NYSCC Programs NYSCC Programs Sunscreen Innovations and History/ Formulation of Dyhydroxyacetone (DHA) for Sunless Tanning

March 23, 2023 • 4:30 – 8:45 p.m.

Pleasantdale Château, West Orange, New Jersey

Howard Epstein, Ph.D. and Saba Zareh

Agenda

4:30 – 5:00 p.m. Registration

5:00 – 5:15 p m Welcome and Opening Comments

5:15 – 5:40 p.m. Status Update on Hybrid Method ISO 23698 for In Vitro SPF Testing

Eduardo Ruvolo (Beiersdorf)

5:40 – 6:25 p.m. Cocktail Hour

6:25 - 6:50 p m

Self-Tanning, History of DHA, and For mulating Considerations – Howard Epstein, Ph.D. (EMD Electronics)

6:50 – 7:50 p m Dinner

7:25 – 7:50 p.m. Creating a Transparent Sunscreen for Diverse Skin Tones Using Mineral Filters – Maitree Kanjilal (Kobo Products)

7:50 – 8:15 p m

Your Ideal Bodygard: The Use of Fused-Ring Cyanoacrylate Chemistry to Accompany Sunscreens in the Battle Against Photoaging – Tia Alkazaz (Hallstar Beauty)

8:15 – 8:45 p m Q&A – Wrap Up

Proudly sponsored by:

For more infor mation, and to register for the event, visit the Events section of the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org).

n Saba Zareh – Event Co-Chair

Saba Zareh is a seasoned beauty industry professional with a bachelor’s and master’s degree in Chemistry from the University of Geneva in Switzerland and an MBA in Marketing Saba has five years of experience in the personal care industry, recently joining Hallstar as a Sales Manager Previously at Givaudan, she brings a blend of technical and business skills to the community

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Speaker Abstracts and Biographies

The Future of SPF and UVA-PF Testing: HDRS and ISO 23698

Eduardo Ruvolo (Beiersdorf) n Eduardo Ruvolo

The hybrid diffuse reflectance spectroscopy (HDRS) technique is the first non-erythemal/nonpigmenting approach to measuring the in vivo sun protection factor (SPF) and UVA Protection Factor (UVA-PF). Skin reflectance measurements in combination with in vitro transmission measurements can provide the correct assessment of the SPF, UVA-PF (in vivo/in vitro), and critical wavelength. This presentation will cover the status of the development of ISO 23698, presenting results from ring studies and the bioequivalence method with in vivo assessment The HDRS method eliminates skin irradiation and does not require SPF target for exposures The HDRS method will allow sunscreen developers and laboratory testing facilities to better understand, test, and develop sunscreen products.

Eduardo Ruvolo is currently Clinical and Scientific Affairs Director at Beiersdorf, Inc. in the U.S. Eduardo ear ned a bachelor’s and master’s degree in Theoretical and Applied Physics at University of São Paulo in Brazil Trained as a biophysicist, he has expertise and experience in the physical and life sciences areas Eduardo has developed and delivered scientific substantiation for new claims in the OTC medicine and cosmetic arena by developing innovative clinical study designs and proving the mechanism of action of new active ingredients along with compelling communication to many different professionals across diverse areas of expertise He has extensive research experience and publications in cosmetics, OTC medicine, skin bioinstrumentation, medical devices, and photoprotection He is a member of the U S Sunscreen Task Force and is currently leading the ISO 23698 Project Eduardo is also the Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) Sunscreen Committee Chair

Self-Tanning, History of DHA, and Formulating Considerations

Howard Epstein, Ph.D. (EMD Electronics)

Dihydroxyacetone (DHA), an ingredient currently used for sunless self-tanning, has a history of use for well over 60 years During the 1920s, DHA was investigated to treat diabetics as a glucose substitute The skin tanning property was discovered when DHA was administered orally to children and some of the DHA accidently deposited on the skin’s surface resulting in discoloration During the 1950s, DHA began to be commercialized as a self-tanning ingredient; however, the mechanism of self-tanning was unknown George Guest and Eva W ittengestein scientists at the Research Institute, Children’s Hospital, Cincinnati, Ohio investigated the mechanism and published their findings during the early 1960s n Howard Epstein, Ph.D.

For mulating self-tanning products with DHA is not without challenges Ingredient compatibility, appropriate selection of emulsifiers, pH, presence of metal oxides, and other considerations can promote development of an orange color on skin and lead to for mulation instability In this presentation, we will review for mulation considerations essential for DHA self-tanning products.

Howard Epstein is Director of Technical Services for EMD Electronics, Surface Solutions, Philadelphia, PA an affiliate of Merck KGaA, Dar mstadt, Ger many. He was a scholar in residence at the University of Cincinnati Department of Der matology and received his Ph.D. in Phar macognosy from the Union Institute and University in Cincinnati, Ohio during that time He has worked in the cosmetics industry for many years since he began his career, for mulating cosmetics for Estée Lauder, Maybelline, Max Factor, Bausch & Lomb, and Kao Brands. In addition to his interest in botanicals, Howard previously served as editor of the Jour nal of the Society of Cosmetic

Science and is a member of the Inter national Academy of Der matology. He is on the editorial board of the der matological jour nals Clinics in Der matology and SKINmed representing the cosmetics industry to der matologists Howard has authored chapters in various cosmetic technology textbooks including several chapters in Harry’s Cosmeticology and holds eight patents. He received the Maison G. deNavarre Medal Award in 2020, the society’s highest honor supporting the best interests of the cosmetics and personal care industry.

Creating a Transparent Sunscreen for Diverse Skin Tones Using Mineral Filters

Maitree Kanjilal (Kobo Products) n Maitree Kanjilal

UVA and UVB radiation are known to cause aging, skin cancer, wrinkles, and dark spots Broad spectrum sunscreens provide protection; however, marketed for mulations need to be more inclusive to protect those with deeper skin tones It is a challenge to find aesthetically pleasing products with high protective effects. Organic UV filters can be utilized to meet the need of this demographic However, since they penetrate the skin, they are less desirable at least until the FDA definitively categorizes these materials as generally recognized as safe (GRAS).

Maitree is currently a Staff Scientist at Kobo Products the leading powder and dispersion specialist worldwide She started her career at Dow Chemical Corporation as a technologist. She later worked at Schwan Cosmetics USA as a Chemist for many years before joining the KOBO R&D team Maitree received a M.S. degree in Physics from University of Calcutta (CU) with a specialization in Crystallography She is a member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists

Your Ideal Bodygard: The Use of Fused-Ring

Cyanoacrylate Chemistry to Accompany Sunscreens in the Battle Against Photoaging

Tia Alkazaz (Hallstar Beauty)

Protecting skin from sun damage is one of the most effective ways to prevent signs of visible aging Innovative stabilization chemistry has enabled authentic, effective protection from direct damage by the most penetrating, longer wavelength (340–400 nm) UVA-I rays However, even some stable chemical sunscreen agents can transfer the energy they absorb to molecular oxygen (creating reactive oxygen species (ROS)) and cause damage to the skin’s DNA, protein, and lipids

Antioxidant additives can scavenge and quench the resulting free radicals and ensuing oxidation events However, their neutralization capability is limited and complicated by strong color, even at low concentrations Antioxidants are, at best, a partial and after-the-fact response At the same time, even with highly advanced for mulations and ideal usage, the effects of the UVA-I region of the light spectrum can never be completely blocked or absorbed UV photons always take some toll on the skin whenever exposure occurs.

The use of fused-ring cyanoacrylates chemistry is a revolutionary, proactive way to halt photoaging in its tracks Rather than repair already-damaged DNA or block some of skin’s exposure to ultraviolet or visible light, fused-ring cyanoacrylates chemistry protects by quenching excitation of skin’s endogenous photosensitizers Photo-induced aging damage is thus avoided because the for mation of singlet oxygen and other ROS is stopped before it starts.

n Tia Alkazaz

Tia Alkazaz is the Sun Care Business Manager at Hallstar Beauty, where she leads the global engagement strategy for photoprotection solutions W ith a decade of technical marketing experience in the cosmetics industry, Tia brings cross-disciplinary expertise in skin biology, ingredient innovation, and business development She holds a B S in Biochemistry and M S in Pharmaceutical Science with a concentration in Cosmetic Science from the University of Cincinnati.

Sustainable Active Ingredients Produced by Biotechnology

April 4, 2023

11:00 a.m. – 12:00 p.m.

For more infor mation, and to register for the event, visit the Events section of the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org).

Cosmetic ingredients based on rare, exotic, or even endangered plant species are of big interest to the cosmetic industry for two reasons Firstly, scientists believe that plants or microorganisms capable of growing in extreme conditions contain molecules that also offer very special effects to the skin. Secondly, marketing professionals like exotic plants as they can be used to create novel, appealing marketing stories for the consumers However, with the increasing demand for sustainable raw materials, the use of these rare and exotic plants is limited in the world of cosmetics. To overcome this problem, the application of biotechnology to produce biomass of these special plants or microorganisms in a sustainable way is gaining a lot of interest from the sector In our presentation, we will introduce a few exciting new technologies to generate biomass for active cosmetic ingredients sustainably.

n Featured Speaker – Fred Zuelli, Ph.D. (Mibelle Biochemistry)

Dr Fred Zuelli is the Business Development Director of Mibelle Biochemistry Switzerland, a business unit of Mibelle Group which develops and produces active ingredients for the personal care and food supplement industry He founded Mibelle Biochemistry 30 years ago and invented many patent-protected actives based on different technologies such as the plant stem cell technology (PhytoCellTec) He previously worked at the Nestle Research Centre in Switzerland His research focused on molecular biology and genetics of commercial baker’s yeast strains

Dr. Fred Zuelli studied Chemical Engineering at the Technical Engineering School of W interthur Switzerland and continued his studies at ETH in Zürich to study Molecular Biology and Biophysics In his Ph D thesis at ETH he investigated the ther mos-stability of bacterial enzymes Up until 2021, he was as Vice-President in the Swiss Society of Cosmetic Chemists and was responsible for the scientific program of the 2015 IFSCC Conference in Switzerland