APRIL 2019 • Vol. 25 No. 4
New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists
www.nyscc.org
Coffee and its Role in Skin Care
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…by Roger L. McMullen
n a recent trip to Spain, I made my way to a local pharmacy in search of sun care lotion to relieve my skin from the illeffects of the powerful ultraviolet rays of the sun. With the exception of sun care products and a very limited selection of skin care creams, the pharmacies in Spain are dedicated almost exclusively to over-the-counter and prescription medications—not like drug stores in the United States, which are replete with everything from cute stuffed penguins to chocolate hearts for Valentine’s Day. Nevertheless, I was surprised to find a coffee machine at the entrance of the Spanish pharmacy with a banner above describing beauty coffee capsules that contained reishi mushrooms and several other ingredients including collagen. At first, I was a bit surprised, and skeptical, by the claim that oral consumption of coffee could be beneficial for the skin. However, after a little bit of searching, I found some interesting studies demonstrating the beneficial effects of coffee on the skin—when taken either orally or administered topically. Body/facial scrubs, eye creams, cellulitis products, moisturizing creams, and soaps containing coffee have been all the rage in the skin care arena. To better understand the claims surrounding the use of such products, I decided to take a careful look at the scientific literature. More than likely, a great deal of interest in using coffee in skin care products stems from the effects of caffeine on skin biochemistry and physiology, in which case it has been shown to prevent accumulation of fat in the skin, act as a photo-protectant against UV radiation, and assist in drainage of lymphatic tissue. It should be pointed out, however, that many of these findings come from studies of cell culture systems or animal models—not human clinical data.1 In addition to the effects of topical treatment of caffeine on the skin, much interest was generated by several large-scale epidemiology studies that demonstrated a positive correlation between coffee
consumption and decreased incidence of nonmelanoma skin carcinomas.2,3 In a study of more than 90,000 Caucasian women, an inverse association was found between coffee consumption and incidence of nonmelanoma skin cancer.3 Women who drink coffee on a daily basis were almost 11% less likely to develop nonmelanoma skin cancer. Drinking six or more cups of coffee was associated with a 36% reduction in nonmelanoma skin cancer. These effects were
not found in women who drink decaffeinated coffee, which could indicate that caffeine is the key ingredient involved. It could also suggest that decaffeination processes, such solvent extraction, might remove beneficial ingredients from the coffee. As already noted, there has been a great deal of interest in utilizing green coffee oil in cosmetic applications. This oil is obtained by cold pressing green (unroasted) coffee beans. Researchers from several universities in Brazil—the largest coffee producing country in the world—have shown that administration of green coffee oil to (Continued on page 4)
C O L O R C O S M E T I C S : F R O M B E N C H T O A P P L I C AT I O N April 25 • Grand Summit Hotel, Summit, NJ
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2019 NYSCC BOARD OF DIRECTORS & PROGRAM CHAIRS CHAIR Sonia Dawson chair@nyscc.org
CHAIR-ELECT Gino Macalino chair-elect@nyscc.org
TREASURER Stephen Carter treasurer@nyscc.org
TREASURER-ELECT Mohamed Abdulla treasurer-elect@nyscc.org
SECRETARY Roumelia Alina-Balbastro secretary@nyscc.org
ADVISOR Cathy Piterski advisor@nyscc.org
HOUSE Suzanne Dawis house@nyscc.org
MEMBERSHIP Open Position
PROGRAM Susanna Fernandes fernandes.susie@gmail.com
COMMUNICATIONS Andrea Gafford webmaster@nyscc.org
SPECIAL EVENTS Amy Marshall amy.marshall@altana.com
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Letter from the Chair
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…Sonia Dawson
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onjour! I am writing to you from In-Cosmetics in Paris, the precursor to our own record-breaking global event scheduled for May 7th-8th at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center! We are excited to report that the NYSCC Suppliers’ Day attendee/buyer pre-registration is tracking 10% ahead of 2018! The same can be said for the exposition space, where we have grown from three to four halls at the convention center! Records continue to be the theme for the NYSCC this year. The March 13th “Cosmetic Science in Academia” program at The Bethwood in Totowa was unprecedented. The event focused on education and brought together students with industry executives to further our overarching mission of learning, engagement, and networking. Many thanks go to Steve Herman for pulling together this extraordinary program. We attracted over 70 attendees, including students and academicians from six colleges and universities presenting on programs in cosmetic science and hosting a poster session. The March event was also the perfect prelude to our mentoring program, which will launch at Suppliers’ Day in May. Spearheaded by Eileen Kim, Principal Research Scientist at Chanel, the program is designed to help students, graduate students, and junior NYSCC members understand the many different jobs, career paths, and industry sectors within cosmetic chemistry and the different types of companies that are involved in overall product development. Stay tuned for more details on this exciting program. Our next symposium will take place on April 25th at the Grand Summit Hotel in Summit, NJ. “Color Cosmetics: From Bench to Application” will demonstrate the processes of and relationship between product development, qualification, and consumer application. Organized by Sophia Chen and Nadine Dewdney, the program will feature color cosmetics and technical experts, as well as Karen Dupiche, fourtime Emmy award-winning makeup artist from “The View,” who will conclude the event with product applications and a makeup demo. It’s hard to believe that we are almost at the mid-point of the year and that our next issue of the Cosmetiscope will focus on Suppliers’ Day. Showcasing the “Evolution of Beauty,” Suppliers’ Day is poised to offer the most innovative solutions currently available across the globe and will feature more than 70 hours of educational programming, nearly 500 exhibitors, and thousands of attendees/buyers representing 60+ countries. Specialty areas on the show floor include the Future Chemists Workshop, Presentation Theater, Innovation Hub and Theater, and a live retrospective of the Evolution of Beauty! If you haven’t registered to attend, please do so today. Plan to also join us at Awards Night – Stage 48 on the first night of Suppliers’ Day! We are extremely proud to sponsor the CEW Supplier’s Award: Ingredients and Formulations. The six CEW Supplier’s Award finalists are: BASF Colors and Effects, Catalent Cosmetics, Croda Inc., Dupont, KOBO Products Inc., and The Dow Chemical Company. The winner will be announced at the Awards Night event. Please keep abreast of the latest updates on the Suppliers’ Day website and know, without a doubt, that this is the must-attend North American exposition! I hope to see you at the upcoming April program, and of course at Suppliers’ Day! As you can see, our offerings as a chapter continue to expand, the networking is unmatched, and the ability to become involved and influence the trajectory of your career is real. Get involved! I would love to hear from you. Sonia Dawson, NYSCC Chair • E-mail: chair@nyscc.org
COSMETISCOPE EDITOR Roger McMullen roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu
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COSMETISCOPE ASSISTANT EDITOR Susan Doose sbdoose@googlemail.com
COSMETISCOPE ADVERTISING Bret Clark rbclark@ashland.com
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FACEBOOK: NEW YORK SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS
LINKED IN: NEW YORK SCC
TWITTER: @NYSCC
INSTAGRAM: NYSCCMAIN
These connections are possible by the NYSCC Social Media Committee A P R I L
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BEAUTY
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Upcoming 2019 NYSCC Events Calendar • For updated NYSCC information, visit us on the web at: www.nyscc.org • For National SCC information: www.scconline.org April 25 Color Cosmetics: From Bench to Application, Grand Summit Hotel, Summit, NJ May 7-8 NYSCC Suppliers’ Day, Jacob K. Javits Convention Center, New York, NY
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(Continued from page 1)
fibroblast cultures results in the upregulation of collagen, elastin, and glycosaminoglycans as well as growth factors, such as transforming growth factor-β1 (TGF-β1) and granulocyte-macrophage colony-stimulating factor (GM-CSF).4 In addition, results from the same research team demonstrated an increase in aquaporin levels due to green coffee oil treatment in keratinocyte cell cultures. Green coffee oil contains lipids that consist of triacylglycerols, sterols, and tocopherols in addition to diterpenes, which have important pharmacological properties.5 Recent work reported in the literature focuses on the solar protection properties of green coffee oil and the oil fraction of spent coffee grounds.6-8 In sunscreen systems containing ethyhexylmethoxycinnamate, the addition of green coffee oil provided an increase of 20% in sun protection factor.6 Vegetable oils, typically found in cosmetics, contain large amounts of unsaturated fatty acids, which are susceptible to lipid oxidation. Microencapsulation is a viable strategy of protecting oils from environmental insults such as autoxidation, photooxidation, and thermal oxidation. Unsurprisingly, the encapsulation of green coffee oil was found to improve its efficacy, probably due to increased protection of the oil from the elements.7
References
SPECIALTY SILICONES
1. L. Luo and M.E. Lane, Topical and transdermal delivery of caffeine, Int. J. Pharm., 490, 155-164 (2015). 2. F. Song, A.A. Qureshi, and J. Han, Increased caffeine intake is associated with reduced risk of basal cell carcinoma of the skin, Cancer Res., 72, 3282-3289 (2012). 3. E.L. Abel, S.O. Hendrix, S.G. McNeeley, K.C. Johnson, C.A. Rosenberg, Y. Mossavar-Rahmani, M. Vitolins, and M. Kruger, Daily coffee consumption and prevalence of nonmelanoma skin cancer in Caucasian women, Eur. J. Cancer Prev., 16, 446-452 (2007). 4. M. del Carmen Velazquez Pereda, G. de Campos Dieamant, S. Eberlin, C. Nogueira, D. Colombi, L.C. Di Stasi, and M.L. de Souza Queiroz, Effect of green Coffea arabica L. seed oil on extracellular matrix components and water-channel expression in in vitro and ex vivo human skin models, J. Cosmet. Dermatol., 8, 56-62 (2009). 5. K. Speer and I. Kölling-Speer, The lipid fraction of the coffee bean, Braz. J. Plant Physiol., 18, 201-216 (2006). 6. B. Galdorfini Chiari, E. Trovatti, E. Pecoraro, M. Antonio Corrêa, R.M. Barretto Cicarelli, S.J. Lima Ribeiro, and V.L. Borges Isaac, Synergistic effects of green coffee oil and synthetic sunscreen for health care application, Ind. Crops Prod., 52, 389-393 (2014). 7. A.B.F.L. Nosari, J.F. Lima, O.A. Serra, and L.A.P. Freitas, Improved green coffee oil antioxidant activity for cosmetical purpose by spray drying microencapsulation, Rev. Bras. Farmacogn., 25, 307-311 (2015). 8. J. Marto, L.F. Gouveia, B.G. Chiari, A. Paiva, V. Isaac, P. Pinto, P. Simões, A.J. Almeida, and H.M. Ribeiro, The green generation of sunscreens: Using coffee industrial sub-products, Ind. Crops Prod., 80, 93-100 (2016). This article originally appeared in TheCosmeticChemist.com. Reproduced with permission by the publisher. Copyright (2017), The Cosmetic Chemist, LLC.
About the Author:
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r. Roger L. McMullen has over 20 years of experience in the personal care industry with specialties in optics, imaging, and spectroscopy of hair and skin. Currently, he is Principal Scientist in the Measurement Science department at Ashland Specialty Ingredients. Roger received a B.S. in Chemistry from Saint Vincent College and completed his Ph.D. in Biophysical Chemistry at Seton Hall University. Roger actively engages and participates in educational activities in the personal care industry. He is also an Adjunct Professor at Fairleigh Dickinson University and teaches Biochemistry to students pursuing M.S. degrees in Cosmetic Science and Pharmaceutical Chemistry. Prior to pursuing a career in science, Roger served in the U.S. Navy for four years on board the USS YORKTOWN (CG 48), a guided missile cruiser—one of the first ships with the Aegis Combat System.
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NYSCC Awards Night …in collaboration with the CEW for the Beauty Awards 2019 May 7, 2019 • 9:00 p.m. – 1:00 a.m. Stage 48 605 W 48th Street, New York, NY
Come celebrate with us after the 40th Annual Suppliers’ Day
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he NYSCC is hosting its 3rd Awards Night and first event in collaboration with the CEW for the Beauty Awards 2019. This year, the theme of Suppliers' Day is “Evolution of Beauty.”
Don’t miss out on an unforgettable evening as we partner up with the CEW to sponsor the 2019 CEW Beauty Awards. Similar to the Academy Scientific and Technical Awards, a curated panel of judges from leading beauty and personal care brands will come together to select a finalist for the Supplier’s Award: Ingredients and Formulation. The winner will be announced in conjunction with Suppliers’ Day at the annual Awards Night on May 7th and will also be recognized at the CEW Beauty Awards luncheon on May 17th at the New York Hilton. In honor of the 40th anniversary of Supplier’s Day, this year’s Awards Night will be a flashback to the 1980s. Come dressed in your best 80s attire and join us at Stage 48 for an event you won’t want to miss! For inquiries, please contact Giorgino Macalino at awards@nyscc.org.
ENJOY SUCCESSFUL PARTNERSHIPS Brenntag Specialties, Inc. 1 Cragwood Road, Suite 302 South Plainfield, NJ 07080 Phone: 800 732-0562 Fine Ingredients, Minerals, Colors, Surface Treatments, Proteins, Powders
www.brenntagspecialties.com
Registration (open now until May 1, 2019) Standard Rate: • $85.00/per person (member/non-member) • $125.00/per person (on-site pricing) Attire: smart casual Theme: totally 80s
Help us show appreciation to our members by joining us as an event sponsor! For more information on sponsorship levels contact: c.s.ladouceur@gmail.com. Sponsorships are limited, so register ASAP to ensure your place as a sponsor! V O L U M E
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Color Cosmetics: From Bench to Application April 25 • 8:00 a.m. – 2:00 p.m. Grand Summit Hotel, Summit, NJ
Event Chairs: Sophia Chen – historian@nyscc.org Nadine Dewdney – nadine.dewdney@gmail.com
Event Agenda 8:30 – 9:00 a.m. Registration and Breakfast 9:15 – 9:30 a.m. Opening Remarks 9:30 – 10:30 a.m. Product Development and Formulation – Balanda Atis (L’Oréal USA) 10:30 – 10:40 a.m. Break 10:40 – 11:40 a.m. Qualification and Heavy Metal Testing Updates – Francine Walker (Chemical Solutions Ltd.) 11:40 a.m. – 1:00 p.m. Lunch 1:00 – 1:45 p.m. Application and Makeup – Karen Dupiche (Emmy award-winning makeup artist from “The View”) 1:45 – 2:00 p.m. Closing Remarks
Speaker Biographies
Balanda Atis – L’Oréal USA
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pioneering scientist and champion for diversity in beauty, Balanda Atis drives innovation at L’Oréal as the Manager of the company’s U.S. Face and Multicultural Beauty Lab. Balanda’s decade-long history with the company has nurtured her passion for makeup and sparked her determination to use breakthrough science to help the company deliver on its mission of offering beauty for all. In her current role, Balanda is dedicated to making sure all women have access to products suited to the unique texture and color of their skin in each of the 140 countries where L’Oréal brands are available. Among her accomplishments, she successfully stabilized ‘Ultramarine Blue’ pigment in new formulations, which led to the development of 30 new shades of makeup for women with deeper skin tones across L’Oréal’s brands including Lancôme, L’Oréal Paris, and Maybelline.
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Balanda’s favorite part of her job is being able to share it with others, particularly young women through various mentorship programs. She makes frequent trips to educate and spend time with middle and high school students to engage with them on topics related to beauty, science, and diversity. Balanda is also a vocal member of the evaluation committee for L’Oréal’s ‘For Women in Science’ initiative, which allows her to play an active role in encouraging and applauding the talent of fellow female scientists. _____________________________________________
Francine Walker – Chemical Solutions Ltd.
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rancine Walker has over 25 years of laboratory, quality control, and manufacturing experience and is currently the Technical Director of Chemical Solutions, an independent laboratory specializing in heavy metal and elemental testing. Francine has implemented and administered quality systems for a variety of laboratory and manufacturing facilities to meet the requirements of ISO 9001, ISO 17025, cGMP, and cGLP guidelines. She has extensive experience in the analysis of metals using a variety of instrumental and wet chemistry techniques including AA, GF-AAS, ICP-AES, and ICP-MS. She is also a trained quality auditor and has authored applications in support of the Malcolm Baldrige National Quality Award. Francine has assisted industries in the areas of food safety compliance, vendor specification development, site and quality audits, and regulatory compliance permitting. She has presented numerous seminars and is a member of many industry working groups and committees. Ms. Walker received her B.S. in Chemistry from the University of Pittsburgh. _____________________________________________
Karen Dupiche – Emmy Award-Winning Makeup Artist
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our-time Emmy award-winning makeup artist for Outstanding Makeup for the ABC television daytime show “The View,” Karen’s talents continue to grace the world of television and print media as she is recognized as one of the most respected celebrity makeup artists in the industry. Raised in East Orange, New Jersey, Karen learned early on from her Haitian parents the importance of hard work and determination. From a young age, she watched her parents work long days and nights to provide the best possible life for her and her three siblings. Karen adopted that same work ethic once she entered the entertainment industry, and was immediately recognized as a true talent and leader. Karen’s efforts and her amazing talents transformed her into one of the world’s leading professional makeup artists for print, film, video, and television. Karen has worked at “The View” for over 15 years, while also showcasing her magical makeup transformations for the Oscars, Emmy, Tony, and MTV award shows. In addition to working for other major networks, Karen was also the Chief Beauty Officer for Elisabeth Hasselbeck at Fox Network. Her success and talent have also allowed her to become one of the most sought-after makeup artists for brides across the globe. Karen and her team continue to travel locally, nationally, and around the world, working with brides and bridesmaids to transform them from ordinary to fabulous, all with a stroke of magic. For more information visit her website at www.karendupiche.com. _____________________________________________
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Registration
SCC members: $35 Students: $10 Non-SCC members: $75 Emeritus members: Free Please visit the Events section of the NYSCC website to register: www.nyscc.org.
Monthly Meeting Group Discount The NYSCC is offering a group discount of 15% to companies that send five or more employees to a monthly meeting. All five employees must be registered at the same time to receive the discount. Once purchased, registrations are non-refundable.
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Employment Opportunities For complete ads please go to the NYSCC website: www.nyscc.org.
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n Senior Staff Scientist – Hair Styling Ashland, Inc. Bridgewater, NJ
n Sales Account Manager – Northeastern U.S. TRI-K Industries, Inc. Denville, NJ
n Regional Sales Manager Sytheon Ltd. Boonton, NJ
n Scientist – Luxury R&D – Skin Care Coty, Inc. Morris Plains, NJ
n Customer Service Representative ChemAid Laboratories, Inc. Saddle Brook, NJ
n R&D Manager Inolex, Inc. Philadelphia, PA
n Lead – Regulatory Affairs Chanel, Inc. Piscataway, NJ
n Product Stewardship Manager Inolex, Inc. Philadelphia, PA
n Technical Service Manager Sytheon Ltd. Boonton, NJ
n Regulatory and Documentation Specialist IFC Solutions Linden, NJ
n Plant Manager Ramm Beauty Orangeburg, NY
n Manager – Regulatory NBEG The Estée Lauder Companies Melville, NY
n Technical Services Associate TRI-K Industries, Inc. Denville, NJ
n Manager R&D High Ridge Brands Stamford, CT
Call for Papers
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he Cosmetiscope editorial committee invites all interested parties to submit feature technical articles for publication in the NYSCC monthly newsletter. Authors of feature articles are eligible to win the prestigous NYSCC Literature Award ($1,000) for the best front-page article published during the calendar year. Authors also receive $200 reimbursement to attend a theatrical performance of their choice. Writing an article for your peers is a very rewarding experience, both personally and professionally, and would ensure your place in NYSCC history. You may choose whatever topic you feel would be interesting to fellow colleagues in our industry. We also welcome any other types of commentaries or articles that may be published in the Career Corner, Technical Tidbit section, or as a Letter to the Editor. Please send correspondence to: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu.
We have got all your Beauty Needs Covered
NYSCC Sponsorship Opportunities The NYSCC Sponsorship Committee is proud to invite interested parties to sponsor NYSCC educational events throughout the year. Sponsorship Committee:
Johanna Gigliotti johanna@deverauxspecialties.com Paolo Marchesi paolo@deverauxspecialties.com
Yelena Zolotarsky (yelenazol@gmail.com) and Daphne Benderly (dbenderly@presperse.com) For more information, please visit: http://nyscc.org/sponsorship-opportunities/
www.DeverauxSpecialties.com
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