Cosmetiscope March 2020 by NYSCC Webmaster

March 2020 • Vol. 26 • Issue 3

Phyto-complexes …by Giorgio Dell’Acqua

he quest for natural ingredients is growing alongside the increasing interest in phyto-cosmetics. Phyto in Greek means plant, so phyto-cosmetics are products based on natural plant extracts or containing predominantly ingredients derived from plants such as polyphenols, vitamins, etc. During my time working in ingredient development for the past 15 years, I have focused my attention on natural extracts, especially those rich in active molecules, preferably from the same chemical family.1,2 My grandfather introduced phyto-cosmetics in Italy in the early 1930s and I read some of his early publications. In particular, I was intrigued by how he described the power of ingredient families or phyto-complexes when compared to single ingredients from the same family. In the late 1950s, he published together with my uncle, at the time a young chemist in Milan, a paper on beta-carotene where he highlighted the capacity of carotenoids as a family to have a more powerful effect than single molecule beta-carotene on a series of skin benefits (beta carotene was used at the same concentration as the phyto-complex). We know that plants often mobilize different isoforms or variants of the same molecule to create a more effective and sophisticated response to a particular need. Molecule families are common and the different molecules within a family often work in synergy with each other. There is evidence that molecules belonging to the same family can protect each other against oxidation, thereby increasing the stability of the phyto-complex. It should be noted that phyto-complex is not a new definition or a new concept. However, renewed interest in using phytocomplexes in cosmetics requires understanding the importance of a multifactorial and synergistic approach when formulating a product. In the last 50 years, treatment of the skin has been based on a reductionist approach using single purified molecules (often compared to a plant extract with little efficacy). More recently, a comprehensive approach based on plant extract fractionation and enrichment has proven to be as effective as single molecules, and often more stable in finished formulations. Phyto-complexes are also the basis of modern aromatherapy, where complex composition of essential oils has been demonstrated to provide therapeutic values to treat conditions associated with diseases.3

Moreover, studies have shown that encapsulation of phytocomplexes provide an increase in wound healing efficacy.4 Interestingly, when single molecules were combined with their phyto-complex, the complex acted as an enhancer to increase molecule bioavailability, helping to stabilize the molecule itself.5 Numerous experiments have shown phyto-complexes to be superior to single molecules intended to reduce inflammation, autophagy, and apoptosis.4,5 For example, lycopene (a single carotenoid) is significantly inferior in antioxidant activity when compared to tomato seed phyto-complex.6,7 (continued on Page 3)

SKIN MICROBIOME: PERSPECTIVES ON AGING, COMPROMISED SKIN, AND COSMETICS M a r c h 1 2 t h • C h a r t H o u s e , We e h a w k e n , N J

2020 NYSCC EXECUTIVE BOARD & COMMITTEE Chair Giorgino Macalino gmacalin@estee.com

Chair-Elect Susanna Fernandes fernandes.susie@gmail.com Treasurer Stephen Carter treasurer@nyscc.org Treasurer-Elect Mohamed Abdulla treasurer-elect@nyscc.org Secretary Leor Fay Tal secretary@nyscc.org Advisor Sonia Dawson advisor@nyscc.org Program Maria Mo mo.maria.je@gmail.com By-Laws Amy Marshall amy.marshall@altana.com Communications Cathy Piterski cathy.piterski@givaudan.com Special Events Amy Marshall amy.marshall@altana.com Cosmetiscope Editor Roger Mcmullen roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu Cosmetiscope Advertising Bret Clark rbclark@ashland.com

Letter from the Chairman …Giorgino Macalino

OW! That’s about all I can say regarding the amazing start we’ve had in 2020! I am honored to lead such an incredible team! This team is producing record-breaking events that not only attract hundreds of attendees, but also create unmatched dialog and exchange that spur more ideas and confirm the need for programs addressing some of the hottest issues in personal care product development. February saw our first Social Program at Killington in Vermont: a joint venture with our sister, Long Island Chapter, that was spot-on in content and also bolstered networking and engagement that is the cornerstone of these events. On February 25th, we offered a new addition to our content library: INDIE 360 chaired by Luciana Coutinho. Almost 200 registrants crowded into the New York Academy of Sciences in Downtown Manhattan with the pains of being both a supplier and indie brand certainly addressed! Expect an even more lively exchange as we host INDIE 36O: An Experiential Immersion at Suppliers’ Day in May. Stay tuned for new components that will provide supplier-indie interaction like never before! The NYSCC participated in CEW’s Product Demo, which is the precursor to the iconic CEW BEAUTY AWARDS slated for June. NYSCC Suppliers’ Day is again the main sponsor of the CEW Supplier’s Award: Ingredients & Formulations. Dozens of innovators have made submissions and almost all are represented on the show floor at Suppliers’ Day. The winner of that category will be announced at the Awards Night Event scheduled for opening night of the show on Tuesday, May 5th. With Spring around the corner, we have even more programs on tap that really touch on the hottest topics in product formulation. Our next event, Skin Microbiome: Perspectives on Aging, Compromised Skin, and Cosmetics, will be held on March 12th at the Chart House. On April 8th, the NYSCC will host the Digital Algorithms of Beauty and Fragrance event at Legacy Castle. Then, of course, we have Suppliers’ Day in May, which is shaping up to be another record breaker. While events around the globe are impacting tradeshows, we can honestly say right now we are staying the course and monitoring all situations to present the safest environment for all stakeholders. Please stay tuned for announcements from the Show Management Team and, of course, should you have any questions, don’t hesitate to reach out: suppliersday@nyscc.org. I promise you that the educational content at Suppliers’ Day is bar-none the best yet, focusing on cannabis, regulatory, microbiome, fragrance, digitization, sustainability, wellness, and more. We have ensured that there are educational offerings for everyone before they even step foot on the show floor with hundreds of exhibitors and innovations covering 100,000 net square feet of contiguous exhibit space. The Future Chemists’ Workshop is back and colleges/students are being recruited as I write. Sponsors are welcome for this dynamic program. Contact suppliersday@nyscc.org if you have interest in exploring these opportunities. In closing, would like to thank some people behind the scenes who have been working hard to make our events record breakers: • Maria Mo – Program Committee • Cathy Piterski – Communications • Estelle Gu – Social Media • Suzanne Dawis – House/Venue Selection These are just a few…and I will continue to thank individuals (all volunteers!) who have made it their mission to ensure that the NYSCC does the very best in achieving the goal of expanding cosmetic chemistry through education and engagement. Please read through this entire issue of Cosmetiscope and mark your calendars for all the exciting upcoming SCC events! I am so looking forward to our future programs and seeing you there!

Social Media Estelle Gu socialmedia@nyscc.org

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Phyto-complexes

(continued from Page 1)

Finally, combination of phyto-complexes from different parts of the same plant was found to be superior to single plant part extracts when used for healing.8 In conclusion, evidence exists to support the use of phyto-complexes instead of single molecules from the same family. The use of phyto-cosmetics and phyto-complexes will grow in the years to come as more experimental evidence on their stability and efficacy become established.

References

1. S.N. Ebrahimi, F. Gafner, G. Dell’Acqua, K. Schweikert, and M. Hamburger, Flavone 8-Cglycosides from Haberlea rhodopensisFriv. (Gesneriaceae). Helv. Chim. Acta, 94(1), 38–45 (2011). 2. F. Germani and G. Dell’Acqua, An extract from blueberry processing by-product (press cake) inhibits blue light induced physiological changes and increases radiance in human skin. 25th IFSCC Conference, Milan, Italy (2019). 3. D. Scuteri, L.A. Morrone, L. Rombolà, P.R. Avato, A.R. Bilia, M.T. Corasaniti, S. Sakurada, T. Sakurada, and G. Bagetta, Aromatherapy and aromatic plants for the treatment of behavioural and psychological symptoms of dementia in patients with Alzheimer’s disease: clinical evidence and possible mechanisms, 9416305 (2017). 4. K. Moulaoui, C. Caddeo, M.L. Manca, I. Castangia, D. Valenti, E. Escribano, D. Atmani, A.M. Fadda, and M. Manconi, Identification and nanoentrapment of polyphenolic phytocomplex from Fraxinus angustifolia: in vitro and in vivo wound healing potential. Eur. J. Med. Chem., 89,179188 (2015). 5. D. Hasa, B. Perissutti, S. Dall’Acqua, M.R. Chierotti, R. Gobetto, I. Grabnar, C. Cepek, and D. Voinovich, Rationale of using Vinca minor Linne dry extract phytocomplex as a vincamine’s oral bioavailability enhancer. Eur. J. Pharm. Biopharm., 84(1), 138-144 (2013). 6. A. Lascala, C. Martino, M. Parafati, R. Salerno, M. Oliverio, D. Pellegrino, V. Mollace, and E. Janda. Analysis of proautophagic activities of citrus flavonoids in liver cells reveals the superiority of a natural polyphenol mixture over pure flavones. J. Nutr. Biochem., 58, 119-130 (2018). 7. A. Ettorre, S. Frosali, M. Andreassi, and A. DiStefano, Lycopene phytocomplex, but not pure lycopene, is able to trigger apoptosis and improve the efficacy of photodynamic therapy in HL60 human leukemia cells. Exp. Biol. Med. (Maywood), 235(9), 1114-1125 (2010). 8. L. Müller, A. Catalano, R. Simone, A. Cittadini, K. Fröhlich, V. Böhm, and P. Palozza, Antioxidant capacity of tomato seed oil in solution and its redox properties in cultured macrophages. J. Agric. Food Chem., 61(2), 346-354 (2013). 9. S.F. van Vuuren and A.M. Viljoen, In vitro evidence of phyto-synergy for plant part combinations of Croton gratissimus (Euphorbiaceae) used in African traditional healing, J. Ethnopharmacol., 119(3), 700-704 (2008).

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Giorgio Dell’Acqua, Ph.D.

About the Author…

iorgio is a cosmetic scientist and a consultant for the personal care industry. A graduate from the University of Rome, Italy, he worked for 15 years as an investigator in applied medical research at Mount Sinai Medical School in New York and Harvard Medical School in Boston. Moving to the private sector in 2000, he has spent the last 20 years as an executive and cosmetic scientist in the personal care industry. He specializes in skin and hair care ingredients, finished product development, and technical marketing. He has helped bring more than 200 successful active ingredients and finished products to market and has authored more than 60 publications in medicine and cosmetic science. In the last 10 years he has been writing and lecturing on natural cosmetic ingredients, sustainable supply chain, and helped sourcing, developing, and bringing to market many natural ingredients. Some of his recent product development activity has focused on food byproducts in cosmetics, treatment of skin with prebiotics and postbiotics, and adaptogens for skin and hair care. He is an award-winning speaker on natural ingredients and a regular columnist on sustainability and cosmetic science. He is also the chair of the Scientific Committee for the New York Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists.

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No. 3

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Skin Microbiome: Perspectives on Aging, Compromised Skin, and Cosmetics March 12th 8:30 a.m. – 4:15 p.m.

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9:00 – 9:15 a.m. Introductions – Aysel Calkap (DSM) and Sarah de Szalay (RB) 9:15 – 10:00 a.m. Engineering the Aging Skin Microbiome – Peter Larson (UCONN and The Jackson Laboratory for Genomic Medicine) 10:00 – 10:45 a.m. Cutaneous Microbiota, from Healthy to Compromised skin: How its Presence Affects Skin Physiology – Carine Mainzer (Silab) 10:45 – 11:00 a.m. Coffee Break 11:00 – 11:45 a.m. Fresh Insights Into the Skin Microbiome and Product Claims Essentials – Luciana Uttembergue/Carl D'Ruiz (DSM) 11:45 a.m. – 12:30 p.m. The Influence of Cosmetic Ingredients on the Skin Microbiota – Patrick Gonry (Gobiotics) 12:30 – 1:30 p.m. Lunch 1:30 – 2:15 p.m. Utilizing Fermentation Technology to Deliver Enhanced Skin Benefits and its Effect on the Microbiome – Steve Schnittger (Estée Lauder Companies) 2:15 – 3:00 p.m. Skin Microbiome in Cosmetic Benefit Space – Yuli Song (P&G Bioscience) 3:00 – 3:15 p.m. Coffee Break 3:15 – 4:00 p.m. The Host-Microbiota Axis in Skin Ageing and Repair – Matthew Hardman (Hull York Medical School) 4:00 – 4:15 p.m. Closing Remarks – Aysel Calkap (DSM) and Sarah de Szalay (RB)

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Speaker Abstracts and Biographies Engineering the Aging Skin Microbiome

– Peter Larson (UCONN Health – University of Connecticut and The Jackson Laboratory for Genomic Medicine)

ur skin plays host to millions of bacteria, fungi, and viruses that compose the human skin microbiota. These microorganisms perform a broad range of functions that affect skin health and diseases, including conveying resistance against pathogens and educating the cutaneous immune system. Despite being the most rapidly growing demographic in the U.S. and having greatly elevated risk for numerous skin diseases, adults over 65 have sparely been the subject of skin microbiome research. We present here the largest study of the older adult skin microbiome to date. We conducted a longitudinal microbiome survey of 57 older adults, sampling 8 skin sites over 3 time points per subject for whole metagenome shotgun sequencing. The skin microbiota of skilled nursing facility (SNF) residents exhibited decreased stability over time compared to healthy younger adults, suggesting susceptibility to colonization by new organisms. The skin microbiota of our SNF cohort exhibited substantially decreased levels of lipophages such as Cutibacterium acnes. While these findings may help explain the increased susceptibility to skin infections associated with age, it also suggests that aging skin may have a concordant increase in potential to benefit from topical microbial therapies. We have been developing engineered skin probiotics that can leverage this to deliver therapeutic advantages.

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n Peter Larson

Peter Larson is an MD-PhD candidate at the University of Connecticut (UCONN). He is currently completing his doctoral research as part of Julia Oh’s group at the Jackson Laboratory for Genomic Medicine. His background is in synthetic biology, which he is currently applying to leverage the human skin microbiome to promote health, prevent infections, and treat diseases. In the Oh lab, he has been engineering Staphylococcus epidermidis, a ubiquitous skin commensal, to detect and kill pathogens, as well as secrete therapeutics. He has also pioneered exploring the use of human skin explants and stem cell derived skin “organoids” to model human skin microbiome interactions in the laboratory. Finally, he has implemented a clinical metagenome study investigating the relationship between aging, health, and the microbiome. These data inform how we can leverage the microbiome to combat chronic illnesses, prevent infections commonly acquired by older adults in healthcare settings, and promote healthy aging. ____________________________________________________________

Cutaneous Microbiota, from Healthy to Compromised Skin: How its Presence Affects Skin Physiology

– Carine Mainzer (SILAB Inc.)

ince its discovery in the gut, the revolution of microbiota has been identified in various ecosystems, including the skin. It is now assumed that our skin hosts many microorganisms such as bacteria, yeasts, viruses, and even mites, which are essential to its beauty and health. That is why this theme is not a mere trend but a part of the cosmetic market’s landscape in the long term. In this context, we initiated an ambitious research program on the cutaneous microbiota that started three years ago with the creation of a microbiota platform dedicated to map the microbiota landscape of our skin through in vivo meta-sequencing, and to understand the relationships between the host and its microbiota by way of using culturomics-inspired techniques. One of our first studies focused on exploring the microbiota of healthy Western European female volunteers of two different age groups and see whether the changes that affect our skin during aging would also affect microbiota communities living on top of our skin. We found an age-related shift in the distribution of bacterial communities with a higher proportion of minor operation taxonomic units (OTUs) and Corynebacterium, and a decrease in Cutibacterium (formerly named Propionibacterium) on the skin of older individuals compared to younger participants. (continued on Page 6)

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No. 3

562-9 61-3333 Per sonalCareUS@omya.com

Skin Microbiome

(continued from Page 5)

The microbiota is dynamic and influenced by many different factors and notably the immune system. Different pieces of work have highlighted dysbiosis of the skin microbiota in inflammatory conditions, such as acne, a disease affecting 80% of teenagers and 25% of adults across the world. Because of its prevalence and as part of the strategy of SILAB Softcare, we next studied the microbiota of acneic patients. Skin swabs from both acneic and healthy patients were collected and analyzed through culturomics. In summary, this talk will introduce some of our work to approach and understand the cutaneous microbial landscape and behavior on healthy and compromised skin. We will also explain how these findings and associated models are the basis to support the development of natural dermo-cosmetic active ingredients dedicated to maintaining and/or restoring the balance of skin microbiota.

n Carine Mainzer, Ph.D.

Dr. Carine Mainzer joined SILAB Inc. in 2016 as a Scientific Support Manager, a position at the crossroads between academic and industrial research, where scientific and innovative ideas are applied to the field of personal care to support the development of natural active ingredients for healthy and compromised skin. In this search of breakthrough innovations, she works actively with universities to identify and develop sustainable partnerships throughout the U.S. Prior to joining SILAB Inc., Dr. Mainzer worked with Johnson & Johnson Consumer France and Natura. She has a background in tissue engineering, epidermal differentiation, and fellowship under the supervision of Dr. Peter Elias and Dr. Yoshikazu Uchida in the Department of Dermatology at the University of California, San Francisco. She has authored several peer-reviewed publications and blog articles for the New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC) and The Cosmetic Chemist. She has also given several presentations at dermatology and cosmetic conferences. She is part of the scientific committee of the NYSCC.

Fresh Insights into the Skin Microbiome and Product Claims Essentials

____________________________________________________________

– Luciana Uttembergue (DSM)

he current public discussion of the skin microbiome offers a great opportunity for the cosmetics industry in many ways. The positive attitude in general of consumers toward the benefits of such products as part of their daily diet is also helpful. However, providing the right messages to consumers will be crucial to generating interest in the subject in the long term and to converting today’s early approval into wide-ranging acceptance. In this presentation, I focus on possible ways to connect with consumers and discuss consumer preferences for specific product concepts. Finally, I will give an overview of our most recent clinical study.

n Luciana Uttembergue

Luciana, a Brazilian national, holds a degree in Chemistry and Cosmetics Technology from Oswaldo Cruz University and an Executive MBA from INSPER, both located in São Paulo, Brazil. She also has a degree in Pharmacy and Biochemistry and has more than 10 years of experience in the cosmetics industry. Luciana has been with DSM for 8 years, and in that time, she has been responsible for developing successful cosmetic projects. She is currently the Sr. Regional Technical Manager – DSM Personal Care North America. Prior to joining DSM, Luciana worked within the R&D Department of IFF (International Flavors and Fragrances). ____________________________________________________________

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Fresh Insights into the Skin Microbiome and Product Claims Essentials

– Carl D’Ruiz (DSM)

upport of microbiome product innovation from a regulatory, safety, and claims perspective is essential for helping emerging skin microbiome technologies and products to leap from trend to established business categories. This discussion will focus on the challenges associated with the rapidly evolving science of the microbiome and the need to establish reliable scientific data that validates and substantiates the safety, efficacy, and claims associated with skin microbiome-based products. A clear understanding of the existing and applicable regulatory frameworks governing these products based on intended use will also provide direction and clarity on how to provide consistent and clear product claims and messaging based on strong clinical and scientific evidence.

n Carl D’Ruiz

You need more information about our products? Please contact our subsidiary SILAB Inc.: email: silabinc@silabinc.com phone: 732-335-1030

engineering natural active ingredients

Mr. D'Ruiz is an accomplished regulatory leader with more than 20 years of experience in providing scientific and regulatory strategic direction for the global development, marketing, and sustainability of consumer and professional product brands. He has held key R&D, regulatory, quality, clinical, and scientific affairs positions at Ciba, Dial, Henkel, and Newell Rubbermaid. He is currently the Senior Manager of Regulatory and Governmental Affairs for Personal Care Products, NA at DSM Nutritional Products, LLC. He is regarded as a thought leader within the industry on the subject of topical OTC drugs, cosmetics, and personal care products and specializes in public health, regulatory, and scientific issues associated with topical sunscreens, antimicrobials, and skin cancer prevention. Mr. D'Ruiz holds a Master’s degree in Human and Environmental Health Science and Risk Management from Yale University and a Bachelor’s degree in Political Science and Biology from Fordham University. He also holds executive business certifications in bargaining, negotiations and strategic finance, and marketing from The Darden and Wharton Business Schools. He is a member of the Society of Toxicology.

The Influence of Cosmetic Ingredients on the Skin Microbiota

SILAB creates and manufactures unique, consistently safe, natural active ingredients with proven efficacy.

____________________________________________________________

– Patrick Gonry (Gobiotics Ingredients)

n this session, we provide a discovery presentation to the external influences on the skin microbiota. The following influences are demonstrated: temperature, UV radiation, and use of cosmetics. The surprising effect of cosmetic ingredients on the balance and diversity of the skin microbiota is demonstrated in vivo. We examined the influence of water, alcohol, preservatives, surfactants, and emulsifiers on skin microbiota. Based on these results, an attempt to define a balanced skin microbiota and healthy diversity is proposed. Special attention is also given to intimate and oral microbiota.

n Patrick Gonry

Patrick graduated as a Chemical Engineer at the University of Ghent, Belgium in 1991. Afterwards, he finished an intensive specialization in cosmetic manufacturing and obtained a degree in Dermato-cosmetic Science at the Medical University of Brussels. In 2001, he started the consultancy company, S&C, supporting cosmetic producers and raw material suppliers in product development, global legislation, and toxicology. Since 2002, his research and passion are dedicated to the skin microbiota, which has resulted in the launch of the first pre-biotic ingredient dedicated to baby care and intimate hygiene. He is the driving force behind many skin microbiota cosmetics in Europe. Through his latest company, Gobiotics Ingredients, he offers the industry scientific solutions to support skin microbiota claims. ______________________________________________________ (continued on Page 8)

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No. 3

Multi-pronged Fermentation Approach to Optimize Activity for Enhanced Skin Benefits

Skin Microbiome

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ermentation is a technology that utilizes a microorganism’s metabolic pathway to convert substances into functional ingredients and has been applied in various fields such as food and cosmetics. Along with consumer demands for efficacious and safe, yet greener and sustainable ingredients, there has been attention in the cosmetic industry on the use of fermentation to deliver such active ingredients and products. In the cosmetic industry, fermentation technology has been used widely for enabling plant extracts and other botanicals to achieve efficacious, high performing skin ingredients and products. The Estée Lauder Companies has conducted fermentation research for over 30 years, developing technology from the upstream fermentation development process to a downstream purification and isolation scheme, which gives us flexibility in ingredient customization and enhanced control over consistency, quality, and efficacy. We recently developed a new fermentation process that utilizes the indigenous bacteria found on macro-algae and developed it into a process that has created ingredients with enhanced efficacy and function. The efficacy of these ingredients in formulation has been proven in numerous clinical models and testing. This presentation will focus on how our fermentation platform has evolved into a multipronged approach to create highly functional, proprietary ingredients including bacterial metabolites, functional enzymes, and active ingredients, which are being used in both skin care, haircare, and makeup across each of our brands. This extensive experience in fermentation, utilizing a spectrum of bacteria, yeast, and mold, including many skin friendly bacteria such as Lactobacillus, Bifidus, and Saccharomyces, has given us deep insights into the area of probiotics and the potential role that bacteria play in skin health. Each of these points will be highlighted in this presentation.

n Steven F. Schnittger

Steve is an expert in microbiology, preservation, and fermentation. He has led the preservative, microbiological quality, and product integrity group for all formulae of the Estée Lauder Companies. He partners with Formulation, Safety, and Regulatory departments to ensure all products are safe and efficacious. In a new role, Steve is now responsible for the Estée Lauder Fermentation Department, which has been tasked with delivering new ingredients to continue to feed Estée Lauder’s innovation pipeline. Over the past 15 years this department has delivered a library of ingredients including antioxidants, whiteners, and postbiotics. Externally, Steve represents the U.S. cosmetic industry in the International Standards Organization (ISO), Cosmetics Europe, International Cooperation on Cosmetics Regulation (ICCR), International Association of Applied Corneotherapy (IAC), and Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) industry groups. Steve has a degree in Microbiology from Tulsa University in Oklahoma and has over 20 patents in the area of fermentation and preservation. He is recognized externally by the cosmetic industry and has given numerous lectures around the globe in the area of preservation, risk assessment, and fermentation. ____________________________________________________________

Skin Microbiome in Cosmetic Benefit Space – Yuli Song (P&G Bioscience)

here is a growing consumer and scientific interest in the use of microbiomederived technologies for skin health interventions. We believe it is important to understand the role of the skin microbiome in skin health and beauty and to develop mechanistic-based product innovation that can deliver superior skin benefits to consumers. Many lines of evidence associate skin diseases, such as atopic dermatitis and psoriasis, with an imbalance of the microbiome, known as dysbiosis. Our studies on normal healthy skin indicate that the skin microbiome composition changes with aging and skin physiological conditions. However, there is a knowledge gap on the skin microbiome’s functional role in cosmetic skin benefit space. Our clinical study suggests the normal residential skin microbiome may be resilient to some topical antimicrobial disturbance, even 8

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though certain antibiotics can significantly alter the skin microbiome, whereas antiseptics may have a smaller, less durable impact.

n Yuli Song, Ph.D.

Dr. Yuli Song is currently a leading microbiome Principal Scientist working at the Bioscience organization at P&G. Dr. Song joined P&G in 2006 where her R&D role has been focusing on understanding the microbiome for the Beauty Care, Oral Care, Feminine Care, Fabric and Home Care, and Baby Care businesses. She holds a Ph.D. from Gifu University Medical School (Japan) and completed her postdoctoral fellowship under the supervision of Dr. Sydney Finegold, a world renowned infectious disease physician/microbiologist at UCLA and served as Dr. Finegold’s lab director at VA Medical Center, Greater Los Angeles prior to joining P&G. She has authored over 40 peer-reviewed publications and book chapters and performed several presentations at conferences. ____________________________________________________________

The Host-Microbiota Axis in Skin Ageing and Repair – Mat Hardman (Hull York Medical School)

ur skin is “home” to a multitude of microorganisms, collectively termed the skin microbiota. While existing studies have meticulously explored the role of gut microbiota in health and disease, far less information is available on the significance of skin microbiota in physiology and pathology. Amidst the demographics of an ageing population, age is a well-known contributory factor to skin disease and poor acute healing, and a primary risk factor in the etiology of chronic wounds. Research in this area has historically focused on the contribution of structural and functional changes in the skin (host tissue) to pathology, while age-associated changes in the skin microbiota have been largely ignored. Research from our group and others has highlighted the extensive cross-talk between the skin microbiota and host skin cell, which ultimately directs skin physiology. In this talk I will provide an update on current understanding of the contribution of skin microorganisms to skin biology and pathology. I will focus on the effects of ageing and diabetes on skin function and dysfunction (including ineffective repair). I will argue that successful development of effective interventions in this area will require a detailed understanding of the host-microbiota axis, underpinned by emerging “omics” and powerful new sequencing technologies.

n Matthew Hardman, Ph.D.

Professor Mat Hardman is Chair in Skin Biology and Wound Repair and Director of Research at the Hull York Medical School in the UK. He has 25 years of experience in the field of skin biology with a specific focus on skin ageing and wound healing. Mat trained at the University of Manchester (UK) where he was one of only two researchers nationally to be awarded consecutive Junior and Senior AgeUK Fellowships in Ageing research. He established his own research group in 2007 and was promoted to Reader in 2016. Mat is former Director of the Manchester EPSRC and MRC Centre for Doctoral Training in Regenerative Medicine and spent 3 years as Research Director in the School of Life Sciences. Current interests in the group include: exploring the complex interactions between the skin microbiota and host response, particularly in the context of ageing wound repair; characterizing the effects of ageing and menopause on skin structure and function; exploring the role of hair follicles and stem cells in skin biology and repair; and developing more predictive pre-clinical models for skin and wound research. ____________________________________________________________

Registration

Pre-Registration

At Door

SCC Members

$35

$70

Non-SCC Members

$75

$110

Students/Unemployed

$10

$50

Complimentary

$40

Emeritus Members

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Location

Chart House

Lincoln Harbor, Pier D-T, 1700 Harbor Boulevard, Weehawken, NJ Tel: (201) 348-6628 To register, please visit the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org) and visit the Events section.

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No. 3

Suppliers’ Day, the North American Event for Product Developments’ Revolutionary Disrupters

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n an industry that is constantly innovating and evolving, there is one constant, the NYSCC Suppliers’ Day, May 5-6, at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center in New York City. No other event in North America provides the latest trends, scientific findings, global ingredients, raw materials, and solutions that will invigorate formulations and accelerate beauty and personal care product development.

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From end-to-end of the Javits Center, the “Revolutionary Disruptors” that are impacting the traditional way of sourcing and the entire product development cycle will be discussed, experienced, and on full display. Learn how these disruptors are impacting the traditional way of sourcing and the entire product development cycle and be immersed in game changing new ideas, networking opportunities, and business-building. Suppliers’ Day this year will feature 80+ individual conference sessions and curated educational programs, with 550+ exhibitors attracting more than 10,000 attendees representing 69+ countries. Dynamic areas on the expansive show floor will provide enhanced experiential learning including the classic Future Chemists Workshop, Presentation Theater—The Main Stage, and the return of the Innovations Hub & Theater, as well as “tour” of INDIE 360 Accelerator activations.

n New Educational Programs Featuring Disrupting Trends

The emergence of CBD as a hot ingredient and its interest amongst consumers for its well-being and therapeutic properties will be explored in a full-day “Cannabis and Cosmetic Industry” conference. On Tuesday, May 5th representatives from the National Hemp Association as well as leading formulators, suppliers, lawyers, forecasters, and regulators will discuss everything from sourcing to legal, regulatory, market analysis, and future trends. A highlight will be a panel presentation featuring established beauty brands sharing their experiences navigating this ever-changing environment. The “Lunch & Learn Disruptors Series” will provide fresh content on topics that are top of mind in the product development process. Color Cosmetics with an insightful presentation by leading color experts and strategists will have everyone seeing “red” on May 5th. Hair…Trends & Color featuring Strands and their revolutionary achievements in personalizing hair treatments for consumers will be the topic on day two. Presentations on sensory hair care and color will also be included in this Lunch & Learn on May 6th. INDIE 360: An Experiential Immersion will focus on every angle of the business and bring together independent brand founders sharing their stories and experiences including the challenges, opportunities, and pathways to success. Spate will present the current trends in the market and presentations on consumer demand for innovative ingredients will help entrepreneurs effectively and efficiently navigate the waters. The experiential component to INDIE 360 will take place on the show floor with supplier accelerator programs as the focus. This is an exciting and must-attend program for all involved in new product development. 10

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n Core Programs with a Relevant Twist

Hallmarks of the Suppliers’ Day educational program will return with updated content that are designed to help those involved in formulations, sourcing, and marketing beauty and personal care products to achieve their business objectives including: Fragrance: The Invisible Art, an all-day in-depth program that brings together experts and perspectives that include the formulator, perfumer, marketer, and product development lead: the key players in creating the “invisible art”. Essential Elements of Cosmetic Regulation, Safety Assessment, and Quality Assurance, organized by PCPC (Personal Care Products Council) in collaboration with IKW, a leading European Association for German Cosmetic, Toiletry, Perfumery, and Detergent, will provide unmatched guidance on the fundamentals of global regulatory, safety, and product quality requirements. Attendees will learn the essential elements in assuring the successful development and marketing of personal care products across many regions. Microbiome: Inside Out Beauty will return as microbiome and biogenetic technologies continue to dominate the landscape. Discussions will include different perspectives including a leading dermatologist’s insight on microbiome health and how understanding the culmination of all environmental exposure the body faces from birth onward, known as the exposome, impacts new product development. Discover Sustainability features quick, but powerful presentations focused on clean beauty, green formulation, bio-based and cradle-to-cradle certifications, ethical sourcing, and more. Presenters include representatives from leading companies successfully implementing these initiatives. Digital Age of Beauty focuses on current strategies and innovations that influence product development and speed to market. A featured presenter will be Google speaking on trends and analytics being the key to future product development. The latest digital tools and techniques that drive, measure and analyze consumer engagement will also be presented. World of Chemistry, sponsored by Personal Care Magazine, examines global sourcing and trends with a kick-off presentation by Mintel and will share forecasts and developments from specific regions including Latin and South America, Europe, and Asia. Innovation Hub & Theater returns and is open to all attendees and features ingredients, formulations, and solutions that are transforming and impacting product development—many making their North American debuts. Highlights of this destination area include the opportunity to see, feel, and touch the CEW Supplier’s Award finalists’ solutions, deemed revolutionary by the judges from esteemed brands, and hear their stories at the CEW Finalists Session featured in the Hub Theater. An Innovations’ highlight will be Wellness and Mindfulness session. The Show Floor Presentation Theater, THE MAIN STAGE, is complimentary to all attendees, and provides insightful, leading-edge supplier presentations and interactive talks.

n Revolutionary Networking, Show Floor Experiences, and Educating the Next Generation of Chemists

The popular Future Chemists Workshop (FCW) is now a national event attracting chapter participation from across the country! FCW will provide invited university students insight on how to be a Cosmetic Chemist through a challenge-based tutorial and practical workshop. The MENTOR/MENTEE Exchange Program that launched at Suppliers’ Day 2019 will return and is helping to bridge connections between both young and experienced professionals in the beauty and personal care industry. The program fosters interaction between students, graduate students, junior chemists, and senior executives and also provides reverse mentorship opportunities. New this year on May 6th will be LUXEPACK Cross-Over Day. LUXEPACK, a leading creative packaging trade show, is taking place for the first time at the Javits Center. Suppliers’ Day badges will be honored at the event for a full supply chain experience. A two-part end-to-end presentation demonstrating sourcing to shelf will be showcased between the two shows and will incorporate sourcing ingredients, formulation, packaging design, and packaging/delivery systems. Celebrate the industry, renew partnerships, create new ones, and be there when the winner is announced for the NYSCC sponsored CEW Supplier’s Award: Ingredients & Formulation at the NYSCC Industry Awards Night on May 5th. This night is truly a celebration of important drivers of innovation that is the revolutionary spirit of Suppliers’ Day.

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n Pre- and Post-Suppliers’ Day Learning from SCC and ICMAD

Kicking off “Revolutionary Disruptors” will be three SCC CEP Pre-Show Courses on May 4th that include full-day programs on Sustainable Cosmetic Product Development, Essential Cosmetic Raw Materials, and Patents: A Practical Introduction. The ICMAD FDA Cosmetics Regulations Workshop will take place at the Javits Center on May 7th and provides cosmetic and personal care industry professionals with the necessary regulatory and safety updates. Government representatives, industry experts, and ICMAD officials will inform attendees about sector updates including expert assessments on the latest issues that have captured the attention of consumers, regulators, and industry.

n Join the Revolution: Registration is Now Open

Participation in Suppliers’ Day educational programs coupled with planned, show floor participation will provide the most comprehensive view of the industry from bench to consumer. Register online today for Suppliers’ Day at www.nyscc.org/suppliers-day and experience the “disruptors” that will “revolutionize” your professional and business development.

THE ONL ONLY LYY SHO SHOW W SERVING YYOUR OUR NEED NEEDSS IN THE BEA BEAUTY UTY CAPIT CAPITAL AL OF THE W WORLD ORLD – NYC! NYC!

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Digital Algorithms of Beauty and Fragrance

April 8th 11:30 a.m. – 4:30 p.m. The Legacy Castle Pompton Plains, NJ

BEAUTY

begins here.

his meeting will focus on the impact of augmented reality (AR), artificial intelligence (AI), big data, algorithms, and partnerships between and fragrance and personal care companies with computer or digital marketing specialists to design innovative products and meet specific market needs.

Event Chair: Steve Herman

Agenda

11:30 a.m. – 12:00 p.m. Registration 12:00 – 1:00 p.m. Lunch 1:00 – 1:45 p.m. Fragrance Innovation Through Artificial Intelligence – Laura Coelho (Symrise) 1:45 – 2:30 p.m. Building a Predictive Model for Skin Care – Sid Salvi (Atolla) 2:30 – 2:45 p.m. Break 2:45 – 3:30 p.m. Big Data and Analytics – Professor Sourav Dutta (Ramapo College of New Jersey) 3:30 – 4:15 p.m. Mascara Development Using the Genius Algorithm – Candice DeLeo Novack (Avon) 4:15 – 4:30 p.m. Chapter Announcements

Registration

Pre-Registration Cost

At Door Cost

SCC Members

$35

$70

Non-SCC Members

$75

$110

Students/Unemployed

$10

$50

Complimentary

$40

Emeritus Members

To register, please visit the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org) and visit the Events section. _____________________

Location

The Legacy Castle 141 NJ-23 Pompton Plains, NJ Tel: (973) 907-7750

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Safe, sustainable, bio-based ingredients for personal care. GO

Middle" Atlantic Regional Meeting 2020 " " " "

" " " " June 12, 2020 "

www.marm2020.org

THE GRADUATE CENTER

CITY UNIVERSITY OF NEW YORK

" "

" " " " " " "

" " "

A mini-MARM sponsored by " ) " the ) New "York Local Section ' ' ' ' " Center of the " Chemical " " Society " " at ' the "Graduate " American " ' of " '" " ''''' " New York. " " " " " of the "City University

! ' ' 'Science The NYSCC is partnering ) ) with MARM for the Cosmetic ' ' ' ' ' ' session. ' SCC members and Chemistry are welcome to the event ' ' ' and the call for' abstracts is open. Please submit abstracts on " """!:$)+%"J0):+*G"2 """ " ' ''''' " " (www.marm2020.org). the MARM website "

' ' MARM' 20/20 Cosmetic Science' Session

_____________________________________________________________________________ " "" N,$9%">$/%-0G"/ "

Program Chair: Giorgio Dell’Acqua, giorgio_dellacqua@hotmail.com n The Use of" Color "Effect Pigments – Gino Macalino (Estée Lauder)

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n Natural Ingredients and Supply Chain (Part 1) – Giorgio Dell’Acqua (NYSCC) n Natural Ingredients and Supply Chain (Part 2) – Noreza Papin (Lab Expanscience) n Cosmetic Testing – Mike Anthonavage (CRL/Eurofins) n Cosmetic Industry Regulations and Compliance – Marie Thadal (Coptis) n Delivery Systems – Roger L. McMullen (FDU) n Sunscreens and Sun Protection – Hani Fares (Ashland) n Sensory of Cosmetics: Fragrance – Steve Herman (University of Cincinnati) n Sensory of Cosmetics: Texture – John Chase (Botaneco) n Cosmetic Preservation Systems – Ingrid Chirico (Schülke & Mayr) 14

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Symposium Topics Flavor and Fragrance Chemistry • Cosmetic Chemistry Environmental Chemistry • Forensic Chemistry Chemistry of Life Sciences • Materials Chemistry

Featuring Career Services • Chemagination • Exposition Senior Chemist’s Luncheon • Awards Banquet

_____________________________________________________________________________

General Chairs: Alison Hyslop, hyslopa@stjohns, edu Joseph Serafin, serafinj@stjohns.edu Program Chair: Brian Gibney, bgibney@gc.cuny.edu

_____________________________________________________________________________

ACT NOW for recognition at the ACS – Middle Atlantic Regional Meeting (MARM) Symposium • June 12, 2020 This symposium is organized by the American Chemical Society (ACS) and will include a cosmetic science session organized by the New York Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC). The NYSCC is looking for submissions in cosmetic chemistry and cosmetic science for the poster presentation at the symposium. Abstract submission closes on March 16th. Abstract guidelines and submission forms can be found on the event website (www.marm2020.org). NYSCC scholarships will be available for students to attend the symposium and presenters will be selected to receive the scholarships.

Registration before May 1st: Attendance fee will be $80 for SCC members (or $45 for students), which includes lunch.

Registration after May 1st: Attendance fee will be $100 for SCC members (or $50 for students), which includes lunch.

So SAVE THE DATES to attend…and START YOUR ABSTRACT NOW!

Exhibitors and Sponsors are encouraged to participate.

_____________________________________________________________________________

Questions: nyscc.org/contact/ Reason for Contacting: MARM — Abstracts, Exhibitors, and Sponsorships

Call for Papers

he Cosmetiscope editorial committee invites all interested parties to submit feature technical articles for publication in the NYSCC monthly newsletter. Authors of feature articles are eligible to win the prestigous NYSCC Literature Award ($1,000) for the best front-page article published during the calendar year. Authors also receive $200 reimbursement to attend a theatrical performance of their choice. Writing an article for your peers is a very rewarding experience, both personally and professionally, and will ensure your place in NYSCC history. You may choose whatever topic you feel would be interesting to fellow colleagues in our industry. We also welcome any other types of commentaries or articles that may be published in the Career Corner, Technical Tidbit section, or as a Letter to the Editor. Please send correspondence to: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu.

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2020 NYSCC Events Calendar

• For updated NYSCC information, visit us on the web at: www.nyscc.org • For National SCC information: www.scconline.org March 12 Skin Microbiome: Perspectives on Aging, Comprised Skin and Cosmetics – Chart House, Weehawken, NJ April 8 Digital Algorithms of Beauty and Fragrance – The Legacy Castle, Pompton Plains, NJ May 5-6 NYSCC Suppliers’ Day – Jacob K. Javits Convention Center, New York, NY June 12 ACS – Cosmetic Science Symposium – CUNY, New York, NY June 23 Sensory with Sensory Spectrum Boat Trip – Atlantis Yacht, Jersey City, NJ July 27 Golf Outing – Crystal Springs Resort, Hamburg, NJ

August 12 Sun Care Symposium – Seasons Catering, Washington Township, NJ September 23 Color Cosmetics – Color Trend Forecast – Lightbox, New York, NY October 1 Culinary Event – The Mansion at Natirar, Peapack, NJ October 13 Effect Pigments – Nanina’s in the Park, Belleville, NJ November 18 Beyond Hair Care and Officer Installation – Brooklyn Botanical Garden, Brooklyn, NY December 15 NYSCC Supports Education Night 2020 – TBD

NYSCC Sponsorship Opportunities The NYSCC Sponsorship Committee is proud to invite interested parties to sponsor NYSCC educational events throughout the year. Sponsorship Committee:

Yelena Zolotarsky (yelenazol@gmail.com) and Daphne Benderly (dbenderly@presperse.com) For more information, please visit: http://nyscc.org/sponsorship-opportunities/

Employment Opportunities

For complete ads please go to the NYSCC website: www.nyscc.org.

n Technical Services Representative Kinetic • Hazlet, NJ

n Inside Sales/Application Champion – Cosmetics Netzsch Premier Technologies, LLC • Exton, PA

n Inside Sales & Marketing Coordinating Paradigm Science • Annandale, NJ

n Senior Analyst – Regulatory The Estée Lauder Companies • Melville, NY

n Quality Manager Green Line Ingredients • Hazlet, NJ

n Principal Analyst – Regulatory The Estée Lauder Companies • Melville, NY

n Regional Sales Manager Tagra Amerilure • Piscataway, NJ

n Sales Manager – Natural Active Ingredients Greentech • Mid-Atlantic Region

n North America Account Manager – Personal Care BASF • Chicago, IL 16

n Regulatory and Compliance Coordinator Paradigm Science • Annandale, NJ

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