APRIL 2014 • Vol. 20 No. 4
Functionally Enhanced Proteins with Naturally Concentrated Phytoactives —Outstanding Stability and Improved Efficacy …by Diana M. Cheng,1 Diana E. Roopchand,1 Ilya Raskin,1 and Nava Dayan2
Challenges in Utilizing Plant Extracts in Skin Care
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ypical approaches for extraction of phytoactives from plant material have serious limitations. Some methods utilize organic solvents and require separation techniques to eliminate traces of unwanted solvents, while others such as CO2 extraction can be expensive and require specialized equipment. Column chromatography may also be employed to further concentrate phytoactives, adding steps to the process and the use of additional organic solvents. Solvents must be removed to produce a dried powder which can be time consuming and costly. Techniques such as spray drying require heat, which may potentially alter the phytochemical composition and bioactivity of the extract as well as shorten product shelf life. For example, anthocyanins are temperature-, light- and pH-sensitive; and subject to degradation upon exposure to in-process conditions. Herein, we present technology that uses edible protein matrices to naturally sorb (i.e. bind) and concentrate phytoactives, but not sugars, from plant juices and extracts. This technology effectively captures and stabilizes phytoactives onto a protein matrix while preserving their bioactivity without the need for harsh solvents or affinity columns.
with phytoactives from apple, black currant, blueberry, cinnamon, cranberry, ginger, grape, green tea, pear, and pomegranate. All such products can be standardized to deliver 1% to 10% of phytoactives per 100 g of protein matrix. Blueberry, grape, and cinnamon
Protein Matrices Produce Phytoactive Concentrates The technology presented in this article was originally developed for nutrition applications and uses edible protein matrices to sorb and concentrate plant phytoactives, leading to the formation of a stable phytoactive-enriched protein complex. This complexation effectively amplifies the health-promoting effects of phytoactives while combining them with nutritional benefits of high-quality dietary protein. The amplification is based on increased stability and bioavailability of phytoactives complexed with proteins. Products have been made with soy, pea, hemp, and whey proteins fortified 1
products have demonstrated in vitro and in vivo anti-diabetic effects including reduced hyperglycemia, reduced weight gain, lower serum cholesterol, and improved glucose tolerance in high fat dietinduced obese mice.1-4
Nutrasorb L.L.C. and Rutgers University
NYSCC
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Dr. Nava Dayan L.L.C.
MEETING
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S e a s o n s , W a s h i n g t o n To w n s h i p , N e w J e r s e y
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2014 NYSCC BOARD OF DIRECTORS & PROGRAM CHAIRS CHAIR
Steve Neidenberg sbn605@aol.com
CHAIR-ELECT
Kim Burch (609) 443-2385 Kim.Burch@elementis.com
TREASURER
Sonia Dawson sonia.dawson@croda.com
TREASURER-ELECT
Marie Thadal (609) 712-3716 nyscctreasurerelect@gmail.com
SECRETARY
Jenna Jelinski (201) 396-8431 jjelinski@morretec.com
ADVISOR
Steve Herman (973) 479-5702 steveh50@optonline.net
HOUSE
Andrea Guerrero aguerrero@gattefossecorp.com (862) 324-1063
MEMBERSHIP
Amy Marshall (908) 806-4664 amy.marshall@altana.com
PROGRAM
Cathy Piterski (678) 730-1643 cpiterski@essentialingredients.com
SPECIAL EVENTS John Denoia (845) 664-4862 jdenoia@espllc.us
SUPPLIERS’ DAY
Sandy Chapin schapin@allured.com
COSMETISCOPE EDITOR Roger McMullen roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu
COSMETISCOPE ADVERTISING Bret Clark rbclark@ashland.com
COSMETISCOPE EMPLOYMENT Jason O’Neill (631) 252-2939 Jason.Oneill@kemin.com
A t t e n t i o n
M e m b e r s
Unemployed and Emeritus members may continue to attend monthly meetings free of charge. Please contact the registration booth upon arrival. Unemployed members may also continue their membership free of charge by submitting the renewal form with unemployment details. Please remember that the SCC Employment Service is here to assist you. Contact: Jason O’Neill • E-Mail: Jason.Oneil@kemin.com
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Cosmetics in Contemporary Brazil May 12, 2014 Renaissance Woodbridge • Iselin, NJ The New York Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
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member of the rising economic powers, otherwise known as the BRIC nations and a significant emerging market, Brazil is Latin America's largest economy and the fifth largest country in the world with a population estimated to be about 200 million. Demographically, Brazil is one of the most ethnically diverse countries and a major consumer of personal care products and fragrances. Brazil’s biological diversity is the largest in the world. It is blessed with abundant raw materials, which have many uses in personal care. As more companies are embracing globalization to reach new customers in new markets, a greater understanding of consumer preferences, important product types, and regulatory issues in this vast and growing market is essential. The NYSCC, in conjunction with its world renowned Suppliers’ Day event, has assembled a program of experts to further explore this land of immense opportunities.
n AGENDA
8:00 − 8:30 a.m. 8:30 − 8:45 a.m. 8:45 − 9:30 a.m. 9:30 − 10:15 a.m. 10:15 − 10:30 a.m. 10:30 − 11:15 a.m. 11:15 − 12:00 p.m. 12:00 − 1:00 p.m. 1:00 − 1:45 p.m. 1:45 − 2:30 p.m. 2:30 − 2:45 p.m. 2:45 − 3:30 p.m. 3:30 − 4:15 p.m. 4:15 − 5:00 p.m. 5:00 − 5:15 p.m.
REGISTRATION OPENING COMMENTS Dawn Thiel Glaser Brazil (Beraca) − A Land of Opportunities: Vast Natural Resources and A Growing Personal Care Market Alberto Keidi Kurebayashi (Protocolo Consultoria Personal and Health Care) − Guidelines to Develop Functional and Acceptable Hair and Skin Care Products for the Brazilian Market BREAK Mohamed Omer (Mintel) − By the Numbers: The Personal Care Market in Brazil Jean-François Molina (Solabia) − Overview of Brazilian Biodiversity and its Contribution to Skin and Hair Beauty LUNCH Sergio Oliveir (J&J) − Regulatory and Safety Issues in Brazil Silvia Staniscuaski Guterres (Universidade Federal do Rio Grande do Sul) − Innovative Nanotechnology-based Cosmetics in Brazil: State-of-the-Art and Trends BREAK Dr. Rakesh Jain (Amyris) − Cosmetic Products from Sugarcane Emiro Khury (EK Consultores) − Technological Advances and Regulatory Aspects in Sunscreens Products in Latin America Ana Palombo (Coty) − The Brazilian Fragrance Market CLOSING REMARKS
n COST & REGISTRATION SCC Members $75.00 • Non-members $95.00 • Emeritus Members Free if pre-registered • Students with valid ID $10.00 At the door: $30.00 surcharge in all categories. Register online at www.nyscc.org. • Registration questions: John Carola at johnc@protameen.com.
n COST & REGISTRATION Renaissance Woodbridge Hotel 515 US Highway 1, South, Iselin, NJ 08830 • GPS Address: 401 Gill Lane, Iselin, NJ 08830 Hotel is at the corner US HWY 1 South and Gill Lane. V O L U M E
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Plant Science Seminar • April 23rd EDUCATIONAL HOUR SPEAKER Speaker: John Greaves, Ph.D. Topic: Phytochemical Variation and Hyper-accumulation —Not All Plants Are Created Equal Date: April 23, 2014 • 4:30 PM Location: Seasons, Washington Township, NJ Open registration: 4:00 PM Educational Hour: 4:30 PM • Dinner: 5:30 PM
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lants are capable of synthesizing complex molecules naturally using sunlight, carbon dioxide, and water as basic raw materials. These complex molecules have evolved to protect essential plant processes such as photosynthesis against oxidation and against the constant onslaught of microbial and insect pests. Many of these molecules have important applications outside the plant such as protecting personal and household care formulations against oxidation as well as having direct physiological activity in vivo. Plants vary in their ability to synthesize and accumulate these phytochemicals. Kemin’s specialty crop improvement (SCI) initiative is focused on breeding specific clonal lines and cultivars of a number of plant species with optimized hyper-accumulation of specific bioactive molecules for use in food, nutrition, health, personal care, and household applications. Kemin’s SCI program is a vertically integrated global research, development, and production initiative focused on the development, agronomic scale-up, and production of plant species including rosemary, mint, marigold, oregano, sage, potato, and other specialty plants. The program combines the latest techniques in conventional (non-GMO) breeding with analytical chemistry and research agronomy to develop and advance novel, hyper-accumulating cultivars of plants for full scale sustainably certified agronomic production of extractable biomass. The ability to harness these renewable sources of bioactive molecules provides personal care companies with reliable options to source natural ingredients.
Biography:
J "OT A NE S S E NT I A L 2234 .AT UR AL !NT I /XI DANT #OMPL E X
) MPR OVE ME NT I N /XI DAT I VE 0R OT E C T I ON s .A T UR A L %X T R A C T #O MPL E X s ,O W /DO R s &R E E O F 3 Y NT HE T I C ) NG R E DI E NT S s ,O W #O L O R
ohn is the worldwide Director of specialty crop improvement for Kemin Industries, Inc. His primary responsibilities include establishing strategic direction for SCI in concert with the Kemin business units’ needs; and coordinating breeding, selection, biochemical screening ,and field scale-up activities. John also represents CALTAX (Central Analytical Laboratory for Target Analytes and Xenobiotics) on the KI executive team. He holds a B.Sc. degree in Agricultural Botany and Ph.D in Plant Physiology, both from the University of Wales in the UK. Prior to his current position, John spent three years as president of Hy-Line International and seven years as president of Kemin AgriFoods. He was also Vice-president of Research & Development for Kemin Industries, Inc., and Kemin Biotechnology, L.C. John originally joined Kemin in 1996. Prior to joining Kemin, John was the trait-breeding Manager for ICI/Garst where he spent eight years building a unique gene discovery and trait introgression program in corn. John is an inventor on 12 U.S. patents and has published in peer-reviewed journals and books. John holds board/board advisory positions at ISU’s Plant Sciences Institute, Iowa Corn Opportunities LLC, and Chromatin, Inc.
NYSCC MONTHLY MEETING REGISTRATION: • Online: www.nyscc.org • For questions, please contact: John Carola at JohnC@protameen.com.
CHAPTER MEETING COST:
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Pre-registered SCC members: $35 ($70 at door) • Pre-registered non-SCC members: $75 ($110 at door) Students: $10 ($50 at door) • Emeritus: Free ($40 at door) Register online at: www.nyscc.org.
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M O N T H LY C H A P T E R M E E T I N G Speaker: Nayak Satish, Ph.D. Topic: How Mother Nature Protects Date: April 23, 2014 • 6:30 PM Location: Seasons, Washington Township, NJ
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espite being necessary for sustaining life on this planet, oxygen can have several detrimental effects. One of the most common negative effects is the unwanted oxidation of matter. The ubiquity and reactivity of oxygen renders it the ability to oxidize everything that it ‘touches’. To counteract this oxidative process all living matter has evolved measures that can slow down or nullify these reactions. One of the measures developed include production of antioxidants. Plants primarily produce antioxidants to protect their photosynthetic pathway, which is constantly under ‘oxidative attack’. The type of antioxidant produced depends on several factors such as the type of the plant, geographical region, soil, environment, and where the plant is in its life cycle. These antioxidants are complex in their structure and functionality, and can rarely be manufactured outside of the plant. By using novel methodologies these antioxidants can be extracted from various biological sources such as plants and algae for use by humans in various applications such as foods, medicines, and cosmetics.
Biography:
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atish Nayak is the Director of Research and Development for Kemin Personal Care. He joined Kemin in 2008 as a Scientist for Kemin Industries Discovery Research group where he was the project manager for Chemistry and Biochemistry projects. Prior to coming to Kemin, Satish worked as a Post-Doctoral Assistant at the University of Chicago, where his research focused on developing biological models to understand the effect of proteins, particularly enzymes on cell surfaces. He holds a Bachelor’s of Science in Chemistry from Ramnarain Ruia College in Mumbai, India and he received a Master’s of Science in Analytical Chemistry from the University of Mumbai in India. Satish also obtained his Doctorate of Philosophy in Chemistry (Polymer) from the Georgia Institute of Technology in Atlanta, Georgia.
Directions to Seasons, Washington Township, NJ • From Teaneck: Follow Route 4 West to Route 17 North then to Garden State Parkway North. Go through the toll and take Exit 168 (Washington Township). Go up the ramp and bear right at the intersection (Washington Avenue). Go approximately ½ mile to SEASONS at the first light. The driveway is located about 100 feet on the right side before the light. If you go to the light, make a right turn and go in the first driveway on Pascack Road about 125 feet south of Washington Avenue. • Alternate: Same as above to Route 17 North. Go past the Garden State Parkway entrance to the Linwood Avenue exit in Paramus (about ½ mile after Fashion Center). Take the Linwood Avenue exit, bear right onto Linwood Avenue, and go about ¾ mile to a “T” in the road, which is the intersection of Pascack Road, AKA Woodland Avenue. Make a left on Pascack Road (Woodland Avenue), then go north about 1½ miles past the shopping center on your right to SEASONS (on left) at the light. The driveway into SEASONS is about 125 feet before the light. • From NYC: Take the George Washington Bridge to Route 4 West, then follow the instructions from Teaneck. • From Closter: Take Closter Dock Road West to Closter, then turn left at the blinker (just before Closter town center) onto High Street. Continue west on High Street across Schralenburgh Road. High Street now becomes Old Hook Road. Go west on Old Hook Road past the reservoir, hospital, and across Kinderkamack Road into Westwood. Bear right onto Broadway before the railroad tracks and continue until Washington Avenue on the left at the railroad station. Turn left on Washington Avenue and follow for 1½ to 2 miles until you reach the intersection of Pascack Road (light). SEASONS is located at the intersection on the left side. • From Rockland: Take the Garden State Parkway South to Exit 166. Turn right after the exit. The road ends at Linwood Avenue. Turn right on Linwood Avenue. Linwood Avenue ends at Pascack Road. Turn left at Pascack Road. SEASONS is 1½ miles on the left, on the corner of Pascack Road and Washington Avenue. V O L U M E
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Enhanced Stability Plant extracts are complex mixtures; however, certain classes of compounds may dominate the phytochemical makeup of a specific plant. Those may include anthocyanins (e.g., cyanidin, malvidin, delphinidin glycosides), proanthocyanidins (e.g., procyanidin A1 or A2; procyanidin B1, B2, or B3), flavonols (e.g., quercetin and myricetin glycosides) and phenolic acids (e.g., caffeic acid, ferulic acid, caftaric acid). Through complexation of blueberry, cranberry, or grape phytoactives with a protein-rich matrix, anthocyanins, proanthocyanidins, and total polyphenol remain stable for up to one year at 37 °C (Figure 1).1,2,5,6
Enhanced Anti-microbial Activity
The Soul & Science of Beauty. www.evonik.com/personal-care
Addition of cranberry extract, prepared by the process described above, into bacterial culture media inhibits colony formation of gram negative (Escherichia coli) and gram positive (Staphylococcus aureus) bacteria (Figure 2).2,6,7 Polyphenols from cranberry extract demonstrated anti-adhesion/anti-urinary tract infection properties using an in vitro model of agglutination of human red blood cells by uropathogenic E. coli.6 This anti-microbial activity may be of interest in topical formulations for: 1. Reduction or elimination of formulation preservatives 2. Skin disorders such as acne
Development of a Diverse Product Line
Figure 1. Blueberry polyphenols complexed to defatted soy flour (BB-DSF) are stable for up to one year. Blueberry (A) anthocyanins (ACNs) and (B) total polyphenols (TPs) expressed as a percentage of the original concentration measured on day 0 (before incubation at 37 °C) and after indicated weeks at 37 °C.2
Several matrix options have been successfully used as sorbent material including soy protein, pea protein, pea fiber, hemp protein, whey protein, oat bran, and wheat bran. These matrices have been combined with variety of plant phytoactives from fruits, berries, vegetables, spices, teas, and herbs to produce an extensive assortment of phytoactive-enriched ingredients (Figure 3). Due the flexibility and simplicity of the process, this technology provides virtually limitless opportunities for product line customization and tailoring for specific applications.
Applications in Skin Care The protein-phytoactive complexes exhibit various benefits in skin care products. They are delivered in a natural, concentrated, stable, and effective form. Such raw materials are sustainable and supported by a trail of procurements. Equally important, they provide a natural way for concentrating phytoactives. In addition, many phytochemicals have anti-microbial activity that may allow formulators to reduce or eliminate preservative levels in cosmetic formulations. Protein-phytoactive complexes may be formulated into a wide array of powder, liquid, gel, emulsion, or wax-based skin care products for stable delivery and extended release of antioxidant phytoactives. Figure 2. Inhibition of S. aureus colony formation by cranberry extract (CB-DSF) prepared by the technique described in the section above. The figure shows S. aureus colonies on acidic (pH 4) or neutral (pH 7) pH-adjusted solid medium (first column); on solid medium (pH 4) containing defatted soybean flour (DSF) or cranberry polyphenol-enriched DSF (CB-DSF) (second column) or on a pH-adjusted (pH 7) solid medium containing 10, 20, 30, or 40 mg/ml of DSF or CB-DSF.2
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Figure 3. Examples of various ingredients, standardized for total polyphenols (1-10%), specific phytochemicals, or antioxidant content. Colors indicate the presence of pigmented phytoactives, such as anthocyanins present in cranberries or blueberries. Neutral colors are produced using phytoactives from sources such as white grape or pear.
Skin Microbiota Premise The skin is populated by microorganisms, called the skin microbiota, which may be a target of polyphenol activity. In many chronic skin inflammatory disorders, such as dandruff, dermatitis, and rosacea, imbalances exist in the microbiota. Results from our laboratory demonstrate that polyphenol-protein complexes have increased bioavailability and bioefficacy, compared to unbound phytoactives; however, the absorption of polyphenols into skin is limited. Polyphenols complexed to a protein matrix are greatly stabilized, and this may facilitate polyphenol actions that do not require absorption, such as modulation of the microbiota on the skin’s surface. It is conceivable that polyphenols applied to skin may act in a prebiotic-like manner towards beneficial microbes while suppressing unfavorable microorganisms that generate skin inflammation or other imbalances (i.e. antibiotic and anti-inflammatory effects). Polyphenols may thus be a way to naturally balance the immune and bacterial homeostasis of the skin to promote skin health. This hypothesis remains to be rigorously investigated.
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Concluding Remarks The process of complexing polyphenols with proteins is superior in many aspects when compared to traditional or even advanced plant polyphenol extraction techniques. This is mainly due to enhanced stability and bioavailability translating to greater efficacy from a smaller amount of phytoactives. The processes described herein use natural, low cost non-residual solvents (e.g., water, ethanol) for extraction of beneficial phytoactives from food ingredients. Increased shelf life of phytoactives and less regulatory hurdles make this process commercially appealing for a wide array of nutritional and cosmetic applications.
References 1. Roopchand, D.E.; Kuhn, P.; Poulev, A.; Oren, A.; Lila ,M.A.; Fridlender B.; Raskin, I. Biochemical analysis and in vivo hypoglycemic activity of a grape polyphenol-soybean flour complex. J Agric Food Chem 2012, 60, 8860-8865. 2. Roopchand, D.E.; Grace, M.H.; Kuhn, P.; Cheng, D.M.; Plundrich, N.; Poulev, A.; Howell, A.; Fridlender, B.; Lila, M.A.; Raskin, I. Efficient sorption of polyphenols to soybean flour enables natural fortification of foods. Food Chem 2012, 131, 1193-1200. 3. Roopchand, D.E.; Kuhn, P.; Rojo, L.E.; Lila, M.A.; Raskin, I. Blueberry polyphenol-enriched soybean flour reduces hyperglycemia, body weight gain and serum cholesterol in mice. Pharmacol Res 2013, 68, 59-67. 4. Cheng, D.M.; Kuhn ,P.; Poulev, A.; Rojo L.E.; Lila, M.A.; Raskin I In vivo and in vitro antidiabetic effects of aqueous cinnamon extract and cinnamon polyphenol-enhanced food matrix. Food Chem 2012, 135, 2994-3002. 5. Roopchand, D.E.; Kuhn, P.; Krueger, C.G.; Moskal, K.; Lila, M.A.; Raskin, I. Concord grape pomace polyphenols complexed to soy protein isolate are stable and hypoglycemic in diabetic mice. J Agric Food (Continued on page 8)
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Rossow USA, Inc. Specialty Cosmetic Ingredients
Functionally Enhanced Proteins… Cosmetic ingredients your formulas can trust!
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(Continued from page 7)
Chem 2013, 61, 11428-11433. 6. Grace, M.H.; Guzman, I.; Roopchand, D.E.; Moskal, K.; Cheng, D.M.; Pogrebnyak, N.; Raskin, I.; Howell, A.; Lila, M.A. Stable Binding of Alternative Protein-Enriched Food Matrices with Concentrated Cranberry Bioflavonoids for Functional Food Applications. J Agric Food Chem 2013, 61, 6856-6864. 7. Plundrich, N.; Grace, M.H.; Raskin, I.; Ann Lila, M. Bioactive polyphenols from muscadine grape and blackcurrant stably concentrated onto protein-rich matrices for topical applications. Int J Cosmetic Sci 2013, 35, 394-401.
Our Collaboration Dr. Nava Dayan LLC and Nutrasorb LLC partnered in a collaboration initiative to introduce plant extracts to the skin care market. Through its unique research and exploration approach Nutrasorb has been successful in developing unique extraction and separation methods to mine for the essential active components in plants. Combined with Dr. Dayan’s knowledge and expertise in skin biochemistry and delivery, this initiative paves the path for true innovation to plant derived skin care. We welcome further inquiries and insights.
Save the Date…
Sun Exposure, Implications and Protection of Skin October 15th Pines Manor, Edison, NJ CA L L F O R PA P E R S – P O D I U M P R E S E N TAT I O N S
Annual Scientific Meeting & Technology Showcase December 11-12, 2014 New York Hilton Hotel, New York City
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uthors are invited to submit titles and abstracts of no more than 150 words for original papers to be presented in podium format. All topics related to cosmetic science will be considered for presentation. Topics of particular interest for submission of abstracts are: Color Cosmetics (Formulation and Performance for Skin) Fragrances in the Cosmetic Industry (Fine Fragrances, Regulations, Fragrancing Personal Care Products) Basics of Cosmetic Formulations (Emulsion & Surfactant Chemistry) Topical Delivery Systems (Liposomes, Encapsulations, Micro-emulsions, Devices) Current Regulations affecting the Cosmetic Industry (US Regulations, OTC Products, cGMPs) Online Formulating and Research Tools for the Cosmetic Chemist (Social Media, Computer Apps, Websites, Databases) Emerging Trends and Innovations in the Cosmetic Industry
SUBMISSION DEADLINE: MAY 2, 2014 All abstracts must be submitted online at our website www.scconline.org. After acceptance of abstracts by the Committee, all presenters will be required to submit preprints 12 weeks prior to presentation (minimum of 600 words, maximum of 2 pages, including figures). All presenters will be eligible for the Shaw Mudge Award sponsored by BASF Corporation, which is given for the Best Paper presented at the Society's Annual Meeting. The honorarium for this award is $2,500. Presenters are required to register for the Meeting. 8
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2014 TRI-Princeton Events Human Hair/Cosmetic Interactions • May 15-16 This two-day professional education course is based on the premise that an understanding of how cosmetic treatments affect human hair properties is critical for the development of successful products. The instructors approach the material from a fundamental perspective; offering students the opportunity to closely examine the basic structure of hair and hair care products as well as interactions between the two. Lecturers include: Trefor Evans, Jim Anderson, Bob Lochhead, Roger L. McMullen, Crystal Porter, and Randy Wickett.
Processing Services for dry powders Jet Mill Technology for Ultra Fine Bases, Face Powders, and Pigments. FDA cGMP
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Hair & Scalp Biology Workshop • September 15
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This one-day intensive workshop on hair and scalp biology, taught by leading hair biologist, Dr. Gillian Westgate, is intended to organize and advance hair and scalp biology as an integral component of hair care product development.
Science Behind Hair Claims • September 16-17 This course focuses on attributes of hair, together with testing and technical knowledge, leading to the support of product claims. In addition, we will review the media perspective and regulatory aspects of the claims process.
Applied Hair Science Conference • September 18-19 This conference brings together people creating hair care products, today and tomorrow, with the creators of the newest product technology, technical insights, and measurement methods. TRI-Princeton requests abstract submissions on hair science and its applications for podium and poster presentations. We invite all topics related to hair science. Topics… Fiber science • Biology and ethnic variations • Chemistry and proteomics New measurement techniques • Developing technologies and approaches Abstracts for podium presentations must be submitted by March 31, 2014. Interested applicants should e-mail their abstracts to the Conference Organizer at events@triprinceton.org. For more information on all these events contact Eleanor Lehman at events@triprinceton.org; or call (609) 430-4820; or visit the website at www.triprinceton.org/education.
Upcoming 2013 NYSCC Events Calendar • For updated NYSCC information, visit us on the web at: www.nyscc.org • For National SCC information: www.scconline.org April 23 Plant Science Seminar, Seasons, Washington Township, NJ May 12 Cosmetics in Contemporary Brazil, Renaissance Woodbridge Hotel, Iselin, NJ
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Essential Ingredients Michael Manning 201.576.9382 mmanning@essentialingredients.com
May 13-14 NYSCC Suppliers’ Day, Edison, NJ June 5 2014 NYSCC Antioxidant Symposium, New York, NY July (TBD) Golf Outing (TBD) September (TBD) NYSCC Regulatory Symposium (TBD) September 18 Culinary Event, Midtown Loft, New York, NY October 15 Sun Exposure, Implications and Protection of Skin, Pines Manor, Edison, NJ November 5 Board Transition Meeting, Valley Regency, Clifton, NJ
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Innovation for Hair & Skin
croda.com/na/pc
Save the Date
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June 5, 2014
New York Academy of Sciences World Trade Center, Building 7 • New York, NY The New York Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists is proud to announce the 2014 NYSCC Antioxidant Symposium, which will feature key academic and industrial researchers in the field of antioxidants and the skin. The conference will be held on the top floor of the newly constructed Building 7 of the World Trade Center, home to the New York Academy of Sciences. There will be a concurrent poster session in which entries will be eligible for the poster competition and will be judged on originality and innovation relevant to methodologies and the use of antioxidants in skin care.
Conference attendees will receive a complimentary book:
Antioxidants and the Skin
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Agenda 9:00 a.m. – 9:55 a.m.
Breakfast and registration
9:55 a.m. – 10:00 a.m.
Opening Remarks – NYSCC Chair Steve Neidenberg and NYSCC Program Chair Cathy Piterski
10:00 a.m. – 10:30 a.m.
Antioxidants and the Skin – Roger L. McMullen, Ph.D. (Ashland Specialty Ingredients and Fairleigh Dickinson University)
10:30 a.m. – 11:00 a.m.
Environmental Effects on Skin: Antioxidant Protection Against Oxidative Challenge – Ed Pelle, Ph.D. (Estée Lauder Research Laboratories)
11:00 a.m. – 11:30 a.m.
Botanical Antioxidants for Health and Beauty of Skin – Hasan Mukhtar, Ph.D. (University of Wisconsin)
11:30 a.m. – 11:45 p.m.
Coffee Break
11:45 a.m. – 12:15 p.m.
IFSCC International Speaker – Changes in Cutaneous Radical Scavenging Activity after Topical and Systemic Application of Antioxidants – Martina Meinke, Ph.D. (Klinik fur Dermatologie, Venerologie und Allergologie, Berlin, Germany)
12:15 p.m. – 12:35 p.m.
Polyphenol-protein Complexes for Stable Delivery of Fruit Antioxidants – Diana Roopchand, Ph.D. and Nava Dayan, Ph.D. (Rutgers University, Nutrasorb, and Dr. Nava Dayan, LLC)
12:35 p.m. – 12:55 p.m.
Oxidative Stress Applied to Aging and Acne Prone Skin – Jean-François Molina (Solabia)
12:55 p.m. – 2:00 p.m.
Lunch – Poster Session
2:00 p.m. – 2:30 p.m.
Keynote Lecture: Role of Topically Applied Antioxidants in Photoprotection Against UV and Infrared A Radiation – Prof. Dr. Jean Krutmann (IUF – Leibniz Research Institute for Environmental Medicine)
2:30 p.m. – 3:00 p.m.
Prevention of Ultraviolet Radiation-induced Oxidative Stress in Skin by Dietary Phytochemicals – Santosh Katiyar, Ph.D. (University of Alabama at Birmingham and Birmingham Veterans Affairs Medical Center)
3:00 p.m. – 3:20 p.m.
Antioxidants for Skin Health – Kelly Delgado (Kemin)
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3:20 p.m. – 3:40 p.m.
A Natural Meroterpene Providing Skin Benefits by Modulating Multiple Molecular Targets – Ratan Chaudhuri, Ph.D. (Sytheon Ltd.)
3:40 p.m. – 4:00 p.m.
Coffee Break
4:00 p.m. – 4:30 p.m.
The Need for Topical Antioxidants to Achieve Protection and Reversal of Environmental Damage of the Skin – Karen Burke, Ph.D., M.D. (Mt. Sinai Medical Center)
4:30 p.m. – 4:50 p.m.
The Biologic Clock: The Mitochondria – Karine Cucumel, Ph.D. (Ashland Specialty Ingredients – Vincience)
4:50 p.m. – 5:20 p.m.
Antioxidants Within the Global Specialty Active Ingredients Market: Current Situation and Outlook – Nikola Matic (Kline)
5:20 p.m. – 5:40 p.m.
Fucus Extract: A New Approach for the Treatment of Under-eye Dark Circles – Manasi Chavan, Ph.D. (BASF Beauty Creations)
5:40 p.m. – 6:00 p.m.
Antioxidants as Antiagers: Emerging Evidence for the Reduction of Visible Signs of Skin Aging – Roberto Dal Toso, Ph.D. (Sederma)
6:00 p.m. – 6:05 p.m.
Closing Remarks – NYSCC Chair Steve Neidenberg and Symposium Chair Roger L. McMullen, Ph.D.
6:05 p.m. – 7:00 p.m.
Cocktail Reception
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Specialty Silicones t Specialty Esters Delivery Systems Skin & Hair Moisture Complexes EXSYMOL S.A.M.: Silanols t Peptides GELYMA: Marine Cell Actives 201-825-8800 t www.biosiltech.com
Poster Competition & Prizes There will be a concurrent poster session.
1st place: $1,500
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2nd place: $1,000
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3rd place $500
For information regarding the poster session, please contact Bret Clark at rbclark@ashland.com.
Registration EARLY REGISTRATION – PRIOR TO May 15, 2014 Members Non-Members Students/Unemployed Early registration: $75 $125 $0 Late registration: $150 $200 $100 For registration, visit www.nyscc.org. For additional information regarding registration, please contact John Carola at JohnC@protameen.com. 12
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Hotel Accomodation Club Quarters World Trade Center, 140 Washington Street, New York, NY 10006 Arrival: June 4th • Departure: June 5th or 6th Club Standard Superior
June 4th – $271 June 4th – $291 June 4th – $311
June 5th – $236 June 5th – $256 June 5th – $276
All rates are exclusive of tax and based on single occupancy. There is a charge of $15 for each additional person, age 12 and over. Individuals can call or e-mail directly to our Member Services Department to make room reservations. Member Services can be reached at (203) 905-2100 from Monday – Friday, 7:00 a.m.–11:00 p.m. and Saturday, 10:00 a.m.–6:00 p.m. (EST); or via e-mail at memberservices@clubquarters.com. Please mention that you will be attending the NYSCC Antioxidant Symposium at the New York Academy of Sciences.
Transportation to the World Trade Center
n NYSCC Bus Service The NYSCC will be offering complementary bus service to this event. Buses will be available and leave promptly at 8:00 a.m. from two locations in New Jersey: • Parking lot behind Harold’s New York Deli: 3050 Woodbridge Avenue, Edison, NJ (Right by Edison Hotel) • Garden State Plaza: Between Chili’s and Candy store. Left corner near service road. Attendees planning on utilizing the NYSCC bus service must reserve a seat. Please contact Yelena Zolotarsky for reservations at yelenazol@aol.com. Please write ‘Edison, NJ Bus’ or ‘Garden State Plaza Bus’ in the subject title. n New York • • •
City Subway 2, 3 to Park Place A, C to Chambers Street 4, 5 or J, Z to Fulton Street
• E to World Trade Center • R to Cortlandt Street
n PATH Rail System Fares on the PATH system are $2.25 per trip. Service to the World Trade Center is available from Newark Penn Station, Jersey City, and Hoboken in New Jersey. When you arrive at WTC, the Vesey Street exit will put you just in front of 7 World Trade Center. n Symposium Location The New York Academy of Sciences 7 World Trade Center, 250 Greenwich Street, 40th Floor, New York, NY 10007-2157 (212) 298-8600 V O L U M E
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Employment Opportunities Send employment ads to…Jason O’Neill (Jason.Oneill@kemin.com). Employment listings published in the Cosmetiscope are abridged due to space limitations. 3/25/14 n ACCOUNT MANAGER; EAST REGION This position is a field sales position and covers Florida to Connecticut. The preferred candidate should live in the Northeast near a major airport. The position of Account Manager is to effectively manage a mixture of both strategic and regional direct accounts for BASF Home & Personal Care to achieve or exceed the agreed upon sales plan. The individual has significant responsibility for providing strong leadership of revenue and profit objectives, and enhancing the business within the Eastern Region. Activities may require account management of customers with operations outside of North America. This includes key account relationships, account planning, pipeline development, customer satisfaction, and support of all major sales and growth initiatives. Principal responsibilities: • Accountable for managing a territory in order to achieve or exceed an agreed business plan. Expected to accomplish through a collaborative selling approach. • Demonstrate managerial courage by leading cross functional teams to develop strategic approaches for key regional accounts that will show return above market growth. • Negotiate significant customer contracts as appropriate. • Formulate territory sales plans and develop accurate monthly forecasts. • Provide effective communication to Marketing, Technical, Supply Chain, and Product Management to achieve sales targets. Qualifications: • BASF recognizes institutions of Higher Education which are accredited by the Council for Higher Education Accreditation or equivalent. • B.A./B.S. degree in Chemistry, Chemical Engineering, or related field (Science and Technology) is required. 5+ years sales/marketing or business management experience with diverse customer relationships is required. • Home and Personal care management experience is strongly preferred. Indepth knowledge of the Home and Personal Care markets is preferred. • Must have experience leading cross functional teams to achieve sales growth. • This individual must also possess superior communication, interpersonal, influencing, and presentation skills, with the ability to interact with key decision makers at all levels of management, both internal and external. • Must be willing and able to travel up to 30%-60%, primarily domestic and depending on your location. Apply online at: http://jobs.basf.us/job/Florham-Park-Account-ManagerEast-Region-Job-NJ-07932/49228300/. _________________________________________________________________ 3/25/14 n SENIOR SALES EXECUTIVE – PERSONAL CARE Bio-Botanica, Inc., located in Hauppauge, NY, is seeking a dynamic and focused salesperson with a minimum of three years experience selling raw materials to food, flavor, beverage, and/or supplement industries. Responsibilities: • Present and sell company products to potential clients in personal care and cosmetic industries. • Prepare action plans and schedules to identify specific targets and to project the number of contacts to be made. • Generate new leads and referrals. • Prepare a variety of status reports, including activity, closings, follow-up, and adherence to goals.
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• Communicate new product and service opportunities, special developments, information, or feedback gathered through field activity to appropriate company staff. • Participate in marketing events such as seminars, trade shows, and telemarketing events. • Coordinate shipping schedules and delivery of merchandise and services when required. Requirements: • Experience selling in the personal care and cosmetic industries is a MUST. (Min. 3-5 years of experience preferred.) • Existing relationships and contacts in theses industries with Purchasing, R&D, and Marketing personnel is VERY IMPORTANT. • Ability to create, compose, and edit written materials. • Strong interpersonal and communication skills. Knowledge of advertising and sales promotion techniques. • Work requires travel to current and potential clients throughout North America, and other countries. • Please send considerations and resume to msysler@bio-botanica.com. _________________________________________________________________ 3/25/14 n RESEARCH ASSOCIATE, CONSUMER SCIENCES Reckitt Benckiser is a global success story in Health, Hygiene, and Home products. Our success is led by notable brands like Lysol, Durex, Clearasil, Finish, Mucinex, Woolite, and Resolve that aim to achieve global market leadership. Reckitt Benckiser is looking for a Research Associate to provide ongoing R&D support to the North American Consumer Sciences Group. Duties: • Actively contribute towards the development of consumer-preferred products, from concept ideation through to realization, to enable delivery of the Health, Hygiene, and Home Innovation Pipeline. • Explore new and existing technologies and apply creative thinking to their application in consumer relevant innovation. • Access consumer knowledge from around the globe, ensuring that benefits afforded by novel technologies are relevant and appreciated by consumers in both developed and developing markets. • Create new NPD initiatives through technology scouting activities, information gathering, and assessment of technical potential within Health, Hygiene, and Home. • Coordinate the appropriate qualitative and quantitative consumer research studies (i.e. focus groups, ethnography, etc.) for new concepts and preliminary prototypes. • Responsible for compilation, questionnaire design, data analysis, and report making. Qualifications: • B.S./B.A. degree in a related field and 5 years experience; or M.S. degree in a related field and 3 years experience; or Ph.D. in a related field and 1 year experience. • Experience in consumer research. • Strong experience in fundamental qualitative and quantitative market research studies including focus group facilitation, ethnography, one-on-one interviews and consumer survey design. Please apply online at http://bit.ly/1eMfRad.
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3/25/14 n R&D ASSOCIATE, GERM PROTECTION & PERSONAL CARE Reckitt Benckiser is a global success story in Health, Hygiene, and Home products. Our success is led by successful brands like Lysol, Durex, Clearasil, Finish, Veet, Woolite, and Resolve that aim to achieve global market leadership. We are looking for a Research Associate to join our Product Development Center in Montvale, NJ. The ideal candidate should be career oriented, selfmotivated, driven, and innovative. Responsibilities: • Develop new products and technologies based on relevant consumer insights in support of brand initiatives. • Represent R&D on key projects through the product development process. • Work cross-functionally and be R&D lead on project teams to achieve key milestones and objectives. • Collaborate with Marketing to develop, prioritize, and execute project portfolio. • Lead and advance multiple projects through front-end product development. • Develop technical product strategies to support product development and short-term and long-term innovation. Qualifications: • B.S./B.A. degree in a related science and 5 years experience; or M.S. degree in a related science and 3 years experience; or Ph.D. in a related science and 1 year experience. • Experience and/or proven track record of successful delivery of technical projects in a FMCG company. • Strong understanding of the product development process, from concept ideation to launch. • Proven project management skills. • Strong formulation knowledge and understanding of chemical interactions. • Understanding of intellectual property, licensing, and competitive intelligence. Please apply online at http://bit.ly/PLNfZj. _________________________________________________________________ 3/12/14 n KEY ACCOUNT MANAGER – GLOBAL ACCOUNTS Kemin Personal Care, a division of Kemin is looking for a Key Account Manager to work with global accounts that is based on the East Coast in the Tri-state area. Kemin is a profitable and progressive, privately held international company headquartered in Des Moines, Iowa (USA) with a vision to “improve the quality of life by touching half the people of the world every day with our products and services.” Responsibilities: • Develop the market for Kemin Personal Care products and achieve sales and margin targets. • Build an initial base of sales and gross margin in accordance with annual sales targets and budgets. • Developing customer based strategic plans for new and existing customers. • Establishing relationships with individuals at all levels of a customer’s organization. • Working with distributors to maximize their success at selling KPC products. • Making technical sales presentations on Kemin programs/products. • Closing the sale and implementing startup programs. Requirements: • University graduate with 7-10 years previous experience in technical sales in the personal care industry. • Excellent interpersonal skills with ability to build and maintain strong professional relationships. • A reliable, flexible, self-starter with strong initiative and the ability to
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maintain a professional demeanor while working under pressure as there is a high level of accountability for one’s work. • High degree of energy, self-starter, and risk-taker. • Experience in the natural segment desired. • A solid understanding of the chemical and biological sciences in order to prepare and present detailed technical and commercial presentations to prospective customers. • Prior experience in managing sales projects to successful completion. • Proficiency with technology tools, including CRMs, Microsoft Office products, and database development programs. Interested applicants who fit the job criteria should submit resume, cover letter, and salary expectations to: Kemin – Human Resources 2100 Maury Street – PO Box 70 Des Moines, IA 50306-0070 Apply on line at: http://www.kemin.com/careers. _________________________________________________________________ 3/12/14 L’Oréal USA, has multiple opportunities at their Clark, NJ location. L’Oréal USA, based in New York, NY, is a subsidiary of L’Oréal, headquartered in Paris, France. L’Oréal develops and manufactures hair care, hair color, skincare, color cosmetics, and fragrances for the consumer and professional markets. Established in 1909 by visionary scientist, Eugene Schueller, L’Oréal is committed to progressive research and development, state-of-the-art manufacturing, quality products, and making beauty accessible to everyone around the world. n MANAGER ETHNIC HAIR DEVELOPMENT LABORATORIES – RESEARCH & INNOVATION General responsibilities: • Responsible for all elements of category product development from negotiation of feasibility with Marketing (Product Development) to commercialization. • Assists Assistant Vice-president in planning, initiating, coordinating, and analyzing new product development programs. • Monitors and controls all work against departmental project goals and objectives. • Evaluates technical staff based upon performance compared to the above goals and objectives. • Supervises junior-level development staff including priority setting, performance appraisals, and training/development. • May serve as a “creative catalyst” at the R&I/Marketing interface meetings. • Identifies issues with new/existing products for R&I management. • Coordinates scale-up and initial successful commercial manufacture of new products with L’Oréal USA or contract manufacturers. • Maintains awareness of new technical or marketing opportunities from scientific and technical literature and publications. • Identifies opportunities to achieve efficiency in plant manufacturing with innovative processing/filling technology, and/or alternate raw material sources. Requirements: • B.S. in Chemistry or related science; Master’s or Ph.D. is preferred. • Minimum of 7+ years experience in the cosmetics industry, specifically in formulation of products with active ingredients. • Supervisory experience required. • Must be able to prioritize, handle multiple projects, and efficiently work with various groups within a matrix organization in a fast pace environment. (Continued on page 16)
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Employment Opportunities • Must be adept at giving technical presentations to large groups of professionals. • Fluency in the French language strongly preferred. • Must have long-term authorization to work in the U.S. Candidates can apply directly via the link below to access L’Oréal’s career page: https://careers.peopleclick.com/careerscp/client_thebodyshop/loreal_ext/gatew ay.do?functionName=viewFromLink&jobPostId=64166&localeCode=en-us. _____________________
n SR. CHEMIST ETHNIC HAIR DEVELOPMENT LABORATORIES – RESEARCH & INNOVATION Job Summary: • Responsible for creative and technical development of Ethnic Hair Styling & Hygiene Products. • Maintains close awareness of scientific literature, patents, raw material technology, processing methodology, and marketing/consumer trends required to perform innovative product development assignments in an efficient manner. Responsibilities: • Experienced researcher; independently manages multiple formulation projects from inception to meet launch deadlines under minimal supervision. • Independently creates and refines formulas; Monitor the stability, quality, and conformity of formulas. • Identifies raw materials and technologies suitable for product development. • May mentor technical staff on project basis; Acts as resource in lab for advice and support. • Demonstrates creativity and resourcefulness in proactively identifying and proposing solutions to issues that may arise during product development, or in transfer to manufacturing. • Interfaces with support groups including marketing, analytical, demi-grand, microbiology, and pilot. Requirements: • B.S. degree in Chemistry, Biochemistry, Materials Science, or ChemE with 5+ years of experience (Master’s degree with 2+ years) in product formulation in personal care or household products. • Experience with surfactants is a plus. • Intermediate knowledge of product innovation and development processes. • Good communication skills (oral, written, presentation). • Strong analytical, problem solving, and project management skills. • Intermediate knowledge of applicable IT and laboratory systems. Candidates can apply directly via the link below to access L’Oréal’s career page: https://careers.peopleclick.com/careerscp/client_thebodyshop/loreal_ext/gatew ay.do?functionName=viewFromLink&jobPostId=67482&localeCode=en-us. _____________________
n ASSOCIATE CHEMIST ETHNIC HAIR DEVELOPMENT LABORATORIES – RESEARCH & INNOVATION Responsible for creative and technical development of Ethnic Hair Styling & Hygiene Products. Maintains close awareness of scientific literature, patents, raw material technology, processing methodology, and marketing/ consumer trends required to perform innovative product development assignments in an efficient manner. Oversees a safe and orderly laboratory environment. Responsibilities: • Under close supervision, completes tasks as directed. Adheres to set objectives and standards. • Develops and refines formulas; keeps lab notebook; performs product stability on all formulas.
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• Investigate/research problems/issues and bring them to the attention of supervisor. • Demonstrates creativity and resourcefulness in proactively identifying and proposing solutions to issues that may arise during product development or in transfer to manufacturing. • May interface with technical support groups including analytical, demigrand, microbiology, and pilot. Requirements: • Intermediate communication skills (oral, written, presentation). • Basic formulation, analytical, problem solving, and project management skills. • Basic laboratory skills. • Basic knowledge in relevant scientific and technical field /métier. • Basic knowledge of applicable IT and R&I laboratory systems. Candidates can apply directly via the link below to access L’Oréal’s career page: https://careers.peopleclick.com/careerscp/client_thebodyshop/loreal_ext/gatew ay.do?functionName=viewFromLink&jobPostId=63857&localeCode=en-us. _________________________________________________________________ 3/12/14 n MANAGER – PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT The StriVectin Operating Company has an opportunity for a Manager of Product Development based in New York, NY. Job Summary: • Create and deliver highly efficacious products for a prestige skin care line. • Drive product development from concept to delivery. • Oversee the conceptualization, initiation, development, evaluation, and follow through of all new product launches. Responsibilities: • Oversee R&D development for all new product concepts. • Manage formulation process from concept to final approval. • Manage third party manufacturers/vendors in the formulation process. • Oversee all stability, micro, safety, and clinical testing. • Work closely with clinical testing houses to design test protocols that will help achieve the desired product claims. • Must have knowledge of current trends, technology, and active ingredients used in prestige skin care. Background in raw material actives is a plus. • Participate in ideation, development and commercialization projects. • Collaborate with Marketing, Sales, Operations, and Creative departments to develop copy, brochures, training manuals, etc. • Strong organization skills required. Requirements: • B.S. degree in Biology, Biochemistry, or Chemistry required. • 5 years minimum experience in product development in skin care R&D to include formulation/bench experience. • Well organized, self motivated with the ability to work independently and cooperatively. • Ability to handle multiple tasks simultaneously. • Strong problem solving and analytical skills. • Strong verbal and written communication skills. • Ability to work in a fast pace environment. For further inquiries, please contact Morgan Burke at: mburke@strivectin.com. Apply online at: http://www.strivectin.com/jobs/manager,_product_development.html.
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