The science of skin of color focuses on understanding the morphological, physicochemical, and clinical characteristics of skin in individuals with varying levels of pigmentation It is especially important in dermatology and in the development of personal care products when diagnosing and treating individuals with darker skin tones. Historically, more research has been conducted on lighter skin types, which has led to gaps in the knowledge base of our scientific understanding for skin types containing higher levels of melanin In this article, we highlight distinct characteristics of melanated skin and address differences as compared to non-melanated skin
n Geographic-Ethnic Origins of Skin of Color
Skin of color refers to a broad range of people coming from various ethnic and racial groups including African, Hispanic/Latino, Asian, Middle Eastern and North African, Indigenous Peoples, Pacific Islanders, and Multiracial Individuals 1 African descent refers to individuals often categorized as Africans, African Americans, and Afro-Caribbeans. Hispanic/Latino usually refers to someone from a Latin American country who is Indigenous, Mestizo (multi-racial), or Afro-Latino. People of Asian descent include East Asians (e.g., China or Japan), Southeast Asians (Philippines, Thailand, V ietnam, etc ), and South Asians (India, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, Bangladesh) Indigenous Peoples refers to Native Americans, Indigenous Australians, Alaskan Natives, and other indigenous groups Some researchers suggest not using the ter ms ethnic, Hispanic, or Asian to describe skin of color since they refer to non-specific groups of people.2
n Classification of Skin Tone
Typically, skin tone is categorized by the Fitzpatrick skin type scale according to its color and response to UV radiation (see Table 1). It should be noted that the Fitzpatrick scale broadly classifies Type V and VI skin and should be updated and expanded to better represent darker skin tones 3, 4 The reader should keep in mind that other scales, based on instrumental measurements, have also been proposed as a means to characterize skin color type.5
Table 1. Fitzpatrick Skin Classification System
Skin Type Skin Color
I Very fair, pale white skin
II Fair skin
III Medium or olive skin
IV Olive or light brown skin
V Brown or dark brown skin
VI Dark brown or black skin
Response to UV Radiation
Always bur ns; never tans
Usually bur ns; minimal tanning
Sometimes bur ns; tans unifor mly
Rarely bur ns; tans easily
Very rarely bur ns; tans very easily
Never bur ns; deeply pigmented (continued on Page 6)
In a New York minute it will be fall, and what a hot summer it has been for NYSCC. Following our very successful Sunscreen For mulations Symposium in May, I had the honor of representing the NYSCC as a presenter at Spelman College’s inaugural Black Beauty STEMinist Lab
Intensive and Symposia This weeklong event hosted students from 15 colleges and universities to provide hands-on laboratory experience in beauty for mulation and exposure on a wide range of topics while celebrating the contributions of Black women in cosmetic science
We also ended June with a well-received webinar on diverse beauty rituals, with each speaker talking about the unique ingredients from their part of the world and culture.
Our summer activities offered great opportunities for networking and fun Many foursomes enjoyed a wonderful day at the beautiful Crystal Springs Golf Course in Hamburg, New Jersey for our annual Golf Outing in July, and the nine students of the NYSCC Inter nship Program were introduced to the Chapter Hurricane Debby blew through just in time to spare our Fishing Trip and first ever Seafood Boil on August 10th. It was a gorgeous day on the water as attendees fished and ended the day with delicious crab legs and shrimp
Looking ahead, there are some exciting educational programs planned in the next three months:
• September 10th: Skin Care Inclusivity: Caring for Melanated Skin Symposium
• October 15th: Emerging Trends in Oral Health and Beauty
• November 7th: Pet Care and Grooming
• November 14th: Hear from the CEW Supplier’s Award Judges on this Year’s Top Ingredients & For mulations
This month we also have our Culinary Event on September 18th at the Midtown Loft and Terrace This popular event promises to diversify your palette Sign up soon! This event will sell out very quickly.
The NYSCC continues its collaboration and support of “sister” chapters with board members and Suppliers’ Day team members at the SWSCC Suppliers’ Day in Irving, Texas, IFSCC Congress in Brazil, Naturally Kiawah Symposium in Kiawah Island (South Carolina), and National’s Scientific Meeting and Showcase in Los Angeles
Check out all the programs the NYSCC will be supporting this fall in our promotion on page 4 We strive to offer the very best to our members and the cosmetic chemistry community on a global scale We certainly have you covered!
It has been an honor to serve on the CEW Beauty Awards Nominating Committee and I can’t wait to see who will be revealed as finalists at their Beauty Expo on September 18th. The NYSCC will be there as well to showcase the eight finalists of the Supplier’s Award for Ingredients and For mulation
Our special events team is deep in planning mode for our 70th Anniversary Gala and Education Night event Taking place on November 16th at the iconic Plaza Hotel, this will truly be a night to remember as we celebrate our past and all that we have achieved as a Chapter and look to the future of cosmetic science. We will also be announcing the recipients of the Scholarship and Grant Awards, Chapter Merit Awards, and new special prizes
Lastly, it is election time and ballots will be going out soon for our 2025 Board of Directors Please be on the lookout and cast your vote
W ith a wide range of educational programming and activities planned for the final months of the year, I look forward to seeing you at an upcoming NYSCC event
NYSCC Culinary Event
September 18, 2024
5:30 – 9:00 p.m.
The Midtown Loft & Terrace 267 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY
It’s that time of year again! Join us at the NYSCC Annual Culinary Event. Enjoy delicious creations and lear n culinary tips while connecting with NYSCC members! Vegetarian options are available.
Proudly Sponsored by
Agenda
Event Organizer: Johanna Gigliotti (Johanna@deverauxspecialties com)
5:45 p m Registration
6:00 p.m. Cocktail Hour
7:00 p.m. Culinary Experience
8:00 – 9:00 p m Dinner and Networking
Ticket Prices
Members
To register, visit the Events section of the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org)
2025 NYSCC Social Media Chair –
Open
Position
Are you passionate about both social med cosmetic science? Join our dynamic team 2025 Social Media Chair and play a pivot role in amplifying our mission! As the Social Media Chair, you'll har ness your creativity and strategic thinking to drive engagement, share cuttingedge cosmetic science developments, and inspire a community dedicated to advancing ethical and innovative beauty solutions This is your chance to blend your love for digital storytelling with meaningful advocacy, all while supporting a cause that makes a difference. If you ' re ready to lead our social media efforts and make an impact, we’d love to hear from you! Plea contact socialmedia@nyscc org by October 1, 20
The Science of Skin of Color
n Skin Pigmentation
Melanin is the major pigment in skin and is produced by melanocytes dendritic cells located in the stratum basal layer of the viable epider mis Melanin is further classified as eumelanin (brown and black pigment) and pheomelanin (red and yellow pigment). As would be expected, higher levels of eumelanin in skin lead to darker skin tones Greater amounts of pheomelanin are found in individuals with very fair (Type I) skin.
Figure 1: Structure of a melanocyte RER = rough endoplasmic reticulum; SER = soft endoplasmic reticulum
Eumelanin and pheomelanin are produced from the amino acid tyrosine through a series of reactions with two crucial steps at the beginning of the biosynthesis pathway catalyzed by the enzyme tyrosinase In the first step, tyrosine is converted to dihydroxyphenylalanine (DOPA) followed by an oxidation reaction resulting in the for mation of dopaquinone In the third step of the reaction, dopaquinone can follow one of two possible pathways it can continue with the melanin synthesis pathway or react with cysteine leading to the production of pheomelanin
Molecules of melanin are packaged into melanosomes small organelles that are deposited by melanocytes into neighboring keratinocyte cells for ming a microparasol above the cell nuclei The epidermal melanin unit relies on proper communication between melanocytes and epidermal keratinocytes to ensure proper physiological function of the skin. The distribution and size of melanosomes are important for deter mining skin color Typically, in darker skin the melanosomes are larger and more dispersed 6 The function of melanin, especially eumelanin, is to absorb incoming UV and visible light thereby protecting the DNA in replicating keratinocytes of the stratum basal layer 7 On the other hand, pheomelanin can acts as a photosensitizer, causing damaging free radical reactions to occur in skin when exposed to solar radiation.8
In addition to eumelanin and pheomelanin, there are many other chromophores in the skin These include nucleotides from DNA and RNA, amino acids (tryptophan, tyrosine, phenylalanine, and cysteine), lipofuscins, beta-carotene, hemoglobin, NADH, NADPH, flavins, 7-dihydrocholesterol, and trans-urocanic acid While most of these molecules primarily absorb UV radiation, some of them also have significant absorption profiles in the visible region of the electromagnetic spectrum Beta-carotene, hemoglobin, and lipofuscins influence the color and appearance of lighter and darker skin
Melanin (a mixture of eumelanin and pheomelanin) has strong absorbance in the UV region of the electromagnetic spectrum which decreases monotonically into the visible region of the spectrum It is important to note that UVB (280 – 320 nm) and UVA (320 – 400 nm) light are responsible for damage to DNA in skin cells, which could ultimately lead to carcinomas Therefore, a greater degree of protection from UV damage is provided in skin with greater amounts of melanin UVB damage to nucleotide bases predominantly involves the for mation of cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers as well as other cross-linked structures (pyrimidine-pyrimidone (6–4) photoproducts) of double helical DNA strands DNA damage by UVA light involves free radicals that are for med due to solar exposure. In summary, melanin absorbs UV light reducing the amount of light available to cause DNA mutations
Melanin also offers protection against photoaging It has free radical scavenging activity, allowing it to neutralize free radicals, thereby averting (or reducing) oxidative processes har mful to the skin In addition, melanin absorbs UVA light, preventing it from penetrating deep into the der mis and damaging elastin and collagen, which are essential for maintaining skin fir mness and elasticity. Further more, melanin
plays a role in modulating inflammation in sun-exposed skin. Chronic inflammation can be detrimental to skin homeostasis
While melanin does provide skin of color greater protection, individuals with darker skin still need to use sunscreen to protect the skin from photoaging, hyperpigmentation, and skin cancer.
n Biophysical Characteristics of the Epider mis
The amount of melanin in darker, as compared to lighter skin, is the most striking distinction between different skin types However, there are other facets of skin structure that are unique in darker skin For example, the stratum cor neum in darker skin is more compact (ca 20 vs 16 cell layers) than white skin, although its thickness is comparable.9 In addition, sebum production was reported as greater in African American skin than Caucasian skin 10 La Ruche and Cearini reported that the electrical resistance of black skin is greater than white skin, which could explain why black epider mis is less hydrated than white epider mis 11 Studies have even shown that there are differences in skin of color and light skinned subjects in ter ms of lipid levels, transepider mal water loss (TEWL), pH, and mast cell granule size However, some of these studies present conflicting data and have a limited pool of subjects.12 Overall, there is a pressing need to conduct more studies to better elucidate differences and similarities among various ethnic/racial groups. Recently, Salminen and coworkers published a study highlighting the use of reconstructed tissues with various degrees of pigmentation to investigate human skin barrier function and penetration of cosmetic and phar maceutical ingredients as a preclinical tool for different skin types 13
Figure 2: Molecular structure of a repeating portion of eumelanin It is primarily composed of a polymer of dihydroxyindole and dihydroxyindole carboxylic acid
n Common Der matological Conditions in Skin of Color
There are several different conditions where individuals with skin of color are more adversely affected than their counterparts with lighter skin In general, melanated skin is more adversely affected by a number of common skin conditions. In the sections below, we highlight several skin ailments that disproportionally affect individuals with skin of color, which includes hyperpigmentation, depigmentation, acne vulgaris, keloids, and dry skin conditions 14, 15
Diagnosis of certain skin diseases can be a challenge in skin of color patients.16, 17 Some skin conditions may appear differently in darker skin, leading to misdiagnosis or delayed diagnosis 18 In addition, treatment protocols can be unique for each skin tone. For instance, laser treatments must be carefully chosen to avoid adverse effects on melanin-rich skin Finally, it is important to understand the cultural perceptions of skin conditions and to be aware of the psychological impact on the patient.
• HYPERPIGMENTATION
Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), melasma, and lentigines are the most common hyperpigmentation conditions in skin of color (e.g., skin Type V and VI) and tend to be more pronounced than in lighter skin tones Protease activator receptor-2 is thought to play an integral role in the development of hyperpigmentation It is a membrane-bound protein expressed in keratinocytes, which is involved in the transfer of melanosomes from melanocytes to keratinocytes.19, 20
PIH is a darkening or discoloration of the skin that appears after a wound has healed Several conditions can cause PIH including acne vulgaris, eczema, psoriasis, or trauma (cuts, bur ns, etc.). Treatment options for PIH consist of sun protection, topical treatments (hydroquinone, retinoids, (continued on Page 8)
vitamin C), chemical peels, and laser therapy 21-24 However, it should be pointed out that a comprehensive review of 41 studies representing 877 patients demonstrated that the current treatment protocols (e g , topical treatment, laser therapy, etc.) for PIH do not satisfactorily result in a complete response from the patient 25
Melasma is a condition characterized by discolored patches on the skin (usually brown or gray, brown) caused by exposure to UV radiation, hormonal changes, and genetic predisposition It most often appears in areas that are exposed to the sun Melasma is usually treated by exercising skin photoprotection (clothing, sunscreen, etc.), employing topical treatments (hydroquinone, tretinoin, corticosteroids, etc.), and carrying out der matological procedures (chemical peels, microder mabrasion, or laser therapy) Lentigines are often referred to as liver spots or age spots. They are darkened patches (typically brown or black) on the skin that are nor mally found in areas of the skin exposed to the sun In most cases, they are associated with photoaging or chronological aging Wearing sun protection can help prevent the for mation of lentigines Treatment options consist of topical treatments, cryotherapy, chemical peels, and laser therapy
• DEPIGMENTATION
Conditions such as vitiligo can be more noticeable and psychologically impactful in individuals with darker skin V itiligo results in the for mation of white patches on the skin due to the destruction of melanocytes in these regions of the skin. While the cause and associated mechanisms of vitiligo are not fully understood, it is known to be an autoimmune disorder where melanocytes are attacked by the immune system thereby preventing pigmentation from being produced. Currently, there is no cure for vitiligo However, some treatment options to help alleviate the discoloration of the skin include treatment with topical steroids, phototherapy, and skin grafting In recent years, attention has focused on melanocyte stem cell mobilization as another possibility to use in the treatment of vitiligo 26
•
ACNE VULGARIS
Acne vulgaris occurs when the pilosebaceous unit becomes obstructed with sebum and differentiated keratinocytes due to hyperkeratinization and excessive oil production, resulting in the for mation of comedones (obstruction of the pores that appear as small bumps on the surface of the skin) Comedones can be open (black heads) or closed (white heads), which are both non-inflammatory for ms of acne. On the other hand, if the comedones become infected by bacteria, they can develop inflammatory lesions such as papules, pustules, nodules, and cysts. Hypercolonization of the pilosebaceous duct by the bacterium Cutibacterium acnes (for merly Propionibacterium acnes) has traditionally been considered as mostly responsible for the ensuing bacterial infection
In the case of darker skin tone individuals affected by acne vulgaris, there can be significantly more scarring and hyperpigmentation The for mation of inflammatory lesions is more common in skin of color individuals. PIH occurs after the acne wound has healed resulting in the overproduction of melanin (hyper melanonsis) In a comparative study, PIH due to acne was shown to be more prevalent in African American (65%) and Hispanic (48%) women than in Asian (18%), Caucasian (25%), and Continental Indian (10%) women 27
Figure 3: Molecular structure of a repeating portion of pheomelanin, which contains benzothiazine units
Treating skin of color for acne vulgaris can be challenging for der matologists Special care should be taken to ensure that treatment is mild since darker toned skin is more susceptible to PIH. For example,
topical treatments such as benzoyl peroxide, retinoids, and azelaic acid can be used, but lower concentrations should be employed Oral medications for acne treatment consist of antibiotics, contraceptives, and spironolactone Oral contraceptives and spironolactone are hor monal modulating treatments and can help reduce the risk for PIH. Care should also be taken when treating melanated skin with lasers or chemicals, again to avoid hyperpigmentation
•
KELOIDS
People with darker skin are more prone to developing keloids and hypertrophic scars A keloid is an overgrowth of scar tissue Essentially, it is for med due to the overproduction of collagen and the extracellular matrix during the healing process. Once for med, keloids can continue to grow and become much larger in size While keloids are not necessarily har mful, patients find them irritating due to itchiness (pruritis) and pain. Equally important, there is a significant psychosocial impact experienced by patients with keloids
Individuals with darker toned skin are markedly more susceptible to developing keloids Some of the current treatment options for keloids consist of corticosteroid injections, surgical excision, radiation therapy, laser therapy, silicone gel dressings, and cryotherapy One of the greatest challenges in the treatment of keloids is their tendency to recur. Looking towards future, there is a lot of activity reported in the der matological literature by research groups attempting to discover novel treatments for keloids 28
•
DRY SKIN CONDITIONS
There are certain dry skin ailments that individuals with melanated skin are more prone to develop or have unique presentation of the condition than the lighter skin population. For example, xerosis is a common condition that results in ashy patches on the skin, which are especially notable in populations of African descent Atopic der matitis (eczema) is generally more severe in darker skin toned subjects 29 Patients with a family history of eczema or other atopic diseases (asthma and hay fever) are more susceptible to suffering from atopic der matitis Another interesting point to note is that eczema appears differently in individuals with darker skin tones. For example, in lighter skin toned subjects, eczema can be clearly identified by the degree of redness In darker skin types, eczema may appear brown, purple, or even gray. Papular eczema is another condition that predominantly affects dark toned skin and manifests itself as small itchy bumps on the skin surface
n Photoprotection for Skin of Color
Typical measures for photoprotection consist of avoiding direct sunlight, wearing sun-protective clothing, using sunscreens, and minimizing exposure to the mid-day sun 30 One of the challenges with sunscreen use in skin of color individuals is the cosmetic appearance of inorganic sunscreens, which have become more important since recent FDA legislation categorized chemical sunscreens as NOT generally regarded as safe and effective (GRASE) 31
In light skinned individuals there is a plethora of knowledge and awareness about photoprotective measures However, in skin of color populations it is often incorrectly assumed that there are minimal health risks associated with exposure to solar radiation 32 In fact, skin of color populations can suffer from pigmentary disorders, photoaging, and skin cancer (basal cell carcinoma, squamous cell carcinoma, and melanoma)
While the development of skin cancer is less prevalent in skin of color subjects, melanoma has a greater degree of morbidity and mortality in this population.33 This is believed to occur because of late detection in skin of color patients possibly due to differences (as compared to light skinned subjects) in the anatomic locations and der matoscopic patter ns of pigmentary manifestations of disease, which makes it difficult to differentiate between physiologic and pathologic pigmentation patter ns 34
(continued on Page 10)
n Investigating Mechanisms of Pigment Modulating Active Ingredients
The biosynthesis of melanin is regulated by alpha-melanocortin (alpha-MSH) a peptide hor mone that binds to melanocortin 1 receptors (MC1R) on melanocytes Alpha-MSH also plays an important immunomodulatory role by reducing inflammation. It is an inhibitor of pro-inflammatory cytokines and promoter of anti-inflammatory cytokines This is especially important in inflammatory skin conditions, such as atopic der matitis and psoriasis. Mutations and variations in the MC1R gene affect the signaling ability of alpha-MSH and are ultimately responsible for the development of different pigmentation phenotypes, such as fair skin
Considerable efforts have been made to develop agonists (active ingredients), which stimulate pigment production in skin Such research is carried out with the aim to develop ways to increase skin pigmentation, thereby reducing the harmful effects of solar radiation on the skin. In addition, development of such actives provides us with the potential to treat vitiligo and other photosensitivity conditions
Typically, melanin modulating active ingredients are tested in the laboratory using a single type of pigmented reconstructed skin model or melanocyte line 35 Alter natively, one may use several skin model phototypes or melanocyte strains with varying degrees of pigmentation 35, 36 For example, Jackson and coworkers developed a pentapeptide, which mimics alpha-MSH, using two skin model phototypes to test its efficacy 36 This ingredient, now marketed in Europe as a self-tanning agent, has the INCI name: Benzoyl Dipeptide-18 D-Phenylalanyl Arginyl D-Tryptophan Dipropylamide Mesylate. In summary, researchers carrying out preclinical studies should consider using test systems with various degrees of pigmentation, in a similar manner to how a pigmentation clinical study would be designed
n Concluding Remarks
Skin of color populations are an important worldwide demographic that have unique der matological treatment and skin care needs. Most of our infor mation and understanding about the biological and physicochemical behavior of skin comes from a vast amount of research in the published literature primarily focused on light skinned subjects. The manifestation, diagnosis, and treatment of various conditions in skin of color individuals should be at the forefront of der matological and cosmetic science
n Acknowledgements
The author would like to express his sincere gratitude to Dr Gertrude-Emilia Costin, Ph D , MBA (Institute for In Vitro Sciences, Inc ); Dr Shadi Kourosh, M D , MPH (Harvard University); and Dr Gopinathan Menon, Ph.D. (Califor nia Academy of Sciences) for carefully reviewing the text and offering useful suggestions
n References
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(2) Torres, V ; Herane, M ; Costa, A ; Martin, J ; Troielli, P Refining the ideas of “ethnic” skin An Bras Der matol 2017, 92 (2), 221-225. DOI: 10.1590/abd1806-4841.20174846.
(3) Coleman, W ; Mariwalla, K ; Grimes, P Updating the Fitzpatrick classification: the skin color and ethnicity scale Der matol Surg 2023, 49 (8), 725-731 DOI: 10 1097/DSS 0000000000003860
(4) Lim, S.; Mohammad, T.; Kohli, I.; Hamzavi, I.; Rodrigues, M. Optimisation of skin phototype classification Pigment Cell Melanoma Res 2023, 36 (6), 468-471 DOI: 10 1111/pcmr 13110
(5) Del Bino, S.; Sok, J.; Bessac, E.; Ber nerd, F. Relationship between skin response to ultraviolet exposure and skin color type Pigment Cell Res 2006, 19 (6), 606-614 DOI: 10 1111/j 16000749.2006.00338.x.
(6) Naik, P ; Farrukh, S Influence of ethnicities and skin color variations in different populations: A review. Skin Phar macol Physiol 2022, 35 (2), 65-76. DOI: 10.1159/000518826.
(7) Costin, G ; Hearing, V Human skin pigmentation: melanocytes modulate skin color in response to stress. FASEB 2007, 21 (4), 976-994. DOI: 10.1096/fj.06-6649rev.
(8) Mariano, A ; Bigioni, I ; Scotto d'Abusco, A ; Baseggio Conrado, A ; Maina, S ; Francioso, A ; Mosca, L.; Fontana, M. Pheomelanin effect on UVB radiation-induced oxidation/nitration of ltyrosine Int J Mol Sci 2022, 23 (1), 267 DOI: 10 3390/ijms23010267
(9) Rawlings, A. Ethnic skin types: are there differences in skin structure and function? Int J Cosmet Sci 2006, 28 (2), 79-93 DOI: 10 1111/j 1467-2494 2006 00302 x
(10) Venkatesh, S ; Maymone, M ; Vashi, N Aging in skin of color Clin Der matol 2019, 37 (4), 351-357 DOI: 10 1016/j clinder matol 2019 04 010
(11) La Ruche, G ; Cesarini, J Histologie et physiologie de la peau noire Ann Der matol Venereol 1992, 119 (8), 567-574.
(12) Alexis, A.; Woolery-Lloyd, H.; W illiams, K.; Andriessen, A.; Desai, S.; Han, G.; Perez, M.; Roberts, W ; Taylor, S Racial/ethnic variation in skin barrier: Implications for skin care recommendations in skin of color. J Drugs Der matol 2021, 20 (9), 932-938. DOI: 10 36849/jdd 6312
(13) Salminen, A ; Manga, P ; Camacho, L Race, pigmentation, and the human skin barrier considerations for der mal absorption studies Front Toxicol 2023, 5, 1271833 DOI: 10.3389/ftox.2023.1271833.
(14) Bourgeois, J.; Beer, J.; Choi, S.; Bitar, C. Epidemiology of chronic der matologic conditions in skin of color J Drugs Der matol 2023, 22 (11), e21-e23 DOI: 10 36849/JDD 7131e
(15) Oninla, O ; Oninla, S ; Otike-Odibi, B ; Oripelaye, M ; Olanrewaju, F ; Mohammed, T African skin: different types, needs, and diseases Int J Trop Dis Health 2019, 36 (3), 1-13
DOI: 10 9734/ijtdh/2019/v36i330143
(16) Mitchell, K.; Tay, Y.; Heath, C.; Silverberg, N. Review article: Emerging issues in pediatric skin of color, part 2 Pediatr Der matol 2021, 39 (Suppl 2), 30-36 DOI: 10 1111/pde 14774
(17) Mitchell, K ; Tay, Y ; Heath, C ; Trachtman, R ; Silverberg, N Review article: Emerging issues in pediatric skin of color, part 1. Pediatr Der matol 2021, 38 (Suppl. 2), 20-29. DOI: 10 1111/pde 14775
(18) Francis, K Assessment and identification of skin disorders in skin of color: An integrative review J Wound Ostomy Continence Nurs 2023, 50 (2), 107-114 DOI: 10.1097/WON.0000000000000960.
(19) Seiberg, M.; Paine, C.; Sharlow, E.; Andrade-Gordon, P.; Costanzo, M.; Eisinger, M.; Shapiro, S. The protease-activated receptor 2 regulates pigmentation via keratinocyte-melanocyte interactions. Exp Cell Res 2000, 254 (1), 25-32. DOI: 10.1006/excr.1999.4692.
(20) Henehan, M.; De Benedetto, A. Update on protease-activated receptor 2 in cutaneous barrier, differentiation, tumorigenesis, and pigmentation, and its role in related der matologic diseases
(21) Anvery, N ; Christensen, R ; Dirr, M Management of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation in skin of color: A short review. J Cosmet Der matol 2022, 21 (5), 1837-1840. DOI: 10 1111/jocd 14916
(22) Nautiyal, A ; Wairkar, S Management of hyperpigmentation: Current treatments and emerging therapies. Pigment Cell Melanoma Res 2021, 34 (6), 1000-1014. DOI: 10.1111/pcmr.12986.
(23) Shenoy, A.; Madan, R. Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation: A review of treatment strategies. J Drugs Der matol 2020, 19 (8), 763-768 DOI: 10 36849/JDD 2020 4887
(24) Sowash, M ; Alster, T Review of laser treatments for post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation in skin of color Am J Clin Der matol 2023, 24 (3), 381-396 DOI: 10 1007/s40257-023-00759-7
(25) Kashetsky, N ; Feschuk, A ; Pratt, M Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation: A systematic review of treatment outcomes. J Eur Acad Der matol Venereol 2023, 38 (3), 470-479.
DOI: 10 1111/jdv 19566
(26) Birlea, S ; Costin, G ; Roop, D ; Norris, D Trends in regenerative medicine: Repigmentation in vitiligo through melanocyte stem cell mobilization Med Res Rev 2023, 37 (4), 907-935
DOI: 10 1002/med 21426
(27) Perkins, A.; Cheng, C.; Hillebrand, G.; Miyamoto, K.; Kimball, A. Comparison of the epidemiology of acne vulgaris among Caucasian, Asian, Continental Indian, and African American women. J Eur Acad Der matol Venereol 2011, 25 (9), 1054-1060.
DOI: 10 1111/j 1468-3083 2010 03919 x
(28) Betarbet, U ; Blalock, T Keloids: A review of etiology, prevention, and treatment
J Clin Aesthet Der matol 2020, 13 (2), 33-43 (continued on Page 12)
(29) Adawi, W ; Cor nman, H ; Kambala, A ; Henry, S ; Kwatra, S Diagnosing atopic der matitis in skin of color Der matol Clin 2023, 41 (3), 417-429 DOI: 10 1016/j det 2023 02 003
(30) Tsai, J ; Chien, A Photoprotection for skin of color Am J Clin Der matol 2022, 23 (2), 195-205 DOI: 10 1007/s40257-021-00670-z
(31) Bettenhausen, C Cloudy outlook for sunscreen ingredients in the US C&EN 2022, 100 (42), 13-15.
(32) Seck, S ; Hamad, J ; Schalka, S ; Lim, H Photoprotection in skin of color Photochem Photobiol Sci 2023, 22 (2), 441-456. DOI: 10.1007/s43630-022-00314-z.
(33) Munjal, A ; Ferguson, N Skin cancer in skin of color Der matol Clin 2023, 41 (3), 481-489 DOI: 10.1016/j.det.2023.02.013.
(34) Brunsgaard, E ; Wu, Y ; Grossman, D Melanoma in skin of color: Part I Epidemiology and clinical presentation J Am Acad Der matol 2023, 89 (3), 445-456 DOI: 10 1016/j jaad 2022 04 056
(35) Koikov, L ; Star ner, R ; Swope, V ; Upadhyay, P ; Hashimoto, Y ; Freeman, K ; Knittel, J ; HaskellLuevano, C ; Abdel-Malek, Z Development of hMC1R selective small agonists for sunless tanning and prevention of genotoxicity of UV in melanocytes. J Invest Der matol 2021, 141 (7), 1819-1829 DOI: 10 1016/j jid 2020 11 034
(36) Jackson, E ; Heidl, M ; Imfeld, D ; Meeus, L ; Schuetz, R ; Campiche, R Discovery of a highly selective MC1R agonists pentapeptide to be used as a skin pigmentation enhancer and with potential anti-aging properties. Int J Mol Sci 2019, 20 (24), 6143. DOI: 10.3390/ijms20246143.
NYSCC Celebrates!
In the spirit of this year ’ s theme of “Inspire Innovate Celebrate ” we are excited to launch “NYSCC Celebrates!”, a Cosmetiscope section that celebrates the accomplishments of NYSCC members The accomplishment could be something professional like a promotion or new degree, or something personal such as writing a book or winning/ placing in a major competition. This serves as a platfor m for our talented and multifaceted NYSCC members to proudly shine
If you would like to be featured in an upcoming “NYSCC Celebrates!”, please send your special accomplishment to:
• Roger McMullen (roger mcmullen@fdu.edu) and
• Amber Evans (chair@nyscc org)
We look forward to celebrating YOU!
NYSCC Golf Outing
July 29, 2024
Crystal Springs Resort, Hamburg, New Jersey
NYSCC Chapter Special Events
Since the beginning, special events have been part of the NYSCC calendar. “Ladies’ Night” is the earliest The following text is from 1956: “Ladies Night on April 25th featured Dr Er nest Guenther of Fritzsche Brothers, Inc. Dr. Guenther showed one of his latest movies along with colored slides of a trip around the world ” Er nest Guenther was a highly respected scientist He wrote a classic six volume work on essential oils, which was completed in 1952 and is still a standard work on the subject In the Summer 1975 NYSCC newsletter (the name Cosmetiscope was still in the future), we find “Our Special Events program this year includes three different activities: Pocono’s Weekend, Theatre Night, and Camping Trip.” A Special Events Committee was created but was abolished in 1977 due to lack of interest The most infamous special event in NYSCC history was the boat trip of 1979 (discussed in the February 2023 issue of Cosmetiscope) a success in ter ms of attendance but a financial disaster leading to the creation of Suppliers’ Day
In 1984 a social weekend was held at the Americana Great Gorge Resort with a technical paper presented on Saturday mor ning on the topic of hair care A number of years later, a December dinner dance was held in 1990 The NYSCC special events now are the Ski Trip (in conjunction with the Long Island Chapter), Fishing Trip, Golf Outing, and Culinary Event Some years in the past the golf outing included a separate tennis component. The earliest documented years of the current special events are: Ski Trip (1996 or earlier), Golf Outing (1996), Fishing Trip (1996), and Culinary Event (2008)
August 10, 2024
Atlantic Highlands, New Jersey
NYSCC Skin Care Inclusivity: Caring for Melanated Skin Symposium
September 10, 2024 • 9:00 a.m. – 6:30 p.m.
Fairleigh Dickinson University Florham Campus, Madison, NJ
Don’t miss this full-day symposium, which will include podium presentations from a line-up of inter nationally recognized experts in caring for melanated skin as well as a technology poster session for attendees to interact with researchers in the field The event will be held at the beautiful Fairleigh Dickinson University Florham Campus located in Madison, New Jersey The campus consists of 178 acres, which is the former country estate of early 20th-century socialites Florence Vanderbilt and Hamilton Twombly
n Symposium Sponors:
n Symposium Chair:
• Roger L. McMullen, Ph.D.
Ashland, Inc. and Fairleigh Dickinson University
e-mail: roger mcmullen@fdu edu
n Registration:
To register for this symposium, go to the Events section of NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org).
n Topics and Speakers:
9:00 – 9:15 a.m. Opening Remarks
2024 NYSCC Chair Amber Evans, Ph.D. and Event Chair Roger L. McMullen, Ph.D.
9:15 a m – 12:30 p m Mor ning Session
Moderated by James (Vince) Gruber, Ph.D.
9:15 – 9:45 a.m. Skin Color and Skin-of-Color
Miri Seiberg, Ph.D. (Seiberg Consulting)
9:45 – 10:15 a.m. Cosmetic Procedures in People of Color
Oma Agbai, M.D. (University of Califor nia – Davis)
10:15 – 10:45 a.m. Sun Protection in Individuals with Skin of Color
Rebecca Hartman, M.D., MPH (Brigham and Women’s Hospital, Harvard Medical School)
10:45 – 11:00 a.m. Break
11:00 – 11:30 a.m. Melanin Magic: It’s All About the Undertones
Desiree Rogers, MBA (Black Opal LLC) and Sam Fine (Emmy Award W inning Makeup Artist/Author)
11:30 a m – 12:00 p m Not the Regular Suspects: Pollution and Tobacco Now in the Same Cell with the Sun, All Accused of Ageing-Induced Pigmentation
Gertrude-Emilia Costin, Ph.D. (Institute for In Vitro Sciences, Inc )
12:00 – 12:30 p.m. Physicochemical Properties of Ethnic Hair
Roger L. McMullen, Ph.D. (Ashland, Inc and Fairleigh Dickinson University)
12:30 – 2:00 p m Poster Session and Lunch
2:00 – 5:15 p.m. After noon Session
Moderated by Toussaint Jordan, M.S.
2:00 – 2:30 p.m. The Dark Side of Skin Lightening: An Inter national Collaboration and Review of a Public Health Issue Affecting Der matology
2:30 – 3:00 p.m. Ethnic Differences in Appearance of Facial Ageing
Neelam Muizzuddin, Ph.D. (Skin Clinical Research Consultants, LLC)
3:00 – 3:30 p.m. Beyond Black and White: Insights on the Relationship Between Racial Bias and Skin Tone Bias
Jordan Daley, Ph.D. (New York University)
3:30 – 3:45 p.m. Break
3:45 – 4:15 p.m. Overview of Hyperpigmentation and Treatment Strategies in Personal Care
Esther Oluwaseun, M.S., MBA (YG Laboratories and University of Califor nia – Riverside Extension)
4:15 – 4:45 p.m. Melanoma Demographics and Survival in Skin of Color Patients
Sara Behbahani, M.D. (Massachusetts General Hospital and Brigham and Women’s Hospital, Harvard Medical School)
4:45 – 5:15 p.m. Evaluating the Effect of Iron Oxides and Ultramarine Blue on the Cosmetic Elegance, Sun Protective Efficacy, and Stability of Inorganic Sunscreens for Dark Skin
Alayna Bouie, MSPS (The University of Toledo)
5:15 – 5:20 p.m. Closing Remarks and Raffle
5:20 – 6:30 p.m. Cocktail Reception
n Symposium Location: Fairleigh Dickinson University
Florham Campus, Lenfell Hall (located in Hennessy Hall – #7 on the map) 285 Madison Avenue, Madison, New Jersey
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n Speaker Abstracts and Biographies:
Skin Color and Skin-of-Color
Miri Seiberg, Ph.D. (Seiberg Consulting)
Skin-of-color, or ethnic skin, is a non-specific ter m for the skins of a very heterogeneous group with non-Caucasian or darker color skins We will discuss differences in skin color and in many other skin properties and will emphasize the lack of correlation between the color of the skin and other skin properties It is the genetic and the ethnicity, not the skin color, that deter mines skin properties like UV response or skin aging.
n Miri Seiberg, Ph.D.
Miri Seiberg is a skin and hair R&D expert with a track record of research innovation She has initiated and managed research and development programs in the fields of skin and hair, resulting in novel drug candidates and successful consumer products (AVEENO, Neutrogena) Miri is involved in R&D projects of active ingredients, botanical extracts, skin health and aging, skin pigmentation, hair growth, hair pigmentation, skin cancer, skin diseases, wound healing, skin tissue engineering and regenerative medicine, and is supporting the development of drugs, devices and consumer products.
Miri Seiberg received her B Sc from Tel Aviv University, Israel, and her M Sc and Ph D from the Weizmann Institute of Science in Israel in collaboration with Princeton University She has authored more than 60 peer-reviewed publications, reviews, and book chapters, and has more than 100 patents Miri spent 20 years at the Johnson & Johnson Skin Research Center, where she received numerous awards, including the Johnson Medal, the most prestigious award given for research and development at Johnson & Johnson She is currently involved in skin and hair R&D consulting and in the development of botanicals for skin and hair unmet needs.
Cosmetic Procedures in People of Color
Oma Agbai, M.D., FAAD (University of Califor nia – Davis)
The intersection of aging occurring in a large segment of the U.S. population, increased life expectancy, a focus on appearance, and readily available and accessible cosmetic procedures have served to drive an increase in the number of non-surgical cosmetic procedures perfor med in the last 20 years. Demographic shifts in the U.S. with increases in diverse populations who seek nonsurgical cosmetic procedures infor ms the need for a better understanding of cultural preferences as well as structural and biological differences in the skin of people of color (POC). Although many advances in the for m of cosmeceuticals, cosmetics, and photoprotection have been made to address the aesthetic needs of and minimize complications in POC, non-surgical cosmetic procedures are required to address common aesthetic concer ns Gaps remain in the education of der matologists regarding appropriate selection and execution of non-surgical cosmetic procedures in POC
Cosmetic procedures can effectively treat cutaneous disorders of dyschromia, scarring, manifestations of photoaging, loose skin, and benign growths that commonly occur in POC The most sought-after aesthetic procedures include chemexfoliation, laser resurfacing, neuromodulators, soft tissue fillers, skin tightening, hair removal, and fat reduction Successful completion of cosmetic procedures includes an accurate assessment of the aesthetic skin of color patient as well as the implementation of safe treatment protocols. As cosmetic procedure advancements propel, der matologists have an obligation to train and research how to best curate treatment modalities to better suit their patients of color. This educational initiative will support a favorable outcome and optimal cosmetic results for patients of color
n Oma Agbai, M.D., FAAD
Dr. Oma Agbai is a Health Sciences Associate Clinical Professor of Dermatology and Director of Multicultural Dermatology and Hair Loss Disorders at the University of Califor nia, Davis School of Medicine in Sacramento, Califor nia She completed her Bachelor of Science degree at Emory University, obtained her Doctor of
Medicine degree at Temple University School of Medicine, and completed her Internal Medicine internship at Pennsylvania Hospital of the University of Pennsylvania She served as the C S Livingood Clinical Research Fellow in Der matology at Henry Ford Hospital, followed by Der matology residency at the University of Califor nia, Davis.
Dr Agbai has been involved in clinical research in pigmentary disorders, cicatricial alopecia, and skin of color dermatology. She is a co-author on many peer-reviewed articles published in high-impact medical jour nals, such as the Jour nal of the American Academy of Der matology, JAMA Der matology, and the British Jour nal of Der matology Additionally, Dr Agbai has presented at national scientific meetings relating to her clinical and research interests
Dr Agbai engages the Sacramento community through her regular appearances as a der matology contributor on the television program “Good Day Sacramento” and is regularly featured in educational articles for the public though national media outlets such as Prevention Magazine and The New York Times. Additionally, Dr. Agbai is a TEDx speaker and has been recognized by her peers as a Top Doctor in Sacramento, CA She is also a devoted wife and mother of three small children
Sun Protection in Individuals with Skin of Color
Rebecca Hartman, M.D., MPH (Brigham and Women’s Hospital, Harvard Medical School)
This presentation will broadly cover the evidence surrounding sun protection in individuals with skin of color, including indications for sun protection, potential considerations such as vitamin D absorption, current use patter ns, and optimal sun protection strategies.
n Rebecca Hartman, M.D., MPH
Dr Hartman is an epidemiologic and health services researcher and boardcertified der matologist. Her focus is on ways to improve outcomes for melanoma. She is especially interested in understanding and optimizing prevention/chemoprevention, screening/early detection, and treatment. She has clinical expertise in melanoma and provides dermatologic care for patients with all stages of melanoma at the Dana Farber Cancer Institute and the VA Boston Healthcare Center Dr Hartman ear ned an MPH degree and has conducted several epidemiologic and health services research projects with a focus on skin cancer She is presently seeking to analyze large datasets, using both traditional and genetic epidemiologic techniques, to improve our understanding of risk factors and prognosticators for the development of aggressive, potentially lethal skin cancers.
Melanin Majestic: It’s All About the Undertones
Desiree Rogers, MBA (Black Opal LLC) and Sam Fine (Emmy Award W inning Makeup Artist/Author)
Melanin Majestic: Understanding Undertones and Choosing the Right Makeup for Deeper Complexions emphasizes the importance of identifying skin undertones war m, cool, or neutral to select the perfect makeup. Unlike skin tone, which can vary, undertones remain consistent and significantly impact makeup selection, ensuring a har monious and natural look Black Opal (BLK/OPL) plays a crucial role by offering a range of products tailored to meet the diverse undertone needs of women of color. Failure to choose makeup based on undertones can result in an unnatural appearance and mismatched shades, highlighting the necessity of products that cater to these specific needs
n Desiree Rogers, MBA
Desiree Rogers is a leader, communicator, strategist, and connector She has redefined every leadership position she has held while playing a major philanthropic role in her communities Consistently acknowledged as an innovative leader with a proven track record, her expertise includes building stellar teams, delivering positive financial results, and repositioning iconic brands.
Desiree is currently the co-owner and CEO of Black Opal LLC, the parent company of Fashion Fair and Black Opal Beauty, which markets cosmetics and skin care to multicultural audiences The brands are widely
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distributed in the United States including Sephora and ULTA These brands are more than makeup companies, they are part of history with Fashion Fair redefining what it means to celebrate Black beauty
Her career milestones include positioning Chicago as a tourist destination through a world-wide digital campaign In 2018, Chicago was named the number one “Big City Destination” by Condé Nast Traveler. As the CEO of Johnson Publishing, she spearheaded the digital transfor mation of Ebony (2M unique visitors) and Jet magazines As the first Social Secretary for President Obama, Desiree’s grasp of experiential marketing and brand positioning ensured Americans were able to visualize the values they voted for inclusion, transparency, and diversity
Prior to these positions, Rogers professional roles include serving as President of Peoples Energy (now Integrys), the 2B dollar natural gas utility in Chicago, as well as leading executive teams at Allstate and the Illinois Lottery where she doubled instant ticket sales to 600M in three years
Desiree graduated from Wellesley College and Harvard Business School. She currently serves on two corporate boards Stagwell and Inspired Entertainment as well as the non-for-profit board of the American Cancer Society
n Sam Fine
What do superstars Queen Latifah, Vanessa L W illiams, Jennifer Hudson and supermodels Tyra Banks, Iman, and Naomi Campbell all have in common? They’ve relied on the expert hand of makeup artist Sam Fine to look their most glamorous That’s because Fine knows that the key to making up goes beyond painting a pretty face. Long before he became a celebrity makeup artist, the Chicago native paid his dues working behind the makeup counter of department stores, an experience he fondly refers to as “the real school of beauty”. There, he encountered women from all walks of life that wanted one thing to look their absolute best He made it his mission to show them how to accentuate their unique beauty by using colors and shades that would best complement their complexions. But most importantly he helped them eliminate their doubts and apprehension about applying makeup so that they too could achieve dazzling results
Fine’s talent and determination has taken him far from the makeup counter, making him one of today’s most sought-after makeup artists His work has appeared on the covers and pages of Cosmopolitan, Harper’s Bazaar, Essence, Vibe, and Marie Claire and was chosen as the first African American spokesperson for Revlon and Covergirl Cosmetics But it was the experiences from his for mative years selling makeup that inspired him to write his first book, Fine Beauty: Beauty Basics and Beyond for African American Women, a how-to guide highlighting his many accomplishments.
As follow-up to his best-selling book, Fine introduced his first instructional DVD, Fine: The Basics of Beauty. As a continuation of his commitment to educate women of color on the “fine” art of makeup, this step-by-step tutorial features three individual makeovers and addresses a myriad of beauty challenges by focusing on tools, technique, and product selection Sharing his wealth of experience and expertise, Fine enables viewers to fully understand all that goes into creating a flawless, natural-looking face.
Not the Regular Suspects: Pollution and Tobacco Now in the Same Cell with the Sun, All Accused of Ageing-Induced Pigmentation
Gertrude-Emilia Costin, Ph.D. and Katie Bouchard (Institute for In V itro Sciences, Inc )
Sun exposure has been classically considered the main contributory factor to hyper-pigmentation as a hallmark of extrinsic skin ageing Recent studies identified other detrimental exter nal factors such as air pollutants and tobacco that have similar actions to UV exposure and share several common intracellular pathways leading to increased melanin production The complexity of pollutants and tobacco smoke as environmental stress factors requires a thorough understanding of the mechanisms by which they alter melanin’s production through repeated and long-ter m exposure Identifying and deciphering the activity of the molecular factors within melanogenic signaling pathways in response to pollutants and tobacco provide support to the cosmetic industry in launching safe and efficacious
products to counteract their detrimental contribution to skin ageing.
Air pollutants impact skin pigmentation by induction of oxidative stress and upregulation of inflammatory markers and mediate their intracellular actions through modulation of Aryl hydrocarbon Receptors (AhR). Several lines of supportive experimental data point towards the action of tobacco on complex cholinergic and adrenergic signaling pathways that ultimately impact the melanin production in response to accumulated exposure over time. The phenomenal crosstalk between multiple signaling pathways by which sun, pollutants, and tobacco adversely affect skin pigmentation is ultimately possible by the activity of Microphthalmia-Associated Transcription Factor (MITF) a common denominator that facilitates the conversion of stress signals into hyper-pigmentation An analysis of available datasets generated by in vitro, in vivo, and clinical studies will also be presented, with emphasis on a diverse range of New Approach Methodologies (NAMs). NAMs-based study design considerations will be presented in support of their fit-for purpose use to address efficacy testing of ingredients or for mulations with potential to modulate molecular pathways gover ning skin pigmentation. These mechanistic experiments ultimately support the identification of raw ingredients and design of cosmetic products intended to counteract in a targeted manner the contribution of pollutants and tobacco to hyper-pigmentation within the extrinsic skin ageing profile.
n Gertrude-Emilia Costin, Ph.D.
Dr Gertrude-Emilia Costin joined Institute for In Vitro Sciences, Inc (IIVS) in 2007 and currently is the Director of Laboratory Services She oversees a wide range of safety and efficacy commercial studies and research projects using in vitro testing strategies. Her primary area of expertise is in the use of in vitro test methods for the der mal safety assessment of ingredients and final for mulations manufactured by the cosmetic, personal care, phar maceutical, chemical, or agrochemical industry Dr Costin promotes the use of in vitro efficacy assays investigating the anti-inflammatory or skin lightening potential of actives or finished products. Dr. Costin organizes, coordinates, and participates in IIVS educational workshops on non-animal research and in vitro assay systems Dr Costin received her Ph D (Cum laude) from the Institute of Biochemistry of the Romanian Academy, followed by postdoctoral training at the National Cancer Institute, National Institutes of Health (NIH) Prior to joining IIVS, Dr Costin worked as Senior Research Scientist for Avon Products, Inc – Global R&D
Physicochemical Properties of Ethnic Hair
Roger L. McMullen, Ph.D. (Ashland, Inc and Fairleigh Dickinson University) and Timothy Gillece (Ashland, Inc.)
Hair from various ethnicities or racial origins have unique physicochemical properties Interestingly, the amino acid composition is the same for all hair types, which has been reported in repeated amino acid analysis studies Asian hair has the most circular cross section while African hair is the most elliptical African hair has a lower radial swelling rate than Asian and Caucasian hair In ter ms of mechanical (tensile) properties, it is generally found that the break stress and elongation at break is lower in African hair than Asian and Caucasian hair The fracture point of the fiber in African hair during tensile measurements can occur in the twist or homogenous region of the fiber. African hair fibers with a larger diameter tend to have looser curls while fibers with thinner diameter tend to have a tighter curl It has also been shown that the lipid content is greater in African hair than other hair types.
In this presentation, we examine some of the differences in the various properties of hair from different ethnicities and attempt to understand how this influences the overall macroscopic behavior of a hair fiber assembly. We first examine the morphological and ultrafine structural characteristics of African and Caucasian hair We further investigate the lipid characteristics of African and Caucasian hair using FTIR imaging to map the lipid distribution within the cross section of hair. Using dynamic vapor sorption, we observe how the influence of the greater distribution of lipids in African hair might lend to its water management properties Finally, we take a profound look at the surface and inter nal structure of African hair using advanced SEM techniques, examining cross sections of hair and generating three-dimensional images of the fiber
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n Roger L. McMullen, Ph.D.
Roger has over 25 years of experience in the personal care industry with specialties in optics, imaging, and spectroscopy of hair and skin Currently, he is a Principal Scientist at Ashland, Inc. and leads the Material Science team. Roger has over 40 publications in peer-reviewed journals and textbooks He is also the author of Antioxidants and the Skin, 2nd edition and founded the online news magazine The Cosmetic Chemist In addition, Roger is the 2023 recipient of the SCC’s prestigious Maison G de Navarre award
Roger received a B.S. in Chemistry from Saint Vincent College and completed his Ph D in Biophysical Chemistry from Seton Hall University Roger is an Adjunct Professor at Fairleigh Dickinson University and teaches Biochemistry to students pursuing M.S. degrees in Cosmetic Science and Phar maceutical Chemistry
Prior to pursuing a career in science, Roger served in the U S Navy for four years on board the USS YORKTOWN (CG 48) He is fluent in Spanish and Catalan In addition to his professional activities, Roger is an avid bird photographer His work can be seen on Instagram at #roger mcmullen birdphotography
The Dark Side of Skin Lightening:
An International Collaboration and Review of a Public Health Issue Affecting Dermatology
Skin lightening (SL) for cosmetic reasons is associated with profound negative impacts on well-being and adverse effects on the skin, resulting in immense challenges for der matologists. Despite current regulations, lightening agents continue to dominate the cosmetic industry This session focuses on the findings of our inter national team of der matologists on the topic of skin lightening as a global public health issue, one of great concer n for health and implications of racism and colorism. Examining the practices of skin lightening in Africa, Asia, the Middle East, and the Americas, we aim to inspire a global discourse on how moder n der matologists and practitioners in various aspects of the skincare industry can work together with scientific evidence and cultural competency to serve and protect patients and consumers of diverse skin types and backgrounds In doing so, we hope to promote healthy skin and inclusive concepts of beauty in our patients and society
n Arianne Shadi Kourosh, M.D., MPH
Dr Shadi Kourosh is a board-certified der matologist and associate professor of der matology at Harvard Medical School She is a graduate of the Harvard T H Chan School of Public Health and the University of Texas Southwester n Medical Center, where she received the institution's awards in leadership, outstanding professionalism, and humanism as a physician.
Dr Kourosh serves as the der matology department’s director of community health, providing access to der matologic care for underserved communities She is the founding director of the Clinic for Pigmentary Disorders and Multi-Ethnic Skin at Massachusetts General Hospital (MGH) and Harvard Medical School, which she founded to create a medical home and center of clinical excellence for patients with darker skin types, and specifically address the skin challenges and concer ns for melanin rich skin She has many scientific papers on issues of pigmentation, keloids, and scarring, and the public health dangers of skin bleaching, and has published five books called the Facing Skin Conditions series (www.facingskinconditions.com), which help people that are newly diagnosed with conditions like vitiligo or keloid scarring understand how to navigate their treatment jour ney and live successfully with their skin conditions.
She is founder and director of the Radiance Clinic, MGH’s pro-bono tattoo removal program, assisting those seeking to escape gangs and human trafficking to be safe and reintegrate into society, which has won national awards for its impact She also advocates for patients at the national level in the AAD’s delegation to Congress to protect medical research and affordable care for patients with skin disease
Dr. Kourosh’s research at the intersection of dermatology and public health including her pioneering
work on Zoom dysmorphia, climate justice in the impacts of pollution on skin diseases and aging (especially in vulnerable populations), and on the skin signs of human trafficking has reached national and inter national impact, and has been featured on Today, The Daily Show, PBS, Fox News, and Boston Globe Media, and in Oprah Magazine, Reader’s Digest, Good Housekeeping, Consumer Reports, Allure, Harvard Magazine, The Huffington Post, and W ired magazine
Dr. Kourosh has won numerous awards, including Massachusetts General Hospital's Clinician-Teacher Award, Harvard Medical School's Dean's Community Service Award, the Er nesto Gonzalez Award for outstanding service to the Latino Community, and Boston's Top Doctors In 2020 she received the AAD's Presidential Citation for outstanding service during the COVID-19 crisis In 2022 and 2023, she received Presidential Citations from both the American Academy of Der matology and the American Society for Medicine and Surgery for her leadership of a national task force and multiple initiatives in the medical community to aid those affected by human trafficking, and she has been named one of Medscape's 25 Rising Stars in Medicine.
Ethnic Differences in Appearance of Facial Ageing
Neelam Muizzuddin, Ph.D. (Skin Clinical Research Consultants, LLC)
Variation in human skin color is a multifactorial trait with a number of major genetic deter minants, several modifier genes, environmental influences such as UV, inter nal hor monal influences, and other stresses like inflammation and barrier disruption Due to their high skin melanin content, Vitamin D is produced less efficiently in dark than light skinned individuals. Nevertheless, dark skinned individuals are able to use Vitamin D efficiently for storage of calcium which is important for bone strength
The appearance of aging results from the decline in skin elasticity and muscle tone and volume as well as bony shape modifications and subcutaneous fat deposition Higher subcutaneous fat deposition (primarily in overweight individuals) fills up the facial folds and creases resulting in a more youthful appearance. In addition, stronger bone density contributes to less bone resorption with age providing a strong underlying structure to the face
Variation in structural and functional skin characteristics have been linked with ethnic background. Studies show that East Asian and to some extent Caucasian skin is characterized by low maturation and relatively weak skin barrier African American skin is characterized by low ceramide levels and high protein cohesion in the upper most layers of the stratum cor neum. These data can be interpreted in ter ms of the high prevalence of xerosis in black skin and increased skin sensitivity in East Asian skin The lecture will cover ethnic differences in facial ageing.
n Neelam Muizzuddin, Ph.D.
Neelam Muizzuddin currently runs a consulting company where she offers skin clinical research design, testing, data mining, and training as well as preparing manuscripts for publication Neelam has worked in the cosmetic industry for over three decades as a clinical research scientist. She has extensive expertise in managing GCP compliant clinical studies pertaining to safety and efficacy of topical materials and is proficient in utilizing skin bioengineering instrumentations for skin measurements.
She has several publications including book chapters, patents, and peer reviewed jour nal articles. At present, she is President of “Skin Clinical Research Consultants LLC” and Adjunct Professor at SUNY Stony Brook Neelam is a member of several skin measurement and der matology societies and actively participates in the administration of scientific conferences in her field In addition, she is also an instrument rated pilot, artist, and pastry chef
Beyond Black and White: Insights on the Relationship Between Racial Bias and Skin Tone Bias
Jordan Daley, Ph.D. (New York University)
Much research demonstrates that darker-skinned people, even within a single racial group, contend with social disadvantages in comparison to their lighter-skinned counterparts. Further more, this pro-light skin-tone bias (or colorism) can influence the experience
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of people across various racial, ethnic, and cultural groups Race and racism are highly politicized, highly salient topics in contemporary discourse Is skin-tone bias also? Given that perceivers often rely on skin tone when assigning a racial category to someone that they encounter, how should skin tone and race be understood in ter ms of their distinct biasing influence? Do they always operate in tandem, or do they sometimes operate independently? Does the reason why perceivers favor lighter skin differ based on the race of the perceptual target? The current talk summarizes social psychological research to offer initial responses to these important questions
n Jordan Daley, Ph.D.
Dr Jordan Daley is a Provost’s Postdoctoral Fellow at New York University He received his Ph.D. in Social Psychology (2023) from Northwester n University, with a focus on interpersonal perceptions and biases His research investigates the psychological processes that underlie social attitudes, perceptual biases, and intergroup relations. His central empirical focus has been on disentangling the characteristics that underlie interpersonal biases based on categorical race from those based on variations of skin tone (even within a particular racial group).
Overview of Hyperpigmentation and Treatment Strategies in Personal Care
Esther
Oluwaseun, M.S., MBA (YG Laboratories and University of Califor nia –Riverside Extension)
Skin color and melanin characteristics are unique to individuals, influenced by genetic predisposition and exogenous factors such as ultraviolet radiation These variations result from differences in the number and size of melanosomes, where melanin is synthesized through melanogenesis. Disturbances in melanogenesis can lead to pigmentary disorders, causing abnor mal skin pigmentation These disorders, classified as hyperpigmentation or hypopigmentation, may be congenital or acquired, per manent or temporary, and affect the entire body or localized areas
Common pigmentary disorders include melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, whose precise causes remain unclear but are linked to genetic factors and UV radiation. These disorders can significantly impact psychosocial well-being and overall quality of life Accurate diagnosis is crucial for appropriate treatment, which aims to manage and prevent these conditions through various pathways in melanogenesis
Current treatments include topical agents and procedural methods, with hydroquinone being the gold standard despite its adverse effects However, changing regulations have led to hydroquinone being available by prescription only, posing challenges for accessible topical treatment options in personal care As a result, alter native topical treatments, such as tranexamic acid, arbutin, and licorice root extract, are being explored for their efficacy Additionally, the importance of ultraviolet protection, especially broadspectrum sunscreens, is emphasized for controlling pigmentary disorders.
Understanding the mechanisms of hyperpigmentation and developing effective treatment strategies are crucial for addressing these concer ns This presentation will explore the pathogenesis, psychosocial impact, and treatment strategies for melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, highlighting both current practices and emerging alter natives
n Esther Oluwaseun, M.S., MBA
Esther Oluwaseun is an R&D for mulation scientist at YG Laboratories and an instructor at UC Riverside W ith a robust background as a licensed esthetician and a dedicated science communicator as The Melanin Chemist Esther is passionately committed to dispelling misinfor mation within the beauty industry Her career has been marked by significant contributions to the development and commercialization of innovative cosmetic products as well as guiding brands and contract manufacturers from concepts to retail shelves Esther's expertise lies in formulation design, with a research emphasis on understanding pigmentary disorders and the mechanisms to treat them Her work focuses on exploring and developing effective treatment strategies
for conditions such as hyperpigmentation, aiming to improve the quality of life for individuals affected by these disorders
Esther's expertise has been showcased to numerous consumer-facing brands and highlighted in various publications around the world, underscoring her impact on enhancing skin health and education in the beauty industry She is particularly focused on deciphering marketing and raising awareness about common issues, especially those faced by individuals with darker skin tones, striving to make a meaningful difference in their lives through infor med and effective solutions
Melanoma Demographics and Survival in Skin of Color Patients
Sara Behbahani, M.D. (Massachusetts General Hospital and Brigham and Women’s Hospital, Harvard Medical School)
In this presentation, we will discuss the etiology of melanoma followed by an overview of its incidence and prevalence We will also examine the demographics and survival in melanoma patients, highlighting how the general population and individuals with skin of color are affected by this disease In addition, we will discuss racial and ethnic differences in other skin cancers. Finally, future directions in the management of melanoma will be addressed
n Sara Behbahani, M.D.
Dr Sara Behbahani is a fourth-year resident in the Harvard Combined Der matology and Inter nal Medicine Residency Program. She has authored over 37 publications and presented at various conferences She has a particular academic interest in skin cancer, especially melanoma. She is also very interested in community health and has her inter nal medicine based primary care clinic at a community healthcare center in Boston that serves a predominantly underserved Latino population. She hopes that she can combine her inter nal medicine and der matology training to increase patient access to der matologists in the community and to educate primary care physicians and hospitalists on der matologic conditions. Prior to medical school, she worked as a project manager at Novo Nordisk in the phase 3 clinical trial program for semaglutide (Ozempic) in Copenhagen (Denmark), São Paulo (Brazil), and Mexico City (Mexico) and worked on the launch of Ozempic in the United States
Evaluating the Effect of Iron Oxides and Ultramarine Blue on the Cosmetic Elegance, Sun Protective Efficacy, and Stability of Inorganic Sunscreens for Dark Skin
Alayna Bouie, MSPS (The University of Toledo)
The reflective nature of zinc oxide and titanium dioxide in sunscreen creates a displeasing white cast on dark skin, categorized as Fitzpatrick phototype IV to VI, deterring regular sunscreen use in these consumer groups Sunscreen is rarely recommended due to the lack of skin cancer testing and sunscreen use education for these consumers. As a result, the occurrence of melanoma, although uncommon, displays at late stages in communities of color, making it more fatal A solution to mitigate the white cast is tinting sunscreens using iron oxides. Many tinted sunscreens on the market are only available in light to medium shades, so complexion products for dark skin typically also leave a displeasing cast, like sunscreens This is due to excessive amounts of black iron oxide in their for mulas
Our preliminary research indicates that ultramarine blue can relieve this issue, yet there is a concer n that it is not stable in formulations The main goal of this study was to compare iron oxides and ultramarine blue in various inorganic sunscreens to mitigate the white cast, evaluate the sun-protective efficacy, and affir m the color stability of ultramarine blue in emulsions Fourteen darkly tinted sunscreens and four nontinted sunscreens were for mulated by varying the emulsion type and pigment ratio. In vitro protection in the ultraviolet range (290-400 nm) and visible light range (400-700 nm) was tested for all samples The color was tested visually via photographs in an IRB-approved consumer study and
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based on consumer feedback and objectively using a spectrophotometer Particle size was analyzed using a light microscope and spreadability with a texture analyzer Product stability was tested at 25 and 45 °C for six months. SPF levels were higher for the tinted sunscreens in comparison to the non-tinted ones and had a lower percentage of transmittance in the visible range All samples remained stable at room temperature during the study. Moreover, particle size did not change dramatically for foundations that remained stable at 25 °C for four months, however, at 45 °C samples destabilized after two weeks The addition of ultramarine blue decreased the gray cast from the high black iron oxide load and remained stable at 25 °C for four months
n Alayna Bouie, MSPS
Alayna Bouie ear ned her Bachelor of Science in Phar maceutical Sciences at the University of Toledo, focusing on suncare and color through the Cosmetic Science program. She furthered her studies, obtaining a Master’s in Industrial Phar macy, gaining expertise in cosmetic chemistry and contributing to teaching cosmetic chemistry labs W ith six years of formulation experience, Alayna currently serves as a Product Developer at Sula Labs based in Los Angeles She also founded Shereen Cosmetics, where she combines her passion for beauty and science by creating skincare and color cosmetics.
Moderators:
n James (V ince) Gruber, Ph.D.
Dr. Gruber is the Director of New Product Development at Vantage Specialties developing new ideas and technologies for the personal care, cosmetic, and therapeutic industries He is also an Adjunct Professor at the University of Cincinnati’s School of Phar macy working with students in the Cosmetics Master’s Degree Program Prior to joining Vantage Specialties, Dr Gruber held positions at Jeen, Botaneco, Sensient, Arch (Lonza), and Amerchol among others, leading technical teams to develop active and functional ingredients He is the author of 42 refereed articles including 22 referenced in PubMed and holds 13 granted U.S. patents and additional published World Patent applications He has authored numerous edited articles and book chapters and is an author and co-editor of the book Principals of Polymer Science and Technology in Cosmetics and Personal Care. Dr. Gruber has been an active member of the New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists, American Chemical Society, and Society of Investigative Der matology for many years. He is a scientific review editor of numerous open access jour nals including the Jour nal o f Cosmetic Science; Cosmetics; Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Der matology; Molecules; Microorganisms; Phar maceutics; Inter national Jour nal of Molecular Science; and Inter national Jour nal of Cosmetic Science
n Toussaint Jordan, M.S.
Toussaint Jordan is the Marketing Manager at Solabia USA + Applechem where she spearheads the regional marketing strategy and execution She was previously a Brand Manager at Edgewell, where she led product innovation and brand strategy for the Jack Black and Fieldtrip brands. Prior to Edgewell, she was the Senior Global Marketing Manager at L’Oréal, overseeing product creation for Matrix hair care from ideation to commercialization. Her career also includes roles at Henkel, Gattefossé USA, Verla Inter national, and TRI-K Industries W ith 12 years of experience in Personal Care and a Master’s degree in Cosmetic Science from Fairleigh Dickinson University, Toussaint possesses a unique expertise in market trends, skin biology, ingredient technologies, and for mulation development
n Poster Abstracts and Poster Presenter Biographies:
• The Role of Blue Light (High Energy Visible Light) in Hyperpigmentation
– Howard Epstein, Ph.D. and My Trinh Luu (EMD Electronics an affiliate of Merck KGaA)
• Considering Ethnic Skin Needs to Develop an Inclusive Natural Active Ingredient
– Francisco De Souza (SILAB Inc ), Laurie Verzeaux, Mélanie Humeau, Elodie Aymard, Hélène Muchico, and Brigitte Closs (SILAB)
• Performance Re-Evaluation of an Established In Vitro Test Method Based on a Pigmented Reconstructed Human Skin Model Used to Assess Activity of Compounds on Melanin Synthesis
– Megan Creelman, Stephanie (Blake) Morris, and Gertrude-Emilia Costin (Institute for In Vitro Sciences, Inc. (IIVS))
• Phyto Derivative Active for Promoting Bioregulation in Skin
– Princess-Ann George-Ezuma (Independent Chemical Corporation)
• A Standardized Approach for Potency Assessment of Topical Corticosteroids using the Vasoconstrictor Assay (VCA)
– Seeprarani Rath (Rutgers University and University of Toronto) and Isadore Kanfer (University of Toronto and Rhodes University)
• Australian Lemon Myrtle Extract to Rebalance Sebum Production in Melanated Skin
– Florence Turgeon, Philippe Daigle, and Sophia Bull (Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant)
• Synthetic Hair and Contact Dermatitis: A Systematic Review
– Alexis Antonucci (Virginia Commonwealth University School of Medicine), Tiffany Mayas, M.D. (St George’s University School of Medicine), Alina Zufall, M.D. (New York Medical College), and Shoshana Marmon, M.D. (New York Medical College; Metropolitan Hospital Center; South Brooklyn Health)
• Caring for Melanated Skin Using Bakuchiol, Aloesin, and Bamboo/Skullcap Fractions
– John R. DeNoia, Jr. (Unigen, Inc )
• Development and Validation of a Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation Model in Multiple Fitzpatrick Skin Types and Multi-Ethnicities Using Three Different Induction Methods
– Trevor Uher, Nora Ruth, Qihong Zhang, Victoria Kuhr, Vanessa Kennelly, Claude Saliou, and Mei Yu (The Estée Lauder Companies)
• Exploring the Effect of a Series of Single Simulated Solar Radiations on Inflammation Across Skin Types
– Qihong Zhang, Trevor Uher, Vanessa Kennelly, Victoria Kuhr, Claude Saliou, and Mei Yu (The Estée Lauder Companies)
• Characterization of Facial Skin Phenotype across Multiple Ethnic Groups
– Markaisa Black, Tori Moore, Rosemarie Osbor ne, Paul Matts, Makio Tamura, Bradley Jarrold, Lisa Mullins, Charles Bascom, Robert Isfort, Heather Rocchetta, Maria Alora-Palli, Alexa Kimball (The Procter & Gamble Company and Harvard Medical School)
• Evaluating Tinted Sunscreens to Meet the Needs for Inclusivity
– Cheres Chambers (Kobo Products, Inc )
• STRATAPHIX® POLY: An Advanced Skin Inflammaging Treatment with Superior Clinical Moisturizing Benefits on Melanated Skin
– Nicole Terpak, James V Gruber, Sebastien Massard, Elva Chen, and Yurah Kim (Vantage Personal Care)
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The Role of Blue Light (High Energy Visible Light) in Hyperpigmentation
Howard Epstein, Ph.D. and My Trinh Luu (EMD Electronics an affiliate of Merck KGaA)
In the past it was believed that visible light had minimal biological impact to skin More recent studies show that visible light has significant impact on various der mal biological processes including hyperpigmentation Publications indicate that visible light, particularly blue light (415 nm), is associated with oxidative stress leading to protein damage, DNA damage, inflammation, and hyperpigmentation, all contributing to aging. Currently opsin-3, a light-sensitive protein was identified in skin and found to be expressed in human epider mal melanocytes, the cells that produce melanin Given that skin overexposure to visible light/high energy visible light promotes production of reactive oxygen species, pro-inflammatory cytokines including MMP-1, and hyperpigmentation, we evaluated the ability of an attenuated titanium sun filter (UV-TiO2), Bis-ethylhexyl hydroxydimethoxy benzylmalonate (HDBM), Indian gooseberry extract (emblica), and ectoin for the ability to mitigate the impact of high energy visible light on human skin explants post irradiation at 400-500 nm Markers for opsin-3, DNA oxidation (8-OHDG), oxidized proteins, and MMP-1 production were evaluated. Our findings show each of the above ingredients can provide broad protection against high energy visible light exposure via multiple molecular pathways
n Howard Epstein, Ph.D.
Howard Epstein is Director of Technical Services for EMD Electronics, Philadelphia, PA., an affiliate of Merck KGaA, Dar mstadt, Ger many. He was a scholar in residence at the University of Cincinnati Department of Der matology and received his Ph D from the Union Institute and University in Cincinnati during that time. He has been in the cosmetics industry for many years since he began his career for mulating cosmetics for Estée Lauder, Maybelline, Max Factor, Bausch & Lomb, and Kao Brands. In addition to his interest in botanicals, Howard previously served as editor of the Jour nal of Cosmetic Science and is a member of the Inter national Academy of Der matology He is on the editorial board of the der matological jour nals Clinics in Der matology and SKINmed, representing the cosmetics industry to der matologists Howard has authored chapters in various cosmetic technology textbooks including various chapters in Harry’s Cosmeticology and holds eight patents. He received the Maison G. de Navarre Medal Award in 2020, the society’s highest honor supporting the best interests of the cosmetics and personal care industry
n My Trinh Luu
My Trinh Luu has served as an Innovation and Application Specialist in Cosmetic Actives since 2011 at EMD Electronics, Philadelphia, PA, an affiliate of Merck KGaA, Dar mstadt, Ger many. She holds a Bachelor’s degree in Chemical Engineering from the University at Buffalo In her current position, she supports the development of cosmetic raw materials by evaluating and testing them. My Trinh’s role also involves the development of new for mulations and technical service She has over 20 years of experience in research, innovation, product development, and technical service in many facets of the personal care industry including diverse areas from finished goods manufacturers to raw material suppliers in hair care, skin care, OTC drugs, and insect repellents. My Trinh was the 2009 recipient of the Young Scientist Award for her contributions to the field of cosmetic science
Considering Ethnic Skin Needs to Develop an Inclusive Natural Active Ingredient
Francisco De Souza (SILAB Inc.), Laurie Verzeaux, Mélanie Humeau, Elodie Aymard, Hélène Muchico, and Brigitte Closs (SILAB)
Whether masculine, feminine, young, old, or from the four cor ners of the world, all skin has its particularities and concer ns. In this context, SILAB has identified the main cutaneous characteristics of consumers in ter ms of ethnicity, age, and gender Depending on the ethnic group, the major difference comes from skin color in relation to the presence of melanin Lighter skins are characterized by low melanin levels, making them more vulnerable to photoaging and the premature emergence of pigmentation spots They are also more fragile, and generally reflect a premature loss of elastin and collagen fiber structure, leading to the early appearance of pronounced wrinkles. Melanin rich skin better resists the negative side effects of photoaging That said, heterogenous pigmentation can lead to irregular skin tone and these skin types have a very high transepider mal water loss, explaining why they are more prone to skin dryness
Given these observations, a natural active ingredient enriched in galactomannans from alfalfa was developed to meet universal expectations of skin care consumers. It was obtained using a unique and patented process based on hydrolysis and purification steps The active ingredient versatility was demonstrated with an exploratory and predictive study conducted by transcriptomics on reconstructed epider mis The results highlighted that genes involved in the physical and water barrier, immune barrier, and epider mis-der mis anchoring were improved by this active ingredient To go further, the efficacy of this ingredient was investigated on fibroblasts originating from Caucasian, Asian, and African American volunteers The results revealed a significant increase of collagen I synthesis while the MMP-1 synthesis decreased in cells from all ethnicities.
From a clinical standpoint, we considered the specific concer ns of each ethnic group Consequently, five clinical studies were designed in agreement with experts from four different countries The natural active ingredient significantly improves the complexion radiance of young Caucasian volunteers in as little as 15 minutes It also increases hydration and provides a smoothing effect 7 days after the beginning of the study. In mature Caucasian volunteers, it significantly reduces wrinkles in 7 days and increases fir mness after 21 days The complexion radiance of mature Asian volunteers is significantly improved in 15 minutes and the visibility of senescent spots improves after 21 days. Young Latin American and African American volunteers have a significant improvement of the visibility of post-inflammatory spots, skin grain, and hydration after 7 days In summary, we developed an inclusive natural active ingredient effective after 7 days of initial use that responds rapidly and over the long ter m to universal cosmetic expectations
n Francisco Santin de Souza
Francisco Santin de Souza is the Subsidiary General Manager of SILAB Inc He has been part of the SILAB Group since 2012 and has gained experienced in business development for natural active ingredients for cosmetics in South and North America
He completed his undergraduate work at Universidade Estadual Paulista Júlio de Mesquita Filho in São Paulo, Brazil with a focus in Phar macy and Biochemistry and specialization in Cosmetology He also ear ned an MBA at FGV – Fundação Getulio Vargas in São Paulo, Brazil with a specialization in Project Management. Francisco has 20 years of experience in the cosmetic ingredients industry holding various roles in technical and commercial capacities.
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Performance Re-Evaluation of an Established In Vitro Test Method Based on a Pigmented Reconstructed Human Skin Model Used to Assess Activity of Compounds on Melanin Synthesis
Megan Creelman, Stephanie (Blake) Morris, and Gertrude-Emilia Costin, Ph.D. (Institute for In V itro Sciences)
The efficacy of active ingredients or finished products to modulate melanin synthesis can be evaluated using reconstructed skin models of various degrees of pigmentation In 2008, we established an in vitro pigmentation screening assay based on the Asian MelanoDerm tissue model (MatTek Corporation, USA) In our experiments, the ratio between the melanin concentration of the tissues treated with the assay controls negative (sterile-deionized water) and positive (1% Kojic acid) was at least 1.5 regardless of the length of the assay (1-3 weeks). Therefore, we concluded that notable assay sensitivity for screening melanogenesis inhibitors can be achieved using a short-ter m 1-week assay compared to the 2- or 3-week protocol established by the tissue manufacturer. The assay was used reliably until 2018, and during this time, the % tissue viability and melanin concentration endpoints’ perfor mance ranges were established
When the established assay was again used in 2023, the 1-week exposure no longer generated results for the assay controls considered acceptable within the established historical ranges Since 2018, several changes have been implemented by the tissue manufacturer to the tissue inserts and culture conditions to facilitate extending culture times often needed in screening assays evaluating pigmentation modulators Therefore, we conducted experiments to re-evaluate the established method within the current context of the test system. We used the melanin endpoint to assess the test system’s perfor mance by using the manufacturer’s current protocol and our established protocol for a 1- and 2-week extended exposure to the assay controls. Our results indicated that discrimination between the responses of the controls-treated tissues was not possible with either protocol after the 1-week exposure It was noted, however, that the ratio of the melanin concentration between controls had exceeded the established 1 5 cut-off with a greater degree of separation for our established method after the 2-week exposure time Our experiments showcase the importance of test system re-evaluation, especially over extended times of disuse. Further more, it is critical to assess the impacts that seemingly minor changes to the test system may have especially on sensitive efficacy assays evaluating activity of ingredients or finished products on melanin production.
n Gertrude-Emilia Costin, Ph.D.
Dr Gertrude-Emilia Costin joined Institute for In Vitro Sciences, Inc (IIVS) in 2007 and currently is the Director of Laboratory Services. She oversees a wide range of safety and efficacy commercial studies and research projects using in vitro testing strategies. Her primary area of expertise is in the use of in vitro test methods for the der mal safety assessment of ingredients and final for mulations manufactured by the cosmetic, personal care, phar maceutical, chemical, or agrochemical industry. Dr. Costin promotes the use of in vitro efficacy assays investigating the anti-inflammatory or skin lightening potential of actives or finished products Dr. Costin organizes, coordinates, and participates in IIVS educational workshops on non-animal research and in vitro assay systems Dr Costin received her Ph D (Cum laude) from the Institute of Biochemistry of the Romanian Academy, followed by postdoctoral training at the National Cancer Institute, National Institutes of Health (NIH). Prior to joining IIVS, Dr. Costin worked as Senior Research Scientist for Avon Products, Inc – Global R&D
Phyto Derivative Active for Promoting Bioregulation
in Skin
Princess-Ann George-Ezuma (Independent Chemical Corporation)
ACS-AntiCytoStressor by Vevy Europe is a hydrophilic phyto derivative active made from peptide synthesis Krameria triandra root extract is known for preventing adverse effects from stress related hormones This prevention is through bioregulation, which follows the physiological mechanisms of the integument. As proven in literature, the keratinocytes of the epider mis can self-produce stress hor mones thus generating stimuli that further produce side effects as a response This type of response can potentially be expressed in the top layer of the epidermis as an injury; however, ACS-AntiCytoStressor can modulate such activity by preventing local stress caused by wounds, hindering scar for mation
n Princess-Ann George-Ezuma
Princess-Ann is a for mulator at Independent Chemical Corporation. She has a Bachelor of Science in Chemistry as well as a Master of Science in Cosmetic Science. She has been working in industry for three years, beginning her career at L’Oréal Research and Innovation as an Analytical Chemist She is also a science communicator on social media, using TikTok as a platfor m to bridge the gap between the cosmetic industry and consumers through the education of the science behind cosmetic products
A Standardized Approach for Potency Assessment of Topical Corticosteroids
Using the Vasoconstrictor Assay (VCA)
Seeprarani Rath (Rutgers University and University of Toronto) and Isadore Kanfer (University of Toronto and Rhodes University)
Topical corticosteroids (TCs) are highly effective for the treatment of inflammatory skin conditions such as eczema and psoriasis when prescribed and used appropriately TC products are available in different potencies which depend on the specific therapeutic indication In May 2024, the Medicines and Healthcare Products Regulatory Agency (MHRA) in the UK announced that TC products must be labelled with their potencies to aid correct selection and to simplify the advice to patients requiring multiple steroid products of differing potencies 1 The potency of TCs is important because the clinical choice of a TC depends on various factors which are considered by der matologists when prescribing such products to achieve optimum safety and efficacy Potencies of TC products have usually been classified based on clinical or vasoconstrictor assay (VCA) data However, several discrepancies exist in various published potency classifications leading to ambiguity. In this work, we propose the classification of TC active phar maceutical ingredients (APIs) based on their inherent potencies using the Food and Drug Administration’s (FDA’s) VCA.
The methodology involves preparation of standardized solutions (0 0025M) of TCs in a common vehicle and application of these solutions to the forear ms of healthy human participants, followed by measurement of the skin blanching response using a chromameter The Emax model is used to fit VCA data following application of the respective TCs, and the parameters, Emax and ED50, are derived Emax is a more appropriate parameter and has been shown to correlate with potency. Hence, it is used as a metric to assess the potencies of the TCs and rank them Examples are presented of three different TC APIs associated with different levels of potencies.
The blanching response profiles for the TC APIs were deter mined and plotted The plots showed a direct correlation between the dose duration and skin blanching response, where an increase in dose duration resulted in an increase in the skin blanching response. The blanching effect peaked at 12 hours after product removal for all three TCs clobetasol propionate, hydrocortisone butyrate, and betamethasone valerate and decreased thereafter.
Fitted Emax models were derived from the Area under the Effect Curve (AUEC) values to estimate the ED50 and Emax values for the TCs Emax values were then used to rank the APIs Clobetasol propionate demonstrated the highest Emax value (-75.44 ± 15.65) followed by hydrocortisone
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butyrate (-48 82 ± 21 90), and betamethasone valerate had the lowest Emax value (-38 01 ± 17 90) Hence, the inherent potency of clobetasol propionate was the greatest (high potency), followed by hydrocortisone butyrate (medium potency), and betamethasone valerate (low potency).
The potency of a TC may be increased or decreased based on the type of for mulation and vehicle components. Inherent potency assessment of TCs provides infor mation that will be useful when choosing an appropriate TC for the development of a TCP for a specific clinical indication Application of the VCA, when carried out in accordance with the FDA requirements, is an optimal method to assess the potency of TC APIs and for mulated TC products 2,3,4
References
1 Medicines and Healthcare Products Regulatory Agency; Drug Safety Update; Volume 17; Issue 10; May 2024; https://www.gov.uk/drug- safety-update/topical-steroids-introduction-ofnew-labelling-and-a-reminder-of-the-possibility-of-severe-side-effects-including-topicalsteroid-withdrawal-reactions; accessed on August 21, 2024
2. Tapfumaneyi, P.; Rath, S.; Bon, C.; Kanfer, I. Fitting phar macodynamic data to the Emax model to assess the inherent potency of topical corticosteroids Mol Phar m 2022, 19 (8), 2900-2906 DOI: 10.1021/acs.molphar maceut.2c00254.
3 Zvidzayi, M ; Rath, S ; Bon, C ; Abboo, S ; Kanfer, I A novel approach to assess the potency of topical corticosteroids Pharmaceutics 2021, 13 (9), 1456 DOI: 10 3390/pharmaceutics13091456
4. Rath, S.; Zvidzayi, M.; Bon, C.; Kanfer, I. Application of E max model to assess the potency of topical corticosteroid products Basic Clin Phar macol Toxicol 2022, 131 (3), 165-173 DOI: 10.1111/bcpt.13759.
n Seepra Rath, Ph.D.
Seepra Rath is a Postdoctoral Associate at the Center for Der mal Research, Rutgers University Prior to this, she was a MITACS Accelerate Postdoctoral Fellow at the University of Toronto (Toronto, Canada) where she worked on model-based population phar macokinetics and phar macodynamics She completed her Ph D from Rhodes University, South Africa, after obtaining her Bachelor’s and Master’s degrees in Phar maceutics from India Her Ph D research involved exploration of economical and less time-consuming alter natives to clinical endpoint studies such as in vitro release testing (IVRT) and tape stripping to demonstrate equivalence between topically applied creams and correlating the in vitro-in vivo results which may justify a biowaiver for such products. As a Postdoctoral Associate at the Biophar maceutics Research Institute, Rhodes University, she worked on clinical studies involving the vasoconstrictor assay to assess potency and bioavailability/bioequivalence of topical corticosteroid products Her current research focuses on for mulation development and characterization of topical semisolid products
Australian Lemon Myrtle Extract to Rebalance
Sebum Production in Melanated Skin
Florence Turgeon, Philippe Daigle and Sophia Bull (Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant)
The cosmetics industry is increasingly recognizing the importance of catering to various skin tones and types to meet the diverse needs of consumers However, individuals with darker skin still struggle to find beauty products suitable for their skin, which tends to be oilier. Highly melanated skin has larger sebaceous glands and produces more sebum compared to other skin types, resulting in an oily and shiny complexion and feelings of self-consciousness. The increased oil production also makes melanated skin more prone to acne, which can be especially challenging for this skin type, as a single pimple or breakout can cause long-lasting scars. Dealing with this daily burden is also worsened by urban living and air pollution, which exacerbate these issues more than ever Squalene, a vital component of sebum, oxidizes and becomes squalene peroxide when exposed to environmental stressors such as pollution and UV rays, leading to skin inflammation and increased sebum
production. This creates a cycle of unbalanced sebum composition and even oilier skin while also increasing the risk of developing or worsening acne due to the comedogenic effect of squalene peroxide This leaves affected individuals searching for effective or even better, preventive solutions
Extracted from the Australian endemic plant lemon myrtle, OiLESS’city was specifically designed to address this need This innovative product targets four biological factors, effectively protecting squalene from oxidation, reducing inflammation, and decreasing sebocyte differentiation and lipid production. Our comprehensive clinical trials, involving individuals aged 18 to 55 of different ethnicities, including African Americans, Asians, and Caucasians, have proven that OiLESS’city can rebalance natural sebum composition, reduce oily spots and sebum production, minimize comedones and papules, and improve self-confidence
Preservative-free, China-compliant, and sustainably produced, OiLESS'city is the optimal option for effective sebum control for individuals of all skin tones and types, including highly melanated skin.
n Sophia Bull
Sophia Bull joined Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant as the Regional Marketing Manager for North America in 2019. In this role she supports and inspires customers and delivers regionalized initiatives, promotions, and launches After several years working in the phar maceutical industry, Sophia began her career in the personal care industry as regulatory support for Croda, building on her technical background Roles in marketing and sales followed at Croda and then at Botaneco Sophia obtained her Master’s degree in Chemistry from the University of Leeds
Synthetic Hair and
Contact Dermatitis: A Systematic Review
Alexis Antonucci (V irginia Commonwealth University School of Medicine), Tiffany Mayas, M.D. (St. George’s University School of Medicine), Alina Zufall, M.D. (New York Medical College), and Shoshana Mar mon, M.D. (New York Medical College; Metropolitan Hospital Center; South Brooklyn Health)
Synthetic hair is widely used by individuals struggling with alopecia and is especially popular among people with skin of color due to its affordability and versatility While synthetic hair is generally considered very safe, the dyes and fibers within the hair may cause contact der matitis in the scalp This is likely mis-diagnosed as seborrheic der matitis or sebo-psoriasis, leading to persistence of the scalp der matitis despite treatment The purpose of this review is to investigate the association between synthetic hair and contact der matitis, both allergic and irritant, to improve our understanding and management of these patients
A systematic review was conducted following the Preferred Reporting Items for Systematic Review and Meta-Analysis (PRISMA) guidelines. The literature search was conducted using the PubMed, Embase, and Web of Science databases from conception to July 2024 using the key words “synthetic hair,” “synthetic,” “wig,” “dye in synthetic hair,” “ weave, ” “artificial hair,” and “hairpieces.” Publications were included if the exposure was to synthetic hair, synthetic, wig, dye in synthetic hair, weave, artificial, and hairpieces with outcomes of contact der matitis, irritant der matitis, or allergic der matitis The study characteristics were included if they were case reports, case series, randomized control trials, or literature reviews Studies were excluded if the exposure was to hair implants, or implants; and if the study characteristic was a systematic review.
Six publications met all inclusion and exclusion criteria, corresponding to 15 total patients The hairstyles that consisted of synthetic hair were wigs in 4/15 (26.67%) patients and other hair extension types in 11/15 (73%) patients The majority of hair extensions were sewn or braided into cor nrows Patch testing was positive for phenylenediamine (PPD), a chemical in hair dye, in 4/15 (26 67%) patients and disperse dyes in 2/15 (13%) patients.
Synthetic hair can cause both allergic and irritant contact der matitis Allergic contact der matitis appears to be due to the chemicals within the dyes used to color the synthetic hair. Our findings suggest that it is important to inquire about the use of synthetic hair when evaluating and managing patients with recalcitrant scalp der matitis to avoid a delayed diagnosis of contact der matitis
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n Tiffany Mayas, M.D.
Dr Mayas is a recent alumna of St George's University School of Medicine and is also the imaginative author of a children's book on skin conditions She is currently pursuing a Master’s of Public Health with a focus on Dermatology. Dr. Mayas has had the privilege of collaborating with der matology residents and faculty at New York Medical College and medical students at V irginia Commonwealth University School of Medicine Together, their research emphasizes the importance of including skin of color in der matological studies, aiming to contribute to more inclusive and effective treatments.
Caring for Melanated Skin Using Bakuchiol, Aloesin, and Bamboo/Skullcap Fractions
John R. DeNoia, Jr. (Unigen, Inc.)
Treatment of conditions (e g , acne and hyperpigmentation) in melanated skin requires solutions tailored specifically for this target demographic’s skin type Clinical testing results using Bakutrol A (INCI: Bakuchiol) on subjects in this demographic for acne and hyperpigmentation conditions were evaluated and found to provide very effective results and improvement of appearance over time Additional clinical studies with other active ingredients (FeraLuxe – INCI: Aloesin and Uniflavon – INCI: Scutellaria baicalensis root extract AND Phyllostachys edulis extract) were completed Studies of the reduction of UV spots and brown spots on subjects along with barrier repair and skin soothing properties were carried out The results of these evaluations showed high effectiveness for the tested conditions
n John DeNoia, Jr.
John is a cosmetic industry executive with over 30 years of experience. He focuses on providing innovative raw material technology for anti-aging skin treatment, hair care, and decorative cosmetic markets Having served in various business development roles in sales management, marketing, and inter national distribution sales/marketing management for Lonza, Symrise, Sytheon, and other companies he has been a valuable resource for brands globally. In his current role as Global Sales Director – Cosmetics for Unigen, Inc , he brings highly standardized botanical active ingredients with clinically tested activity to the industry
Development and Validation of a Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation Model in Multiple Fitzpatrick Skin Types and Multi-Ethnicities Using Three Different Induction Methods
Trevor Uher, Nora Ruth, Qihong Zhang, V ictoria Kuhr, Vanessa Kennelly, Claude Saliou, and Mei Yu (The Estée Lauder Companies)
Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) of the skin is caused by inflammation which triggers melanin overproduction in localized areas We aimed to develop a reliable methodology that induces PIH and evaluates its progression in different skin types and ethnicities to help assess the efficacy of treatments Three induction methods tape stripping (TS), tri-chloroacetic acid (TCA), and suction blistering (SB) were evaluated over 8 weeks and compared across Fitzpatrick skin types III-VI including Caucasian, Asian, and African American participants
TS induced less pigmentation and had a quicker recovery time after 8 weeks compared to TCA and SB. TCA and SB resulted in significant pigmentation differences when compared to baseline for Fitzpatrick III and IV skin types starting at week 2 and only at week 4 for Fitzpatrick V and VI skin types Significant redness differences were observed for all treatments in all skin types. TCA and SB showed a rapid spike immediately following treatment that remained until the week 2 time point Overall, TCA and SB
produced more consistent PIH across skin types, but we recommend the post-induction evaluation time be re-defined starting at 2 weeks and extended post 8 weeks for full resolution Overall, TS may prove useful for short-ter m evaluations and in skin types IV-VI
n Trevor Uher
Trevor is a Scientist in the Clinical Translational division at Estée Lauder Companies. He has been with the company for 2 years. Trevor primarily works on new instrument exploration and new study design in the pursuit of new claims opportunities Collaborating between Clinical and Upstream R&D has led Trevor to design and execute numerous innovative studies involving new product development in new and existing market spaces Several of these studies have focused on an exploration of post-inflammation across skin phototypes. Trevor graduated with his Bachelor’s in Mechanical and Biomedical Engineering from Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute (RPI) in 2020, followed by a Masters of Engineering in Biomedical Engineering from RPI in 2021.
Exploring the Effect of a Series of Single Simulated Solar Radiations on Inflammation Across Skin Types
Qihong Zhang, Trevor Uher, Vanessa Kennelly, V ictoria Kuhr, Vanessa Kennelly, Claude Saliou, and Mei Yu (The Estée Lauder Companies)
Inflammation is one of the most apparent acute effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation on all the skin types, but many studies that use the UV model to investigate the anti-inflammation and antiphotoaging efficacy of topical drugs and cosmetic treatments mainly recruited skin types I-IV Despite growing research on photoaging and skin cancer on skin types V-VI, knowledge of the immediate biological responses, including erythema and vascular dynamics, is limited A double-blinded, randomized, and baseline-controlled clinical study was conducted on skin types I-VI subjects to address the response to a series of single simulated solar radiations (SSRs) on the following parameters: erythema, skin color, and blood flow/flux over 4 weeks
A 1% hydrocortisone cream was used to probe anti-inflammation activity as a positive control Fiftythree healthy female volunteers received SSR at 0 8x minimal erythema dose (MED calculated based on ITA°), 1.0x MED, 1.5x MED, and 1.5x MED followed by 1% hydrocortisone treatment for 7 days (once daily) Results suggested the dose for significant erythema induction varied within sub-skin types Blood flow, blood flux, and L and a* values showed significant increases at 24 hours and dose differences among sub-skin types Skin types I-II showed consistent inflammation responses at a minimal 1 0x MED, whereas skin types III-IV and V-VI at a minimal 1 5x MED, which suggests an adjustment factor for MED deter mination equation based on ITA° values for skin types V-VI. Further more, post-SSR pigmentation has been observed across different skin types, especially on type IV-VI starting from 2 weeks These results demonstrate a possible model and treatment window to alleviate inflammation and post-UV pigmentation and raises the importance for sun protection in different skin types We suggest future studies investigate anti-inflammatory and SPF ingredients to account for variations in different skin types
n Trevor Uher
See biography above
Characterization of Facial Skin Phenotype Across Multiple Ethnic Groups
Markaisa Black, Tori Moore, Rosemarie Osbor ne, Paul Matts, Makio Tamura, Bradley Jarrold, Lisa Mullins, Charles Bascom, Robert Isfort, Heather Rocchetta, Maria Alora-Palli, and Alexa Kimball (The Procter & Gamble Company and Harvard Medical School)
Various researchers have assessed facial skin changes overtime. Typically, these studies focus on a single endpoint on one ethnic group and on subjects aged > 30 years In a comprehensive study, the Multi-Ethnic Skin Study characterizes facial skin aging by evaluating
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skin appearance and phenotypic science across ages and ethnicities The objective of this study is to deter mine differences in facial skin phenotypes across multiple ages and ethnic groups including surface sebum levels, stratum cor neum trans-epider mal water loss (TEWL), pigmented spots, and texture.
The study was carried out with 1250 female subjects (aged 10-80) across five ethnic groups Caucasian, Chinese, African, Indian, and Latino at three sites (two in the U.S., one in China). Facial skin was evaluated using a series of objective measures, including surface sebum levels (sebumeter), stratum cor neum TEWL (evaporimetry), and image analysis of standardized, high-resolution digital images for hyper-pigmented spots (spot area fraction) and micro-texture (texture area fraction)
A wide range of facial skin characteristics changed across all endpoints measured, from age 10 to 80 in multiple ethnicity groups.
• Facial sebum levels increased in subjects aged 20+, although maximal output differed by ethnicity: 20s for Indians, 20-30s for Caucasians, 30s for Chinese, 30-40s for Africans, and 40s for Latinos Overall, sebum levels decreased post-menopause
• Caucasian, African, and Latino subjects showed similar TEWL values from ages 10-80, while Chinese and Indian subjects had significantly higher lifetime TEWL values (peaking in the 30s), which may suggest that these two ethnicities have overall less facial stratum cor neum barrier function as compared to others.
• While texture and pigmented spots increased across all ethnicities with age, African subjects accumulated significantly more pigmented spots and skin texture than all other ethnic groups, from age 10 onwards.
Facial sebum, TEWL, pigmented spots, and texture change dynamically with aging across different ethnicities, impacting skin surface appearance and condition.
n Markaisa Black, Ph.D.
Markaisa is an Innovation Scientist at Procter and Gamble for Beauty-Skin Care. She is a molecular biologist and for mulation chemist who uses her skills to contribute to the exciting technological advances that happen every day at P&G Skin. Markaisa specializes in decoding complex beauty science to consumer relevant understanding and scientific communications She is passionate about bringing the science to life from product design and development to in-market execution Markaisa grew up in St Louis, Missouri She graduated from Clark Atlanta University with her B S in Biological Sciences and ear ned an M S in Biomedical Research and Ph.D. in Molecular and Developmental Biology. She is a proud spokesperson for the #FacetheSTEMgap campaign where P&G has committed to increasing the number of women and women of color in STEM careers. In her free time, Markaisa enjoys traveling, playing volleyball, and being outdoors (wearing lots of sunscreen!)
n Tori Moore
Tori Moore, an esteemed Olay Scientist and Cincinnati native, has dedicated the past nine years of her career to being one of the brilliant minds behind the beauty at Procter & Gamble's billion-dollar brand, Olay W ith a profound passion for skin of color and a desire to ensure representation and innovation in the skincare industry, Tori combines her technical expertise and love for beauty to create groundbreaking products that delight consumers worldwide
Tori's jour ney into the beauty industry began at a young age, where she nurtured her fascination with skincare by creating her own products at the age of
5 This early passion eventually led her to pursue a Bachelor's degree in Chemistry from Central State University. During her studies, Tori's exceptional aptitude caught the attention of the Procter & Gamble Company, and she was selected as one of twelve participants from a pool of over 1,200 applicants for a prestigious STEM program. This opportunity led her to secure an inter nship as a For mulation Chemist at P&G in Cincinnati, Ohio
After completing her degree, Tori embraced a full-time position in the Beauty Sector at P&G, where she wasted no time utilizing her talents to passionately innovate Notably, she played a pivotal role in the development of Olay Retinol 24 and Olay Ultra Rich Moisturizer, two highly acclaimed skincare products. In recognition of her exceptional contributions, Tori was honored with the CEO Award in 2020
and currently serves as one of the influential faces driving Olay's STEM mission as a STEM Gap Brand Ambassador Outside of her professional endeavors, Tori engages in continuous lear ning, explores new destinations through travel, cherishes quality time with her family (especially her six-year-old son), indulges in her passion for makeup, and actively volunteers in STEM-related programs.
Evaluating Tinted Sunscreens to Meet the Needs for Inclusivity
Cheres Chambers (Kobo Products, Inc.)
Market research was conducted within the diverse Latin American region regarding tinted products and their inclusivity. Most brands only offered 2 to 5 shades and lacked tints for Fitzpatrick scale skin types V-VI As a result, new tints that were inclusive of Fitzpatrick scale types I-VI were created. The objective was to develop color dispersions that could be used in tinted sunscreen for mulas using mineral UV filters, avoiding any graying effect, while being mindful of limited in-store shelf space The result was the development of the KoboTint series, composite blends with high natural origin, available in 5 shades For mulas made with these blends were tested by a data color spectrophotometer, comparing the shades of foundation pallets Three different for mulations, each in five shades, were then panel tested on 134 volunteers. Inclusivity was confir med with 98.5% of the panelists able to find their shade
n Cheres Chambers
Cheres Chambers, a Stockton University graduate with a Bachelor's degree in Business and a concentration in Marketing, started her career at Kobo Products, Inc. USA eleven years ago as a Junior Account Manager in the Sales Department. She now holds the position of Sales Manager for North America and contributes to the Kobo Digital Content Team Cheres is also an active member of the NYSCC and leads the DEI team at Kobo
STRATAPHIX®
POLY:
An Advanced
Skin Inflammaging Treatment with Superior Clinical Moisturizing Benefits on Melanated Skin
Nicole Terpak, James V. Gruber, Sebastien Massard, Elva Chen, and Yurah Kim (Vantage Personal Care)
People with darker skin have special concer ns for their skin care regiment especially when it comes to dealing with issues associated with highly melanated skin These individuals often have problems with acne due to the accumulation of melanin around their acne lesions driven by skin post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) and the inflammation processes that drive acne lesion for mation In addition, individuals with darker skin often must deal with ashy skin which is the appearance of light discoloration of the skin, especially at the joints of the body, often brought on by the topical treatments they are using Especially as consumers with darker skin seek to treat conditions like acne, the treatments themselves can lead to an ashy skin appearance due to the drying effects of ingredients like salicylic acid and retinol
Vantage has developed a unique blend of polysaccharides [STRATAPHIX® POLY, INCI: Water (and) Glycerin (and) Laminaria digitata extract (and) Opuntia ficus indica stem extract (and) galactoarabinan (and) schizophyllan] that has superior moisturizing benefits including extended hydration on skin treated with retinol. This unique blend of polysaccharides has been previously shown to influence the skin’s inflammatory processes through control of the skin’s innate immune response More recent work has demonstrated that the blend is also effective at reducing inflammation in skin that has been aggravated by treatments of Cutibacterium acnes with salicylic acid. This poster will describe recent clinical studies undertaken to examine the influence of the polysaccharide blend on individuals with darker skin pigmentation (Fitzpatrick Skin Type IV-VII). Improvements in skin hydration and overall skin appearance over an extended period of treatment time (56 days) will be presented
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NYSCC Skin Care Inclusivity: Caring for Melanated Skin Symposium
n Nicole Terpak
Nicole Terpak is the Principal Scientist for New Product Development at Vantage Specialty Chemicals where her focus is on developing new concepts for the personal care industry as well as coordinating clinical testing. Prior to joining Vantage, Nicole held positions at Millennium Research and Resources of Nature, with roles ranging from creating commercialized for mulations to supervising technical teams in the development of raw materials She has co-authored several articles that have appeared in personal care and cosmetic industry jour nals and has been a member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists for over 20 years.
Innovations in Dermatological Sciences Annual Conference
Are you looking for a candidate that loves the personal care ind enjoys the thrill of designing a make-up product or shampoo? O you are seeking someone with expertise in raw materials M need some help around the lab and could use a tenacious inter n who start their career in the personal care space
The NYSCC Chapter supports you and your business with FREE postings to our webpage. Contact employmentadmin@nyscc.org to have passionate candidates apply to your roles Recent postings include companies such as Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, Kenvue, Olaplex, and Symrise for roles in Sales, Marketing, For mulations, and Regulatory
Below are some positions in the personal care industry that are currently posted on the NYSCC website. For a full description of the jobs, visit https://nyscc.org/jobs.
• Application Development Technician – Momentive – Pearl River, NY
• Business Innovation Manager, Premium Personal Care – Lubrizol – East Coast
JEmerging Trends in Oral Health and Beauty
Emerging Trends in Oral Health and Beauty
October 15, 2024
October 15, 2024
New Brunswick Prefor ming Arts Center
New Brunswick Prefor ming Arts Center
New Brunswick, New Jersey
New Brunswick, New Jersey
oin us for NYSCC’s first event dedicated to exploring the latest trends and advancements in Oral Health and Beauty This event will feature five expert speakers expounding on the hottest topics in the segment Whether you have been working in Oral Care for decades or you ’ re just passionate about your smile, this event has something for you! Topics to be discussed include the oral microbiome, inflammation, the link between oral health and systemic health, and new product for mats revamping the oral care routine This event offers valuable insights and the rare opportunity to network with fellow oral health enthusiasts.
n Event Chairs:
• Jason Nesta (Omya Inc.) – e-mail: jason.nesta@omya.com
To register, visit the Events section of NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org).
n Topics and Speakers:
9:00 – 10:00 a.m. Registration / Breakfast
10:00 – 10:10 a.m. Opening Comments
10:10 – 11:05 a.m. How to Support the Oral Microbiome
Patrick Gonry (Gobiotics)
11:05 a.m. – 12:00 p.m. Beyond the Foam: Uncovering the many Benefits of Fermented Biosurfactants
Dennis Zhang (BASF)
12:00 – 12:50 p.m. Lunch
12:50 – 1:40 p.m. Exploring Diverse Product Formats in Oral Care
Jason Nesta (Omya Inc.)
1:40 – 2:30 p.m. The Oral Health Odyssey: From Monograph to Wellness
Camille Zenobia, Ph.D. (Os Salutem)
2:30 – 2:40 p.m. Break
2:40 – 3:55 p.m. The Interconnection Between Oral Health and Systemic Health
Anne O. Rice, RDH, FAAOSH, CDP (Oral Systemic Seminars)
3:55 – 4:00 p.m. Closing Comments
4:00 – 6:00 p.m. Networking Cocktail Reception
How to Support the Oral Microbiome
Patrick Gonry (Gobiotics)
The oral microbiome not only protects our teeth and gums, but also the health of our entire body
Discover how this microbiome can be so resourceful and powerful Lear n also why we need to brush our teeth twice a day to keep the oral microbiome healthy The impact of fluorine and the beneficial effect of sugar-free chewing gum will be explained. The practical meaning of expressions such as balancing and supporting the microbiome will be uncovered Unfortunately, things can go wrong in the oral cavity. Through in-vivo testing, the supporting effect of prebiotics will be demonstrated. The effects were studied both through mouthwashes and toothpaste
n Patrick Gonry
Patrick graduated as a Chemical Engineer and finished a specialization in Cosmetic Manufacturing and Dermato-Cosmetic Science at the Medical University of Brussels In 1995 he started as a consultant, supporting cosmetic producers and raw material suppliers in product development Since the beginning of his career, the focus of all his developments has been to offer natural and environmentally friendly solutions
Throughout the years, he has trained many cosmetic chemists and technical sales representatives Since 2002 his research has been mainly dedicated to the human microbiota, which resulted in the launch of the first prebiotic ingredient for baby care and intimate hygiene He is the driving force behind many skin microbiota-derived and environmentally friendly concepts, raw materials, and cosmetic products
Beyond the Foam: Uncovering the Many Benefits of Fermented Biosurfactants
Dennis Zhang (BASF)
Surfactants are an integral part of oral care products, providing the cleaning experience consumers seek The most used surfactant is sodium lauryl sulfate, which is under scrutiny for the potential to cause irritation in soft oral tissue. As more and more oral care players are adapting new alter native surfactants, mild and gentle surfactants are gaining popularity W ith the recent development of biosurfactants, we uncovered new features and functionalities of the fermented biodegradable surfactants besides foaming. In this session, we will lear n about the natural processing of sophorolipids (surfaceactive glycolipids) In addition, we will discuss the interaction of a specific type of sophorolipid with oral bacteria and explore its breath refreshening and microbiome balance benefits.
n Dennis Zhang
Dennis Zhang is the Oral Care Technical Service and Application Specialist at BASF where he manages the oral care products portfolio for North America He works closely with both inter nal and exter nal partners to deliver customer excellence Prior to BASF, Dennis spent seven years at Colgate-Palmolive where he had a variety of responsibilities from upstream innovation to product life cycle management for oral care products He ear ned both an M S and B S degree in Chemical Engineering from Rutgers University.
Exploring Diverse Product Formats in Oral Care
Jason Nesta (Omya Inc.)
Home-use oral health and wellness products are continually evolving to meet diverse consumer needs and preferences. This presentation delves deep into the growing diversity of product types available, providing a comprehensive overview of their functions, benefits, and market trends. From toothpaste tablets to pulling oils, each format offers a unique advantage tailored to a specific need We will explore how advancements in technology and shifts in consumer
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Emerging Trends in Oral Health and Beauty
(continued
behavior have influenced the development of these products Additionally, the presentation will highlight emerging for mats and the direction of future innovation in the space Attendees will gain insights into the growing variety of oral care for mats, their individual benefits, and how to best leverage these for mats for future product development
n Jason Nesta
Jason Nesta is an Oral Care veteran with over 12 years of practical experience for mulating toothpaste, mouthwash, and specialty oral care products During that time, he led the development and commercialization of dozens of oral hygiene products, many of which can still be found on store shelves or in pharmacies Jason has presented at the Inter national Association of Dental Research, published in peer reviewed jour nals, and been awarded more than 10 composition of matter patents in the art He received his Bachelor’s degree in Biological Sciences and a Master of Arts degree for Teachers from Fairleigh Dickinson University. Jason is currently the Consumer Goods Market Development and Innovation Manager at Omya Inc
The Oral Health Odyssey: From Monograph to Wellness
Camille Zenobia, Ph.D. (Os Salutem)
The traditional FDA Oral Care Monograph has long shaped our focus on hygiene products, emphasizing the remin-demin cycle of enamel health However, contemporary science reveals that oral inflammation, which can spread to the gut, poses a greater threat to overall health than cavities While caries rates have declined over the past 50 years, 90% of the global population still suffers from oral inflammation This session explores how oral inflammation impacts the mouth's ecology, links to systemic health, and microbial imbalance. We'll discuss ingredients that modulate oral inflammation, revealing surprising insights into how well-intentioned oral hygiene practices can sometimes backfire and simple interventions that can improve health. Join us to lear n how to identify oral care for mulations that support your path to wellness
n Camille Zenobia, Ph.D.
Dr. Zenobia is a highly experienced and accomplished oral health professional with a passion for advancing dental education to improve oral health outcomes
W ith 14 years of research in oral health, she has become a trusted authority in oral health and an influential speaker Her journey in oral health began with Dr Darveau from University of Washington studying the ever-changing LPS structure of Porphyromonas gingivalis during her Ph.D. work. From there, she went on to pursue her postdoctoral fellowship with Dr Hajishengallis at University of Pennsylvania to dive deeper into the host-immune landscape of the oral cavity. Next, she went on to work in industry with Colgate-Palmolive and moved from bench to clinical scientist to drive oral health innovations for the consumer This extensive academic background equipped her with a deep understanding of the intricacies of oral health and a strong foundation in inflammation, immunology, microbial dysbiosis, clinical research, and oral care product interventions
Throughout her career, Dr. Zenobia has been committed to staying at the forefront of oral health advancements She is an editor for both Frontiers and Nature Oral Health jour nal sections and continues to author scientific articles with prominent oral health professionals. This dedication to continuous learning has enabled her to stay abreast of the latest research, technologies, and techniques shaping the field of dentistry As a passionate advocate for oral health education, most recently Dr Zenobia was awarded a Clinical Research Award by the American Academy of Pediatrics (AAP), interviewed by RDH magazine, and lectured for the Integrative Dental Medicine (IDM) Society She also leads the podcast titled “Let’s Get Oral” to drive interest and engagement into the field of oral biology, demonstrating a genuine commitment to driving education and awareness to all categories of oral health
The Interconnection Between Oral Health and Systemic Health
Anne O. Rice, RDH, FAAOSH, CDP (Oral Systemic Seminars)
Asignificant revelation in recent years has been the recognition of the oral microbiome's pivotal role in the development of various systemic and oral diseases. A diverse community of microorganisms inhabits the oral cavity, where they coexist in symbiosis However, when there is a disruption of this microbiome balance (dysbiosis) it profoundly compromises the host's immune response, paving the way for severe pathological conditions like hypertension, diabetes, obesity, and cardiovascular disease Factors such as antimicrobial overuse, dietary shifts, decreased microbiome diversity, genetic predisposition, bacteremia, and alterations in the host immune response mediate oral microbiome dynamics Given that the mouth serves as the gateway to our body's systems, this course will explore dysbiosis, the virulence of crucial periodontal pathogens, and their correlation with different systemic conditions
Objectives:
• Identify primary contributors to oral dysbiosis and the virulence of significant periodontal pathogens
• Gain comprehension of the oral microbiota, and its correlation with various systemic conditions.
• Differentiate the mechanisms that underly the oral-systemic health link
• Recognize what and why of salivary diagnostics
n Anne O.
Rice, RDH, FAAOSH, CDP
Anne is a clinical dental hygienist, speaker, writer, and consultant She is a Certified Dementia Practitioner, a Longevity Specialist with the Alzheimer’s Research and Prevention Foundation, a Fellow with The American Academy for Oral Systemic Health, and in 2021 published her manuscript Alzheimer’s Disease and OralSystemic Health for Frontiers. Anne has consulted with the Weill Cornell Alzheimer’s Prevention Clinic, Florida Atlantic College Center for Brain Health, and Atria Institute. She is on the advisory board of several institutions and writes a column for RDH magazine She has been included in an Inter national Consortium of a diverse network of brain researchers, clinicians, and institutions who support Alzheimer’s prevention
2024 NYSCC Events Calendar
• For updated NYSCC information, visit us on the web at: www.nyscc.org
