MAY 2014 • Vol. 20 No. 5
New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists
www.nyscc.org
2014 NYSCC Antioxidant Symposium Table of Contents 21st Annual NYSCC Golf Outing 2 The Chemistry of Cooking 3 Sun Exposure Symposium 4 29th IFSCC Congress 5
NYSCC Antioxidant Symposium Special Section: Agenda & Registration Information 6-7 Hotel Information 6 Directions to the Symposium 7 Symposium Committee 8 Special Guests of the Symposium: IFSCC Praesidium 8 Scientific Committee 9 Presentation Abstracts 10-21 Poster Technology Session Abstracts 22-31 Career Corner 31 Employment Opportunities 32-34
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ducated consumers are well aware of the many health benefits provided by the antioxidants in their diet. Perhaps less well known (at least by the general public) are the many benefits that topical application of antioxidants contributes to maintaining healthy, younger-looking skin. The NYSCC has put together a world-class international agenda covering many facets of antioxidant technology as related to personal care. This is the FIRST meeting of its kind. Speakers from academia, finished goods manufacturers, and suppliers will join together to provide you with an educational, state-of-the-art look at the most recent advances in antioxidant technology. Speakers include Keynote lecturer Dr. Jean Krutmann, M.D. from IUF – Leibniz Research Institute for Environmental Medicine and Dr. Karen Burke, M.D. with Mt. Sinai Medical Center. The effects of topical treatment and nutritional supplementation with botanical antioxidants on the skin’s health state will be discussed by Drs. Hasan Mukhtar, Ph.D. and Santosh Katiyar, Ph.D.—two pioneers in the field. There will even be an analysis of the antioxidant market by Nikola Matic from Kline & Company. In addition, there will be a concurrent poster technology session including participation from: L’Oréal, Estée Lauder, Ashland, Avon, Solabia Group, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, 3V, Alban Muller, Kobo Products, Lipotec, Marivan Skincare, Nutrasorb, Seppic, Fairleigh Dickinson University, and Energizer Personal Care. Attendees of the event will receive a complimentary book, Antioxidants and the Skin, published in 2013. In addition, everyone who attends will also receive a booklet that contains copies of all of the speaker presentations. You do NOT want to miss this valuable opportunity to learn more about the intriguing science of antioxidants and their applications in skincare. We hope to see you on June 5th at the spectacular venue of the New York Academy of Sciences located on the 40th floor of Building 7 of the World Trade Center Complex in New York, NY. Space is limited so we encourage everyone to register early to avoid being disappointed. (Continued on page 6)
NYSCC
ANTIOXIDANT
SYMPOSIUM
•
JUNE
5th
N e w Yo r k A c a d e m y o f S c i e n c e s , B u i l d i n g 7 , N e w Yo r k , N Y
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2014 NYSCC BOARD OF DIRECTORS & PROGRAM CHAIRS CHAIR
Steve Neidenberg sbn605@aol.com
CHAIR-ELECT
Kim Burch (609) 443-2385 Kim.Burch@elementis.com
TREASURER
O
Marie Thadal (609) 712-3716 nyscctreasurerelect@gmail.com
SECRETARY
Jenna Jelinski (201) 396-8431 jjelinski@morretec.com
ADVISOR
Steve Herman (973) 479-5702 steveh50@optonline.net
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21st Annual NYSCC Golf Outing! Monday, July 28th • Registration 10:45 a.m-12:30 p.m. • Shotgun Start 1:00 p.m.
Sonia Dawson sonia.dawson@croda.com
TREASURER-ELECT
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Royce Brook Golf Club 201 Hamilton Road, Hillsborough, NJ Course Phone: (908) 904-0499
Registe!r Early
Limited Space!
Golf 180 $
per person.
Includes: Box lunch, 18 holes of golf with cart, cocktail reception and dinner…plus door prizes and awards (lowest score, longest drive, and closest to pin).
Andrea Guerrero aguerrero@gattefossecorp.com (862) 324-1063
The outing is open on a first come first serve basis (the course has a limit). You do not have to be an SCC member to play. Foursome reservations are now being accepted (but a foursome is not required).
Amy Marshall (908) 806-4664 amy.marshall@altana.com
Payment must be received by June 30, 2014. Make checks payable to the NYSCCand forward payment to: John DeNoia, Jr., 336 South Mountain Road, New City, NY 10956
Cathy Piterski (678) 730-1643 cpiterski@essentialingredients.com
If you would like to sponsor any of the performance prizes, please contact: John DeNoia, Jr. (845) 664-4862.
MEMBERSHIP
PROGRAM
SPECIAL EVENTS John Denoia (845) 664-4862 jdenoia@espllc.us
COSMETISCOPE EDITOR Roger McMullen roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu
COSMETISCOPE ADVERTISING Bret Clark rbclark@ashland.com
COSMETISCOPE EMPLOYMENT Jason O’Neill (631) 252-2939 Jason.Oneill@kemin.com
21st Annual NYSCC Golf Outing! Payment enclosed ($180.00 per player) n Yes n No
Please complete this form and send it along with checks payable to NYSCC c/o:
John DeNoia, Jr., 336 South Mountain Road, New City, NY 10956 Name(s) ______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ E-mail Address _________________________________________________________________________________________ Phone # _______________________________________________________________________________________________________ Company ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ GOLF: Name #1 _____________________________________________________________________________________ Name #1 _____________________________________________________________________________________________________ Name #2 _____________________________________________________________________________________ Name #2 _____________________________________________________________________________________________________ Name #3 _____________________________________________________________________________________ Name #3 _____________________________________________________________________________________________________ Name #4 _____________________________________________________________________________________ Name #4 _____________________________________________________________________________________________________ NOTE: A foursome is not required as we will combine groups if needed. Please be sure to indicate your e-mail address if you would like to receive confirmation of your registration.
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Group Discount
Upcoming SCC Continuing Education Schedule: June-December 2014 June 25
Cosmetic Formulations
June 25
Basic Skin Science
August 5 August 12
Chemistry & Regulations of Cosmetic Colorants Claims for Skin Care Products – From Biomarkers to Human Studies
September 17
Emulsion Technology
September 25
Sustainable Cosmetic Product Development
October 9 October 16 & 17 November 7
The NYSCC has decided to offer a group discount of 15% to companies who send 5 or more employees to a monthly meeting. All five employees would need to be registered at the same time to receive the discount. Once purchased, registrations are non-refundable.
Emulsifiers for Cosmetic Products: Structures & Practical Application Gums, Thickners & Rheology Modifiers Scale Up & Processing
November 13
Molecular Biology: Gene Expression for the Cosmetic Chemist
December 10
Fragrance As A Science
December 10
Regulatory Update For more information, please visit www.scconline.org.
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Innovation for Hair & Skin
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2014 TRI-Princeton Events Hair & Scalp Biology Workshop • September 15 This one-day intensive workshop on hair and scalp biology, taught by leading hair biologist, Dr. Gillian Westgate, is intended to organize and advance hair and scalp biology as an integral component of hair care product development.
Science Behind Hair Claims • September 16-17 croda.com/na/pc
This course focuses on attributes of hair, together with testing and technical knowledge, leading to the support of product claims. In addition, we will review the media perspective and regulatory aspects of the claims process.
Applied Hair Science Conference • September 18-19 1.625 x 2.5 color
This conference brings together people creating hair care products, today and tomorrow, with the creators of the newest product technology, technical insights, and measurement methods. TRI-Princeton requests abstract submissions on hair science and its applications for podium and poster presentations. We invite all topics related to hair science.
Topics… Fiber science • Biology and ethnic variations • Chemistry and proteomics New measurement techniques • Developing technologies and approaches For more information on all these events contact Eleanor Lehman at events@triprinceton.org; or call (609) 430-4820; or visit the website at www.triprinceton.org/education.
Make note of it…Cosmetiscope Send news of interest, guest editorials, and comments to: Roger McMullen, Editor • E-mail: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu
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The board of directors of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) has announced that it will host the 29th IFSCC Congress on Oct. 23–26, 2016, in Orlando, Florida, USA. The theme of the meeting is “Beyond Dreams into New Frontiers—Inspire, Imagine, Innovate,” and the event will be held at the Dolphin Hotel at the Walt Disney World Resort. The organizing committee for the event includes Guy Padulo (Kobo Products Inc.), Colleen Rocafort (BASF Corp.), and Amy Wyatt (Chanel Inc.), with Padulo chairing the committee, Rocafort chairing the exhibition, and Robert Lochhead, Ph.D., serving as honorary chair of the event. To help promote the event, the SCC will be using QR Code technology. This technology enables individuals to scan the QR code with their smart phones, tablets, and iPads and receive an informative message. So far, two QR Codes have been introduced, with more planned over the next two years. There will be general sessions, a poster session, an exhibition, and three social events. The Committee on Scientific Affairs will again be responsible for the scientific program including both podium and poster presentations. It is expected that the call for papers of both podium and poster presentations will see a record number of abstracts submitted. The 2016 congress organizing committee is currently soliciting sponsorships. The committee is also seeking companies interested in participating at the exhibition that will take place in conjunction with the congress. The Pacific Hall will again be the venue with 50,000 square feet of columnless space. More information on the congress will be forthcoming including a call for papers, the exhibitor prospectus, and the launch of the event's website. See more at: http://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/networking/eventcoverage/161263995.html#sthash.iEC1haPW.dpuf
Upcoming 2013 NYSCC Events Calendar • For updated NYSCC information, visit us on the web at: www.nyscc.org • For National SCC information: www.scconline.org June 5 2014 NYSCC Antioxidant Symposium, New York, NY July 28 21st Annual NYSCC Golf Outing, Hillsborough, NJ September 18 Culinary Event, Midtown Loft, New York, NY October 15 Sun Exposure: Implications and Protection of Skin, Pines Manor, Edison, NJ November 5 Board Transition Meeting, Valley Regency, Clifton, NJ
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Antioxidant Symposium Agenda 9:00 a.m. – 9:50 a.m. 9:50 a.m. – 10:00 a.m.
Breakfast and Registration Opening Remarks – NYSCC Chair Steve Neidenberg and NYSCC Program Chair Cathy Piterski
10:00 a.m. – 10:30 a.m.
Antioxidants and the Skin – Roger L. McMullen, Ph.D. (Ashland Specialty Ingredients and Fairleigh Dickinson University)
10:30 a.m. – 11:00 a.m.
Environmental Effects on Skin: Antioxidant Protection Against Oxidative Challenge – Edward Pelle, Ph.D. (Estée Lauder Research Laboratories)
11:00 a.m. – 11:30 a.m.
Botanical Antioxidants for Health and Beauty of Skin – Hasan Mukhtar, Ph.D. (University of Wisconsin)
11:30 a.m. – 11:45 p.m.
Coffee Break
11:45 a.m. – 12:15 p.m.
IFSCC International Speaker – Changes in Cutaneous Radical Scavenging Activity after Topical and Systemic Application of Antioxidants – Martina Meinke, Ph.D. (Klinik fur Dermatologie, Venerologie und Allergologie, Berlin, Germany)
12:15 p.m. – 12:35 p.m.
Polyphenol-protein Complexes for Stable Delivery of Fruit Antioxidants – Diana Roopchand, Ph.D. and Nava Dayan, Ph.D. (Rutgers University, Nutrasorb, and Dr. Nava Dayan, LLC)
12:35 p.m. – 12:55 p.m.
Oxidative Stress Applied to Aging and Acne Prone Skin – Jean-François Molina (Solabia)
12:55 p.m. – 2:00 p.m.
Lunch – Poster Session
2:00 p.m. – 2:30 p.m.
Keynote Lecture: Role of Topically Applied Antioxidants in Photoprotection Against UV and Infrared A Radiation – Prof. Dr. Jean Krutmann, M.D. (IUF – Leibniz Research Institute for Environmental Medicine)
2:30 p.m. – 3:00 p.m.
Prevention of Ultraviolet Radiation-induced Oxidative Stress in Skin by Dietary Phytochemicals – Santosh Katiyar, Ph.D. (University of Alabama at Birmingham and Birmingham Veterans Affairs Medical Center)
Registration Members Non-Members Students/Unemployed $75 $125 $0 $150 $200 $100 For registration, visit www.nyscc.org.
Registration: Late registration:
For additional information regarding registration, please contact John Carola at JohnC@protameen.com.
Hotel Accomodation Club Quarters • World Trade Center, 140 Washington Street, New York, NY 10006
Arrival: June 4th • Departure: June 5th or 6th Club Standard Superior
June 4th – $271 June 4th – $291 June 4th – $311
June 5th – $236 June 5th – $256 June 5th – $276
All rates are exclusive of tax and based on single occupancy. There is a charge of $15 for each additional person, age 12 and over. Individuals can call or e-mail directly to our Member Services Department to make room reservations. Member Services can be reached at (203) 905-2100 from Monday – Friday, 7:00 a.m.–11:00 p.m. and Saturday, 10:00 a.m.–6:00 p.m. (EST); or via e-mail at memberservices@clubquarters.com. Please mention that you will be attending the NYSCC Antioxidant Symposium at the New York Academy of Sciences. 6
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Antioxidant Symposium Agenda
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3:00 p.m. – 3:20 p.m.
Antioxidants for Skin Health – Kelly Delgado (Kemin)
3:20 p.m. – 3:40 p.m.
A Natural Meroterpene Providing Skin Benefits by Modulating Multiple Molecular Targets – Ratan Chaudhuri, Ph.D. (Sytheon Ltd.)
3:40 p.m. – 4:00 p.m.
Coffee Break
4:00 p.m. – 4:30 p.m.
The Need for Topical Antioxidants to Achieve Protection and Reversal of Environmental Damage of the Skin – Karen Burke, Ph.D., M.D. (Mt. Sinai Medical Center)
4:30 p.m. – 4:50 p.m.
The Biologic Clock: The Mitochondria – Karine Cucumel, Ph.D. (Ashland Specialty Ingredients – Vincience)
4:50 p.m. – 5:20 p.m.
Antioxidants Within the Global Specialty Active Ingredients Market: Current Situation and Outlook – Nikola Matic (Kline)
5:20 p.m. – 5:40 p.m.
Fucus Extract: A New Approach for the Treatment of Under-eye Dark Circles – Manasi Chavan, Ph.D. (BASF Beauty Creations)
5:40 p.m. – 6:00 p.m.
Antioxidants as Antiagers: Emerging Evidence for the Reduction of Visible Signs of Skin Aging – Roberto Dal Toso, Ph.D. (Sederma)
6:00 p.m. – 6:05 p.m.
Closing Remarks – NYSCC Chair Steve Neidenberg and Symposium Chair Roger L. McMullen, Ph.D.
6:05 p.m. – 7:30 p.m.
Cocktail Reception
Transportation to the World Trade Center NYSCC Bus Service
The NYSCC will be offering complementary bus service to this event. Buses will be available and leave promptly at 8:00 a.m. from two locations in New Jersey: • Parking lot behind Harold’s New York Deli: 3050 Woodbridge Avenue, Edison, NJ (Right by Edison Hotel) • Garden State Plaza: Between Chili’s and Candy store. Left corner near service road. Attendees planning on utilizing the NYSCC bus service must reserve a seat. Please contact Yelena Zolotarsky for reservations at Yelena.Zolotarsky@sensient.com. Please write ‘Edison, NJ Bus’ or ‘Garden State Plaza Bus’ in the subject title. n
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2, 3 to Park Place A, C to Chambers Street
• E to World Trade Center • R to Cortlandt Street
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4, 5 or J, Z to Fulton Street
PATH Rail System
Fares on the PATH system are $2.25 per trip. Service to the World Trade Center is available from Newark Penn Station, Jersey City, and Hoboken in New Jersey. When you arrive at WTC, the Vesey Street exit will put you just in front of 7 World Trade Center. n
Symposium Location: The New York Academy of Sciences 7 World Trade Center, 250 Greenwich Street, 40th Floor, New York, NY 10007-2157 • (212) 298-8600
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Parking Near 7 World Trade Center • 207 Greenwich Street, at Murray St. between Greenwich Street and West Side Highway – (212) 374-1685 • Barclay Street between Broadway and Church Street – (212) 732-2943 • 44 West Broadway, between Murray Street and Park Place – (212) 732-6637 • 69 Warren Street, at West Broadway – (212) 233-5688 • 345 South End Avenue, at Liberty Street – (212) 321-2316 • 35 Reade Street, at Broadway (6:00 AM - 1:00 AM) – (212) 566-2247 • 90 West Street, at Albany Street – (212) 227-8854 • Washington Street, at Carlisle Street – (212) 619-4235 • 121 Reade Street, between Hudson Street and Greenwich Street – (212) 608-3060
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2014 Antioxidant Symposium Thank You to Our Voulunteers & Sponsors “Dedicated to the advancement of cosmetic science, the Society of Cosmetic Chemists” strives to increase and disseminate scientific information through meetings and publications. By promoting research in cosmetic science and industry, and by setting high ethical, professional and educational standards, we reach our goal of improving the qualifications of cosmetic scientists. Our mission is to further the interests and recognition of cosmetic scientists while maintaining the confidence of the public in the cosmetic and toiletries industry.” The NYSCC takes this opportunity to expresses its gratitude to those companies whose employees volunteered much of their personal time to the success of the 2014 Antioxidant Symposium. Without such dedicated volunteers it would be impossible to achieve the SCC’s goals and mission statement. NYSCC Chair • Steve Neidenberg (Jeen)
NYSCC Advisor • Steve Herman
NYSCC Educational Committee Chair • Cathy Piterski (Essential Ingredients)
Antioxidant Symposium Committee • Chair – Roger L. McMullen, Ph.D. (Ashland) • Poster Session – Bret Clark (Ashland) • Hotel & Travel – Yelena Zolotarsky (Sensient) • Registration – John Carola (Protameen) • Publications – Daphne Benderly, Ph.D. (Presperse) • Catering – Jenna Jelinski (Extracts & Ingredients) • Adviser – Joe Albanese (3V)
IFSCC Praesidium The New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists, a chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, is honored that the IFSCC Praesidium is conducting their Spring meeting in conjunction with the NYSCC Antioxidant Symposium. We wish them a warm welcome to New York. Jadir Nunes (Brazil) (current President of IFSCC)
Susan Hurst (UK)
Claudie Willemin (France) (current VP of IFSCC)
Andrea Weber (Germany)
Fuji Kanda (Japan)
Roy Gardiner (South Africa)
Miki Minamino (Japan)
Amy Wyatt (USA)
Ki Ho Kim (Korea)
Martha Tate (USA)
Philippe Auderset (Switzerland)
Lorna Weston (UK-IFSCC Secretary General)
The NYSCC Board would also like to express their gratitude to SCC Board Member, Dawn Thiel Glaser, for her support in coordinating the IFSCC Praesidium meeting to concur with the Antioxidant Symposium. 8
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Thank you to all of the companies supporting the 2014 NYSCC Antioxidant Symposium by participating in the Poster Session.
Scientific Advisory Committee Roger L. McMullen, Ph.D. (Ashland) Peter Foltis, M.S. (L’Oréal) • Gopi Menon, Ph.D. (Ashland) Neelam Muizzudin, Ph.D. (Estée Lauder) • Vince Gruber, Ph.D. (Lonza)
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Antioxidant Symposium Presentations & Speakers Antioxidants and the Skin …Roger L. McMullen, Ph.D. Ashland Specialty Ingredients, Bridgewater, NJ USA
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he damaging effects of free radicals in human health and disease has received significant attention over the last several decades by the scientific community and the general public. With this growing concern, a tremendous deal of research has been conducted to understand the nature of free radical damage and various means to suppress it by supplementation with antioxidants. Within the personal care industry and the dermatological community, the effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation on skin has received considerable attention since it is responsible for skin cancer, immunosuppression, and premature skin aging. As a consequence of exposure to UV light, free radicals are formed in skin causing damage to DNA, proteins, and lipids. This results in altered cell function and eventually to pathology. In the last two decades, great strides have been achieved in understanding the molecular mechanisms and signaling pathways that take place during such events. The skin possesses a complex antioxidant network that protects itself from environmental insult. Unfortunately, this system can become overwhelmed and require fortification with exogenous antioxidants. In this overview, we survey the literature to provide a summary of the most utilized antioxidant systems in cosmetic products as well as examine some methodologies used to assess the antioxidant efficacy of treatments applied to skin. In addition, we will discuss important aspects of formulating antioxidants and their current use in the market place.
About the Speaker… Currently, Roger is a Principal Scientist in the Materials Science Department at Ashland Specialty Ingredients. He received a B.S. in Chemistry from Saint Vincent College and completed a Ph.D. in Biophysical Chemistry at Seton Hall University. Roger has over 17 years of experience in the Personal Care industry, having worked in many facets of product development and claims substantiation leading to the commercial launch of new technologies. His work and professional activities reflect his dedication and service to the personal care industry with specialties in imaging and optical techniques used in conjunction with image analysis to quantify various properties of hair and skin, spectrofluorescence of hair and skin, mechanical measurements of personal care substrates, and various aspects of R&D related to the use of antioxidants and other active ingredients in skin care. Roger actively speaks at international conferences and is the primary author of over 25 peer-reviewed book chapters and journal articles. He is also the author of the book, Antioxidants and the Skin, published in 2013. For the past seven years, Roger has been the editor of the monthly periodical, Cosmetiscope, of the New York Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists. He is also an Adjunct Professor at Fairleigh Dickinson University, where he teaches Biochemistry to students in the Cosmetic Science Master’s program. Prior to pursuing a career in science, Roger served in the U.S. Navy onboard the vessel, USS YORKTOWN (CG 48). _______________________________________________________________________________________
Environmental Effects on Skin: Antioxidant Protection Against Oxidative Challenge …Edward Pelle, Ph.D. Skin Biology, Estée Lauder R&D, Melville, New York Environmental Medicine, New York University School of Medicine, New York
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daptation to an aerobic terrestrial environment was a great evolutionary advantage to those organisms that were able to adapt to this biological niche. However, it did not come without a price and that price is reactive oxygen species from both endogenous and exogenous sources. In this seminar, I will discuss how exogenous sources such as UV, ozone, and cigarette smoke induce reactive
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oxygen species in human skin, which is the first line of defense against environmental trauma. Although oxidative stress leads to the generation of lipid peroxides, hydrogen peroxide, oxidized DNA, and other forms of biological damage, nature has also provided us with an array of antioxidants and antioxidant enzymes that counteract the effects of reactive oxygen species and free radical damage. These deleterious oxidizable biomolecules and their protection by antioxidants can be measured and used for cosmetic product claim substantiation. Moreover, due to the complexity of cosmetic formulations, addition of antioxidants to formulations and then measuring their efficacy can be a challenging task and will also be discussed. In summary, topical application of antioxidant-containing products provides protection against environmentally-induced cutaneous oxidative stress.
About the Speaker… Edward Pelle is a Director in the Skin Biology Laboratory in the R&D Department of the Estée Lauder Companies where he studies the effects of environmental stressors on skin. Dr. Pelle is also an Adjunct Assistant Professor in Environmental Medicine, New York University School of Medicine where he has collaborated on several projects with other faculty. He received a B.S. from Fordham University and an M.S. and Ph.D. from New York University and has authored, or co-authored, over thirty peer-reviewed publications, six review articles, numerous abstracts, and holds over fifteen U.S. patents. __________________________________________________________________
Botanical Antioxidants in Prevention of Adverse Effects of Ultraviolet Radiation and Photoaging …Hasan Mukhtar, Ph.D. Department of Dermatology, University of Wisconsin, Madison, USA
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xcessive exposure to solar UV radiation, particularly its UVB component, leads to the development of various skin disorders, including erythema, edema, inflammation, hyperpigmentation, hyperplasia, immunosuppression, skin cancers, and photoaging. Development of novel strategies to reduce the occurrence of these UV-induced effects is highly desirable. One approach to reduce their occurrence is through ‘Photochemoprevention’, which we define as ‘the use of agents capable of ameliorating the adverse effects of UV radiation on the skin’. Photochemoprevention has been appreciated as a viable approach to reduce the occurrence of skin cancer and photoaging and in recent years, the use of agents, especially botanical antioxidants, present in the common diet and beverages consumed by the human population have gained considerable attention as photochemopreventive agents for human use. Many such agents have also found a place in skin care products. Although this is more common in Oriental countries, its popularity is rapidly gaining popularity in Western countries. Animal model and cell culture studies have clarified that botanical antioxidants act by several mechanisms to delay skin carcinogenesis and photoaging. This presentation will focus on the effects of selected botanical antioxidants in the prevention of UV-induced effects and photoaging. Specific examples of our studies with constituents of green tea and pomegranate fruit will be highlighted. We suggest that the use botanical antioxidants in conjunction with the use of sunscreens and educational efforts to avoid excessive sun exposure may be an effective strategy for reduction of incidence of skin cancer, photoaging, and other UV-mediated damages in human.
About the Speaker… Dr. Hasan Mukhtar is Helfaer Professor of Cancer Research, Director and Vice Chair for Research, Department of Dermatology, School of Medicine and Public Health, University of Wisconsin, Madison, Wisconsin, USA. He is also the Co-leader of Cancer Chemoprevention Program, Paul P. Carbone Comprehensive Cancer Center, University of Wisconsin. He is the author of 490 original peer reviewed publications, many in very high impact journals and is the author of 74 book chapters and two books. He serves as an Editorial Board member/Associate Editor of 36 scientific journals that include Experimental (Continued on page 12)
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Dermatology, Photochemistry and Photobiology, Clinical Cancer Research, Carcinogenesis, International Journal of Cancer, Apoptosis Molecular Nutrition and Food Research, Nutrition & Cancer, and Photodermatology, Photoimmunology and Photomedicine. He serves on grant review committees of National Institutes of Health, Department of Veterans Affairs, Department of Defense, and many private organizations. Dr. Mukhtar has deep passion for research in investigative dermatology and use of natural products for skin diseases and cancer chemoprevention with focus on skin, lung, and prostate cancers. Dr. Mukhtar is well known for his research work defining adverse effects of ultraviolet radiation on skin, skin cancer mechanisms, and the role of botanical antioxidants to prevent such damages. Dr. Mukhtar obtained a Ph.D. in Biochemistry in 1971 from Kanpur University, India. _______________________________________________________________________________________
Changes in Cutaneous Radical Scavenging Activity After Topical and Systemic Application of Antioxidants …Martina C. Meinke, Ph.D. A. Friedrich, S. Arndt, A. Lauer, M. E. Darvin, and J. Lademann Charité – Universitätsmedizin Berlin, Klinik für Dermatologie, Venerologie und Allergologie, Germany The Soul & Science of Beauty. www.evonik.com/personal-care
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nhanced formation of radicals in the skin can lead to premature skin aging and skin cancer. This could be caused by solar exposure which is the most prominent noxa, but smoking and stress also induce free radicals such as reactive oxygen species and can induce lipid oxidation and cell damage. Exogenous antioxidants such as vitamin C, vitamin E, or carotenoids can prevent cell damage scavenging the short-lived free radicals. Exogenous antioxidants must be taken up by nutrition or can be topically applied. Electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) spectroscopy can be used to measure the radical scavenging activity of a cream, or an extract as well as its action in the skin. Recent in vivo investigations have shown that the intake and the topical application of antioxidants can enhance the radical scavenging activity of the skin and therefore its antioxidative capacity.The so called radical protection factor (RPF) was determined measuring the depletion of an added test radical in the cream or extract using X-band EPR spectroscopy. To investigate the antioxidant capacity of the skin its radical scavenging activity was measured before and after the intake of lipophilic and hydrophilic antioxidants in placebo controlled studies on healthy volunteers using in vivo L-band EPR spectroscopy. This method determined the rate constant of a decreasing test radical over time applied on the skin. A high rate constant correlates with a high antioxidant capacity. Furthermore, the radical formation after VIS-NIR irradiation was studied before and after the application of a cream rich in antioxidants and the oral application of curly kale. Studies have shown that the intake of antioxidants such as vitamin C, as well as chokeberry and curly kale extracts enhanced the radical scavenging activity of the skin significantly. All samples showed moderate or high RPF values. For vitamin C a significant enhancement was shown after 2 and 4 weeks, the chokeberry extract, mainly consisting of flavonoids and polyphenols, showed a comparable effect after 4 weeks and the curly kale extract, mainly consisting of carotenoids, showed significant differences after 8 weeks. The curly kale extract also enhanced the carotenoids in the skin significantly, which was measured using resonance Raman spectroscopy. Furthermore, the curly kale extract had shown to protect against radical formation in the skin subsequent to VIS-NIR irradiation. This protection effect was even more pronounced when a cream rich in hyperforin had been topically applied on the skin for 4 weeks
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twice daily. The protection had been effective for the complete day of application. Single applications showed also a short time effect. Interestingly, major differences in radical formation between in vivo and ex vivo investigations were found. As a result of these investigations we conclude that the EPR technique is a valuable tool to measure the antioxidant capacity of the skin and the effects of antioxidant substances, whether topically or systemically applied. This will permit specific approaches towards prevention of cell damage, premature skin aging, and skin cancer.
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About the Speaker‌ Dr. Martina Meinke studied chemistry at the Free University of Berlin and completed her Ph.D. in 1994. Afterwards she managed a laboratory for environmental analysis until 1999. Then she switched to the medical diagnostics field working at the Department of Dermatology of CharitÊ and the Laser- und Medizin-Technologie Berlin. In 2006 she finished her postgraduate studies of Medical Physics and since 2007 she has been assistant professor at the CharitÊ – Universitätsmedizin Berlin. Her research fields are optical and spectroscopic methods to determine skin physiological parameters with main focus on electron paramagnetic resonance spectroscopy. _______________________________________________________________________________________
Polyphenol-Protein Complexes for Stable Delivery of Fruit Antioxidants Diana Roopchand1, 2, Diana Cheng2, Natalia Pogrebnyak1, Kristin Moskal2, Alexander Poulev1, Ilya Raskin1, and Nava Dayan3 1
Rutgers, The State University of New Jersey, School of Environmental and Biological Sciences, Foran Hall, 59 Dudley Road, New Brunswick, NJ 08901 2 Nutrasorb LLC, 675 US Highway 1, North Brunswick, NJ, 08902 3 Dr. Nava Dayan L.L.C; Fair Lawn NJ 07410
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ntioxidant polyphenols found in fruits and vegetables have been shown to protect the skin from oxidative stress and inflammation associated with UV exposure. The ability to mitigate oxidative stress is directly linked to compound stability; however, polyphenols in conventional plant extracts are poorly stable. We present a novel approach to stabilize precious antioxidants by generating polyphenolprotein complexes. These are created utilizing proprietary NutrasorbÂŽ technology, which uses protein-rich, food-based matrices, such as soy protein isolate (SPI) or defatted soy flour (DSF) to naturally sorb, concentrate, and stabilize the polyphenols from plant extracts/juices. Alternative matrices include, pea, hemp, or whey protein. Biochemical characterization of blueberry, cranberry, and grape polyphenolprotein complexes demonstrated that SPI or DSF matrices efficiently sorbed the broad spectrum of polyphenols present in these fruits. When complexed to SPI or DSF, anthocyanins, proanthocyanidins, and total polyphenols were stable at 37 ÂşC for durations of three months to a year. Polyphenol-protein complexes can be standardized to contain up to 10% of fruit polyphenols with robust antioxidant and antibacterial properties. Polyphenol-protein complexes may be used in a variety of cosmetic formulations and are available in an assortment of vibrant or neutral colors.
About the Speakers‌ Dr. Diana Roopchand recently completed an NIH Postdoctoral Fellowship in the laboratory of Prof. Ilya Raskin and currently serves as a member of the Research Faculty at Rutgers University. Dr. Roopchand received her doctorate from the Biochemistry Department of McGill University in Canada and has worked on research projects in both the pharmaceutical and dietary supplement industries. Her training and research has been funded by awards from both Canadian and U.S. granting agencies. Dr. Roopchand received the Arthur C. Neish Young Investigator Award in 2013 from the Phytochemical Society of North America for her recent work as co-inventor of a new technology that naturally concentrates bioactive compounds from fruits and vegetables into food-based matrices. (Continued on page 14)
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Dr. Nava Dayan is the owner of Dr. Nava Dayan L.L.C, a skin science and research consultancy located in New Jersey, USA, and serving the pharmaceutical, cosmetic, and personal care industries: dermal and transdermal. Nava offers consulting for product feasibility in skin care, composition of R&D plans covering efficacy and toxicology, planning, execution, and data interpretation into claims of experiments during the processes of drug discovery as well as formulations, delivery for improved efficacy, and attenuated toxicity. Sample of expertise includes: drug-skin interaction, bio-markers (genomics and proteomics), skin/age related sensitivities, inflammatory skin disorders, innate immunity, and biota. She also conducts customized education classes. Nava has 24 years of experience in the greater skin care segment, and has authored more than 150 publications in numerous industry-respected journals and in four books. She has been awarded the In-Cosmetics Gold Award for innovation and commensurate recognition from the NYSCC and the CRS for excellence. Nava has a wide network of CRO’s with whom she is working to fine tune and execute R&D. E-mail: nava.dayan@verizon.net. _______________________________________________________________________________________
Oxidative Stress Applied to Aging and Acne Prone Skin ‌ Jean-François Molina Solabia Group, 29 rue Delizy, 93698 Pantin, France
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ike the inflammation process, oxidative stress is at the very heart of various cutaneous disequilibria related to aging and to “so-called� Oxid’Aging. However, it is not limited to that only as it also can be responsible for intensifying acne conditions. It is well accepted today that oxidative stress results from an increase of daily skin aggressions, decreases of the natural antioxidant defenses over time, and the too often mobilizing of them. The consequences are numerous: on one hand, the acceleration of aging, reaching, in extreme circumstances, a real skin burnout. On the other hand, the sebum is qualitatively and quantitatively damaged, thereby leading not only to the formation of blackheads but also to the stimulation of the growth of Propionibacterium acnes with related inflammatory consequences. Among the natural molecules acting against it, polyphenols are a large family of well known compounds found in plants that help protect themselves from UV light thanks to their neutralizing chemical structure. The molecules can be obtained by traditional extraction or, even better, by biotransforming them into dimers to increase their activity level. Two different examples will be presented: 1) The use of condensed (e.g., proanthocyanidic oligomers) and hydrolysable tannins (e.g., ellagic acid) from raspberry and blackcurrant bush leaves to add a fifth pilar to the treatment of acne trouble. 2) The biotechnological dimerizing of quercetin from a concentrated extract of Sophora japonica to stimulate the natural antioxidant skin capacity while repairing the resulting skin damages.
Keywords: oxidative stress, oily skin prone to acne, sebum oxidation, laccase technology, enzymatic biocatalysis, polyphenol oligomers, Oxid’Aging, skin burnout.
About the Speaker‌ Jean-François Molina is currently Sales & Marketing Director at the Solabia Group, a French company specialized in the development and manufacturing of active ingredients from biotechnology, fine chemistry, and vegetal extraction. He earned his Engineering Degree in Biotechnology in 1987 at the University of Aix-Marseille and his Master’s in Marketing Product Innovation in 1989. For more than 20 years at the Solabia Group he held successively the positions of Export Manager, Marketing Manager, and today oversees the global operations of the Solabia group’s subsidiaries, in particular SOLABIA USA.
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Role of Topically Applied Antioxidants in Photoprotection Against UV and Infrared A Radiation … Jean Krutmann, M.D. – Keynote Lecturer Professor of Dermatology and Environmental Medicine, Director, IUF – Leibniz Research Institute for Environmental Medicine, Düsseldorf, Germany
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olar radiation is well known to exert a variety of detrimental effects on human skin and to contribute to photoaging and photocarcinogenesis. For a long time, the responsible wavelengths were thought to be in the ultraviolet (UV) range. As a consequence, photoprotection was mainly concerned with the development of sunscreens which protect against UVB (290 – 320 nm) and UVA (320 – 400 nm) radiation. At this time it was also recognized that topical application of antioxidants such as vitamin C, if adequately formulated, provided significant protection against UV radiation-induced skin damage. More recently, however, it was discovered that wavelengths in the near infrared range, ie. infrared A (IRA) radiation (760 – 1400 nm), exert biological effects on human skin as well as significantly contribute to photoaging. Accordingly, in independent studies we and others have shown in vitro as well as in vivo that IRA radiation from solar radiation, which very well penetrates into human skin and reaches the dermis at significant dose levels, contributes to photoaging by leading to increased expression and activity of the collagen degrading enzyme matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) in dermal fibroblasts. We have also recently shown by microarray analysis of the IRA-induced transcriptome in primary human skin fibroblasts that IRA radiation regulates 599 transcripts. The IRA-induced transcriptome differed from changes induced by UV and included genes relevant not only for extracellular matrix, but also for calcium homeostasis, stress signaling, and apoptosis, indicating that the biological consequences exerted by IRA radiation on human skin may extend beyond MMP-1 regulation/photoaging. These studies strongly indicate that effective photoprotection of human skin should not be limited to UV protection, but include measures to protect human skin against IRA. In this regard we have recently shown that IRA radiation-induced MMP-1 expression is mediated via a retrograde signaling response, which is initiated within mitochondria and which can be prevented in vitro and, most importantly, in vivo in human skin by means of selected antioxidants. Accordingly, we have recently conducted a number of controlled, randomized studies which clearly show that protection against IRA radiation can not be achieved by conventional sunscreens containing UV filters only, but instead require the addition of specific antioxidants.
About the Speaker… Prof. Dr. Jean Krutmann, M.D. currently holds the position of Professor and Scientific Director at IUF – Leibniz-Research Institute for Environmental Medicine at the Heinrich-Heine-University, Düsseldorf. He completed his medical degree in 1985 at Westfälische Wilhelms University, Münster, Germany and later completed a post-doctoral fellowship at the Photoimmunology and Immuno-dermatology Laboratory at Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (1985-1987). He also did post-doctoral work at University Hospital of Dermatology, Vienna, Austria (1988). Dr. Krutmann held the post of Associate Professor at the University of Freiburg from 1989 to 1994 where he also qualified for habilitation—the highest academic qualification in Europe and many other countries—in Dermatology and Venereology. Dr. Krutmann has received numerous awards throughout his career including the International Arnold-Rikli-Award for Photobiology (1990); CE.R.I.E.S. Research Support Award (1998); DermopharmacyInnovation-Award of the German Society of Dermopharmacy (2003); and Xu Guang Qi Lecturer, Shanghai Institute for Biological Sciences (CAS), Shanghai, China (2013). He has also held various appointments such as: Adjunct Professor of Dermatology, Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio, USA (1997); Adjunct Professor of Dermatology, University of Alabama Medical School, Birmingham, AL, USA (1999); Adjunct and Visiting Professor Medical Faculty of the Nagoya City (Continued on page 16)
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University, Japan (2006); Honorary Member of the American Dermatological Association (2009); and Member of the National Academy of Science of Germany (2010). Dr. Krutmann’s dedication and service to the dermatological community is evident by his outstanding achievements in addition to over 250 peer-reviewed articles that bear his name. He is a world-class researcher in the field of dermatology and we are honored to have him here with us today. _______________________________________________________________________________________
Prevention of Ultraviolet Radiation-Induced Oxidative Stress in the Skin by Dietary Phytochemicals … Santosh K. Katiyar, Ph.D. University of Alabama at Birmingham, Birmingham, AL, and Birmingham Veterans Affairs Medical Center, Birmingham, AL, 35294
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xtensive exposure of the skin to solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation induces several adverse effects, including the induction of oxidative stress, which has been implicated in DNA damage of skin cells, suppression of immune system, premature aging of the skin, and initiation of skin cancers. Attempts have been made to discover new and more effective anti-oxidant agents which can neutralize or inhibit the effect of UV-induced oxidative stress in the skin. Phytochemicals offer promising options for the prevention of UVinduced oxidative stress and oxidative stress-mediated adverse effects in the skin. Among many dietary phytochemicals, green tea polyphenols, and in particular, (-)-epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG), have been widely studied for their anti-oxidant effects in the skin either exposed to UV radiation or any other chemical oxidant. We have shown that topical treatment of the skin with EGCG before or after UV irradiation inhibits UV-induced oxidative stress. EGCG inhibits UV-induced: (i) infiltration of leukocytes, specifically the CD11b+ cell type, which are the major source of ROS generation, (ii) myeloperoxidase activity, (iii) increases in H2O2-producing cells and inducible nitric oxide synthase expressing cells, (iv) and subsequently the production of H2O2 and NO, and protein oxidation in UV-irradiated skin. Identical chemopreventive effects of EGCG were also found when human skin was exposed to UV radiation. To delineate the inhibition of UV-induced oxidative stress with cell signaling pathways, we have found that EGCG inhibits UV radiationinduced phosphorylation of proteins of mitogen activated protein kinases (MAPK) family which is associated with the risk of various skin diseases including the risk of photocarcinogenesis. As UV-induced oxidative stress plays a critical role in the induction of photocarcinogenesis, it was observed that topical treatment of mouse skin with EGCG significantly inhibited the development of skin tumors in UV-exposed skin sites. These chemopreventive effects were also found when green tea polyphenols were given in drinking water of mice. It is tempting to suggest that green tea polyphenols may be useful for the prevention and treatment of solar UV radiation-induced human skin disorders.
About the Speaker… Santosh K. Katiyar, Ph.D., is a Professor of Dermatology at the University of Alabama at Birmingham, Birmingham, AL, and Birmingham VA Medical Center, Birmingham, AL, USA. He has made significant contribution towards the understanding of natural plant products, particularly dietary bioactive components, on the prevention of ultraviolet radiation-induced adverse effects in the skin using in vitro and in vivo animal models. He focused on studying the molecular targets, particularly immunological alterations induced by UV radiation, oxidative stress, inflammation, epigenetic regulators, DNA damage and DNA repair, and development of newer and more effective agents for skin cancer chemoprevention. He also has interest to investigate and develop new phytochemicals for the prevention of the invasive or metastatic potential of melanoma cells and other cancer cells. Dr. Katiyar has published approximately 200 original articles in his field of interest in highly peer-reviewed journals, serves as a reviewer for manuscripts in approximately 40 different scientific journals, and serves in several grant review committees, such as National Institutes of Health (NIH), Veterans Administration (VA), Department of Defense (DOD), and various national and international universities and funding organizations.
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Antioxidants for Skin Health … Kelly Delgado
PTFE Additives for Personal Care Products
Beauty is More Than Skin Deep
Global Accounts Sales Manager, Personal Care Division, Kemin Industries, Inc. 2100 Maury Street, Des Moines, Iowa 50317
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igns of premature skin aging caused by a lifetime of damaging environmental exposure can appear in the form of wrinkles, dryness, sagging, and discoloration of the skin. Antioxidants naturally present in human skin provide some protection from environmental assault; however, the protective capacity of the skin is rapidly depleted over time. Topical applications that have antioxidants can be used to assist the skin’s natural defense against free radical damage and thereby slow down the signs of skin aging. The two studies shown here explore the use of two natural antioxidants for skin benefits. Lutein, which belongs to the class of carotenoid, is a well known antioxidant. The clinical study presented exhibits the benefits of using lutein in topical applications. When applied topically, lutein helps to protect skin from the long-term damaging effects of the sun, as well as improve skin hydration, elasticity, and reduce the appearance of premature aging. The second antioxidant studied was from rosemary, a well-known herb with many beneficial effects. The rosemary extract provides skin benefits through skin conditioning, skin soothing, and ability to quench reactive oxygen species.
About the Speaker… Kelly currently serves as Global Accounts Sales Manager for the Personal Care Division of Kemin Industries, Inc. Kelly previously was with Active Organics where she managed the East Coast territory for three years. Prior to joining Active Organics, Kelly worked at Avon Corporation as a skin care chemist where she worked on anti-acne, SPF, anti-bacterial, and anti-aging formulas. She also held research roles conducting microbiology work at both Avon and Reckitt Benckiser. Kelly received a Bachelor’s of Science Degree in Molecular Biology from Montclair State University, Montclair, NJ in 2006. __________________________________________________________________
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A Natural Meroterpene Providing Skin Benefits by Modulating Multiple Molecular Targets …Ratan K. Chaudhuri, Ph.D. Sytheon Ltd., 315 Wootton Street, Boonton, NJ 07005
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eroterpenes are terpenes which have an aromatic ring in the chemical structure and are known to have broad-spectrum antoxidant properties. The term meroterpenoid was first applied by Cornforth, in 1968, to describe natural products of mixed biosynthetic origin which are partially derived from terpenoids. For this presentation, Bakuchiol (Phenol, 4-[1E, 3S)-3-ethenyl-3, 7-dimethyl-1, 6-octadienyl), a fascinating natural compound, has been selected to elaborate its role in skin care products. It is quite clear from the author’s own work and the current available literature that Bakuchiol is a broad-spectrum antioxidant and provides skin benefits by modulating antioxidant and multiple nonantioxidant pathways. The main focus of this presentation is topical applications of Bakuchiol in providing preventative and restorative anti-aging, anti-acne, skin lightening, and even-toning properties. Moreover, this review has been extended to include a few key targets that may have implications beyond skin care. Mechanistically, both 4-hydroxystyryl and terpenic moieties of the compound seem to be important for its bioactivity. An overview of the various classes of genes, transcription factors, and enzymes known to be inhibited/downregulated (or activated/up-regulated) by Bakuchiol will be provided.
About the Speaker… Dr. Ratan Chaudhuri is Founder, President, and CEO of Sytheon Ltd., a developer and marketer of evidence-based and patented cosmetic skin care ingredients company. Dr. Chaudhuri has been in the cosmetics industry for (Continued on page 18)
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over 25 years. Before starting Sytheon Ltd. in 2006, Dr. Chaudhuri was Director of Cosmetics Research & Applications at EMD Chemicals Inc. (an affiliate of Merck Germany) and prior to that he was R&D TO F O R M U L AT E Manager at International Specialty Products (ISP). Dr. Chaudhuri has been instrumental in conceptualizing Y O U R F U T U R E and commercializing numerous products in the Cosmetics, Industrial, and Pharmaceutical markets. He is the inventor of several personal care products: Oxynex® ST, Emblica®, Synovea® HR, Sytenol® A, Asyntra® SL, Synactin® AC, Synastol® TC, Synoxyl® HSS, Synoxyl® HCP, and many others, and helped market these products successfully. Dr. Chaudhuri is a frequent speaker at national and international scientific meetings. He is a member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, American Chemical Society, and Personal Care Products Council. contact@rossow-usa.com Dr. Chaudhuri has sixty-eight issued U.S. and foreign patents. He has published over seventy scientific +1 (855) 776-7769 papers and written several book chapter articles. His recent two chapter articles, one on Hexylresorcinol www.rossow-usa.com and the other one on Bakuchiol, have been accepted for publication in Cosemeceutcal & Active Cosmetics, 3rd Edition, Eds. Raja S. Sivamani, Jared Jagdeo, Peter Elsner, and Howard I. Maibach, 2014. 13/05/2014 1 09:02:09 _______________________________________________________________________________________ 140512 - ROSSOW Pub_Cosmetiscope.indd R E S O U R C E S
The Need for Topical Antioxidants to Achieve Protection and Reversal of Environmental Damage of the Skin …Karen E. Burke, M.D., Ph.D. Department of Dermatology, Mt. Sinai Medical Center, New York, New York
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ven with increased sunscreen application, full UV protection can rarely be achieved: Not only does exposure to UVA as well as to UVB cause free radical damage that is only partially eliminated by sunscreen, but also the skin suffers synergistic damage from UVA in combination with ubiquitous pollutants. Our laboratory demonstrated that benzo[a]pyrene (a major environmental pollutant) is a photosensitizer which generates reactive oxygen species upon exposure to UVA. Evidence of this damage and the mechanisms of synergy will be presented. Our research has further shown that topical antioxidants (vitamins C, E, and selenium) not only protect, but also reverse this photo and environmental damage. Topical antioxidants can be absorbed by the skin to give a reservoir of protection that is not lost with swimming or perspiration. The challenge is to formulate each specific antioxidant with the correct molecular form so that it is stable and is indeed absorbed and can be metabolized by the skin to give effective activity. The requirements for topical vitamin E (d-alpha-tocopherol), vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid), and selenium (L-selenomethionine) will be discussed in detail and scientific substantiation of efficacy will be presented. Used in conjunction with sunscreen, not only protection from and reversal of photoaging, but also protection from skin cancer can be achieved.
About the Speaker… Karen Burke is a dermatologist and research scientist. After her B.A., M.A., Ph.D. in Biophysics from Cornell, she completed post-doctoral fellowships at Cornell University Medical College and The Rockefeller University and an M.D. with residency in dermatology at New York University Medical Center. She is in private practice and on the Dermatology faculty at Mt. Sinai Medical Center where she studies antioxidants in preventing and reversing sun damage (photoaging and skin cancer). She has written numerous research articles, medical book review chapters,
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and six books (including Thin Thighs for Life and Great Skin for Life) and is on the editorial boards of several medical journals. For many years Dr. Burke was the Medical-Science Editor and author of the monthly column “Health Update” for the U.N. Diplomatic World Bulletin. She has been a consultant to many corporations including L’Oréal, Paris, France. She has been cited often as a prominent physician by New York Magazine and has been included for over 12 years in the Castle-Connolly Guide to Best Doctors. She received a “Women of the Year” award from the New York Police Athletic League (2009) and the Distinguished Women Award from Northwood University (Dallas, TX, 2010). Dr. Burke is an Honorary Life Governor of the New York Academy of Sciences and serves on the Board of Directors of the New York Stem Cell Foundation, the Parkinson’s Disease Foundation, and Poly Prep Country Day School. Dr. Burke has participated in the U.S. FDA Surgery Device Advisory Panel for many years. She is founder and president of the Karen E. Burke Research Foundation and of Longévité, Ltd. _______________________________________________________________________________________
Biological Clock: The Mitochondria? …Karine Cucumel, Ph.D. Ashland Specialty Ingredients, Vincience, Global Skin Research Center, Sophia-Antipolis, France
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he appearance of aging of the skin results from a complex process involving a multitude of factors. Many studies have demonstrated that oxidative stress and mitochondrial dysfunction are two important factors contributing to this aging process. Among theories of aging, free-radical and mitochondrial theories of aging speculate that cumulative damage to mitochondria and mitochondrial DNA (mtDNA) caused by reactive oxygen species (ROS) is one of the major causes of aging appearance of skin. We summarize the interplay between ROS and mitochondria, discuss the controversies, and propose our biofunctional cosmetic solution for appearance of skin aging based on our understanding of mitochondrial defense.
Keywords: antioxidants, mitochondria
About the Speaker… Dr. Karine Cucumel studied Biochemistry at the University of Nice in France where she received her Ph.D. in Pharmacology and Molecular Biology. In 2000 she joined Vincience as a cell biologist and was responsible for directing and leading research in skin biofunctionals. She has been working for the last 14 years in the development and launches of ingredients for cosmetics, mainly in skin and hair care. Today, Dr. Karine Cucumel is the head of product launches for global biofunctional, where she manages the in vitro and in vivo evaluation teams. She is also the manager of scientific communication at Ashland’s Vincience Skin Research Center in Sophia Antipolis. She frequently publishes on innovative research and development in scientific and cosmetic journals. _______________________________________________________________________________________
Antioxidants Within the Global Specialty Active Ingredients Market: Current Situation and Outlook …Nikola Matic Industry Manager for Chemicals and Materials, Kline & Company
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ithin the chemical industry, chemicals for personal care is a dynamic segment and therefore a focus for many chemical groups. Within this dynamic segment, there is an even more dynamic sub-segment: active ingredients. The active ingredients for personal care market is heavily driven by innovation and consumers expectations and is an ever-changing market. New products can rapidly reshape the competitive landscape. During this presentation, key facts and figures from key regional markets of active ingredients in general will be discussed and a specific focus will be done on the market of antioxidant actives and its opportunities. (Continued on page 20)
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About the Speaker…
24/7 Online Ingredient Information:
www.floratech.com
Label The Natural Solution i
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In the New York SCC Region:
Essential Ingredients Michael Manning 201.576.9382 mmanning@essentialingredients.com
Based in Prague, Czech Republic, Nikola Matic is Industry Manager for the Chemicals and Materials practice of Kline & Company. With extensive international market research experience, he has worked across a range of chemical and energy projects, and is presently focused on projects within the Chemicals & Material industry. Currently, Nikola manages flagship industry programs including Personal Care Ingredients, Specialty Actives, Synthetic Latex Polymers, Specialty Biocides, and Specialty Excipients. Prior to joining Kline, Nikola worked in the environmental services consultancy for a leading French company in which he was responsible for the business development in Central and Eastern Europe. Nikola holds an engineering degree in Process Engineering from the Université de Technologie de Compiègne (UTC) and is fluent in French, English, Czech, and Serbian. _______________________________________________________________________________________
Fucus Extract: A New Approach for the Treatment of Under-eye Dark Circles …Manasi Chavan, Ph.D. and Jill Litchauer, M.S. BASF Beauty Creations, 50 Health Sciences Drive, Stony Brook, NY 11790
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ackground: Dark circles around the eyes are a complex issue with two main possible causes: the accumulation of melanin in the skin around the eyes and the accumulation of heme resulting from blood leakage. The free heme produced in this manner is highly cytotoxic, pro-inflammatory, and pro-oxidative. Aims: To evaluate the effect of Fucus extract on heme oxygenase-1 (HO-1), stimulation activity, and to study its in vitro anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidative, and collagen stimulation activity. Methods: The HO-1 stimulation activity was first evaluated at the gene level by reverse transcriptasepolymerase chain reaction targeting the specific HO-1 gene, then followed by western blot in protein level. The in vitro anti-inflammatory effect was measured by quantification of IL-8 levels. The in vitro anti-oxidative activity was also measured. Collagen stimulation activity was quantitatively measured by the amount of deposited collagen I in the extracellular matrix. Results: Fucus extract was identified to have HO-1 stimulation activity at both the gene and protein level. By stimulating this enzyme, it promotes the degradation of toxic heme to its protective catabolites (CO, ferritin, and bilirubin), and appears to reduce the source of dark circles. In addition, Fucus extract showed good anti-inflammatory efficacy. The strong anti-oxidation property of Fucus extract can mask the appearance of eye bags and wrinkles while its collagen boosting activity will potentially cover up fine lines and wrinkles. Conclusion: Fucus extract is a novel product that brings a quadruple approach to the treatment of under-eye dark circles.
About the Speaker… Manasi is responsible for managing strategic collaborations with key customers and identifying new business opportunities. Manasi has a Ph.D. in Biochemistry from Cancer Research Institute in Mumbai. Her Ph.D. thesis focused on identifying biochemical changes in blood proteins as a result of inflammatory damage. She did her post-doctoral work at Stony Brook University where she worked on a variety of biochemistry and molecular
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biology projects. Following her post-doctoral fellowship, she worked as Research Assistant Professor at Stony Brook University. Manasi joined BASF in 2007 and served in various roles since then. She has made notable contributions in understanding various mechanisms of cellular biochemistry and cosmetic science. She has published several articles and patents in the area of Applied Biochemistry. _______________________________________________________________________________________
Antioxidants as Antiagers: Emerging Evidence for the Reduction of Visible Signs of Skin Aging …Roberto Dal Toso, Ph.D. IRB (Instituto di Ricerche Biotecnologiche) SpA Via Lago di Tovel 7 – 36077 Altavilla Vicentina, Italy
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igh levels of reactive oxygen species (ROS) cause damage to skin cells and are involved in several human dermatological pathologies and aging. To deal with excessive ROS levels, the skin has various endogenous defense mechanisms such as antioxidative enzymes and non-enzymatic antioxidative molecules to protect it from free radicals. While it has always been maintained that the upregulation or supplementation of these endogenous antioxidants could prevent skin aging, there is also emerging evidence that certain antioxidants can even reverse existing visible signs of skin aging. Phase II detoxifying enzymes, such as superoxide dismutase, catalase, glutathione peroxidase and heme oxygenase 1 (HMOX1), provide a major mechanism by which cells reduce ROS toxicity and their induction is highly effective for protecting cells against oxidative stress. Unfortunately, these endogenous defense mechanisms decrease due to the natural aging process or to exposure to exogenous oxidative stress inducers resulting in accelerated skin damage. Recent studies have demonstrated highly effective means to significantly upregulate the production of these key defensive enzymes. Furthermore, it has been found that even the topical application of biomimetic enzymatic materials, that simulate detoxifying enzymatic activity, can have a profound effect against not only the formation of free radicals, but can also result in reversal of visible signs of skin aging. This presentation will cover a review of the following: 1. The role of phase II detoxifying enzymes in skin. 2. Methods for optimizing their expression in skin. 3. Clinical evidence of the benefits of increased enzymatic protection.
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Specialty Silicones t Specialty Esters Delivery Systems Skin & Hair Moisture Complexes EXSYMOL S.A.M.: Silanols t Peptides GELYMA: Marine Cell Actives 201-825-8800 t www.biosiltech.com
About the Speaker… Dr. Dal Toso has over two decades of research experience in the pharmaceutical industry. He received his Ph.D. in Biology and completed postdoc training in Pharmacology at the University of Padua in Italy. He further extended his professional expertise in molecular biology through research collaborations with Georgetown University in Washington, D.C. and the Center for Molecular Biology of the University of Heidelberg (ZMBH). He is co-author of more than 50 peer-reviewed scientific papers. Dr. Dal Toso is co-founder and R&D manager of the Instituto di Ricerche Biotecnologiche (IRB). IRB is now a member of Croda International PLC and part of the Sederma group.
A t t e n t i o n
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Unemployed and Emeritus members may continue to attend monthly meetings free of charge. Please contact the registration booth upon arrival. Unemployed members may also continue their membership free of charge by submitting the renewal form with unemployment details. Please remember that the SCC Employment Service is here to assist you. Contact: Jason O’Neill • E-Mail: Jason.Oneil@kemin.com
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Antioxidant Symposium Poster Abstracts 3V Inc.’s Proprietary Rheology Modifiers: Unique Delivery Systems for Personal Care Products J. Albanese, 3V Inc.
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olymers of Acrylic Acid, or PAAs, are especially useful in formulations which contain some water. Perhaps the most widely used example of this type of polymer is the ubiquitous Carbomer. Enhancements of Carbomer were introduced more than a decade ago. Since then, the addition of various hydrophobic side chains to the hydrophilic acrylate backbone provides greater tolerance to electrolytes, emulsification properties, a more conditioned skin-feel, and other improved performance attributes. Two exceptional examples of this type of rheology modifier, available only from 3V, are Stabylen 30 (INCI: Acrylates/Vinyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer) and Synthalen® W2000 (INCI: Acrylates/Palmeth-25 Acrylate Copolymer). They are hydrophobically modified alkali swellable associative thickeners with an affinity for both oil and water and provide finished products with the desirable pseudoplastic-type rheology for easy dispensing from packaging and topical application onto hair and skin. In the personal care market oil-soluble or water-soluble actives and/or dispersions of actives may be present in emulsions, gels, surfactant systems, sprays, non-woven wipes, foams, etc. Actives in OTC products may be APIs, sunscreens, antidandruff or antimicrobial agents, analgesics, or antiperspirants, etc. Other actives may be surfactants, cosmetic oils, conditioning agents, humectants, emollients, providing cleansing and/or beautification. One may formulate either Stabylen 30 (powder) or Synthalen® W2000 (easy-to-use-liquid containing 30% polymer) into a wide range of product forms to cost-effectively deliver many different kinds of active ingredients to the desired substrate. Stabylen 30 (powder) can cost-effectively emulsify high oil loadings regardless of required HLBs. It may be added to either the oil or water phase. It can replace, or significantly reduce, the use of surfactants in oil-in-water emulsions thereby improving mildness and adding increased water-resistance to sunscreen products. Emulsions containing only oils with low melting points can often be prepared at room temperature saving time and reducing energy costs in manufacturing. However, its utility is not limited to emulsions. The polymer is extremely versatile. For example, with Stabylen 30 one may also formulate clear surfactant systems and clear styling gels. Easy-to-use Synthalen W2000 (30% aqueous polymer latex) efficiently thickens sulfate-free cleansing systems, even those with low surfactant concentration, with superior clarity. It also is stable at pH 12 making it suitable for depilatories and relaxers. It is also used in hydrogen peroxide systems with excellent stability of viscosity and peroxide activity. Synthalen W2000 may be formulated to give a very unique rheology, similar to a ringing gel, which may give you a commercial product with an outstanding point-of-difference in the market. _______________________________________________________________________________________
Cytokalmine® Er: A Powerful Antioxidant Active to Fight Inflamm-Ageing
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ubject to repeated inflammatory reactions, reactive and sensitive skin shows an overproduction of Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) leading, in the long term, to premature skin ageing. Cytokalmine® ER is a 100% natural dry extract of Pomegranate pericarp titrated in antioxidant polyphenols: punicalagin and ellagic derivatives. The antioxidant efficacy of Cytokalmine® ER is tested on one hand by measuring in vitro its free radical scavenging effect and, on the other, by quantifying ex vivo its antioxidant activity to reduce ROS production. The efficacy is compared to a standardized Ginkgo biloba extract, also rich in polyphenols (flavonoids), and well known to easily scavenge ROS produced during inflammation. In vitro measurement of the antioxidant capacity Due to the diverse nature of antioxidants and the complexity of oxidation processes, there is no universal method to quantify accurately the antioxidant capacity. Therefore, to evaluate the antioxidant capacity of Cytokalmine® ER, intensive antioxidant testing was made including ORAC, DPPH, TEAC and FRAP methods.
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Trolox, a vitamin E analog compound, was chosen as reference measurement of antioxidant activity. The results were thus expressed in Trolox Equivalent (TE) and showed a high antioxidant capacity. The DPPH test was compared to Ginkgo biloba extract and showed an antioxidant activity of 382 µM TE/100 mg for Cytokalmine® ER vs. only 33 µM TE/100 mg for the reference meaning a greater antioxidant power than the reference. Ex vivo quantification of free-radicals production The test was carried out on neutrophils isolated and incubated with increasing concentrations of Cytokalmine® ER or Ginkgo biloba extract. Non-treated activated neutrophils were used as a control. After incubation, the neutrophils were activated by PMA (phorbol myristate acetate) to stimulate ROS production. Free-radical production was measured by a chemiluminescence technique that enables the detection and quantification of oxidative reactions with a fluorescent reagent (lucigenin). Results showed a dose-dependence effect of Cytokalmine® ER vs. Ginkgo standardized extract on ROS production. Cytokalmine® ER significantly reduces the fluorescence emitted by the product of the oxidation reaction meaning that ROS production is considerably reduced in the presence of Cytokalmine® compared to the reference Ginkgo biloba extract. The effective concentration (IC50) of Cytokalmine® ER to reduce by 50% the production of ROS is 5 g/mL compared to the control 21 g/mL meaning that 2 to 5 times more Ginkgo biloba extract is required to obtain the same efficacy. Under the test conditions, Cytokalmine® ER is more efficient than the standard Ginkgo extract to reduce free radical production. As a conclusion, Cytokalmine® ER is a more powerful antioxidant than the well-known reference Ginkgo biloba 24% standardized extract. This active, also tested for its soothing activity, is a perfect solution to sensitive skin and to fight inflamm-ageing. _______________________________________________________________________________________
Genes Implicated in the Antioxidant Response in Human Skin: Bioinformatics Modelization and Study on Engineered Human Tissue
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sensiva® – multifunctional additives designed for your innovation euxyl® – optimum preservation according to your needs
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Jean-Marie Botto, Catherine Serre, Christelle Plaza, Laurine Bergeron, Florian Labarrade, Christophe Capallere, and Nouha Domloge Ashland Specialty Ingredients, Vincience, Global Skin Research Center Sophia Antipolis, France
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kin produces physiological levels of oxidants resulting from internal metabolism that are counterbalanced by complex antioxidant defense systems. However, as an environmental interface, skin is submitted to a wide spectrum of physical (UV radiation) and chemical insults (xenobiotic exposure, environmental pollution), that are potentially capable of increasing the content and production of reactive oxidants, possibly leading to structural and functional alterations. With the goal of studying the regulation of human skin response to reactive oxidant-induced stress, we established a bioinformatics model taking into account several pathways and biological processes: xenosensory pathways, antioxidant enzymes and molecules, mitochondrial pathways, sirtuins, antioxidant response elements, and target genes. In order to validate this model, we induced oxidative stresses on skin-derived cultured human cells and 3-D reconstructed human epidermis, and studied the resulting expression level of specific genes and microRNAs by RT-qPCR.
Keywords: skin, reactive oxidants, antioxidant response, bioinformatics, reconstructed epidermis, microRNA, mitochondria. _______________________________________________________________________________________
Protection and Repair of Skin Damage from Environmental Aggressors Siming Chen, Raaj Khusial, Jolanta Idkowiak-Baldys, Teena Jacob, Michelle Slade, and Uma Santhanam Global R&D, Avon Products, Inc., Suffern, New York 10901 here is an increasing awareness that damage caused by environmental factors, such as UV radiation, cigarette smoke, smog, pollution, and extreme temperatures can impact skin and lead to skin aging. The molecular mechanisms underlying this aging effect remain uncertain. We
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examined oxidative damage from various environmental factors at DNA, protein, and lipid levels. Our studies showed that each of the aggressors, including extreme temperatures and environmental pollution, can produce free radicals and cause oxidative damage to lipids in skin cells and in a 3-D skin equivalent model as measured by the TBARS assay. Further, UVR causes broad damage to critical cellular components, such as DNA and proteins, thereby affecting essential cellular functions. In order to protect skin from oxidative damage and/or provide a greater repair potential, we initiated a screening program to identify ingredients that can act against environmental aggressors in skin, and potentially have a positive impact on the visual appearance of aging skin. In the present study, we identified several novel ingredients that can prevent and/or repair damage caused by environmental aggressors in skin cells and in 3-D skin equivalent in vitro. Treatment with combinations of these novel cosmetic actives can counteract and/or repair skin cell damage induced by environmental aggressors. _______________________________________________________________________________________
Review of Antioxidants for Broad Spectrum Free Radical Protection Tao Zheng, Ph.D., Energizer Personal Care
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atural sunlight has different amounts of radiation in broad spectrum wavelength, from ultraviolet (UV), visible (VIS), to infrared (IR) light. Sun care products with SPF and Broad Spectrum claims only protect 6% of total solar radiation. Free radical formation is occurring in both epidermis and dermis level by deeper penetrating UVA, VIS, and near-IR light. It is reported nearly 50% of the total skin oxidative burden is generated by VIS light. UV filters are not sufficient to protect skin from light-induced free radical damage. Some UV filters even trigger more reactive oxygen species (ROS) in some studies. Antioxidants are molecules that inhibit the oxidation of other molecules. Antioxidants terminate free radicals by donating electrons. Antioxidants not only scavenge free radicals to protect DNA damage on skin, but also suppress inflammation to correct the damage. Therefore, a three layer defense mechanism can be implemented by combining sunscreen and antioxidant in sun care products: UVA/UVB protection, broad spectrum light-induced free radical quenching, and skin damage repair. Several antioxidants on the market are reviewed for free radical mitigation, visible and IR light protection, SPF enhancement, and synergies with sunscreen composition. A number of sun care products with antioxidants are also reviewed with claims. Antioxidants in combination with sunscreen filters show better photo-protection and broad spectrum free radical protection. _______________________________________________________________________________________
Increased Endogenous Oxidized DNA Levels Correlate to Higher Levels of Iron in Melanocytes E. Pelle1,2, X. Huang2, Q. Zhang3, N. Pernodet1, D.B. Yarosh1, and K. Frenkel2 1 Estée Lauder Research Laboratories, Melville, NY 2 Environmental Medicine, New York University School of Medicine, New York, NY 3 ImClone Systems/Eli Lilly, Branchburg, NJ elanocytes are specialized neural crest-derived cells that produce melanin providing coloration and protection to the skin. Although UV exposure to human skin can induce oxidative stress in melanocytes, oxidative mechanisms also operate at basal levels in processes unique to melanocytes, such as melanogenesis. Here, we investigated their endogenous oxidative state as compared to normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) in order to gain new insight into melanocytic biology. Previously, we showed that NHEK contain higher levels of hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) than melanocytes and that it can migrate from NHEK to melanocytes by passive permeation. Nevertheless, despite lower concentrations of H2O2, we now report higher levels of oxidative DNA in melanocytes as indicated by increased levels of 8-oxo-2’-deoxyguanosine (8-oxo-dG): 4.49 (± 0.55 SEM) 8-oxo-dG/106 dG compared to 1.49 (± 0.11 SEM) 8-oxo-dG/106 dG for NHEK. Glutathione (GSH), another biomarker for antioxidant status, was also lower in melanocytes (3.14 nmoles (± 0.15 SEM)/cell) in comparison to NHEK (5.98 nmoles (± 0.33 SEM)/cell). Cellular bioavailable iron was also measured as a function of ferritin
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concentration and found to be nearly four-fold higher in melanocytes than in NHEK. Further, ferritin levels in melanocytes were also higher than in hepatocarcinoma cells, an iron-rich cell, and indicate that higher relative iron levels may be characteristic of melanocytes. In order to account for the increased oxidative DNA and lower GSH and H2O2 levels that we observe, we propose that iron may contribute to higher levels of oxidation by reacting with H2O2 through a Fenton reaction leading to the generation of DNA-reactive hydroxyl radicals. In conclusion, our data support the concept of elevated oxidation as a normal parameter of melanocyte activity. _______________________________________________________________________________________
Antioxidant, Anti-elastase, and Vascular Endothelial Growth Factor Stimulatory Effect of Humulus Lupulus Extract on Dermal Fibroblasts Neena Philips, Ph.D., Professor of Biology Fairleigh Dickinson University, Teaneck, NJ 07666 E-mail: nphilips@fdu.edu
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he alterations in skin with aging include accumulation of reactive oxygen species, oxidative damage, breakdown of elastin and collagen fibers, and reduced expression of vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF). The counteraction of these alterations by Humulus lupulus (HOP) extract, known for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, was investigated in this research. The HOP extract had direct antioxidant activity, and inhibited intracellular lipid peroxidation in dermal fibroblasts. Furthermore, the HOP extract exhibited direct anti-elastase activity and stimulated the expression of VEGF in dermal fibroblasts. These data suggest that HOP extract, or one of its components, is beneficial to skin health through its antioxidant, anti-elastase, and VEGF stimulatory effect on dermal fibroblasts. Acknowledgement: Collaborators include Halyna Siomyk, Michael Ret, Humaira Quraishi, Mary Dela Cruz, Hardika Patel, Harald Schwarz, and Gerhard Haas, Ph.D. _______________________________________________________________________________________
SunBoost ATB – SPF Booster with Antioxidant Benefits
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t has become widely accepted by consumers that antioxidants can protect against free-radicals and cellular damage. The demand for antioxidant-fortified products is projected to increase by 8.5%-10.0% annually. The goal of this study is to create an antioxidant ‘cocktail’ that can substantially boost UV protection efficacy of sunscreen formulations. In the first part of the study, a variety of antioxidants were selected and their stability in presence of micro-TiO2 was tested. Most antioxidants discolored either immediately or after a period of incubation. Stable antioxidants were selected for the continued study. In the second part of the study, combinations of antioxidants, anti-irritant, and anti-inflammatory agents were designed to maximize their UV protection boosting power. A mixture (SunBoost ATB) of Argan oil, tocopheryl acetate, bisabolol at a proprietary ratio was tested in sunscreen lotions containing the organic, inorganic or organic/inorganic actives, respectively. In vivo testing showed that SPF was boosted 30% or more for all formulations tested. Moreover, the same level of boosting effect was observed for in vivo UVA protection (PFA). For ease of use, SunBoost ATB was incorporated into a highly transparent TiO2 dispersion. Such a TiO2 dispersion was found to provide up to 4.5 SPF units for each percent of TiO2 in sunscreen formulation while delivering all the benefits of the antioxidants. Contact: Yun Shao • Tel: 908-941-3506 • E-mail: yshao@koboproductsinc.com _______________________________________________________________________________________
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Complementary Effect of Antioxidants Against Infrared-A Induced MMP-1 Up-Regulation in Human Skin Alessandra Marini1, Thomas Jaenicke1, Yevgeniy Krol3, Christian Oresajo2, Susanne Grether-Beck1, and Jean Krutmann1 1 IUF – Leibniz Research Institute for Environmental Medicine, Düsseldorf, Germany 2 L’Oréal Research and Innovation, Clark, NJ, USA 3 SkinCeuticals, Inc., New York, NY, USA
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bjective: Studies have established that human skin is a target for infrared A radiation (IRA) and our previous study showed that combination of ascorbic acid, tocopherol, and ferulic acid antioxidants can significantly decrease IRA-induced upregulation of MMP-1 in primary human dermal fibroblasts. The purpose of this study was to determine if two proprietary compositions, one of which is supplemented with vitamin C, vitamin E, and ferulic acid can prevent IRA-induced damage in human skin. Methods: Buttock skin of 25 healthy human volunteers was exposed to a single dose of IRA radiation (360 J/cm2). For sham treatment, another area of buttock skin was treated completely identical, except that no IRA was applied. Two further areas of the buttock of the volunteers were treated with test-compounds 740019 or 740019 28 (SkinCeuticals, Inc.) once daily for a period of 10 days with 2 mg/cm2 prior to IRA treatment. Twenty-four hours after irradiation, 4-mm punch biopsies were taken from all four skin sites and RT-PCR analysis was carried out for MMP-1. Three subjects were removed from analysis due to non-response and the remaining results were normalized for individual IRA response. Results: Results from 22 responders out of the 25 subjects tested demonstrate that IRA radiation resulted in a 3.97-fold increase of MMP-1 mRNA expression in untreated skin sites. Both test compounds significantly protected from IRA-induced MMP-1 up-regulation. However, the composition supplemented with antioxidants inhibited IRA-induced MMP-1 expression by 59.7 % while 740019 28 prevented IRA-induced upregulation of MMP-1 mRNA by 36.9 %. Conclusion: Both compositions, 740019 and 740019 28, are well suited to protect from IRA-induced MMP-1 up-regulation in human skin.These results indicate that use of antioxidants in topical compositions can enhance the protection of human skin against IRA-induced skin aging. _______________________________________________________________________________________
Clinical Efficacy and Tolerance of a Novel Antioxidant Night Treatment Containing Resveratrol, Baicalin and Vitamin E on Women with Mild to Moderate Photo-Damaged Facial Skin Margarita Yatskayer1, Amanda Dahl1, Susana Raab1, Nannan Chen1, Yevgeniy Krol2, and Christian Oresajo1 1 L’Oréal Research and Innovation, Clark, NJ, USA 2 SkinCeuticals, Inc., New York, NY, USA
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urpose of Study: Topical products containing antioxidants have been demonstrated to be effective in protecting the skin against the damaging effects of free radicals and oxidative stress produced by normal cellular metabolism or photo-damage. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effectiveness and tolerance of an antioxidant composition containing resveratrol, baicalin, and vitamin E tested in subjects with clinically determined mild to moderate photo-damaged facial skin. Method: Fifty (50) female subjects between the ages of 40 and 60 were enrolled in a twelve-week single center, controlled clinical study. Female volunteers applied the topical product to their face, neck, and chest areas at night for the duration of the study. Evaluations were performed at baseline, four weeks, eight weeks, and twelve weeks after test article use. Assessments included subjective and objective tolerance evaluations using a four point scale, expert clinical grading of facial skin attributes including fine lines and wrinkles in the periorbital area, firmness/elasticity, skin laxity, density, skin radiance, skin tone evenness, skin roughness, hyper-pigmentation, and the overall skin appearance using a ten point scale. Subject self-assessment questionnaires, non-invasive bio-instrumentation to assess skin density, and digital photography were also
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included in the study. Ten (10) subjects were selected randomly to have 2 mm punch biopsies collected from the facial area (baseline and week 12) and buttocks area (baseline only). PCR analysis was carried out on the biopsies for COL1A1, GSS, HO-1, PRKAA1, and SOD1. Results: Statistically significant improvements were observed in all facial skin attributes at all time points when compared to baseline. Bio-instrumentation measurements showed a statistically significant improvement in skin density. Analysis of biopsy samples showed improvements in expression of COL1A1 and HO-1. Global tolerance evaluations showed the antioxidant night treatment to be well tolerated by the study panel. _______________________________________________________________________________________
ROS and RNS Scavenging Ingredient, Not Only for the Skin but Formulations Marta Rull, Cristina Davi, Elena Cañadas, Nuria Almiñana, Raquel Delgado, and Domenico Palella Lipotec, S.A.U. (The Lubrizol Corporation), 08850 Gavà, Barcelona, Spain Keywords: antioxidant, free radicals, aging, environment protection bjective: Present an overview of dimethylmethoxy chromanol efficacy, as it is a cosmetic active ingredient specifically designed to protect the skin from oxidative stress induced by environmental aggressors (like nitrogen species found in pollution) and inner factors that result in premature aging, with its associated negative effects at a macroscopic level. Methodology: Evaluation of the blockage of nitrotyrosine by inhibiting the reaction between tyrosine and peroxynitrite, study of the protection from environmental aggressors (comet assay), oxidative stress inhibition on human dermal fibroblasts using Calcein-AM assay, Antioxidative Power (AP) compared to other antioxidants using Electron Spin Ressonance spectroscopy, avoidance of peroxide formation in essential oils by measuring lipid peroxidation subproducts, and long-term stability in final formulations. Summary of results: Dimethylmethoxy chromanol proved to be effective in scavenging Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) and Reactive Nitrogen Species (RNS), therefore preventing skin cell damage. It was able to reduce the nitration of tyrosine in a dose dependent-manner as a RNS scavenger. UV-induced DNA damage clearly diminished in a dose dependent-manner as well when the molecule was applied (comet assay) due to its ROS scavenging activity. Besides, the pre-treatment with this ingredient protected fibroblasts from oxidative stress, raising cell viability near 80% while resveratrol just increased it by 40% (at the same concentration) and vitamin E and ferulic acid induced lower effects. Additionally, the AP of this molecule demonstrated to be markedly higher than other well known antioxidants. This active ingredient also proved to inhibit peroxide formation in rosemary leaf oil and oleic acid almost completely, as the peroxide indexes were maintained during the 2-weeks assays. It is interesting to mention that this active also conferred short-term and long-term antioxidant activity to the cosmetic formulations where it was incorporated (higher than BHT). Conclusion: Dimethylmethoxy chromanol presents a demonstrated capacity to scavenge both ROS and RNS, reducing their induced oxidative damage at the cellular level. It highlights as an ingredient to protect from detrimental environmental agents like UV rays and pollutants (including reactive nitrogen oxides), and inner factors. Thus, this molecule proved to be an excellent antioxidant agent to defend from oxidative stress and the constant aggressions that lead to premature aging and unhealthy skin aspect. Additionally, its antioxidant power remains in final formulations. _______________________________________________________________________________________
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Antioxidants and Skin: An In Vitro Genomic Perspective of Skin Cell Effects James V. Gruber, Ph.D. Lonza Consumer Care, 70 Tyler Place, South Plainfield, NJ 07080
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he free radical theory of aging is an interesting and somewhat still not fully agreed upon mechanism by which the human body accumulates damage and ages. None-the-less, in the cosmetic and nutritional supplement arenas, the sale of ingredients suggested to offer antioxidant benefits, which then allow for suggested improvements in aging, is abundant. To date, there have been few published studies (Continued on page 28)
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that examine antioxidant effects on human skin cells to see how these interesting molecules might impact the skin directly. The fundamental question we would like to investigate is: What do these active ingredients actually do to skin cells in vitro when they are applied to the cells and allowed to interact with them at the biological level? Over the course of several years, we accumulated data from human microarrays in which we examined various “antioxidant” molecules on Normal Human Epidermal Keratinocytes (NHEK) and Normal Human Dermal Fibroblasts. The extent of this work was gathered together and published [J.V. Gruber and R. Holtz, “Examining the genomic influence of skin antioxidants in vitro,” Mediators of Inflammation, Article ID 230450, 2010]. In this poster, we will review the findings of this work in which we set parameters for genomic upregulation and examine how a group of nine antioxidants—some well known, others less well known—commonly influence both NHEK and NHDF. By culling our data in this fashion, certain genomic markers began to emerge that appear to be commonly upregulated by the majority of the antioxidants. The findings may allow for more focused efforts to concentrate research on these areas where these antioxidants appear to commonly function when applied to skin cells. _______________________________________________________________________________________
World’s Highest Source of Natural Vitamin C to Fight Oxidative Stress Tour de la Cité, 2600, Boul. Laurier, # 900, Québec (QC) G1V 4W2, Canada. ntroduction: Free radicals are an inevitable factor of the tissue aging process. Daily aggressions (sun exposure, pollution, cigarette smoke, stress, etc.) are able to generate a huge amount of free radicals and normal cell antioxidant defenses become overwhelmed, inducing an oxidative stress that leaves skin vulnerable to damage and accelerate the appearance of signs of aging, wrinkles, inflammation, and pigmentation disorders. Over age, the production of antioxidants in cells decreases and an additional supplementation is needed to rebalance the cell antioxidant defenses. Kakadu plum is a native Australian plant that grows in a harmful UV environment in the Northern regions of the country. This unique superfruit has developed a self-defense system so high that it is known as the world’s richest source of vitamin C. Methods: In this study, we first evaluated the in vitro antioxidant activity of a Kakadu plum extract compared to the equivalent in pure vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) using the DPPH method. Other in vitro assays were performed on fibroblasts (NHDF) to assess the Kakadu plum extract action on some of the major skin constituents like pro-collagen I and hyaluronic acid. Two clinical studies were performed on 20 volunteers with a twice daily application of a cream containing 2% Kakadu plum extract for 20 days. In the first clinical study, crow’s feet wrinkles were analyzed by DermaTOP blue (in vivo 3-D scanner). In the second study, skin luminosity and radiance were analyzed by a spectrophotometer/colorimeter, measuring the gloss value (ability of skin to reflect the light). Results: Kakadu plum extract provides strong antioxidant activity, higher than pure native vitamin C, that’s protects matrix components from free radical-induced degradation. Moreover, the extract stimulates the synthesis of hyaluronic acid and pro-collagen I, preserving skin consistency and plump aspect. In vivo we demonstrated outstanding wrinkle reduction after only 2 weeks for 100% of the volunteers as well as an improvement of skin luminosity and radiance with volunteers applying a cream containing 2% Kakadu plum extract. Conclusion: Kakadu plum superfruit contains a highly efficient protective antioxidant system due to its adaptation to its UV environment. Once extracted, we demonstrated that these defense tools are applicable to skin for an anti-aging application. By supplementing skin with a topical dose of natural antioxidants, cells boost their defenses against oxidative stress and free-radical induced skin damages. _______________________________________________________________________________________
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Iron and Aging: A Novel Approach Against Skin Aging Xi Huang, Ph.D., Marivan Skincare Inc. 15 Heather Ridge Lane, Montvale, NJ 07645 ron is one of the most abundant transition metals in the human body. While iron is essential for normal physiological functions, excess iron could have harmful effects by producing reactive oxygen species through autoxidation, Fenton, and HaberWeiss reactions. The human body has developed sophisticated systems of iron absorption but no effective ways of iron excretion. Menstruation and skin desquamation are important routes to get rid of iron. Yet, skin as an important target of iron and iron-mediated skin aging has not drawn considerable attention, particularly in older women when menstruation ceases. In the present study, we have tested a hypothesis that removal of iron from the skin reduces oxidative stress and prevents skin aging. It is known that essential iron is bound in various proteins such as hemoglobin and extra iron is stored in ferritin. It has been shown that iron from ferritin enhances oxidant formation, sensitizes skin to sun exposure, and upregulates UVA-mediated matrix metalloproteinase-1 activity. Because iron is nonessential in ferritin and ferritin has a capacity of binding up to 4,500 atoms of iron, targeting ferritin could be an effective way to prevent iron-mediated skin aging. Here we report a de-ironizing inducer (D.I.I.) technology which is based on: 1) ferritin has a strong binding affinity for ferric ion (Fe3+), but not for ferrous ion (Fe2+). “Free” released Fe2+ is unstable in aqueous solution at pH>4.5. Application of D.I.I. reduces Fe3+ to Fe2+ and precipitates it immediately after its release from ferritin, making iron unavailable for skin damage. A clinical trial has shown significantly improved skin appearance. Taken together, our results indicate that de-ironizing presents a novel approach against skin aging. _______________________________________________________________________________________
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Functionally-Enhanced Proteins with Naturally-Concentrated Phytoactives – Outstanding Stability and Improved Efficacy Diana M. Cheng1, Diana E. Roopchand1, Ilya Raskin1 and Nava Dayan2 1 Nutrasorb L.L.C. and Rutgers University 2 Dr. Nava Dayan L.L.C. broad range of functionally-enhanced, high-quality naturally concentrated photoactive compounds from fruits and vegetables are uniquely stabilized by a technology developed by Nutrasorb L.L.C. This stabilization allows for enhanced bioavailability. Nutrasorb’s phyto-powered ingredients have broad applications in cosmetic, dietary supplement, and food products. The technology uses natural, low cost non-residual solvents for extraction of beneficial phytoactives from food ingredients. Increased shelflife of phytoactives and less regulatory hurdles makes it commercially appealing for a wide array of nutritional and cosmetic applications. This diverse product line provides virtually limitless opportunities for customization and tailoring to specific applications including matrix composition and physical appearance. Furthermore, these compounds are dispersible and may be formulated into a wide array of powder, liquid, gel, emulsion, or wax-based skin care products for stable delivery and extended release of antioxidant phytoactives. Applications may include color cosmetics, treatment products, masks, and exfoliates/scrubs. Additional advantages may include reduced need or elimination of formulation preservatives and increased shelf-life due to enhanced stability of antioxidant polyphenols and amplified anti-microbial properties. Additionally, polyphenols may be a way to naturally balance human immune and bacterial homeostasis of the skin to promote skin health. With both nutritional and cosmetic applications, Nutrasorb technology and products promote beauty from within and with-out. Our collaboration Dr. Nava Dayan L.L.C. and Nutrasorb L.L.C. partnered in a collaboration initiative to introduce plant extracts to the skin care market. Through its unique research and exploration approach Nutrasorb has been successful in developing unique extraction and separation methods to mine for the essential active components in plants. Combined with Dr. Dayan’s knowledge and expertise in skin biochemistry and delivery, this initiative paves the path for true innovation to plant derived skin care. We welcome further inquiries and insights.
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Powerful Weapons Against the Aging Process Due to Free Radical Attack
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he recent “blooming” of antioxidant products in the anti-aging market pushes suppliers to offer better active ingredients to fight against the sources of free radicals species. Oxygen is essential for life but is also a “destructive” agent for living tissues when it is in an “activated” form: reactive oxygen species like superoxide radical, hydroxyl radical, nitric oxide, and hydrogen peroxide. These reactive oxygen species are produced naturally during physiological processes and strictly controlled by an antioxidant system. Breakdown of this balance (production/defense) exposes our organism to a real oxidative stress which is very harmful, particularly for the skin. The best way to protect the skin is to combat the production of free radicals to stop skin from fading or appearing “rusty.” Seppic offers a full range of powerful radical scavengers that protect against primary and secondary free radicals. From different origins and mode of actions, our wide offering contains the very innovative stable SOD from vegetable origin: EXTRAMEL™C. Our encapsulated natural antioxidant cocktail is selected from a rare melon variety, 100% plant active ingredient. As we know SOD is one of the best antioxidants, but in its free form is not stable. To be sure that we have a fully effective product, we encapsulated the SOD from melon into maltodextrin. The SOD will be stable inside formulation, and when applying the cream containing EXTRAMEL™C, the capsules will break under the pressure of the hand to liberate the active ingredient. We offer polyphenols of red wine, SEPIVINOL™ that protects from primary and secondary free radicals. MANOLIVA™, coming from olive polyphenol and manganese gluconate, effectively protects cells altered by polluting agents and limits the generation of intracellular stress induced by polluting agents. This action is substantially more effective then vitamin C. At low concentration, it is one of the first actives having a protective effect against all types of radicals oxygen species. KALPARIANE™ our extract of brown algae provides global protection against free radical attack proven by an ORAC test. Seppic Inc., 30 Two Bridges Road, Suite 210, Fairfield, NJ 07004 Phone: (973) 882-5597 • Fax: (973) 882-5178 • www.seppic.com _______________________________________________________________________________________
Fighting Against Oxidative Stress: The 5th Pilar to Reduce Acne Troubles Florent Yvergnaux1, Caroline Malhaire1, Celine Berger1, Thibaut Saguet1, and Jean-François Molina2 1 Bioeurope Research (Solabia Group), Route d’Oulins, 28260 Anet, France 2 Solabia Group, 29 rue Delizy, 93698 Pantin, France Keywords: oxidative stress, oily skin prone to acne, sebum oxidation, tannins, “super-leaves”
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cne is a chronic inflammatory disorder of the pilo-sebaceous follicles and the well known bacteria Propionibacterium acnes plays a major role in its development. Among the different ways of action to cope with acne, fighting against oxidative stress and more specifically reducing the sebum oxidation is a new promising route, complementary of the 4 first pilars: Stimulation of follicular keratolysis, inhibition of 5-reductase, decrease of bacterial proliferation, and resulting skin inflammation. By triggering squalene degradation and changing its molecular conformation, sebum oxidation causes the formation of the blackheads. Moreover, it depletes sebum in oxygen favoring the growth of Propionibacterium acnes with the consequences thereof. Last, P. acnes releases coproporphyrin, a specific protein that emits free radicals when exposed to UV. Often used as the antioxidant of reference, super-fruit ingredients are widely used to fight against oxidative stress. Nevertheless, they don’t have the legitimacy of protection as leaves of the same plants present large amounts of condensed (e.g., proanthocyanidic oligomers) and hydrolyzable tannins (e.g., ellagic acid).
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The extraction of tannins from raspberry and blackcurrant bush leaves displayed a triple action for preventing and treating oily skin prone to acne, preservation of the sebum quality and composition, protection of squalene, and modulation of inflammatory reactions. _______________________________________________________________________________________
Development of a Biotechnological Quercetin Dimer to Cope with Oxidative Stress and Related Aging Florent Yvergnaux1, Caroline Malhaire1, Celine Berger1, Thibaut Saguet1, and Jean-François Molina2 1 Bioeurope Research (Solabia Group), Route d’Oulins, 28260 Anet, France 2 Solabia Group, 29 rue Delizy, 93698 Pantin, France Keywords: oxidative stress, laccase technology, enzymatic biocatalysis, polyphenol oligomers, skin burnout
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ike the inflammation process, oxidative stress is at the very heart of cutaneous disequilibria and responsible for skin aging or so called Oxid’Aging.
Among natural molecules acting against the oxidative stress, polyphenols form a large family of well-known compounds found in plants to protect them from UV light. They are considered mainly as scavengers of free radicals because of their neutralizing polyphenolic chemical structure. They also have capacity to modulate the organism’s mechanism of defense and repair, in particular through their interaction with skin enzymes. Considering that oligomers are more reactive towards enzymes than monomers, we developed a double fermentative and enzymatic biocatalysis process based on the production of a fungi laccase from Botrytis cinerea whose specificity is to oligomerize non-glycosylated polyphenols. This technology has been applied to two different polyphenols, resveratrol and quercetin, to develop two active ingredients acting, respectively, on wrinkle reduction and so-called skin burnout (stimulation of the natural antioxidant physiological process).
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I Love Nonsense
…Donald Koelmel nspiration can strike at the most unlikely times. I recently had an illuminating moment at a talk given by author/illustrator Richard Egielski. My wife, an award-winning artist herself and an aspiring children’s book author, and I were intently listening to Mr. Egielski describe his work and creative process, when someone asked him the source of his inspirations. “I love nonsense,” was his profound reply. Everyone laughed, but he was serious. Those beautiful words struck a deep philosophical chord in my mind, almost as if Plato or Socrates had just revealed the very secrets of the universe. Think about it. What’s NOT to love about nonsense? Let’s consider some of the more awesome aspects of this creative force. Nonsense has no boundaries. It’s unstoppable and everywhere, just like dust in a seemingly closed cabinet. Need proof? Turn on your TV. Pick a channel, any channel, 24/7. That computer glued to your hand has millions of gateways to destination nonsense. From the Halls of Congress to your boss’s office, nonsense is ubiquitous. Nonsense is a powerful, mind-bending stimulant capable of roller-coasting you through the whole emotional spectrum; laughter to tears with stops at anger and joy. Even LSD was legal for a period, until the government awoke and outlawed it. And you’re worried about legalized marijuana? Maybe your elected officials should focus on enacting a few harsh nonsense laws. Serious minded business leaders, bankers, and money managers should all embrace nonsense. It’s unregulated. Think of all the new Madoff-like, fee generating investment products that could finally earn you that 8-figure bonus! Forget municipal bonds. Nonsense is tax-free and carries neither interest rate nor credit risk. My kind of investment. And money doesn’t make the world go round. It’s the nonsense, stupid!
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Employment Opportunities Send employment ads to…Jason O’Neill (Jason.Oneill@kemin.com). Employment listings published in the Cosmetiscope are abridged due to space limitations. Posting Date: (5/7/14) n ADVANCED PRODUCT STEWARD Momentive, a global leader in specialty chemicals and materials, has an immediate opening for an Advanced Product Steward in Tarrytown, NY. Key responsibilities: • Provide Regulatory support for Fluids in the form of Risk Reviews, training, meeting participation, answering customer questionnaires. • Performs multi-faceted regulatory and compliance activities for global business market(s) as a team member for applicable market New Product Introduction Teams. • Supports new substance notification and related activities by working closely with other Global Product Stewards and Leaders. • Actively leads, participates, and supports Product and Application Risk Reviews (as applicable) and Product Stewardship Standard to comply with Responsible Care requirements. • Monitors current legislative changes and initiation of necessary actions and communications about changing chemical regulations in various world regions. • Interacts with and responds to global customers, suppliers, and other applicable functions in supporting product regulatory and compliance solutions, needs, and responses. • Provides compliance advice and guidance to business to ensure that effective compliance policies and procedures are developed and maintained as well as recommends strategic approaches to new product development and registrations. • Establishes, manages, and/or reports metrics for work and/or tie into global reporting. • This position can be located at various MPM U.S. locations. Minimum qualifications: • At least 5-10 years of experience in the area chemical product safety/risk management. • Must have basic chemistry skills related to product chemistry. • Knowledge and experience in the Personal Care Industry desired. • Travel 10-20%, including international trips as needed. Position may require availability for early morning conference calls to Europe or evening calls to the Pacific. • Ability to work, lead, and manage in a global organization with a matrix reporting structure. • Ability to create and enrich the position to fit the needs of the team and company as well as the willingness to constantly improve knowledge and abilities in an interdisciplinary field. • Flexibility to focus on chemistry related topics as well as customer support and fulfilling legal requirements at the same time. • Facilitate multiple function involvement and participation in problem solving and solution development. • Excellent interpersonal and communication skills (multifunctional, global, all levels of the organization) and highly customer focused. • The candidate should have a degree in a scientific field: Chemistry, Biology, Toxicology, Engineering, or related field. • Candidates are required to have unrestricted authorization to work
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in the United States. All interested candidates, must apply online at: http://www.momentive.com/careers. __________________________________________________________ Posting Date: (5/7/14) n TECHNICAL SPECIALIST – R&D SCIENTIST Summit Reheis, the global leader in antiperspirant actives and technology, is seeking dynamic and talented candidates for its technical organization. The ideal candidate should be articulate, creative, driven, and equally comfortable working in the laboratory or travelling and interfacing with customers. This position is designed to offer significant opportunity for organizational advancement for a motivated and diligent individual. This position will be based at our headquarters location in Huguenot, NY. Responsibilities: • Projects and experimentation within relevant chemistry from concept ideation to commercialization for antiperspirant actives and products. • External and internal research combined with creative thinking to develop new products, novel approaches, and customer relevant innovation. • Customer meetings to educate, support, and translate application challenges into opportunities. • Design and interpretation of experimentation to develop correlations between desired product properties and process parameters. • Develop technical product strategies to support product development and short-term and long-term innovation. • Assists the Quality Manager in the conduct of the laboratory. • Prepares and delivers presentations and reports. Qualifications: • B.S./B.A. (or higher) degree in a related science (Chemistry or Chemical Engineering preferred) and 3-7 years industry experience in technical positions, preferably within the cosmetics industry. • Demonstrated ability to create and execute novel scientific investigations. • Demonstrated laboratory skills including experience using analytical equipment. • Knowledge and experience with cGMP, GLP, and REACH compliance preferred. • Experience working with customers and project management preferred. • Ability to work independently and as a team member for both local and global projects. This position requires interfacing with Customers, Marketing & Sales, Operations, and Senior Leadership. • Good communication skills, both written and verbal. • Dedication, high motivation, and excellent learning abilities. • Candidate should be a self-starter with innovative potential to bring product from conception through commercialization. Interested applicants should submit resume, cover letter, and salary expectations to: jobs@summitresearchlabs.com.
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Posting Date: (5/1/14) n NORTH EAST ACCOUNT MANAGER – PERSONAL CARE The HallStar Company, a global leader in specialty ester and related performance products for the Personal Care industry, has an opening for an Account Manager to service the Northeastern U.S. Key responsibilities: • Reporting to the Director – Personal Care Sales & Strategic Accounts, this position will manage a portfolio of customers that include major consumer products companies, as well as specialty personal care companies in the Northeastern United States. • As a key contact with customers, develop broad and deep relationships within the R&D organizations and gain specifications and inclusion of HallStar specialty products into product development projects. • Work with customer purchasing, manufacturing, and other groups to maximize existing business, complete the sales process, and strengthen overall business relationships. • Develop and execute strategic account plans for target accounts. • Keep abreast of customer needs, industry trends, technology advancements, and market changes; and provide ongoing communication to R&D and company leadership to support product development and market development projects and ideas. • Work internally with customer service, manufacturing, and other important internal functions to meet customer and HallStar service needs. Requirements: • The ideal candidate will have at least 3-5 years of experience in the personal care industry with a track record of progression from laboratory and product development work to technical sales and account management. • Candidates must understand the complex decision making process within major consumer products companies, and be able to use that knowledge to play a key role in early stage ingredient specification for product formulations, manage pricing negotiations, and provide ongoing technical support. • A Bachelor’s degree in Chemistry or a related discipline is required. For consideration please forward your resume to: Susan Nutter, Human Resources Manager at snutter@hallstar.com. __________________________________________________________ Posting Date: (4/21/14) n TECHNICAL SERVICE CHEMIST – SEPPIC INC, NEWARK, DE SEPPIC INC., a leading Global Specialty Ingredients supplier for the Cosmetic, Health, and Wellness market, has an immediate opportunity for a Technical Service Chemist in the Personal Care Group at its Newark Delaware laboratory facility. Key responsibilities: • Formulating a wide range of cosmetic products focusing on skincare, hair care, and body wash. • Address Seppic Inc. customers’ technical questions. • Workshop/training for customers, sales team, and distributor. • Customer visits with sales team. • Participation in industry events and trade shows. Skills: • Collaboration.
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• Creativity. • Project management. • Openness. • Anticipation and planning skills. • Action oriented, strong drive to deliver results. Requirements: • B.S. or M.S. degree in Chemistry, Biology, or related field. • Over 5 years of experience in Personal Care formulations, either at a brand owner, or at a contract manufacturer, or at an ingredient supplier. • Willingness to travel ~25% of the time. Please forward your resume and a motivation letter to: paul.ching@airliquide.com. __________________________________________________________ Posting Date: (4/21/14) n MARKETING MANAGER – KEMIN PERSONAL CARE Kemin, a profitable and progressive, privately-held international company headquartered in Des Moines, Iowa (USA) with a vision to “improve the quality of life by touching half the people of the world every day with our products and services” is seeking a Marketing Manager for our Personal Care division. The Manager will oversee marketing projects, events, communications, and trade shows, and provide sales support. This position requires someone well versed in a wide variety of personal and household care applications. Seeking a candidate with an MBA and 3 years of industry experience. Apply on line at: http://www.kemin.com/careers. __________________________________________________________ Posting Date: (4/15/14) n BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT REPRESENTATIVE BioScreen Testing Services, Inc. is a national leader in contract testing for the personal care and pharmaceutical industries. We are seeking an East Coast Business Development Representative who has a scientific background in Microbiology, Analytical Chemistry, or Human Clinical Testing. The Business Development representative (BDR) is responsible for developing and maintaining sales and business relationships with a focus on prospective clients while maintaining relationships with existing and prior clients to establish new and repeat scientific services. The BDR researches, identifies, and qualifies potential new clients. The BDR also calls on prospective new clients to introduce capabilities and technical experience in an effort to create new business relationships towards the achievement of targeted annual revenue goals. The BDR will develop and/or contribute to the creation of project proposals; generate detailed cost, timelines, and scope of work analysis; and participate in the development of plans for promotions in support of sales and marketing objectives including attendance at industry trade shows and conferences. Additionally, the BDR will address client issues to achieve a high degree of client satisfaction. The BDR must have good presentation and computer skills and have the ability to communicate well in different situations and to large groups. The position requires the ability to travel within the Eastern U.S. A competitive salary and commission are offered along with a generous benefit and expense package. Experience selling in the personal care industry or pharmaceutical industry is a plus. Company requires a background check prior to employment. (Continued on page 34)
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Please e-mail resumes with salary requirements to: jobs@bioscreen.com. No phone calls. www.bioscreen.com __________________________________________________________
safety support and conducting clinical testing at progressively increasing scientific levels per GCP (Good Clinical Practices). Apply online to: Job #NA00022 http://www.energizerholdings.com/en/careers/external/Pages/index.aspx. __________________________________________________________
Posting Date: (4/9/14) n PRODUCT SAFETY MANAGER – PLAYTEX/ENERGIZER PERSONAL CARE, ALLENDALE, NJ Playtex, a division of Energizer Personal Care in Allendale, NJ, is a leading manufacturer and distributor of consumer and personal care products. The Product Safety Manager will manage Product Safety programs for all personal care lines of business. Principal Responsibilities: • Supervise product safety specialists. • Provide in-house expertise on human health hazard evaluation and risk assessment. Qualifications: • Ph.D. in the Life Sciences, Toxicology, Biology, or Pharmacology is highly desired. • 12+ years’ experience in an FDA-regulated industry providing product safety support and monitoring pre-clinical and clinical testing at progressively increasing scientific levels. • Experience with topical products is important; experience with feminine care products is a plus. • EPA/FDA Safety Risk Modeling experience, including risk assessment. Apply online to: Job #NA00021 http://www.energizerholdings.com/en/careers/external/Pages/index.aspx. __________________________________________________________
Posting Date: (4/7/14) n ACCOUNT MANAGER: TECHNICAL MANAGER – ORAL CARE We are BASF, the world’s largest chemical company, and we are the leader in sustainable chemical solutions. BASF is The Chemical Company focused on global challenges today and in the future. Our people change the world every day. We have big goals for our Technical Group and we are working to build the best team in the Personal Care Industry with specific sites on the Oral Care Business. This role is located in Tarrytown, New York. This opportunity can take you to locations both locally and overseas allowing you to deliver a truly global impact. Principal responsibilities: • Manage oral care projects for North America, as well as participate in the Oral Care global team. • Supervise the Oral Care Laboratory; including personnel, and act as the technical lead for the oral care category in North America. • Keep abreast of innovations in the global oral care market. • Working effectively as part of a multi-functional team (sales, marketing, etc.). • Support Sales in customer technical presentations and customer project initiatives. • Represent your area of expertise in both the internal and external technical community (e.g., AADR, IADR). Qualifications: • B.A./B.S. in Chemistry, Biology, or related scientific field; M.S. or Ph.D. preferred. • Minimum 7 years in Oral Care a must. Formulating and designing test methods experience is highly desirable. • Demonstrated Project Management skills required. • Minimum 3 years managing people is required. • Travel approximately 25% to domestic and international locations. • Excellent communication and interpersonal skills required to successfully interact with internal and external customers. • Product development experience desired. • A leader in the Oral Care Industry with a deep understanding of the technology behind it. • An experienced manager who has successfully led a team of scientists through the implementation of project launches related to the Oral Care Market. • A strategic thinker and effective written and oral communicator with polished presentation skills. • Someone with the ability to translate complex projects and tasks into something that is easily understood by colleagues and customers. Apply online at: http://jobs.basf.us/job/Tarrytown-Technical-Manager-Oral-CareTarrytown%2C-NY-Job-NY-10591/46651600/.
Posting Date: (4/9/14) n SR. PRODUCT SAFETY SPECIALIST – PLAYTEX/ENERGIZER PERSONAL CARE, ALLENDALE, NJ Playtex, a division of Energizer Personal Care in Allendale, NJ, is a leading manufacturer and distributor of consumer and personal care products. The Sr. Product Safety Specialist will be part of the Product Safety team for the personal care lines of business. Principal responsibilities: • Plan and conduct safety/toxicological reviews, risk assessments, product safety clearances, and safety information searches in support of product development. • Conduct routine safety/toxicological raw material reviews for all product categories including food contact items and provide safety support for raw materials as needed for international registrations. • Conduct safety/risk assessments, including Margin of Safety calculations as needed, based on established SOPs for global safety compliance. This includes making informed judgments based on literature searches and vendor information. • Search toxicological information to support special safety projects and industry-wide issues. Qualifications: • M.S. degree in Toxicology, Pharmacology, or a relevant technical field. • 5+ years experience in the OTC/cosmetic industry providing product 34
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