SEPTEMBER 2014 • Vol. 20 No.7
New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists
www.nyscc.org
2014 NYSCC Sun Exposure Symposium Table of Contents The Chemistry of Cooking 2 SCC Continuing Education 2 NYSCC Soars to New Heights 3 Thanks from the Lesenko Family 4
Opening Remarks — Symposium Chair Laura A. Spaulding, Ph.D.
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oday, our industry provides highly innovative, technologically advanced sun protection products to encourage consumers to practice sun safety year round as part of their own and their family’s regimen for optimal skin health. Mintel reported that total U.S. retail sales for the sun protection and sunless tanners market were $1.3 billion in 2013, without including the personal care and cosmetic products that offer SPF protection. Euromonitor International
NYSCC Sun Exposure Symposium Special Section: Symposium Agenda & Information 5-6 Symposium Committee 6 Directions 7 Hotel Information 7 About the Symposium Chair 8 Presentation Abstracts 8-15 Poster Technology Session Abstracts 16-24 IFSCC 28th & 29th Congress Information 25 Employment Opportunities 26-28
reports global spending on sun care products totaled a little less than $10 billion last year. The purchasing interest of the next generation consumer will be influenced partly by familial and cultural habits and practices, and partly by concerns about their changing environmental and economic conditions. From an attitudinal perspective, the Skin Cancer Foundation found that, “Men don't like to wear sunscreen.” In response to these “barriers to sunscreen purchase,” strategic direction for growth of sun protection products may involve further builds on multitasking benefits, product aesthetics, and expanding brand breadth and depth with segmentation that responds to future consumer needs and wants. The NYSCC Sun Exposure Symposium brings together academic and industry leaders presenting current research and development technologies, and regulatory and marketing considerations to help us innovate our way to multi-benefit, multi-value sun protection products that encourage consumer purchase. (Continued on page 8)
NYSCC SUN EXPOSURE SYMPOSIUM • OCTOBER 15th P i n e s M a n o r, E d i s o n , N e w J e r s e y
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2014 NYSCC BOARD OF DIRECTORS & PROGRAM CHAIRS CHAIR Steve Neidenberg sbn605@aol.com
CHAIR-ELECT Kim Burch (609) 443-2385 Kim.Burch@elementis.com
TREASURER Sonia Dawson sonia.dawson@croda.com
TREASURER-ELECT Marie Thadal (609) 712-3716 nyscctreasurerelect@gmail.com
SECRETARY Jenna Jelinski (201) 396-8431 jjelinski@morretec.com
ADVISOR Steve Herman (973) 479-5702 steveh50@optonline.net
HOUSE Andrea Guerrero aguerrero@gattefossecorp.com (862) 324-1063
MEMBERSHIP Amy Marshall (908) 806-4664 amy.marshall@altana.com
PROGRAM Cathy Piterski (678) 730-1643 cpiterski@essentialingredients.com
SPECIAL EVENTS John Denoia (845) 664-4862 jdenoia@espllc.us
COSMETISCOPE EDITOR Roger McMullen roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu
Upcoming SCC Continuing Education September 17
Emulsion Technology
September 25
Sustainable Cosmetic Product Development
October 9 October 16 & 17 November 7
Emulsifiers for Cosmetic Products: Structures & Practical Application Gums, Thickners & Rheology Modifiers Scale Up & Processing
COSMETISCOPE ADVERTISING
November 13
Molecular Biology: Gene Expression for the Cosmetic Chemist
Bret Clark rbclark@ashland.com
December 10
Fragrance As A Science
December 10
Regulatory Update
COSMETISCOPE EMPLOYMENT Jason O’Neill (631) 252-2939 Jason.Oneill@kemin.com
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For more information, please visit www.scconline.org.
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NYSCC Soars to New Heights …Tom Branna, Editorial Director, HAPPI Magazine This is an abbreviated version of the original article, which appeared in HAPPI Magazine. For the full article go to: http://www.happi.com/issues/2014-08-02/view_features/nyscc-soars-tonewheights/?email_uid=ab0baa1fb7/list_id=972e8e7a65/
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new level of education was reached by the New York Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists in June when chemists gathered on the 40th floor of Building 7 at the World Trade Center complex in New York City to learn about antioxidants. With less than two months to go before the event, Antioxidant Symposium chairman Roger McMullen was concerned that only a handful of chemists had registered for the event—he needn’t have worried. By the time the Symposium took place on the 40th floor of Building 7 at the World Trade Center complex in New York City on June 5, there were more than 200 attendees and some would-be registrants had to be turned away. “Throughout the day, the auditorium was at full capacity,” noted McMullen of Ashland Specialty Ingredients. “There was not an empty seat in the house, not even during the closing remarks of the symposium. Overall, the day was a great success.” Attendees were drawn to the excellent program that included more than a dozen presentations by leading authorities in and outside the industry, along a poster session, which awarded two first place prizes of $1,500 to Dr. Diana Chang of Rutgers University and Drs. Ed Pelle and Qi Zhang of Estée Lauder Companies. Two second place prizes of $1,000 were awarded to Dr. Jean-Marie Botto of Ashland Specialty Ingredients and Julian Silverman of City College of New York, CUNY. The event was even attended by the IFSCC Praesidium, which is the governing body of the International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC). The Praesidium meets twice a year to discuss important IFSCC issues. This year the organization elected to hold its spring meeting in New York City in conjunction with the NYSCC Antioxidant Symposium.
Group Discount The NYSCC has decided to offer a group discount of 15% to companies who send 5 or more employees to a monthly meeting. All five employees would need to be registered at the same time to receive the discount. Once purchased, registrations are non-refundable.
2014 TRI-Princeton Events Hair & Scalp Biology Workshop • September 15 This one-day intensive workshop on hair and scalp biology, taught by leading hair biologist, Dr. Gillian Westgate, is intended to organize and advance hair and scalp biology as an integral component of hair care product development.
Science Behind Hair Claims • September 16-17 This course focuses on attributes of hair, together with testing and technical knowledge, leading to the support of product claims. In addition, we will review the media perspective and regulatory aspects of the claims process.
Applied Hair Science Conference • September 18-19 This conference brings together people creating hair care products, today and tomorrow, with the creators of the newest product technology, technical insights, and measurement methods. TRI-Princeton requests abstract submissions on hair science and its applications for podium and poster presentations. We invite all topics related to hair science.
Topics…
Fiber science • Biology and ethnic variations • Chemistry and proteomics New measurement techniques • Developing technologies and approaches For more information on all these events contact Eleanor Lehman at events@triprinceton.org; or call (609) 430-4820; or visit the website at www.triprinceton.org/education. V O L U M E
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Note of Thanks from the Lesenko Family
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s many of you already know, my grandson was severely burned this July. I am glad to report that he is home and doing well. The doctors are amazed that the progress of his healing has been so quick. With that being said, we would like to thank all of the members of the NYSCC for their thoughts, prayers, and contributions to Jayden’s recovery. The members of this society are truly a family, and now part of our family. I am sincerely grateful to be part of such a caring and thoughtful organization. Again, we cannot express our feelings of gratitude enough. Only a very sincere THANK YOU and God bless from myself, Bryan Lesenko, and “The Little Man” Jayden Lesenko. Ken Lesenko
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2014 Sun Exposure Symposium
Sun Exposure Symposium Agenda & Information
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Description
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he New York Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists continues its educational series of events with its October 2014 Symposium, SUN EXPOSURE: Implications and Protection of Skin. Join academic and industry leaders on a journey through current research and development technologies, and regulatory and marketing considerations, to help us innovate our way to multi-benefit/value products that excite consumer purchase. There will be vendor sponsored tables and concurrent poster sessions. All poster entries will be eligible for the prize competition. The Sun Exposure Symposium will be held at The Pines Manor conveniently located in Edison, NJ.
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Symposium Agenda 7:45 – 8:45 a.m. Breakfast and Registration 8:45 – 9:00 a.m. Opening Remarks Steve Neidenberg (Chair, New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists) Laura A. Spaulding, Ph.D. (Chair, NYSCC Sun Exposure Symposium) 9:00 – 9:40 a.m. Studying and Assessing Human Pigmentation Nikiforos Kollias, Ph.D. (University of British Columbia, and formerly with Johnson & Johnson) 9:40 – 10:20 a.m. An Aspect of the Progression of Skin Photoaging—The Concerted Reaction of Keratinocytes, Fibroblasts, and Neutrophils Hitoshi Masaki, Ph.D. (Tokyo University of Technology, Japan) 10:20 – 10:40 a.m. Refreshment Break, Poster Session, Vendor Tables 10:40 – 11:20 a.m. A Sunscreen for the World—A Universal Challenge in Sunscreen Development John Staton (Dermatest, Pty, LLC, Australia)
11:20 a.m. – 12:00 p.m. Photostability and Photoprotection: Today and in the Future Craig Bonda (HallStar) 12:00 – 1:20 p.m. Lunch, Poster Session, Vendor Tables 1:20 – 2:00 p.m. Formulating Sun Protection Products with a Novel Hydrogel Graft Copolymer Kishore Shah, Ph.D. (Polytherapeutics, Inc.) 2:00 – 2:40 p.m. Broad Spectrum Sunscreens: Challenges and Opportunities Prithwiraj Maitra, Ph.D. (Johnson & Johnson Consumer Products) 2:40 – 3:00 p.m. Refreshment Break, Poster Session, Vendor Tables 3:00 – 3:40 p.m. Nano ZnO as a Safe, Active Ingredient in Sunscreens— The Regulatory Trajectory Steven Verberckmoes, Ph.D. (Umicore, Belgium) 3:40 – 4:20 p.m. The Sun Savvy Consumer—What’s Hot and What’s Next in Suncare Sarah Jindal (Mintel) 4:20 – 4:30 p.m. Closing Remarks Laura A. Spaulding, Ph.D. (Chair, NYSCC Sun Exposure Symposium) (Continued on page 6)
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2014 Sun Exposure Symposium
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(Continued from page 5)
Thank You to Our Voulunteers & Sponsors “Dedicated to the advancement of cosmetic science, the Society of Cosmetic Chemists strives to increase and disseminate scientific information through meetings and publications. By promoting research in cosmetic science and industry, and by setting high ethical, professional and educational standards, we reach our goal of improving the qualifications of cosmetic scientists. Our mission is to further the interests and recognition of cosmetic scientists while maintaining the confidence of the public in the cosmetic and toiletries industry.” The NYSCC takes this opportunity to expresses its gratitude to those companies whose employees volunteered much of their personal time to the success of the 2014 Sun Exposure Symposium. Without such dedicated volunteers it would be impossible to achieve the SCC’s goals and mission statement.
NYSCC Chair: Steve Neidenberg NYSCC Advisor: Steve Herman NYSCC Educational Committee Chair: Cathy Piterski (Essential Ingredients) Sun Exposure Symposium Committee: • Chair – Laura Spaulding, Ph.D. • Poster, Sponsors – Geng Li, Ph.D. (Energizer Personal Care) • Poster, Sponsors – Tao Zheng, Ph.D. (Energizer Personal Care) • Catering – Jenna Jelinski (Extracts & Ingredients) • Speakers – Yun Shao, Ph.D. (Kobo Products) • Hotel & Travel – Yelena Zolotarsky (Sensient) • Advisor – Joe Albanese (3V) • Registration – John Carola (Protameen) • Publications – Roger L. McMullen, Ph.D. (Ashland) n Poster
Competition & Prizes
The 30” width x 40” length poster entries will be judged on originality and innovation relevant to methodologies and/or the use of technologies in the sun care category. PRIZES: 1st Place: $1,500 2nd Place: 1,000 3rd Place: $500
n Registration • Online: www.nyscc.org • Prior to October 1
Members – $75 • Non-Members – $100 • Unemployed/Emeritus/Students – $0
• After October 1
Members – $100 • Non-Members – $150 • Unemployed/Emeritus/Students – $50
Poster Entry: No charge for poster, but poster presenters must pay symposium attendee fee if not sponsored. All symposium attendees will receive a filled gift bag. For registration questions, please contact John Carola at registrations@nyscc.org.
n Sponsorships • $300 includes one full registration and company logo advertisement • $600 includes one full registration, table or poster, and published abstract or ¼ page advertisement • $800 includes one full registration, table and poster, published abstract, and full-page advertisement For information regarding a vendor table or the poster session, please contact: • Tao Zheng at Tao.Zheng@energizer.com • Geng Li at Geng.Li@energizer.com • Laura Spaulding at lauraspaulding8435@gmail.com 6
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n Directions
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to Symposium: The Pines Manor
2085 Lincoln Highway, Edison NJ 08817 • (732) 287-2222
Innovation for Hair & Skin
FROM THE TURNPIKE • NJ Turnpike – To Exit 10; Follow signs to 287 North; Follow to Exit 2B (Route 27 South, New Brunswick). Bear right onto Route 27 South. Pines Manor is a half-mile on the right. FROM THE NORTH • Garden State Parkway South – To exit 129; Follow to Interstate 287 North; Follow to Exit 2B (Route 27 South, New Brunswick); Bear right onto Route 27 South; Pines Manor is a half-mile on the right. • Interstate 287 South – Follow to Exit 3 (Metuchen-New Durham); Make a right off the exit onto New croda.com/na/pc Durham Road; At the first light, make a left onto Talmadge Road; Go through the first two traffic lights and prior to the third traffic light, the side entrance of the Pines Manor will be on your left. • Route 1 South – Follow to Interstate 287 North; Follow to Exit 2B (Route 27 South, New Brunswick); Bear right onto Route 27 South; Pines Manor is a half-mile on the right. FROM THE SOUTH 1 • Garden State Parkway North – To Exit 127; Take Interstate 287 North and follow to Exit 2B (Route 27 South, New Brunswick); Bear right onto Route 27 South; Pines Manor is a half-mile on the right. • Interstate 287 North – Follow to Exit 2B (Route 27 South, New Brunswick); Bear right onto Route 27 South; Pines Manor is half-mile on the right. • Route 1 North – To the Plainfield Avenue jug handle; Cross over Route 1 and go to the second traffic light, which is Route 27 South; Make a right onto Route 27 North; Go four traffic lights; Pines Manor is approximately 1 mile on the left. FROM NEW YORK • Staten Island – Take 440 South over the Outerbridge Crossing; Route 440 South becomes Interstate 287 North; Follow to Exit 2B (Route 27 South, New Brunswick); Bear right onto Route 27 South; Pines Manor is a half-mile on the right. • New York City – Take either the George Washington Bridge, Holland Tunnel, or Lincoln Tunnel to NJ Turnpike South; Get off at Exit 10; Follow signs to Interstate 287 North; Go about two miles to Exit 2B (Route 27 South, New Brunswick); Bear right onto Route 27 South; Pines Manor is a half-mile on the right.
n Hotel
Accommodations: Crown Plaza Hotel 2055 Lincoln Highway, Edison, NJ 08817 • (732) 287-3500
To receive the discounted room rate of $135.00, please mention you are attending the “NYSCC event held at The Pines Manor.” The room rate does not include taxes. For accommodation questions, please contact Yelena Zolotarsky at yelena.zolotarsky@sensient.com. DIRECTION TO THE CROWN PLAZA HOTEL FROM THE TURNPIKE • NJ Turnpike – To Exit 10; Follow signs to 287 North; Follow to Exit 2B (Route 27 South, New Brunswick); Bear right onto Route 27 South; Pines Manor is 1 mile on the right. FROM THE NORTH • Garden State Parkway South – To exit 129; Follow to Interstate 287 North; Follow to Exit 2B (Route 27 South, New Brunswick); Bear right onto Route 27 South; Crowne Plaza is 1 mile on the right. • Interstate 287 South – Follow to Exit 3 (Metuchen-New Durham); Make a right off the exit onto New Durham Road; Travel approximately 0.2 miles to the first light; Make a left onto Talmadge Road; Travel approximately 1 mile; Crowne Plaza is on the right. • Route 1 South – Follow to Interstate 287 North; Follow to Exit 2B for Route 27 South (New Brunswick); Bear right onto Route 27 South; Crowne Plaza is 1 mile on the right. FROM THE SOUTH • Garden State Parkway North – To Exit 127; Take Interstate 287 North and follow to Exit 2B (Route 27 South, New Brunswick); Bear right onto Route 27 South; Crowne Plaza is 1 mile on the right. • Interstate 287 North – Follow to Exit 2B (Route 27 South, New Brunswick); Bear right onto Route 27 South; Crowne Plaza is 1 mile on the right. • Route 1 North from Princeton Area – Take Route 1 North to Route 18 North; Exit for Route 27 North (Highland Park); Travel approximately 5 miles; Make a left onto Municipal Boulevard; Make first right into hotel complex. V O L U M E
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2014 Sun Exposure Symposium (Continued from page 1) About the Chair Laura A. Spaulding, Ph.D. Processing Services for dry powders Fine & Ultra Fine Milling Technologies for Bases, Face Powders, and Pigments. FDA Registered. The Jet Pulverizer Co. ®
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sensiva® – multifunctional additives designed for your innovation euxyl® – optimum preservation according to your needs
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aura A. Spaulding, Ph.D. served as a Senior Principal Scientist in Innovations Research, SunCare R&D, Energizer Personal Care. She received her B.Sc. degree in Chemistry from Montclair State University. She earned her Ph.D. degree in Inorganic Chemistry from Seton Hall University, with a focus on intermolecular energy transfer and polarized luminescence spectroscopy studies of lanthanide aminocarboxylate complexes. Dr. Spaulding’s R&D career as scientist/manager includes extensive formulation experience in both consumer products and pharmaceutical industries. She worked in Discovery Research, Insecticides Research, and Household Products Group at the Shulton Research Division, and the Formulations Research and STORZ Ophthalmic Research groups at the Medical Research Division of American Cyanamid Co. Prior to working at Energizer, she conducted custom effervescent powder and tablet formulation work at Coughlan Products Corp., and worked in the Creative Applications group at the fragrance company, Noville, Inc. Innovations in diverse research fields have led to several patents, patent applications, and unique consumer product launches. As a member of the NYSCC chapter, she has co-chaired the Educational Hour (2009–2011), chaired the 2012 Sun Exposure Symposium, and currently, she is the committee chair for the 2014 Sun Exposure Symposium. _______________________________________________________________________________________
Studying and Assessing Human Pigmentation Nikiforos Kollias, Ph.D. Consultant; Adjunct Professor, Department of Dermatology, University of British Columbia; and formerly Johnson & Johnson E-mail: nik@kollias.net
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igmentation is an important attribute of humans. Over the years, a great deal of work has been done in the area of pigmentation; however, many questions still remain. In vivo, the assessment of pigmentation is performed clinically by professionals or instrumentally with devices that either approximate human perception or quantify the absorbing molecular species in the skin. Absorbers include different forms of melanin and hemoglobin as well as other chromophores that contribute to a lesser extent. When placing a population (300+) in an ordinate scale, both approaches fail, pointing to the need of an additional dimension in the objective tools. On the other hand, analysis of skin color in terms of the absorbing molecules does produce understanding of the variation observed in protected and exposed skin sites to environmental stressors, leaving the questions of depth distribution of these molecules unanswered. Pigmentation is controlled genetically (constitutive pigment) and may increase due to cellular responses to a range of injuries, ultraviolet radiation, inflammation, friction, heat, facultative pigmentation, etc. Facultative pigmentation may be classified in terms of the insult that caused the pigmentary response, especially in the early phases for UV insults. Eventually, facultative pigmentation becomes indistinguishable from constitutive pigmentation except when the process of hyperpigmentation is accompanied by structural changes in the skin. The erythema and pigment responses of the skin to solar radiation have been shown to be related to DNA damage. When epidermal melanin pigmentation is viewed at the microscopic level it shows a punctate distribution that is also modulated by the surface contours of the stratum corneum. These observations may affect how we think of epidermal melanin pigmentation as a photo-protective agent. The refractive properties of melanin pigmentation within keratinocytes have been shown to be a contrast agent in reflectance confocal microscopy in vivo. Follow-up of pigment distribution in the epidermis has proven
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a valuable tool in understanding the mosaic character of epidermal homeostasis. Thus, melanin pigmentation may be due to several types of melanin (eumelanin, pheomelanin, particulate, and soluble) and tools exist for characterizing skin responses in terms of these. Furthermore, when viewed at a microscopic level the distribution of particulate melanin has many “windows” for solar radiation due to its production and the optics of the stratum corneum, and pigment distribution may be used to assess the mosaic features of epidermal dynamics.
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About the Speaker: Dr. Nikiforos Kollias received his Ph.D. in 1971 in Low Temperature Solid State Physics from the University of Wyoming. After graduation he remained at the University of Wyoming until 1975 as a Lecturer-Laboratory Scientist. During this time he started a program of investigations in instructional systems, a program in physics training for ethnic minorities, and investigated cooperative states of biological macromolecules studied with laser light scattering. The existence of such states was confirmed by selectively producing activation of enzymatic activity with visible laser radiation where the molecules had minimal absorption. In 1975, Dr. Kollias accepted a position as Lecturer in Physics in the University of Kuwait with the mandate to start a coherent program of laboratory instruction in undergraduate physics. At this time, he started a research laboratory in Molecular Physics and collaborated with the Kuwait Institute for Scientific Research in starting up their program on solar energy research. He also directed a training program for senior teachers in physics laboratory instruction and codirected a summer program in scientific research for high ability high school students. He also developed a human photobiology laboratory in the Department of Dermatology of Al-Sabah hospital with focus on the quantitative assessment and spectroscopic characterization of photobiological reactions of normal and of abnormal (vitiligo and psoriatic) human skin, and to determine in detail the solar ultraviolet radiation at ground level. He developed optical methods of characterizing and quantifying epidermal melanin pigmentation in human skin and evaluated its photoprotective potential. The laboratory investigated the photobiological properties of Types V and VI skin and developed effective protocols for PUVA and UVB treatment of psoriasis and vitiligo. The solar UVB insolation was mathematically modeled for half hour periods over the day and the year at the latitude of Kuwait allowing for prediction of the environmental risk. In 1989, Dr. Kollias was invited to join the staff at Wellman Laboratories of Photomedicine at Massachusetts General Hospital – Harvard Medical School. His work included: a. Ultraviolet radiation effects on skin and photoprotection. b. Spectroscopy of human skin and animal models. c. Photodynamic therapy, dosimetry, and efficacy. d. Effective transfer of technology (including training of fellows) from Wellman Laboratories to other research groups within the hospital. e. Instrumental support for the Dermatology Clinical Investigations Unit. f. Development of optical methods for the assessment of trauma in the Chief Medical Examiner’s Office of Massachusetts. In 1999, Dr. Kollias joined Johnson & Johnson Consumer Products Co. to lead a group that developed methods and systems for clinical imaging, both multimodal and spectral, and to develop further methods to study the physiology of skin (from infants to the elderly). Here, he had the opportunity to study aging and photoaging, acne, and other skin conditions, and to develop microscopic methods of assessment that correlate with macroscopic (clinical) observations. Dr. Kollias retired from Johnson & Johnson in 2011.
Callahan Chemical Company
Personal Care ũŵŽďƌŝĞŶΛĐĂůĐŚĞŵ͘ĐŽŵ WŚŽŶĞ͗ ϴϬϬͲϯϯϯͲϳϳϴϰ ǁǁǁ͘ĐĂůĐŚĞŵ͘ĐŽŵ
(Continued on page 10)
A t t e n t i o n
M e m b e r s
Unemployed and Emeritus members may continue to attend monthly meetings free of charge. Please contact the registration booth upon arrival. Unemployed members may also continue their membership free of charge by submitting the renewal form with unemployment details. Please remember that the SCC Employment Service is here to assist you. Contact: Jason O’Neill • E-Mail: Jason.Oneil@kemin.com
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2014 Sun Exposure Symposium (Continued from page 9) An Aspect of the Pogression of Skin Photoaging – The Concerted Reaction of Keratinocytes, Fibroblasts, and Neutrophils Hitoshi Masaki, Ph.D. Professor, School of Bioscience & Technology, Tokyo University of Technology, Tokyo, Japan E-mail: masaki3325dream@gmail.com
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hotoaged skin, which is accelerated by chronic exposure to sunlight, is characterized by deep wrinkles and age spots, also called solar lentigos. The contribution of UVA to the progression of skin photoaging is commonly understood, because of its penetration into deep skin regions and the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS). As human beings, we are aware of being exposed to the UVB in sunlight due to erythema formation. However, UVA exposure is hard to recognize since it does not cause distinct changes of the skin surface. Therefore, UVA exposureaccelerates changes in dermal structure and eventually results in the formation of photoaged skin. Thus, the cosmetic industry strongly advocates the importance of daily protection against UVA. Alterations of the dermal matrix structure is a major reason for wrinkle formation. There are several theories to explain this. One theory is that fibroblasts exposed to UVA secrete MMP-1 through an autocrine loop of IL-1 and IL-6 initiated by singlet oxygen. Another theory is that UV exposed fibroblasts increase MMP-1 production and decrease collagen synthesis due to AP-1 formation initiated by ROS. In addition, environmental changes surrounding fibroblasts affect their morphologies and functions. Also, decreases of a collagen receptor, Endo180, which helps the digestion of damaged collagen by lysosomes through internalization of the fragments, suggests a lower capability for self-reconstruction of the collagen matrix. Thus, the mechanism of wrinkle formation has been well studied, focusing on changes of dermal fibroblasts. However, recent studies have demonstrated that epidermal keratinocytes and neutrophils are also directly/indirectly involved in dermal dysfunction (a type of cross-talk) in photoaged skin. In this presentation, I discuss the mechanism of wrinkle formation as a concerted reaction of keratinocytes, fibroblasts, and neutrophils.
About the Speaker: Dr. Hitoshi Masaki is a professor in an advanced cosmetic course in the School of Bioscience and Biotechnology at Tokyo University of Technology, Tokyo, Japan. He received his Ph.D. in Pharmacology at the Kyoto Pharmaceutical University in 1995. He worked in the Cosmetic Industry for 30 years. His research interests are cellular photobiology in relation to anti-aging and pigmentation, and skin physiology under dry conditions. He is a member of the Cosmetic Chemistry Society of Japan, the Society of Japanese Cosmetic Science, and the Society of Japanese Photoaging Research. He is also a member of the Japanese Dermatological Association, the Japanese Society for Investigative Dermatology, the Pharmaceutical Society of Japan, and the Academy of Pharmaceutical Science and Technology of Japan. 10
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A Sunscreen for the World – A Universal Challenge in Sunscreen Development ®
John Staton Director, Dermatest, Pty, LLC, Rockdale, Australia E-mail: john@dermatest.com.au
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n the last decade, there have been several SPF and UVA test methods and regulatory protocols to contend with for sunscreen products. However, recent changes (ISO, FDA final rule) and a general move towards international harmonization seem to have given us the opportunity to attempt to rationalize sunscreen development. All aspects of compliance will be discussed from the viewpoint of the new product developer. We will review the current status of test methods and regulations, and identify their respective challenges. This presentation will also attempt to navigate a pathway through the challenge of a “one product fits all” approach to sunscreen product development.
Specialty Silicones t Specialty Esters Delivery Systems Skin & Hair Moisture Complexes EXSYMOL S.A.M.: Silanols t Peptides GELYMA: Marine Cell Actives 201-825-8800 t www.biosiltech.com
About the Speaker: John Staton comes from a background of over 45 years experience in the pharmaceutical and health care industries. He spent over 15 years with Soul Pattinson Laboratories, the manufacturing arm of a large retail, wholesale, and pharmaceutical manufacturing group, serving in various technical roles. He was also Operations Manager of Cenovis, now a division of Mayne, for 7 years. John left his final position as General Manager of Soul Pattinson Laboratories to become a consultant to industry where he has spent the last 16 years. John is a Past President and Life Member of Australian Society of Cosmetic Chemists. He serves on a number of industry representative roles with ASMI, ACCORD, and Standards Australia. John is a founding Director of two consultancy companies: Technical Consultancy Services, who provides new product development, and Dermatest, one of only two laboratories in Australia who are recognized by Standards Australia for conducting SPF testing. Dermatest has been performing SPF testing, skin efficacy, and safety evaluation studies continuously since 1997. He is currently Australian Head Delegate representative to the ISO Committee on Sunscreen Testing under ISO Technical Committee 217 – Cosmetics and Chair of the ISO Working Group on Water Resistance. _______________________________________________________________________________________
Photostability and Photoprotection: Today and in the Future Craig Bonda Research Fellow, The HallStar Company, Chicago, IL E-mail: cbonda@hallstar.com
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opical products that contain UV-absorbing ingredients (such as sunscreens and some skin care products) are photochemical systems, and to some extent the physical laws embodied in the science of photochemistry govern their behavior. This presentation begins with a survey of the global regulatory environment for sunscreens, and then seeks to provide a basic understanding of key aspects of photochemistry and photostability. This knowledge is then applied to sunscreens and anti-aging products that contain popular ingredients such as avobenzone (butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane) and retinol. The presentation will end with a discussion of current trends in photoprotection. Topics included: • Regulatory aspects of sunscreen products • Survey of testing, labeling, and performance requirements in 57 countries • New U.S. rules (Continued on page 12)
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• Basic photochemistry • Photon absorption, excited states, and deactivation pathways • Electronic and spin configurations • Excited state quenching • Photostabilizing UV filters: avobenzone • Avobenzone photochemistry • Photostabilizing anti-aging actives: retinol • Retinol biology and photochemistry • Trends in photoprotection (marketing, technology, and therapeutic)
™ Nature’s Science. Our Technology. Your Beauty.
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About the Speaker: Craig Bonda has been with Chicago-based HallStar (formerly C.P. Hall) for almost 19 years, and currently holds the position of Research Fellow. Before joining HallStar, he was president of Midwest Biotech, a developer of clinical diagnostic chemistries, and prior to that, founder and president of American Diagnostics, Inc., a developer and marketer of medical diagnostic tests for the consumer market. Earlier in his career, Mr. Bonda spent many years in the advertising agency business, creating and executing advertising and marketing campaigns for marketers of consumer products and services. He attended Washington University, Jacksonville University, and University College of Northwestern University. Mr. Bonda’s research interests are in the areas of photoprotection and photostability, and have led to over 50 U.S. patents and dozens of international patents covering compounds, methods, and compositions for personal care applications. Several more patents are pending. He is the first named inventor of butyloctyl salicylate (HallBrite® BHB), diethylhexyl-2,6-naphthalate (Corapan® TQ), ethylhexyl methoxycrylene (SolaStay® S1), and other patented technologies that are in use today in sun and skin care products around the world. Mr. Bonda is a frequent speaker at technical meetings and symposia, and is the author of numerous articles in technical journals, as well as a chapter on the photostability of organic sunscreen actives in Sunscreens, 3rd edition. He has twice received the Best Paper Award for presentations given at the Society of Cosmetic Chemist’s Annual Scientific Meeting. _______________________________________________________________________________________
Formulating Sun Protection Products with a Novel Hydrogel Graft Copolymer Kishore R. Shah, Ph.D. President, Polytherapeutics, Inc., Bridgewater, NJ E-mail: krshah@polytherapeutics.com
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ilm forming polymers are used in products for protection of skin from harmful ultraviolet A and B radiation of sunlight. Examples of such polymers include polyurethane-3,4-methyl cellulose, styrene/acrylate copolymer, and a polysaccharide with the INCI name galactoarabinan. The polymer film allows uniform distribution of the UV filters and photostabilizers on skin thereby providing more efficient and effective sun protection of skin. We now report use of a novel hydrogel graft copolymer, having the INCI name dimethylacrylamide/acrylic acid/polystyrene ethylmethacrylate copolymer (PD copolymer), in formulation of sun protection products. PD copolymer is used as a delivery system for actives in skin care, dermatological products, and transdermal drug delivery product applications. When a dermatological vehicle, e.g., a cream, lotion, or gel, formulated with PD copolymer, is applied to skin, it forms an imperceptible and invisible hydrogel film, “A Virtual Patch.” It is characterized by excellent bioadhesion to skin and diffusion controlled release of actives. The copolymer Virtual Patch does not exhibit flaking or skin stretchiness, and is retained on skin for 24+ hours until it is washed away with soap and water. PD copolymer forms polymeric
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micelles in aqueous solutions, and as a result it helps to stabilize dispersions and emulsions. Use levels of the PD copolymer in sun protection and other cosmetic products ranges from 1 to 1.5% (w/w). Solutions, gels, or emulsions formulated with PD copolymer exhibit very desirable sensory attributes, including silky feel, both as a liquid and a dried film on skin. These properties, along with the formation of a long lasting Virtual Patch on skin, make it an attractive polymer for use in the formulation of sun protection products. Two specific sunscreen formulations, comprising PD copolymer, will be presented as prototype product examples. One of them was formulated by emulsifying an oil phase comprising a solution of 3,3,5trimethylcyclohexyl salicylate (homosalate), ethylhexyl methoxycrylene (avobenzone), octyl salicylate (octisalate), and 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl-2-propenoate (octocrylene) in C12-C15 benzoate in an aqueous phase. A proprietary blend of sucrose esters, fatty alcohols, and vegetal sterol was used as an emulsifying agent. Emulsification occurs through the formation of a liquid crystal network. PD copolymer (1% w/w) was then incorporated in the emulsion as a 10% aqueous solution. The resultant emulsion had a consistency of a lotion, which spread easily and uniformly on skin to form a smooth and clear film. Details of the formulation and its properties will be presented. The second sunscreen prototype was prepared as a high internal phase water-in-oil type emulsion. The oil phase comprised of a solution of octisalate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate (octinoxate), cetearyl alcohol, and polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate/polyhydroxystearate/sebacate in C12-C15 alkyl benzoate. The internal phase comprised of a solution of PD copolymer, glycerin, and sodium chloride in water. Micronized zinc oxide (15% w/w) was then dispersed in the emulsion to form a creamy product. It spread smoothly on skin to form a uniform and clear film without any haziness or opacity. Details of the formulation and its properties will be presented.
About the Speaker: Dr. Kishore R. Shah is the President of Polytherapeutics, Inc. He received his doctoral degree in Organic Chemistry from University of Maryland, College Park, MD. He is the inventor of the patented PharmaDur® polymer technology for delivery of actives to skin and mucosa. PharmaDur® polymer is commercially utilized in 2 Rx dermatological products and more than 15 cosmetic products. One of his recent developments is in the field of transdermal drug delivery utilizing the PharmaDur® technology to provide long lasting local and/or systemic therapeutic activity of drugs. He has over 25 years of research experience in the medical device and pharmaceutical industry, including BristolMyers Squibb and Johnson & Johnson. His technical expertise includes development of polymeric biomaterials, their applications, and controlled drug delivery technologies. He is an author or coauthor of more than 45 patents and technical publications, several of which are in the field of transdermal drug delivery. _______________________________________________________________________________________
Broad Spectrum Sunscreens: Challenges and Opportunities Prithwiraj Maitra, Ph.D. Manager, Fellow, Skin Care Innovation Platform, Johnson & Johnson, Skillman, NJ E-mail: pmaitra@its.jnj.com
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unscreens are an important product category not only in the beauty category, but also address public health concerns. More than 90% of the visible changes commonly attributed to skin aging are caused by the sun. People who use sunscreen daily show 24% less skin aging than those who do not use sunscreen daily. Regular daily use of sunscreen reduces the risk of developing squamous cell carcinoma by 40% and the risk of developing melanoma by 50%. This presentation will provide fundamental understanding of sun filters and their mechanism of action. The presentation will focus on criteria for broadspectrum sunscreens and their implications in everyday protection. We will also highlight benefits of high SPF sunscreens and will address current myths about sunscreens. In addition, sun exposure behavior and consumer habits will also be discussed.
About the Speaker: Prithwiraj Maitra, Ph.D. is currently an R&D Manager & Fellow in the Skin Care Innovation Platform at (Continued on page 14)
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Johnson and Johnson Research and Development in Skillman NJ. Prithwiraj is responsible for defining strategy and driving upstream technology development for sun care to fuel J&J’s global sun care innovation portfolio for Neutrogena, Roc, Sundown, and Piz Buin. He has held several roles in product development at J&J and partnered with marketing to translate concepts into product formulations to deliver key claims and consumer needs for multiple J&J skin care brands, including Johnson’s, Neutrogena, Clean and Clear, Aveeno, and RoC. Dr. Maitra’s expertise includes driving innovation through external collaborations; material science; the structure-function relationship of ingredients and formulations; and optical science, color, and appearance of personal care products. Notably, he was the recipient of Avon’s Global R&D Achievement Award in 2007 and 2009, and recipient of the Most Innovative Scientist Award for Neutrogena Cosmetics in 2010. Prithwiraj received a Ph.D. from Temple University and is the author of several peer-reviewed journal articles. In addition, Prithwiraj holds 9 granted patents and over 20 pending applications. _______________________________________________________________________________________
Nano-ZnO as a Safe, Active Ingredient in Sunscreens – The Regulatory Trajectory Steven Verberckmoes, ERT, Ph.D. Toxicologist, Umicore Group Research & Development, Olen, Belgium E-mail: Steven.Verberckmoes@eu.umicore.com
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norganic UV filters such as titanium dioxide (TiO2) and zinc oxide (ZnO) have a long history of use as active ingredients in sunscreens. In their micron-sized form these minerals offer UV protection mainly by scattering and reflecting light, inherently whitening the skin upon application. In contrast to this, the nanoforms of these products not only offer a higher efficiency in UV protection (higher sun protection factor), they also appear as transparent on the skin, addressing the esthetic issue of the whitening of skin. Due to these properties and higher performance, there is an increasing interest from both industry and regulators in nano-based sunscreens. Simultaneously, controversy on the safety aspects of nano-materials in cosmetic applications is being kept alive by several stakeholders putting pressure on the industry and the authorities to take responsibility and to regulate the safe use of nano-materials. In response to this, both TiO2 and ZnO have been approved as cosmetic and UV protective ingredients in most countries and regions in the world. Some regulations include specific approval of these filters in the nano-form, whereas other regulations do not make a specific distinction. The European approval of nano- and non-nano-ZnO as an active UV filter in cosmetics is currently pending and will be based on the evaluation of an extensive hazard and risk assessment dossier prepared by Cosmetics Europe (Colipa). This dossier covers micron- and nano-sized ZnO, in both coated and uncoated form. The assessment focuses on a wide range of toxicological endpoints, including toxicokinetics and long-term effects. The key message derived from this comparative data set is that both micron- and nano-sized ZnO, whether coated or not, are safe for use as (topical) sunscreen ingredients. Furthermore, no specific health concern for the nano-form of ZnO can be identified. These findings have been confirmed by the EU Scientific Committee for Consumer Safety (SCCS). The worldwide regulatory landscape shows some divergence, but in the end it is anticipated that approval for these applications and safe use is warranted globally.
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About the Speaker: Dr. Steven Verberckmoes completed his studies in biochemical engineering in 1997 and continued on to obtain a Ph.D. in medical sciences at the University of Antwerp in 2005 where he investigated the effect of strontium on bone development and mineralization. From 2005–2008, he took the position as postdoctoral researcher at the University of Antwerp in the Department of Pathophysiology focusing on the topic of characterization of the mineral phase of various calcified tissues. Since 2008 Steven joined Umicore as a toxicologist in the central R&D organization where he is involved in the scientific development of regulatory dossiers of (metal-containing) chemicals. In this role he is part of the scientific working groups several REACH metal consortia and technical working groups of Eurometaux. Next to this he is closely involved in the follow-up of the regulatory developments on nano-materials. He is successfully registered at the European Toxicology Registry of Eurotox in 2010, and is a member of the steering committee of the Belgian Toxicology Society, Beltox. _______________________________________________________________________________________
BOTANICAL EMOLLIENTS & SPECIALTY PARTICLES
24/7 Online Ingredient Information:
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Label The Natural Solution i
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In the New York SCC Region:
Essential Ingredients Michael Manning 201.576.9382 mmanning@essentialingredients.com
The Sun Savvy Consumer – What’s Hot and What’s Next in Sun Care Sarah Jindal Senior Innovations & Insights Analyst, Mintel Group Ltd., New York, NY E-mail: sjindal@mintel.com
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he U.S. market for sun care is the largest in the world (US $1.5 billion), mainly driven by fear of skin cancer and premature skin ageing. The sun care category has performed well in the last five years despite the economic background, with forecast growth of 3.2% in the U.S. in 2013 and almost 4% in Canada. Higher awareness of skin protection and skin cancer has contributed to this growth. The desire for protection and new sun care regulations make North American consumers look for products that promise efficacy. Long lasting formulations are therefore more numerous in North America than in any other region. The boundary between the skin care and the sun care categories is becoming increasingly blurred, with each borrowing more extensively from the other. Many sun protection products now incorporate anti-ageing, antioxidant, and skin nourishing ingredients as well as offering DNA protection. This presentation will review the latest consumer insights, hottest innovation, and most exciting trends in the sun care category in the U.S. and beyond.
About the Speaker: Sarah Jindal is a Senior Innovation and Insights Analyst at Mintel, who regularly interfaces with key beauty clients and lends her expertise based on over 16 years of experience developing ingredient technologies for beauty and personal care. Sarah’s roles in both marketing and product development covered all beauty and personal care categories with a focus on skin care and active ingredients. Having worked for a variety of companies over her career, Sarah has gained an in-depth understanding of the industry and draws upon not only her work experience but also degrees in Biology, Biochemistry, and Evolutionary Biology.
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# $" (Continued from page 15) % # 2014 Sun Exposure Symposium: Poster Session POSTER TECHNOLOGY SESSION ABSTRACTS " #$! & Developments in Ingredients for
Sun Protection Applications
Akzo Nobel Surface Chemistry
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Akzo Nobel, Bridgewater, NJ onsumers are increasingly concerned about the effects of UV radiation on the skin, and the use of sun protection products has expanded accordingly. Demand for UV protection has made sun care the fastest growing personal care sector with global retail sales expected to reach US $9.35 billion in 2013. Today’s products require high SPF (Sun Protection Factor) values, broad-spectrum protection, enhanced water resistance, and rub-off resistance. In addition, consumers demand more aesthetically pleasing products that feature convenience and ease of use. Achieving product performance without increasing the level of active ingredients and providing water resistance in product forms, including alcohol-based aerosol sprays and non-aerosol pump sprays, has created formulating challenges. New ingredients, including film-forming polymers, rheology control agents, and aesthetic enhancers enable the development of sun protection products that feature enhanced SPF, reduced active content, and consumer-preferred aesthetics. New ingredients designed for use in ethanol-based products and emulsion systems will be showcased. They enable formulators to create innovative and highly effective sun care products meeting the range of global requirements and the unique and individual needs of the consumer.
Company name: Akzo Nobel Surface Chemistry Contact name: Laurie J. Marshall E-mail address: laurie.marshall@akzonobel.com _______________________________________________________________________________________
High Active Broad Spectrum Physical Dispersions Simplify Natural Sunscreen Formulation Applechem, Inc. Applechem, Inc., Fairfield, NJ he key to a good natural sunscreen formulation involves a delicate balancing act between satisfactory transparency, an acceptable sensory profile, strong stability, and consistent SPF levels, all while meeting global regulations for broad spectrum labeling and for “natural sunscreenâ€? criteria. Finding the right raw materials can be a challenge. While using pure zinc oxide or titanium dioxide powder can lower initial sourcing costs, it can also increase processing cost and development time as high levels of UV-grade powder can be difficult to disperse homogeneously. On the other hand, the typical ZnO and TiO2 dispersions themselves can be prone to settlement, leading to inconsistent SPF and critical wavelength results from batch to batch. The typical active level in these dispersions can adversely impact sensory due to the high dispersing solvent content. Applechem has addressed these challenges by creating the G-Block™ product line—a set of UV-grade physical dispersions that combine very high active content, impressive stability, and great transparency while meeting global regulatory requirements for broad spectrum natural sunscreen. Applechem focused on boosting these specific set of characteristics in order to create a reliable, user-friendly dispersion that greatly simplifies the natural sunscreen formulation process. G-Block’s high active loading creates more formulation space for sensory adjustment, while the stability allows for unrivaled SPF/critical wavelength consistency from batch to batch as well as scale-up from lab to plant. Moreover, this consistency allows for reliable projections of SPF and critical wavelength numbers before the formulation process even begins, dramatically cutting down development times and testing costs. G-Block is approved by both the Natural Product Association as well as Ecocert, while also meeting the FDA, European, and Australian regulations concerning broad spectrum labeling.
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Company name: Applechem, Inc Contact name: Samuel Lin, Ph.D. E-mail address: Samuel.Lin@applechem.com
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Ashland’s HydroSheer Technology for Anhydrous Sunscreen Sprays Application
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Ashland Specialty Ingredients
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Ashland Specialty Ingredients, Bridgewater, NJ he anhydrous sunscreen spray market is significant in the U.S. Formulators outside of the U.S. are beginning to take interest in this segment. However, typical formulations do not apply clear on wet skin, in fact the application appears milky. This milky appearance does not form a uniform film and may reduce the protection from UV rays. A typical anhydrous spray formulation contains the sunscreen active ingredients, esters to solubilize the actives and to assist with the aesthetics, and ethanol as a carrier. The whitening effect during application on wet skin is the result of mixing a product that is hydrophobic with water, thus creating an emulsion. Ashland developed the HydroSheer technology to address this problem. In our presentation, we will discuss how our HydroSheer technology works by using the dielectric constant of the esters to bridge the hydrophobic and hydrophilic gap of oil and water. Additionally, these spray products also form an undesirable shiny film when applied to the skin. We will present data on our Advantage Plus polymer (VA/butyl maleate/isobornyl acrylate copolymer), which reduces shine and also imparts water resistance and SPF boosting to the formulation.
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Company name: Ashland Specialty Ingredients Contact name: Donald Prettypaul E-mail address: DPrettypaul@ashland.com _______________________________________________________________________________________
Comparison of Reactive Oxygen Species Generation by Different Zinc Oxides Jochen Giesinger*, Marion Chambert*, and Marc N.G. De Mul† *BASF Grenzach GmbH, 79639 Grenzach-Wyhlen, Germany †BASF Corporation, 500 White Plains Road, Tarrytown NY 10591, USA inc oxide remains a mainstay of sunscreens, particularly in the U.S., where the number of available sunscreen ingredients filtering light in the UVA region is severely limited. Particularly in sensitive skin, baby products, and tear-free applications, mineral oxides such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are preferred UV filters. However, it is recognized that submicron and nano-sized mineral oxides can be photoactive and generate reactive oxygen species (ROS) when exposed to sunlight. A number of studies have investigated the dependence of the photo-activity on mineral oxide particle size, surface coating, and sunscreen formulation. In this study we examined the photocatalytic activity of ten zinc oxide materials commercially available from five manufacturers. These materials included coated and uncoated grades as well as different particle sizes. We used a TBARS test to evaluate the photo-activity in a model sunscreen formulation and a method based on oxidation of a dye to evaluate it in aqueous dispersion. Finally, we measured the oxidation of a photosensitive sunscreen (butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, BMDM) in the presence of zinc oxides of different particle sizes and surface coatings. Our results indicate that the zinc oxides we examined all exhibited photo-catalytic activity to some extent. However, we did not observe a consistent dependence on either particle size or surface coating in any of the three tests. _______________________________________________________________________________________
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Aristoflex Rheology Modifiers Deliver Exceptional Benefits for Sun Care Clariant Corporation Clariant Corporation, Fair Lawn, NJ lariant’s Aristoflex rheology modifiers are based on patented polymer chemistry and offer exceptional sensory benefits, novel textures, improved formulation stability, and SPF improvement. All polymers in the Aristoflex line are pre-neutralized for easy and flexible processing. They are suitable for a wide range of applications such as aqueous gels, hydroalcoholic gels, cream gels, and emulsions, making them ideal for use in sun care. A variety of sensorial profiles can be realized with Aristoflex polymers, ranging from light and fresh to
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2014 Sun Exposure Symposium: Poster Session
"OT A NE S S E NT I A L 2234 .AT UR AL !NT I /XI DANT #OMPL E X
) MPR OVE ME NT I N /XI DAT I VE 0R OT E C T I ON s s .A T UR A L %X T R A C T #O MPL E X ,O W /DO R s &R E E O F 3 Y NT HE T I C ) NG R E DI E NT S s ,O W #O L O R
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substantive and conditioning. The breakdown and “play-time� achieved with each polymer differs depending upon its salt tolerance. Polymers with increased salt tolerance tend to have a slower breakdown on skin, whereas those with less salt tolerance tend to absorb quickly. In addition, Aristoflex polymers can create a variety of textures in emulsions, ranging from light and airy lotions to rich and buttery creams. Rheology modifiers have the primary function of improving formulation viscosity and imparting longterm stability. Aristoflex polymers provide excellent yield value, delivering superior formulation stability even in the absence of traditional emulsifiers. Hydrophobically modified Aristoflex polymers are able to function as primary emulsifiers in cream gel formulations, since they are capable of stabilizing increased concentrations of oils and silicones. This allows for the formulation of sun care products without emulsifiers, leading to novel formulation characteristics. The cross-linking of Aristoflex polymers provides high yield in formulations at low use concentration. This allows the polymers to stabilize inorganic UV filters, such as ZnO and TiO2. In addition, Aristoflex polymers have been shown to improve the SPF of sun care formulations when tested in vivo. The effect of various polymers on SPF has been studied in a model formulation using the international SPF test method according to Colipa 2006 (in vivo). Sunscreen formulations with Aristoflex showed significant improvement in SPF, in comparison to other rheology modifiers available on the market. New formulation challenges arise daily as consumers begin to have greater expectations of their sun care products. Many of these challenges can be resolved through innovative product development using the Aristoflex polymer line. Company name: Clariant Corporation Contact name: Jennie Kravchenko E-mail address: Jennie.Kravchenko@clariant.com _______________________________________________________________________________________
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Choosing an Expected SPF Value John R. Sica and Michael Caswell, Ph.D. Consumer Product Testing Company, Inc., Fairfield, NJ
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un Protection Factor, SPF, is a measure of the efficacy of a topical sunscreen product. The higher the SPF, the greater the protection is against UV-induced erythema. While there are several methods to determine SPF, the FDA methods are unique. The FDA methods define the label SPF value as the largest whole integer after subtracting an “A� value from the mean SPF. The “A� value, composed of the product of the upper 5% point of the t-distribution and the standard deviation, divided by √(n), where n equals the number of subjects, has a significant impact on the label SPF value. Two examples explore this impact. Development of strategies to mitigate the impact of “A� using expected SPF values are explored using historical clinical trial data. A more enlightened choice of expected SPF values is shown to lead to higher label SPF values. _______________________________________________________________________________________
SOLAVEIL™ Sensation: Create Inorganic Sunscreens with Sensation Feel Croda, Inc. Croda, Inc., Edison, NJ
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t is now possible to create inorganic sunscreens that meet the new broad-spectrum criteria, and deliver truly sensational skin feel that consumers are seeking. SOLAVEIL ST-100 (INCI: C12-15 alkyl benzoate (and) titanium dioxide (and) polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate (and) silica (and) stearic acid (and) aminopropyl triethoxysilane) is a uniquely coated titanium dioxide dispersion that combines optimum UV performance with enhanced aesthetics, enabling the formulation of sensationally light and luxurious UV protection products. Spectrum Skinfeel Descriptive Anlaysis (SDA) methodology (Sensory Spectrum Inc., New Providence, NJ) was used to qualify the sensorial effects of the innovative silane coating. SDA was also used to compare a broad-spectrum formulation, using the combination of SOLAVEIL ST-100 and SOLAVEIL CZ-100, to a commercial, European market leading product. The two formulations were found to have comparable aesthetics, especially to consumers. The broad-spectrum combination of SOLAVEIL ST-100, with its sensational skin feel, and SOLAVEIL CZ-100, with high UVA coverage of zinc oxide, create light feeling inorganic sunscreens.
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Company name: Croda, Inc. Contact name: Jennifer C. Donahue E-mail address: Jennifer.Donahue@croda.com _______________________________________________________________________________________
PTFE Additives for Personal Care Products
Beauty is More Than Skin Deep
Sensing the Future—Modern Sun Protection Beyond the SPF Game Dr. Juergen Vollhardt, Dr. Jochen Klock, and Manal Sarris DSM, Heerlen, The Netherlands
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s sunscreen researchers, we can perfectly execute the technical aspects of a formulation insuring high SPF, broad-spectrum protection, photostability of ingredients, and emulsion homogeneity. Though an admirable effort, this execution does not protect our consumer from UV exposure. Without consumer compliance there can be no protection. How beneficial is high SPF, if the consumer application behavior does not meet minimum recommended dosage? How effective can a beachwear formulation be if it makes the consumer feel like a sand magnet? How can we formulate daily wear that protects against cumulative sub-erythemal damage without addressing the greasiness and stickiness consumers associate with sunscreens? How can we insure protection of all ethnicities by taking into account the whitening and graying parameters of formulations and their social stigmas? To answer these questions, is to truly deliver Ultimate UV Protection. This research was conducted in three phases. The first phase utilized DSM’s unique consumer insights approach. This rigorous process reaches beyond generic surface facts and figures, and into the intricate mind of the consumer. Providing firsthand knowledge of the negative factors associated with sunscreens, the work consisted of consumer focus groups and a large online community assessment; determination of SPF values most preferred by consumers on holiday; and a ranking of the sensory attributes where consumers seek the most improvement. During the second phase, DSM established an Expert Sensory Panel trained on the robust methodology developed by Sensory Spectrum, the company that first pioneered the field of the sensory-consumer experience. This scientific methodology is based on an objective sensory rating for various chassis parameters and insures a quantitative, reproducible, and unbiased baseline. This baseline is then utilized to drive sensory features into the right direction, and with the right magnitude. This objective approach resulted in an incredible mapping of more than 100 leading global sunscreen products, and provides an incomparable databank for brands wishing to develop blockbuster products. With a focus on insights uncovered during the first phase, and sensorial gaps outlined in the second phase, the third phase focused on the development of formulations surpassing market benchmarks by eliminating negative chassis attributes, meeting high waterresistance testing, and substantiating novel market claims.
shamrocktechnologies.com
Rhodia is now Solvay Still offering exceptional products & service New Products Miracare® GBC The clear choice for tear-free, Ethoxylate-free baby cleansing
Rheomer® 33T Higher clarity suspending polymer Contact: 888-776-7337 NovecareCC@Solvay.com
Company name: DSM Contact name: Manal Sarris E-mail address: Manal.Sarris@dsm.com _______________________________________________________________________________________
Enhancing Titanium Dioxide Performance in Sunscreen Formulations EMD Chemicals EMD Chemicals, Philadelphia, PA
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igh SPF inorganic sunscreens are typically formulated with micronized titanium dioxide or zinc oxide. They frequently exhibit a pasty consistency with an undesirable opacity when applied to skin. A variety of micronized inorganic UV filters with different coatings exist. This poster shows that it is possible to formulate elegant titanium dioxide based sunscreens with high SPF, meeting the broad-spectrum FDA requirements. This was accomplished using micronized titanium dioxide with appropriate coatings permitting easy processing, long-term stability, as well as texture and sensorial esthetics. We will present emulsion type sunscreens and resulting SPF/Critical Wavelengths as tested following the current FDA sunscreen monograph. Company name: EMD Chemicals Contact name: Greg Malara E-mail address: Greg.Malara@EMDmillipore.com (Continued on page 20)
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2014 Sun Exposure Symposium: Poster Session (Continued from page 19) Micro-Dispersed Calcium Hydroxyapatite (Apalight) as an Effective and Safe SPF Booster with Anti-Aging Properties Dr. Guglielmo Bifulco* and David Fondots† *Kalichem Italia, Botticino Brescia, Italy †Extracts & Ingredients Ltd, Union, NJ
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palight (INCI: hydroxyapatite) is a new skin-friendly micro-dispersed mineral active from Kalichem Italia exhibiting SPF boosting activity and soft focus effects. Studies: Apalight powder was incorporated into three Colipa type formulas containing organic sunscreens. A comparison of the SPF boosting effects with titanium dioxide was made in SPF 15, 30, and 50 sunscreen formulas. In addition, clinical observations were made on the apparent wrinkle-reducing activity of the calcium hydroxyapatite. Studies were performed in vivo. Results: Apalight as a micro-dispersed powder (<100 µm) exhibited higher SPF by as much as 18% compared to titanium dioxide. Improvements were observed over titanium dioxide for all three sunscreen formulations. Skin roughness, elasticity, and soft focus were significantly improved. The use of Apalight (calcium hydroxyapatite) in sun care applications: • It is able to enhance UV protection. • Its performance is better than titanium dioxide. • No blue-white appearance. • Better texture than titanium dioxide. • Anti-aging effects: elasticity, wrinkles, and roughness. The use of Apalight (calcium hydroxyapatite) in skin care applications: • Decreases skin roughness. • Increases skin elasticity. • Decreases viscoelasticity ratio. • Soft focus effect. _______________________________________________________________________________________
The Sun Protection Factor Methods Harmonization: A Long and Winding Road Christophe Courbière, Pharm.D. and Frédéric Nunzi, Ph.D. Idea Tests, Martillac, France
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un protection is one of the areas of high priority within consumer safety provision. Due to the increased globalization of trade in goods and movement of people, and although most governing bodies have effective regulations regarding sunscreen products, it is critical to harmonize the various guidelines from different countries in order to provide consumers with accurate and consistent information wherever their location on Earth. The publication of ISO Standards for determining protection factor for sunscreen products and the new FDA final rule marked an important step. Therefore, consumers have now roughly the same information regardless of where they are located or traveling in the world. This is undoubtedly a guarantee of security. However, there are still some differences within the technical procedures in the different guidelines that require manufacturers to perform each guideline separately for the same product if they want to sell it in different countries, e.g., in Europe and the U.S. As a result the cost of product development increases accordingly as well as the number of volunteers used, which raises a serious ethical issue. Our aim is therefore to highlight these differences and propose some solutions to overcome them. _______________________________________________________________________________________
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SunBoost® ATB – SPF Booster with Antioxidant Benefits Kobo Products, Inc. Kobo Products, Inc., South Plainfield, NJ
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t has become widely accepted by consumers that antioxidants can protect against free radicals and cellular damage. The demand for antioxidantfortified products is projected to increase by 8.5%–10.0% annually. The goal of this study is to create an antioxidant ‘cocktail’ that can substantially boost UV protection efficacy of sunscreen formulations. In the first part of the study, a variety of antioxidants were selected and their stability in presence of micro-TiO2 was tested. Most antioxidants discolored either immediately or after a period of incubation. Stable antioxidants were selected for the continued study. In the second part of the study, combinations of antioxidants, anti-irritant agents, and anti-inflammatory agents were designed to maximize their UV protection boosting power. A mixture (SunBoost® ATB) of argan oil, tocopheryl acetate, and bisabolol at a proprietary ratio was tested in sunscreen lotions containing the organic, inorganic, or organic/inorganic actives, respectively. In vivo testing showed that SPF was boosted 30% or more for all formulations tested. Moreover, the same level of boosting effect was observed for in vivo UVA protection (PFA). For ease of use, SunBoost® ATB was incorporated into a highly transparent TiO2 dispersion. This TiO2 dispersion was found to be able to provide up to 4.5 SPF units for each percent of TiO2 in sunscreen formulation while delivering all the benefits of the antioxidants. SunBoost® ATB-Natural is an Ecocert certified version intended for natural formulations. Company name: Kobo Products, Inc. Contact name: Yun Shao, Ph.D. E-mail address: YShao@koboproductsinc.com _______________________________________________________________________________________
Sun Screens Skin Cancer Prevention Assessment Beyond SPF and UVA-PF- Insights to Utilizing Proteomics Nava Dayan, Ph.D.* and Matt Kuruc† *Dr. Nava Dayan LLC, Fair Lawn, NJ †Biotech Support Group LLC, Monmouth Junction, NJ
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he efficacy of sunscreens is evaluated by their ability to absorb UVB/UVA radiation, SPF testing, and assessment of persistent pigment darkening (PPD-UVA-PF). These methodologies assess physical absorption, generation of clinical erythema, and melanin production, respectively. While these methods have been used for years and are accepted by industry and regulatory authorities, the correlation between these end points and the ultimate purpose of sunscreens in skin cancer prevention remains unclear. Therefore, it is sensible that the assessment of sunscreen efficacy include the study of early indicative biomarkers that correlate with skin cancer. Numerous attempts have been made towards these goals, with some success pointed towards isolated protein biomarkers and their applicability to direct sun exposure and the efficacy of sunscreens. An example of such a biomarker is p53, a tumor suppressor protein. However, due to the complexity of cancer initiation and the time scale necessary to evaluate such markers, a more comprehensive biomarker panel may be of value. Recent advances in proteomics opens a new era of opportunities to further develop unbiased approaches to biomarker discovery. New models that can accelerate and define phenotypes suitable for early stage biomarker development are necessary. This poster will describe current available proteomic methodologies and how they might be applied towards sunscreen efficacy in skin cancer prevention. Dr. Nava Dayan L.L.C and Biotech Support Group LLC (BSG) have formed a collaborative initiative combining skin science and research with wet-end experimental observation and bioinformatic interpretation. For more information, contact Nava Dayan at nava.dayan@verizon.net.
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2014 Sun Exposure Symposium: Poster Session Moringa Concentrate: Isothiocyanate and Polyphenol-Rich Extract from Moringa Leaves Protect Against Photodamage, Oxidation, and Inflammation
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D.M. Cheng1, C. Waterman2, T.B. Tumer2, I. Raskin1,2, and N. Dayan3 1
Nutrasorb, LLC, North Brunswick, NJ Department of Plant Biology and Pathology, Rutgers, The State University of New Jersey, New Brunswick, NJ 3 Dr. Nava Dayan, LLC, Fair Lawn, NJ
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oringa oleifera Lam. has a long history of use in nutrition, medicine, and skin care. While moringa seed oil is used by the cosmetic industry for skin and hair care formulations, an aqueous moringa leaf extract is a novel ingredient that has been demonstrated to have potential in promoting skin health. Through a proprietary extraction method that allows for natural conversion of moringa glucosinates to isothiocyanates, we have developed moringa concentrate (MC). INCI: Moringa oleifera leaf extract. Isothiocyanates have been well researched and established as cancer chemopreventative, cytoprotective, and anti-inflammatory compounds. Notable isothiocyanates include phenethyl isothiocyanate and sulforaphane, derived from winter cress and broccoli, respectively. Isolation and use of isothiocyanates is typically associated with rapid loss of stability and unpleasant odor. Our work presentsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;for the first time in skin care researchâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; stable, water soluble isothiocyanates extracted from moringa leaf utilizing a simple process without involvement of harsh extraction solvents or complicated separation techniques. Various properties of MC, including solubility, stability, and chemical composition, have been characterized and standardized. Additionally, MC was subjected to a panel of in vitro studies, which demonstrated anti-inflammatory activity, direct and indirect antioxidant potential, and as protection against UV radiation. Human dermal fibroblasts irradiated with UVA/VIS light led to the upregulation of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) gene expression. Treatment of fibroblasts with MC after irradiation demonstrated significant reduction in MMP-1 gene expression compared to the control. Based on our experimental results, MC shows strong potential in skin protection and restoration, particularly from oxidative and inflammatory stresses of solar UV exposure. Nutrasob LLC and Dr. Nava Dayan LLC are collaborators. For inquires please contact: nava.dayan@verizon.net. _______________________________________________________________________________________
Constructing Human Skin Equivalents (HSEs) on Decellularized Mesothelial Extracellular Matrix for In-Vitro Testing Applications Pei-Chin Tsai1, Zheng Zhang2, Charles Florek3, and Bozena Michniak-Kohn1,2 1
Department of Pharmaceutics, Ernest Mario School of Pharmacy, Rutgers-The State University of New Jersey, Piscataway, NJ 2 New Jersey Center for Biomaterials, Rutgers-The State University of New Jersey, Piscataway, NJ 3 DSM Biomedical, Exton, PA urpose: In our study, we aim to use a novel material, acellular porcine mesothelial extracellular matrix (ECM), as a scaffold to construct partialthickness human skin equivalents (HSEs) in vitro. The constructed HSEs are aimed to assist in vitro irritation screening of topical formulations via high throughput format.
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Methods: Physical and mechanical properties of decellularized mesothelial ECM was measured by the Sintech5D MTS tensile test instrument. The mesothelial-HSEs were constructed by co-seeding 5 x 104 neonatal human fibroblasts (HDF) and 5 x 104 human keratinocytes (HaCaT) on a 12 mm diameter decellularized porcine mesothelial extracellular matrix (ECM) scaffold. After one week of submerged media culture, the skin models were transfered to an air-liquid interface and a relative humidity at 75%. The HSEs were harvested at week three and further analysis was performed. The cellular attachment was confirmed by fluorescent microscopy. The proliferation of skin cells were characterized via AlamarBlue assay 22
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on day 1, 4, 7, 11, 14, 18, and 21 of culture. The epidermal structures of the tissues were examined by histology (H&E staining). Immunohistochemical analysis was performed to characterize the expression of keratinocyte proliferation marker (keratin-15) and differentiation marker (involucrin) on mesothelial-HSEs. Results: The decellularized mesothelial ECM we used for constructing HSEs exhibited a thickness of 259.3 ± 82.0 µm and ultimate tensile strength of 8.7 ± 2.0 MPa. Cell attachment and cell proliferation of HDF and HaCaT on mesothelial ECM showed high biocompatibility of human skin cells to mesothelial ECM. Histological H&E staining indicated that the mesothelial-HSEs have a differentiated epidermal structure that is similar to human skin. Immunochemistry revealed the expression of the keratinocyte proliferation marker, keratin 15, and keratinocyte differentiation marker, involucrin, on the epidermis of HSEs, which support the notion that HaCaT can proliferate and differentiate on mesothelial ECM. Conclusions: Our results demonstrate the use of decellularized mesothelial ECM as a substrate to construct HSEs in vitro. These constructed mesothelial-HSEs exhibited tissue morphology similar to human skin with suitable mechanical strength to allow them to be utilized for in vitro screening systems of topical formulations. Acknowledgement: We thank DSM biomedical for supplying reagents and providing decellularized mesothelial ECM. This work was supported by the Center of Dermal Research and New Jersey Center for Biomaterials. _______________________________________________________________________________________
Tissue Viability Imaging to Determine Skin Erythema Following UVB Exposure After Application of Lotions with Different Protection Factors. Gert E. Nilsson* and George Kramer† *Wheelsbridge AB, Lovsbergsvagen 13, 58937 Linkoping, Sweden †STE Inc., 8209 Rider Avenue, Towson, MD, 21204, USA Introduction xposure to UVB sunlight is known to cause painful skin erythema and blistering. Information on individual skin sensitivity can be a valuable guide for developing a reliable personalized plan for sun exposure times, particularly in the spring season and on holidays at sunny venues. Sunlight (UVB) has the potential to create significant cumulative photo-damage in sensitive skin, ultimately leading to malignant melanomas and squamous or basal cell cancers. Other side effects of excessive sun exposure are the appearance of premature aging and other unwanted benign cosmetic skin conditions. It is therefore critically important for individuals to practice appropriate skin protection behavior, such as avoidance of excessive sunlight exposure and adequate application of an effective sun blocking topical lotion prior to exposure. In general, individuals having sensitive skin require higher protection factor lotions compared to those with less sensitive skin.
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Technology Skin micro-circulation maps generated by the Tissue Viability Imaging (TiVi) mobile technology can quantitatively validate individual skin sensitivity in order to identify an appropriate protection factor for that specific individual. The operating principle of the TiVi mobile technology is that of a polarization spectroscopy camera designed to produce sub-epidermal images for creating maps of the skin microcirculation. It operates either on a handheld mini-tablet computer with an integrated camera, or on a laptop computer with an external camera connected through a standard USB port. Photographs of skin and associated micro-circulation maps created immediately after UVB exposure and on successive days afterward, reveal that peak erythema occurs at about 24 hours following exposure. The magnitude of peak erythema will vary significantly depending upon the levels of protection factors contained in the topically applied lotions. Typically, peak erythema responses are reduced by 35, 80, and 100% if protection factors of 10, 30, and 50 are used, respectively. However responses may vary widely depending on the individuals’ skin sensitivity. In general, peak erythema is reduced to about 20% of the initial value after the tenth day following UVB exposure. Conclusion The TiVi mobile technology demonstrates not only the general protection properties of a lotion, but also the individual skin sensitivity to UVB exposure following application of a lotion with a specific protection factor. It therefore is a potential application for determining the maximum recommended UVB exposure for a specific individual given the level of protection factor contained in a lotion. This application may be useful (Continued on page 24)
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2014 Sun Exposure Symposium: Poster Session
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in the hands of dermatology and pharmacy technicians as well as resort hotel and spa staff for helping an individual establish a safe and effective sun exposure plan to avoid excessive skin erythema. _______________________________________________________________________________________
SYNTHALEN CR and STABYLEN 30 in Sunscreens 3V USA 3V USA, Georgetown, SC
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YNTHALEN CR, Polyquaternium-37 (powder), is an innovative and patented approach to improve the substantivity and water resistance of skin care formulations without using lipophilic ingredients. Thanks to its high MW and high cationic charge density, this hydrophilic polymer is able to create a non-occlusive film that prevents active ingredients (e.g., UV filters) from washing off the skin. At only 0.3% use-level formulated into an O/W sunscreen emulsion, more than 95% sunscreen actives remain after 40 minutes immersion in water. After 80 minutes, greater than 90 % sunscreen actives still remain. Furthermore, SYNTHALEN CR reduces the oiliness and tackiness perceived in some emulsions, improves cushion during application, and imparts an outstanding silky feel to the skin. It functions over a broad pH range (from 2.0 to 9.0) and does not require neutralization with base. It contributes to building the viscosity and yield value of the water phase, thus improving emulsion stability. Synthalen CR is compatible with all organic sunscreens as well as with micronized ZnO and TiO2. STABYLEN 30, acrylates/vinyl isodecanoate crosspolymer, is a cross-linked acrylic copolymer obtained by introducing lipophilic groups into a hydrophilic chain. The key attributes of the polymer include its ability to function as a cold process emulsifier, high salt-tolerance, good thickening efficacy, and high yield value for prolonged stability of suspensions and emulsions. It can be added to either the water or oil phase of emulsions for manufacturing flexibility. Only 0.5% Stabylen 30 provides 30% greater yield value than 3% xanthan gum. When employed as an emulsifier it is effective at very low concentrations regardless of the required HLB of the oil phase. As examples, once neutralized to pH 6.0, 0.25% Stabylen 30 can emulsify up to 50% mineral oil and up to 30% caprylic/capric triglyceride, cyclopentasiloxane, or C12-15 alkyl benzoate without any co-emulsifiers. It is possible to formulate emulsions with 50% of esters and triglycerides by simply increasing the level of polymer to 0.4-0.5%. Using Stabylen 30 can lead to one-pot formulations without the necessity of heat, reducing costs and saving energy, thus reducing the carbon footprint of your manufacturing process. In fact, it has no irritating potential and no need for other emulsifying/co-emulsifying agents. The ability to remove surfactants as emulsifiers potentially reduces skin irritation potential. Coincidently, this has the added advantage of enhanced water-resistance of sunscreen emulsions. In vitro test results show that simply replacing 3.5% cetearyl glucoside and cetearyl alcohol with just 0.25% Stabylen 30 gives the same viscosity cream (about 20,000 cps) while increasing water resistance of the sunscreen actives from 60% to 95% and from 40% to 90% after immersion in water for 40 minutes or 80 minutes, respectively. Company name: 3V USA Contact name: Joseph Albanese E-mail address: J.Albanese@3vusa.com
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he Cosmetiscope editorial committee invites all interested parties to submit feature technical articles for publication in the NYSCC monthly newsletter. Authors of feature articles are eligible to win the prestigous NYSCC Literature Award ($1,000) for the best front-page article published during the calendar year. Also, authors receive $200 reimbursement to attend a theatrical performance of their choice. Writing an article for your peers is a very rewarding experience, both personally and professionally, and would reserve your place in NYSCC history. You may choose whatever topic you feel would be interesting to fellow colleagues in our industry. We also welcome any other types of commentaries or articles that may be published in the Career Corner, Technical Tidbit section, or as a Letter to the Editor. Please send correspondence to: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu.
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Thank you to all of the companies supporting the 2014 NYSCC Sun Exposure Symposium by participating in the Poster Session.
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28th IFSCC Congress
Paris, France • October 27-30, 2014 More info: www.ifscc2014.com.
The board of directors of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) has announced that it will host the 29th IFSCC Congress on Oct. 23–26, 2016, in Orlando, Florida, USA. The theme of the meeting is “Beyond Dreams into New Frontiers—Inspire, Imagine, Innovate,” and the event will be held at the Dolphin Hotel at the Walt Disney World Resort. The organizing committee for the event includes Guy Padulo (Kobo Products Inc.), Colleen Rocafort (BASF Corp.), and Amy Wyatt (Chanel Inc.), with Padulo chairing the committee, Rocafort chairing the exhibition, and Robert Lochhead, Ph.D., serving as honorary chair of the event. To help promote the event, the SCC will be using QR Code technology. This technology enables individuals to scan the QR code with their smart phones, tablets, and iPads and receive an informative message. So far, two QR Codes have been introduced, with more planned over the next two years. There will be general sessions, a poster session, an exhibition, and three social events. The Committee on Scientific Affairs will again be responsible for the scientific program including both podium and poster presentations. It is expected that the call for papers of both podium and poster presentations will see a record number of abstracts submitted. The 2016 congress organizing committee is currently soliciting sponsorships. The committee is also seeking companies interested in participating at the exhibition that will take place in conjunction with the congress. The Pacific Hall will again be the venue with 50,000 square feet of columnless space. More information on the congress will be forthcoming including a call for papers, the exhibitor prospectus, and the launch of the event's website. See more at: http://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/networking/eventcoverage/161263995.html#sthash.iEC1haPW.dpuf 26
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Employment Opportunities Send employment ads to…Jason O’Neill (Jason.Oneill@kemin.com). Employment listings published in the Cosmetiscope are abridged due to space limitations. Posted (8/13/2014) n REGIONAL ACCOUNT MANAGER – EAST COAST Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, a high-end specialty active ingredient company is seeking a senior level sales professional with 5-7 years experience. The candidate will be responsible for managing accounts in their own territory and meeting Lucas Meyer Cosmetics specified targets by creating value for the existing customer base and prospecting for new customers with products, services, and/or solutions from Lucas Meyer Cosmetics. The ideal candidate will be a self-starter, and possess an inherent willingness to drive and champion his or her own territory with minimal supervision. Ideally, the candidate will possess a degree in Chemistry, Chemical Engineering, or Biology and be proficient in skin science. Travel up to 30%. Please contact: nancy.weinmaster@lucasmeyercosmetics.com. _____________________________________________________________ Posted (8/13/2014) n ACCOUNT MANAGER – COSMETICS/PERSONAL CARE NATUREX (over 1,400 employees worldwide and over $400 million in sales) is now a world leader in its field with the company recording strong growth every year. Present across all continents with both manufacturing and commercial facilities, it produces natural ingredients for the food, flavoring, pharmaceutical, cosmetic, and nutraceutical markets. As part of its Sales for the Eastern U.S., NATUREX is currently recruiting an Account Manager for the Cosmetics and Personal Care division. The successful candidate will be responsible for customer satisfaction leading to sustainable growth and increasing business with current and new customers.
Reporting to the Sales Director, the Account Manager is in charge of: • Establishing an annual budget and its implementation on the defined territory. • Organizing his/her schedule with customer visits, calls, and office work, leading to detailed reports in order to meet customer/prospect inquiries. • Preparing business reports communicated to the Sales Director. • Creating and completing the customer data sheets. Requirements: • B.S. and/or M.S. degree in Food Science/Agronomic/Agriculture. • 3 to 5 year experience in the cosmetics industry. • Technical sales ability. • The candidate must be able to travel locally (about 50% of time). • An organized, dynamic, committed, independent, and resilient personality. • Results driven and capable of building strong client relations. • Speaks English in a professional environment. NATUREX offers a competitive salary with excellent benefits. Interested candidates should send their resume to: m.sanchez@naturex.com.
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Posted (7/16/14) n EAST COAST SALES MANAGER – ACTIVES INTERNATIONAL Actives International, a supplier of highly functional botanical- and fermentation-based skin care ingredients, has an immediate opening for an East Coast Sales Manager based in the NYC metro area. The position requires a strong technical background, and will involve extensive travel throughout the territory. The successful candidate will increase sales revenue by maintaining and growing relationships with existing customers, and identifying and nurturing new customers. The sales manager will prepare regular call reports, forecasts, and analyses for Management, and will be responsible for leading strategic projects for multiple customers. This person will work closely with Customer Service and Purchasing departments to ensure customer satisfaction, and will be an integral part of the product development team along with R&D and Marketing. Responsibilities: • Promote the existing product line to generate immediate sales increases. • Maintain strong relationships with existing customers and develop new customers. • Develop new projects with Key Accounts. Manage activity and interactions at all customer levels, and act as liaison between the customer and Actives personnel. • Provide timely call reports, sales budgets, and sales forecasts. Regularly evaluate sale results, and analyze performance versus forecast. • Report competitive product and pricing activity. Work with R&D and Marketing to develop effective counter strategies. Skills and experience: • Minimum 3-5 years sales experience. Prior experience with biological personal care active ingredients is preferred. • Bachelor’s degree in science. • Self-motivated, results driven personality; tenacious sales attitude. • Strong interpersonal skills; ability to communicate effectively with customers. • Thrives in a team environment. • Demonstrated computer skills, particularly with MS Office programs. To apply, please send resume and salary history to: info@activesinternational.com. _____________________________________________________________ Posted (7/2/14) n RESEARCH & APPLICATIONS SPECIALIST Lonza is seeking an experienced Research and Applications Specialist for the Consumer Care Group. The position will be located in our South Plainfield, NJ location. Key responsibilities: • Work in Consumer Care Product and Application Development principally in personal care to develop new concepts and products in emulsification, rheology, colloid, thickening, and emollient technologies. • Work with and discuss testing results obtained from rheometers and viscometers.
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Employment Opportunities • Focus will be on understanding the science of emulsion and colloids, including rheometry, and correlation of emulsion, colloid, and emollient chemical structure to textural and feel aspects of the ingredients. • Cross-train other scientists in rheology and related sensory attributes. • Maintain up-to-date knowledge on scientific and commercial aspects of emulsifiers, thickeners, and emollients as used in personal care and nutritional commercial applications. • Develop new ideas and concepts in various areas noted above. Presentation of new ideas, scientific concepts, and marketing concepts in colloidal technologies to customers and at scientific conferences and events. • Work on new formulations for customers that employ interesting and new emulsifiers, colloidal agents, rheology modifiers, and emollients. • Develop sensory panels and understand and develop new ideas in sensory concepts for skin and hair care products and design experiments. Qualifications: • An advanced degree in Chemistry or other closely related science with 5+ years of lab/bench experience in formulations or new product development. • Experienced formulator with an excellent working knowledge of personal care and food-grade emulsifiers, rheology modifiers, and thickening and suspending ingredients is required. • Excellent working knowledge of additional personal care ingredients, especially emollients. • Should be able to carry out sensory and other evaluations to test aspects of ingredient functionality. • Ability to design well thought out experiments and then follow through to completion. • Ability to bring new ideas and concepts into Lonza Consumer Care. • Be able to present concepts in Colloid and other technologies to customers, and in external and internal scientific presentations. • Experience with Rheometry, especially the Malvern Rheometer. • Knowledge of Design of Experiments is a plus. Please Apply to: michele.christadore@lonza.com. http://www.lonza.com _____________________________________________________________ Posted (7/1/14) n SENIOR RESEARCH SCIENTIST – ELEMENTIS SPECIALTIES, EAST WINDSOR, NJ Position summary: Elementis Specialties is a leading global manufacturer of specialty additives to improve the performance of our customers’ products. Due to expansion of our activities and to strengthen our R&D team, we currently have a job opening for a Senior Research Scientist at our East Windsor, NJ laboratories. The successful candidate will develop new additive products and technologies for the consumer markets. The Senior Research Scientist will identify product opportunities through technology scouting activities, information gathering, and customer visits and explore new and existing technologies and apply creative thinking to their application in consumer relevant innovation. Responsibilities: • Identify product opportunities and design new additive products
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by building structure property relationships in customer specific formulations. • Develop appropriate test methodology in support of new and existing products. • Maintain a knowledge base relevant to product innovation for the home and personal care markets. • Contribute to the intellectual property position of the company via invention and patent applications. Qualifications: • A Ph.D. in Biology, Chemistry, or related scientific discipline. • Industrial experience developing personal care products with formulation knowledge in various forms (emulsions, gels, serums, etc.) and actives. • Ability to work as a team member in a dynamic environment. • Self-starter and task focused. • Highly motivated and results oriented. • Ability to communicate effectively with peers, management, and suppliers. Send resume to: Wouter.ijdo@elementis-na.com _____________________________________________________________ Posting Date: (6/25/14) n SENIOR CHEMIST (R&D) Interfashion Cosmetics, Corp., specializing in the manufacture and formulation of cosmetic products and located in Teterboro, NJ, is looking for a Senior Chemist to manage the Research & Development Division. The candidate will be responsible to oversee the conceptualization, initiation, development, evaluation, and follow through of cosmetic products and supervise junior-level development staff. The position requires an M.S. degree in Cosmetic Science with at least two years’ experience in innovation and product development, emulsion technology, reverse engineering of product, color matching, fragrance and sensorial analysis, claims substantiation, and fundamental research in dermatology. The successful candidate should have at least one year experience in supervising junior-level development staff including priority setting, performance appraisals, and training/development. Knowledge of OTC and sunscreen regulations in U.S., Europe, China, Asia, and Latin America is a plus. Main areas of responsibility: • Development of new and innovative skin care products. • Interface with outside subcontractors tracking project innovation. • Analysis of formulations for worldwide use. • Assure products meet IFRA guidelines. • Assist with onsite production approvals. • Troubleshooting production and R&D related issues. • Coordination of all testing for safety, clinicals, packaging, marketing, etc. • Stability assessment of products. Requirements and skills: • Master’s degree in Biology, Chemistry, Chemical Engineering or appropriate health/medical-related degree. • Technical expertise in skin care technology. • Experience in skin care formulations. • Strong interpersonal and problem solving skills. • Effective written and oral communication skills. • Ability to multi-task with attention to details.
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Salary commensurate with experience. Please send resume to: Jchang@dlabllc.com. _____________________________________________________________ Posting Date: (6/24/14) n MANAGER – HOME & PERSONAL CARE The Manager Customer Marketing and New Business Development Retail Brands HPC (Home & Personal Care) will be responsible for supporting the regional marketing and new business development initiatives of BASF’s Market Segment/Marketing and Product groups for North America. Success is measured by demonstrating profit growth for segments of responsibility. The successful candidate must be a team player with the ability to interface closely with the external market, customers, consultants, industry associations, and internal functions, such as the marketing team, product group management, sales, key account team, manufacturing, new business development, customer service, supply chain, controlling, etc. Responsibilities: • Monitor and understand brand positioning and activities of key accounts in the North American HPC markets and conclude BASF Marketing and solution offering complementing interaction and service offering via the Commercial and Technical account team. • Serve as marketing liaison for selected global key accounts by analyzing market data, identifying recent new product launches, and determining the best situated products for introduction to these accounts. • Serve as account team lead for retailers in the U.S. and Canada to actively influence retail private label and brand positioning and increase BASF’s footprint with key customer and contract manufacturers in this market space. • Understand the business model of selected marketing companies in the HPC market space and their supporting network of contract manufacturers and consultants, and manage and coordinate BASF sales, technology, and marketing resources to successfully penetrate these accounts with BASF products, solutions, and concept offerings. • Support the key account innovation process and execute value pricing for new product launches tailored to key accounts based on business plans, understanding positioning, and value pricing for products of responsibility and for the specific industries. • Scout North America for potential new accounts for future development. • Research North America for untapped market segments (e.g., ethnic hair care). • Analyze market data, call reports, competitive activities, public information, and market studies to identify areas to improve sales and profitability. Requirements: • B.A./B.S. degree, preferably in Marketing, Business Management, or Chemistry; MBA preferred (BASF recognizes institutions of Higher Education which are accredited by the Council for Higher Education Accreditation or equivalent). • Minimum 5+ years of experience in sales/marketing in the industry; consumer background is a plus. • Minimum 30% travel. • Excellent communication skills.
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• Excellent interpersonal, problem solving, leadership, organizational, and communication skills are required. The candidate must be capable of working in a multi-tasking environment, be team-oriented, and be able to handle difficult situations and solve problems effectively. • Above average computer skills in Microsoft Office, especially Powerpoint, Excel, Word, and Outlook. Interested candidates should apply online: http://jobs.basf.us/job/Florham-Park-Marketing-Manager-Home-&Personal-Care-Florham-Park%2C-NJ-Job-NJ-07932/69345900/ _____________________________________________________________ Posting Date: (6/24/14) n SKIN CARE PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT ASSOCIATE CHEMIST/CHEMIST NeoStrata is seeking an enthusiastic self-starter to join our growing Research & Development team as a Skin Care Product Development Associate Chemist. This position will be responsible for assisting in the development of new and innovative skin care and color cosmetic formulations including creams, lotions, OTC sunscreens, and skin cleansers to support the NeoStrata brands, as well as reformulation of existing products. Essential duties: • Formulate a wide range of skin care and color cosmetic formulations under direction of scientists. • Conduct raw material testing as needed for formulations and complete projects within deadlines. • Understand the basic principles of good experimental design, data analysis, and interpretation. • Assist in filling products into packaging for product stability testing purposes. • Learn to master the use of laboratory equipment and processes required to make formulation batches, including but not limited to laboratory mixers, blenders, homogenizers, balances, pH meters, viscometers, microscopes, centrifuges, packaging fillers, and sealers. • Perform measurements on ingredients and formulas, including pH, viscosity, melting point, IR, specific gravity, and microscopic evaluation. Tabulate data and review and edit manufacturing procedures. • Order raw materials and lab supplies as well as wash glassware. Qualifications • B.S. degree in Chemistry or other scientific discipline. • Knowledge of emulsion technology. • 0-5 years of industrial chemistry experience, ideally formulation development experience. • Familiarity with standard laboratory practices, concepts, and procedures is required. • Self-starter and responsible team player, able to work productively in a cross-functional team, able to handle multiple projects simultaneously, and highly motivated to learn and grow. • Highly computer literate; experience with web-based databases and Microsoft programs. • Excellent verbal and written communication and organizational skills. Please send resume to: Yaling Lee at ylee@neostrata.com.
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