You can also feed the swans and ducks at Winterley Pool, an old mill pond that was first recorded in 1572. It’s now one of the most important inland refuges for mute swans in Cheshire. Also keep your eyes peeled for

Shortcuts ● Legend has it Dick Turpin (above) once stayed at Haslington’s Hawk Inn ● The Old Smithy in Haslington was operational until 1975. It’s at the junction to Waterloo road and is now a private home ● Haslington Hall is a Grade 1 listed building, putting it in the top two per cent of all listed buildings in the country

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St Mary’s Church: 14th-Century splendour

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Directions Distance: 7 miles Time taken: 2-3 hours Turn left out of Haslington’s free car park down Waterloo Road. Turn right into Cross Road and then right out of Cross Road and left down South Avenue. Follow the footpath over the fields towards Slaughter Hill and Valley Brook. Turn left at the bottom of the second field. Keep the golf clubhouse B

C on your left across the car park. Follow the track. Keep to the left of the pond C , taking the footpath to Hall O’ the Heath Farm. Turn right along the track at the farm and turn left at the metal gate D . Cross another stile on the left along the footpath to Holmshaw Lane. Turn right and take the first road left. Go straight on to Stockton Farm E . After the farmyard, cross the fields up the hill. Take the stile on the left F and

wild flowers while crossing Crewe Golf course on the footpaths. Agrimony, hairbell, and meadowsweet are just a few you may come across. Then wind your Haslington Hall way towards Haslington Hall. This takes you to the Hawk Inn, an ideal stately home dates back to 1480, spot for lunch. This 500-year-old but the 1545 timber-framed hall, timber-framed building has been a built by Admiral Sir Francis Vernon farmhouse, alehouse and coaching – who sailed alongside Sir Francis inn. It once had a mortuary and it’s Drake against the Armada – is what makes the house particularly rumoured a ghost named ‘The Lady in Grey’ haunts the inn. striking. Its elaborate black and white frame was a significant ■ For details ring Nantwich TIC status symbol during that time. on 01270 610 983 or go to Back at Haslington, a right turn www.visitchester.com

Source: Ordnance Survey Crown Copyright, All Rights Reserved. GD: SJ 748557 - OS EXP 257 (E)

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the diagonal path in the direction of Barnfields Farm. Cross Holmshaw Lane to Haslington Hall G . In the yard outside the Hall, walk to your right and follow the track to Haslington. Turn left at Crewe Road and walk back towards the car park. Wild flowers

Fred 45 Talbot

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WEATHERMAN, ITV GRANADA

The walk from Lymm Dam has to be one of my favourites. The dam was built in the 1840s to create a lake that’s a sheer joy to walk round. It’s a walk of discovery, so don’t miss the sandstone outcrops – a very important geological formation. The vistas are constantly changing so take your time and enjoy the experience. OS EXP 276 www.visitchester.com

History trail NANTWICH TO ACTON OS EXP 257 (E)

A gentle stroll in Britain’s countryside can transport you across great periods of British history. The five-mile circular walk from Nantwich to Acton in Cheshire is a perfect example. Starting in the 14th-Century at St Mary’s Church in Nantwich, you’ll skip ahead to the 16th-Century and the Great Fire which destroyed much of the town. Heading to Acton, you can imagine the drive for industrial progress as you walk along the Shropshire Union Canal, before carvings in Acton church whisk you back to Saxon times. Crossing the green fields back to Nantwich, you’ll be on the site of a decisive Parliamentarian victory in January 1644, widely regarded as the turning point in the Civil War. ■ For details ring Nantwich TIC on 01270 610 983 or go to www.visitchester.com WALK

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War hero On 14 January 1944, a brave American pilot gave his life by staying in his stricken Thunderbolt fighter plane so that he could bring it down away from the town of Nantwich. The heroic actions of 1st Lieutenant Arthur L Brown are commemorated in a touching memorial near the River Weaver.

Thunderbolt fighter

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■ CHESHIRE

King of the castle This Cheshire walk rewards you with wooded hills, quiet country lanes and views from a 13th-Century castle •SU LK

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Beeston Castle offers 360degree views

This beautiful route takes in Peckforton Hills, hidden villages, and fine views from the top of Beeston Castle. Starting from the Burwardsley Candle Workshops, it’s an easy walk through the woodlands. You’ll pass beneath Peckforton Castle, and emerge to see the ruins of Beeston Castle standing on the rocky hillside. The castle was built on the site of a Bronze Age hill fort in 1225 by Ranulf, the sixth Earl of Chester. He used castle-building methods learned during the Crusades to build an impregnable fortress. The castle saw battle during the English Civil War – falling into the hands of the victorious Parliamentarians in 1646. Today, a steep climb to the castle summit is worth the effort – you’re rewarded with sweeping 360degree views of the surrounding hills and countryside. The next stretch takes you into the gently rolling hills along country lanes and through fields and woodland. Following the Eddisbury Way and Sandstone Trail, you eventually arrive back at the Peckforton Hills near the start at Burwardsley, where a short but very steep section is followed by a gentle climb to the woodland ridge. Through the trees at the top of Bulkeley you can still catch tantalising glimpses of the countryside, framed by the branches as the fields stretch away to the east. Onward from Bulkeley Hill it’s nearly all downhill through the fields back to the start. ■ For details ring Chester TIC on 01244 402 111 or

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Directions Distance: 7.5 miles Time: 4-5 hours, allow an hour extra if visiting Beeston Castle From the car park in front of Cheshire Workshops in Burwardsley, turn left up to the junction, then right and immediately left, past the Pheasant Inn B . Follow the track to its end and into woodland, joining the marked Sandstone Trail. Turn left following signs to Beeston Castle. After passing through some woodland you’ll arrive at the castle C . Once you’ve visited it, turn left out of the castle and pass two roads on the right.

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At the junction, turn right past Home Farm, then at a sharp left turn D follow the track, crossing the railway. Cross a stile to your left E , watching your footing, then cross another stile and turn left, heading back toward the railway. At the railway bridge F , take the stile on the left and follow Eddisbury Way signs over fields and stiles to a road. Continue straight on, over the crossroads G , following the road and continue straight on at a sharp left turn H . Take the Eddisbury Way past Outlanes Farm on the left. Turn left onto a track and soon left again at the wooden sign. Cross another road, climb

The Sandstone Trail

the steep slope and cross the field. Turn left down the road to a junction. Go left, then right onto the Sandstone Trail, following it through Bulkeley Hill’s woodlands I . The path skirts the steep slope, keeping it to your left. After exiting the woods, follow the Sandstone Trail diagonally across a field to a road junction, and continue straight on. Just before the house on the right J , turn right over the style and then left over another style. Follow the footpath through fields reaching Sara Lane. Turn right and head back to the car park. The trail extends for 32 miles

FRODSHAM OS EXP 268 (N)

The Sandstone Trail is a hugely rewarding walk which meanders through fern-carpeted woodlands before breaking out to reveal epic views across the Cheshire countryside. To cover the full 32 miles takes several days, but recently it’s been extended and split into three sections, each of which make an enjoyable day’s walk. Furthermore, as the Trail

connects the towns of Frodsham, Willington, Bickerton and Whitchurch, you can experience the great outdoors without feeling too remote as bars, cafes and hotels are never far away. There are few facilities on the Trail itself so you’ll need to pack for the day. Some parts of the Trail are also quite steep, while other sections cover rougher terrain, so

appropriate footwear and care should be taken. But with such a variety of scenery, the ingredients are there for a great day’s walk. ■ For details ring Northwich TIC on 01606 353 534 or go to www.visitchester.com

The amazing view from Alderley Edge

A Knight’s Trail ALDERLEY EDGE OS EXP 268 (N)

For many visitors, the enjoyment of Alderley Edge lies in reaching the highest point – the sandstone outcrops boasting panoramic views across Manchester, Cheshire and the Peak District. For others however, the attraction is to be found underground. The wooded area is rich in folk tales and it’s reputed that Arthur and his knights lie in an underground chamber, waiting for their country to call them. Either way, Alderley Edge makes for a great day out. From the National Trust car park the route winds through towering pine and beech woodland and across fields. It’s a gentle walk, although care should be taken over the tree roots that invade some footpaths. There are plenty of secluded paths to explore along the way, as well as fascinating stop-offs such as Wizard’s Well. Alderley Edge is also of great archaeological interest. From the Bronze Age until the early 20th-Century, it was famous for its copper mines, and you can still visit some of them today. ■ For info call 01625 584 412 or see www.nationaltrust.org.uk WALK

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■ CHESHIRE WALK The Roman 50 Trail

CHESTER OS EXP 266 (S)

The Romans built a fortress in Chester in the first century and such is their legacy, you could be forgiven for thinking they’d never left. Although the original fortress now lies beneath modern Chester, you can get a feel for Roman life at the Dewa Roman Experience. Packed with exhibits, it’s a great place to start your Roman exploration. From here, walk to the Roman amphitheatre – the largest of its kind in the UK– where an archaeological team is currently working. This marks a good place to pick up the city wall. The original wall has undergone structural changes but you can still enter into the spirit of a proud Centurion on the two-mile walk. It also makes for a great visual introduction to Chester, offering such landmarks as Chester Cathedral, Chester Castle and the Eastgate Clock. ■ For details ring Chester TIC on 01244 402 111 or go to www.visitchester.com

Part of the historic legacy left by the Romans in Chester

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White Nancy BOLLINGTON OS EXP OL 24 (W)

No one is entirely sure when the 15-foot folly White Nancy was built, or even how it got its name, but few landmarks provide such uplifting views. Walkers either start out from the nearby town of Bollington or park near the Redway Tavern and take the farm road. Despite its lofty position, the climb up to White Nancy isn’t too strenuous. The path contours the hill up to the ridge, known as the Saddle of Kerridge, and the emblematic white building is just a short distance further along. Built as a summer house by the Gaskell family, who lived at Ingersley Hall, the building

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Cathedral Refectory

All 15 feet of White Nancy

houses a large stone table and seating all around the wall. With striking views across the expanse of Cheshire it makes a wonderful spot for a picnic, although bring your own seating as the doorway was filled in some time ago. ■ For details ring Macclesfield TIC on 01625 504 114 or go to www.visitchester.com

William Roache

Built in the 13th-Century, the refectory in Chester Cathedral was where the monks would sit to eat their food. You can still enjoy a bite to eat in the atmospheric surroundings, although these days it’s steak and ale pie that’s on the menu. You don’t have to sit in silence either.

KEN BARLOW, CORONATION STREET

I love the English countryside and I love walking. One of my favourite walks is around The Carrs in Wilmslow and takes me around Styall Mill in Cheshire. We’re very lucky up here in the Northwest, we have some of the most beautiful countryside in Britain.

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■ COMPETITION

WIN!

A break in rural Lancashire Win a fabulous short break for two in Lancashire’s Forest of Bowland To rest and rejuvenate those tired feet, this fantastic prize includes two nights bed and breakfast at the luxurious Inn at Whitewell. One of only 17 ‘Great Inns of Britain’, this country retreat will reward your exertion with roaring log fires and yawning sofas to lounge in. Having worked up an appetite you will welcome the wholesome food cooked up by gifted young chef Jamie Cadman and his team. Using local produce when available, classic English dishes are served up in an exquisitely appointed restaurant where you can enjoy more breathtaking views of the spectacular Lancashire countryside. You can call the Inn at Whitewell on 01200 448222.

For a chance to win this fantastic prize, simply fill in the brief questionnaire in the middle of this brochure and return it to the freepost address. Alternatively log onto www.visitenglandsnorthwest.com/walking before 13 April 2006 and fill in the online form.

Terms and conditions No entries will be accepted from the employees or their families of Haymarket Magazines Ltd, ITV Granada, the Northwest Regional Development Agency and any other companies associated with the competition.The winners will be the first correct entries drawn. The decision of the NWDA is final and no correspondence will be entered into. No alternative prize will be given, and the closing date for entries is 13 April 2006. All winners will be notified as soon as possible after the closing date of the competition. No responsibility will be accepted for entries lost, damaged or delayed in transit. Illegible or altered entries will be disqualified. By entering this competition, competitors will be deemed to have accepted and agreed to be bound by the rules, and all entry instructions given are deemed to form part of the rules of the competition. If you’d like to receive information on special offers and new products from Haymarket, the NWDA and our partner companies, please indicate this in your entry form with OPT IN.

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www.visitenglandsnorthwest.com/walking

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Northwest Regional Development Agency FREEPOST ADM 3926 Warrington WA1 1WH


Win a luxurious short break for two in rural Lancashire Thank you for browsing our guide to 50 Fabulous Walks in England’s Northwest. We constantly strive to improve our product and would be very grateful if you could spare a few moments to complete the questionnaire below. In return, your details will be entered into our free prize draw to win a luxurious break staying at the Inn at Whitewell, one of 17 Great Inns of Britain and set within the stunning scenery of the Forest of Bowland, an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. We hope to welcome you to the most beautiful corner of England very soon. 1. How did you obtain this Guide?

Phoned Guide Line (0845 600 6040) ❑1 Internet (visitenglandsnorthwest.com) ❑2 A Black’s or Milletts Store ❑3 Other ❑4 If you ticked box 1 or 2, where did you see the phone number or website advertised?

4. Which of the following age groups are you in?

❑ 24 or under ❑ 25-34

❑ 35-44

❑ 45-54

❑ 55-64

❑ 65+

5. What do you enjoy while on holiday?

❑ ❑ ❑ ❑ ❑ ❑ ❑ ❑ ❑ ❑

Events and festivals Walking Sports Eating out Touring by car Shopping Boat trips Pubs Cycling Visiting friends and relatives

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

❑ ❑ ❑ ❑ ❑ ❑ ❑ ❑ ❑ ❑

Museums and galleries Historic buildings Parks and gardens Wildlife sites City breaks Clubs and nightlife Seaside resorts Leisure/Theme parks Picturesque villages Other (please specify)

11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20

6. What comments do you have about this Guide?

Fold, moisten and seal

If you ticked 'other' please specify

2. These questions are designed to tell us about your personal values and can help us to understand more about what you consider when deciding where to go for holidays and days out. a) Please indicate the extent to which you are prepared to pay more for the following characteristics of a service or holiday product 0 means that you would not be prepared to pay more, 10 means you would definitely be prepared to pay more To be given individual attention For products that use the most advanced technology For a fashionable brand

Not pay more 0

Pay more 10

3. Do you use the Internet? At home? At work?

NW Insert.indd 2-3

❑ ❑

Yes Yes

❑ ❑

No No

Yes

No

8. How does the new ‘50 Fabulous Walks in England’s Northwest’ compare with last year’s Walking brochure?

Much better

Better

The same

Worse

Much worse

a) Please give reasons for above

Please tick the box if you do not wish to receive further information from the Northwest Regional Development Agency (NWDA) & ITV Granada ❑ and other carefully selected tourism organisations ❑

b) Different people have different views about themselves. To what extent do you agree or disagree with each statement on a scale of 0-10? 0 means you strongly disagree and 10 means you strongly agree I like to try things that are new to me I am happy to do my own thing regardless of what others might think I prefer to live a relaxed and moderate pace of life I find it easy to justify buying expensive alternatives Arts and culture are an important part of who I am I have a fond liking for things that others might describe as old fashioned Function is more important than style

7. Did you see the 2004 NWDA/Granada publication ‘25 Great Walks in England’s Northwest’?

Disagree 0

Your name Your address

Agree 10

Postcode Email address May we email you?

❑y

❑n

Competition Rules ● No cash alternatives offered ● All entrants must be 18 or over ● All winners will be responsible for their own transport to and from Lancashire ● Details of winners can be obtained by writing to the Northwest Regional Development Agency (NWDA) enclosing an S.A.E

When you have completed this form, please tear along the perforation, fold along the crease, and put it in the post. FREE PRIZE DRAW TERMS & CONDITIONS: Win a two-night break for two people (sharing) including bed & breakfast at The Inn at Whitewell. All other and additional costs to be paid for as taken. The winner will be drawn at random and will be notified by post. No entries from anyone under 18 years of age. No correspondence entered into. No purchase necessary. Closing date 13 April 2006.

22/8/05 11:44:12 am


Featured walks and where to find them

•SU LK

WALK

1

•SUP LK

RWA PE

Look for the ‘Superwalk’ symbol throughout the guide

9

A69 5

8

CARLISLE

ERWA

Cumbria 1

Grasmere NentValley 3 Grizedale Forest 4 Keswick 5 Hadrian’s Wall 6 Ullock Pike 7 Casterton Sheepfolds 8 TalkinTarn 9 Silloth 10 Humphrey Head 11 Walney Island 12 Coniston 13 Muncaster Fell 14 Haweswater 15 Bowness 2

2

Travelling to the Northwest

A66

Whether you’re travelling by road, rail or air, the Northwest’s transport infrastructure is excellent. It’s easy to get there, and once you are there, you’ll find you can navigate the region without difficulty.

KESWICK

6

4

A591

A595

1

BY ROAD

14

The Northwest is well served by its trunk road network.The M6 runs through the whole region via Warrington, Wigan, Preston and Lancaster to Carlisle in the north. The M53, M56 and M62 connect west to east, running from Merseyside, Chester and North Wales through Manchester and across the Pennines. Manchester itself has an excellent road network too, and the M56,M61,M63,M66 and M62 make getting in and around the city simple. Also, National Express coaches serve the entire region.

AMBLESIDE 15 12

Lancashire 16

Dunsop Fell 17 Irwell SculptureTrail 18 Bilsborrow 19 LuneValley 20 Pendle Hill 21 Blackpool Seafront 22 Salthill Quarry Reserve 23 Leeds & Liverpool Canal 24 Hoghton Gorge 25 Lancaster Williamson Park 26 Wycoller Country Park 27 Nabs HeadVillage

3

13

KENDAL

7 10 19

11

LANCASTER 16

M6

18

BLACKPOOL

City centre 29 Hollingworth 30 The Quays 31 Rivington 32 Industrial Revolution walk 33 Saddleworth 28

22 20

21

M55

26 27 PRESTON 24 BLACKBURN 17

M65 A565

Merseyside 34 Liverpool Docks

31

23

37 Formby Point 39 Liverpool city centre

34

M53

49 Kerridge & White Nancy 50 Roman Chester

Bold copy denotes‘Superwalk’

33

WARRINGTON

35

M56

47

48

43 Haslington

48 SandstoneTrail

M62

45

40

42 Delamere Forest Park

47 Alderley Edge

29

28 32 30

M62

LIVERPOOL

38

M66

MANCHESTER

39

41 Marbury & Anderton

46 Beeston Castle

WIGAN

M57

36

38 Hilbre Islands

45 Lymm Dam

BOLTON

37

36 The Sefton Coast

44 Nantwich -Acton

BY AIR

M61

SOUTHPORT

35 Heswall

Cheshire

The West Coast Main Line and its feeders run from Crewe through Warrington, Wigan, Preston, Lancaster and up to Carlisle, providing the principal route to and from the South, Scotland and mainland Europe. Manchester has two mainline stations, Victoria and Piccadilly, providing direct links to most UK cities. Northern Spirit and Arriva Trains operate cross-Pennine routes, linking North Wales, Merseyside and Manchester with Leeds, York and Newcastle. There are over 40 railway stations in Cheshire and more than 30 serving Cumbria. At the region’s hub, ManchesterAirport station operates 24 hours a day and provides connections across the Northwest including Windermere, Barrow-in-Furness and the Western lakes and coast.

25

Greater Manchester

40 Penny Lane

BY RAIL

A537 42

50

M6

CHESTER A41 46

A534

49

MACCLESFIELD

41

43

CREWE

44

ManchesterAirport provides excellent links to the Northwest from other UK airports and mainland Europe. London and the Northwest are linked by frequent 50-minute shuttles. Liverpool John LennonAirport also serves a broad range of UK and European destinations, including Ireland and the Isle of Man. Both airports are convenient for the entire region, although those heading for Cumbria and the Lake District should know that Blackpool, Glasgow, Leeds/Bradford and Newcastle airports are also close to speedy links to the area.

OS Explorer maps

Ordnance Survey produce high quality and highly detailed maps suitable for those planning to embark on any walk in the UK.For each of the 50 walks in this brochure we have given the code for the map covering that area. Look out for this symbol

North Lakes DERWENT WATER OS EXP OL4 (S)

adjacent to the header for each walk.Maps are available on the high street, filling stations and at Tourist Information Centres across the region. Visit www.ordnancesurvey.co.uk or call 08456 05 05 05 for more information.


England’s Northwest

THE PERFECT PLACE TO WALK

Does the Northwest have all the best walks? It’s a strong contender.Footpaths and organised trails criss-cross the country from the Solway Firth to Cheshire, giving you more freedom than ever to explore and enjoy the region’s gloriously varied landscape.In this guide,you’ll find 50 of the area’s finest walks,both rural and urban.Fifty,because it’s ITV’s 50th birthday this year. We hope these walks inspire you to discover the best of the Northwest.There’s something for everyone,from classic Lake District routes and dreamy canal paths to trails kids will love and even a stroll round

Check before you go… All of the walks in this guide have been thoroughly researched and were correct at time of going to press. However, do check via the telephone number or website provided before you set out – things can change and all walk routes are subject to alteration or closure due to Editors Rob Ganley, Sam Upton Art Director Tim Scott Art Editor Chris Rowe Designer Andrew Ellison Picture Editors Emily Noakes, Jenny Quiggin Writers Chris Silk, Eloise Seddon, Tim Oldham, Nick Moore Sub-editors Steve Bidmead, Danny Plunkett, Caroline Duggan Group Production Manager

… follow the Countryside Code

works by the local landowners, authorities, transport or utility companies. Also remember that weather conditions can make some routes difficult, and do read and follow our safety advice on page 4.

Jane Emmas Production Manager Lisa Harris Account Director Cormac Bourne Account Manager Rachel Marks Group Managing Editor Johnny Aldred Publishing Director Simon Kanter

Manchester’s music shrines – every reason to be part of the new walking trend. Walking is also a direct route to fitness.In an age of diets and ritzy gyms, it’s stealth health! The benefits of a regular walk, at a reasonably brisk pace, include improvements in blood pressure, stamina and joint condition.It’s great for your heart and if you stick with a programme, as well as eating healthily,you’ll find that your energy levels gradually increase,you feel better overall and, over the long term, it’s likely that you’ll find yourself losing weight in a sustainable way. So get your boots on...

Knowing what to do when walking in the country is mostly common sense, but always remember The Countryside Code: ● Be safe – plan ahead and follow any signs ● Leave gates and property as you find them ● Protect plants and animals, and take your litter home ● Keep dogs under

Published by The Marketing Department, Northwest Regional Development Agency (NWDA), Renaissance House, PO Box 37, Centre Park, Warrington WA11 XB Tel: 01925 400100 www.nwda.co.uk

With thanks to: Nick Brooks-Sykes, Published September 2005 Rob Martell & Helen Batte at NWDA, Repro by Icon Reproduction Printed by St Ives Roche Vicky Matthews at ITV Granada

control ● Consider other people. For more on the Code, details of on the Right of OpenAccess, a Countryside Calendar and a great Creature Comforts video kids will love, go to www.countrysideaccess.gov.uk

Produced by Haymarket Network Tel: 020 8267 5000 www.haycustpub.co.uk This guide has been prepared by Haymarket Network and is brought to you by The Northwest Regional Development Agency. No part of this guide may be reproduced in any form without permission from the publisher, except for the quotation of brief passages for review. The publishers and authors

have done their best to ensure the accuracy of all the information in 50 Fabulous Walks in England’s Northwest, but can accept no responsibility for any loss, injury or inconvenience sustained as a result of information or advice contained in the guide.

Cover pic: Martindale, Cumbria*

Photographic Credits ©: Alamy; Alan M Robinson/CTB; Alan Novelli/Britainonview; allOver photography/Alamy; Andy Stothert/CTB; Anthony Wiles/Alamy; Aquarius Collection; Ben Barden/CTB; Blacks; *Britain on View; Britainonview/ Marion Bu; Britainonview/David Sellman; Bryon Caley/Alamy; Chris Silk; CTB; Detail Heritage/Alamy; Dietmar Nill; East Lancashire Railway; Edward Allington; Edward Bowness/CTB; Empics; GC Minerals/Alamy; Getty Images; Granada; Grant Pritchard; Ian Lawson/NWDA; Ian McKinnell/Alamy; Joe Benedict/Alamy; Joe Fildes; Jon Sparks/Alamy; Lancashire and Blackpool Tourist Board; Lancaster Tourism; Leslie Garland Picture Library/Alamy; Merseyside Partnership; Mike Hill/Alamy; Moviestore Collection; NCWP; Nenthead Mines Heritage Centre; Peter Owen; Peter Titmuss/Alamy; Popperfoto/Alamy; Rex Features; Britainonview/Richard Watson; Salford Council; Simo Bogdanovic/Alamy;The Wildlife Trust; Tony Riley/CTB; United Utilities;Wildscape/Alamy;Wirral Borough Council; www.britainonview.com; www.ldsm.org.uk; Geoff Simpson/NaturePL;Alan Novelli/Britainonview;Anderton boat lift; Chris Ballentine/Alamy; David Crausby/Alamy; David Lyons/Alamy; Elmtree Images/Alamy; Fotofacade/Alamy; Holt Studios/Alamy; Kobal Collection; Laurie Tetley/Alamy; Len Grant Photography/Alamy; Leslie Garland Picture Library/Alamy; MEPL; Merseyside Photo Library/Alamy; MIDAS/Nick Harrison; Mike Lane/Alamy; Mike Ralph; Neil Hardwick/Alamy; Nigel Ollis/Alamy; Pat Bennett/Alamy; PCL/Alamy; Scenics & Science/Alamy, SHOUT/Alamy;Tony Pleavin/Alamy;Topix/Alamy;Wildscape;The L S Lowry Collection, Salford; The Country Press Agency. Our thanks to everyone who kindly supplied photographs. The publishers have credited pictures where possible - we apologise for any unitentional omissions.


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