THE SCENE
DINING OUT
New & Noted Nyima Pratten
POP American Brasserie What: A nostalgic 1970s American Brasserie at the restaurant-stalwart that is Three On The Bund Where: 7/F, Three On The Bund, 17 Guangdong Lu, near Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu. Tel: 6321 0909. Web: www.threeonthebund.com Why: To see the brand new concept that has taken the place of New Heights
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f you hadn’t already noticed, New Heights, on the top floor of Three On The Bund, closed at the end of last year and the space has re-emerged, like a phoenix from the flames, in the form of POP American Brasserie. The restaurant takes its cue from 1970s American culture, with POP artwork and a themed menu that looks to offer homey dishes in a cosy environment. Chef David Chauveau, formally of Sir Elly’s at the other end of the Bund, has turned American classics into contemporary dishes for the Shanghai crowd. Although the layout of the restaurant has been changed, and the bar had yet to be opened on our visit, the restaurant still has that prime Bund-view. On our visit we settled in with “The Diva” (RMB 198), a lavish cocktail combining peach vodka, liquor and sorbet with elderflower syrup and Perrier Jouet champagne. The perfect summer drink to sip on whilst taking in the stunning Shanghai vista on the restaurant’s terrace.
Apart from cocktails, Champagne is also available by the glass or bottle, along with New World and Old World wines, to turn your meal into an occasion to remember.
The Alaskan king crab cake, with coleslaw and hazelnut (RMB 98) was crisp and buttery on the outside with fresh flakes of crabmeat on the inside.
We chose to share, family-style, a selection of the appealing cold and hot appetisers. The light and healthy spinach endive salad with apple, pecan and honey dressing (RMB 58) piqued our taste buds and left us wanting more. The extremely fresh and creamy burrata salad with tomatoes, pine nuts, pesto and balsamic (RMB 118) trickled out onto the plate when we cut into the centre of the cheese and was gobbled up within minutes. Over on the hot plates, we had rich, seared foie gras served on top of apple raisin risotto with hazelnut (RMB 108), a heavy and decadent dish.
From the fish and shellfish section, we selected beer battered cod “fish n chips” with tartar sauce (RMB 128). Although, due to our over zealous ordering, we let this cool for too long before eating and the batter had lost its crispness. The seared scallops, black rice, shizo and chicken jus (RMB 240) plate more than made up for this, however, in their shear size and meatiness. After these dishes, we made our way over to the meat section where we found an impressive looking Wagyu beef burger
with bacon, cheese, onion and fries (RMB 128). This burger came to us quartered, with its red meat on display for the wow factor. The duck leg confit with red beans and bell peppers (RMB 128) was also a rich and welcomed choice. Our vegetarian option, the wild mushroom risotto with truffle and Parmesan (RMB 128), was a surprise favourite. The earthy taste of the truffle permeated the velvety risotto, which made it very hard to share. In terms of sides, we really enjoyed the once again earthy flavour of the trufflepureed potato, along with the crispy southern fried okra and onion rings (all RMB 38). We will be planning a trip back very soon to see the bar in its full glory.
Wishbone with gremolata butter, is marinated and slow-cooked in the traditional French style rotisserie oven. It is suggested for one person (RMB 78), but you can also buy a half or full bird (RMB 150 and RMB 280 respectively). The chicken skin is crisp with the white meat being tender. The side did a good job of trying to steal the show. The chicken dripping new potatoes (RMB 28) oozed with the flavour of the meat, and sweet butternut squash (RMB 28) made an excellent and healthier alternative to the potatoes. Make sure you don’t leave here without trying the homemade lemon tart (RMB 40). Not too sweet, the citrusy yet creamy dessert is the perfect ending to an indulgent chicken dinner.
What: A friendly, neighbourhood rotisserie joint Where: 888-3 Changde Lu, near Changping Lu. Tel: 6257 8511 Why: For juicy chicken straight out of the rotisserie oven
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hef Sam Norris is back with this trendy, Jing’An rotisserie joint. Norris, whose previous appointments include time at Nobu and Dinner by Heston Blumenthal in London and Mr and Mrs Bund in Shanghai, before turning his hand to catering events under the name of Jerk Boi and creating the delicious menu at Mexican-inspired Dogtown.
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The menu is small and concise but hits all the right notes. The starters and bar snacks are tasty, moreish and extremely reasonably priced. We went crazy for the rich and meaty country-style pâté, with shitake mushrooms served alongside crisp bread (RMB 35). The pulled pork croquettes were also a big winner, with a crispy outside and succulent pork with a gooey cheddar centre, served with thinly sliced, lightly pickled cucumber on the side (RMB 35). The pickled mackerel crostini was also a well-balanced dish, as the mackerel was pickled, along with beetroot, to perfection and served on thinly sliced pears. The reason you should go to Wishbone, however, is for their chicken plates. A quarter chicken, stuffed
Not only does the stylish restaurant offer delicious eats, but they also have a good selection of craft beers such as Brew Dog Dead Pony Club (RMB 60) and cocktails such as a summery Aperol Spritz (RMB 60). The service is quick and the wait staff is friendly. There is a regular local crowd going here, and after a few visits you will become firm friends with the chef. Although still in the early opening phase, the restaurant recently held its “Wishbone Weekender”, with live music, guest DJs as well as special food and drink deals. We hope to see more of these events as the summer season creeps up on us.
Chef Talk: Jason Atherton @ Table No.1 Talented British chef and restaurateur, Jason Atherton, was in Shanghai last month for the re-opening of Table No.1. We sat down with the chef to chew the fat and get his recipe for smoked brisket. T: On your flying visits to Shanghai, is there a place you must visit or a food you must eat to make your trip complete?
Talk: What was the initial concept for Table No.1? Jason Atherton: For Table No.1, I wanted to open somewhere that was a destination restaurant with world cuisine but with and extra focus on British cuisine.
JA: For me, I just want to keep trying new things, so whatever is new and interesting out there, I’ll be sure to try it.
T: The restaurant is five years old. How do you ensure that it stays relevant in the fast growing metropolis?
T: With restaurants all over the world, and your name on the door, how do you maintain a level of quality that meets your high standards?
JA: We are constantly changing and evolving. Our menus change with the seasons and I employ staff who have a real feel for what I want, and know how to nurture that.
JA: I have the best possible team around me. They know my high standards and I know I can trust them to deliver – it’s definitely a matter of trust.
T: How has the Shanghai restaurant scene changed since you first opened in 2010?
T: Being your first independent restaurant venture, does Table No. 1 hold a special place in your heart?
JA: A lot! When I opened there weren’t many modern restaurants doing the kind of food we do. The restaurant scene has evolved in Shanghai and continues to do so which is exciting for the city. Competition is a positive thing.
JA: For sure – it was a dream come true for me. It’s every chef ’s dream to own their own restaurant.
T: Do you cater towards a Western palate when creating your dishes in Shanghai, or do you believe that Chinese restaurant goers are happy to accept Western flavours?
T: What is your best food memory from any country in the world? JA: Now that’s a hard one. There are so many! I’ve had a lot of amazing meals, but one that really stands out for me was Thomas Keller’s restaurant The French Laundry in Yountville. It was our 10-year wedding anniversary last year and we celebrated it there – it was all round a very special night, the food was out of this world.
JA: I think that Chinese people are more open about trying new cuisine and willing to challenge their palate, so for me the restaurant is open to everyone who enjoys good food. T: How much creative leeway do you give to Chef de Cuisine, Christopher Pitts, and Executive Chef, Scott Melvin, when it comes to the restaurant?
T: If the world were coming to an end, what would your last meal be?
JA: I allow my chefs a lot of creativity. They wouldn’t be on my team unless I trusted them and believed in what they can do. Chris is a talented chef. He knows what I expect of him and he delivers.
JA: Beans on toast. It takes me back to my childhood and is a real comfort food for me.
Charcoal Roasted Wagyu Brisket Ingredients Shaved onions House pickle For the rub 1g kosher salt 350g brown sugar 120g mustard powder 120g smoked paprika 120g black pepper Method Let meat dry for at least 2 days On the day of cooking (one day before eating) turn on the smoker at 8:30pm – Temperature: 115 °C. Time: 13 hours. Smoke: 2 hours Put rub on the brisket in the morning. Take brisket out at 6:30pm and allow it to sit for a few hours at room temperature. Put the brisket in at 9:30pm. After one hour, add more wood chips. The next morning, when the timer is finished, take the brisket out, cover with plastic wrap and then cover with foil. Allow the meat to sit for at least one hour before serving. Table No.1. The Waterhouse Hotel, The Cool Docks, 1/F, 1-3 Maojiayuan Lu, near Zhongshan Nan Lu. Tel: 6080 2918. Web: www.tableno-1.com
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