Letter from the Chair …Stacey House

Ican’t believe it is February already, but I am very excited about the upcoming programs that we have planned to engage, energize, and entertain our members

We start our first At Home Live program this month providing an overview of the first major amendment to the FDA’s cosmetics authorities in 85 years, the Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act of 2022 (MoCRA) This important webinar will take place on Thursday, February 23rd.

Then, February ends with our first in-person educational program covering a category that has grown in importance and is a hotbed of innovation: “Haircare and Wellness.” Taking place on Tuesday, February 28th at the popular Chart House, this curated panel of renowned scientists will share insight on the effect of various types of stressors on hair and scalp health and also explore related technical solutions

Looking ahead, the March 23rd dinner program will cover: “Sunscreen Innovations and History/ For mulation with DHA for Sunless Tanning.” For the month of April we are designing a webinar that celebrates Earth Day and all things sustainable We also plan to have fresh and relevant content on pro-aging, biodegradability, waterless technologies, the world of color, fragrance, and so much more in the coming months

The NYSCC was also on the move sponsoring the IBA Networking Reception in Los Angeles that featured a sci-comm panel of influencers discussing “Truth in Beauty” on February 16th. We are proud to continue our sponsorship of the CEW Beauty Creators Award for Supplier’s Ingredients and Formulation innovations. Submissions for this prestigious award will be opening soon and the finalists of this award will be announced on May 2nd at the Industry Awards Night during Suppliers’ Day Suppliers’ Day, which will be held on May 2-3, is shaping up to be our biggest event to date and will bring our “Reimagining Renewal and Wellness,” theme to life. We have forged exciting partnerships and are finalizing an incredible program that offers something for everyone including curated content blocks that cover science and technical programs, product development education, lunch and lear ns, and cosmetic science roadmap for beginners as well as product launch intelligence and future inspiration Registration is now open for this can’t miss “Week of Beauty,” at: www.nyscc.org/suppliers-day

In closing, I would also like to share some recent media interviews with HAPPI Magazine and CosmeticsDesign that will give you sense of industry trends and other items the NYSCC has planned for our members this year and at Suppliers’ Day The HAPPI Magazine interview can be found at: https://www.happi.com/contents/view happi-tv/2023-02-02/ an-exciting-year-for-the-new-york-chapter-of-the-society-of-cosmetic-chemists/ The CosmeticsDesign interview is available at: https://www.cosmeticsdesign.com/Article/2023/01/20/ looking-ahead-in-2023-with-nyscc-chair y the only Tr able ainable Rene Hand w vhar Sus , tes t ed, , Mineral-rich, Ultra Fine Glacial Marine Clay Powder. r.

I look forward to meeting many of you at our upcoming events Let’s keep the strong NYSCC momentum going!

Concluding Remarks

In conclusion, the cosmetic and nutrition (supplements) industry are converging, with beauty being a shared target Innovative supplement for mulations which carry high end natural ingredients are becoming popular and in demand by the market. Rigorous science and testing are mandatory to make sure the for mulation can survive scrutiny by the consumers and FDA The combination of topical and ingestible treatments in the beauty market is expected to continue to grow in the years ahead

References

1. S.R. Ellis, M. Nguyen, A.R. Vaughn, M. Notay, W.A. Bur ney, S Sandhu, and R K Sivamani, The skin and gut microbiome and its role in common der matologic conditions, Microorganisms, 7(11):550, 2019.

2 I M Hadshiew, K Foitzik, P C Arck, and R Paus, Burden of hair loss: stress and the underestimated psychosocial impact of telogen effluvium and androgenetic alopecia, J. Invest. Der matol , 123(3):455-457, 2004

3 M J Adelman, L M Bedford, and G A Potts, Clinical efficacy of popular oral hair growth supplement ingredients, Int. J. Der matol., 60(10):1199-1210, 2021.

4 A K Clark, K N Haas, and R K Sivamani, Edible plants and their influence on the gut microbiome and acne, Int. J. Mol. Sci., 18(5):1070, 2017.

5 K Sardana and S Sachdeva, Role of nutritional supplements in selected der matological disorders: a review, J Cosmet Der matol , 21(1):85-98, 2022

About the Author:

Giorgio Dell’Acqua is Nutrafol’s Chief Scientific Officer As part of the leadership team, Giorgio spearheads brand innovation, product for mulation, and scientific communication. After obtaining his Ph.D. in Cell Biology in 1989, Giorgio worked in academia for 15 years as an investigator in applied medical research Moving to the private sector in 2000, he has spent the last 22 years as an executive and cosmetic scientist in the personal care industry During his career, he directed R&D, Innovation, Science, and Product Development at multiple companies, including La Prairie and Kiehl’s. He has helped bring more than 200 successful active ingredients and finished products to market, authored more than 80 publications in medicine and cosmetic science, holds two patents, and has been a keynote speaker on clean beauty and natural ingredients. Giorgio serves on the NYSCC board as Advisor

Call for Papers

The Cosmetiscope editorial committee invites all interested parties to submit feature technical articles for publication in the NYSCC monthly newsletter Authors of feature articles are eligible to win the prestigous NYSCC Literature Award ($1,000) for the best front-page article published during the calendar year Authors also receive $200 reimbursement to attend a theatrical perfor mance of their choice. Writing an article for your peers is a very rewarding experience, both personally and professionally, and will ensure your place in NYSCC history You may choose whatever topic you feel would be interesting to fellow colleagues in our industry We also welcome any other types of commentaries or articles that may be published in the Career Corner, Technical Tidbit section, or as a Letter to the Editor. Please send correspondence to: roger mcmullen@fdu.edu

FDA Cosmetics Reform is Here –Interpreting MoCRA

February 23, 2023 • 11:00 a.m. – 12:00 p.m.

For more infor mation, and to register for the event, visit the Events section of the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org).

The Moder nization of Cosmetics Regulation Act of 2022 (MoCRA) is the first major amendment to the FDA’s cosmetics authorities in 85 years. An overview of the new law and understanding of how it impacts manufacturers, packers, or distributors of a cosmetics product versus cosmetic and raw material suppliers will be provided

n Featured Speaker – Carl D’Ruiz (DSM Personal Care)

Carl is currently the Senior Manager of Regulatory and Scientific Affairs at DSM Personal Care He has 25+ years of experience in providing strategic scientific, regulatory compliance, and pre-market approval advice and direction for the successful commercialization and marketing of numerous OTC drug, cosmetic and personal care products, ingredients, and brands

He is currently the Chair of the PCPC Sunscreen Consortium, championing industry’s efforts to substantiate the safety and efficacy of existing sunscreens and paving the innovation path for the inclusion of new sunscreen ingredients under the FDA’s OTC sunscreen monograph

He holds a master’s degree from Yale University and a bachelor’s degree from Fordham University He also has executive business certificates from The Darden and Wharton Business Schools. He is a full member of the Society of Toxicology, Photoder matology Society, and Society for Cosmetic Chemists

2023 NYSCC Events Calendar

• For updated NYSCC infor mation, visit us on the web at: www.nyscc.org

• For National SCC infor mation: www.scconline.org

February 23 FDA Cosmetics Reform is Here – Virtual Event

February 28 Hair Care and Wellness, The Chart House, Weehawken, NJ

March 23 Sunscreen Innovations, Pleasantdale Château, South Orange, NJ

April 4 Sustainable Active Ingredients Produced by Biotechnology – Virtual Event

April 20 Earth Day, Liberty House, Jersey City, NJ

May 2-3 Suppliers’ Day, Jacob K. Javits Convention Center, New York, NY

May 2 NYSCC Awards Night, Second Floor NYC, New York, NY

June 14 NYSCC Acne Symposium, Fairleigh Dickinson University, Florham Campus, Madison, NJ

Hair Care and Wellness

February 28, 2023

5:00 – 8:00 p.m.

The Chart House, Weehawken, New Jersey

Event Chairs

Amber Evans, Ph.D. and Farahdia Edouard

For more infor mation, and to register for the event, visit the Events section of the NYSCC website (www nyscc org)

Agenda

5:00 – 5:50 p m

5:50 – 6:00 p.m.

6:00 – 6:25 p m

6:30 – 6:55 p m

Registration and Networking/Cocktail Reception

Introduction

The Implications of Lifestyle on Hair and Scalp Health

– Crystal E. Porter, Ph.D. (Mane Insights, Inc.)

Scalp Application of Antioxidants Improves Scalp Condition and Reduces Hair Shedding in Randomized, Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled Clinical Trials

– Michael G Davis (Procter & Gamble)

7:00 – 7:50 p m

7:50 – 8:15 p m

8:20 – 8:25 p m

Proudly sponsored by:

Dinner

Scalp Evaluation by FTIR Spectroscopy

– Marcella Gabarra A. Leite, Ph.D. (TRI Princeton)

Closing Remarks

Speaker and Chair Biographies

Crystal E. Porter, Ph.D. – Speaker

Crystal E Porter, Ph D is a hair scientist and owner of Mane Insights, Inc , where she conducts research studying the hair and scalp of people of African descent. Dr. Porter is passionate about debunking myths and empowering others to properly care for their hair As a for mer cosmetic scientist with Unilever and L’Oréal USA, Dr. Porter was able to conduct research and study the biophysical characteristics of hair in pigmented populations She has contributed to the scientific understanding of ethnic hair through authorship of scientific articles, book chapters, and presentations.

Dr Porter earned a bachelor’s degree in Biochemistry from Chicago State University and her doctorate degree from Missouri University of Science and Technology in Physical Polymer Chemistry. Ar med with extensive knowledge and experience, she has created a patented process that helps professionals understand their client’s hair so that they can provide customized hair care solutions. In addition to her professional work, Dr Porter’s personal passion is educating and mentoring underrepresented youth about STEM opportunities

Michael G. Davis – Speaker

Mike Davis, Principal Scientist, joined The Procter & Gamble Company in 1998 in P&G Pharmaceuticals, where he conducted research on small molecule therapies for peripheral arterial disease In 2006, he joined P&G Hair Care in the Product Claims Support Division In June of 2011 he joined the Hair Biology Group and is now a lead technologist supporting the Head and Shoulders and KeepItAnchored hair retention brands His work on hair structure has led to molecular understanding of hair production and retention. He serves as a reviewer for multiple jour nals and is an Associate Editor for the Jour nal of Cosmetic Science.

Marcella Gabarra A. Leite, Ph.D. – Speaker

Marcella Gabarra Almeida Leite qualified as a Phar maceutical Biochemist in 2016 with a degree from University of São Paulo, Brazil. She ear ned her Ph D in Phar maceutical Sciences at the same university, focusing on technologies for cosmetic products. Marcella has worked on the development and clinical evaluation of hair and skin care products since she was an undergraduate student, which resulted in published articles and oral and poster presentations at several congresses. Currently, Marcella is a postdoctoral fellow at TRI Princeton and works in the Skin and Biosubstrates group

Amber O. Evans, Ph.D. – Event Chair

Dr Amber Evans is Senior Manager of Product Development at Moroccanoil where she leverages her technical expertise in hair and skin care, ingredient and for mulation technology, and claims testing to help drive the global launch of prestige products for hair and body care and hair color. Prior to Moroccanoil, she worked as a development scientist at ingredient supplier BASF, where her contributions spanned hair, body, and oral care She also previously supported hair care initiatives at Procter & Gamble.

Dr Evans ear ned a Ph D in Cosmetic Science from University of Cincinnati and a B.S. in Chemistry from North Carolina Agricultural and Technical State University. She has authored hair care research publications, contributed content to the NYSCC Blog series and NaturallyCurly com, and has been featured on multiple platfor ms that support aspiring scientists and early career professionals Additionally, Dr Evans serves as the NYSCC Chair-Elect, a reviewer for the Jour nal of Cosmetic Science, and a member of the Editorial Advisory Board for GCI Magazine

Farahdia Edouard – Event Co-Chair

Farahdia Edouard is a Senior Research and Technology Manager for the Beauty Care division of Consumer Care at Croda, Inc., based in Princeton, New Jersey Since joining Croda in 2006, Farahdia has held numerous roles, leading regional and global teams across different application areas of Personal Care, with expertise in hair care and skin care for mulation science, and product validation and claims substantiation She has a proven track record of leading the development and launch of several successful raw materials to the market.

Farahdia holds a bachelor’s degree in Molecular Biology and Biochemistry with a second major in French, and a master’s degree in Chemistry and Chemical Biology from Rutgers University Farahdia also holds two patents, has presented at industry conferences, and has been published in trade magazines such as HAPPI Magazine and Journal of Cosmetic Science. She is passionate about science, especially hair science, and continues to make contributions to the industry in hair care product development