Cosmetiscope - February 2016 by NYSCC Webmaster

FEBRUARY 2016 • Vol. 22 No. 2

New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists

www.nyscc.org

New Systems + New Focus = New SCC …by Rachel Grabenhofer

an you recall life before the Internet? It’s hard to. Heck, some of you may have never not known the Internet. (To give you “kids” an idea, in the old days, we used things called “fax machines” to send “instant messages.”) As the Internet went mainstream (and got faster), users were transported to a digital place where they became the center of their own reality. That sure changed the way we all research, communicate, attend college, order dinner, etc.—and it’s still changing. As consumers, we can now get what we want, when and how we want it; and this has set a precedent for what’s possible. As such, established businesses were forced to evolve from offering traditional products and services, to anticipating consumer needs and even reinventing (customizing) to meet them. And in the meantime, new industries emerged from this consumer-centered dynamic. E-commerce is one great example. It was within this setting of system upgrades and consumer expectations where our very own Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) found itself held back—not unlike other organizations. It needed a plan to adapt, not just for industry, but for the members it serves. That’s where we began our discussion with David Smith, executive director of the SCC, about several big changes. “The organization I walked into had a strong membership, but was stagnant from a systems vantage point,” said Smith. “We were using highly antiquated systems to try to accomplish business. By using old systems, we had all these offline processes that were holding us back.”

Registration Upgrade As many of you know, even as recently as last year, attendees would register for the SCC Annual Meeting on a printed form, which was re-keyed into the database, then physically charged out by someone else. “Right out of the gate, I realized we were stuck in the early 1990s—that was the last time our membership database had been updated,” said Smith.

After gathering proposals, the SCC settled on a new system and initiated its implementation this August. “Now, the [registration] process is as easy as ordering from Amazon.com. You input a credit card and are formally registered—and all of our internal systems connect. That was a much-needed change,” he said. (Continued on page 2)

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February 18th • The Bethwood, Totowa, NJ

2016 NYSCC BOARD OF DIRECTORS & PROGRAM CHAIRS CHAIR Rey Ordiales (732) 878-7798 reyordiales@outlook.com

CHAIR-ELECT Marie Thadal (609) 712-3716 chairelect@nyscc.org

TREASURER Cathy Piterski (201) 675-3799 cpiterski@essentialingredients.com

SECRETARY Giorgino Macalino (862) 324-2749 Secretary@nyscc.org

ADVISOR Kim Burch (609) 443-2385 Kim.Burch@elementis.com

HOUSE Mohamed Abdulla (973) 487-6572 mohamed.abdulla@airliquide.com

MEMBERSHIP John Carola JohnC@protameen.com

PROGRAM John Goffredo (201) 647-1841 jagformulators@gmail.com

COMMUNICATIONS Stephen Weinberg (973) 307-4854 webmaster@nyscc.org

SPECIAL EVENTS Gillian Ratto (723) 788-7320 Gillian.Ratto@elementis.com

COSMETISCOPE EDITOR Roger McMullen roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu

COSMETISCOPE ASSISTANT EDITOR Joe Albanese (908) 456-2968 joealbanese2@gmail.com

COSMETISCOPE ADVERTISING Bret Clark rbclark@ashland.com

COSMETISCOPE EMPLOYMENT Stephen Weinberg (973) 307-4854 webmaster@nyscc.org

New Systems + New Focus = New SCC

(Continued from page 1)

Members-only Directory The next phase, which rolled out in October, was an online membership directory only for members. “We have been talking about doing this for some time. It’s a terrific feature our membership can leverage to explore the powerful network that is the SCC,” said Smith. The society had been publishing a print directory, but as with most directories, the information was dated by the time it came out. “For us, having the directory online really gives power to the member—to the extent they are keeping their profile up-to-date. While it’s a members-only tool, we hope non-members will see it as a useful benefit and take the time to join to explore this and other new members-only offerings.”

Online Library

David Smith, What other new offerings? First, the SCC is building a digital library Executive Director of the SCC complete with content from the Journal of Cosmetic Science and select pieces from Cosmetics & Toiletries, as well as other Allured Business Media book content—all free to members. “The piece we’re working on now, in collaboration with Allured, is making content available to SCC membership. For us, it’s just one sign of the power of collaboration. When you’ve got good partners, the things you can do to advance both organizations’ interests can be pretty powerful.” Smith’s goal is to get all the content he currently has online and available to members by the end of November—just in time for the Annual Meeting. “It’s a huge task but it’s exciting, and we hope that our members will come to see this as a society that really represents the way people network, learn, and access information in this day and age—and that we won’t simply continue to do things the way we did 20 years ago.”

New ‘Marketing Fellow’ Status Something else that’s changed from 20 years ago is a new membership designation as “Marketing Fellow,” which was approved by the board this year. “In the past, members who became Fellows have historically been from the technical side. But we’ve now added a new Fellow category for the marketing professionals. I think we have some very loyal and accomplished members who are on the marketing/sales side, and I don’t think we’ve done a great job in serving them, recognizing their achievements, or providing content for them in the past; that’s now going to change,” said Smith. He envisioned the addition of content about how to bridge the gap between marketing and technical teams, which would especially roll into the continuing education programs (CEP) and other events.

Free Student Membership While the society has been successful at educating and training cosmetic scientists in industry, academia, and government, with its strong continuing education content, Smith feels there is room for improvement in its student outreach. “In the past, we’ve been less focused on reaching undergraduate and graduate students, and those who are early in their careers. The board and I feel we need to leverage the incredible knowledge of our Fellows and other member experts to give back to students and younger members, so we can push the industry forward from an education vantage point.” With this in mind, the SCC is launching an initiative for universities with cosmetic-focused programs, including University of Cincinnati, Fairleigh Dickinson University, Fashion Institute of Technology, F E B R U A R Y

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University of Toledo, and others, to make membership free for students for the first year. “It’s a way to get them in the network and let them know we care about their education and continuing education,” Smith explained. To further this effort, the SCC also plans to launch a program for members in the industry for less than five years by developing content directed to them. “If you think of these programs as a pipeline, we’re looking to improve its reach so it stretches out in a way that can more directly impact students when they hit college and are inspired by the cosmetic industry. “

Potential Future Initiatives Smith added there’s certainly more work to be done, especially in growing awareness of opportunities in our industry. “I gave opening remarks a year ago at a local association event for women in science, and many Ph.D. candidates and other students came up to me afterwards and said, ‘It would be great if you could meet with some of the deans of our universities because many of them only talk about going into jobs in pharma. We would love to see some classes on cosmetics.’ So I also strongly believe the SCC has a role to play in just educating the educators.” Another thing he cares deeply about, and knows members also do, is STEM education and inspiring kids. He gave a brief example from his own childhood. “I grew up in a small midwestern town with few job opportunities. It had been a thriving steel town but then the factories closed. Many boys would talk about looking for work in an automobile plant or something similar, and the girls talked about going to school to become beauticians. Now these are important, meaningful jobs but when you look at it from our [society’s] vantage point, we’ve got an opportunity to affect the mindset of these middle school and high school students— and maybe inspire them. “We could be saying ‘it’s great that you care about beauty. Did you know there are career paths where you could not just style someone’s hair, but create the products beauticians use?’ I think it’s a critical endeavor that a nonprofit in this day and age can undertake: inspiring kids to enjoy science in a very handson, enjoyable way.” “I really do view this as potentially being a national initiative in the future. I think it positions us, again, as stretching out the ‘pipeline’ in a very strong and healthy way,” said Smith.

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Of the Industry, For the Industry Competition is everywhere; for market share, dollars, even for attention—just think of all the events our industry offers. So how can the society stand out while still serving its purpose? “It may sound corny, but as Abraham Lincoln said years ago, the hallmark of a great democracy is that it’s built on a platform of the people, by the people, and for the people. I think the beauty of the SCC is you’ve got incredible volunteers like Tony O’Lenick, or Dawn Burke-Colvin, or Kim Burch—people in the industry leading the society and its Chapters. And the people who led it before them, who were also part of the industry. The organization is made up of the people it’s meant to serve. Also, any profits made go back into education and serving our membership. I think that sets us apart.”

Secretariat Move to NYC Perhaps the most impactful way the society will stand out and serve an even greater role for the industry is by uniting under the same roof with the Secretary General of the International Federation of the Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC), the over-arching organization to the national SCC. The Secretary General relocated from the U.K. to New York at the end of 2015. For this part of the (Continued on page 4)

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discussion, we turn to Tony O’Lenick, national SCC president (2014-2015). “This was a battle. The English society had been doing it for so many years—Lorna Weston in particular. When she retired this year, the group decided it was no longer interested in the role,” O’Lenick said. He explained that France wanted it, but so did the United States. While the French pointed to Paris as an iconic city for cosmetics and fashion, the U.S. chapters make up about one-third of the total IFSCC membership. “We just felt it provided more to members by having the Secretary General located in New York. It will give us a much closer working relationship for a united approach to the global market. The national society has really focused on the members and bringing together local chapters, zones, and now internationals. We’ve been around for 70 years, and we’re doing more and more for our members. Their loyalty is important to us—and we really need to support the people who have taken care of us.” To this, Smith added, “There are many natural synergies between the IFSCC and SCC. We both care about membership and member engagement, we both coordinate large events, etc. Obviously we’re all part of the same over-arching organization, so collaboration is in both our best interests.”

Spirit of Collaboration Clearly, collaboration can be a powerful approach to progress. And in the spirit of collaboration, as Smith stated, Allured has been working with the SCC to provide valuable content to members through its mentorship program. It was also in this spirit that Allured initiated talks some years ago with the SCC to garner support for establishing the Cosmetics & Toiletries Summit in place of the mid-year SCC Annual Scientific Meeting. Further, as the SCC determined it will not hold an Annual Meeting in December 2016, the C&T Summit will not be held in 2016, in support of driving attendance to the IFSCC Congress in Orlando. The IFSCC and SCC are the pillars of the industry, so Allured believes it is important to stand with them as they go “Beyond Dreams Into New Frontiers” and “Innovate, Inspire and Imagine”, on October 30– November 2, 2016, in Orlando.

The original article appeared in Cosmetics & Toiletries Magazine. See more at: http://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/networking/news/company/ New-Systems--New-Focus--New-SCC-352193941.html#sthash.aIEi805K.dpuf

About the Author:

Rachel Grabenhofer is the Scientific Acquisitions Editor for Allured Business Media, publisher of Cosmetics & Toiletries and other titles. She has been an active member in the cosmetics R&D industry for 15 years.

Call for Papers

he Cosmetiscope editorial committee invites all interested parties to submit feature technical articles for publication in the NYSCC monthly newsletter. Authors of feature articles are eligible to win the prestigous NYSCC Literature Award ($1,000) for the best front-page article published during the calendar year. Also, authors receive $200 reimbursement to attend a theatrical performance of their choice. Writing an article for your peers is a very rewarding experience, both personally and professionally, and would reserve your place in NYSCC history. You may choose whatever topic you feel would be interesting to fellow colleagues in our industry. We also welcome any other types of commentaries or articles that may be published in the Career Corner, Technical Tidbit section, or as a Letter to the Editor. Please send correspondence to: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu.

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JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE The Official Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists CALL FOR MANUSCRIPTS

he Society of Cosmetic Chemists is soliciting scientific manuscripts concerned with cosmetics or the sciences underlying cosmetics, as well as papers of interest to the cosmetic industry for publication in the Journal of Cosmetic Science, The Official Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists. The JOURNAL will consider manuscripts for publication in the following categories, provided they are prepared in proper scientific style and adequately referenced: • Original articles • Review articles • Technical notes • General articles • Preliminary communications • Letters to the Editor SUBMISSION OF MANUSCRIPTS Manuscripts submitted for publication should be accompanied by a cover letter and sent via e-mail to dscelso@scconline.org. Additional information is available from the SCC National Office: www.scconline.org.

Make note of it… Send news of interest, guest editorials, and comments to Roger McMullen, Editor • E-mail: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu

Upcoming 2016 NYSCC Events Calendar • For updated NYSCC information, visit us on the web at: www.nyscc.org • For National SCC information: www.scconline.org February 18 Mintel PC Products Symposium, The Bethwood, Totowa, NJ March 22 Perfumery Association Joint Seminar Dinner Meeting, Chart House, Weehawken, NJ May 9 NYSCC Symposium on Product and Process Development, Sheraton Edison Hotel, Edison, NJ May 10-11 Suppliers’ Day, NJ Convention and Exposition Center, Edison, NJ June 8 NYSCC Cruise – Aqua Azul: Preservation Seminar, Weehawken, NJ July 21 Golf Event, Crystal Springs, Hamburg, NJ September 6 Cosmetic Claim Substantiation, Location TBD September TBD Culinary Event, Location TBD October TBD Personal Professional Development, Location TBD Oct. 30-Nov. 2 IFSCC Congress, Orlando, FL November TBD Rheology Symposium, Location TBD

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Mintel PC Products Symposium • February 18th The Bethwood, Totowa, New Jersey

oday’s savvy personal care consumers demand functional products. Formulators, marketers, and suppliers need to meet these demands and design new and innovative formulations offering consumer perceived benefits. Leaner teams, tighter timelines, and shortened product cycles drive marketing, formulations, and safety groups to work closely together from product concept to launch. These groups can no longer work in a standard linear manner, but have to operate simultaneously to meet these challenges to commercialization. Event presenters will discuss aspects of new product development that enable marketing teams to deliver products that achieve consumer desires on performance and aesthetics.

Chair: Sahar Fakhry-Smith, SNF CHAPTER MEETING SPEAKER • 6:00 PM Speaker: Topic: Abstract:

Sara Jindal A Journey Through the Past 25 Years of Innovation in the Beauty and Personal Care Market

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n this presentation, we provide a market perspective of the history of the beauty and personal care industry. The beauty and personal care markets are some of the most innovative in the world, and whether the evolution of the market is technology or marketing driven, the two tend to keep pace with each other from inception through product launch.

Biography:

s Mintel’s Senior Innovation and Insights Analyst, Sarah regularly interfaces with key beauty clients and lends her expertise based on over 16 years of experience developing ingredient technologies for beauty and personal care. Sarah’s roles in both marketing and product development covered all beauty and personal care categories with a focus on skincare and active ingredients. Having worked for a variety of companies over her career, Sarah has gained an in-depth understanding of the industry and draws upon not only her work experience, but also degrees in Biology, Biochemistry, and Evolutionary Biology.

CHAPTER MEETING SPEAKER • 6:45 PM Speaker: Topic:

Anthony Esposito Product Development Science and Art

Abstract:

he technical expertise needed to develop useful commercial products that delight the consumer is a daunting task. We [the cosmetic chemists of the world] must summon all of our knowledge of the chemical world and apply that technical expertise to design products that will be produced in large quantities, where every unit maintains high quality at the lowest cost possible. All of this must be done while delivering the varied claims that our marketing colleagues wish to make. In addition, we must be sure that the products we create are safe and effective. Furthermore, these products must remain stable and must be compatible with the packages they will be distributed within. In this presentation, I will review how the cosmetic chemist makes all of this possible.

Biography:

s a Senior Chemist, Anthony Esposito is responsible for the development of new underarm products as part of the Body Care group at Coty Inc. Anthony’s extensive personal care experience in both basic research and product development (oral care and underarm protection) affords him the skills and insight necessary to innovate

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and design new products that not only deliver the required performance benefits, but also achieve the targeted marketing concepts. He has co-authored 10 journal articles and has been awarded 13 patents.

CHAPTER MEETING SPEAKER • 7:30 PM Speaker: Topic:

Steve Schnittger Safety and Regulatory Considerations in New Product Development

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he development of new products requires sound knowledge of the safety of ingredients and a thorough understanding of the regulatory requirements surrounding new product introductions. In this presentation we will delve into these topics and much more.

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Biography: teve is presently the Vice-president of Global Microbiology and Fermentation in R&D for the Estée Lauder Companies. He has been with Estée for over 20 years, all within the Microbiology and Bio-Ferm Lab.

NYSCC MONTHLY MEETING REGISTRATION: For registration and more information: www.nyscc.org. Open registration: 5:00 PM • Dinner: 5:30 PM

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CHAPTER MEETING COST: Pre-registered SCC members: $35 ($70 at the door) Pre-registered non-SCC members: $75 ($110 at the door) Students: $10 ($50 at the door) • Emeritus: Free ($40 at the door)

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Directions to The Bethwood, Totowa, NJ 38 Lackawanna Avenue, Totowa, NJ 07512 • Tel: (800) 377-8316

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• Garden State Parkway South: Go through Saddle Brook toll and then take Exit 159 to Route 80 West (approximately 8 miles) to Exit 55A; at the first traffic light, make a left onto Lackawanna Avenue. • Garden State Parkway North: Take Exit 153B to Route 3 West to Route 46 West (approximately 2 1/2 miles) to the Union Boulevard, Totowa, Paterson exit; at the first traffic light, make a right onto Lackawanna Avenue. New Jersey Turnpike North: Take Exit 16W to Route 3 West (approximately 9 miles) to Route 46 West (approximately 2 1/2 miles) to the Union Boulevard, Totowa, Paterson exit; at the first light, make a right onto Lackawanna Avenue. Lincoln Tunnel: Route 3 West to Route 46 West; follow instructions from Route 46 West. Holland Tunnel: To New Jersey Turnpike North. See instructions above. Route 80 West: To Exit 55A (Little Falls/Totowa, Union Boulevard); at the first light, make a left onto Lackawanna Avenue. Route 80 East: To Exit 54 (Minisink Road); at the stop sign make a right then take the first left (Furler Street) through traffic light. The Bethwood is on the left after the light. Route 46 West: Take the Union Boulevard, Totowa exit; at the first light, make a right onto Lackawanna Avenue. Route 46 East: Take the Union Boulevard, Totowa exit; at the light make a left onto Union Boulevard. At the first light, make a right onto Lackawanna Avenue. The Bethwood is 500 feet on the left. 287 North: Follow to Route 80 East; follow instructions for Route 80 East above. George Washington Bridge: Follow the signs to Route 80 West; see Route 80 West above. Route 23: Follow to Route 46 East; follow instructions for Route 46 East above. Staten Island: From the Goethals Bridge take New Jersey Turnpike North to Exit 16W; follow instructions from New Jersey Turnpike North above.

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Inspired Art & Science

Our Fragrance World Today March 22, 2016 The Chart House Lincoln Harbor, Pier D-T 1700 Harbor Boulevard, Weehawken, NJ 07086 Tel: (201) 348-6628 Join us for a highlight tour of the world of fragrance with expert speakers in fragrance safety, the emotional impact of smell and the role of the creative perfumer in the 21st Century. Enjoy the magnificent view of Manhattan while networking with members of these two great Societies.

Agenda: 4:00 - 4:45 p.m.

James Romine — President RIFM The Science of Fragrance Safety

4:45 - 5:30 p.m.

Avery N. Gilbert — Synesthetics, Inc. The Golden Age of Fragrance and How We Got Here

5:30 - 7:00 p.m.

Cocktails/Dinner

7:00 - 7:45 p.m.

Vincent Kuczinski & James Krivda — Perfumers MANE Developing Perfume—Fantasy and Reality

Pre-registration: $30 • At the door: $50 Students: $10 ($50 at the door) • Emeritus: Free ($40 at the door) For registration and more information: www.nyscc.org. 8

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The Science of Fragrance Safety James Romine — President RIFM Abstract:

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ragrances have come under increased scrutiny by regulators and by consumer activists. The scientific basis for assuring ingredient safety is an essential element in maintaining a robust and innovative fragrance industry. The Research Institute for Fragrance Materials (RIFM) provides the latest methodologies and assessments that can sustain consumer confidence in the products they buy.

Biography:

im Romine is President of the Research Institute for Fragrance Materials. He leads a nonprofit organization dedicated to the science that supports the safety of materials used in the fragrance industry. Jim provides strategic direction for a staff of highly qualified chemists and toxicologists who conduct research and generate safety assessments that are made available to industry and the public through peer-reviewed scientific publications. Prior to joining RIFM in 2015, Jim had a successful 35-year career with the DuPont Company. His last position at DuPont was Vice-president of Product Stewardship and Regulatory Affairs, a role he created in 2008. During his tenure, Jim helped guide the DuPont commitment to responsible creation, manufacture, and sales of products as diverse as chemicals, advanced polymers, agricultural chemicals, biotech seeds, and industrial enzymes. He currently serves on the board of the Product Stewardship Society, the Keystone Policy Center, and the Kalmar Nyckel Foundation. Jim received his B.S. in Chemistry from the University of MissouriRolla in 1974 and was awarded a Ph.D. in Organic Chemistry from the University of Michigan in 1980.

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The Golden Age of Fragrance and How We Got Here Avery N. Gilbert — Synesthetics, Inc. Abstract:

he fragrance industry is living through incredibly disruptive times. Methods, markets, and business relationships have been razed and rebuilt. The brand universe is transformed, and consumer segments have been shattered. Yet the world of fragrance is thriving. In science, art, and popular culture awareness of scent is fueling a desire for more access and more products. We may have entered the Golden Age of Fragrance. If we understand how we got here, we can continue to prosper.

Biography:

r. Avery N. Gilbert is a smell scientist, entrepreneur, and author. He is a Fellow of the Association for Psychological Science and a scientific pioneer in the areas of olfactory mental imagery, multisensory correlates of odor perception, and the psychological factors that bias odor judgments. His book, What the Nose Knows: The Science of Scent in Everyday Life, was a finalist for the Los Angeles Times Book Prize in Science & Technology, and shortlisted for the Royal Society Science Book Prize. Gilbert graduated from the University of California at Berkeley, and holds an M.A. in Biology and Ph.D. in Psychology from the University of Pennsylvania. Following an NIH postdoctoral fellowship at the Monell Chemical Senses Center in Philadelphia, he joined the Monell faculty. While there he co-authored the National Geographic Smell Survey. Later Gilbert left academia to create and lead the Sensory Psychology research group at Givaudan Roure Fragrances, and became a vice-president there. Gilbert runs Synesthetics, Inc., a company that provides innovative, multisensory research for the development and marketing of consumer products. Dr. Gilbert is a member of the Association for Chemoreception Sciences and the European Chemoreception Research Organization, and is on the advisory boards of Aromyx Corporation and the Institute for Art and Olfaction. He has published thirty scientific articles. He has discussed the science of smell on national television and radio, including FOX, NPR, CNN, CBS, and MSNBC. Gilbert blogs on the science and culture of smell at FirstNerve.com. (Continued on page 10)

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Our Fragrance World Today

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Developing Perfume—Fantasy and Reality Vincent Kuczinski & James Krivda — Perfumers MANE Abstract:

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n this presentation, we give you a tongue-in-cheek look at the fantasy of what clients want, expect, and demand from fragrance companies and how this quite often runs against the reality of time, price, safety, and science. Vince will assume the role of a client and Jim will be the perfumer. We will relate this to the work of cosmetic chemists, many who are our colleagues and face similar pressures.

Biography: im Krivda is Vice-president and Senior Perfumer at Mane in New York City. He was first exposed to the world of olfaction right out of high school, when he had the unique opportunity to train with French Master Perfumer Elie Roger. Growing up in the farmlands of Pennsylvania, he always enjoyed the great outdoors, and he continuously draws his inspiration from nature itself. An avid fisherman, water skier, and traveler, Jim also loves art and cooking. He views the craft of perfumery as an endless opportunity to translate feelings and emotions into scent.

Biography:

ince Kuczinski is Vice-president and Senior Perfumer at Mane in New York City. He came of age in a chemistry lab, where his first job as a lab tech ignited his fascination with the magic of perfumery. He sees the craft as a dynamic balance of art and science—a balance that is always moving, changing, and evolving. For inspiration, Vince turns to music, from Bach, Mozart, and Beethoven straight through to the Beatles and Pearl Jam. He is apt to describe his fragrance creations in the language of color, and has an instinctive feel for the nuances of subtle variation in value and tone. Vince loves orchids for their dazzling variety of inspirational colors, as well as for the breadth and depth of olfactive experience that orchids convey.

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Suppliers’ Day Education Session 1 • May 9

NYSCC Symposium on Product and Process Development Related Considerations Sheraton Edison Hotel Raritan Center, Edison, NJ

Attending the NYSCC Suppliers’ Day this year?

ell then, you should know that we have added an entire extra day to that eagerly anticipated annual global event. This seminar will cover diverse aspects of the technologies that make up the product and process development steps needed to bring new personal care products to market, from ingredients and formulating, to delivery systems, to testing bench-top prototypes, to scale-up to commercial production—many of the things to consider if you would like your new product launch to succeed in the marketplace.

Do not miss this great event! Please join us at the Sheraton Edison Hotel on May 9th. It is conveniently located close to the Expo Center where the Suppliers’ Day event is being held on May 10th-11th.

Program: • Aerosol Technology – Fundamentals in Product Development – Dave Streuli (Ashland Specialty Ingredients) • Personal Care Wet Wipes, A Unique Delivery System – Douglas Cole (Rockline Industries) • Formulation Innovation and Optimum Thickening – George Deckner (Deckner Consulting Services LLC) • Testing Fragrance Encapsulation: In-vitro and In-vivo – Dr. Claudio Ortiz (Colgate-Palmolive) • The Prospects of Personal Care Products Minus Polymers – Dr. Robert Lochhead (University of Mississippi) • Skin Bio 101 and Cosmetic Actives Delivery – Marc Cornell (Englewood Labs) • Thinking Fundamental and Integrity Aspects of Formulation Stability – Eric Abrutyn (TPC2 Advisors Ltd., Inc.) • Modern Solutions for Preservation – Steve Herman (Diffusion LLC) • Hair Care – Shampooing and Conditioning – Joseph Dallal (Ashland Specialty Ingredients) • Scale-up Pitfalls in the Cosmetic Industry – David Yacko (Estée Lauder) • Utilization of Sensory Markers in Dermatocosmetics – Samuel Shefer or Colin Scott (Salvona)

Sponsorship Opportunities: Sponsorships will be available to suppliers/vendors. Sponsorship will help defray costs and provide additional exposure at the Suppliers’ Day event, and acknowledge your company as a strong supporter of the New York Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists helping it fulfill its mission of advancing the science of personal care.

Symposium Chairs: Daphne Benderly (daphne.benderly@gmail.com) and Joseph Albanese (joealbanese2@gmail.com) For registration, please go to the NYSCC website: www.nyscc.org. 12

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Suppliers’ Day Education Session 2 • May 10 & 11

Cosmetics and Personal Care – A Roadmap for Navigating Your Career New Jersey Convention and Exposition Center 97 Sunfield Avenue, Edison, NJ Tuesday, May 10 10:00 - 11:00 a.m. Kevin Gallagher (Kevin Gallagher Consulting LLC)

Like, Connect & Tweet About Us!

FACEBOOK: NEW YORK SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS

12:00 - 1:00 p.m. Snehal Shah (Estée Lauder Companies) 2:00 - 3:00 p.m. Brian Czetty (P&G)

Wednesday, May 11

LINKED IN: NEW YORK SCC

9:00 - 10:00 a.m. Tony O’Lenick (Siltech LLC)/Mark Chandler (ACT Solutions Corp) 10:00 - 11:00 a.m. Mike Fevola (J&J) This event will be held at the Suppliers’ Day event in the tent adjacent to the luncheon.

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TWITTER: @NYSCC

Suppliers’ Day Education Session 3 • May 11

Skin Toxicology for Cosmetics – Risk Assessment of Skin Exposure

INSTAGRAM: NYSCCMAIN

New Jersey Convention and Exposition Center 97 Sunfield Avenue, Edison, NJ Presentations from 11:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m.

These connections were made possible by the NYSCC Social Media Committee

This event will be held at the Suppliers’ Day event in the tent adjacent to the luncheon.

Symposium Chair: Nava Dayan

Program description:

he cosmetic and personal care industry underwent key changes in the past decade to advance regulations and guidelines for safety assessment of consumer products. While regulations are slowly implemented in practice, the methodical technical process of risk assessment is limited and the completion of a “check list” often replaces it. The regulatory framework creates the perception that “safe” products can be launched if certain studies are conducted. However such an approach generates only partial acknowledgement of the limitations of the studies, science involved, and selection of a tier approach that is logical, based on the intended use, and is scientifically savvy. The animal testing ban dictates that risk assessment should be followed by in silico evaluation and a tier of in vitro or ex vivo testing. While refraining from animal testing adds challenges, it opens up opportunities for better understanding of mode of action and allows us, in many cases, to conduct the studies on more relevant human derived cells and models. Many regulatory guidelines express the need to employ experts in risk assessment of raw materials and finished formulations. Such practice can be faster, cheaper, and business rewarding. This workshop is established to discuss general aspects in risk assessment of skin care products combined with examples of specific studies and initiatives of key national organizations and companies. National leaders in Toxicology are joined to share recent knowledge and address questions and concerns of industry members. (Continued on page 14)

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Suppliers’ Day: Skin Toxicology for Cosmetics

(Continued from page 13)

11:30 a.m. – 12:05 p.m.

Skin as Immune Organ— Implications to Risk Assessment of Dermal Exposure Nava Dayan President, Dr. Nava Dayan LLC

he skin is the largest immune organ of the human body. As such it combines innate and adaptive immunity to fulfill its role. This introductory talk will discuss healthy skin barrier properties, immunity aspects, and key considerations in safety assessment of exposure.

Biography Nava Dayan, Ph.D. has 25 years of experience in the skin care segment, and has yielded more than 150 publication credits in numerous industry-respected journals and in four books. She was awarded the In-Cosmetics Gold Award for innovation and commensurate recognition from the NYSCC and the CRS for excellence. Dr. Dayan is the owner of Dr. Nava Dayan LLC, a skin science and research consultancy serving the pharmaceutical, cosmetic, and personal care industries. Dr. Dayan advises on product feasibility in skin care; efficacy and toxicology; and data interpretation for claims, formulation design, delivery for improved efficacy, and attenuated toxicity. Several examples of her company’s expertise include: drug-skin interactions, bio-markers (genomics and proteomics), skin/age related sensitivities, inflammatory skin disorders, innate immunity, and biota.

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12:05 – 12:40 p.m.

Alternative Methods for the 21st Century Helena Hogberg and Thomas Hartung Johns Hopkins Bloomberg School of Public Health, Center for Alternatives to Animal Testing, Baltimore, MD, U.S.

oxicology in the 21st century is confronted by challenges such as mixture toxicology, susceptible subpopulations, new products, and hazards as well as transparency. Current traditional (animal) tests have several limitations to tackle these objectives including costs, throughput, human relevance, and animal use. The National Research Council report, Tox-21c, suggests moving away from these traditional test methods to modern technologies based on toxicity pathways. This report emphasizes the need for new high content and high throughput approaches, such as omics techniques, organotypical cell cultures, machine learning, and mathematic modeling. These concepts are already used in a number of programs by federal agencies, human-on-chip programs, the Human Toxome project, efforts for translating evidence-based medicine to toxicology, etc. The Center for Alternatives to Animal Testing (CAAT) at Johns Hopkins is one of the groups involved in these developments. This presentation will give a summary of the overall activities in the field combined with illustrations of proofof-principle work at CAAT.

Biography Dr. Hogberg received her Ph.D. from Stockholm University, Sweden in 2009. Her experimental work was performed at the European Center for the Validation of Alternative Methods (ECVAM), Joint Research Center, European Commission in Italy. Her thesis work consisted of developing alternative tests for developmental neurotoxicity (DNT) by monitoring gene expression and electrical activity recording. Together with Dr. Hartung, she started the current laboratory at the Center for Alternatives to Animal Testing (CAAT) as a Postdoctoral Fellow. She was later promoted to a faculty position and later to Deputy Director of the Center. Her current research activity is still in the field of DNT with the use of emerging tools, such as 3-d organotypical cell models and omics approaches.

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12:40 – 1:15 p.m.

FDA Perspectives on the Regulation of Cosmetic Products Nakissa Sadrieh Director of the Cosmetics Division in the Office of Cosmetics and Colors (OCAC), FDA

his presentation will provide an overview of cosmetic regulations in the U.S. followed by a summary of several priority areas currently active in the Division of Cosmetics at the FDA. Areas such as adverse events analysis, compliance-related activities, labeling, claims, and active cosmetics research will be discussed.

Biography

Dr. Sadrieh obtained her Ph.D. in Toxicology in 1993 from Rutgers University in New Jersey. Following a postdoctoral fellowship in the Laboratory of Chemical Carcinogenesis at the National Cancer Institute, Dr. Sadrieh joined the Food and Drug Administration in 1996 as a pharmacology and toxicology reviewer. In 1998, Dr. Sadrieh became the supervisory pharmacologist in the Division of Medical Imaging and Radiopharmaceutical Drug Products, Center for Drug Evaluation and Research (CDER). In 2002, Dr. Sadrieh joined CDER’s Office of Pharmaceutical Science (OPS) as the Associate Director for Research Policy and Implementation. In OPS, Dr. Sadrieh’s work focused on scientific research that directly impacted regulatory decisions. As a scientific advisor to the OPS, Dr. Sadrieh supported CDER’s scientific mission by designing, conducting, and managing appropriate research projects aimed at resolving pending regulatory questions. Since 2004, Dr. Sadrieh has assessed the impact of new technologies, such as nanotechnology, on drug development and the regulatory review process, and as such, she is one of the Agency experts in all matters related to Nanotechnology. In October 2013, Dr. Sadrieh Joined the Center for Food Safety and Nutrition (CFSAN) as the Director of the Cosmetics Division in the Office of Cosmetics and Colors (OCAC).

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1:15 – 1:50 p.m.

CIR Safety Assessment of PEGs Cocamine and Application of a Framework for Read-Across Analysis Ivan Boyer Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR)

his presentation will provide a brief introduction to the CIR safety assessment process, CIR’s initiatives and goals for enhancing the process, and a framework for identifying and categorizing analogs for read-across assessments. The presentation will review the recent CIR safety assessment of polyethylene glycol cocamine (or PEGs cocamine) and related ingredients as a case study, including the CIR Panel’s critique of the framework and the computational methods used to implement the framework.

Biography Dr. Ivan Boyer received his Ph.D. in Toxicology from the University of Rochester School of Medicine and Dentistry in Rochester, New York. He then worked as a post-doctoral fellow in the Pharmacology Department at the University of Medicine and Dentistry of New Jersey, Robert Wood Johnson School of Medicine. His post-doctoral research was supported by a National Research Service Award from the U.S. National Cancer Institute. Subsequently, he served as a Toxicologist/Reviewer at the Center for Food Safety and Applied Nutrition (CFSAN) of the U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Dr. Boyer then served for over 20 years as a Toxicologist and Human Health and Ecological Risk Assessor at The MITRE Corporation and Noblis, Inc., which are non-profit government consulting firms headquartered near Washington, D.C. Currently, Dr. Boyer is the Senior Toxicologist at the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) in Washington, D.C. Dr. Boyer is the principal author of more than 100 technical reports, and has authored or co-authored peer-reviewed publications in areas ranging from the mechanisms of chemical carcinogenesis to the safety assessment of cosmetic ingredients. (Continued on page 16)

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Suppliers’ Day: Skin Toxicology for Cosmetics

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1:50 – 2:25 p.m.

Tox21 In Vitro Approaches: Quantitative High Throughput Screening and Cellular Secondary Screening David Gerhold Genomic Toxicology NCATS Division of Pre-Clinical Innovation NIH

he Tox21 Consortium is a collaboration between: the National Center for Advancing Translational Sciences (NIH-NCATS), Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), National Toxicology Program (NTP)/NIEHS, and Food and Drug Administration (FDA); with a mission to replace animal testing with in vitro methods. The Tox21 Consortium is currently screening 10,000 environmental compounds for potential human toxicities using a variety of in vitro cellular screens using Quantitative High Throughput Screening (qHTS). Assay AC50 values are quantitated for each chemical, and active chemicals are pursued through secondary cellular screens including gene expression and computational analyses.

Biography David Gerhold is a staff genomic toxicologist at NCATS. He is developing in vitro methods to identify toxic compounds by introducing differentiating stem cell models and the gene expression technologies, RNAseq and RASL-Seq. These new technologies support efforts to identify potentially toxic chemicals in the environment through the Toxicology in the 21st Century consortium, identify biomarkers of genetic susceptibility to tobacco, and facilitate drug development through the Therapeutics for Rare and Neglected Diseases program. Previously, Gerhold pioneered gene expression microarray technology at Merck Research Labs, applying this expertise to identify kidney injury biomarkers. He subsequently co-led the Kidney Biomarker Working Group within the Predictive Safety Testing Consortium, collaborating across the pharmaceutical industry to qualify seven biomarkers with the Food and Drug Administration and publishing the findings in 2010. Gerhold also worked as a liaison with clinical nephrologists initiating translational studies to improve nephrology standard of care.

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2:25 - 3:00 p.m.

Advanced 3-D In Vitro Tissue Models Offer Valuable Insight into Product Safety Alex Armento MatTek Corporation

dvancements in tissue engineering combined with a greater understanding of basic human skin biology have driven the development of highly predictive in vitro test methods. 3-D in vitro skin models can be used to evaluate standard toxicity endpoints (irritancy, corrosion, sensitization, etc.) in addition to ever more complex product safety questions, including elucidation of the molecular mechanisms driving skin toxicity. This presentation will provide a current overview of both the advantages and limitations that 3-D tissue models offer for the development of skin care products and outline product development strategies utilizing commercially available 3-D tissue models.

Biography Alex Armento is the Director of Business Development at MatTek Corporation, an in vitro assay development and tissue engineering firm. He joined MatTek in 2008 and has since supported the development and implementation of in vitro safety and efficacy test methods for chemical, cosmetic, personal care, and pharmaceutical organizations.

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3:00 – 3:30 p.m.

Question and Answer Panel Discussion

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Cosmetic Claim Substantiation – Science, Marketing and Regulation September 6, 2016

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TBD in New Jersey

Symposium Chair: Nava Dayan, Ph.D.

variety of topical human exposure studies are conducted by raw material and finished cosmetic product manufacturers to explore their impact when applied to skin with the aim of drawing consumer appealing claims. Market competition often drives aggressive campaigns that may be confusing and misleading, studies may be poorly designed and executed, and scientific data can be incorrectly interpreted. The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) are carefully inspecting cosmetic products for nonsubstantiated misleading claims. The National Advertising Division (NAD) further examines truth and accuracy of national advertising claims. If the claim is indeed misleading, and drives the consumer to purchase a product that will not deliver as promised, this is an ethical matter. With the skin care industry striving to produce safer products, it should also stream its scientific resources towards better testing regimens of product activity on the skin, and provide fair translation into claims. Selecting common criteria for justification of claims is a challenging aspect of product development since it needs to be customized for the purpose of use and nature of the product developed. This workshop brings together experts in industry and regulatory agencies to present current framework to conform to the law, regulations, savvy science, and ethical means.

FACEBOOK: NEW YORK SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS

LINKED IN: NEW YORK SCC

TWITTER: @NYSCC

INSTAGRAM: NYSCCMAIN These connections were made possible by the NYSCC Social Media Committee

Employment Opportunities For complete ads please go to the NYSCC website: https://www.nyscc.org/employment-listings.html.

n Sales Representative – Northeast USA TC-USA, New Jersey Based

n Marketing Coordinator Miyoshi America, Inc., Dayville, CT

n Cosmetic Chemist Intern Shin-Etsu Silicones of America, Totowa, NJ

n Junior Commercial Assistant – Personal Care Market Bloomage Freda Biopharm USA Inc., Parsippany, NJ

n Key Account Manager – Northeast Beraca International North America Northeastern U.S.

n Color Chemist Process Technologies and Packaging Scranton, PA area

n East Coast Account Manager SILAB, New Jersey

Monthly Meeting Group Discount The NYSCC is offering a group discount of 15% to companies who send 5 or more employees to a monthly meeting. All five employees would need to be registered at the same time to receive the discount. Once purchased, registrations are non-refundable.

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