THE SCENE
DINING OUT
New & Noted Nyima Pratten
POP American Brasserie What: A nostalgic 1970s American Brasserie at the restaurant-stalwart that is Three On The Bund Where: 7/F, Three On The Bund, 17 Guangdong Lu, near Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu. Tel: 6321 0909. Web: www.threeonthebund.com Why: To see the brand new concept that has taken the place of New Heights
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f you hadn’t already noticed, New Heights, on the top floor of Three On The Bund, closed at the end of last year and the space has re-emerged, like a phoenix from the flames, in the form of POP American Brasserie. The restaurant takes its cue from 1970s American culture, with POP artwork and a themed menu that looks to offer homey dishes in a cosy environment. Chef David Chauveau, formally of Sir Elly’s at the other end of the Bund, has turned American classics into contemporary dishes for the Shanghai crowd. Although the layout of the restaurant has been changed, and the bar had yet to be opened on our visit, the restaurant still has that prime Bund-view. On our visit we settled in with “The Diva” (RMB 198), a lavish cocktail combining peach vodka, liquor and sorbet with elderflower syrup and Perrier Jouet champagne. The perfect summer drink to sip on whilst taking in the stunning Shanghai vista on the restaurant’s terrace.
Apart from cocktails, Champagne is also available by the glass or bottle, along with New World and Old World wines, to turn your meal into an occasion to remember.
The Alaskan king crab cake, with coleslaw and hazelnut (RMB 98) was crisp and buttery on the outside with fresh flakes of crabmeat on the inside.
We chose to share, family-style, a selection of the appealing cold and hot appetisers. The light and healthy spinach endive salad with apple, pecan and honey dressing (RMB 58) piqued our taste buds and left us wanting more. The extremely fresh and creamy burrata salad with tomatoes, pine nuts, pesto and balsamic (RMB 118) trickled out onto the plate when we cut into the centre of the cheese and was gobbled up within minutes. Over on the hot plates, we had rich, seared foie gras served on top of apple raisin risotto with hazelnut (RMB 108), a heavy and decadent dish.
From the fish and shellfish section, we selected beer battered cod “fish n chips” with tartar sauce (RMB 128). Although, due to our over zealous ordering, we let this cool for too long before eating and the batter had lost its crispness. The seared scallops, black rice, shizo and chicken jus (RMB 240) plate more than made up for this, however, in their shear size and meatiness. After these dishes, we made our way over to the meat section where we found an impressive looking Wagyu beef burger
with bacon, cheese, onion and fries (RMB 128). This burger came to us quartered, with its red meat on display for the wow factor. The duck leg confit with red beans and bell peppers (RMB 128) was also a rich and welcomed choice. Our vegetarian option, the wild mushroom risotto with truffle and Parmesan (RMB 128), was a surprise favourite. The earthy taste of the truffle permeated the velvety risotto, which made it very hard to share. In terms of sides, we really enjoyed the once again earthy flavour of the trufflepureed potato, along with the crispy southern fried okra and onion rings (all RMB 38). We will be planning a trip back very soon to see the bar in its full glory.
Wishbone with gremolata butter, is marinated and slow-cooked in the traditional French style rotisserie oven. It is suggested for one person (RMB 78), but you can also buy a half or full bird (RMB 150 and RMB 280 respectively). The chicken skin is crisp with the white meat being tender. The side did a good job of trying to steal the show. The chicken dripping new potatoes (RMB 28) oozed with the flavour of the meat, and sweet butternut squash (RMB 28) made an excellent and healthier alternative to the potatoes. Make sure you don’t leave here without trying the homemade lemon tart (RMB 40). Not too sweet, the citrusy yet creamy dessert is the perfect ending to an indulgent chicken dinner.
What: A friendly, neighbourhood rotisserie joint Where: 888-3 Changde Lu, near Changping Lu. Tel: 6257 8511 Why: For juicy chicken straight out of the rotisserie oven
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hef Sam Norris is back with this trendy, Jing’An rotisserie joint. Norris, whose previous appointments include time at Nobu and Dinner by Heston Blumenthal in London and Mr and Mrs Bund in Shanghai, before turning his hand to catering events under the name of Jerk Boi and creating the delicious menu at Mexican-inspired Dogtown.
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May15
The menu is small and concise but hits all the right notes. The starters and bar snacks are tasty, moreish and extremely reasonably priced. We went crazy for the rich and meaty country-style pâté, with shitake mushrooms served alongside crisp bread (RMB 35). The pulled pork croquettes were also a big winner, with a crispy outside and succulent pork with a gooey cheddar centre, served with thinly sliced, lightly pickled cucumber on the side (RMB 35). The pickled mackerel crostini was also a well-balanced dish, as the mackerel was pickled, along with beetroot, to perfection and served on thinly sliced pears. The reason you should go to Wishbone, however, is for their chicken plates. A quarter chicken, stuffed
Not only does the stylish restaurant offer delicious eats, but they also have a good selection of craft beers such as Brew Dog Dead Pony Club (RMB 60) and cocktails such as a summery Aperol Spritz (RMB 60). The service is quick and the wait staff is friendly. There is a regular local crowd going here, and after a few visits you will become firm friends with the chef. Although still in the early opening phase, the restaurant recently held its “Wishbone Weekender”, with live music, guest DJs as well as special food and drink deals. We hope to see more of these events as the summer season creeps up on us.