September/October 2010 issue by Peter Szymczak

new resorts + restaurants | harvest fests | Wine Reviews September | october 2010

eat play taste

Washington Prosser • Le avenworth • Bellingham

Nose -to -tail cooking with Vancouver, B.C.’s

Chef Robert Belcham

Pigs & Pinot

at Oregon’s big table farm

$4.95 U.S.

$4.95 Canada

Raise a carton to Northwest farmers. Go ahead and raise a tall one to celebrate the goodness of milk from the pastured cows of our Northwest farms. Organic Valley farmers own the business, so we thought you'd like to meet us on our milk cartons - on our web site, too. We're working for you, the cows, and the planet. Cheers!

Mindy Irvine, Organic Valley Farm Friend since 2006

Enter to win a year of FREE milk. Details at www.drinkOV.com

14 Volume 24, Number 4 | September/October 2010 | www.nwpalate.com

photo by Levy Sheckler

features

Eat, Play, Taste Washington

Recent Openings 9

From the fertile winegrowing valleys of southeastern Washington to the coastal waters of the northwest, discover three of the Evergreen State’s top attractions.

28 34 38

A Taste of Prosser:

Sky’s the Limit in Yakima Valley

Go to the heart of Washington’s wine country, the tiny, yet fast-growing village of Prosser. By Teri Citterman

Preview the newest restaurants and resorts, from seafood in Seattle, and espresso in Stumptown, to fine island dining, and appetizing Asian cuisine.

A Taste of Bellingham:

Bay City Lights

Datebook 17

Check out the sights in and around this bayfront community, abounding with historic, artistic, and gastronomic adventures. By Kris Wetherbee

A Taste of Leavenworth:

Sweet Bavarian Dreams

Mark your calendar this fall for fun harvest festivals, grape stomps, tours of local farms, and other

The Alpine-themed town in the eastern foothills of the Cascades is a worthy culinary destination beyond brats and beers—believe it! By MJ Cody

departments

gourmet galas taking place throughout the Northwest.

In the Kitchen 22

Tasting Notes 46

Chef Robert Belcham, of Refuel and Campagnolo restaurants in Vancouver, B.C., talks about his nose-to-tail cooking philosophy.

Find the finest recent Northwest wines to put in the cellar, or to pair tonight with seasonal and celebrated dishes.

By Peter Szymczak

Compiled by Cole Danehower

Farm to Table 42

Pick of the Palate 58

Life on Big Table Farm, in Gaston, Oregon, is a mixture of painting, raising pigs, and making excellent small-production Pinot Noirs. By Kathleen Bauer

“Refined,” “alluring,” “lithe and graceful”. This issue’s top taste goes to the Northwest Chardonnay made by Oregon’s Bergström Wines. By Cole Danehower

 Painting by Clare Carver, Big Table Farm On the cover: The view from Windy Point Winery in Wapato, Washington. Photo credit: Lance Johnson / Image West Photo / Yakima Washington

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Northwest Palate | September/October 2010

starters

Even our chickens help make your dining experience from scratch!

Winner, James Beard Award

Herbfarm Chef Keith Luce spent his

early years on a farm. “God really is in the details,” he explains. “Extraordinary food is always close to the source.” That’s why we gather our own eggs each morning. Churn our own cultured butter. Farm heritage herbs, fruits, and vegetables. Raise bees. Craft farmstead cheeses. Bake artisan bread. And cure and age all of our own meats. For starters. Experience the soul of the Puget Sound region with a 4½-hour seasonal dinner in 9 unfolding courses. Thursday thru Sunday. Call today or visit our web site for reservations and more information.

The Herbfarm 14590 Northeast 145th Street Woodinville, Washington 98072

theherbfarm.com 425-485-5300

September/October 2010 | Northwest Palate

Buy Local

s long as Americans value “cheap” over “good” in their food buying decisions, the future of our vital local food economies will be threatened. I like to think of farmers, winemakers, distillers, and food crafters as the ultimate content creators. Clare Carver and Brian Marcy of Big Table Farm (profiled in this issue on page 42), set a fine Northwest example: they craft and sell their own wines that are distinct each vintage, and they personally raise and humanely slaughter their pigs for the meat they produce. They also tend a large vegetable garden that supplies most of their food and the large farm dinners they host for people who buy their wines. Just like writers, composers, and artists, these artisan food and beverage makers produce original content. But instead of words or notes or colors, their content consists of flavor, nutrition, character, and quality. And their content may be the most important of all, since it nourishes our bodies even more than it feeds our souls. In fact, their content does both. Unfortunately, consumers by and large don’t value the content produced by artisan agriculturalists. We’d rather get a good price deal than a good food product. It saddens me when people delight in the food bargains at discount chains like Trader Joe’s (342 stores), Costco (560-plus locations), and Walmart (8,446 “retail units” worldwide), rather than pay a little more to support a local farm-and-food economy. Dollars spent at Trader Joe’s, for instance, do not support local family farmers or food producers. The Germanowned chain’s primary stated value is low price, not local-sourcing. The same can be said of Costco and Walmart. Indeed, such chains’ emphasis on high-volume packaged “gourmet” products undercuts the ability of local artisan producers of the same product types to compete.

Independent, small family farmers simply can’t achieve the economies of scale required for the discount pricing required by behemoth chains. Five ears of agri-corp-grown Iowa corn for $1 at the mega-grocer is a better deal than local organic corn at $0.59 an ear at the farmers market or local-sourcing groceries like New Seasons, Metropolitan Market, or Whole Foods. But what quality, nutrition, flavor, and character are sacrificed for the sake of low prices? Who cares—it’s cheap, and that’s better … right? An individual local family grew the organic corn (with all the attendant environmental benefits), and its sale contributes in myriad ways to the local economy as the positive ripple effects of their business spreads throughout the community. The “extra” cost of the locally farmed corn is a price we should all be willing to pay for the long-term benefits a viable farm economy provides. There’s a lot of talk these days about sustainable farming; there needs to be more talk about sustainable farming economies. Believe me, I know how tough it is to spend more these days for anything! The Great Recession affects us all and choosing to spend more for local food can be difficult. But it is worthwhile, not just for our own health and well-being, but also for the survivability of local food economies and the benefits they contribute to our region. I value more the quality of what my household eats and drinks than I do finding the lowest possible price for what we put into our bodies. I’ll give up cable TV before I’ll give up my farmers market or my local-sourcing grocery. I wish more would do the same.

Cole Danehower, Editor-in-Chief

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Northwest Palate | September/October 2010

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2258 Wine Country Road | Prosser, Washington 99350 p 509.786.7277 | www.desertwindwinery.com

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1/25/10 11:19:50 AM

Contributors

Kathleen Bauer, Teri Citterman, MJ Cody, Leslie Miller, Jacqueline Pruner, Kris Wetherbee, Lorna Yee

Contributing Photographers

Sean Balko, Kathleen Bauer, Summer Cronk, Rod Del Pozo, Andrei Federov, Jay Friedman, Lance Johnson, Tracey Kusiewicz, Brian Marcy, John Marshal, Jacqueline Pruner, Monique Rodriguez, Julie Rylander, Levy Sheckler, Chris Mason Stearns, Mieke Strand, Peter Szymczak, Sunny Walter, Rick Wetherbee, Gary Wilson

Cole Danehower

Publishers

Cameron Nagel

Editor-In-Chief Cole Danehower Managing Editor Peter Szymczak

Tasting Panelists

Anita Boomer, Cole Danehower, Larry Halkinrude, Harry Hertscheg, Cameron Nagel, Peter Szymczak

Advertising

Art Director Vanessa Duff

Contributing Editors Tim Pawsey, Shelora Sheldan Editorial Interns Kamila Kuhn, Kate Malinoski

National & Regional

Fatima Young: 360-631-5883 • fatima@nwpalate.com

Oregon

Reagan Nauheim: 503-805-6405 • reagan@nwpalate.com

British Columbia & Washington

Ashly Berg: 206-369-5736 • ashly@nwpalate.com

Northwest Palate magazine (ISSN 0892-8363) is published bimonthly by Pacifica Publishing, Inc., 1321 SW Maplecrest Dr., Portland, OR 97219 and is available by mail subscription at the rate of $21 for one year, $39 for two years. • The Canadian subscription rate is $35cdn per year. The European air-mail subscription rate is $57usd per year. Send payment to: Northwest Palate, P.O. Box 10860, Portland, OR 97296-0860 Phone: 503-224-6039 or 1-800-398-7842. • Website: nwpalate.com • Subscriber Services: info@nwpalate.com • Letters to the Editor: editorial@nwpalate.com. • For advertising information and rate cards, phone: 1-800-398-7842. • Retail sales program available. • Periodicals Postage Paid at Portland, Oregon. Postmaster: Send address changes to Northwest Palate Magazine, P.O. Box 10860, Portland, OR 97296-0860. PUBLICATIONS MAIL AGREEMENT NO. 40035723. RETURN UNDELIVERABLE CANADIAN ADDRESSES TO EXPRESS MESSENGER INTERNATIONAL P.O. BOX 25058 LONDON BRC, ONTARIO, CANADA N6C 6A8 • © 2010 Pacifica Publishing, Inc. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any manner, including photocopying, without written permission.

September/October 2010 | Northwest Palate

www.nwpalate.com

by our contributors

Books and websites of note from Northwest Palate writers

MJ CODY

TERI CITTERMAN

LESLIE MILLER

LORNA YEE

Best Places to Stay— Pacific Northwest

Best Places to Kiss in the Northwest

Ethan Stowell’s New Italian Kitchen

The Newlywed Kitchen

MJ Cody is co-editor of Wild in the City—A Guide to Portland Metropolitan Greenspaces; author of Our Portland; and editor of the sixth edition of Best Places to Stay—Pacific Northwest. She has written for The Seattle Times, Horizon Air, Audubon Magazine, Travel Oregon, and other publications. Her regular column, “Sleeping Around the Northwest,” appears in the Sunday Oregonian travel section. Follow her travels online at www.sleeparoundnw.com.

Teri Citterman blends wine with life. The Seattle resident is a Napa Valley Wine Writers Editor’s Choice Award recipient, and writes for a variety of regional and national wine publications. She’s the editor of the 10th edition of Best Places to Kiss in the Northwest and the author of the Northwest Wine Journal. For more of her wine musings, visit her blog at www.anurbansip.com.

Seattle-based Leslie Miller has penned and collaborated on numerous essays, articles, and books. Her most recent projects include Ethan Stowell’s New Italian Kitchen, the first cookbook from the James Beard Foundation Awards-nominated chef, and Women Who Eat, a collection of essays by home cooks and chefs that pays tribute to food obsessions.

Lorna Yee is the co-author of The Newlywed Kitchen: Delicious Meals for Couples Cooking Together and a Seattle Magazine columnist. When not writing about food, she enjoys cooking, baking, and photographing for her personal blog, www.thecookbookchronicles. com, or visiting the farmers market with her puppy, Kimchee. To counteract the effects of her immoderate consumption of pastries and bacon, Lorna is currently training for a marathon.

Photo by gail howard

Photo by Dennis Wise

Photo by Kathryn Barnard

Photo by SANDY CARPENTER

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Northwest Palate | September/October 2010

washington

recent openings

Blueacre Seafood Cedarbrook Lodge Wild Ginger Allium

Oregon Irving Street Kitchen Public Domain

british columbia Oru

photo by Sean Balko/Film Work Studios

The EdGe

washington …the traditional Peruvian ceviche is given a Northwest twist with silken pieces of giant clam, accented with giant Andean corn kernels and a bit of aji amarilla spice Totten Inlet Geoduck Tiradito 

Blueacre Seafood 1700 7th Ave., Seattle, WA 206-659-0737 www.blueacreseafood.com

iners still mourning the abrupt shuttering of The Oceanaire in 2009 were thrilled to see those familiar deco doors open once again, the space and menu reinvigorated by chef/owner Kevin Davis and his wife Terresa. Gone is the over-the-top opulence, replaced

by gleaming stainless steel and cobalt neon reminiscent of the Davis’ popular Steelhead Diner in Pike Place Market. Fans of the Steelhead will recognize more than just the smartcasual decor. Carryovers include affordable shellfish and fish options, gumbo, chowder, and sandwiches. Blueacre’s menu is divided into sections that evoke a grizzled Scottish moor: The Thorny Field (salads), The Hunger (appetizers), and, of course, The Briny Sea. Dishes are inspired by cuisines near and far, in bold preparations that mostly succeed. Totten Inlet Geoduck Tiradito is one such example: the traditional Peruvian ceviche is given a Northwest twist with silken pieces of giant clam, accented with giant Andean corn kernels and a bit of aji amarilla spice. A bowl of Green Curry Penn Cove Mussels demonstrates the kitchen is not afraid of heat. At times, the pristine

ingredients can seem buried by sauces so vivacious and voluminous that the bivalves’ beauty is lost, like crisp-tender razor clams drowning in a pool of mustard vinaigrette. Amiable service and an easy vibe welcome diners at the bar. Choose from the dozen or so carefully sourced local oysters and nearly 20 wines by the glass from the Northwest-rich list. Featured beers are handcrafted in nearby Redmond, Pike Place Market, and Rainier. On the weekends, extensive brunch offerings range from soups and salads to shrimp and grits and smoked salmon hash. Blueacre is a puppy—over-eager at times, but fun with a playful spirit. Patrons expecting the former room’s old-school charm and finesse may be disappointed, but allowed to be its exuberant self, Blueacre Seafood shines. —Leslie Miller

photo by jay friedman

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Northwest Palate | September/October 2010

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310 E. Main St., Eastsound, WA 360-376-4904 www.alliumonorcas.com

isa Nakamura, former executive chef at Seattle’s Qube Restaurant and Kirkland’s Bin Vivant, has jumped over the pond—Puget Sound, that is. She and her husband recently purchased Christina’s on Orcas Island, reopening this past Memorial Day as Allium. (The name derives from the Latin word for garlic and the botanical genus for vegetables like leeks, onions, scallions, and shallots.) The island’s allure is easy to see. Drink in the panoramic waterfront view at one of the umbrella-clad patio table seats on the deck—plus practical touches like hand fans for sunny days and cozy blankets for breezy nights—or sup within the rural-chic dining room. While perusing the menu, try a creative cocktail like the Orcasm (vodka, Cointreau, and a splash of Chambord) or a glass of wine. Pours are available in samplefriendly as well as five-ounce sizes. The international list has several Northwest standouts, including Dusky Goose from Oregon’s Dundee Hills and Thurston Wolfe from Prosser, Washington. Among the smaller plates, the Daily Gnocchi entices with its white truffle oil drizzle, while Roasted Vegetables with Caramelized Onion and Herb Dip encourages diners to “Eat your veggies and support our farmers!” Locally and regionally sourced foods from farmers in the San Juan Islands are highlighted on the menu. Entrées include Polenta with Roasted Forest Mushrooms and a sunny side up duck egg from Orcas Island’s Black Dog Farms and Mount Townsend’s Cirrus Cheese, and

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—Jacqueline Pruner

Cedarbrook Lodge

vegetables, and summer berries, which serves as the inspiration for his seasonally inspired menus. A recent multi-course meal featured lacquered, crisp-skinned Snake River Farms pork belly accented with Dijon mustard and fresh-from-the-garden baby turnips, followed by tender Painted Hills Natural Beef strip loin with morels and peas, and capped with a cooling quenelle of homemade fromage blanc ice cream with strawberries. In the mood for something a little more low-key? Spend the evening curled up in the communal living room with a movie. An added perk for hotel guests: old-fashioned candy jars filled with malted milk balls and yogurt-covered pretzels for late-night snacking, and a

18525 36th Ave. S., Seattle, WA 206-901-9268 www.cedarbrooklodge.com

Located on 18 acres of restored wetlands, Cedarbrook Lodge is designed for travelers in search of a tranquil stay, with the added convenience of airport proximity

ecluded in a sleepy suburban stretch by SeaTac airport is this 104-room retreat. Located on 18 acres of restored wetlands, Cedarbrook Lodge is designed for travelers in search of a tranquil stay, with the added convenience of airport proximity. This petfriendly hotel boasts sleek rooms with oversized soaking tubs, original artwork, and floor-toceiling windows that overlook the manicured grounds. Management is committed to protecting the ecological landscape of the property. A mycelium inoculation system—natural water filtration utilizing cultivated oyster mushrooms—is being established to purify water runoff and to irrigate the lawns and chef’s garden. Spent cooking oil is recycled, low-energy bulbs are used throughout the lodge, and to-go food packaging is fully compostable, among other ecologically minded practices. Fresh farm-to-table cuisine is available on-site at Copperleaf Restaurant. The 34-seater serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily to guests staying at the lodge as well as diners just dropping in. Chef Mark Bodinet, formerly of The French Laundry, helms the kitchen. He also tends a small garden planted with herbs, lettuces, root

photo courtesy of Cedarbrook Lodge

photo by jaCqueline pruner

Allium

Alaskan Halibut Filet with summer zucchini and a twice-baked tater. Tempting desserts range from Chocolate Puddin’ Cake to a chef’s selection of three artisan cheeses. Finish with a freshly brewed cup of Allium’s specially blended mediumroast coffee made on-island by Local Goods. There’s even Treats for da Poochie—vegetarian, fish, and gluten-free doggie biscuits—to take home. Whether a quick bite between ferries or a leisurely repast after a day of whale watching, Allium is worth an island stopover.

freezer full of gourmet ice cream—all complimentary. With event spaces that can accommodate up to 300 guests, picturesque water features (including a casting pond), an outdoor patio complete with stone fireplace to ward off the night breeze, and spa services, Cedarbrook Lodge is a natural choice for wedding parties, family reunions, or corporate retreats—especially those seeking a “green” locale for their get-together. —Lorna Yee

Northwest Palate | September/October 2010

Photo provided by wild ginger

Wild Ginger 11020 NE 6th St. Ste 90, Bellevue, WA 425-495-8889 www.wildginger.net

E San Franciscobased owners …recycled a defunct restaurant space, warmed up the room’s atmosphere considerably, and capitalized on local ingredients Salmon Gravlax 

ast-side Seattleites who have long savored the Pan-Asian cuisine of Wild Ginger no longer have to trek downtown to get their fix. Founders Rick and Ann Yoder opened Wild Ginger’s second location in Bellevue’s upscale center, The Bravern, last September. No surprise: it has proven to be a popular dining destination. The multi-level space has a dark drama accentuated by architectural accents of steel, wood, leather, and concrete. The bar area is an appropriately intimate and warm space for enjoying a Vanilla Passion Sidecar or gambling on a Ginsing Margarita. The Satay Bar’s gleaming steel stove canopy showcases the cooking action while awaiting servings of Kom Pot Short Ribs (marinated in a mélange of galangal, lemongrass, lime leaves, chiles, turmeric, fish sauce, soy, and honey) or Nam’s Prawns with Cambodian dipping sauce.

The deep menu takes time to peruse, and regardless of what is ordered, one has the nagging suspicion that a better dish may be going unsampled. Wild Ginger Fragrant Duck is a mainstay, with the spicy skin complementing the rich duck meat. Seven Flavor Beef offers quick wok-cooked flank steak strips with an involved spicy and fragrant flavor. Black Pepper Scallops are a simple, light, yet wonderfully tasty seafood choice, while the Tuna Manada delivers a complex and potently spicy experience. —Cole Danehower

oregon Irving Street Kitchen 703 NW 13th Ave., Portland, OR 503-343-9440 www.irvingstreetkitchen.com

ortland’s food community often looks askance at outsider restaurateurs opening new venues: will they respect the city’s local, seasonal, sustainable ethos? In the case of newly opened Irving Street Kitchen, the answer is a resounding “Yes!” San Franciscobased owners Doug Washington and brothers Steve and Mitch

Rosenthal recycled a defunct restaurant space, warmed up the room’s atmosphere considerably, and capitalized on local ingredients—from booze to beef—to present creative, full-flavored, Southern cooking-inspired dishes. Executive chef Sarah Schafer (whose background includes San Francisco’s Frisson and New York’s Gramercy Tavern) has assembled an intriguing menu. For a “First” course, Angels on Horseback—plump oysters wrapped in bacon with remoulade—is a saucy choice, while the house-smoked trout salad with brunoise-diced potatoes and toasted hazelnut vinaigrette is light and refreshing. Also try the Johnston County (North Carolina) ham sliced transparency-thin and served with buttermilk biscuits and red pepper jelly—the pork may not be local, but it’s too good to fight about! For the “Next” course, the grilled duck sausage, confit duck leg, and gingersnap-brown basmati rice with pan drippings is simply spectacular. The house-smoked St. Louis BBQ ribs with broccolini and bourbon-glazed cornbread has an authentically Southern aura, while pan-roasted halibut with white corn, mascarpone, morels, and truffle cream is Northwest cuisine at its finest. Sommelier Nicole Burke has done a remarkable job of creating one of the most intelligently chosen regional wine lists in the city. Her selections highlight superb smaller producers with distinctive wines that are well ahead of the nearly hackneyed glass pours found at so many other places in town. On top of that, the restaurant features a unique barrel-to-bar program, with glass pours coming through custom-designed taps into wine kegs kept with argon, and which are filled at the winery and driven to the restaurant by owner Doug Washington. Such attention to quality seems apparent in all operational aspects. From the warmly attentive staff to the use of local ingredients—beer and spirits included—Irving Street Kitchen fits right in. —Cole Danehower

Photo by Mieke Strand Photography

September/October 2010 | Northwest Palate

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603 SW Broadway, Portland, OR 503-243-6374 www.publicdomaincoffee.com

ith its motto “Great Coffee is Public Domain,” this new coffeehouse in downtown Portland has set out to provide superior cups of coffee—not just something to drink every morning to wake up with, but rather a truly buzz-worthy experience. Public Domain is the first coffeehouse opened by Coffee Bean International, the Oregonbased coffee importer and roaster that started in Eugene in 1972 (its headquarters are now in Portland), and today is an international leader in sustainable, organic, and fair trade coffee. The space on the corner of Alder and Broadway is inviting and modern with stainless and warm wood appointments, Wi-Fi, and ample counters to park your laptop for an afternoon of caffed-up power web surfing. Baristas expertly pull shots on

the high-performance (and madein-Seattle) espresso machine—the Slayer. As they tamp the grounds and adjust the machine’s pressure, baristas welcome conversation with customers standing nearby or sitting at the coffee bar. Weekends at 2pm, the company’s coffee roasters join the discussion at public cuppings: these sessions give java enthusiasts the opportunity to chat with industry professionals and taste various coffees from around the world while learning about the farms where the beans were grown. Happy hours take place every Monday from noon till 1pm, and again Thursday from 4pm to 6pm, when shots are only $1 each. Perk up with a shot of the house espresso, Prometheus—a blend of South American and African coffees that tastes of toasted almonds—or one of the single varietals from Kenya, El Salvador, and Peru. Public Domain also hosts brewing classes on the first Saturday of every month at 11am. Baristas demonstrate different brewing methods and teach the techniques—

photo by Gary Wilson

Public Domain

 …this new coffeehouse in downtown Portland has set out to provide superior cups of coffee—not just something to drink every morning but rather a truly buzz-worthy experience how to achieve the best grind, for example—for making the best coffee at home. Now that’s something to buzz about. —Kamila Kuhn

308 SW First Avenue, Portland Oregon 97204 z 503-295-4979 or 877-844-3447 z www.ShafferFineArt.com www.nwpalate.com

Northwest Palate | September/October 2010



Oru’s kitchen is headed by executive chef Andrew Wong, who describes his style as “Asian brasserie,” which conveys tremendous license for the young chef to strut his stuff

B.c. Oru 1038 Canada Place, Vancouver, B.C. 604-695-5500 www.orucuisine.com

photos by Tracey Kusiewicz

September/October 2010 | Northwest Palate

alk into the lobby of the recently unveiled Fairmont Pacific Rim and you can’t help but be struck by its style and grace compared to the typical hotel foyer. With oversize dark leather chairs, soaring ceiling, and windows looking across to the new convention center, this lobby lounge is a sure lure for postprandial lingering. Climbing the stairs to Oru, I was struck by the overall refreshingly modern setting, with wide-open spaces wrapped in a strikingly minimalist decor bathed in natural light. The mood is a fitting metaphor for the cuisine: Oru’s kitchen is headed by executive chef Andrew Wong, who describes his style as “Asian brasserie,” which conveys tremendous license for the young chef to strut his stuff. Lunches include an ingenious china variation on the Japanese bento box. The Four Set allows you

to make your own flexible choices of appetizer, salad, main course, and dessert, for just $24CDN. The sense of design also carries through onto the plate. A pretty appetizer of grilled scallops with enoki mushrooms and edamame (excellent with Sauvignon Blanc) arrived on a matte black square dish. Choices yielded no shortage of deliciousness, including perfectly seared albacore tuna tataki with soy-ginger vinaigrette and pickled ginger, kimchi-spiced braised short rib—just hot enough to be interesting—and an exquisite silken ganache chocolate tart. Service was very attentive, not overly formal, and pleasantly friendly. For the uninitiated, chopsticks here come with a knife and fork—a good thing, since the plastic sticks are Japanese-style and can be tricky for even the most determined of noodle hunters. Lunch is the most underrated dining experience, and Oru’s is no exception. Dinner offerings, however, cover a wider selection with slightly larger portions and featuring local, seasonal ingredients. Favorites range from seared Qualicum Bay scallops to a Vietnamese pho with Pemberton beef brisket and bahn mi. Also of note, noodles and tofu are all made

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Photos by Andrei federov

 Housemade

in house, which pushes the quality envelope considerably. Pan Asian cuisine without definition or regional focus can be a precarious undertaking. However, Wong cooks with confidence and obviously thrives by extemporizing on classic dishes. Oru’s style excels on several levels, from the obvious thought behind the sheer variety of tastes to their detail-driven execution. —Tim Pawsey

The EdGe

are made from Ossabaw pigs raised on the chef’s nearby farm. Sweet and clean tasting, the selection was enhanced with white truffle oil, olives, and an aged balsamic to provide a tangy counterpoint. The sesame-ginger scallops showed Tuson’s adventurous side, pairing them with salsa and guacamole. Main dishes balance meat, fish, and pastas. A luscious slow-roasted pork chop rests atop a velvety cumin-corn sauce, while halibut sits on a bed of Israeli couscous, garden

peas, and an intense lemon sauce. Dessert continues the gustatory pleasures with crisp apple spring rolls paired with apple jelly and tart apple syrup, and a flourless chocolate brownie with root beer ice cream. The wine and craft beer list is minimal but thoughtfully chosen by partner Gemma Claridge. The affordable price points—the chef’s choice five-course tasting menu is a deal at $50CDN—easily makes The EdGe a regular hangout.

Cured Meats The housecured salumi, capicollo, and a three-yearaged prosciutto are made from Ossabaw pigs raised on the chef ’s nearby farm

—Shelora Sheldan

6688 E. Sooke Rd., Sooke, B.C. 778-425-3343 www.edgerestaurant.ca

dward Tuson, the chef who famously coaxed exotic flavors from begonia tubers and other wild edibles at Sooke Harbour House, is now delighting palates with elevated fare at his new post. While he could have set his sights on an urban locale, Tuson stayed in his Sooke neighborhood, refashioning a former down-on-itsluck fry shack into a cozy 25-seat eatery. The vibe is laid-back, with an open kitchen, tables set around banquettes with warm colors, and a location on the edge, literally, of the road. Lunch is a selection of the hits: sandwiches, burgers and fries, fish and pasta dishes, but with a seasonal bent, and everything made in-house. The hugely popular crispy squid finds wide slices of tender panko-crusted squid meat sitting atop spicy coleslaw with a sweet jalapeño-spiced dipping sauce. At the dinner hour, Tuson’s culinary talents really come to life. The house-cured salumi, capicollo, and a three-year-aged prosciutto

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Northwest Palate | September/October 2010

BONNEVI LLE Hot Springs & Spa

or as long as humans have sought comfort and relief from aches and pains, geothermal hot springs have been a treasured resource. Emanating from deep within the earth and emerging naturally at only a few select places, geothermal hot springs are perennially popular destinations. The Pacific Northwest is home to many kinds of hot springs, but there are few true hot spring resorts. One of the regionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s finest is Bonneville Hot Springs & Spa near Stevenson, Washington. Here, mineral-rich waters are harnessed and channeled to provide both therapeutic benefits for guests and low environmental impact heating and cooling of the resort itself. Mineral waters are defined as having at least 250 parts per million total dissolved solids. At Bonneville Hot Springs the waters contain nearly twice that standard, and are rich in sulfur, silica, calcium, iron, potassium, magnesium, sodium, and carbonate. These solids come from dissolved minerals gathered below

the earthâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s surface, and since mankindâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s beginnings have been considered to be a source of healing. The minerals in the Bonneville Hot Springs are considered beneficial for assisting (along with other treatments) in the relief of joint and muscle pain, osteoporosis, rheumatisms and the treatment of skin conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, acne and hives. It is also indicated simply for relaxationâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;there is nothing much more soothing than soaking in a naturally hot mineral bath. Guests can enjoy the mineral waters in the privacy of their rooms by booking a hot tub room or suite. Or, they can experience the fun of an expansive mineral waters swimming pool. And for the ultimate, they can take advantage of multiple gender-specific spa services in the 12,000-square-foot spa facility. They can choose from facials, pedicures, manicures, as well as comprehensive Thermal Mineral Bath & Wrap, Thalasso Bath & Wrap, and Herbal Mineral Bath & Wrap spa packages, to name a few. To optimize the preventative and therapeutic properties offered at Bonneville Hot Springs, different

massages are recommended to help alleviate common ailmentsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;like the Abhyanda massage, which means literally â&#x20AC;&#x153;oil massage,â&#x20AC;? a rhythmic and deeply relaxing massage that rejuvenates by clearing stagnant energy and restoring the flow of â&#x20AC;&#x153;prana,â&#x20AC;? the life force that stimulates your bodyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s vital energy; the Cranio-Sacral therapy, a gentle hands-on technique that is effective in alleviating headaches, neck and back pain, TMJ dysfunction, chronic fatigue, central nervous system disorders and more; the Reiki, a wonderful technique used for relaxation and stress reduction resulting in an overall sense of peace and calm; or the Aroma Stone therapy, a blissful head to toe massage with warm stones and essential oils to take out those stress knots, to name a few. At Bonneville Hot Springs the true healing power of Mother Earth can be experienced like nowhere elseâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;and in the heart of one of North Americaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most beautiful settings, the Columbia Gorge. Some of the same vast geologic forces that created this spectacular land are still at work here, but tamed in a more generous and healthful way.

Escape to the only destination resort spa in Americaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Most Unique Wine Region, located in the scenic Columbia River Gorge.This casual and elegant resort is your destination for romantic luxury, impeccable service, and soothing relaxation. Soothe your senses and renew your spirit with a relaxing soak in natural mineral hot spring water famed for its power to restore and rejuvenate. Pamper yourself in our full-service spa with a Bonneville Bridge of the Gods Hot Springs hot stone massage, herbal body wrap, hydrating facial or any of over 40 massages and body Hood River treatments. Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area Portland â&#x20AC;˘â&#x20AC;˘ Award-winning winelist, list,romantic romanticdining dining Award-winning wine andregional specialties in the PaciďŹ c Crest Dining Room.

â&#x20AC;˘ Mineral spring-ďŹ lled indoor and outdoor jetted â&#x20AC;˘ soaking pools and pools dry sauna. jetted soaking and dry sauna

â&#x20AC;˘â&#x20AC;˘ 78 guest rooms roomsand andsuites suitesâ&#x20AC;&#x201C; â&#x20AC;&#x201C;allallwith withprivate private fresh 78 guest fresh air air balconies and many with spring-ďŹ lled private hot tubs.

â&#x20AC;˘ 25â&#x20AC;˘meter indoor lap pool ďŹ lled with natural mineral hot spring water..

mineral hot spring water.

A Gorge-ous Spa Getaway Less Than An Hour From Portland 866-710-2902 www.bonnevilleresort.com 866-459-1678 â&#x20AC;˘ www.bonnevilleresort.com Visit our web site for monthly resort and spa special offers 16

September/October 2010 | Northwest Palate

Tourism support is funded through the hotel/motel funds provided by the City of North Bonneville

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SEPTEMBER

datebook

Jellyfish Jubilee

Explore the delicious depths of Northwest cuisine and fine wines at this festive event benefiting the aquarium’s exhibits and education programs. Bid on items in the silent auction while enjoying live entertainment, animal encounters, interpretive dives, and tours of exhibits, including the recently opened Swampland, which spotlights the world’s imperiled wetlands. Tickets are $100. For more information visit www.aquarium.org.

Photos provided by The Oregon Coast aquarium

Oregon Coast Aquarium, Newport, OR.

OREGON SEPTEMBER 3 & 4 The Little Woody, Des Chutes Historical Museum, Bend, OR. Knock on wood

for good weather this Labor Day weekend as Central Oregon breweries come together to offer tastes of the craft beers aged in wine barrels, whiskey barrels, and oaken casks. Featured breweries include Ninkasi, Block 15, Boneyard, Deschutes, Cascade Lakes, Silver Moon, 10 Barrel, Three Creeks, and McMenamins. Also enjoy bourbon tasting from regional distilleries, local food vendors, and live music. Cost is $6. For more information visit www.thelittlewoody.com.

SEPTEMBER 4-6 Explore, Tour & Taste, various wineries, Chehalem Mountains and Ribbon Ridge AVA, OR. Sample great wines and meet the

people behind them as winemakers and growers in this vinicultural region host special pre-harvest winery and vineyard open houses, including rare opportunities to visit wineries rarely open to the public. For more information visit www.chehalemmountains.org.

SEPTEMBER 10-12 Muddy Boot Organic Festival, St. Philip Neri Church, Portland, OR. Agri-advocates

Curt Ellis and Ian Cheney, makers of the films King Corn, Big River, and Truck Farms, give the keynote address on

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Friday night. On Saturday and Sunday, learn how to live more sustainably by visiting exhibitors’ booths while enjoying live music, organic foods and beverages, educational workshops, and kids’ activities. Tickets to the keynote address are $15 for students, $20 for general admission in advance, and $25 at the door. Admission to the festival is $5. For more information visit www.muddyboot.org.

SEPTEMBER 10-12 Umpqua Valley Wine, Art & Music Festival, Umpqua Community College, Roseburg, OR.

The festival kicks off on Friday night with a charity auction for Umpqua Community College students and dinner prepared by Brix 527. Weekend activities include a bicycle tour through area vineyards, wine and art vendors, live music from headliner Curtis Salgado, and the Wiener Dog Nationals. Food is provided by Oakwood Catering, Rolling Thunder BBQ, Anthony’s Italian Café, and others. For more information visit www.uvwineartandmusic.com.

SEPTEMBER 11 Mid-Valley Brewfest, High Street Brewery & Café, Eugene, OR. Breweries from the Eugene area, southern I-5 corridor, and

lower Willamette Valley come together for a chilled-out day of beer tasting, plus food and music. For more information visit www.mcmenamins.com/1486mcmenamins-brewfests-mid-valley.

SEPTEMBER 11 & 12 Oregon Grape Stomp Championship and Harvest Celebration, Willamette Valley Vineyards, Turner, OR. An

Oregon wine country tradition, this purple-feet extravaganza kicks off the 2010 wine grape harvest in style. Twoperson teams (a stomper and a swabber) battle it out to see who can produce the most juice using feet alone. The winning team garners a trip for two to the World Grape Stomping Championship in Santa Rosa, CA. Admission is $5 and includes a Riedel wineglass and tasting; additional $10 per team, per heat, to stomp grapes. Call 800-344-9463 to make reservations or visit www.willamettevalleyvineyards. com for more information.

SEPTEMBER 18 “Steamers and Crab” Golf Tournament, The Resort at the Mountain, Welches, OR.

Foursomes compete for the best twoscores-of-the-team on the historic 27-hole golf course, followed by a feast of fresh seafood and beers from Mt. Hood Brewing Co. Cost is $99 per person, $40 for meal only. Participants can book a room for just $89 more. For more information call 503622-2216 or visit www.theresortcourses. com/events.php.

Northwest Palate | September/October 2010

NOVEMBER 12 & 13 ¡Salud! The Oregon Pinot Noir Auction, various locations, OR. Now

SEPTEMBER 18 & 19 Commercial Fishermen’s Festival, Tongue Point, Astoria, OR.

Learn how local fishermen are taking steps to ensure a renewable source of seafood for the future. Fun competitions include crab pot stacking, knot tying, fish filleting, and oyster shucking. Watch a seafood cooking demonstration by Graham Kerr of Galloping Gourmet fame, and meet the stars of the Deadliest Catch, while enjoying live entertainment, delicious bites, artisan crafts, and kids’ activities. For more information visit www.commercialfishermensfestival.com.

in its 19th year, this annual event has raised more than $6 million to provide healthcare for seasonal vineyard workers and their families. And for Pinotphiles, it provides the opportunity to bid on exclusive Pinot Noirs at Friday’s Big Board Auction held at Domaine Drouhin Oregon. The black-tie dinner on Saturday at the Governor Hotel features an auction of rare wines, special winemaker dinners, and wine trips. Tickets are $395 for both events. For more information visit www.saludauction.org.

SEPTEMBER 16-19 Mt. Angel Oktoberfest, Mt. Angel, OR.

WASHINGTON

This quaint community, about 40 miles south of Portland, was settled by German pioneers in the 1800s and provides the setting for Oregon’s oldest Oktoberfest. The festival features more than 50 food booths, including sausages from Mt. Angel Sausage Company and Zenner’s Quality Sausage & Smoked Meats, arts and crafts, and Weingarten, Alpinegarten, and Biergarten featuring Widmer’s seasonal autumn brew, Okto, German beers, and Northwestern wines. For more information visit www.oktoberfest.org or call 503-845-9440.

SEPTEMBER 19 Wild About Game,The Resort at the Mountain, Welches, OR. Now

in its 10th year, this daylong event celebrates the game meats supplied by local family farms and ranches. See some of the Northwest’s hottest chefs compete in the cook-off, plus partake of celebrity cookbook signings, wine and food tastings, and chef demonstrations. A gourmet dinner buffet of buffalo, elk, quail, pheasant, and other dishes rounds out the day. Cost is $75. For more information call 800-733-0800 or visit www.nickyusa.com.

SEPTEMBER 24-26 Pacific Northwest Brew Cup, Astoria Public Square, Astoria, OR.

More than 30 craft microbrews and root beers are on tap, plus food vendors, live music, and kids’ activities. Cost is $7, tasting fees are extra, with proceeds benefiting Clatsop Community Action Regional Food Bank. For more information visit www. facebook.com/pages/ Pacific-Northwest-Brew-Cup.

SEPTEMBER 25 & 26 Oregon Flock and Fiber Festival, Clackamas County Fairgrounds, Canby, OR. This family-oriented

event celebrates all things sheep. Take your spinning to an entirely new level at one of festival’s many fiber workshops. Or just kick back and enjoy the handcrafted gifts, photo contests, heritage breed displays, herd dog demonstrations, and lamb cook-off. For more information visit www.flockandfiberfestival.com.

SEPTEMBER 27DECEMBER 11 Wine Tasting Courses, Chemeketa Community College, Salem, OR. Learn more about wine in two classes: “Wine Appreciation” covers grape varieties, wine types, sensory distinctions, food and wine combinations, and the sensory evaluation of wine. The second class focuses specifically on wines of the Pacific Northwest. Students must be 21 years of age and cost is $216 per class, plus $122 fee. For more information call 503-399-5139.

OCTOBER 10 10-10-10, PureSpace, Portland, OR.

Ten chefs from 10 of the city’s top restaurants will vie for votes in this American Idol meets Iron Chef competition. Proceeds from the charity gala and auction will benefit The Leukemia & Lymphoma Society. For more information visit www.101010-portland.org.

OCTOBER 23 & 24 Great American Distillers Festival, Tiffany Center Emerald Ballroom, Portland, OR. Craft distillers

from near and far gather to offer tastes of their vodkas, rums, gins, whiskies, brandies, and other handcrafted spirits. Bartenders will compete in the Mixmaster Mixology Contest. Admission is $10 for a one-day pass with three taster tickets, or $16 for a two-day pass with six taster tickets. For more information visit www.distillersfestival.com.

September/October 2010 | Northwest Palate

SEPTEMBER 4 Harvest Party, Silver Lake Winery, Zillah, WA. Enjoy grape stomping, limbo

contests, lunch, vinoritas (wine margaritas), and live music. For more information call 509-829-6235 or visit www.silverlakewinery.com.

SEPTEMBER 4 Outdoor Dinner and a Movie, Two Mountain Winery, Zillah, WA.

Watch the stars on the silver screen while you gaze at the ones in the night sky at this outdoor movie screening and dinner. Cost is $25. For more information visit www.twomountainwinery.com.

SEPTEMBER 10 Farmer Consumer Awareness Day Chef Extravaganza, White Heron Cellars, Quincy, WA. Three chefs

will create a culinary buffet from foods grown within 20 miles of the winery. Take a seat and watch them cook while listening to live music, and then dig into the finished dishes. Cost is $30. For more information visit www.whiteheronwine.com.

SEPTEMBER 10 An Evening of Wine, Seattle Waterfront Marriott, Seattle, WA. Taste from

10 top Washington wineries while meeting the winemakers behind the bottles. Enjoy a three-course dinner, play the “Name That Wine” tasting game, and bid in the silent auction. Tickets start at $175, with proceeds benefiting the Pacific Northwest Diabetes Research Institute. For more information call 206-726-1200 or visit www.pnri.org/eveningofwine.

SEPTEMBER 10-12 Vancouver Sausage Fest, St. Joseph School and Parish Grounds, Vancouver, WA.

Since 1972, this fest has been an annual community event and features carnival rides, arts and crafts, food booths, plenty of sausage, a beer garden, and live entertainment. General admission is $1, with proceeds benefiting the school. For more information visit www.stjoevanschool.org.

SEPTEMBER 11 Grape Stomp, Chateau Champoux, Prosser, WA. Three-

person teams of stompers compete for trophies and prizes for longest distance traveled and best stomping technique. Cost is $45, $35 for nonstompers, and includes a T-shirt, barbecue lunch, and wine tasting. For more information visit www.chateauchampoux.com.

SEPTEMBER 11 & 12 Skewered Apple BBQ Championship, Yakima, WA.

To help celebrate its 50th anniversary, and because apple juice is such an important part of many barbecue sauce recipes, Tree Top is sponsoring one of the largest BBQ championships in the western United States. Held in Yakima’s historic Front Street District, the event will feature live music, food booths with tasting and cooking demos, and of course, a BBQ competition with $35,000 in total prize money up for grabs. Tickets are $12, $20 for the weekend. Proceeds benefit the Yakima Valley Museum. For more information visit www.skeweredapple.com.

SEPTEMBER 11 & 12 Quincy Valley Hot Air Balloon & Wine Festival, Twin Firs Turf, Quincy, WA. A 200-acre sod farm is the site of hot air balloon launches on Saturday and Sunday mornings. Saturday evening features the illuminated, tethered balloons floating above the grounds to provide a brilliant backdrop for sampling wines by Wenatcheearea wineries such as Stemilt Creek, Milbrandt, and Bella Terrazza, plus beer by Iron Horse Brewery in nearby Ellensburg. Admission is $20 per carload of up to six people. For more information call 509-787-3795 or visit www.partiesonthegreen.com.

SEPTEMBER 12 BLEND, Bell Harbor Conference Center, Seattle, WA. More than 40 wine

producers from Washington, Sonoma County, and Portugal pour their best blends paired with gourmet cuisine from top Northwest hotels and inns, including Friday Harbor House, The Inn at Langley, Salish Lodge & Spa, and others. Attendees can also take part in blending seminars, or enter to win getaways to the featured hotels. Cost is $59, with proceeds benefiting the Washington Wine Industry Foundation. For more information visit www.columbiablend.com.

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SEPTEMBER 18 Taste of the Harvest, Wenatchee, WA. Area

wineries and restaurants offer tastes at this family-friendly festival. Activities include a cooking competition, Harvest Market with locally grown produce and artisan crafts, a farm equipment show, live music, and more. For more information visit www.wendowntown.org.

SEPTEMBER 24-26 Fremont Oktoberfest, Seattle, WA. Run

in the Brew HA-HA 5K, enter the Texas Chainsaw Pumpkin Carving Contest, or compete in the Street Scramble scavenger hunt. Wornout participants can recuperate at one of the three beer gardens with more than 80 microbrews, or refuel at the Oktoberfest Village featuring traditional German food booths, a free entertainment stage, and a kidsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; area with â&#x20AC;&#x153;Zucchini 500â&#x20AC;? races, root beer tasting, and Oktoberfest themed arts and crafts. For a complete schedule of events, ticket prices, and more information visit www.fremontoktoberfest.com.

SEPTEMBER 25 Harvest Jubilee & Farm Tour, Camano Island and Stanwood, WA.

Take the family on a self-guided tour of more than a dozen farms in the scenic Stillaguamish Valley

(which means â&#x20AC;&#x153;peaceful watersâ&#x20AC;? in Native American), and connect with the farmers who make our tables abundant with locally grown foods and fibers. Visit the Festival Hub in downtown Stanwood, where barbecue, arts and crafts, childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s activities, and a barn dance provide entertainment all day and into the night. Attendance is free. For more information and tour maps visit www.harvestjubilee.org or call 360-629-0562.

SEPTEMBER 25 & 26 Catch the Crush, Oakwood Cellars, Benton City, WA. In

celebration of their 25th grape harvest, the winery will host a grape stomp, live jazz music, and food catered by Atomic Ale Brewpub & Eatery. For more information call 509-588-5332 or visit www. oakwoodcellars.com/catch_the_ crush.html.

OCTOBER 2 & 3 Northwest Tea Festival, Seattle Center, Seattle, WA. This third annual event

will be steeped in opportunities to learn more about and sample some of the best teas from all over the world. Local tea vendors will offer samples at Tea Tasting Booths, while tea experts will share their knowledge at classes ranging from

region-specific primers to cultural traditions and practices surrounding tea service. Entry to the festival is free, with a suggested donation of $5 that includes a free ceramic tasting teacup and gift bag. Select lectures and tastings are extra. For more information visit www.nwteafestival.com.

OCTOBER 2-31 Harvest Festival and Pumpkin Patch, Bi-Zi Farms, Vancouver, WA.

Each Friday through Sunday in October, visitors can attempt to navigate their way though the sixacre corn maze. Scope out the perfect jack-o-lantern in the pumpkin patchâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;pumpkins can be brought home for carving, or sent flying with the farmâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pumpkin launcher! Plus, hayrides, live bluegrass music, and more. Admission is $8. For more information visit www.bizifarms.com.

runners, walkers, children, and dogs are all invited to traverse through the beautiful estate vineyards. For more information call 509-786-7401 or visit www.airfieldwines.com.

OCTOBER 9 Chestnut Festival, Allen Creek Farm, Ridgefield, WA. In celebration of

National Chestnut Week, visitors are invited to the farm, where they can munch on hot roasted chestnuts and sip chestnut bisque while learning how chestnuts are harvested and processed, or weaving their way through the garden maze. For more information visit www.chestnutsonline.com/ nationalchestnutweek.htm.

OCTOBER 9 5K Vineyard Fun Run & Grape Stomp, Airfield Estates, Prosser, WA. Feel

the grapes squish between your toes while helping the winery stomp roughly 10,000 pounds of grapes for their next RosĂŠ. Or travel by foot as

OCTOBER 9 & 10 Celebration of Beer Weekend, Skamania Lodge, Stevenson, WA.

Enter Saturday morningâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Beer Cup Challenge and play the nine-hole golf tournament, followed by an afternoon of microbrew tasting at Cheers for Beers on the lodgeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s lawn. Wake-up the next day to the â&#x20AC;&#x153;Kegs and Eggsâ&#x20AC;? breakfast. For more information visit www.skamania.com.

Kg em[` egj]&&&

oc\i epno bm`\o rdi`) There is more than one hill in the Dundee Hills and we think youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll agree that the grass is a little greener on our side. We oďŹ&#x20AC;er worldclass wines and genuine hospitality in a stunning setting. Come for a relaxing day or escape to one of our guest houses for the weekend. Open daily from 11am-5pm !

16161 NE McDougall Road Dayton, Oregon 97114 503.864.3404 !

www.stollervineyards.com Mention this ad for a complimentary tasting.

Stoller_half page NWP Final.indd 1 www.nwpalate.com

6/25/10 11:41:47 AM Northwest Palate | September/October 2010 19

OCTOBER 17-28 Seattle Restaurant Week, Seattle, WA.

Last year more than 100 restaurants offered three-course dinners for $25, and three-course lunches for $15. For a complete list of this year’s participating restaurants visit www.seattlerestaurantweek.com.

OCTOBER 29-31 Chef ’s Weekend with Ethan Stowell, Cave B Inn at SageCliffe, Quincy, WA. Spend a

fun and instructive food and wine weekend at the spectacular Cave B Inn and Winery at SageCliffe. Learn cooking secrets working side-byside with renowned Seattle chef and restaurateur Ethan Stowell, in concert with Tendril Vineyard Restaurant’s executive chef Joe Ritchie and Cave B Winery’s winemaker Freddy Arredondo, during this intensive three-day weekend program that benefits Food Lifeline and Second Harvest Inland Northwest. Registration includes three days and two nights’ accommodations at Cave B, plus all meals and wine pairings. To register call 888-785-2283 or visit www. sagecliffe.com/Events_Chefs_ wknds.html.

NOVEMBER 13 Gusto!, Edward D. Hansen Conference Center at Comcast Arena, Everett, WA. Join the Everett Community College Foundation for an evening of Northwest wines, select microbrews, and fine restaurants. Tickets are $50, with proceeds benefiting student scholarships and programs. For more information visit www.everettcc.edu/gusto.

B.C. SEPTEMBER 3-5 Mount Washington Alpine Food Festival, Alpine Resort, Mt. Washington, B.C. Meet festival chefs, including event emcee and Food Network Canada star Anthony Sedlack, at the Friday night cocktail reception. Attend cooking classes and the gala dinner on Saturday; Sunday’s Alpine Marketplace is the place to stock up on goods from the Comox Valley’s top producers. Weekend packages start at $327CDN per person based on double occupancy. For more information visit www.mountwashington.ca.

SEPTEMBER 4 Winestock Music & Wine Festival, Morning Bay Vineyard & Estate Winery, Pender Island, B.C. Camp out at the oceanfront winery and enjoy

great indie music by headliner (and Juno Award nominee) Carolyn Mark, and others, plus great food and wine. Tickets are $35CDN. For more information visit www.morningbay.ca.

SEPTEMBER 11 Tailgate Party, The Commons at Naramata Centre, Naramata, B.C. Pickup trucks and popping corks will be in abundance as Naramata Bench wineries gather at this lakeside event with live music and great food. Tickets are $85CDN. For reservations call 800-663-1900 or visit www.naramatabench.com.

SEPTEMBER 17-19 EAT! Fraser Valley, Tradex Exhibition Centre, Abbotsford, B.C. Taste and discover new flavors from local restaurants, wineries, and food and beverage artisans at this offshoot of the popular Vancouver-based culinary festival. Appearing on the Celebrity Cooking Stage will be chefs (and Food Network Canada show hosts) Rob Feenie and Lynn Crawford. Other areas of interest include the Wellness Pavilion, Bite

of the Valley, Grapes and Hops Presentation Stage, Dairy Farmers of Canada cheese seminars, and the Food for Thought Film Festival. General admission is $12CDN for adults, $6CDN for children ages 7–14. For more information visit www.eat-fraservalley.com.

SEPTEMBER 19 Passions, Dr. Peter Centre, Vancouver, B.C. An evening of fun, live and

silent auctions, and food from the city’s top restaurants, with proceeds benefiting the Dr. Peter AIDS Foundation. Tickets are $200CDN. Visit www.drpeter.org.

SEPTEMBER 25, OCTOBER 3 & 16 “Fall Favourites” Cooking Workshops, Wine & Thyme, Westbank, B.C. These classes will take advantage of the Okanagan Valley’s seasonal fruits and vegetables in creating family meals and desserts perfect for the Thanksgiving table. Cost is $85CDN. For more information call 250-768-7708 or visit www.wineandthyme.com.

OCTOBER 1-8 Winemaker’s Dinners, Sumac Ridge Estate Winery, Summerland, B.C.

As part of the Okanagan Fall Wine Festival, the winery will host a series of wine dinners, each featuring a

SEPTEMBER 19 Feast of Fields, Parry Bay Sheep Farm, Metchosin, B.C. This gourmet harvest festival featuring local chefs, vintners, brewers, farmers, and food artisans from across the province will be held on the sustainable sheep, lamb, and wheat farm located on Vancouver Island. Between bites, bid on silent auction items from local food, wine, and travel companies. Cost is $85CDN, $15CDN for children ages 7–12, with proceeds benefiting FarmFolk/ CityFolk. For more information visit www.feastoffields.com.

September/October 2010 | Northwest Palate

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different theme—from blindfolded dining and sparkling wines, to library releases and bold reds— centered around five-course meals prepared by winery chef Ryan Fuller. Costs range from $85–$95CDN. For more information visit www.sumacridge.com.

OCTOBER 3 Festival of the Grape, Oliver Community Park, Oliver, B.C. More than 30 wineries

and food vendors from the South Okanagan Valley, including artisan cheeses from Jerseyland Organics in Grand Forks, B.C., will supply palatepleasing nourishment to fuel a funfilled day of grape stomping and live entertainment. Cost is $19CDN in advance, $22CDN at the gate; kids are free. For more information call 866-498-6321 or visit www.festivalofthegrape.ca.

OCTOBER 9 Fort Langley Cranberry Festival, Fort Langley, B.C. One of the region’s major

commercial crops, cranberries will be celebrated during a day of live music, entertainment, a pancake breakfast, food vendors, and canoe regatta on the Bedford Channel. Admission is free. For more information visit www.cranberryfest.ca.

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OCTOBER 16 & 17 Apple Festival, UBC Botanical Garden, Vancouver, B.C. More than 60

apple varieties ranging from heritage to new and tried-and-true favorites, will be available for attendees to sample (for a $3CDN tasting fee) and to purchase in bulk. Watch grafting and cider-pressing demonstrations by the B.C. Fruit Testers Association, among other family-friendly activities. Admission is $2CDN; free for children 18 and under. For more information call 604-822-4529 or visit www. ubcbotanicalgarden.org/events/ applefest.

OCTOBER 16-18 Art of the Cocktail, various locations, Victoria, B.C. Cocktailians,

mixologists, professional and amateur bartenders alike will shake up the weekend with their skills at blending spirits. Afternoon workshops will address subjects ranging from pairing cocktails with food, to Italian cocktails, and making your own tinctures and extracts. Don’t miss the Pacific Northwest Bartender Competition on Sunday night, and Monday night’s “Dinner with a Twist” will challenge the Global Brand Ambassador to create the perfect cocktail pairing for each course prepared by some of Victoria’s top chefs. Ticket prices range from

$25CDN to $200CDN. For more information visit www.artofthecocktail.ca.

OCTOBER 8-10 Trailing of the Sheep Festival, various locations, Hailey/Ketchum/Sun Valley, ID.

NOVEMBER 11-14 Cornucopia, various locations, Whistler, B.C. One of the Northwest’s premier wine and food events, Cornucopia offers a sumptuous buffet of tasting events, seminars, workshops, and parties— from winemaker dinners at Whistler’s destination restaurants, to the always spectacular Crush Gala Grand Tasting. For a complete schedule of events and ticket prices visit www.whistlercornucopia.com.

IDAHO SEPTEMBER 24-26 Sun Valley Harvest Festival, various locations, Sun Valley, ID.

Autumn in Sun Valley provides lovely weather for enjoying the abundant local harvest. This year’s festival will focus on sustainably produced foods, wines, and beers, with cooking demonstrations by visiting regional chefs, tastings, a culinary trade show, multi-course dinners nightly, and a beer garden providing added interest. For more information visit www. sunvalleyharvestfestival.com.

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Ranchers in the Wood River Valley have a long tradition of bringing home their sheep from the highlands each fall. This spectacle is commemorated each year with three days of multicultural fun in the towns of Ketchum, Sun Valley, and Hailey. Expect to see lots of Basque dancers, Peruvian musicians, sheep dog trials, woolen workshops, creative lamb dishes, and a parade that features thousands of sheep being herded down Main Street in Ketchum. Visit www.trailingofthesheep.org.

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Northwest Palate | September/October 2010

boss hog Vancouver, B.C. chef Robert Belcham talks about his passion for locally raised pork and one of his favorite ways to prepare it

Photo Chris Mason Stearns

by Peter szymczak

September/October 2010 | Northwest Palate

in the kitchen

very one of my cooks knows how to break down a pig,” says Robert Belcham. It’s an understandable source of pride, coming from one of the Northwest’s leading practitioners of nose-to-tail cuisine. The menus at his two highly acclaimed restaurants, Refuel and Campagnolo, in Vancouver, B.C., feature pork in a myriad of ways. There are nibblesome ribs, richly flavored pork ragùs, and “The Cure” (www.justcureit.ca), his line of handcrafted charcuterie, including fennel pollen-spiced salami, spicy soppressata, bacon, ham, and other cured meats. If you get up the gumption to ask—don’t let his burly physique and panoply of tattoos dissuade you, the native Canadian couldn’t be friendlier or more approachable—he’ll even prepare an entire pig’s head for a table of adventurous eaters. (His favorite part? “The meat from behind the ears.”) It’s interesting to note that this master of carnivorous cuisine got his start at Rebar, one of Canada’s most celebrated vegetarian restaurants. “For me, nothing tasted better than eating a carrot washed off with the garden hose in my garden as a kid,” he recalls. His fondness for the flavor potential of plants hasn’t diminished: to this day, his menus feature an abundance of vegetarianfriendly dishes. Local farms provide the link between plant and animal kingdoms in Belcham’s culinary world. Whether flora or fauna, Belcham strives to source the best quality products he can; and he estimates that “75 percent of the menu, we can say exactly where it came from.” It’s the way he learned to cook while spending a year as chef de partie at The French Laundry, Thomas Keller’s famous restaurant in Napa, California. In 2002, Belcham returned to Canada, rising to the position of chef de cuisine under Robert Clark, executive chef at Vancouver’s C Restaurant. “When I cooked with Rob, he would use the entire salmon. We wouldn’t throw anything away. We’d use the skin to make crackers, with bones we’d make salmon bone salt. We’d use the heads and make broth.” Belcham applies this “waste not” cooking principle to a pig’s head in his recipe for Crispy Pork Cheek Terrine (aka Scrapple). As he pan-fries a slice of the terrine in the open kitchen at Refuel, we chat about the importance of knowing where food comes from, and why the pigs raised by Sloping Hill Farm have become his pork of choice.

“Any way you can get people to realize what they’re eating and embrace it, I think it’s a good thing.”

Have you always been into preserving? It’s ingrained in me because my grandfather was a rancher and a farmer. I remember going down to my grandmother’s cellar and seeing jar after jar after jar of preserved everything you can imagine. I remember my grandfather making bacon in the fall. My father’s side is all ranchers, and they did it for survival. They didn’t do it because it tasted great; they did it because they had to. So it was never a question of preserving the best cherries. It was, “We’re going to preserve these cherries so we have something to eat

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in January.” And that’s just the way it was. That’s how my father was. He loves great food, but it’s not the same for him as it is for me, because I can pick and choose. He canned the peaches that were on his tree in his yard, and I can buy them from someone else. I was born in Edmonton and raised in Alberta. My whole family was from interior B.C. My great-grandfather started a ranch in British Columbia at the turn of the century, and so the Belcham family has long roots in B.C. My mother’s side of the family is all prairie farmers. My grandmother came across the country in a covered wagon.

When did you start making charcuterie? At C Restaurant, Rob’s mandate was to find the best products across the board. We found the best fish, the best vegetables, and I like to do a lot of pork. But we had to use factory-raised pork because it was the only thing available— until I found Sloping Hill pig farm. It’s a small operation doing heritage pork ethically and humanely. I tried some of their pork and started buying a pig a month. So that’s when I started to make bacon, ham, sausages for brunch, stuff like that. Whole animal butchery is

just fantastic for restaurants and for cooks. It’s incredibly good economically; you attract good people, because they want to learn how to do it; and you support the local economy of small artisanal farmers. Those are the three big reasons why we do it.

Many of the items on your menu list the farm of origin. Why? Any way you can get people to realize what they’re eating and embrace it, I think it’s a good thing. We have such a huge disconnect between the farm and the table nowadays that people have no clue where the 

Northwest Palate | September/October 2010

“Chefs especially should visit slaughterhouses. They need to see exactly how their meat gets to them, from a live animal rooting around on the ground to a hanging carcass.”

Top left: The pig’s head is cured and then braised for 12 hours until the meat falls off the bones. PHOTO BY KATHLEEN BAUER / Bottom left: A chunk of the finished terrine is ready for slicing and frying. PHOTO BY PETER SZYMCZAK / right: In the kitchen of Refuel, chef Robert Belcham prepares a plate of Crispy Pork Cheek Terrine, served with a sunny side up egg and salsa verde. PHOTO BY PETER SZYMCZAK

continued from 23 food comes from. And because of that disconnect these massive farms have been able to get bigger and bigger and do worse and worse things every year. It’s totally destroying our culture, and also our infrastructure and our heritage. Both the United States and Canada were started because people were trying to go across the country to get farmland, to have a farm and prosper. The people who started those farms had that real sense of wanting to take care of their families and themselves, as opposed to relying on a boss or the government to help them along.

Is that too much information for the average diner? There’s definitely a section of society who wants it. There’s a definite trend in wanting to know where food comes from. It’s not the whole population, but there’s a segment of it that cares about the environment, about where

their food comes from, about what will be left for their children and their children’s children. There are lots of altruistic reasons to care about those things, but for me it’s really simple. As a chef, it’s about the flavor, the taste. If you can always relate it back to how much better it tastes, then it’s very easy for everybody to get behind it. There’s always some guy out there and all he’s ever eaten is a Big Mac, and then he tries some well-prepared pork. He’s like “Holy cow, that’s like a thousand times better than the Big Mac. How can I have it all the time?”

What makes the pork from Sloping Hill taste so good? It’s on 35 acres. Dirk Keller and his wife are German; they came to Canada in the late Eighties. Their parents were farmers, but they’re actually graphic designers. They wanted to have a more simple life. They came to Canada on vacation and loved it; they thought it

September/October 2010 | Northwest Palate

was just beautiful. They said it reminded them of their childhood on their parents’ and grandparents’ farms. They found some land and they’ve been doing it ever since. They started with goats, chickens, pigs, vegetables, hay, and stuff like that, narrowing it down to what works for them on that plot of land. I think they’ve been growing the pigs for close to 10 years now. He treats them like his children. He lets them roam freely throughout parts of his land and they feed on wild grubs and herbs. He feeds them many of the vegetables from his own garden. There’s a whole bunch of orchards around, so they eat apples and pears. I was one of the first people to use his pork in the restaurant business. I was taking one pig a month. Now we’re up to eight a month.

Have you witnessed a pig being slaughtered? I’ve taken my cooks to the federally inspected slaughter plant. His [Keller of Sloping Hill

Farm] pigs follow him all over the farm, right to the slaughtering trailer. He leaves beforehand and never sees them again because it’s just too hard for him. His pigs are like his pets, so it’s very difficult. Chefs especially should visit slaughterhouses. They need to see exactly how their meat gets to them, from a live animal rooting around on the ground to a hanging carcass. The cooks and I saw the whole thing from the beginning to end. It changed me; it changed the cooks’ outlook on the food. They were much more caring in how they prepared the food after that. We didn’t have overcooked pieces of meat anymore, I’ll tell you that. It’s like, “Holy shit, that animal died—I’m not gonna waste it by throwing it away!”

So you don’t waste anything? The only thing that gets thrown away from the pig after we break it down is the glands— and that’s the only thing. We use every little bit.

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CRISPY PORK CHEEK TERRINE (AKA SCRAPPLE)

Courtesy of Robert Belcham, Refuel and Campagnolo restaurants, Vancouver, B.C. Makes 2 (or more) terrines

Butcher shops and specialty meat providers throughout the Northwest sell pig’s heads at prices ranging from just over a dollar per pound to $5 per pound, depending on the provenance of the pork. For instance, for about $3.25 per pound, Tails and Trotters (www.tailsandtrotters.com) in Portland, Oregon, sells hazelnut-finished heritage breed pork. As for the arduous task of splitting the head, make sure to ask your butcher to do this when attempting this recipe, which isn’t nearly as daunting as it may seem. Other sources include Windsor Meats (www.windsormeats.com) in Vancouver, B.C. In Seattle, try Rain Shadow Meats (www.rainshadowmeats.com), or buy from these Oregon-based meat suppliers— www.carltonfarms.com or www.nickyusa.com—and have the head shipped. Special equipment • Large roasting pan(s): You may need two. Each should be large enough to fit the pig’s head, cheek side down, in a single layer— approximately 12" wide x 4" deep x 15" long.

• Pâté terrine mold: This recipe will make two terrines, each approximately 3.5" wide x 3.5" deep x 14" long. Use any combination of enameled cast iron, stainless, or nonstick molds, and bread loaf pans also work well. • Fat separator

• Fine mesh sieve Ingredients • 1 pig’s head (weighing 15–20 pounds), split lengthwise, with tongue and brains, rinsed thoroughly • 1 cup kosher salt

• ¾ cup brown sugar

• 1 Tablespoon freshly ground black pepper • 2 bay leaves, crushed

• 3 Tablespoons lard (or butter)

• 2 cups carrots, roughly chopped

• 2 cups yellow onions, roughly chopped • 2 cups celery, roughly chopped • 2 cups white wine

• 1 handful of stems + ¼ cup finely chopped (leaves only) fresh parsley

• 6-8 sprigs + 1 Tablespoon finely chopped thyme • 1 gallon hot water • 1 cup cornmeal

To make the terrine, remove the brain and place in a nonreactive container. Add cold water to cover and a teaspoon of salt. Soak for 8 hours, replacing the water and salt every 2–3 hours. In a bowl, mix the salt, brown sugar, pepper, and bay leaves together until blended. Rub the mixture all over the head and tongue. Put the head into a large container, cover it, and refrigerate for 24 hours. Preheat oven to 190˚F. Rinse the head and tongue under cold water, and discard any juices

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that have collected in the container. In a large roasting pan, melt the lard over medium-high heat, and then add the carrot, onion, and celery. Cook until softened but not browned, about 7 to 8 minutes. Add the white wine and reduce until almost dry. To the vegetables, add the head and tongue, parsley stems, and a few sprigs of thyme. Add hot water, enough to submerge the head one-half to two-thirds of the way up. Cover with parchment paper and then foil. Place into the preheated oven and cook for 12 hours until very tender. Remove from oven and uncover. Leave head in the liquid until cool enough to handle. Remove head and meat from the liquid and place in a large bowl. Strain the braising liquid through a fine mesh sieve into another large bowl. Pour liquid into a fat separator, degrease 8 cups, and pour into a large saucepan. Reduce over high heat by about half. Reduce heat to low, whisk in the cornmeal, and cook uncovered, stirring frequently, until tender, about 25 minutes. While the cornmeal is cooking, pass the brains through a fine mesh sieve and reserve. Pick the meat off the bones, discarding bones, any hard pieces of cartilage (such as the ear canal), glands (located at the back of the jaw), and extraneous skin and fat. Mix in chopped thyme and parsley leaves. When the cornmeal is cooked, take off the heat and stir in the brain. Add the cornmeal mixture to the pork and herbs, and mix well. Pack the mixture tightly into a terrine mold. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight to set. To finish the dish, unmold the terrine and cut it into ½-inch-thick slices. In a cast iron skillet or heavy bottomed pan over high heat, add about a teaspoon of lard or other cooking oil. When very hot, add the slice of terrine. Fry on one side until crispy and golden brown, about 2 minutes. Flip it with a spatula to the other side, and then remove it from the heat to let it warm through. Serve with toast and eggs cooked to your liking, topped with a heaping spoonful of salsa verde. Or try it cold, served with pickles and mustard. Use or freeze within 1 week.

FOODVANCOUVER.COM

your complete Vancouver dining guide

includes ipod guides, reviews and special diet information.

Northwest Palate | September/October 2010

eat play ta

September/October 2010 | Northwest Palate

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aste Starting in the state’s largest wine producing area in the south, through the Cascade Mountains, and pressing westward to a shining city on the bay, come along with us as we tour three of Washington’s tastiest towns—Prosser, in the heart of the state’s prime winegrowing region, the Yakima Valley; Leavenworth, where you can indulge like a Bavarian, yet also commune with nature; and finally, Bellingham, the bayfront community in the north that radiates with historic and artistic adventures. Indian summer is a prime time to experience the Evergreen State. Get out there and taste it! Fisherman at Lummi Island / photo by Rod del Pozo • Kiona Vineyards Winery near Benton City / photo by Sunny Walter • CrÉme BrulÉ in Leavenworth / photo by Julie Rylander

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Northwest Palate | September/October 2010

sky’s

the limit in yakima

The vast open valleys and windswept plains of the Yakima Valley are one of America’s most productive agricultural regions thanks to the wonders of irrigation. Grapes have been among the region’s crops since the 19th century, and some of Washington’s oldest vinifera vines, planted in 1917, are still producing. Today new winery, restaurant, and lodging resources are attracting culinary tourists, with the town of Prosser becoming the de facto culinary destination of the Yakima Valley.

valley By Teri Citterman

photo provided by Prosser Balloon Ralley

About three hours’ drive time from Seattle lies the Yakima Valley. The heart of this fertile winegrowing region is Prosser, a charming town speckled with historic buildings, tree-lined neighborhood streets, and growing clusters of food and wine tasting opportunities.

September/October 2010 | Northwest Palate

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a taste of Prosser

rush in the Yakima Valley is vibrant to the senses. Early in the morning while the air’s still cool, pickers scour the vineyards. Cutting clusters off the vine, they work fast with intensity to beat the heat before the creeping temperatures reach aggressive highs as early as mid-afternoon. At the same time, pilots inflate their hot air balloons in anticipation of the kick off of the Great Prosser Balloon Rally (see Prosser Events on page 33). It’s a spectacular sight—and the centerpiece of the valley’s harvest celebrations. With 12,000 acres of Chardonnay, Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah, Yakima Valley is the largest supplier of grapes to the more than 650 wineries statewide. Three distinct AVAs lie within its boundaries: Rattlesnake Hills, Snipes Mountain, and Red Mountain (see Wine Countries of the Columbia Valley AVA on page 30). One of Yakima Valley’s gems, Desert Wind Winery offers a full wine country experience with Southwestern panache. Overlooking the Yakima River, this architectural jewel houses a tasting room show-

Vintner’s Village

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casing its signature red blend, Ruah, and newly released white blend, Ora, plus a gift shop, restaurant, and four gorgeously appointed rooms. Desert Wind partnered with local chef Frank Magaña of Picazo 7Seventeen to create Mojave by Picazo—Desert Wind’s 20-seat, Southwestern cuisine restaurant. It’s open for lunch Thursday through Saturday, and seating is drop-in causal (although groups of six or more should call ahead). On the last Friday or Saturday of each month, Mojave hosts a supper club with guest chefs cooking in front of a long communal table of diners. Other dining highlights in Prosser include the Spanish-inflected cuisine of Chef Magaña’s flagship restaurant, Picazo 7Seventeen Wine Bar & Restaurant; casual pasta and panini at Tuscany, a Rustic Italian Bistro; and wood oven-fired pizzas paired with wines from The Bunnell Family Cellar at Wine O’Clock Wine Bar in Vintner’s Village.

Vintner’s Village A couple of quick turns just off I-82 at exit 80 lands you at 100 Merlot Drive—the address of Vintner’s Village, a park-like setting with meandering trails connecting 15 wineries and tasting rooms. Developed by the Port of Benton, Vintner’s Village encompasses 22 acres of roads and wineries, and another 10 acres for the Yellow Rose Nursery. An additional 18 acres to the south are under development for tourismrelated businesses, including the Seven Gables House, a national historic building. Upon entering the village, the distinct personality of each winery becomes apparent. You can’t help but notice the building that resembles an airplane hangar—the home of Airfield Estates Winery, makers continued on 32 

Northwest Palate | September/October 2010

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red mountain snipes mountain

walla walla valley

Prosser horse heaven hills

Wine Countries of the columbia valley ava

photo by john marshal

Looking south across a Yakima Valley vineyard toward the Horse Heaven Hills.

September/October 2010 | Northwest Palate

ashington’s vast Columbia Valley AVA is home to over 90 percent of all the wine grapes grown in the state, as well as all but two of the state’s officially designated wine countries, or AVAs. Created in 1995 to encompass the viticulturally distinct region of Washington’s Columbia River drainage, the area’s dry climate, summer heat, and variety of river valleys combine to create an ideal environment for growing many different grape varieties. Eastern Washington’s viticultural advantages were recognized early, with grapes being planted in the region as early as the 1860s. It was in 1917, however, that the earliest vinifera grapes were planted specifically with the goal of making fine wine. These vines, some of which still produce grapes, were planted in what is now the Snipes Mountain AVA, within the larger Yakima Valley AVA. In 1983 Yakima Valley became Washington’s first American Viticultural Area, and today its over 12,000 acres of vineyards produce more than half of the wine made in the state. Three additional AVAs exist within the borders of the

Yakima Valley AVA, recognizing distinctive grape-growing zones within the larger appellation that have proven to produce wines of special character. Often called subappellations, each AVA within the Yakima Valley really is its own unique, stand-alone appellation. The Red Mountain AVA, created in 2001, is home to a little over 700 acres of vines along the south and southeastern slopes of Red Mountain, between Prosser in the west and Richland in the east. The Rattlesnake Hills AVA was established in 2006, with roughly 1,600 acres of vines along the southern slopes of the Rattlesnake Hills southeast of the town of Yakima and north of the Yakima River. One of the newest appellations in Washington, Snipes Mountain, is also home to the state’s oldest vines and is located near the town of Sunnyside, northwest of Prosser. Beyond the Yakima Valley, additional AVAs recognize other special winegrowing regions within the Columbia Valley appellation. The Horse Heaven Hills AVA, just south of the Yakima Valley, has large windswept vineyards running along the southern slopes of the

the Horse Heaven Hills down to the banks of the Columbia River. East of the Tri-Cities and straddling the Washington/ Oregon border, the Walla Walla Valley AVA has become home to over 100 wineries and is increasingly a popular destination for wine touring. North of Yakima Valley is the slimly populated Wahluke Slope AVA, where strong heat and uniform gravelly soils make for intensely flavored and high quality wine grapes. Further north, at the base of the north Cascades, the newly designated Lake Chelan AVA offers different growing conditions from the rest of the Columbia Valley’s appellations, including a somewhat cooler climate for growing early-ripening grapes. Thanks to the huge area of the Columbia Valley appellation, wine tourers have almost unlimited territories to explore— and literally thousands of wines to taste. —Cole Danehower

Visit Wine Yakima Valley at www.yakimavalley.org for maps of the area and more information.

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September/October 2010 | Northwest Palate

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of a variety of single varietals and blends, but perhaps best-known for its fun and sexy wine labels—Flygirl White, Ruby Rose, and Bombshell Red. Nearby is the tasting room of Olsen Estates. The Olsen family has farmed in the Prosser area for more than 100 years and have grown grapes since 1980. In 2006 they opened their first winery, complete with tasting room and kitchen, cozy living room and fireplace for winter visitors, and a beautiful outdoor patio. Olsen Estates’ Syrah, Chardonnay, Petit Verdot, and red and white blends have all earned high tasting scores. Another long-time winegrower also opened a tasting room at the Vintner’s Village, under the name Willow Crest Winery. The Minick family first planted wine grapes in 1982, and now David Minick’s wines, including the award-winning Pinot Gris and red Rhône blend, can be sampled at the Tuscan-inspired tasting room. Turning onto Cabernet Court finds Thurston Wolfe. Unique blends and Portstyle wines are the signature wine of owner/ winemaker Dr. Wade Wolfe (his Ph.D is in grape genetics), one of the pioneers of Washington’s wine industry. Wolfe likes to experiment with unusual varietals and blends, like his “PGV” blend of Pinot Gris and Viognier, and Dr. Wolfe’s Family Red, a blend of Primitivo (a variety Wolfe pioneered in Washington), Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Sirah, and Lemberger. More tasting opportunities await at The Bunnell Family Cellar, which also features its RiverAerie label; Milbrandt Vineyards, the recent recipient of a Double Gold at the San Francisco International Wine Competition for its Late Harvest Riesling; and Gamache Vintners, whose reserve Cabernet Sauvignon from the well-known Champoux Vineyard is perennially popular. On Port Avenue, the Tuscan-styled Winemaker’s Loft houses several small tasting rooms and a shared production facility. This population of boutique wineries includes Michael Florentino Cellars, Tasawik, Coyote Canyon Winery, Plaza Winery, Apex Cellars, Martinez & Martinez Winery, and Maison Bleue Winery. For a diversion from wine, visit the Chukar Cherry Company, producer of a wide array of sweets and treats that exemplify the regional bounty. The company transforms local fruits using a classic drying process into chocolate-covered confections, preserves, and other goodies. Some of the signature bestsellers include dried Bing, Rainier, or Totally Tart Cherries, Puget

Sound Blueberries, and Bing Chocolate Cherries, just to name a few.

Prosser Food and Wine Park Continuing on I-82 toward the eastern edge of town, the Prosser Food and Wine Park may look like a warehouse strip, but inside you’ll find some of the valley’s treasures. You’d be hard-pressed to miss the behemoth red building of anchor winery Hogue Cellars. Brothers Mike and Gary Hogue started the winery in 1982, one year before the Yakima Valley received its AVA designation. Now owned by Vincor International, the winery is one of the state’s largest producers of inexpensively priced classic varietal wines under the Hogue and Genesis labels. Other tasting options offer plenty of variety. Alexandria Nicole Cellars pairs its award-winning Viognier and red blends with a small tapas menu, while Kestrel Vintners offers gourmet cheese to savor alongside sips of its 2006 Cabernet Franc, 2008 Sauvignon Blanc, 2008 Viognier, and the popular Lady in Red blend. Mercer Estates, a collaboration of two well-known Washington winegrowing families—Mercer and Hogue—has received international acclaim for its Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Gris, and Riesling wines. Also, don’t miss Cowan Vineyards or Heaven’s Cave. For a break from wine, stop in at Blue Flame Spirits, the valley’s first craft distillery, and Whitstran Brewing, offering a variety of microbrews and pub grub.

Downtown Prosser Whitstran is not the only brewery in town. Back in the downtown corridor of Prosser you’ll find Horse Heaven Hills Brewery, serving handcrafted beers in its tasting room. Nearby is one of the oldest wineries in the valley and among the pioneers in the state: Hinzerling Winery. Founded in 1976 and best-known for its award-winning dessert and aperitif wines, Hinzerling also offers a place to stay at its Vintner’s Inn, a small bed and breakfast. Snoqualmie Vineyards is another popular Prosser tasting room, thanks to their well-priced and tasty varietals, including their Naked line of organic wines. For a more intimate tasting experience, be sure to visit Chinook Wines, where renowned winemaker Kay Simon greets visitors with a pour of her delightful boutique wines—especially try the Cabernet Franc. While there’s plenty to touch, hear, see, and smell, this is just a taste of the many www.nwpalate.com

Prosser Events SEPTEMBER 24–26

The Great Prosser Balloon Rally & Harvest Festival More than 35 hot air balloons will float over the Yakima Valley during the weekend-long event, featuring sunrise balloon launches from the Prosser Washington Airport, plus a farmers market and other activities in downtown Prosser. The balloons will be anchored and illuminated for Saturday night’s showcase event, Night Glow, creating a breathtaking backdrop for refreshments and musical entertainment. Admission and parking are free; tasting fees vary. For more information visit www.prosserballoonrally.org or call 509-786-3177.

SEPTEMBER 25 & 26 Wine Country Trek Coinciding with the Balloon Rally, this two-day, 120-mile bike ride takes cyclists from Yakima to Prosser through scenic vineyards, hop fields, and orchards. Start time from Yakima on Saturday is 7:30am, returning Sunday at 5pm. Registration is $110 per cyclist, with proceeds going to Kiwanis community and youth service projects. Registration includes overnight camping (indoor and outdoor), baggage transportation, meals, and break stops. For more information visit www.applevalleykiwanis.com or call 509-972-4384.

TRAVEL PLANNER—Prosser places to eat Mojave by Picazo (at Desert Wind Winery) 2258 Wine Country Road 509-786-7277 www.desertwind winery.com Picazo 7Seventeen Wine Bar & Restaurant 717 6th Street 509-786-1116 www.picazo717.com Tuscany, a Rustic Italian Bistro 602 6th Street 509-786-7600 www.eattuscany.com Wine O’Clock Wine Bar 548 Cabernet Court 509-786-2197 www.wineoclock winebar.com

places to taste Chinook Wines 220 Wittkopf Loop 509-786-2725 www.chinookwines.com Desert Wind Winery 2258 Wine Country Road 509-786-7277 www.desertwind winery.com Hinzerling Winery 1520 Sheridan Ave. 509-786-2163 www.hinzerling.com Snoqualmie Vineyards 660 Frontier Road 509-786-5558 www.snoqualmie.com

Vintner’s Village 100 Merlot Drive 509-786-7401 www.prosservintners village.com • Airfield Winery 560 Merlot Drive 509-786-7401 www.airfieldwines.com • Gamache Vintners 505 Cabernet Court 509-786-7800 www.gamache vintners.com • Milbrandt Vineyards 508 Cabernet Court 509-788-0030 www.milbrandt vineyards.com • Olsen Estates 500 Merlot Drive 509-786-7007 www.olsenestates.com • Thurston Wolfe 588 Cabernet Court 509-786-3313 www.thurstonwolfe.com • Willow Crest Winery 590 Merlot Drive 509-786-7999 www.willowcrest winery.com Winemaker’s Loft 357 Port Ave. 509-786-2705 • Apex Cellars 509-786-1800 www.apexcellars.com

• Coyote Canyon Winery 509-786-7686 www.coyotecanyon winery.com • Maison Bleue Winery 509-786-2307 www.mbwinery.com • Martinez & Martinez Winery 509-786-2424 www.m2-wine.com • Michael Florentino Cellars 425-281-2323 www.michaelflorentino cellars.com • Plaza Winery 509-454-9463 www.plazawinery.net • Tasawik 509-786-2565 www.tasawik vineyards.com Prosser Food and Wine Park 2880 Lee Road, Suite C 509-786-3497 www.portofbenton.com/ pr_winefood.html • Alexandria Nicole Cellars 509-786-3497 www.alexandrianicole cellars.com • Blue Flame Spirits www.blueflame spirits.com • Cowan Vineyards 509-788-0200 www.cowan vineyards.com

• Heaven’s Cave 509-788-0008 www.heavenscave.com • Hogue Cellars 888-659-7900 www.hoguecellars.com • Kestrel Vintners 888-343-2675 www.kestrelwines.com • Mercer Estates 509-786-2097 www.mercerwine.com

breweries Horse Heaven Hills Brewery 1118 Meade Ave. 509-781-6400 www.horseheaven hillsbrewery.com Whitstran Brewing 1427 Wine Country Road 509-786-4922 www.whitstran brewing.com

other attractions Chukar Cherry Company 320 Wine Country Road 509-786-2055 www.chukar.com Yellow Rose Nursery 600 Merlot Drive 509-786-3304 www.yellowroseland scaping.com

OCTOBER 2 Fresh Hop Ale Festival Celebrate the Yakima Valley hop crop, which contributes nearly 80% of the total U.S. production. Get a taste of beers made by numerous area breweries, plus brewing demonstrations, local food fare, live music, and street dancing. For more information visit www.freshhopalefestival.com or call 509-966-0930.

things offered in the heart of the Yakima Valley. Plan to find treasures or stumble upon your own finds, but don’t be surprised if it’s the winemaker behind the bar splashing that wine in your glass. Teri Citterman is a freelance wine and travel writer; read more of her writings at www.anurbansip.com. www.nwpalate.com

Northwest Palate | September/October 2010

Located about an hour north of Seattle and 20 miles south of the Canadian border, Bellingham is a bayfront community surrounded by outdoor adventures, culinary and cultural activities in the city’s historic districts, and natural beauty to be found along scenic off-road byways.

bay city B y Kr i s W et h erbee

lights

irst things first: before we start exploring the area, let’s grab lunch at Giuseppe’s Italian Restaurant. Behind the nondescript front doors lies a portal back in time to an Italian anteroom. Framed by massive columns, the entrance hall features a grand piano and a large double-tiered fountain surrounded by lush container plants. Over the bar is a large mural of the Roman ruins overlooking the Mediterranean Sea at Taormina, Sicily—the birthplace of chef/owner Giuseppe Mauro. Chef Mauro’s food combines the best of both southern and northern Italian cuisine—for instance, Cozze e Vongole Marinara, an ensemble of mussels and clams dressed in a fresh tomato sauce. Spaghetti alla Bolognese features a meat sauce that’s richly flavored yet surprisingly light. Sufficiently fueled up, walk off those carbs along the tree-lined streets in Bellingham’s downtown area. Browse the display windows of art galleries and specialty shops on the way to the cultural district’s centerpiece—Whatcom Museum. Behold the museum’s new signature display, the Lightcatcher, which debuted in November 2009. The building’s glass façade 34

September/October 2010 | Northwest Palate

(designed by Seattle’s Olson Kundig Architects) reflects sunlight onto the museum’s courtyard during the day and illuminates the museum’s interior at night. Inside, the museum has fascinating permanent collections, including more than 500 mounted birds of prey and saltwater birds, plus exhibits on Pacific Northwest-focused artwork and historical photographs. Four blocks away is the Bellingham Railway Museum, filled with Lionel and Tinplate trains, and an exhibit on Railroad Lanterns of the Pre-radio Era. Nearby is another archive: the American Museum of Radio and Electricity. With exhibits illustrating the history of electrical and radio innovation—going as far back as the 1600s—and more than 1,000 radios, there’s something to pique the interest of any curious visitor. Settle in for the night at the European-style waterfront resort, Hotel Bellwether, which offers panoramic views of Mount Baker to the east and the stunning San Juan Islands to the west. Dinner at the hotel’s Harborside Restaurant offers more than just fabulous food. The outdoor terrace and glass-enclosed dining  www.nwpalate.com

photo by Rick Wetherbee

Photo by Monique Rodriguez

a taste of Bellingham

With Mt. Baker looming beautifully in the background, the Bellingham region’s many charms lure visitors the year ‘round. Culinary travelers can enjoy a wealth of fresh ocean ingredients as well as local, family farm-grown produce at restaurants known for their fineweather al fresco options. Culture seekers have plenty to explore as well, from the Victorianstyle Old City Hall to the ultramodern Lightcatcher building (below) housing the Whatcom Museum’s fine art collection.

542

539

Lummi Bay

Bellingham Cultural District

Bellingham Bay

Fairhaven 5

Lummi Island

PHOTO COURTESY OF WHATCOM MUSEUM

Northwest Palate | September/October 2010

Photo by kris wetherbee

photo by sommer cronk / Bellingham Whatcom County Tourism

Photo by rick wetherbee

Bellingham is located approximately 90 miles north of Seattle and an hour’s drive south of Vancouver, B.C. The town’s charm comes from the combination of its neighborhoods, including an active waterfront, Old Town, and arts district, as well as the natural beauty of its ocean and mountain surroundings. The freshness of local ingredients, particularly seafood and shellfish, are a magnet for culinary travelers who want to experience Pacific Northwest cuisine.

continued from 34

area overlook the marina and bay, with views of Lummi Island in the distance. Mediterranean-style seafood and soups are the specialty of Harborside’s chef, Robert Pinski. His Carrot Ginger Soup is sultry and spicy, while Thai-inspired Seafood Chowder has just the right balance of coconut milk and lime. Also superb are Crab Cakes with Citrus Aïoli and Fruit Salsa, and a succulent Cumin-Crusted Alaskan King Salmon with Grapefruit Beurre Blanc. After dinner, stroll amidst the Bellwether’s artistically landscaped grounds, enjoying the moment as the harvest sun casts layers of orange and red over the waters and purple-hued mountains.

Afoot in Fairhaven It’s a 10-minute drive to Fairhaven, a hamlet located on Bellingham’s south side. Adventure seekers, art lovers, and foodies alike will enjoy this charming neighborhood. Most of the shops, galleries, and boutiques are located in the federally designated Fairhaven Historic District’s six square blocks, which are perfect for wandering and window shopping. Fairhaven is also Bellingham’s transportation hub, with a bus and train station as well as ferries to Lummi Island, Victoria, B.C., and Alaska. There are also miles of trail systems to explore by bike or by foot, or you can charter a sailboat or sign up for a kayak adventure. And when it comes time to dine, there are about 25 restaurants to choose from. For something creative, try Flats, a tapas bar featuring flavors of Spain in a chic yet cozy atmosphere. Each table is dressed in a paper tablecloth and set with a box of crayons, 36

September/October 2010 | Northwest Palate

Bellingham Events SEPTEMBER 11

Whatcom County Farm Tour Experience the bounty of Northwest Washington on this free, familyfriendly self-guided tour of local farms—including dairy, berry, and vegetable farms, a winery, and a bison ranch. Stroll through fields and orchards, and hear the stories of the hardworking folks who put food on our tables. For more information visit www.sustainableconnections. org/events or call 360-647-7093 Ext. 114.

SEPTEMBER 18

Salmon Barbeque & Sidewalk Sale Saturday from 1– 4pm on the Village Green, enjoy barbecued wild King salmon, cole slaw, corn on the cob, plus live music. Admission is free; tasting fees vary. Also, come look for bargains at the Sidewalk Sale from 11am till 5pm on the streets of Fairhaven, as shops offer summer close-outs and specials. For more information visit www.fairhaven.com or call 360-920-8223.

making the urge to draw unrelenting. A wall off the side entrance features some of the more artistic drawings that patrons have created. At Flats, chef/owner Jennifer Branch emphasizes made-from-scratch cooking, and it shows in the gently garlicky aïoli that tops pan-seared scallops on a bed of

cannellini beans with caramelized onions and hazelnut pesto. Dessert is housemade Caramel Gelato, a smooth and creamy delight with a hint of vanilla bean. Local lodging options include the Fairhaven Village Inn, a 22-room inn that blends amenities found at an upscale hotel with the charm of a bed and breakfast. It’s a great base from which to meander the historic town, or set off for a day trip to surrounding area attractions.

From Orcas to Oysters About 10 miles north of Fairhaven is the ferry landing at Gooseberry Point, which connects to Lummi Island, a wooded, rural outpost on the most northeasterly of the San Juan archipelago. The small county ferry makes the six-minute crossing at least once an hour until midnight. Life moves at a slower pace on Lummi Island. The unspoiled beauty makes this a haven for nature lovers, with plenty of birdwatching and beachcombing opportunities, plus 18 miles of quiet country roads perfect for walking and biking. Whale watching is another big attraction. Orca whales can be spotted throughout summer and early fall. Outer Island Expeditions offers a late-morning whale watching tour, which also offers views of nature on land—flocks of mouflon sheep and fallow deer off in the distance, bald eagles hovering overhead, harbor seals, and perhaps a pod of orcas so close you can see mother and calves swimming together and hear them blow water through their blowhole. Back ashore, check in at The Willows Inn, which is renowned for its organic farm-to-table dining experience. Owned and operated by Riley Starks and Judy www.nwpalate.com

Olsen, the husband-and-wife team sources free-range eggs, pastured poultry, and organic produce from their own Nettles Farm, located a mere half-mile away. Local fishermen provide fresh-caught salmon, oysters, and spot prawns. Heading back to Fairhaven, check out the luxe Chrysalis Inn & Spa, where each of the guest rooms overlooks the bay and comes outfitted with a gas fireplace, twoperson bath, and window seat to gaze out at the tapestry of fishing boats, sailboat regattas, eagles, and seals. Dine at the Chrysalisâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; excellent Fino wine bar and restaurant, or, if youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re up for more exploring, take a short drive to the famous cliff-hugging wooded roadway of Chuckanut Drive, overlooking the radiant waters of Samish Bay, and The Oyster Bar on Chuckanut Drive, where every table has an amazing water view. Oysters, not surprisingly, feature heavily on executive chef Justin Gordonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s menu, including the buttery sweet and creamy Kumamoto oysters from the Samish Bay below. Here, and Bellingham in general, is a great place to dock for a while and watch the tide roll away.

Writer, cookbook author, and gardener, Kris Wetherbee is a frequent contributor to Northwest Palate.

hungry for more?

TRAVEL PLANNERâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;Bellingham places to eat Flats 1307 11th Street 360-738-6001 www.flatstapas.com Giuseppeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Italian Restaurant 21 Bellwether Way 360-714-8412 www.giuseppesitalian.com Harborside Restaurant 1 Bellwether Way 360-392-3200 www.harborsidebistro.com The Oyster Bar on Chuckanut Drive 2578 Chuckanut Drive (Bow, WA) 360-766-6185 www.theoysterbaronchuck anutdrive.com

things to do American Museum of Radio and Electricity 1312 Bay Street 360-738-3886 www.amre.us Bellingham Railway Museum 1320 Commercial Street 360-393-7540 www.bellinghamrailway museum.org

www.nwpalate.com

Outer Island Expeditions 54 Hunt Road (Eastsound, WA) 360-376-3711 www.outerislandx.com Whatcom Museum 121 Prospect Street 360-778-8930 www.whatcommuseum.org

Subscribe to Northwest Palate today and keep the best of regional food, wine, and culinary travel coming to your home or office. Every issue brings you the ultimate Northwest ingredients, recipes, chefs, and restaurants as well as hand-picked wines, winery visits, and wine country travel destinations.

places to stay Chrysalis Inn & Spa 804 10th Street 360-756-1005 www.thechrysalisinn.com Fairhaven Village Inn 1200 10th Street 360-733-1311 www.fairhavenvillageinn.com Hotel Bellwether 1 Bellwether Way 360-392-3100 www.hotelbellwether.com The Willows Inn 2579 West Shore Drive (Lummi Island, WA) 360-758-2620 www.willows-inn.com

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Northwest Palate | September/October 2010

sweet

bavarian dreams By MJ Cody

The town of Leavenworth offers an American take on Bavarian beauty. Playing off its Alpine-like setting at the base of the north Cascade Range mountains, the town offers Bavarianstyled buildings, specialty shops, wine tastings, and German-themed events and attractions. Besides wineries, restaurants, and gourmet shops, visitors can also enjoy hiking, fishing, camping, and golfing in the areaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nearby parks and wilderness regions. Photos by julie rylander

September/October 2010 | Northwest Palate

a taste of leavenworth

Leavenworth. The cute and kitschy Bavarian town in the eastern foothills of the Cascades is earning its worth as a culinary destination. Many of you may have visited or read about the town, and may be at this moment rolling your eyes discounting this possibility. Even I admit, I was so inclined once upon a time. But no more. s entertaining as strolling through endless curio shops and kicking up one’s clog-clad heels during Oktoberfest can be (see Leavenworth Events on page 41), Leavenworth has additional allure in its surrounding areas of pristine natural splendor—dramatic mountain landscapes, farmland, wineries, and the bountiful orchards of Wenatchee Valley.

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Sleeping Lady Mountain Resort 97

The heart of downtown Leavenworth is the Bavarian Village located along Front Street. Shopping borders on the fantastical— everything from high-end home decor and extravagant antiques to Alpine hats, bejeweled purses, and plastic bobblehead sheep, with a few foodie gems tucked amid the muddle. Check out the handcrafted chocolates at Schocolat; an excellent selection of cheeses, ranging from aged goudas to ripe triple crèmes, at the Cheesemongers Shop; artisan-smoked and cured meats at Cured by Visconti; more than 60 varieties of tea at Cup & Kettle; and frozen treats at Via Dolce Gelato. For frosty mugs and giant sausages, join the lineup (which can be long, but it actually moves quite fast) at the München Haus Bavarian Grill & Beer Garden. Once inside the biergarten, don’t rush too quickly to decide on one of the 10 or so mustards near the busy counter: there’s another assortment around the corner past the sauerkraut pot. Switching from beer stein to wine, there are several wineries with tasting rooms within easy walking distance along Front Street. Stop in at Ryan Patrick Vineyards and try their stainless steel-fermented “Naked” Chardonnay, and then pop across the street to sample Okanogan Estate’s delicious Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc. Continuing down the street, visit the shared tasting room of Silver Lake Winery and Glen Fiona. On the next block over and down a flight of steps is the tasting room of Icicle Ridge Winery, which pours a range of Germanic varietals—from Gewürztraminer and Riesling, to a rare single-varietal bottling of Beaujolais-like Lemberger. Further down the lane is an outpost of Prosser, Washington’s Kestrel Vintners; Bavarian Cellars, featuring the wines of Maison de Padgett; Bergdorf Cellars; and Pasek Cellars, which shares a space with Willow Crest (also based in Prosser). The Bavarian Village has its charms, but when the last oom has pahed, head for real rest and relaxation at the Sleeping Lady Mountain Resort. Located just three miles southwest of town, the resort is so named for the majestic mountain profile resembling a woman in repose that looms behind the property. 

Northwest Palate | September/October 2010

Photo provided by Sleeping lady mountain resort

Photo by Julie Rylander

Sleeping Lady is quintessential Pacific Northwest, from the fresh salmon served by chef Ken MacDonald at the Kingfisher Dining Lodge, to the naturalistically named cottages placed throughout the property.

Leavenworth Events SEPTEMBER 18

Leavenworth Crush Festival A fundraiser for the non-profit Leavenworth Civic Center Foundation, featuring more than 30 area wineries, food, music, and grape stomping. Tickets are $30 and include 15 tastes and a commemorative glass. For more information visit www.leavenworthcrushfestival. eventbrite.com or call 509-548-5807.

SEPTEMBER 26 & OCTOBER 24

Harvest Dinners Sleeping Lady’s executive chef Ken MacDonald showcases the local bounty with a prologue of regional wine and cheese tasting and a garden tour, followed by a sumptuous multi-course meal. For more information visit www.sleepinglady.com.

OCTOBER 1 & 2, 8 & 9, 15 & 16 Oktoberfest!

Put your lederhosen on during the first three weekends in October and dance to the oompah of German bands. There’s bratwurst, beer, and fun for the whole family. For more information visit www.leavenworthoktoberfest.com.

September/October 2010 | Northwest Palate

The Woman Behind Sleeping Lady Sleeping Lady is the creation of Harriet Bullitt, who envisioned a resort where the arts, nature, and good food would combine to create an atmosphere for reflection and camaraderie. Historically, the land was once home to Native American tribes, and later used as a Civilian Conservation Corps outpost, dude ranch, and Catholic school camp. Bullitt, who spent summers on her family’s farm located near the property, observed its various incarnations over the years. When the property came up for sale in 1991, she bought it. “Who knows what might have become of it?” says Bullitt, now in her mid-80s. “There was always a unique spirit here. Precious resources had already been subjected to more than a half a century of degradation with logging, mining, and dam building. What else could I do? I had to protect it.” Long passionate about conservation, Bullitt built the retreat (with the assistance of noted architect Johnpaul Jones) according to her own set of “green” standards: she insisted on preserving and retrofitting existing structures, including the original 1930s CCC buildings, and established an environmentally sound conference center. Meeting spaces and a central dining lodge were made accessible by trails leading to naturally landscaped grounds and A-frame cabins. “I felt people needed to be outside, to breathe the fresh air and greet each other surrounded by nature,” she says. “A sense of place is one of the strongest emotions for anyone. I wanted my guests to feel that they belonged here—as though they had entered a special other world.”

In direct contrast to town, one enters a naturalist’s—and artist’s—oasis. Paths meander through aspen and pine trees, in perfect harmony with the indigenous scrub of native plants and rocks. Sculptures and art installations dot the property, such as the one along the banks of Icicle Creek with several giant fiberglass salmon sculptures, each decorated by a different artist. Dale Chihuly’s first outdoor installment, Icicle Creek Chandelier, seems to burst out of the top of a huge boulder visible from the dining lodge. Illuminated at night, it’s a striking sight. Charming guest rooms are located in clusters of cabins, each named after a different natural feature—Pond, Meadow, Fountain, or Forest. Amenities include spa facilities, an outdoor natural rock pool, and The Grotto bar, with its patio waterfall and fire pit.

Back to the Buffet The property also has a two-acre Washington State-certified organic garden, which supplies, in part, the produce for the farm-to-table fare created by executive chef Ken MacDonald. Originally from Glasgow, Scotland, MacDonald has spent more than 20 years in kitchens around the world, including City Tattersals Members Club in Sydney, Australia, the Pan Pacific Sonargoan Hotel in Dhaka, Bangladesh, and most recently, Esteban Restaurant at the historic Casa Munras Hotel in Monterey, California. Yet, here he is, in what some might call an obscure corner of the Pacific Northwest, overseeing culinary operations at Sleeping Lady. www.nwpalate.com

“It’s all about simple, basic food that tastes great,” says MacDonald, who also orchestrates monthly harvest dinners that showcase the local bounty (see Leavenworth Events on page 41). For the nightly buffet dinners he serves at the resort’s Kingfisher Dining Lodge, MacDonald offers an array of dishes to please every palate—from wild mushroom soup and filets of grilled line-caught fish in Champagne sauce, to slices of hormonefree pork, olive oil-roasted organic fingerling potatoes, and fresh-from-the-garden sautéed baby bok choy. For dessert, there’s chocolate-dipped strawberries, mini-cups of lemon posset with blackberries, coconut-lemon macaroon tarts, and other dreamy desserts. The breakfast buffet is another lavish spread—pancakes, bacon, sausages, homemade preserves, fresh fruit, homemade granola, freshly made omelets, and more. It seems wherever you may be in Leavenworth at meal time, you can’t escape the smorgasbord.

Memaloose Columbia Gorge,

Lyle, Washington

wines for food winesoftheGorge.com

MJ Cody writes the column, “Sleeping Around the Northwest,” which appears in the Sunday Oregonian and online at www.sleeparoundnw.com. TRAVEL PLANNER—Leavenworth Sleeping Lady Mountain Resort 7375 Icicle Road 800-574-2123 www.sleepinglady.com

places to eat & drink Cheesemongers Shop 819 Front Street 877-888-7389 www.cheesemongersshop.com Cup and Kettle 725 Front Street 509-548-8327 Cured by Visconti 636 Front Street 509-888-0424 www.curedbyvisconti.com Mûnchen Haus 709 Front Street 509-548-1158 www.munchenhaus.com Schocolate 843 Front Street (inside Ganz Klasse) 877-763-7274 www.schocolat.com Via Dolce Gelato 636 Front Street (inside Visconti’s) 509-548-6712 www.viadolcegelato.com

places to taste Bavarian Cellars (Maison de Padgett Winery) 208 9th Street 509-548-7717 www.maisondepadgett winery.com

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Bergdorf Cellars 939 Front Street 509-548-7638 www.bergdorfcellars.com Glen Fiona 715 Front Street 509-548-5788 www.glenfiona.com Icicle Ridge Winery 821-B Front Street 509-548-6156 www.icicleridgewinery.com Kestrel Vintners 843-B Front Street 509-548-7348 www.kestrelwines.com Okanogan Estate 703 Front Street 509-548-5412 www.okanoganwine.com Pasek Cellars 939-B Front Street 509-548-5166 www.pasekcellars.com Ryan Patrick Vineyards 636 Front Street 509-888-2236 www.ryanpatrickvineyards.com Silver Lake Winery 715 Front Street 509-548-5788 www.silverlakewinery.com Willow Crest Winery 939-B Front Street 509-548-5166 www.willowcrestwinery.com

Northwest Palate | September/October 2010

Farm to table

Setting a Big Table by Kathleen Bauer

Clementine, the Catahoula leopard hound, has been anxious since dawn, not wanting to be too far from her owner, Clare Carver of Big Table Farm. Clare has been moody for the past couple of days. Even Clare’s husband, Brian, has been giving his wife a wide berth. When Clare goes up to the hill pasture to sit with her pigs, Picnic and Pancake, Clementine stations herself with a good view of the road. She knows something is coming, something that is making Clare sad, and she wants to be ready.

LEFT: “It’s good to enjoy wine with swine” is the mantra at Big Table Farm, where Clare Carver sips a glass of Laughing Pig Rosé. CENTER: The myriad shades of brown, beige, and even green eggs laid by the farm’s heirloom chickens.

photo by Kathleen bauer

photo by Brian Marcy

/ RIGHT: The subjects of

Clare Carver’s paintings are the sceneries and still lifes she finds around her, and the brilliant colors in her paintings reflect the vibrant palette of the land surrounding Big Table Farm.

Clare Carver sits in the pen with her pigs, scratching their backs when they lean their 300-pound bodies against her, snorting and squinting in the bright sunlight. Like a couple of big dogs, they dash off to play with each other, or to chase something in the bushes, or to root through the grass in the pasture, but eventually they come back to get more attention from Clare. She’s raised them from tiny weaner pigs, and today is their last day. Clare is a painter whose subjects are the cows, horses, chickens, goats, pigs, old trucks, and tractors that populate the farm she owns with her husband, Brian Marcy, in Williams Canyon outside Gaston, Oregon. She also has a large vegetable garden that supplies most of the couple’s food and the large farm dinners they host for people who buy the wines Brian makes under the Big Table Farm label. Growing up in a large Catholic family (she has eight brothers and sisters), Clare heard stories about the farm in upstate New York that her parents had bought in the late 1950s. They sold the farm when Clare was seven and moved their large family to the suburbs of Valley Forge, Pennsylvania. She carried those tales 42

September/October 2010 | Northwest Palate

of the farm with her into her career as an advertising art director for an East Coast advertising agency. One day a consultant for the agency told her, “You need to go out and see the world. You shouldn’t be doing this because your life is going to look exactly the same in 10 years as it does now.” “It was a complete wake-up call,” Clare said. She sold all her belongings and moved to San Francisco to start her own business. Shortly after the move she began dating Brian, who was transitioning to making wine after working for several years as a beer brewer. “With beer, the whole goal is to take varying inputs and make the same product year in and year out without considering season or ingredients,” she said of the large brewer that Brian was working for. “In wine it’s just the opposite, where people expect the product to be affected by season and ingredients. It felt more creative to him.” Their move to Oregon was prompted, oddly enough, by a season spent harvesting grapes in Australia. While he worked the harvest for three-and-a-half months, she spent her time doing her art. www.nwpalate.com

“It was a really romantic time for transforming the nearly ruined hillsides us, and we started looking around and pastures of their Big Table Farm at the land,” she said, recalling that into an organic, balanced system. Brian one day they walked by a local real made a trailer, called the “chicken bus,” to estate office and noticed farms for sale. transport their laying chickens from one “Honestly, that was the first time it area to the next. Goats clear blackberries started to creep into our consciousness and scrub, watched over by a “guard llama” that we could have a farm as well as that challenges any predators that get too have a winery.” close. The cows, pigs, and draft horses are Originally they thought about confined by electrified tape that can be relocating to Australia but realized that easily moved when the pasture needs a they didn't want to be that far from break from grazing. their families back in the U.S., so they When Salatain made a trip to Oregon, began looking at property closer to Clare asked him about organic feed, an home. Their dream of having a farm Every creature at Big Table Farm has a job to do, important part of the system at their farm. of their own took the form of a fairly including the horses that plow the soil, the chickens Salatin’s answer? “People can handle simple list of requirements: It had to who fertilize the grass, the goats that eat the nudists and they can handle Buddhists, but blackberry brambles, and Clementine, who herds be within an hour of a big city so Clare they can’t handle nudist Buddhists.” wayward chickens and watches over her human could continue her graphic design charges. photo courtesy big table farm “What he was saying is that people can business, it needed to be located in a handle the concept of pasture, they can get wine-producing area so Brian could their head around that,” she said. “But when be a consulting winemaker while developing their vineyard and, of you start talking about pasture and then you start talking about course, it had to be within their budget. organic feed, they hold their heads and scream.” The farm they found in 2006 fit their list to a T: Close to She told Salatin that while that might be the case in his home Portland, it was in the middle of a burgeoning wine region. It had state of Virginia, she felt that Northwesterners were able to handle perfect southeast-facing hills and a charming Victorian farmhouse. that kind of information—like the fact that she flat out refuses to Their bid was accepted. send any of her animals to processing facilities to be slaughtered. “We didn’t really know anything about farming. We read The “The primary reason is because of the stress on the animal,” she Omnivore’s Dilemma by Michael Pollan when we were closing on said. “The stress and the adrenaline that goes through the animal the property,” Clare said. “It totally changed the way we thought we changes the meat, and there’s hard science behind that.” were going to set up our farm.” Take pigs, she said. They’re very smart and sensitive, so when While the book is mostly about what Pollan believes is they’re put into a truck for the first time in their lives, it’s terribly the broken food system in the United States, where people are stressful. And a pig’s sense of smell is even keener than a dog’s. disconnected from the sources of their food, he also writes about “Can you imagine what a processing center smells like to a a visit to Polyface Farm in the Shenandoah Valley and farmer pig?” she asked. “It makes my hair stand up just to think about it. Joel Salatin. Salatin calls himself a “grass farmer” and believes in Those poor animals.” rotating the animals on the land to keep the soil and the plants, and Because strict federal regulations require any meat that is sold thus the people who eat the animals and plants, healthy. to the public must be processed in a USDA-approved facility, With Salatin’s principles in mind, Brian and Clare are the meat from her pasture-slaughtered pigs can’t be sold in 

Wines from the Big Table Syrah White Hawk Vineyard 2007 The grapes were grown on ancient sand dunes on the south-facing slopes of the Los Alamos Valley in Santa Barbara County, California. Soft tannins are structured to age gracefully for 3–5 years. The label features one of Clare’s pigs in another form—as one of Brian’s cured hams, which, not coincidentally, is a great pairing with this wine. (195 cases produced, unfined and unfiltered, 15.2% alcohol) $48

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Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2008  Aromas of cherries, berries, and roses release upon swirling and burst softly on the supple palate, finishing with fine-grained tannins. This blend was primarily sourced from the Johan Vineyard, farmed by Dan Rinke using environmentally responsible farming practices (and working toward biodynamic certification). Dan gathers the manure from the cows at Big Table Farm and is using it in the preparations for the vineyard rows he’s farming. (77 cases produced, 13.2% alcohol) $38

Pinot Noir Rosé Cattrall Vineyard 2009 Featuring Clare’s illustration, “Laughing Pig,” on the label, the ‘09 Rosé was made with grapes

from the oldest certified organic vineyard in Oregon and then barrel-fermented to dryness, completed malolactic, and aged sur lie until the day before it was bottled. This piggly-giggly pink is fresh yet lush on the palate. (100 cases produced, unfined and unfiltered, 14.1% alcohol) $22

Pinot Noir Resonance Vineyard 2008 This vineyard, located just west of Carlton in Oregon’s Yamhill-Carlton AVA, is certified Biodynamic®. Sur lie aging and a careful combination of new and used oak produce a silky texture, balanced by spicy tannins and dark red fruit—cherries and cranberries. Josephine the cow, a resident of Big Table Farm, adorns the handmade and affixed label. (94 cases produced, 13.1% alcohol) $45

Northwest Palate | September/October 2010

continued from 43

supermarkets or at farmers markets. This is despite the growing demand for just the kind of pasture-raised meat she and other small-scale farmers in the region are producing. With small processing plants closing down because of the recession, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hard for small producers to get their animals into larger slaughter facilities. With just a handful of USDA-approved mobile slaughter trucks in the entire Northwest, there isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t one available for Clareâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s farm. Which brings us back to Clementine standing watch and Clare waiting with her pigs in their hillside pasture. When the truck from Frontier Custom Cutting finally pulls into the driveway in the late morning, Clemmie starts barking. She wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t stop until it leaves. Richard, a burly man wearing orange rubber overalls and carrying a black rifle, walks up the hill. While Clare distracts Picnic with some fresh eggs, Richard puts the rifle behind Pancakeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ear and pulls the trigger. Then he walks over to Picnic munching on her egg and does the same. Clare feels itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the most respectful way to kill them. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The bullet goes right to the spinal cord, but their heart is still pumping, so theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re essentially brain dead,â&#x20AC;? she said. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a little violent but it doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t last very long. That part is the part I hate to watch, but dying is dying and itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not pretty. It is what it is. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I really hope when itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s my time I get afforded a respectful, quick death,â&#x20AC;? she added. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s what I would want. So I do the best I can for my animals in that sense.â&#x20AC;? And each time she allows herself to feel the loss.

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the way you feel when a human dies. Theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re goneâ&#x20AC;Śreally gone,â&#x20AC;? she said. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I go out to their pasture the next day and Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m like, oh, theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re gone. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a reminder of how much power we have and how careful we have to be of that power, that we just created and took this life.â&#x20AC;? An observer could note that, in the way they run their farm and raise their animals, she and Brian havenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t chosen an easy route. And, like the move to Oregon and buying the land, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s all been done without a business plan. â&#x20AC;&#x153;If we had a business plan, some things might be smoother for us,â&#x20AC;? Clare said. â&#x20AC;&#x153;But, like anything in life, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s like, â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Well, Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m going up that hill and maybe Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m not going to take the straightest path. But maybe Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m going to see some things I didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t expect if I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have an exact map of how Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m going to get there.â&#x20AC;&#x2122; â&#x20AC;&#x153;Sure, if we had a business plan we might get to the top of the hill faster,â&#x20AC;? she continued, â&#x20AC;&#x153;but weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re still going up there because we have the same goals and that hasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t changed. Or if it does, we talk about it and we change it together.â&#x20AC;? Asked about the best part of their lives on Big Table Farm, she thought for a moment, then answered. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Almost every morning when I do chores I look around and this incredibly deep sense of satisfaction strikes me,â&#x20AC;? she said. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Being deeply happy with this path weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re on now.â&#x20AC;? Kathleen Bauer is a Portland, Oregon-based freelance writer. Visit her blog at www.goodstuffnw.com.

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tasting notes

wine views & reviews Wines exhibiting complexity, varietal focus, and excellent structure (balanced fruit and acid in white wines; balanced fruit, acid, and tannins in reds) are rated Exceptional. Wines that are well-balanced and exhibit varietal focus and persistent flavors are Highly Recommended. Well-made wines displaying good varietal character and balance are Recommended.

Recommended

Highly Recommended

Exceptional

Pinot Gris

Pinot Gris styles are all over the map in the Northwest, from barrel-aged and leesy to taut and assertively dry. Partly this variation is because this cool-climate grape is broadening its geographic range outside of its largest concentration of producers in the Willamette Valley. More warm-climate areas like Washington’s Wahluke Slope and the maybe-soon-tobe AVA of the Ancient Lakes are home to Pinot Gris vines. Easy-drinking Pinot Gris wines with noticeable residual sugar are still popular, but increasingly the wines are being made in a crisp, dry, and fruity style that is showing consumers how sophisticated the flavors of this excellent grape can be.

Dusted Valley Vintners

2008 Pinot Gris, Boomtown, Columbia Valley Full smells of dried grass and green apple are at first subtle, but gather force with swirling. In the mouth, tart apple and grapefruit tastes are rich and broad, accented by notes of fresh straw and honey. Tasty and straightforward, this Pinot Gris is perfect for pairing with linguini, cream, and chopped fennel and hazelnuts. (250 cases made.) $13

King Estate

2009 Pinot Gris, Signature Collection, Oregon Clean scents of dried grass, green apple, and floral potpourri are pretty and inviting on the nose. Bright appley fruit is forward and fresh in the mouth, with white peach and citrus notes quickly revealing themselves. There is good force behind the flavors and excellent length. As the wine warms, more floral notes emerge, but the crisp acidity keeps everything bright and lively. Serve with cold smoked chicken on a warm afternoon picnic. $17

Milbrandt Vineyards 2008 Pinot Gris, Traditions, Columbia Valley Aromas of peach and

vintage value

pear are subtle and require some swirling to activate, but the characteristic Gris fruit is clean, clear, and inviting. Focused flavors of green apple and green melon are piercing on the palate thanks to brilliant acidity. Added notes of minerality and the tartness of pear skin give the wine additional definition. Crisp, dry, and fruity, serve this wine with fettuccine alfredo. (4,424 cases made.) $10

Seven Hills

2009 Pinot Gris, Oregon Spicy aromas of baked apple give a luscious quality to the nose, with accents of citrus zest and vanilla. Lean and light-bodied, flavors of peach and lemonlime are clean and immodest thanks to forceful acidity. Minty hues and a touch of toast emerge in the background, and the finish is long, crisp, and fruity. An elegant wine that calls for pairing with lightly breaded Dungeness crab cakes. (1,570 cases made.) $16

Wild Goose

Northwest Chardonnay wines are among the most exciting being made in the region. New attention to both clones and winemaking are producing varying styles—from full-on oakfermented and barrel-aged wines, to no-oak, no-malo versions. Whichever approach you prefer, renewed winemaking attention is producing extremely well-balanced wines in nearly every stylistic genre.

Bergström

2009 Chardonnay, Old Stones, Willamette Valley Glowing golden color is inviting, as is the understated yet layered nose of peach scents, minty aromas, and subtle nutty notes. On the tongue, the wine has a supple, even sensuous, soft texture that carries focused flavors of ripe peach and apple. Background minerality combines with the merest whiff of butter and subtle grassy notes that complement the lissome fruit. Extremely well-balanced with sufficient acidity for a bright character, yet plenty of fruit for a lush mouthfeel. Still youthful, this is a masterfully made Chardonnay that will add weight and depth with cellaring—though it can also be enjoyed tonight with pan-grilled halibut. $30

Black Hills

2008 Chardonnay, Okanagan Valley A mix of one-third stainless steel and two-thirds barrel fermentation preserves acidity and fruitiness while imparting toasty spice and structure. Look for aromas and flavors of butterscotch, lemon custard, spiced apple, and vanilla. Delicious with halibut beurre blanc. (600 cases made.) $30CDN

Lange Estate

2009 Pinot Gris, Okanagan Valley VQA A touch of French oak imparts spiciness on both the fragrant nose and lingering finish. The mainly stainless steel fermentation captures fresh orchard fruit: apple, pear, peach, apricot. Savory notes and honeydew melon add character. Pair with smoked salmon. $19CDN

Wild Goose

Chardonnay

2009 Pinot Gris, Mystic River Vineyard, Okanagan Valley VQA Located just north of Oliver, the vineyard’s gravel and loam soils yield expressive fruit character. The aromatic nose leads to a deliciously juicy palate. Look for citrus, floral, melon, and stone fruit, along with hints of vanilla from partial French oak treatment. A match for Wiener Schnitzel. $23CDN

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2009 Chardonnay, Three Hills Cuvée, Willamette Valley Deep golden bronze color introduces a sumptuous nose of peach, melon, mint, and citrus notes. Supple texture across the tongue carries lavish flavors of guava and peach, as well as higher tones of lemon curd and mint. As the wine warms in the mouth, notes of lavender combine with dried herbs to give a subtle accent to the deep fruit. Very well-balanced, the acidity adds freshness while the pliant mouthfeel delivers a silky sense of richness. The extended finish is sweet and satisfying. This elegant yet substantial Chardonnay would cellar well, but could be served now with boudin blanc. (410 cases made.) $30

stellar

selection

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Phelps Creek Vineyards

2008 Chardonnay, Estate Reserve, Columbia Gorge Deep golden color leads to

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forceful and layered aromas of butterscotch, grilled peach, toast, and citrus zest. On the tongue, the wine offers an immediate sense of crisp lemon-lime fruit with a pleasing citrus zest bite. There are also notes of smoke, oak, and pear flesh. The jaunty acidity gives an edginess to the flavors, yet there is great balance with intense fruit and balanced oakiness. The finish is quite complex, with plenty of swirling smoke and citrus qualities. An ageable Chardonnay, it would also pair well with roasted tarragon chicken. (141 cases made.) $26

Seven of Hearts

2008 Chardonnay, Elvenglade Vineyard, Yamhill-Carlton District Clean scents of apple and peach have a pleasing creamy note on the nose. Rich and full on the palate, the balanced buttery tones add weight and a sense of sweetness to the tart apple and peach flavors, while distinct minerality lends an intriguing edge to the flavors. Good acidity adds force to the tastes, and the finish is unusually long and forceful with bold apple notes sustaining themselves well. A punchy and almost zesty Chardonnay, this would be a fine accompaniment to scallops wrapped in bacon. (97 cases made.) $24

Woodward Canyon

SinclairEstateVineyards.com 109-B East Main Street (509) 876-4300

VineAndRoses.com 516 South Division Street (509) 876-2113

2008 Chardonnay, Washington Rich honey color. Full aromas of ripe yellow fruits combine well with more subtle tones of oak and smoke. Silky and weighty on the tongue, succulent flavors of yellow peach and apple are forward and satisfying, followed quickly by notes of subtle oak, dried spices, and toast. Excellent acidity pushes forward all the flavors making for a bright mouthful of fruit, yet there are additional complexities layered beneath, including dried herbs and nuts. Full of flavor, this wine will age well, yet can be enjoyed right now with Tuscan white bean soup. (736 cases made.) $44

Pinot Blanc

Northwest Pinot Blanc is coming of age. Where once it could almost be called Pinot Blah, todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best wines are full of forceful fruit flavors and made in a clean, tank-fermented manner. A variety with a bright future, especially in British Columbia and Oregon thanks to cool-climate growing regions, the number of well-made wines seems to be increasing.

Anne Amie

2008 Pinot Blanc, Willamette Valley Spice-centered scents of dried basil and toast combine with apple and lemon cream to create an engaging nose. Tart and assertive on the tongue, bright tastes of apple and lemon fruit ď&#x201A;&#x2020;

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are complemented by a sense of spearmint in the background and dried flower blossoms forming a top note. Great acidity gives verve to the complex flavors of this wine. Serve with game hen and wild mushrooms. $20

David Hill Vineyards

2008 Pinot Blanc, Estate, Willamette Valley Golden honey in color. Aromas of dried nuts, toast, and baked apples are savory in the nose. Tones of dried apple, hazelnuts, and toast are broad in the mouth, with dried herb accents adding a light minty quality. Well-balanced with good acidity, the fruit is somewhat muted by the sense of toast and nuts, but the combination offers plenty of depth and flavor. Pair with crostini topped with basil and tomato. (112 cases made.) $15

Ganton & Larsen Prospect Winery BC

2008 Pinot Blanc, Birch Canoe, Okanagan Valley VQA Punchy notes of apple aromas are appealing on the beaming nose, with light citrus tones creeping in. Bright and sweet apple flavors dance on the tongue with lively force, while orange zest in the background adds some needed zing to the dulcet fruit. This no-frills Pinot Blanc delivers plenty of flavor, and would pair well with grilled shrimp skewers

Mission Hill

Ponzi Vineyards

2008 Pinot Blanc, Reserve, Okanagan Valley VQA The sur lie aging in French oak imparts toasty spice, vanilla, and a sense of creaminess. The varietal fruit character bursts with aromas and flavors of juicy Fuji apple, fresh peach, and vibrant citrus on the finish. A match for salmon Wellington. $19CDN

Pappas Wine Co.

vintage value

2009 Pinot Blanc, Willamette Valley Bright aromas of pear and freshly cut grass fairly leap from the glass. In the mouth, dried apple and roasted pear fruitiness have weight, substance, and force, with a touch of dried mint and herbs to lend a savory sense. The bold acidity adds life to a focused fruit core, giving the wine a zesty energy. The finish is a tad short, but full of apple notes. Serve with cold picnic chicken. $15

2009 Pinot Blanc, Willamette Valley Bright and sweet grapefruit and citrus scents are juicy and forward on the potent nose. Full and roundfeeling on the palate, substantial fresh apple and grapefruit flavors are clean, clear, and crisp thanks to scintillating acidity. Even so, there is a lush quality on the tongue with a gentle velvety texture that contrasts wonderfully with the edgy quality of the fruit. The finish is persistent and offers lingering apple and pear skin qualities. The bright fruit pairs well with the smoky savoriness of a traditional quiche Lorraine. (1,036 cases made.) $15

vintage value

Youngberg Hill Vineyards

2009 Pinot Blanc, Willamette Valley Expansively aromatic, juicy scents of white fruits are delectable on the assertive nose. Tart white peach flavors are tightly wound, with plenty of crisp acidity giving the wine a zesty sense. Notes of apple and orange emerge as the wine warms in the mouth, providing a tasty mixture of bold fruitiness. Persistent on the palate, this is a fresh Pinot Blanc, perfect for autumn sipping with grilled shrimp. (204 cases made.) $18

$13CDN “NOSE” can be a confusing bit of winespeak. Generally, the term is meant to describe the primary fruit aromas and secondary scents produced by the winemaking process in a young wine. It can be confused with “bouquet” which describes the smells produced after a wine has seen years of bottle age.

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GewĂźrztraminer

GewĂźrztraminer is not a variety climbing the Northwestâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sales charts. Too bad; when done well, this grape offers great fruit and spice character that gives it superb food-pairing variety and more tasting interest than the ubiquitous tastes of the more clichĂŠd white wines. Winegrowers in B.C.â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Okanagan Valley understand this: some of the oldest GewĂźrztraminer vineyards in the region are located there, and the variety has been made in all manner of styles, from bone dry to icewine and even sparkling wine. No matter where itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s made, ripeness of fruit and balance of dryness are key qualities to seek when looking for ST 4 1 GewĂźrz. ANNUAL a great 4 1 ST A N N U A L 41

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vintage

and lychee. There is great intensity of the flavors, and the strong sweetness is that of fruit, not sugar. Excellent acidity makes the wine fresh, yet the fruit is full and rich, not edgy. The finish is quite lengthy, and plenty of spice notes develop. Pair this wine with persillade-topped oysters on the half shell. (137 cases made.) $15

BergstrĂśm

2009 GewĂźrztraminer, Hyland Vineyard, Willamette Valley Spice-dominated aromas offer dried rose petals, lychee, lime, and citrus tones in a complex and involving nose. Immediately offering potent, sweet white peach and melon flavors, the wine quickly broadens on the palate with apple and citrus tones accented by clove and lychee. Good acidity gives the flavors energy and zing, yet the sweet fruitiness is mouthfilling and persistent. An elegant wine that seems to demand your attention to parse its different elements. The quintessential pairing of choucroute Alsacienne is definitely called for here. $28

Brandborg

value

2008 GewĂźrztraminer, Umpqua Valley Warming notes of dried apple,

2006 GewĂźrztraminer, Dry Style, Umpqua Valley Full golden

clove, yellow fruits, and dried grass are dense and fulfilling on the nose. Broad and sweet on the palate, lush peach and lychee flavors are vibrant thanks to forward acidity, and complemented by notes of tea leaf and dried potpourri. While

color introduces a nose of lychee, citrus, and dried rose blossoms. In the mouth, there is an immediate sense of sweet grapefruit and orange complemented by nuances of allspice

bordering on off-dry, the sweetness adds a plump quality to the mouthfeel that balances the zingy fruitiness. Pair with vichyssoise for a warm weather treat. (595 cases made.) $16

Lake Breeze

2009 GewĂźrztraminer, Okanagan Valley VQA Off-dry. Fresh melon and citrus scents follow the initial, bold lychee attack. This rich, hefty style serves up flavors of lychee nut and spicy tropical fruit. Nutmeg and citrus peel linger on the long, dry finish. Poised for charcuterie. (800 cases made.) $18CDN Good value.

Wild Goose

2009 GewĂźrztraminer, Mystic River Vineyard, Okanagan Valley VQA Off-dry. A very fragrant nose with lychee, citrus, and rose petal. Lots of juicy peach, guava, and lime flavors, with a long spicy finish. Firm acidity ensures balance and refreshment, and signals the Okanagan style of GewĂźrz. Pairs well with mildly spiced Thai seafood. $23CDN VINTNERS QUALITY ALLIANCE (VQA): In British Columbia, VQA is an Appellation of Origin system by which consumers can identify wines of Canada based on the origin of the grapes from which they are made. While similar to American Viticultural Areas (AVAs), in British Columbia an added twist is given to the VQA certification that isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t done in the U.S. In addition, the VQA stamp means a wine has been submitted to an expert panel and meets or exceeds certain specified standards of quality.

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Northwest Palate | September/October 2010

Pinot Noir

Oregonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Pinot Noir wines have earned a global reputation for quality. One interesting aspect of this cool-climate variety is that it is so expressive of vintage variation. This can be a mixed blessing. The 2007 vintage in the Willamette Valley, for instance, was generally cooler and wetter than in recent years, and the wines tend to reflect a less extracted, higher acid, and elegantly fruity character than in more recent and warmer years. Some national wine critics have panned the vintage, unduly condemning in the minds of many consumers the entire production. Hogwash! There are superb 2007 wines made by a number of producers. The 2008 vintage just coming to market, by contrast, was more evenly balanced in weather and is already receiving high praise as one of the best Pinot Noir vintages of the past decade.

Amalie Robert

2007 Pinot Noir, Amalieâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s CuvĂŠe, Willamette Valley Pretty scents of strawberry and red cherry fruit have a sweet sense on the nose, with gentle backing notes of tea leaf. The light mouthfeel nevertheless carries potent flavors of sweet, ripe red cherries and lush strawberries, with subtle notes of dried herbs, star anise, and baking spice. Extremely fine tannins are barely noticeable, yet admirably contain the intense fruit essence of this wine. Great balance, excellent length, and powerful fruit combine to make this the ultimate salmon wine. For those who think 2007 in Oregon was a bad vintageâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;just taste this! (311 cases made.) $50

stellar

selection

Artisanal Wine Cellars

rose-hued wine offers earth-accented scents of crushed red fruits with hints of tea leaf on the nose. Sweet cherry fruit is carried to the palate with a pleasing velvety texture and gentle mouthfeel. A balanced sense of toast and oak backs the tart and high-toned fruit with a

Friday, November 5th 128 NW 11th St., Portland OR 50

September/October 2010 | Northwest Palate

2007 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley This

The Gerding Theater at the Armory

pleasing sense of spice. The tannin structure, though noticeable, is perfectly balanced. This well-made â&#x20AC;&#x2122;07 Pinot offers the kind of sweet red fruitiness that pairs well with rabbit rillettes. (249 cases made.) $20

Brandborg

2007 Pinot Noir, Bench Lands, Umpqua Valley The light rosy color is typical of the vintage. The nose is full of meaty, ripe cherry fruit with gentle smoky notes. Sweet red cherry flavors are focused and forward on the lush palate, with complexity added by lavender and caramel tones. Soft tannins and good acidity give verve, while the strong fruit center is consistent from start to finish. Serve with blue cheese-stuffed pork chops. (3,786 cases made.) $22

Cubanisimo

2008 Pinot Noir, Estate, Willamette Valley Distinct notes of basil herb and sassafras are forward on the nose, surrounding a sweet red cherry core. Velvety on the palate, with a mouthfilling freshness of high-toned sweet-tart cherry and raspberry flavors. Beautifully balanced between fresh fruit flavors, clean bright acidity, and subtle but noticeable tannins. This is a Pinot with length and breadth. Delicious to pair with fresh-caught pan-roasted trout. (750 cases made.) $30

GRAND TASTING

Fri. Nov TH n PM s 4ICKETS For more information and to orDER TICKETS TODAy,

VISIT

SORWA Org OR CALL 866-501-3881

Age restrictions apply.

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Methven Family Vineyards 2007 Pinot Noir, Reserve, Willamette Valley Rich wafts of deep cherry fruit are blended with delicate herb notes reminiscent of tarragon and more strident tones of toast. Concentrated dark cherry fruit forms the core of the wine on the palate, with outlying notes of earth and oak tannins. Espresso and a subtle note of roasted nuts provides a savory accent to the essentially sweet black cherry backbone. Good acidity and plenty of grip imply the wine is still young feel. Cellar for 2–3 years for additional integration. (100 cases made.) $45

Scott Paul

2008 Pinot Noir, D122, Ribbon Ridge Wafts of crushed red fruit scents combine with pretty rose and violet floral notes, as well as a more subtle forest floor quality to create a classically pure Pinot nose. Focused and rich on the palate, sweet flavors of raspberries and blackberries are initially taut on the palate, with tannin structure showing amply on the finish. Additional sips show a well-balanced and mouthfilling wine very much in its youth. The fruit has power and verve, yet with a sturdy character reinforced by explicit structure. Cellaring is called for if this wine is to show its best—but you could also enjoy now with sweetbreads. (100 cases made.) $35

Cabernet Sauvignon It seems that everyone wants to grown Cabernet Sauvignon. In the Northwest there’s hardly a wine country where someone isn’t trying to grow this classic Bordeaux variety. In fact, the grape can only reach its highest potential in carefully chosen sites. In the Northwest, Washington is home to more outstanding Cabernet Sauvignon wines than anywhere else. Here it seems winegrowers know how to select the right sites to achieve optimal ripening, and winemakers know how to treat the grape with the care needed to achieve its full varietal character. Even so, other areas are showing promise for the variety, especially in the south Okanagan Valley, Southern Oregon, and the Walla Walla Valley.

Airfield Estates

2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, Yakima Valley Rich aromas of blackcurrant and blackberry, and surrounded by notes of barrel char, vanilla, and licorice. Supple on the palate, flavors of black cherry and currants wash across the palate, with furry tannins emerging as the wine swirls. Notes of licorice and toast reveal themselves alongside the fruit, while on the finish, cola and a sense of vegetal leaf linger. Well-balanced and structured, this Cabernet is a good choice for beef daube. (779 cases made.) $22 www.nwpalate.com

Wines true to the soil Wines true to the vintage® Shortly after attending the Pinot Noir auction, Dena and Ernie began their search for the last best place to grow Pinot Noir. It was the spring of 1999 when we discovered our 30 acre Pinot Noir vineyard. It was hiding under an old cherry orchard in Oregon’s Willamette Valley. Since then, we have discovered the vineyard has several voices — Hers, His and The Reserve.

Amalie’s Cuvée is a Pommard and Wadenswil clone blend of Pinot Noir. These are the two clones that established Oregon Pinot Noir in the late 1960s. However, it is Dena that gives the ﬁnal nod to the blend. “It has to show pretty fruit and balance. I want to see the elegant side of Pinot Noir in my cuvée.” It’s also personal, as “Amalie” is Dena’s middle name. - 91 points Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar, July/August 2010

Estate is Ernie’s selection and is often described as Amalie’s big brother. It has more weight in the mid-palate and more structure in the ﬁnish. However, the blend has to have Dena’s approval. When asked about the blending process, Ernie is quick to point out, “She has veto power.” This wine completes the “Hers and His” effort. - 91 points Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar, July/August 2010

The Reserve happens when we work together. The blend of our two favorite barrels, again, earns the top score of the vintage. - 93 points Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar, July/August 2010

All of our Pinot Noirs are 100% estate grown fruit. Our winemaking style is traditional, with indigenous yeast and whole cluster fermentations. We cellar our wines for 12-18 months in French Oak. Bottled unfined & unfiltered. “Pretty fruit, nice acid.” ®

To learn about Amalie Robert Estate, reserve your tasting appointment, or join the a-list, please visit our website: WWW.AMALIEROBERT.COM

Arbor Crest Wine Cellars

2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, Stillwater Creek Vineyard, Columbia Valley Sharp scents of cedar combine with spice and plums on the forceful nose. Tight flavors of cassis and prune are forward and satisfying, but are backed by substantial tannins and grip. At first the wine seems short on the mid-palate, but successive sips reveal the complexity of mocha and earth notes, along with an aromatic sense of lavender. A gentle leafiness shows up on the finish. Still youthful and tightly wound, this is a good candidate for cellaring 2–4 years. (1,842 cases made.) $20

Hogue Cellars

2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, Wahluke Slope Expansive aromas of plum, pepper, vanilla, and toast are complex and satisfying. In the mouth, densely packed flavors of blackberry, plum, and cassis swirl across the tongue. Background notes of clove, toast, and a gentle sense of raspberry leaf add layers of interest. Well-balanced acidity gives lightness on the palate, yet fine-grained tannins and the power of the fruit add gravitas. This complex Cabernet would bear additional aging, but could be enjoyed with slow-cooked short ribs tonight. (2,095 cases made.) $30

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Northwest Palate | September/October 2010

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Nelms Road

2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, Washington

Caring for the land…

creating extraordinary wines.

BENTON-LANE Family Owned Estate Grown Sustainably Farmed

Laid-back aromas of dark fruits, earth, and toast are weighty, but a whiff of rose blossom lightens the nose. Dense in the mouth, with a thick texture, the flavors of cassis and black cherry fruit are potent on the palate, with herbal notes lurking in the background. The emollient mouthfeel and concentration of flavor give this wine plenty of appeal. Serve with cold roast beef. (4,047 cases made.) $20

Pend d’Oreille

2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, Meyer Reserve, Lawrence Vineyard, Washington

WOOD WARD CANY ON WOODW CANYON tasting room open daily ALSO OFFERING PRIVATE TASTINGS BY APPOINTMENT

11920 W. Hwy 12, Lowden www.woodwardcanyon.com 509-525-4129

EXCLUSIVE MENUS EXPERT PAIRINGS EASY SHOPPING LISTS

April up to Christmas: Sunday–Thursday: 11am to 5pm Friday–Saturday: 11am to 6pm January–March: Monday–Friday: 11am to 5pm

23924 Territorial Hwy. Monroe, Oregon 20 miles north of Eugene

www.benton-lane.com 541-847-5792

join us! IndulgeWe in our new 2009our releases are two celebrating

One Year anniversary our Runaway Red PinotinNoir new winery space nestled in & Willamette Valley Pinot Noir! the heart of the Eola Hills!

“...Passion for top quality Riesling and Pinot Noir...” – Cole Danehower Wine Editor, Northwest Palate

NEW HOURS!

LEARN MORE BY VISITING CORK ANDFORKMOBILE.COM

Open Day Weekend Open Labor every weekend through Saturday Sunday Labor Day&11am to 4pm 12–5pm and by

appointment Monday-Friday

Can’t make it? Give us a call We look forward to seeing you!! and visit another time!

We forward to seeing you! 9360look SE Eola Hills Road - Amity, Oregon - 503.435.1278 -

PRODUCER OF THE 2009 #1 WINE OF THE YEAR* © 2010 Columbia Crest Winery, Paterson, WA 99345 *The Columbia Crest 2005 Reserve Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon was named #1 Wine of the Year for 2009 by Wine Spectator magazine.

September/October 2010 | Northwest Palate

www.brookswines.com 9360 SE Eola Hills Road - Amity, Oregon

- 503.435.1278 -

www.brookswines.com

Weighty and earthy aromas of black fruits accented by a sense of garden soil and leaves comprise the rich nose. Sweet and round on the palate, full flavors of black cherry, currants, and plum are concentrated and layered with tones of vanilla, mocha, earth, and minerals. The tannin structure is well controlled and the mouthfeel is pliant and weighty. The wine finishes with a flourish of dark fruit flavors. A big and intense wine that pairs well with a rare Chateaubriand. (97 cases made.) $35

Woodward Canyon

2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, Artist Series #16, Washington Dusty scents of dark fruit and earth are closed at first, but open into notes of toast, violets, and tar. Remarkably svelte and luxurious in the mouth, flavors of cassis and raspberry wash across the tongue, followed by nuances of rose blossoms, mocha, toast, and dried mint. Beautifully balanced, with plenty of fine-grained tannins and good acidity, the flavors are fully framed by the firm structure. This is a Cabernet that could easily age a further 5–8 years, and though it is young now, would be a pleasing accompaniment to grilled lamb. (1,934 cases made.) $49

Syrah

Syrah has become one of the most popular wine grape varieties in the region. First planted in Washington in the 1980s, it ranges from Southern Oregon to the Okanagan Valley today, and even includes the Gulf Islands of B.C. Like most classic varieties, Syrah can be made in many different styles. While there has been a trend in recent years toward excessive extraction and oak aging, it now seems that winemakers are becoming more moderate in their approach and allowing the wine to better reflect the terroir of its location.

Cave B

2008 Syrah, Cave B Vineyards, Columbia Valley Expansive spicy aromas of plum and earth are mouthwatering in the nose, while rich and sweet plum fruit is forward and tasty on the tongue. Tones of forest floor and barrel oak provide a savory foundation upon which www.nwpalate.com

â&#x201E;˘

the bright plum and raspberry fruit rests. Good acidity and balanced fine-grained tannins give good grip and weight, while the finish offers plenty of dry and tart red fruitiness. Reasonably balanced on a relatively light frame, this is a great wine for pairing with game birds like grilled grouse or pheasant. (288 cases made.) $25

Glen Fiona

2006 Syrah, Basket Press Reserve, Columbia Valley Black plum color leads to a nose rich with white chocolate and black pepper aromas surrounding a core of dark fruit. Supple flavors of bright cherry and plum are lush on the attack, but are quickly followed by spicy tones of basil and toast. Tannins show up quickly, but add a frame to the fruit rather than overpower it. Appealingly lean thanks to good acidity and structure, the fruit has an uplifting feel. A bright and satisfying Syrah that would pair surprisingly well with barbecued chicken. (371 cases made.) $25

Kestrel

2007 Syrah, Co-Fermented Estate, Winemaker Select, Yakima Valley Dusty scents of plum and dried herbs are potent and savory, but additional swirling to uncovers pleasing floral tones of violets. On the palate, a satiny mouthfeel carries dense flavors of plum and blackberry, with noticeable violet accents. There is also a clear underpinning of forest floor that adds weight to the overall lighter tone of this wine. A Syrah of some elegance, whose well-balanced nature makes it a perfect pairing for barbecued ribs. (277 cases made.) $40

Mission Hill

Honor Roll Tour & Tasting A one-of-a-kind private tasting in the cellar of the historic Frenchtown Schoolhouse.

Optimum wine country experienceâ&#x20AC;Ś

Every Friday 2â&#x20AC;&#x201C;3pm RSVP required

For info: www.lecole.com/tastingroom.php

â&#x20AC;&#x201C;â&#x20AC;&#x201C;â&#x20AC;&#x201C;â&#x20AC;&#x201C;â&#x20AC;&#x201C;â&#x20AC;&#x201C;â&#x20AC;&#x201C;â&#x20AC;&#x201C;â&#x20AC;&#x201C;â&#x20AC;&#x201C;â&#x20AC;&#x201C;â&#x20AC;&#x201C;â&#x20AC;&#x201C;â&#x20AC;&#x201C;â&#x20AC;&#x201C;â&#x20AC;&#x201C;â&#x20AC;&#x201C;â&#x20AC;&#x201C;â&#x20AC;&#x201C;â&#x20AC;&#x201C;â&#x20AC;&#x201C;â&#x20AC;&#x201C;â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Open Daily 10am to 5pm

13 miles west of Walla Walla on Hwy 12 ,OWDEN 3CHOOL 2OAD s ,OWDEN 7ASHINGTON

celebrating 20 years Noonâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;5pm daily through October

www.kramerwine.com

2007 Syrah, Select Lot Collection, Okanagan Valley VQA Fragrant violet, blueberry, and black cherry delight the nose. The earthy, dried herb nuances add complexity and food-friendliness. The French/American oak treatment imparts spiciness and dark chocolate. Impeccably balanced acidity and tannins mean itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ready now for grilled meats. $37CDN

Sinclair Estate Vineyards

2007 Syrah, Columbia Valley Deep purple color introduces a subdued nose of black pepper, plum, and an interesting high-toned note of raspberry. Plush on the palate, plum and blackberry are laid on the tongue with a velvety flourish. Notes of strawberry and cherry evolve as the wine is sipped, with a gentle touch of cola. Good acidity frames the flavors and keeps the wine feeling pleasingly lean. The tannin structure is there, but well-controlled. There is a vibrancy to the finish. An excellent choice to pair with moussaka. (75 cases made.) $35

Twisted Tree

2008 Syrah, Okanagan Valley VQA Aromas of black fruits, vanilla, and chocolate punch you in the nose. Then, the rich, intensely fruity and spicy palate warms you up. While the fruit finishes short, its toasty spiciness lingers long. Needs taming by barbecued meats. (492 cases made.) $25CDN

www.nwpalate.com

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Red Blends

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Chateau Ste. Michelle offers a variety of tasting experiences call or visit us at ste-michelle.com for additional information. During the summer, the winery is home to a popular concert series.

Experience Fall in our Spectacular Vineyards! Our newest release

2007

Estate Cuvée Pinot Noir

Stop by and taste for yourself! Open Friday-Sunday 11am–5pm

11400 SE Westland Lane, Dayton, OR

503.868.7259 www.methvenfamilyvineyards.com

Red blends are the unsung heroes of the Pacific Northwest. Too many consumers, enchanted by the familiar names of varietal wines, pass up the excellent range of blended wines on offer by the region’s wineries. Blends demonstrate the expert winemaker’s best efforts to capture the essence of a vintage, and often deliver more grace and complexity than the sometimes single-note flavors of an individual variety. Don’t shy away from unfamiliar proprietary names, rather, explore the range of creative expression that blends deliver—they can be among the most satisfying wines produced anywhere in the Northwest.

Airfield Estates

2008 Red Wine, Aviator, Yakima Valley Full scents of plummy fruit, earth, and dried autumn leaves are tinged with touches of tobacco and minerals. Lean and clean flavors of blackberry, black raspberry, and cherry fruit are ringed with nuances of vanilla and cola, as well as a soft background of toast and earth. The fruit is very satisfying and uplifting thanks to vivacious acidity, and the tannin structure is gentle. The finish has a slight sourness that accentuates the high-toned fruit. Light in body for such a complex blend. Serve with flame-broiled New York strip steak. (50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, 10% Petit Verdot, 5% Malbec; 467 cases made.) $30

Airfield Estates

2008 Red Wine, Bombshell Red, Vineyard Salute, Yakima Valley Blackberry scents are

Cliff Creek Cellars OPEN AT SAMS VALLEY VINEYARD Saturdays and Sundays 12–5pm 1019 McDonough Rd. Gold Hill OR 541-855-9819 CARLTON TASTING ROOM Open 7 Days a Week 12–5pm 258 N. Kutch St., Carlton, OR www.cliffcreek.com From our vineyard to your table…

subtle behind more assertive notes of oak and toast on the subdued nose. Sweet blackberry fruit is bounded by dried herb and mineral notes, with hints of dusty earth and black pepper. Good balance of acidity, laid-back tannins, and a persistent finish give this wine an appealing, if a little disjointed, character. Pair with carnitas. (2,142 cases made.) $16

Black Hills

2008 Nota Bene, Okanagan Valley The 10th vintage of this Okanagan icon continues with its complex savory, earth-toned character. Cedar, red berries, and dried herbs lead on the nose, while red cherry, tobacco, and coffee follow on the palate. Cassis and licorice linger on the finish. Cellar 2–5 years to enhance complexity and elegance. (48% Cabernet Sauvignon, 41% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc; 4,350 cases made.) $60CDN

stellar

selection

Enjoy!!!

September/October 2010 | Northwest Palate

www.nwpalate.com

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Chateau Ste. Michelle

2007 Red Wine, “CSM” Red, Wahluke Slope Sumptuously dark purple color. Intriguing nose offers a complex melange of rose petals, strawberry and cherry fruits, and heavy accents of mineral-laden earth, graphite, and toast. On the palate, concentrated raspberry and blackberry flavors are forward and substantial, with plenty of backing notes of dried herb and leaf, along with minerals and autumn leaves. There is plenty of tannin structure, but it is extremely fine and plush, making the mouthfeel generous and weighty at the same time. This is a complex and delicious blend with the backbone to age a further 3–5 years. (51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42% Syrah, 7% Malbec; 597 cases made, Limited Release) $30

Kestrel

2005 Red Wine, Raptor Red, Signature Edition, Yakima Valley Dense reddish-purple color leads to aromas of crushed red fruits with accents of mint, toast, and barrel char. Big on the palate, the ample cherry and blackberry fruit flavors are matched by immediately apparent tannin structure, giving the wine a sense of scale. Additional layers of dried herbs, a touch of cinnamon and anise, and even a hint of molasses give the wine complexity. The finish is admirable. Though there are already a few years of bottle age, this is a wine that could still stand up to more. Cellar a further 2–3 years to soften its exuberance. (156 cases made.) $60

Kestrel

2006 CABERNET SAUVIGNON

“92 Points Wine Spectator”

Classic Approachable Wines

2005 Red Wine, Tribute Red, Special Edition, Yakima Valley Richly layered aromas of crushed plums, cigar box spices, fresh earth, and a subtle overlay of vanilla, are pleasing in the nose. Immediately fruity on the palate, polished flavors of boysenberries and blackberries have a lean and elegant character that gives the wine an uplifting appeal. Good acidity adds verve, while subtle and soft tannins only show up on the lingering finish. Well-crafted and satisfying, the fruit in this wine would pair with the meaty richness of an osso bucco. (101 cases made.) $50

Lalayee

Bold Northwest Red Wines Mediterranean-Inspired Cuisine

Tasting Room Open Daily, 11am-5pm

2007 Red Wine, Walla Walla Valley Substantial aromas of oak-accented cassis, plum, black pepper, and earth are full and satisfying. Velvety in texture and focused in character, the wine delivers plenty of plush blackberry fruit with notes of cassis, molasses, vanilla, dried sage, and black pepper. There is a pleasing interplay between the concentrated fruit and sweet spice, and the surrounding tones of more savory herbs. Well-balanced with good acidity and soft tannins, this blend offers an elegant, medium-bodied accompaniment to coq au vin. (51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 49% Merlot; 140 cases made.) $35

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Friday & Saturday: Enoteca Lunch and Chef ’s Supper

Sunday: Wine Country Brunch

See website for menus 750 W. Lincoln ó Carlton, OR www.CanasFeastWinery.com (503) 852-0002

Wherever your feast may be, we are committed to crafting quality wines that enhance the food, friendship and celebration at your table! Northwest Palate | September/October 2010

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Martin-Scott

2007 Red Wine, Raven Ridge Red, Columbia Valley Forward smells of graphite and earth overwhelm the dark fruit notes on the assertive nose. Sweet cherry and red plum flavors pour across the palate with a pleasing intensity, while background tones of vanilla and anise add depth. There is ample structure, but the tannin and rather hot alcohol don’t interfere measurably with the purity of the fruit. This is a big and soft-feeling wine whose satisfaction comes from the bright fruit. Pair with char-grilled lamb burgers. (241 cases made.) $21

Special Wine Package!

Book a 2 night stay at the inn during September and October at 15% off regular rates and take home a mixed ½ case of wine

Pepper Bridge

Coolest, Cool Climate Varietals

Vineyard & Winery Open for visitors from 11am-5pm daily

www.youngberghill.com www.youngberghill.com/blog Youngberg Hill on

and

345 First Street • Elkton, OR Scenic HWY 38 to the Central Oregon Coast brandborgwine.com

“2009 Washington Winery of the Year” Wine Press Northwest

“Best destination winery”

Seattle Magazine

2007 Red Wines, Seven Hills Vineyard, Walla Walla Valley Big and forward aromas of dark cherry and plum fruit also carry hints of mint, rose, and earth for a complex and inviting nose. On the palate a velvety texture delivers plush flavors of blackberry, and black cherry fruit, a touch of licorice and spice, plus notes of mocha and earth. There is an appealing combination of dry dust and baking spice that helps frame the fruit center. Well balanced with good acidity and plenty of fine-grained and controlled tannins. This is a wine with a long future; cellar for 3-5 years. (52% Merlot, 39% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Cabernet Franc; 548 cases made.) $55

2nd Crossing

2008 Long Creek Red, Okanagan Valley VQA Teasing whiffs of red berries and fresh herbs please the nose. The lively, mediumbodied palate gushes with black cherry and tangy blackberry, supported by well-integrated tannins. Cedar notes persist on the dry finish. Well suited for pastas with meat and tomato sauce. $18CDN

Sinclair Estate Vineyards

2007 Red WIne, Pentatonic, Columbia Valley Intense, dense purple color leads to

Join us for our Labor Day Weekend Celebration September 4 - 6, noon - 5pm, for tapas, live music, salsa dancing, and great wine. $10 Entry, $5 tapas plate Come taste our nationally acclaimed wines and enjoy the stunning views on our extensive arbor.

2010 Concert Season!

July 10 July 17 July 31 August 7 August 28

Train Lyle Lovett Jackson Browne Natalie Merchant Earth, Wind & Fire

www.maryhillwinery.com

1-877-MARYHILL

9774 Hwy. 14 Goldendale, WA

September/October 2010 | Northwest Palate

penetrating aromas of plum and cassis with graphite and earth undertones. Full cassis and blackberry fruit is forward and rich on the palate with notes of chocolate, toast, and sage supplying an appealing sense of complexity. Wellbalanced and with a lighter body, the acidity gives a fresh feel while very controlled tannins only really become apparent on the lengthy finish. A well-made blend—not quite Bordeaux in style— perfect for pairing with aged prime rib. (54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 8% Malbec, 8% Syrah; 75 cases made.) $50

Twisted Tree

open daily for wine tasting 11am - 5pm 1754 Best Rd NW, Salem, OR 97304 503-588-1763 www.cubanisimovineyards.com Check us out on facebook and twitter

2008 Six Vines, Okanagan Valley VQA This six-varietal Bordeaux-based blend exudes black fruit with complex spice. Sweet black plum, intense cassis, and dark chocolate dominate the full-bodied palate. Plush tannins and mocha resonate on the long, smooth finish. Pair with a hearty beef stew. (30% Malbec, 25% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Petit Verdot, 10% Carmenère, 5% Cabernet Franc; 916 cases made.) $25CDN

www.nwpalate.com

Market Basket

A REGIONAL GUIDE TO FOOD, WINE, AND TRAVEL RELATED BUSINESSES

THE 2010

The 3rd Annual Jellyfish Jubilee—A Celebration of Food and Wine—will fill the Oregon Coast Aquarium with the aromas, tastes and sounds of exceptional Northwest cuisine, wines, music and a silent auction benefitting the Aquarium’s exhibits and education programs.

Saturday

September 25 6-9 pm

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Northwest Palate | September/October 2010

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Bergström Wines OR 2008 Chardonnay, Sigrid $78

pick ofthe palate Bergström Estate Vineyards / Photos courtesy Bergström wines

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How do you describe such a succulent wine as this? Its polish, complexity, and balance are so delicate, yet somehow also dynamic, that it is unusually difficult to describe. But I’ll try. Refined aromas of dried flower blossoms and citrus peel are at first subtle, but gather force with time in the glass, opening into an alluring nose full of fruit and flowers, with a mere touch of toast. Lithe and graceful on the palate, the flavors of white peach and lemon-lime nevertheless have real force, and swell in complexity as the wine sloshes in the mouth. Notes of mineral-laden apple and lilac emerge, as well as a hint of pear. The sense of substance and weight on the tongue is finely

September/October 2010 | Northwest Palate

balanced by the energizing quality of uplifting acidity, making this wine seem at once full and rich, yet structured and racy. The finish lingers long. This is what Chardonnay should be all about. So why don’t we see more Chardonnays of this caliber in the Northwest? It’s expensive to make, yes—winemaker Josh Bergström selected only 10 barrels out of 110 for this bottling—but perhaps more importantly it is of a style that many consumers aren’t accustomed to. Unlike the two most familiar Northwest Chardonnay modes, Sigrid is neither full of oak (though it was fermented in 40% new French oak), nor boisterously fruity in the manner of no-oak, no-ML wines. Rather, this is a sophisticated organoleptic experience with layers of sensation that demands attention and consideration—the way great white Burgundy does. Bergström burst onto the Northwest wine scene in 1999 with some head-turning Pinot Noir wines that were big, bold, and impressive. A meticulous biodynamic farmer of his own vines, Bergström is picky about his purchased fruit, sourcing grapes from some of Oregon’s most prestigious sources. While Pinot remains the

backbone of Bergström’s wines, he has also added over the years smaller production runs of Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, and of course, Chardonnay. It is interesting to note that for a winemaker so known for in-yourface reds, his whites are made with restraint and elegance, yet still maintaining fruit focus and intensity. But $78 for an Oregon Chardonnay? Expensive, yes, but worth the money? Who’s to say the wine isn’t worth the price? There are plenty of pretty Northwest Chardonnays available at considerably less cost than the Bergström Sigrid wine, but I have to admit that only once have I tasted a Northwest Chardonnay that is in the same class as this wine—and that was a nearly 30-year-old Eyrie Vineyards Chardonnay (so much for the myth that Northwest Chardonnay doesn’t age). The Bergström 2008 Sigrid Chardonnay is a true classic, regardless of price, and one that should age wonderfully—I wonder what it will be like in 30 years? —Cole Danehower

www.nwpalate.com

SHELTER, FOOD, WINE… GPPE-!TIFMUFS-!XJOFÊ!

The Essentials, Elevated Uif!Fttfoujbmt-!Fmfwbufe Discover Dundee’s first elegant boutique hotel and gourmet marketplace in the heart of Oregon wine Ejtdpwfs!EvoeffÖt!ß!stu!fmfhbou!cpvujrvf!ipufm!boe!hpvsnfu! country, just 45 minutes from Portland. nbslfuqmbdf!jo!uif!ifbsu!pg!Psfhpo!xjof!dpvousz-!kvtu!56!njovuft! The Inn at Red Hills is a must-stop to make your gspn!Qpsumboe/!Uif!Joo!bu!Sfe!Ijmmt!jt!b!nvtu.tupq!up!nblf!zpvs! wine tour a luxurious and unforgettable adventure.

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SHELTER Why hurry back to town? Make a night

of it and book a room at The Inn at Red Hills, Oregon wine country’s first full-service boutique hotel. The inn boasts 20 !Jodsfejcmf!cjuft!lffq!uif!xfmm.usbwfmfe!ubtufs!npuj. unique rooms with different layouts, sizes, and views. All wbufe/!Bu!Gbsn!up!Gpsl-!uif!jooÖt!po.tjuf!hpvsnfu!dbg -!nbslfu-! feature rich fabrics, warm earth-tone colors, Select Comfort boe!ß!of.ejojoh!sftubvsbou-!wjtjupst!dbo!qjdl!vq!hpvsnfu!gppe! Sleep Number beds and spacious glass showers.

GPPE

up!hp!ps!tjnqmz!fokpz!b!nfbm!jo!uif!dp{z!sftubvsbou!ps!dpvsuzbse/! Nfovt!bsf!qsfqbsfe!gsfti!ebjmz-!xjui!johsfejfout!mpdbmmz!tpvsdfe! gspn!xjuijo!311!njmft!pg!Evoeff/!Nvdi!pg!uif!tfbtpobm!gsvju! FOOD Incredible bites keep the well-traveled taster dpnft!gspn!uif!jooÖt!pxo!gbsn/ Fall Rates starting at $99 per night, every night.

motivated. At Farm to Fork, the inn’s on-site gourmet café, market, and fi ne-dining restaurant, visitors can pick up gourmet food to!Xiz!ivssz!cbdl!up!upxo@!Nblf!b!ojhiu!pg!ju! go or simply enjoy a meal in the cozy restaurant or courtyard. Menus are prepared fresh daily, with boe!cppl!b!sppn!bu!Uif!Joo!bu!Sfe!Ijmmt-!Psfhpo!xjof!dpvo. ingredients locally sourced from within 200 miles of Dundee. uszÖt!ß!stu!gvmm.tfswjdf!cpvujrvf!ipufm/!Uif!joo!cpbtut!31!vojrvf! Much of the seasonal fruit comes from the inn’s own farm. sppnt!xjui!ejggfsfou!mbzpvut-!tj{ft-!boe!wjfxt/!Bmm!gfbuvsf!sjdi!

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gbcsjdt-!xbsn!fbsui.upof!dpmpst-!Tfmfdu!Dpngpsu!Tmffq!Ovncfs! Harvest Celebration Dinner Saturday October 9th in support of SALUD. Visit our website for details. cfet!boe!tqbdjpvt!hmbtt!tipxfst/

WINE XJOF

Relax in the easy comfort of Press Wine Bar & !Sfmby!jo!uif!fbtz!dpngpsu!pg!Qsftt!Xjof!Cbs!'!Cpuumf! Bottle Shop after a day at the vineyards. Enjoy wines of Tipq!bgufs!b!ebz!bu!uif!wjofzbset/!Fokpz!xjoft!pg!pvutuboejoh! outstanding character and quality while reviewing your dibsbdufs!boe!rvbmjuz!xijmf!sfwjfxjoh!zpvs!ubtujoh!opuft!jo!gspou! tasting notes in front of the cozy fireplace. No need to look pg!uif!dp{z!ß !sfqmbdf/!Op!offe!up!mppl!gvsuifs!bß !fmeÊ!qvsdibtf! further afield… purchase bottles from your favorite wineries, cpuumft!gspn!zpvs!gbwpsjuf!xjofsjft-!boe!Qsftt!xjmm!tijq!uifn! and Press will ship them home for your convenience.

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Winemakers Showcase Saturday & Sunday November 27 & 28 in our Barrel Room. Visit our website for details.

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SPECIAL EVENTS Think of the inn as your dpsqpsbuf!ps!qfstpobm!ipnf!bxbz!gspn!ipnf/!Uif!fyrvjtjuf!

corporate or personal home away from home. The exquisite fwfou!sppn!jt!bwbjmbcmf!gps!b!wbsjfuz!pg!po.tjuf!nffujoh!qbdlbhft-! event room is available for a variety of on-site meeting ps!ifbe!pgg.tjuf!up!uif!qsjwbuf!wjofzbse!ipnf/!Uif!joo!dbo! packages, or head off-site to the private vineyard home. The bddpnnpebuf!tqfdjbm!pddbtjpot-!mvodifpot-!ejoofst-!sfusfbut-! inn can accommodate special occasions, luncheons, dinners, boe!sfvojpotÒ!boe!zpvs!hvftut!xjmm!bqqsfdjbuf!uif!sftugvm!ftdbqf! retreats, and reunions— and your guests will appreciate the gspn!uif!djuz/!Uif!tubgg!xjmm!dvtupnj{f!b!upvs!pg!mpdbm!xjofsjft! restful escape from the city. The staff will customize a tour of bu!zpvs!sfrvftu!boe!xfmdpnf!zpv!cbdl!ipnf!bu!uif!joo!mbufs! local wineries at your request and welcome you back home at

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the inn later that afternoon.

2521!O/!Ixz!::X-!Evoeff-!Psfhpo!:8226 1410 N. Hwy 99W, Dundee, Oregon 97115 xxx/joobusfeijmmt/dpn www.innatredhills.com Joo;!614.649.8777 Inn: 503-538-7666 Gbsn!up!Gpsl;!614.649.8:81! Farm to Fork: 503-538-7970 Qsftt-!B!Xjof!Cbs;!614.649.8:9: Press, A Wine Bar: 503-538-7989