CITY LIVING
DINING
New & Noted: Raw Eatery And Wood Grill Nyima Pratten
What: A return to basics from the team behind Malabar Where: 2/F, 98 Yanping Lu, near Xinzha Lu. Tel: 5175 9818 Why: For good, honest, high-quality food in an up-andcoming neighbourhood Situated on the second floor of the space that used to play host to La Stazione, the restaurant has a warm, wooded interior, and although still in soft opening phase when we visited, it was fully booked. The team at Raw Eatery And Wood Grill claim that they have placed an emphasis on quality produce and the use of cooking methods that respect the natural properties and flavours of the ingredients. The inspiration for the menu was taken from the installation of a firewood, Josper Charcoal Oven situated, quite deliberately, in the heart of the kitchen, pride of place
for Head Chef Juan Campos, who took us in to marvel at its wonders and breathe in that charcoally scent of roasted garlic. True to its promise, dishes were served with the hallmarks of their original taste and texture, yet often enhanced with a smoky after taste. This was beautifully in evidence when it came to Chilean Wagyu beef tartare (RMB 128), with an irresistibly shiny looking smoked egg yolk. We burst the yolk sac and mixed it into the raw beef, and in doing so, a wonderfully rich, smoky taste permeated the whole dish. We also enjoyed the somewhat “raw” starter of smoked yellowtail tiradito (RMB 98), with purple causa, and a spicy mango sorbet. An eclectic dish that was perfectly balanced with the tart, yet sweet, taste of the sorbet and seafood. The burrata (RMB 138) was rich and creamy, as it should be,
and served with the addition of smoked tomato, creamy avocado and an indulgent truffle dressing. From the famous oven, we sampled the Chilean free range Wagyu thin skirt (RMB 358 for two people including two sides). This restaurant takes pride in its cuts of imported meat, which can be seen in the selection on display in the dining room. Luckily for all, this steak did not disappoint, being grilled to perfection in the Josper oven. The sautéed dragon beans with chilli and garlic were our favourite side to this dish, and a well thought out nod to the Asian palate. Finally, we enjoyed the rich and hearty rice pudding with Valrhona chocolate to end the meal. We are already looking forward to going back for second helpings when the restaurant is fully operational.
Second Helpings: El Willy Nyima Pratten
What: High-end tapas combined with Bund-side elegance Where: 5/F, 22 Zhongshan Dong Er Lu, near Xin Yong’an Lu. Tel: 5404 5757. Web: www.el-willy.com Why: To sample the new (as well as tried and tested) chef specials at the fun, innovative and above all… sexy(!) restaurant The truly unique El Willy brand has kept patrons from around the city, and further afield, coming back to their multiple restaurants in Shanghai and Hong Kong for years. The jewel in the crown of the flamboyant chef and restaurateur, Willy Trullas, is of course El Willy, and we went back, once again, to try their new range of chef specials. El Willy is perpetually full, and on any night, weekday or weekend, bursting with chattering, happy tables, kept buoyed by a great atmosphere, interactive chefs and sweeping views out towards the skyscrapers of Lujiazui financial district. Its self-title sexiness oozes from the wait staff, to the interior design and to those allimportant dishes. This is a place to come, with friends or lovers, to share in the great atmosphere and even better food. With a stimulating mix of flavours, textures and colours on every plate, there is a good mix of stalwart dishes, which we have come to favour on the menu, as well as
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innovative, new additions. One of the highlights of these additions being kingfish and sea urchin tiradito in smoked yellow chilli sauce (RMB 125), a playful, bright and light dish offering a wide spectrum of flavours from umami all the way through to spice in small bite sized chunks. The mini montaditos de bogarante, otherwise known as “sexy Boston lobster snacks” (RMB 188) are another top billing on the menu, and were inspired, along with a few other new dishes, by Chef Willy and Chef Koen’s recent trip to Peru. The El Nido Mollette Malloquin (RMB 22 per piece), mini steamed chorizo buns, soft poached quail egg, which oozes thick yolk when bitten into, is also a more than welcome newcomer. The lamb shoulder (RMB 488 for one kilogram) served with potatoes, tomatoes and Jerez, another newbie, is a solid and traditional offering, balancing out the more adventurous dishes on the new menu.
Of course, you can’t go to El Willy and not order the explosive balik salmon (RMB 98). It would be sacrilege not to eat the puff piece of bread, injected with cream cheese, topped with smoked salmon, black truffle and honey, and we are happy to report that it is still on the menu. Semi-cooked red tuna loin with gazpacho, avocado and olives (RMB 115) and the classically Spanish steamed mussels (RMB 248) are also firm favourites that will be sticking around for a while to come. Finally, you can’t leave El Willy in good conscience without ordering rice. They offer paella in a juicy or dry style with a variety of additions, the perfect way to round out the meal, unless you are still able to fit in something sweet. In that case, ask for the special dessert, inspired by those naughty nipples from Zotter Chocolate Theatre. You won’t be disappointed!