THE SQUIRE SHOP IS RARING TO GO ONCE AGAIN.

HYDRO

POWER

Fueled by a team of racing devotees and dedicated volunteers, Kent’s Hydroplane & Raceboat Museum is running at full tilt with the reveal of the restored 1979 Squire Shop hydro at this month’s Seafair.

HYDRO

POWER

Archive Feature Photography Kindly Provided By The Hydroplane & Raceboat Museum

By Kate Calamusa

At many museums, the artifacts, art works, and other curiosities are displayed at arm’s length, preserved and protected in a glass case only for viewing. Not so at the Hydroplane & Raceboat Museum in Kent. Each and every hydroplane on display within the 12,000-square-foot space has been lovingly and painstakingly restored to run at its full, heart throbbing, adrenaline pumping potential of 150-200 miles per hour.

AFTER BEING REBUILT FOR THE ‘78 SEASON (SEE TOP LEFT), THE SQUIRE SHOP LOOMED LARGE IN THE NORTHWEST FOR DECADES.

AT RIGHT: THE LEGENDARY BILL MUNCEY WAVES THE SQUIRE SHOP FLAG IN HONOR OF BOB STILES’ SPONSORSHIP OF THE 1978 SEAFAIR RACES.

“Our mission is to celebrate, preserve, and honor the history of professional powerboat racing,” explains longtime executive director David Williams. “And if they just look at one, static in a museum, people don’t really get a sense of what a powerboat really is and how it works. But, to see it in action, flying across the water in motion, you’ll get goose bumps. You’ll understand the raw emotional power. That’s why we run our boats anywhere and everywhere they’ll let us.” Since its inception in 1983, the museum has restored dozens of hydroplanes in its boat shop, including seven of the most famous Gold Cup and Harmsworth winners dating back almost seven decades. They loom large in racing lore: There’s the Miss America VIII (1929 and ‘31 Harmsworth winner); Slo-mo-shun IV (1950, ‘52, and ‘53 Gold Cup winner); Slo-mo-shun V (1951 and ‘54 Gold Cup winner); a Hawaii Kai III replica (1958 Gold Cup winner); Miss Thriftway (1961 and ‘62 Gold Cup winner); the legendary Green Dragon Miss Bardahl; and the 1967 Miss Budweiser.

Now, after an extensive, five-year-long restoration effort, the museum is set to reveal and re-christen another classic: The 1979 Squire Shop Unlimited Hydroplane. Originally designed by Dave Knowlen and built by Norm Berg, this was the boat that carried renowned local driver Lee Edward “Chip” Hanauer to his very first Unlimited victory in ‘79. In a full circle moment, the 68-year-old Hanauer plans to climb back in the cockpit once again as Squire Shop runs on Lake Washington at this month’s Seafair—another Seattle institution making a triumphant return after a pandemic-induced hiatus. The Squire Shop name itself smacks of Seattle nostalgia. She’s named for a much beloved, locally established men’s clothing store, the sort of 1970s shop that shelled out Levi’s and bell-bottoms, leather jackets, and local racing paraphernalia. It also speaks to an era when hydros reigned supreme in the Emerald City. Before the Kraken, Sounders, Mariners and even the Seahawks arrived, hydro racing was the sport in town. Imagine the roar of the mammoth engines, the spray rocketing towards the blue skies as racers careened around a hairpin turn,

JOHN WATKINS, SEEN HERE AT LEFT WORKING ON THE ORIGINAL BUILD OF THE BOAT, RETURNED TO SUPERVISE THE RECENT RESTORATION.

the tourists and locals alike that flocked to every bit of spit of shoreline on Lake Washington to watch—it was all intrinsically tied to the Emerald City’s identity. “This boat is so emblematic of the city itself,” reflects Hanauer. “It is so much a part of the history and legacy of the city; you can’t separate out Seattle from its ties to racing and boating and maritime. It’s the very fabric of who we are.” As the moniker might suggest, the boat was originally owned by the clothing store’s popular proprietor, Bob Stiles. Stiles hired Hanauer to drive the hydro in 1978 after driver Jerry Bangs tragically died in an accident during the 1977 edition of Seafair and the boat had to be rebuilt. Hanuer stayed at the helm through the 1981 season, moving on to drive for other teams in what would be a decorated 20-year career on the water. But he still speaks highly and warmly of the man who gave him his shot. “He loved Seattle, and he loved Seafair,” Hanauer recalls. “So much so that one year [in 1978], he not only sponsored a boat, but stepped up to sponsor the entire race because it wasn’t going to happen due to lack of funds. Squire Shop didn’t make the final heat, but another driver, the renowned Bill Muncey and his team, all wore Squire Shop jackets as a tribute in that last race. I don’t think it’s an overstatement to say he saved Seafair.”

Squire Shop continued to race all the way until 2002 under a variety of owners and other names. (Her aliases included Miss Kyyx, Miss CKLW, Miss Raben Tire, Rampage III, Miss BECO, and Oh Boy! Oberto.) From there, she passed hands several times and fell off the radar until a racing fan by the name of Brad Haskin stumbled on a sales listing on eBay for the Squire in 2012. He alerted a fellow fan and Seattle friend Gary Laws, who purchased her and then later donated the hull to the museum for restoration. There wasn’t much of a hull left. The wood frame was deteriorated and dilapidated, the electrical was shot, and pretty much every fitting, hose, and bracket from tip to tail needed to be replaced. At the museum, Williams knew he needed someone with expertise to lead the herculean project. He needed John Watkins. A former hydro racer himself, Watkins had worked for Norm Berg in 1978 and ‘79 and had been one the original builders of Squire Shop. A mutual friend knew of his involvement then and recommended the museum ask him to lend his expertise as a project supervisor. Recently retired from a long career at Boeing, Watkins was intrigued by the restoration effort, and the potential for a retirement project. “I remember thinking I had this big shop at home that was just going to go to waste now that I was retired. Guess I needn’t have worried, the Squire Shop was just waiting for me,” he says, with a chuckle, reflecting on how the couple-of-days-a-week commitment became a five-year-long journey. It turned out there was little left to save outside of a few scraps and the crew began to rebuild the Squire in 2016. Delays were inevitable, with the time it took to finagle fixes, track down parts (including dredging up an original cowling from the bottom of Lake Washington), and make extensive repairs, plus there was an almost year-and-half delay when she just sat in the shuttered shop during the Covid shutdowns. They ticked off the milestones though, one by one: There was the day they slid the framing on. Then, the decks went on. Watkins likens unveiling the paint job to that of Christmas morning anticipation. “You peel off all the tape and suddenly instead of a plain white boat, there emerges that bright signature red hull. And I thought, ‘Oh, there’s the Squire Shop.’” It was the very definition of a labor of love. Outside of Williams and a few other employees who help with fundraising efforts, the museum and the boat shop are staffed entirely by volunteers. Watkins acted both as supervisor and mentor, passing along his extensive knowledge to the volunteer crew members and helping them to gain new skills as they make repairs.

THE HYDRO, AND HANAUER, WERE BOTH FREQUENTLY SIGHTED ABOUT TOWN DURING THEIR HEYDAYS.

THE SQUIRE BEING LOWERED INTO LAKE WASHINGTON (PHOTO BY JIM CLARK PHOTO); AND, RUNNING DURING A MAY 2022 TRIAL (PHOTO BY GLEASON RACE PHOTOGRAPHY).

“Some people are former racers or longtime fans or some are entirely new to the sport and just want to learn,” says Watkins. “But the educational piece of the restoration is really what makes it distinct.” He points to the dedication among the team in making this effort, and every other project at the museum, a success: “We literally have guys who come in twice a week to sweep and prep the shop. And they do it to be a part of the team, to get to wear a crew shirt come race day. They do it because they love it.” Hanauer agrees. When he would swing by the museum to check on the repairs, he was awed by the convivial atmosphere in the shop: “In two words, I think it is rare and it is unique. The museum is a wonderful place that is driven by passion. In a world where sometimes the sense of community seems lost, it is alive and well here. The people care about each other, they have a common bond, and they work extremely hard.” Beyond the museum, Squire Shop gained an online following after Laws, who donated the Squire Shop remains, created both a blog and a Facebook page to track the progress. Many fans logged on to share memories of her glory days, others asked questions of the experts, and still others came forward to donate their own memorabilia and even scraps from older iterations. Finally, everyone circled May 24, 2022, on their calendars as the eagerly anticipated and long awaited date that the completed Squire Shop would take to the water once again for a test run on Lake Washington. That day, they put her through her paces, made notes on some adjustments, and now—finally—she’s ready to return to racing after her Seafair christening on August 5. And while much of her fabrication is shiny and new, Watkins and the team have made sure to preserve her heart and history, too. They took every salvageable scrap of original wood they could find and created plaques that are now screwed into the interior frame of the hull. They are stamped with the names of the principal people involved in her story: the original designer; the first build team; the drivers who drove her to fame; and John Watkins, who had a hand in building her not once, but twice. “Now it’s like everyone from Squire Shop’s backstory is out running alongside us in the future, too,” he says. The May run drew in curious onlookers as well as some new fans garnered from the online buzz who came out to see what the sport was all about. This fact encourages Hanauer, who hopes this year’s Seafair will help ignite a fire in a new generation of race fans. “My heart is warmed by the sense of camaraderie, of shared passion I’ve witnessed among this museum community. But I think we need to help newcomers understand the role that racing and Seafair play, and everything that maritime means to this city. Seafair can act as a catalyst to draw people in. Once they see it, they’ll want to experience for themselves, I think,” he muses. But, for many the project has simply fanned a flame that never died out. “It’s been a dream for a lot of us for a really long time to see this come to fruition,” concludes Williams. “I can’t say enough about the team that made it happen. They did it for the love of the sport and for the chance to stand on the lakeshore with their kid at Seafair and proudly say: ‘Yeah, I built that.’”

>> See the Squire Shop hydro in person at her August 5th christening at Seafair, or make plans to visit the Hydroplane & Raceboat Museum; for details and further information, go to: thunderboats.ning.com. And, for a more extensive look at the restoration project, visit: 79squireshop.weebly.com.

grill&Pack the provisions, hop in the launch, and make way for the beach: Inspired by the classic Argentinian asado, James O. Fraioli crafts a chargrilled feast fit for sharing around the bonfire or barbecue. By James O. Fraioli Recipe Photography by Erika Shlick

&chill 57

Much like boating in the Northwest, cruising along the Paraná Delta—a stunning water maze containing over one thousand tiny islands located just outside of Buenos Aires, Argentina—is an experience like none other. With rivers for roads, it’s the perfect escape from the madness of the big city.

While navigating one of the many coffee-colored tributaries, I discover the main waterfront of Tigre and the buzz of the small town entices me to stop. Securing the lines to a wobbly wooden dock, I set foot for the Promenade, home to historic rowing clubs started by immigrants from England, Italy, and Spain that are still unique and vast. The neighboring restaurants, which vary in vibes from classy to laid back, draws me in further. Energy pulsates through every cobble-stoned crevice and the rich, smoky aromas of succulent meats roasting on open grills seduce me. It’s here where I realize what it means to be fully satiated What memory lingers most—aside from the juicy steaks, perfectly charred vegetables, and wonderfully decanted Argentine wine—is the true indulgence of a delicious meal. Dining with Argentinians is all about relaxation and eating family-style. The meals are loud, yet tranquil. Argentine hospitality means wherever you are, you are welcome; you are always invited to a seat at the table. Back home in the Northwest, I emulate—as best I can—the same dining experience, starting with this beach barbecue-inspired menu. With guests gathered around the smoking meats while light conversation mingles with a playlist that includes downtempo tango, I realize summer in the Northwest is the perfect backdrop for an Argentina-themed dinner with family and friends, and with the relaxed, yet refined, recipes found here, you too can enjoy whatever beach beckons you next.

Wine Spritzer with Strawberry & Citrus

For your next summer gathering, serve this smooth and refreshing wine spritzer. A dry, crisp wine like a Torrontés is perfect and elegant because it’s light on the nose and contains enough tropical-fruit aromas to entice. Make sure to prepare the wine and fruit ahead of time so the wine has time to chill while absorbing the lush fruit flavors. Serves 4

6 orange slices 4 lime slices 4 strawberries, hulled and sliced 1 bottle Torrontés (or other dry, crisp) white wine 8 ounces sparkling water Fresh basil or mint, as needed, for garnish

Add the sliced orange, lime, and strawberries to a large pitcher. Pour in the entire bottle of wine and stir to combine. Place the pitcher in the refrigerator or cooler until chilled. When ready to serve, prepare wine glasses with some ice. Add the sparkling water to the pitcher at the last moment and give it a light stir. Pour in the prepared wine glasses and garnish with fresh basil or mint.

Provoleta with Cherry Tomatoes & Fresh Herbs

Here’s a showstopping appetizer to enjoy all summer long. A thick slice of provoleta (or other similar cheese like provolone) is cooked over hot coals until browned and bubbling. It’s then topped with fresh tomato and herbs and served with a toasted baguette. I like to think of it a bit like fondu or queso fundido but not as molten and melty. Use a five-inch, round cast-iron pan because most large cheese rounds fit snuggly into this size and melt perfectly. One cast-iron portion is generally enough for two to four people, depending on how much everyone likes cheese. This dish is best served hot so have everything prepped and ready to go, then cook the cheese just before sitting down to eat. Serves 2-4

2 tablespoons olive oil, more for oiling the pan 1 clove garlic, peeled and minced 1 tablespoon shallot, peeled and minced ½ cup cherry tomatoes, chopped 1 teaspoon sea salt 2 tablespoons fresh oregano, chopped 4 tablespoons fresh basil, chopped, divided 1 (1/8-inch-thick) round of provolone (or provoleta) cheese 1 toasted baguette, sliced into rounds

Prepare a five-inch, cast-iron skillet by rubbing a small amount of olive oil to season it; set aside. In a large nonstick skillet over medium heat, add the remaining olive oil and heat. When hot, add the garlic and shallots and sauté, stirring often, until translucent. Add the tomatoes and salt and let simmer. Once the tomatoes start to break down, add the oregano and half of the basil. Remove from the heat but keep warm. Next, place the cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat and add the round of cheese. Cook until the cheese begins to melt and crisp on the edges. Remove from the heat and quickly transfer beneath the flame to broil. Broil for 3 to 5 minutes, or until fully melted and golden. Remove from the heat and top with the warm tomato salsa and remaining basil. Serve immediately with a toasted baguette.

Grilled Artichokes with Lemon Tarragon Aioli

Artichokes may look intimidating, but once you see how easy they are to prepare below, you’ll master how to cook this spikey vegetable. These magnificent artichokes are accompanied by a creamy aioli that gets a flavor upgrade with fresh lemon and tarragon. It’s the perfect condiment.

Serves 4

2 to 3 artichokes Lemon wedges, as needed, for rubbing 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon sea salt Lemon Tarragon Aioli, as needed, recipe follows

Place a large steamer stockpot with water over medium-high heat. While the water is heating, trim the base and top three-quarter inches of the artichokes using scissors to snip any sharp points off the leaves. Cut the artichokes in half lengthwise through the stem with a kitchen knife, leaving the choke inside for now as it is easier to remove once it is steamed. Have your lemon wedge ready to rub on the cut pieces right away to avoid any oxidation. When the water comes to a boil, place the artichoke halves in the steamer and steam for 30 to 40 minutes, or until the artichoke stem is tender. Remove the halves from the steamer and let cool slightly before removing the purple choke. Store the artichokes in the refrigerator or cooler until ready to use, or prepare your barbecue or grill to medium heat. Coat the artichokes in olive oil, season with salt, and place cut side down on the grill for 4 to 5 minutes. Turn them over and grill the backside of the chokes for an additional 4 to 5 minutes. While the backside is grilling, brush additional olive oil on the cut side and season with salt. Remove from the heat and serve immediately with Lemon Tarragon Aioli.

Lemon Tarragon Aioli

Serves 4

3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 4 garlic cloves, peeled and minced 1½ cups mayonnaise 3 tablespoons fresh tarragon, chopped

Place the lemon juice in a small bowl and add the minced garlic. Allow to soak for one hour. After soaking, press the lemon juice through a fine-mesh strainer/sieve and discard the garlic. Add the mayonnaise to a large bowl or wide-mouth jar and slowly add the lemon-garlic juice while blending with an immersion blender. Continue until fully combined. Store in the refrigerator and add the fresh tarragon just before serving.

Nothing says summer like steaks on the barbecue. For this recipe, I prefer USDA prime beef. I also like grass-finished meats. Grass-finished means the animal ate only grass or foraged for their entire lifespan, resulting in a beefier texture and flavor. Think of it like wild game, raised on what is most natural to the animal.

Serves 4

1 (32-ounce) two--inch thick bone-in ribeye Olive oil, as needed Kosher salt, as needed Rosemary Chimichurri, divided, recipe follows

Coat the ribeye with olive oil and kosher salt, rubbing the salt into the meat. Use half of the Rosemary Chimichurri and coat and rub into the meat. Transfer the meat to a container with lid and let marinate for at least 2 hours in the refrigerator or cooler. When ready to cook, remove the meat and bring to room temperature, about 1 hour. Meanwhile, prepare an outdoor barbecue or gas grill to high heat (450°F to 500°F). When hot, add the meat. Grill each side of the rib eye for 9 to 10 minutes, then allow it to reach an internal temperature of 130°F for medium rare. Remove the steak and let rest for 5 to 7 minutes so the juices can reabsorb, resulting in a juicer bite. To serve, thinly slice the meat perpendicular to the bone, arrange on a carving board, and serve with the Rosemary Chimichurri.

Rosemary Chimichurri

Serves 4

1 shallot 4 garlic cloves, peeled 3 bunches fresh Italian flat-leaf parsley, stems removed ¼ cup fresh rosemary, stems removed ¼ cup fresh oregano, stems removed 2 teaspoons kosher salt 1 lemon, zested 1 cup olive oil, divided

Place the shallot, garlic, parsley, rosemary, and oregano in a food processor and pulse until coarsely chopped. Remove from food processor and place in a large bowl and mix in the salt and lemon zest. Divide the herb mixture into two bowls. If you are not serving the meal right away, keep one bowl without oil and add the olive oil right before serving. For the second bowl, add the olive oil to create a paste-like texture and use this to marinate the meat.

A James Beard Award–winning cookbook and cocktail author with more than 40 published titles to his credit, Fraioli’s books have been featured on Ellen and the Food Network, and in Vogue, People, Forbes, the Wall Street Journal, and The New York Times. He resides in Bellevue, but keeps his sportfishing boat (a 28-foot Albin) in beautiful Anacortes, the gateway to his beloved San Juan Islands. Have a cookbook idea or project in mind? Email james@culinarybookcreations.com.

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