JANUARY 2019 • Vol. 25 No. 1
New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists
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www.nyscc.org
Exploring the Exposome
he exposome is defined as the measure of all the health-related exposures of an individual in a lifetime. An individual’s exposure begins at birth and includes diet, lifestyle, occupational factors, environmental insults to the body, and the use of cosmetics and topically applied drugs. The exposome as it relates to skin was reviewed in the November 2018 issue of Cosmetiscope.1 The term exposome was coined by Christopher Wild. He published a paper in 2005 noting that: “There is a need for an exposome to match the findings obtained from the human genome learnings.” According to Wild, “This concept of an exposome may be useful in drawing attention to the need for methodologic developments in exposure (environmental) assessment.”2 The rational for this comment was the observation that learnings from the human genome project prediction for disease development was associated with environmental risk factors in addition to genetic risk factors for common chronic diseases. Further, Wild wrote that the exposome encompasses environmental exposure that includes lifestyle factors and internal environmental factors including tobacco use, alcohol consumption, diet, and stress. In later publications, Wild and others published methods of measuring or monitoring environmental exposure. He suggested use of personal sensors, biomarkers, the “omics” technologies (including proteomics, genomics, and metabolomics), and monitoring an individual’s external environmental exposure starting from prenatal development through adulthood. Human metabolism, hormonal variations, gut microflora, inflammation, and oxidative stress was included in the list of exposures to be monitored under the umbrella of internal exposome. In 2012, various European agencies started projects to monitor the exposome. In 2014, the HELIX project, a Barcelona-based Center for Research in Environmental Epidemiology was established to develop an early-life exposome.3 The Imperial College in England evaluated the use of smart phones and GPS technology to monitor environmental stressors. In the United States, the National Institute of Health established a study of technologies supporting exposome research, including gene-environment interactions.4
…by Howard Epstein
Botanicals are being investigated for biomonitoring of environmental pollution. Plant leaves of Tillandsia recurvata, commonly known as Spanish Moss, were shown to be effective for monitoring heavy metals found in the air of urban communities with heavy truck traffic. Cassia siamea, a tree found in tropical climates including India was found to be a monitor of particulate dust pollution. Various species of algae are also shown to be useful for monitoring heavy metal water pollution. In addition to plant monitoring, other methods of measuring pollution exposure include studies of feral and caged animals as well as in vitro cell and tissue culture assays. Lipophilic pollutants accumulate in all organisms that contain lipids. The levels and activity of enzymes will often reflect levels of pollution in the organism.5 The accumulation of pollutants in lipid areas of the cell have an impact on various (Continued on page 4)
N Y S C C E X P O S O M E S E M I N A R January 17 • Renaissance Woodbridge Hotel, Iselin, NJ
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2019 NYSCC BOARD OF DIRECTORS & PROGRAM CHAIRS CHAIR Sonia Dawson chair@nyscc.org
CHAIR-ELECT Gino Macalino chair-elect@nyscc.org
TREASURER Stephen Carter treasurer@nyscc.org
TREASURER-ELECT Mohamed Abdulla treasurer-elect@nyscc.org
SECRETARY Roumelia Alina-Balbastro secretary@nyscc.org
ADVISOR Cathy Piterski advisor@nyscc.org
HOUSE Suzanne Dawis house@nyscc.org
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Letter from the Chair
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…Sonia Dawson
Dear Esteemed Members of the NYSCC,
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t is with great pleasure that I wish you a Happy New Year full of happiness and success in your personal and professional lives.
I first would like to thank you for the honor and privilege to serve as Chair. I also would like to acknowledge and thank our previous Chair, Cathy Piterski, for her amazing coaching and leadership over the past 12 months. Last, but certainly not least, I thank last year’s Executive Board—Treasurer Michael Smith, Secretary Roumelia Alina-Balbastro, and Advisor Marie Thadal. Through their coordinated efforts, along with the support of outstanding committee leaders and members, they delivered one of the most successful years to date for the NYSCC. This year, the New York chapter turns 40! We are excited to celebrate 40 years of innovation during our 2019 Suppliers’ Day on May 7-8 by showcasing new features for the show. Stay tuned for exciting show updates in my upcoming Chair letters. There are two important show-related deadlines that are upcoming. Submissions for the new CEW Supplier’s Award (sponsored by NYSCC) are due January 15, 2019. Go to the CEW Beauty Awards events page on www.cew.org to submit. Suppliers’ Day Call for Presentations/Speakers is due February 4, 2019. To submit, please complete the hyperlinked Paper Submission form on the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org). Additionally, our program and event chairs have put together an amazing year of events covering new areas of research. Topics include supporting microbiome health through beauty, understanding how the culmination of all environmental exposure the body faces from birth onward (known as the exposome) can impact new cosmetic development, and deepening our understanding of the ever-changing landscape of areas such as sunscreens in the U.S. market. Through these topics and many others, the 2019 NYSCC Board looks to fulfill our promise to deliver industry-relevant content and advanced education to our membership. Finally, I want to acknowledge our newly elected board members, Chair-Elect Gino Macalino, Treasurer Stephen Carter, and Treasurer-Elect Mohamed Abdulla. Thank you for your partnership and commitment to growing the engagement of our members and taking on new initiatives to increase the relevancy of our chapter’s offerings. On behalf of the NYSCC Board, I wish you happiness, peace, and success in 2019.
MEMBERSHIP Open Position
PROGRAM Susanna Fernandes fernandes.susie@gmail.com
COMMUNICATIONS Thomas Drwiega webmaster@nyscc.org
SPECIAL EVENTS Amy Marshall amy.marshall@altana.com
COSMETISCOPE EDITOR Roger McMullen roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu
COSMETISCOPE ADVERTISING Bret Clark rbclark@ashland.com 2
Call for Papers
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he Cosmetiscope editorial committee invites all interested parties to submit feature technical articles for publication in the NYSCC monthly newsletter. Authors of feature articles are eligible to win the prestigous NYSCC Literature Award ($1,000) for the best front-page article published during the calendar year. Also, authors receive $200 reimbursement to attend a theatrical performance of their choice. Writing an article for your peers is a very rewarding experience, both personally and professionally, and would reserve your place in NYSCC history. You may choose whatever topic you feel would be interesting to fellow colleagues in our industry. We also welcome any other types of commentaries or articles that may be published in the Career Corner, Technical Tidbit section, or as a Letter to the Editor. Please send correspondence to: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu.
Make note of it… Send news of interest, guest editorials, and comments to Roger McMullen, Editor • E-mail: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu
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FACEBOOK: NEW YORK LINKED IN: NEW YORK SCC TWITTER: @NYSCC INSTAGRAM: NYSCCMAIN SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS These connections are possible by the NYSCC Social Media Committee
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enzymes, including those in the P-450 family of enzymes, resulting in stress of the antioxidant defense system of the organism, which can eventually alter gene expression. Cells contain stress proteins, known as heat-shock proteins, which represent a primary defense mechanism that is activated by damaged proteins. Induction occurs rapidly after exposure to pollution. Heat shock proteins are found in all organisms, including bacteria, plants, and humans.5 Assays for all of these examples exist for evaluating the impact of pollutants on skin and determining the efficacy of potential ingredients appropriate for antipollution skin care products.
References 1. R.L. McMullen, The skin aging exposome, Cosmetiscope, 24(9), 1-4 (2018). 2. C.P. Wild, Complementing the genome with an “exposome”: the outstanding challenge of environmental exposure measurement in molecular epidemiology, Cancer Epidemiol. Biomark. Prev., 14, 1847-1850 (2005). 3. M. Vrijheid et al., The human early-life exposome (HELIX): project rationale and design, Environ. Health Perspect., 122, 535-544 (2014). 4. E. Callaway, Daily dose of toxics to be tracked, Nature, 491, 647 (2012). 5. V. Tonkopii, S. Kotelevtsev, and O. Hanninen, “Biomonitoring of environmental pollution” in Physiology and Maintenance – Enzymes: The Biological Catalysts of Life Nutrition and Digestion, Vol. II, Encyclopedia of Life Support Systems, Eds. O. Hanninen and M. Atalay, Eolss Publishers: Oxford, 2009. _____________________________________________
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r. Howard Epstein is Director, Technical Services for EMD Performance Materials Corporation, an affiliate of Merck, KGaA, Darmstadt, Germany. He was a scholar in residence at the University of Cincinnati Department of Dermatology and received his Ph.D. in Pharmacognasy from the Union Institute & University in Cincinnati, Ohio during that time. Howard has authored chapters in various cosmetic technology textbooks including Apply Topically and the Manual of Gender Dermatology. He served as editor of the Journal of Cosmetic Science and authored and edited various chapters in Harry’s Cosmeticology, 9th edition, which was recently published. Howard has extensive experience in the cosmetic industry, formulating for Estée Lauder, Bausch & Lomb, and KAO brands. Howard has six formulation-related patents and currently serves on the editorial board of the dermatological journal SKINmed, representing the cosmetics industry to dermatologists.
Upcoming 2019 NYSCC Events Calendar • For updated NYSCC information, visit us on the web at: www.nyscc.org • For National SCC information: www.scconline.org January 17 NYSCC Exposome Seminar, Iselin, NJ Jan. 31 - Feb. 2 NYSCC Ski Trip, Gore Mountain, NY February 6 NYSCC Hair Care Workshop, Weehawken, NJ
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May 7-8 NYSCC Suppliers’ Day, New York, NY
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NYSCC Exposome Seminar January 17 • 4:00 – 8:00 p.m. Renaissance Woodbridge Hotel, Iselin, NJ Event chair: Howard Epstein (howard.epstein@emdgroup.com)
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4:00 – 4:30 p.m. Registration 4:30 – 5:30 p.m. Exposing the Human Exposome: Development of a Device that Captures Particulates in the Air – The Road to Developing Personalized Medicine – Michael Snyder, Ph.D., Stanford Center for Genomics and Personalized Medicine, Stanford University
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5:30 – 7:00 p.m. Cocktail Hour/Dinner 7:00 – 8:00 p.m. DNA Testing – The Basics – Michael L. Baird, Ph.D., DNA Diagnostics Center
Speaker Abstracts and Biographies
Exposing the Human Exposome: Development of a Device that Captures Particulates in the Air – The Road to Developing Personalized Medicine – Michael Snyder, Ph.D.
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uman health is heavily influenced by environmental exposures, and the diversity and variation of these factors is not well understood. Our laboratory developed a high-sensitivity method to monitor personal airborne biological and chemical exposures by integrating a wearable device and multipleomics measurements. We followed a group of individuals for up to 890 days, and it was demonstrated that individuals are exposed to thousands of species and chemical compounds. Personal exposomes were found to be highly dynamic and vary spatial-temporally, including individuals located in the same geographical region. These studies were used for our lab to create an exposome interaction network consisting of a stable human and a dynamic environment-centric cloud. Our work describes a unique method to capture and analyze personal environmental exposures, and demonstrates that human exposomes are diverse, dynamic, and spatial-temporally driven with the potential to impact human health. The study resulted in about 70 billion readouts. n Michael
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Snyder, Ph.D.
Michael Snyder is the Stanford Ascherman Professor and Chair of Genetics and the Director of the Center of Genomics and Personalized Medicine at Stanford University. Dr. Snyder received his Ph.D. training at the California Institute of Technology and carried out postdoctoral training at Stanford University. He is a leader in the field of functional genomics and proteomics, and one of the major participants V O L U M E
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NYSCC Exposome Seminar
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of the ENCODE project. His laboratory study was the first to perform a large-scale functional genomics project in any organism, and has developed many technologies in genomics and proteomics. Seminal findings from the Snyder laboratory include the discovery that much more of the human genome is transcribed and contains more regulatory information than was previously appreciated, and a high diversity of transcription factor binding occurs both between and within species. He has also combined different state-of–the-art “omics” technologies to perform the first longitudinal detailed integrative personal omics profile (iPOP) of person and used this to assess disease risk and monitor disease states for personalized medicine. Professor Snyder is a cofounder of several biotechnology companies, including Protometrix (now part of Life Technologies), Affomix (now part of Illumina), Excelix, Personalis, and Q Bio. _____________________________________________
DNA Testing – The Basics
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– Michael L. Baird, Ph.D.
t is now possible to unlock the information found within DNA to answer a myriad of questions. This presentation will provide a basic understanding of DNA structure and the types of tests available to better understand what genetic factors are present including microsatellite analysis, single nucleotide polymorphism (SNP) testing, and next generation sequence (NGS) analysis. The presentation will also discuss epigenetics and expression assays that can modify genes as well as the use of bioinformatics to assemble vital genetic information. n Michael
S p e c i a l t y Es t e r s
PROTAMERS
L. Baird, Ph.D.
Dr. Baird received his doctorate in genetics from the University of Chicago. He was a postdoctoral fellow for one year at the University of Michigan in the department of human genetics where he studied sickle cell anemia. He next joined Columbia University as a Research Associate in the department a human genetics and medicine where, over a three-year period, he studied the molecular basis of the blood genetic disease thalassemia. He then joined Lifecodes Corporation at its inception as a Senior Scientist where he pioneered DNA methods for the determination of parentage, forensic identity, and tissue transplantation. During his 20 years at Lifecodes, Dr. Baird held the positions of Senior Scientist, Laboratory Director, and Vice-President of Laboratory Operations. After leaving Lifecodes, Dr. Baird joined DNA Diagnostics Center in Fairfield, Ohio where he is now Chief Science Officer, Laboratory Director, and DNA Technical Leader. Dr. Baird has published over 50 articles in peer-reviewed journals as well as chapters in books about the use of DNA for identification. He was the first to testify in a criminal trial involving DNA evidence and has since testified in over 300 criminal cases. He has presented at dozens of scientific meetings around the world about DNA testing for identification. He served on the panel of the Office of Technology Assessment for the U.S. Congress studying the use of DNA for identification. He also presented information to the panels of the National Research Council that studied DNA testing methods and issued reports in 1992 and 1996. Dr. Baird has appeared on TV as the DNA consultant for NBC during the O.J. Simpson trial, the DNA expert for the Anna Nicole Smith case, and on the Judge David Young show. He has also been interviewed by dozens of TV and print journalists on issues involving DNA testing and specific cases. n Registration
SCC members: $35 Non-SCC members: $70 Students: $10 Emeritus members: Free Please visit the Events section of the NYSCC website to register: www.nyscc.org. n Location
Renaissance Woodbridge Hotel 515 US Highway 1 South, Iselin, NJ Tel: (732) 634-3600
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2019 NYSCC Ski Trip January 31st – February 2nd n Pricing
Gore Mountain, NY (SCC members and non-SCC members):
• Adult lift ticket (2 days) – $109 • Ski rental (2 days) – $70 • Snow board rental (2 days) – $70 • Beginner’s lesson pack (90 min.) per day – $31 • All America buffet dinner (Holiday Inn) – $35
n Recommended
Lodging:
Holiday Inn Resort – (518) 668-5781 • Special rate for NYSCC Ski Trip • January 31st: $119/night plus tax • February 1st: $149.00/night plus tax Please book by January 20th at the latest.
The NYSCC Ski Trip is a family event, so children and other invited guests are welcome. Car pooling is recommended. n Educational/Social
Event – February 1st
Dinner/Speaker (5:00-10:00 p.m.) Cocktail Hour: 5:00 p.m. Speaker: 6:00 p.m. Topic: TBD
Registration is available at the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org). For further information, please contact Amy Marshall – E-mail: amy.marshall@altana.com • Tel: (908) 391-6294
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Employment Opportunities For complete ads please go to the NYSCC website: www.nyscc.org.
n Northeast Technical Sales Representative Colonial Chemical, Inc. Greater New York City Area
n Technician, Materials Science – Makeup Estée Lauder Companies Melville, NY
n Customer Service Representative Bloomage Freda Biopharm USA, Inc. Parsippany, NJ
n Fragrance – Technician Estée Lauder Companies Melville, NY
n Sr. Analyst – Regulatory Estée Lauder Companies Melville, NY
n Sr. Formulation Chemist I/II – Development L’Oréal USA Clark, NJ
n Applications Chemist Presperse Corporation Somerset, NJ
n Director, Research & Innovation – Product Performance Manager (Makeup) L’Oréal USA Clark, NJ
n Senior Staff Scientist – Skin/Sun Care Ashland Specialty Ingredients, G.P. Bridgewater, NJ n Lab Manager Frank CPG Partners Fort Lauderdale, FL
n Expert – Skin Microbiome L’Oréal USA Clark, NJ
Monthly Meeting Group Discount The NYSCC is offering a group discount of 15% to companies who send 5 or more employees to a monthly meeting. All five employees would need to be registered at the same time to receive the discount. Once purchased, registrations are non-refundable.
NYSCC Hair Care Workshop: Concept to Scale-up February 6, 2019 4:00 – 8:00 p.m. Chart House, Weehawken, NJ
Event Chair: Joseph Dallal (jdallal@ashland.com)
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