cosmetiscope-09-2013-web by NYSCC Webmaster

SEPTEMBER 2013 • Vol. 19 No. 7

New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists

www.nyscc.org

Up In Smoke

few years ago when I was walking through a smoky casino on my way to a session at our mid-year meeting in Las Vegas, I noticed my skin seemed to be a little tighter after emerging on the other side of the gaming area. By the end of the next day, I needed twice as much moisturizer as I needed the night before. Was I being overly harsh in my belief that smoking is bad for not only smokers but also those around them, or was there actually something “there”? Turns out I wasn’t imagining things. Smoke, regardless from which end of the cigarette it arises, is toxic to skin in a variety of ways. In fact, smoke from the end of the stick that points away from the smoker is higher in toxins and free radicals than from smoke that’s pulled through the filtered end. Makes sense, but who thinks about these things? Researchers at Estée Lauder Research Laboratories in Melville, New York, do. Over a decade ago they discovered that skin exposed for 15 minutes to cigarette smoke showed an increase in lipid peroxides over a 24-hour period.1 Lipid peroxides, which are Reactive Oxygen Species, lead to glycation of dermal tissue and oxidize lipids in cell membranes and intercellular lipids that, along with cells in the stratum corneum, form the skin’s barrier. When the barrier is intact, moisture levels within skin are normal, so it feels moist and comfortable, and surface lines are reduced or do not appear at all. But when these lipids are oxidized, as they are in the presence of tobacco smoke, skin can feel noticeably tight and dry. Lipid peroxides can also oxidize sebum, cells, and melanosomes in pores to cause blackheads and trigger inflammatory enyzmes, including matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs). MMPs destroy dermal tissue including collagens, the family of proteins that give shape, thickness, and flexibility to the dermis. They have also been linked to the reduction of collagen production in the skin. In a study by researchers in the Department of Dermatology at Japan’s Nagoya City University Medical School, new collagen formation decreased over 40% when MMP production increased after exposure to tobacco smoke for just a short time.2 Dry skin, which can be exacerbated by the diuretic effect of

…Rebecca James Gadberry

nicotine, clogged pores, wrinkles, and sagging skin are problems common to many smokers as well as non-smokers who are exposed to secondhand smoke on a regular basis, such as people who live with a smoker or work in businesses where smoking is permitted indoors. In fact, smokers are five times more likely to have wrinkles than non-smokers who are rarely around tobacco smoke. The Lauder study shows lipid peroxide levels in the skin’s

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5th ANNUAL CULINARY EVENT • SEPTEMBER 19th …featuring Mediterranean Cuisine • See page 12 for more information

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2013 NYSCC BOARD OF DIRECTORS & PROGRAM CHAIRS CHAIR

Steve Herman (973) 479-5702 steveh50@optonline.net

CHAIR-ELECT

Steve Neidenberg (815) 337-2500 sneidenberg@ritacorp.com

TREASURER

Sonia Dawson sonia.dawson@croda.com

SECRETARY

Kim Burch (215) 320-1573 Kim.Burch@elementis.com

ADVISOR

Brian Hom (973) 345-8600 x3430

HOUSE

Jenna Jelinski (201) 396-8431 jjelinski@morretec.com

MEMBERSHIP

Amy Marshall (908) 806-4664 amy.marshall@altana.com

PROGRAM

Cathy Piterski (678) 730-1643 cpiterski@essentialingredients.com

SPECIAL EVENTS

Phil Klepak (973) 265-2869 pklepak@summitresearchlabs.com

SUPPLIERS’ DAY

Danielle Kennedy dkennedy2014nyscc@gmail.com

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EDUCATIONAL HOUR SPEAKER Speaker: T. Joseph Lin, Ph.D. Topic: Application of the “Less Is More” Principle to Formulating and Manufacturing Cosmetics Date: September 11, 2013 • 4:30 PM Location: Valley Regency, Clifton, New Jersey

Abstract:

t is quite natural to think “More Is Better,” as we often mistakenly believe more input will always lead to more output. Being a non-equilibrium system, emulsion products can often experience unexpected changes in viscosity or stability, which can affect product performance or perceived quality. Fear of this possibility often encourages us to use more surfactants or more energy. In reality, emulsion stability depends on the balance of the surfactants and how it is put together. More surfactant or energy does not always assure better quality, as excess surfactants can cause skin irritation and more heating can cause product degradation. Sometimes, reducing the level of a certain surfactant in a formulation can improve stability. Reducing energy input by using Low-Energy Emulsification (LEE) can reduce not only energy costs, but also processing time. By understanding the effects of composition and process variables (cV and pV) on the point of optimal balance (Zp), the principle of “Less Is More” can be used to solve many practical problems, while reducing costs. Practical examples will be used to explain how to find Zp and to illustrate the fact that sometimes what appears to be a lack of luck can become good luck.

Biography:

r. Lin began his career at Beauty Counselors, Inc. as a process engineer and at Rohm & Haas as a research chemist before becoming Manager of the Emulsion Laboratory at Max Factor in 1965. He started his consulting work in 1974, specializing in formulation and processing of cosmetic emulsions. He has presented frequently at scientific meetings around the world, and has been recognized multiple times, including with the Literature and Best Paper awards from the SCC, and two IFSCC Awards for his presentations at London Congress in 1974 and Sydney Congress in 1978. In 2001, he received the SCC’s highest honor, the Maison G. deNavarre Medal Award, for his contributions to the art and science of cosmetic research, including his original work on Low Energy Emulsification (LEE). Dr. Lin’s book, Manufacturing Cosmetic Emulsions: Pragmatic Troubleshooting and Energy Conservation, was published by Allured Books in 2010. His English column, “Notes from the Orient,” appeared in Cosmetics & Toiletries from 1976 to 1995. His “International Review” column, written in Japanese, appeared in Fragrance Journal for 38 years, from 1975 to 2013. His Chinese column, “International Perspective,” was published in C&T China from 2004 to 2010. Dr. Lin obtained his B.S. from University of California, Berkeley, M.S. from University of Washington, and Ph.D. in Chemical Engineering from Wayne State University in Detroit, Michigan.

ISBS/SICC 1ST JOINT INTERNATIONAL CONGRESS

COSMETISCOPE ADVERTISING

Ageing Skin: Diagnostic Tools and Cosmetic Treatment

COSMETISCOPE EMPLOYMENT

October 15-16, 2013 Milan, Italy

COSMETISCOPE EDITOR Roger McMullen roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu

Bret Clark rbclark@ashland.com

Guojin Lu glu@ashland.com

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M O N T H LY C H A P T E R M E E T I N G Speaker: James R. Schwartz, Ph.D. Topic: The Science of Dandruff Formation and Treatment Date: September 11, 2013 • 6:30 p.m. Location: Valley Regency, Clifton, New Jersey Cocktail Reception: 5:30 PM

Abstract:

Biography:

andruff and its more severe form, seborrheic dermatitis, are generally thought to be caused in part by commensal scalp yeast of the genus Malassezia. Other requirements include sebaceous lipids and an innate host response. Recent research is elucidating the molecular events involved in the etiology of the condition as well as the physiological skin reaction leading to the common symptoms of flakes, itch, and dryness. The most common strategy for treating dandruff involves controlling the population of Malassezia via the delivery of anti-fungal agents, most frequently from a shampoo vehicle. Since the delivery vehicle is compositionally complex and involves a rinsing step, the pharmacology of the vehicle is as important as the choice of the active in achieving therapeutic activity in use. Recent improvements in measurement capabilities have allowed an appreciation of the multitude of active delivery-related factors crucial for efficacy: amount of active retained on scalp after rinsing, its spatial distribution, and its molecular bio-availability. These factors make for fascinating scientific exploration, involving the intersection of formulation chemistry, skin physiology, and microbiology.

ames R. Schwartz, Ph.D. is a Research Fellow at the Procter & Gamble (P&G) Company in Cincinnati, OH, where he is currently directing research initiatives on seborrheic dermatitis and dandruff to understand their etiology and identify more efficacious treatments. He has a long track record of accomplishments at the interface of chemistry and biology of relevance in the Beauty Care industry. His extensive studies of how surfactants and polymers behave on skin have led to the development of commercially relevant technology for cleaning skin mildly. Over the past 26 years, he has emerged as one of P&G’s lead technologists, gaining recognition in the top five percent of Procter & Gamble scientists. Schwartz’s work focuses primarily on the science of skin, hair, and scalp care. He holds over 25 patents for personal care products and beauty science technology. He is the author of over 20 articles in numerous peer-reviewed journals including The Journal of American Academy of Dermatology and The Journal of the American Chemical Society. Schwartz graduated cum laude from Kenyon College in Gambier, OH where he received a Bachelor of Arts in Chemistry. In 1986, he received his Ph.D. in Inorganic Chemistry from University of Illinois.

CHAPTER MEETING COST: Pre-registered SCC members: $35 ($70 at the door) • Pre-registered non-SCC members: $75 ($110 at the door) Students: $10 ($50 at the door) • Emeritus: Free ($40 at the door)

NYSCC MONTHLY MEETING REGISTRATION: • Online: www.nyscc.org • For questions, please contact: John Carola at JohnC@protameen.com or (973) 879-7019.

Directions to Valley Regency, Clifton, New Jersey ■ Via Route 46 West: Follow Rt. 46 West to the Valley Road/Montclair exit. Make right turn on Valley Road and quickly take a U-turn. Follow Valley Road South. Proceed 1/2 mile; Valley Regency is on the left. ■ Via Route 46 East: Follow Rt. 46 East to the Montclair exit. Make right turn on Valley Road and proceed 1/2 mile; Valley Regency is on the left. ■ Via Garden State Parkway Northbound: Follow Parkway South to Exit 154. Take Route 46 West for 1 mile. Exit Valley Road. Make right turn on Valley Road and quickly take a U-turn. Follow Valley Road South. Proceed 1/2 mile; Valley Regency is on the left. ■ Via New Jersey Turnpike Northbound/Southbound: Follow Turnpike to Exit 16W – Route 3. Take Route 3 West for 6 miles to the Valley Road/Montclair exit. Make right turn on Valley Road and quickly take a U-turn. Follow Valley Road South. Proceed 1/2 mile; Valley Regency is on the left. ■ Via the George Washington Bridge: Take Route 80 West to Exit 57B – Route 19 South Clifton for about 3/4 mile to the Valley Road exit. At the top of the exit make a right, go 6 miles; Valley Regency is on the left side. ■ Via Route 80: Follow Route 80 East to Exit 53 – Route 46. Take 46 East for 3.6 miles to the Montclair exit. Make right turn onto Valley Road and proceed 1/2 mile; Valley Regency is on the left side.

1129 Valley Road, Clifton, New Jersey 07013 • (973) 744-4510 V V O O L L U U M M E E

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Membrane lipid peroxidation. The lipid bilayer shows a phospholipid with its polar headgroup in contact with an H2O layer and the unsaturated alkyl chains present in the lipid phase of the membrane. (a) A radical (R˙) abstracts a hydrogen atom from the unsaturated chain rendering a lipid radical. (b) The lipid radical then reacts with O2 to produce a lipid peroxyl radical with a conjugated diene structure. (c) The lipid peroxyl radical portion of the phospholipid migrates to the lipid-H2O interface where it interacts with alpha-tocopherol. (d) The lipid peroxyl radical is converted to a lipid hydroperoxide leaving the alpha-tocopheroxyl radical, which can react with aqueous phase ascorbic acid. (e) The alpha-tocopheroxyl radical is regenerated by ascorbic acid to its original form, alpha-tocopherol. Various enzymes aid in the repair of the lipid hydroperoxide: phospholipase A2 (PLA2), phospholipid hydroperoxide glutathione peroxidase (PH-GPx), fatty acyl-coenzyme A (FA-CoA), and glutathione peroxidase (GPx). The scheme above was adopted from the original of Gary Buettner, Arch. Biochem. Biophys., 300, 535-543 (1993). Reprinted with permission from Alluredbooks: R. McMullen, Antioxidants and the Skin, Alluredbooks: Carol Stream, IL (2013).

barrier barely increase two hours after exposure to tobacco smoke, but rise over three times that level when measured twenty-four hours after exposure. Since lipid peroxides directly damage skin’s moisture holding capacity, it’s no wonder skin feels drier the day after exposure than while you’re sitting in a smoky room, or walking quickly through a smoke-filled casino. The heightened levels of lipid peroxides also explain why those continuously exposed to smoke have such a high incidence of clogged pores and deep wrinkles, although the reason for the latter extends beyond the presence of lipid peroxides on the skin’s surface. Unfortunately, simply using more effective moisturizing ingredients won’t prevent skin from becoming dry after tobacco smoke exposure. Plant oils and barrier lipid repair agents—common remedies for dry skin—may even enhance free radical formation since lipid peroxides also oxidize these ingredients. The answer to protecting skin from tobacco smoke appears to lay instead with antioxidants. Medical researchers have shown that combined oral supplements of Vitamins C and E help lower lipid peroxide levels in the blood and tissues of people who smoke, so some cosmetic chemists have looked in the direction of this antioxidant duo when designing products to care for skin exposed to harsh environments, including tobacco smoke. During their research, the Lauder group discovered applying an antioxidant cocktail to skin prior to smoke exposure produced an average decrease in lipid peroxide values of 40.9%. In a study conducted by another group of researchers, 2% and 5% concentrations of white tea extract containing standardized levels of polyphenols— including epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG), an antioxidant also found in green tea, grapeseeds, and pine bark—was compared to clinically effective doses of 1% alpha-lipoic acid (ALA) and 1% alpha-tocopherol (vitamin E), both of which are recognized as among the most effective antioxidants to control lipid peroxides. While ALA and vitamin E produced modest reductions in lipid

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peroxide levels, with vitamin E performing over twice as effectively as the ALA, white tea at both concentrations showed the highest efficacy. The 2% level of the plant extract reduced lipid peroxides by a little over half, while 5% showed the most efficacy of all the ingredients tested, with a 75% reduction in free radicals. In yet another study, nordihydroguaiaretic acid (NDGA), originally derived from the chaparral bush that grows in the American Southwest, was shown to outperform pure EGCG by a factor of two-to-one, with NDGA reducing the rate of lipid oxidation by 200% over four hours. In the same test, coenzyme Q10 reduced oxidation rates by approximately 75%, while vitamins C and E reduced oxidation less than 20% and 5%, respectively. Unfortunately, the identity of who performed the study as well as the percentage of each ingredient tested has been lost over time, but the end data still survives on my computer. Many plant-derived antioxidants are effective at reducing lipid peroxides. These include resveratrol from red wine and Mexican bamboo; green and white teas; hesperetin from citrus fruit; hydroxytyrosol from olive water; the carotenoids lutein, astaxanthin, and lycopene; and proanthocyanidins, the red or purple pigments in grapes, passionflower, black currant, French maritime pine, cranberries, blueberries, bilberries, elderberries, gogi, noni, acai, coffeeberry, prunes, apples, and pomegranates. Also popular are tocopheryl acetate; thermus ferment, derived from the extremophile thermus thermophyllus; coenzyme Q10 (ubiquinone); and the synthetic vitamin E analog, dimethylmethoxy chromanol. Several plant oils—jojoba, cranberry, and high oleic sunflower and safflower—also appear to be highly effective at controlling oxidation from lipid peroxides, giving these oils, and often the products they’re in, protection from oxidation that can extend to several years. Other plant oils, especially those recommended for barrier repair, can oxidize and release lipid peroxides when exposed to light, oxygen, and tobacco smoke. These include borage, evening

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Structure of vitamin C (ascorbic acid).

primrose, hazelnut, kukui, hemp, soybean, olive, avocado, and low-oleic sunflower and safflower. When these plant oils are incorporated into a product, they should be accompanied by productprotective antioxidants such as one or more of the antioxidant plant oils, or antioxidant preservatives, such as tocopherol, rosemary officianalis, ascorbic acid, ascorbyl palmitate, BHA, and BHT. Of course, there are other methods to protect from lipid peroxidation, but let’s leave that to the art of the cosmetic chemist. Some antioxidants may display more protective activity than just acting against lipid peroxides in skin exposed to tobacco smoke. When researchers at Japan’s Nagoya City University Medical School applied a blend of L-ascorbic acid and a water-soluble form of vitamin E, tobacco-induced alteration of destructive dermal MMPs was prevented. To protect cells in the epidermis during smoke exposure and over a twenty-four hour period afterwards, French researchers created an extract of oligosaccharides formed with amino acids from laminaria digitata, a brown seaweed that grows off the coast of Brittany. The extract, with the trade name Phycosaccharide® Anti-Pollution and available to cosmetic manufacturers from Codif in Saint-Malo, France, was tested on

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sections of whole human reconstituted epidermis over a twenty-four hour period. Two sections of epidermis were exposed to tobacco smoke for one hour, with one section treated first with a 2.5% solution of the extract. After exposure, both sections were incubated for twenty-four hours, then tested for cell viability (the presence of cell life and normal activity). While the smoke-exposed section showed a 30% reduction in cell viability and an increase in cell death (apoptosis) of epidermal cells under the skin’s barrier, cells in the section pre-treated with the extract showed no change, yielding 100% protection of the epidermis. The same study conducted with a one percent solution of the extract showed ten percent reduction in cell viability, equaling 75% protection of the epidermis. For the purpose of addressing my thoughts about smoke and its contribution to dry skin, lipid peroxides have been the primary focus here. But it’s important to know that tobacco smoke contains a variety of free radicals and over 4,000 other chemicals, at least 60 of which are known carcinogens and six are fetal toxicants. The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) classifies environmental tobacco smoke (ETS), also known as “sidestream,” “passive,” “secondhand,” or “involuntary” smoke, as a Group A carcinogen—a category reserved only for the most dangerous cancer-causing agents. ETS contains higher concentrations of chemicals than mainstream smoke, most likely because, when a person smokes, they inhale the chemicals through a filter, while ETS is a combination of exhaled smoke and smoke from the end of the cigarette, where there is no protective filter. A report published in April, 2004 by researchers at the University of California (Continued on page 6)

SCC Continuing Education August 22-23

Formulation of Emulsion Foundations

September 12

Practical Cosmetic Product Development

September 12

Organic Chemistry for the Cosmetic Chemist

September 23

Basic Cell Biology, Skin Cells, and Cell-targeted Ingredients

October 23-24 November 14 November 14-15

BOTANICAL EMOLLIENTS & SPECIALTY PARTICLES

24/7 Online Ingredient Information:

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Introduction to Polymer Science and its Applications in the Cosmetic Industry Skin Diseases and Dermatopharmacology Regulatory Update

December 11

Molecular Biology, Gene Expression for the Cosmetic Chemist

December 11

Low-energy Emulsification For more information, visit www.scconline.org.

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Up In Smoke

Innovation for Hair & Skin

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at Riverside measured twice the level of nicotine, tar, nitric oxide, and carbon monoxide—one of the deadliest components of car exhaust—in ETS than in mainstream smoke. Health effects from such exposure go far beyond the skin. According to a report published in 2004 by then U.S. Surgeon General Richard Carmona, M.D., M.P.H., F.A.C.S., tobacco smoke affects every cell in the body and “causes disease in nearly every organ in the body at every stage of life.” “The toxins from cigarette smoke go everywhere blood flows,” Carmona said in a news conference in May of that year. Numerous studies over the last fifty years have connected tobacco smoke to lowered immunity, heightened inflammation, poor wound healing, and abnormal scarring—all of which affect the skin—as well as cardiovascular diseases, abdominal aortic aneurysm, lower levels of HDL (good) and higher levels of LDL (bad) cholesterol, chronic obstructive pulmonary disease (COPD), pneumonia, gum disease, cataracts, asthma, sudden infant death syndrome, low birth weight, myeloiod leukemia, cancer of the lung, upper digestive system, uterine cervix, pancreas, nasal cavity, renal pelvis, and urinary bladder, and, depending upon a woman’s genetics, may increase the risk of breast cancer. As exposure to smoke increases for both active

Structure of proanthocyanidin C1—an epicatechin trimer —found in grape seed extract. Courtesy of R. McMullen, Antioxidants and the Skin, Alluredbooks: Carol Stream, IL (2013).

and passive smokers, levels of smoke’s harmful substances increase in the body as well. So, instead of just thinking about how tobacco smoke affects skin directly from above, it’s important to realize skin is just a covering for the body underneath. Dry skin is simply a sign of a far greater threat.

References 1. D. Maes et al., “Cigarette Smoke-Induced Peroxidation in Human Skin and Its Inhibition by Topically Applied Antioxidants,” Skin Pharm. Appl. Physiol., 15, 63-68 (2002). 2. L. Yin, A. Morita and T. Tsuji, “Alterations of Extracellular Matrix Induced by Tobacco Smoke Extract,” Arch. Dermatol. Res., 292(4), 188-194 (2000).

About the Author…

croda.com/na/pc

ebecca James Gadberry is the CEO of YG Laboratories in Fountain Valley, California and the instructor of Cosmetic Sciences in the Department of Humanities, Sciences, Social Sciences and Health Sciences at UCLA Extension in Los Angeles since 1986. In 2011, she was the Chairman of the California Chapter of the SCC and has been a member of their Board of Directors since 1984. She is teaching a new Continuing Education course for the SCC titled Basic Cell Biology, Skin Cells and Cell-Targeted Ingredients on September 23, 2013 in Long Beach, California and is currently writing the chapter on epigenetics in the upcoming Harry’s Cosmeticology, 9th Edition.

Make note of it…Cosmetiscope Send news of interest, guest editorials, and comments to: Roger McMullen, Editor • E-mail: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu

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T R I - P R I N C E T O N

E V E N T S

Hair & Scalp Biology Workshop November 11 This one day intensive workshop on hair and scalp biology, taught by leading hair biologist, Dr. Gillian Westgate, is intended to organize and advance hair and scalp biology as an integral component of hair care product development.

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Variations of Hair & Skin November 12-13 This focused international conference will provide a unique platform to discuss variations of both hair and skin due to ethnicity, age, and health, and approaches to design and market innovative products targeted to treat these effects. This year's conference will have a special focus on scalp, underarm, and baby care.

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Measuring Skin & Product Applications November 14-15

The soul and science of beauty. www.evonik.com/personal-care

Dr. David Moore and Dr. Nik Kollias moderate this two-day hands-on course focused on measurement science and linking these measurements to skin physiology. Included in this workshop are technical discussions on the physiology of skin, anatomy of skin, molecular biology, irritation, inflammation, pigmentation, transport barriers, biophysics, and bio-responses. __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

For more information on all three events contact Eleanor Lehman at events@triprinceton.org, or (609) 430-4820; or visit their website at www.triprinceton.org/education.

18th International Hair Science Symposium

HairS’13 • September 4th-6th Lübeck, Germany

airS‘13 will follow the tradition of the DWI-organized hair scientific meetings offering a unique platform for discussing the newest and most appealing ideas of hair research and hair care science. It is clearly evident that findings from modern cell biology are gaining more and more importance in hair science and cosmetics, and there is a chance of inspiration and a need of communication between the so-called “dead hair club” and the “living hair club.” At HairS’13 we look forward to another outstanding scientific meeting of colleagues and hair experts from all over the world.

A t t e n t i o n

M e m b e r s

Unemployed and Emeritus members may continue to attend monthly meetings free of charge. Please contact the registration booth upon arrival. Unemployed members may also continue their membership free of charge by submitting the renewal form with unemployment details. Please remember that the SCC Employment Service is here to assist you. Contact: Guojin Lu • E-Mail: glu@ashland.com

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Insights Into Skin Product Development October 29, 2013 Center for Dermal Research Rutgers University Life Sciences Building • Busch Campus Pharm – Pharmaceutics 145 Bevier Road, Piscataway, NJ 08854 For more information contact Christine Otto at cbmfrontdesk@biology.rutgers.edu, or visit http://www.njbiomaterials.org/web/index.php?p=industry&s=2833.

MICHIGAN SCC EDUCATIONAL SEMINAR

The Molecular Biology of Skin September 10-11, 2013 • Grand Rapids, Michigan The Michigan SCC Chapter is holding their first educational event, “The Molecular Biology of Skin,” on September 11, 2013 at the Amway Grand Hotel (Grand Rapids, MI). Rossow USA Inc. Distributors of Smart Cosmetic Ingredients

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Register for this event at www.sccmi.org: Early registration (before August 28th) Registration (after August 28th) Members – $135, Non-Members - $160 Members – $150, Non-Members – $175 Group of 4 or more on the same registration - before August 28th $125 for members, $165 non-members Special Student Rate – $40 *** Fee at the door – $175 per attendee *** Please contact Lane Duvel at (616) 787-6689 or lane.duvel@amway.com if you are interested in sponsoring. Payment with PayPal on our website is available. Sponsorship deadline is August 24, 2013. Tuesday, September 10, 2013 6:30 pm – 8:00 pm: Social/Reception – Grand Rapids Brewing Company Wednesday, September 11, 2013 8:30 am – 10:00 am Breakfast 10:10 am – 11:00 am Dr. Nava Dayan – “The Generation of Wrinkles–Biochemistry and Prevention” 11:00 am – 11:10 am Refreshments 11:10 am – 12:00 pm Dr. Philip Wertz – “Skin Lipid Biochemistry” 12:00 pm – 1:10 pm Lunch 1:10 pm – 2:00 pm Dr. Philip Gies – “Skin Microbiology” 2:00 pm – 2:10 pm Refreshments 2:10 pm – 3:00 pm Dr. Di Qu – “Skin Imaging” 3:00 pm – 3:30 pm Roundtable/Q&A with all speakers 3:30 pm – 3:45 pm Wrap Up

We look forward to seeing you at our first Educational Seminar! 8 8

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I See Dead People

…Donald Koelmel ot in the paranormal manner, like the little boy in the movie The Sixth Sense. No, I see them every day at work. Don’t you? You know the look. The hallow eyes, the emotionless face, the uninspired gait. But who killed all these spirits? Although I am highly unqualified to investigate mass murders, I’ve seen enough episodes of Law and Order to figure this out. Hmmm… Let’s see. A global voodoo curse? Can’t rule it out. Another zombie apocalypse? I don’t see any conspicuous consumption of brains or any other tasty body parts, so probably not. And quite frankly I’m relieved. My nerves are still frayed from the last zombie epidemic. A massive brainwashing by cult leaders? Getting closer, I believe. Fortunately, the victims can still speak. What is all that nonsense they are chanting over and over and over? “Teamwork!” “Work smarter!” “Work Faster!” “Innovate!” “Raise the bar!” “Stretch your goals!” “One of us! One of us!” Ah-ha! This can only be the diabolical work of management! Arrest them all and book’em. What are the charges? Let’s start with possession of weapons of mass destruction—incessantly wagging tongues, BIG egos, and pea-sized brains inside those swelled heads—(and you thought anthrax was deadly) with intent to kill all human spirit. They are going away for a long time. On a brighter note, my next installment: How to raise the dead.

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June 5, 2014 Poster Competition: Call for Abstracts

Save the Date

New York Academy of Sciences • World Trade Center, Building 7 • New York, NY The conference will be held on the top floor of the newly constructed Building 7 of the World Trade Center, home to the New York Academy of Sciences. A concurrent poster session will be judged on originality and innovation relevant to methodologies and the use of antioxidants in skin care.

Poster Prizes: 1st place: $1,500 2nd place: $1,000 3rd place $500

Please send poster abstract submissions by October 31, 2013 to Jenna Jelinski at JJelinski@morretec.com.

Conference attendees will receive a complimentary book: Antioxidants and the Skin by Roger L. McMullen

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Employment Opportunities Send employment ads to…Guojin Lu (glu@ashland.com) and Roger McMullen (roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu). You may contact National SCC at (212) 668-1500 for a list of employment opportunities. Employment listings published in the Cosmetiscope are abridged due to space limitations.

Specialty Silicones t Specialty Esters Delivery Systems Skin & Hair Moisture Complexes EXSYMOL S.A.M.: Silanols t Peptides GELYMA: Marine Cell Actives 201-825-8800 t www.biosiltech.com

07-17-2013 ■ RESEARCH INVESTIGATOR/SCIENTIST International Flavors and Fragrance (IFF), located in Union Beach, NJ, is seeking a Research Investigator. This position will support the strategic mission of the Delivery and Material Technology Team. The individual will be an integral part of a team in conducting cutting edge research to develop and commercialize patentable fragrance and flavor delivery systems with superior performance to support the continued business growth at IFF. Education requirements: The successful candidate will have a Ph.D. in Chemistry, Chemical Engineering, or Food Science, with at least 1-3 years of industrial or academic post graduate research experience. Experience requirements: Seven years related experience with three years of experience managing research projects. Apply at: http://www.iff.com/career-opportunities.aspx Position number=1353-292. ______________________________________________ 07-10-2013 ■ PROSPECTIVE SCIENTIST, SKINCARE (PISCATAWAY, NJ) Chanel Inc., a leader in the luxury goods industry, is seeking a Prospective Scientist, Skincare to develop and support long-term research concepts using novel or state of the art technology. This individual is expected to develop innovative and exciting products for a global marketplace as well as seek out and initiate blue-sky projects. Position is technically self-directed. Education requirements: Bachelor’s degree in related scientific discipline required. Master’s degree in related scientific discipline is preferred. Experience requirements: Seven years related experience with three years of experience managing research projects. To apply, please visit: http://ch.tbe.taleo.net/CH01/ats/careers/ requisition.jsp?org=CHANEL&cws=1&rid=771 Chanel, Inc. is an Equal Opportunity Employer. EOE M/F/D/V. ______________________________________________ 07-02-2013 ■ ACCOUNT MANAGER – ACTIVE INGREDIENTS BASF – The Chemical Co. is searching for an Account Manager located in Northeastern U.S. This position is a home based covering the United States, Canada, and Mexico. The Account Manager – Active Ingredients' primary responsibility is to manage a portfolio of accounts in North America to identify new

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projects, lead with a collaborative approach, and to grow the sales at these accounts. Principal responsibilities: • Account Management of several large personal care accounts in North America, to develop short- and long-term development projects. • Sell standard product portfolio offerings for quick business gains. • Provide a complete service offering (commercial, technical, marketing, legal, and regulatory) at these accounts. • Identify and influence all decision-making authorities at the customer. • Management of complex development projects with key accounts. • Grow the biological active business at a level above average market growth rates. Qualifications: • Minimum five years of experience selling biological active ingredients in the Personal Care market sector. • B.S in Chemistry, Biology, or related field. • Estimated 50% travel depending on where you live in the territory. • Experience with large, complex, and global Personal Care companies is a plus. • Marketing and/or Project Management exposure is also a plus. Apply online at: http://jobs.basf.us/job/Florham-Park-AccountManager-Active-Ingredients-North-America-JobNJ-07932/2695315/. ______________________________________________ 06-27-2013 ■ ACCOUNT MANAGER Callahan Chemical is a leading independent distributor of a wide variety of materials for use in Personal Care, Flavors & Fragrances, Nutrition, Pharmaceutical, and HI & I. Since 1958, Callahan has maintained strong relationships with customers and world-class supplier/ partners. Callahan currently has an opportunity for an Account Manager in the Northern New Jersey Area. Description: • Manage existing territory sales and promotion of specialty ingredients. • Responsible for sales/profitability growth and new account development. • Ability to build and maintain effective relationships with customers, decision-makers, and influencers, understanding and communicating customer requirements.

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• Promote and sell company products/services to existing and prospective customers. • Participate in manufacturer training and maintain understanding of product attributes. • Generate sales reports and contribute to budgeting and forecasting. • Participate in appropriate trade association meeting and shows. Qualifications: • Bachelor’s degree or equivalent experience in science/technology or business-related field with a minimum of 3-5 years of related sales experience. • The successful candidate will be dynamic, motivated, organized, and able to work independently. • Excellent presentation, communication, and negotiation skills required. • Local travel required. If interested, please forward your résumé and salary history to: cford@calchem.com. ______________________________________________ 06-27-2013 ■ REGULATORY AFFAIRS SPECIALISTS (ALLENDALE, NJ) Playtex, a division of Energizer Personal Care, seeks Regulatory Affairs Specialists in our Allendale, NJ R&D facility. Responsibilities: Provide regulatory support to the commercialization of all personal care product categories, with emphasis on cosmetics and OTC drugs in North America, Latin America, and Asia. Qualifications: • B.S. preferable in Biology, Chemistry, Engineering, or Material Science with 2-6 years regulatory experience. • Sound knowledge of U.S. or other regional cosmetic or drug product registration processes. • Experience with international cosmetic, drug, or device product registration preferred. • Knowledge of FDA regulations governing cosmetics, OTCs, or drugs. Apply online to job #: 33873 (North America); 34196 (Asia) at: http://www.energizerholdings.com/careers/ Pages/default.aspx.

06-27-2013 ■ SR. REGULATORY AFFAIRS ASSOCIATE (ALLENDALE, NJ) Playtex, a division of Energizer Personal Care seeks a Regulatory Affairs Associate in our Allendale, NJ facility. Responsibilities: Provides support in the product registration process with primary focus on Latin America. Qualifications: • B.S. in Biology, Chemistry, Engineering, or Material Science helpful but not required. • Regulatory Affairs experience preferred and strong computer skills required. Apply online to job #32267 at: http://www.energizerholdings.com/careers/ Pages/default.aspx. ______________________________________________ 06-24-2013 ■ SALES AND MARKETING ASSISTANT – PART-TIME Soné, located in Milford, PA, is looking for a selfdriven individual willing to work hard in an entrepreneurial environment for a niche line of personal care products. Position Responsibilities: • Assist in developing and implementing a marketing plan for a niche line of personal care products in regional distribution. • Provide sales support in creation of advertising copy for the products. • Call on customers and go to various venues; develop sales in both retail and wholesale distribution including salons and spas. • Evaluate new products from the R&D lab and provide direction and feedback. Job requirements: • Degree in Business or Marketing. • Experience in retail sales of personal care products or consumer goods with 3-5 years experience. • Job hours may include weekends. Please send your résumé to: Kevin@kylabs.com for consideration. Initially this is a part-time position, but it has the opportunity to grow with the business. Remember, your ability to grow the business will grow the job.

Upcoming 2013 NYSCC Events Calendar • For updated NYSCC information, visit us on the web at: www.nyscc.org • For National SCC information: www.scconline.org September 11

NYSCC Monthly Meeting, Valley Regency, Clifton, NJ

September 19

Culinary Event, Midtown Loft, NYC

October 3 November 13

NYSCC Monthly Meeting, Pleasantdale Château, West Orange, NJ Cosmetic Technology Transfer Conference, Renaissance Woodbridge Hotel, Iselin, NJ

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5th Annual Culinary Event A hands-on experience featuring a mixture of Mediterranean cuisines on

Thursday, September 19th • 6:00–9:00 PM Outline of our evening… • 1 hour Cocktail Reception • 1 hour of Hands-on Cooking • 1 hour Sit-down Dinner

Featured Entrée: Roasted Lamb Kebobs Location: My Cooking Party, Midtown Loft

sensiva® – multifunctional additives designed for your innovation euxyl® – optimum preservation according to your needs

schülke inc. 1-888-267-4220 www.schulke-us.com/cosm

MCP is NYC’s most successful recreational cooking school. Our fun and entertaining culinary events are unique and effective solution for Corporate Teambuilding Activities and Company Outings. MCP’s beautiful Culinary Loft provides a perfect alternative to both your office and the clinical cooking school; transporting you to an event that is ½ a cup of learning, ½ cup of party, and a full glass of memories!

This Event offers: ■ Vegetarian Meals ■ Door prize raffle ■ Buses will be available and leave promptly at 4:30 p.m. from two locations in NJ. • Parking lot behind Harold’s New York Deli— 3050 Woodbridge Avenue, Edison, NJ (Right by Holiday Inn) and • Garden State Plaza—between Chilis’ and Candy store. Left corner near service road.

Cost: $90.00/person Space is limited to the first 125 people registered with payment received. Registration is open so register today! Deadline to register is September 6th. Non-refundable payment must be received by September 7th. Register online by credit card at www.nyscc.org.

For more information please contact: Andrea Guerrero (aguerrero@gattefossecorp.com), Amy Marshall (amy.marshall@altana.com), or Juanita Majette (jmajette@rd.us.loreal.com) 12 12

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