CITY LIVING
DINING
New & Noted Madison Kitchen
Nyima Pratten
What: An all-American sandwich shop and deli, with a flavour of Shanghai Where: 1,414 Huaihai Zhong Lu, near Fuxing Lu. Tel: 6404 0025 Why: For indulgent bites and snacks that taste like home
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ustin Hu, formally of popular brunch spot Madison, recently made his very welcomed return to the Xuhui neighbourhood in the form of Madison Kitchen. After the closure of Madison in 2014, its reincarnation has been much anticipated, and does not disappoint. Unlike Madison, however, seating space is limited to one, long communal counter, facing towards the busy road, so it is more of a takeout joint, rather than a lazy Sunday brunch location. The deli is still very much in soft opening phase, but currently offers a range of sandwiches, soup, salads, and sweet treats, along with their own cured meats and pickles. Other Western products also adorn the shelves, such as teabags and truffle oil. The convenient location makes up for the lack of space, and the well-lit, cosy venue is
welcoming to walk-ins. You may also spot one of their cute rescue animals on the way in.
(RMB 55), with egg salad, house cured Cola ham and basil pesto.
Prices are reasonable, with sandwiches starting from RMB 55 and salads RMB 25. Our favourite item on the menu has to be the deliciously deviant Molten Oppa Love (RMB 55), a grilled cheese sandwich, with Swiss, white cheddar, Gruyere and mozzarella, and the addition of kimchi (one of Hu’s classic flavour combinations) and house made Cola ham. We also highly recommend Green Eggs and Ham
All in all, this deli is a winner in our eyes, and we would kill for another bite of their double chocolate bacon cookie (RMB 30). Crispy on the outside, yet gooey in the middle, these cookies have bacon bits blended throughout the mixture and are dusted with rock salt. A perfect balancing act between savoury and sweet. Have it for breakfast, we dare you.
Second Helping: elEfante
Nyima Pratten
What: Mediterranean-style fare from the El Willy Group Where: 20 Donghu Lu, near Huaihai Lu. Tel: 5404 8085 Why: To sample the new summer specials from Chef Carlos Sotomayor
truly put his stamp on this tapas joint, and with his new menu, known as elEfante Menu Number Nine, he has injected a little bit more South American panache to the Mediterranean vibe.
lthough a solid choice all year round, this restaurant really comes into its own during the summer months, when guests can sit leisurely in the large terrace area, whilst sipping on wine and grazing on tapas. Peruvian Chef Sotomayor has well and
The Peruvian inspired mixed seafood ceviche (RMB 75) is a perfect example of this marriage of flavours, with its rich, tart and slightly spicy, citrus marinade. The ceviche comes brimming with fresh, cured octopus, shrimp, scallops and seabass.
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Other highlights on the menu are the more typical El Willy-style “gin and tonic” cured salmon explosion (RMB 82), with spicy onion relish and avocado bursting out of each bite – in the same vein as El Willy’s exploding Baltic salmon. The baby sardines (RMB 82), with tomato concassé, basil, aged balsamic and Iberian ham lardo; seared foie gras (RMB 98), with apple and ginger
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tarte Tatin, pistachio and five-spice jus; and house suckling pig (RMB 90) were also welcomed additions to the table. You can’t go to elEfante and not order paella, and the Boston lobster dry paella (RMB 498) is the most extravagant and satisfying of the lot, from seeing the lobster tableside before cooking, to the excitement of the cracked claws and body piled high atop the rice afterwards. Finish you meal with a “Sexy Napoleon” (RMB 72), because no meal is complete at an El Willy Group restaurant without something “sexy”. This, somewhat healthy, dessert includes seasonal fruits, mango mousse and sour cream ice cream. Two sharing style menus available, priced at RMB 249 or RMB 349 per person, which we think are incredibly good value for money. See you on the terrace.
CITY LIVING
DINING
How To: Shanghainese Stir Fry Experimenting in the kitchen with local cuisine can have mixed results to say the least. That’s because the flavour and ingredient combinations familiar to western chefs don’t quite fuse with the simple tastes of local dishes. But as ever, practice makes perfect – especially when there’s a few key pointers to help you along the way. The secret is, Shanghai cuisine is not as complicated as you thought – it’s all in the sauce, the proper proportions of ingredients and a few skills with the wok. The Secret Is In The Sweet Sauce Across the sub-regions of China, tastes tend to vary wildly. Compared to the spicy food from Sichuan, sweet Shanghainese specialties are more akin to Chinese food found in the west. (And plenty of Chinese people turn their nose up at this city’s food!) That’s because the heart of any good Shanghai stirfry is one thing – the sugary base. This crucial foundation sees sugar dissolved into soy sauce and rice wine, with added garlic and ginger for spice. And this sauce is only added to the wok at the end, bringing all flavours together after the other ingredients have been cooked separately.
‘Crab and Asparagus’ from The Grand Hyatt’s The Grill Restaurant Ingredients ¼ cup of dark soy sauce 2 tbsp. of sugar 1 tbsp. of fresh ginger, minced 4 cloves of garlic, thinly sliced 3 tbsp. of rice wine Pinch or two of salt Ground white pepper to taste Method 1. Prepare Shanghai’s characteristic sweet sauce! Dissolve the sugar in the soy sauce and rice wine. Cut and add ginger and garlic, along with salt and pepper. Set aside. Slice the pork and veggies.
A Key To Proportions True Shanghai stir-fries are more than just a sweet concoction of veg and meat haphazardly tossed together. There’s an art to ingredient combinations. For every dish, specific attention is given to the textures and tastes of individual ingredients. There should always be a starting ratio of at least twice as much veg as protein. Firm veggies such as carrots or celery should always be diced thin to cook fast, the meat too. Keep aromatics like onion and scallions to a minimum, otherwise you run the risk of overpowering the dish with the flavour of one ingredient.
Way Of The Wok Lastly, cooking with the wok may seem like fun. But play with fire and you’re going to
3 tbsp. of high heat cooking oil (we used sunflower seed oil) 200 to 250g of thinly sliced pork 6 green onions, cut into 5cm pieces 1 medium carrot, julienned lengthwise 2 celery stalks, julienned lengthwise
get burned – and your food will become a mushy mess. Wok cooking is all about timing. Get the cooking oil to a high temperature first, heat for a minute until it’s smoking, then toss in the meat. With minimal stirring, you want to sear the outsides fully. Once cooked, remove to a separate bowl – remember, you’ll be combining everything at the end. Now it’s time for the veg, but make sure the oil reheats first to avoid oil-logged greens. Smoking again? Now’s the time to toss in your cut and prepared vegetables. Over a high heat, stir continually to avoid
2. Add 2 tbsp. of oil to the wok and fire it up. Once hot, and the oil is smoking, add the meat and allow it to sear fully on all sides until cooked. Remove meat and allow the oil to reheat, adding another tbsp. of oil before tossing in the veggies. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes, stirring vigorously, until they just begin to soften. 3. Throw the meat back in the wok, along with the sauce, and simmer for 1 to 2 minutes, stirring continually, so as to not overcook.
overcooking, frying only briefly to slightly soften but not lose the colour or crispiness of the fresh produce. Once the vegetables have softened, throw in the meat and sauce then quickly plate.
A Sage’s Recipe Once you’ve tested the waters, mastery of Shanghainese style stir-fry is all about honing your intuition for the tastes of different ingredient combinations. But to get you going, using everything above, try
this stir-fry pork dinner tonight! Recipe serves one. FIELDS (www.fieldschina.com) is a popular online grocery store for safe, quality food in China. FIELDS stocks fresh organic fruit and veg, imported and domestic meat and seafood, plus essential pantry items from home. Order before 5pm in Shanghai and benefit from same day delivery with delivery free for orders over RMB 200. A new customer? Great – you’ll receive a free gift with your first order!
Second Helping: Gui Hua Lou @ Pudong Shangri-La, East Shanghai What: Huaiyangnese and Cantonese cuisine in a luxurious environment Where: 1/F, Pudong Shangri-La, East Shanghai, 33 Fucheng Lu, near Lujiazui Huan Lu. Tel: 6882 8888. Web: www.shangri-la.com Why: To try the new 58 dim sum varieties menu
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uai Yang cuisine is an ancient cuisine style, which is seen as one of the Four Great Traditions that influenced Chinese cuisine. Huai Yang cuisine includes dishes from Huai’an, Yangzhou, Suzhou and Shanghai and is characterised by stewing, braising and steaming over a low fire for a long period of time. The Shangri-La restaurant, and its Executive Chef Gao, is famed for producing some of the best light, fresh and sweet dishes, following these ancient local methods. His new Dim Sum Varieties menu consists
of 58 authentic and creative Cantonese dim sum specialties, with Gui Hua Lou’s Huaiyang and Shanghainese influences. Highlights on the menu include the steamed vegetable dumpling with bamboo fungus (RMB 32 for a portion of three dumplings), a delectable vegetablefocused steamed
dumpling with seasonal bamboo and fungus covered in transparent dough. All the ingredients are cut into tiny, but nicely shaped pieces, bearing the authentic taste of every produce in it to deliver a rich texture in flavour. The deep fried sesame ball with almond cream (RMB 52) is another favourite, and a creative way of reinventing a classic Chinese dessert. The refreshing dessert is garnished with beautiful tremelle slices. The 58 dim sum varieties menu is available from 11:30am to 2:30pm every day, with dishes from RMB 12 to RMB 66. August16 TalkMagazine
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