Cosmetiscope May 2018

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MAY 2018 • Vol. 24 No. 5

New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists

www.nyscc.org

Welcome to Suppliers’ Day 2018

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Cathy Piterski, NYSCC Chair

ell, the momentum continues to build! In less than two, weeks Suppliers’ Day, the anchor of “Beauty Week NYC,” will open its doors at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center in New York City. We are excited to be back at this venue and this dynamic city that is the ideal backdrop to bring this year’s theme “The Art & Science of Formulation” to life. We worked hard this year at forming new partnerships with some of the top industry associations—IFSCC, CEW, ICMAD, and PCPC—as well as with PeclersParis, a global trend forecaster, and expanding our involvement with the trade media. These new collaborations have deepened our educational offerings this year as well as increased our promotional reach. Be prepared for an exciting agenda that includes innovation, learning, interactive businessbuilding events, and fun! Here are some features not to be missed: • Pre-Show SCC CEP Course—The week begins with three workshops offering in-depth programming. These include: Speaking the Language: Basics in Scientific Terminology for the Cosmetics Industry; Scale Up and Processing Cosmetic Formulations; and

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Fundamentals of Using Colorants in Cosmetics and Personal Care Products. Ribbon-Cutting Ceremony—kick-off the event opening and Beauty Week NYC with board members, association partners, top brand representatives, art and science museum directors, and more surprises. Future Chemists Workshop—watch the country’s top chemistry students create new formulations in this challenge-based forum. The Digital Age of Beauty—learn about key strategies and innovations that are driving product development, speed to market, and consumer engagement. Discover Sustainability—hear top experts present lightning sessions on global sustainability initiatives, innovative bio-based ingredients, safe testing, and more! The World of Chemistry—gain a global perspective on raw materials, solutions, formulation, and regulations from countries and regions that are defining the beauty landscape. (Continued on page 3)

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2018 NYSCC BOARD OF DIRECTORS & PROGRAM CHAIRS CHAIR Cathy Piterski chair@nyscc.org

CHAIR-ELECT Sonia Dawson chair-elect@nyscc.org

TREASURER Michael Smith Treasurer@nyscc.org

TREASURER-ELECT Stephen Carter treasurer-elect@nyscc.org

SECRETARY Roumelia Alina secretary@nyscc.org

ADVISOR Marie Thadal advisor@nyscc.org

HOUSE Suzanne Dawis house@nyscc.org

MEMBERSHIP Mohamed Abdulla mohamed.abdulla@airliquide.com

PROGRAM Steve Herman steveh50@optonline.net

COMMUNICATIONS Theresa Phamduy webmaster@nyscc.org

SPECIAL EVENTS Amy Marshall amy.marshall@altana.com

COSMETISCOPE EDITOR Roger McMullen roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu

COSMETISCOPE ADVERTISING Bret Clark rbclark@ashland.com 2

Monthly Meeting Group Discount The NYSCC is offering a group discount of 15% to companies who send 5 or more employees to a monthly meeting. All five employees would need to be registered at the same time to receive the discount. Once purchased, registrations are non-refundable.

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Welcome to Suppliers’ Day 2018 (Continued from page 1)

Table of Contents Welcome to NYSCC Suppliers’s Day 2018 – NYSCC Chair 1 Schedule at a Glance 4 Shuttle Bus Info 6 Directions to the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center 6 NYSCC Suppliers’ Day General Information 7 NYSCC Suppliers’ Day Exhibit Hall Map 7 Message from the Mayor of New York City 8 NYSCC Suppliers’ Day Ribbon Cutting Ceremony 9 SCC Continuing Education Program 9 Digital Age of Beauty 10 World of Chemisty: A Global Perspective 11 HAPPI’s Anti-Aging Conference 12 Future Chemists Workshop 13 NYSCC Suppliers’ Day Presentation Theater 13 NYSCC Awards Night – Art and Science of Formulation 14 PeclersParis – Where Culture Meets Science 14 Discover Sustainability 14 Meet the CEW Beauty Award Finalists 15 ICMAD FDA Cosmetics Regulations Workshop 15 Microbiome Symposium – NYSCC June Event 16

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• Presentation Theater—visit this hub for industry education right on the show floor, which features presentations from our industry partners and exhibitors. • NYSCC Awards Night Party—mingle with your peers and celebrate the Art & Science of Formulation achievements of our exhibitors after the first day of the show. There is also add-on education with the co-located HAPPI AntiAging Conference, PeclersParis “Where Culture Meets Science” breakfast, and the ICMAD FDA Cosmetics Regulations Workshop. In addition, we are having a “MEMBER – BRING A NEW MEMBER” breakfast on May 16th. Details to come, however, the plan is to engage our members to help us spread the word of the countless benefits afforded with membership. The new members will then be present at Suppliers’ Day and feel the energy and excitement that this organization brings to cosmetic chemistry. Watch out for specifics, but in the meantime please block your calendar for 9:00 a.m. on Wednesday, May 16, 2018. Help us increase our membership, which will inevitably, increase the overall organization’s value proposition! There is no doubt that you will find your time spent at Suppliers’ Day this year to be both productive and relevant to your goals. There is no better event in North America to source and discover new innovations and efficient solutions for your product development needs and company’s success. So, if for some reason you haven’t registered, please do so today! Members enjoy free expo admission and discounted registration rates on all programs offered! While Suppliers’ Day will just about have it all, there will be opportunities for education and networking as we lead in to summer (And hopefully, lose all signs of winter coats!). On June 5th, our program on the microbiome will take place at L’Oréal USA in Clark, New Jersey. The program features a presentation by Dr. Magali Moreau, Principal Scientist in Open Innovation at L’Oréal USA who will discuss “Human Skin Microbiome: An Introduction and Opportunities for Healthy Skin Aging.” Joining her will be Denis Wahler from Givaudan to round-out this timely topic. And, of course, our summertime programming would not be complete without the Annual NYSCC Golf Outing, scheduled for Monday, July 23rd; always a great networking experience. We hope to see you there! We are almost half-way through 2018 and I could not be happier with the programming and participation that continues to allow the New York Chapter to set the bar on its mission to educate the industry. Let’s keep it going! See you at Suppliers’ Day! N o . 5

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NYSCC Suppliers’ Day Show Hours

Suga®Nate 160NC i m Laur yyllglucosiddes Hyydrox yypropylsulfo f nate Sodiu

colonialchem.com

Andrew Minczuk 201-259-7245 andrew.minczuk@colonialchem.com

Exhibits are located in Halls 1A-B-C of the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center Tuesday, May 15th 9:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m. Wednesday, May 16th 9:00 a.m. – 4:00 p.m.

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onference presentations take place in meeting rooms on the show floor, as well as in rooms on Level 1, in the corridor along the EXHIBIT HALLS. The show-floor Presentation Theater will feature specific tracks each day and then afternoon presentations by industry leaders, including select exhibitors. Be sure to review the highlights and make plans to attend and participate in sessions providing a global perspective!

Schedule at a Glance

n Monday, May 14th …SCC Pre-Show Courses…Make Your Selection! 1. Cosmetic Science Terminology for Sales and Marketing 2. NextGen Color Cosmetics 3. Scale Up & Processing Cosmetic Formulations

n Tuesday, May 15th 9:00 – 10:00 a.m. Ribbon Cutting Ceremony 9:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m. Suppliers’ Day Expo Open All Day! 9:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m. HAPPI’s Anti-Aging Conference 10:00 a.m. – 1:00 p.m. Digital Age of Beauty: Day 1 – Focus on Speed & Accuracy to Market 10:00 a.m. – 12:00 p.m. Future Chemists Workshop Session A 10:00 a.m. – 1:30 p.m. PC Magazine sponsored The World of Chemistry: A Global Perspective 1:30 p.m. – 3:30 p.m. Future Chemists Workshop Session B

n Wednesday, May 16th 8:30 a.m. – 10:00 a.m. PeclersParis presents Where Culture Meets Science: Forecasting Consumer Needs That Will Fuel Beauty Innovation 9:00 a.m. – 4:00 p.m. Suppliers’ Day Expo Open All Day! 9:00 a.m. – 2:00 p.m. HAPPI’s Anti-Aging Conference 10:00 a.m. – 1:15 p.m. GCI sponsored Digital Age of Beauty: Day 2 – Engaging the Consumer 10:00 a.m. – 1:00 p.m. UL sponsored Discover Sustainability 2:00 – 3:00 p.m. CEW presents Innovations in Formulations Beauty Award Winners

n Thursday, May 17th 9:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m. ICMAD Regulatory Program – Town Hall – WPP\PeclersParis – NYC

n Friday, May 18th 12:00 p.m. CEW Beauty Insider Awards Luncheon – NY Hilton

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Locations to Note at NYSCC Suppliers’ Day • VIP – Exhibitor Lounge

1A22 – off the show floor

• NYSCC Suppliers’ Day Association/ 1B03 Sales and Management Office • Press Office

1B02

Exhibitor Meeting Rooms (located in the corridor adjacent to the Exhibit Halls) • Dow Microbial Solutions

1C05

• Nexio Solutions

1C01

• Inolex

1A05

• The Dow Chemical Company

1B05

• Jungbunzlauer

1A01

• Univar

1B04

• Lubrizol

1A02

Processing Services for dry powders Fine & Ultra Fine Milling Technologies for Bases, Face Powders, and Pigments. FDA Registered. The Jet Pulverizer Co. ®

800.670-9695 www.jetpulverizer.com info@jetpul.com

DOWNLOAD AD NYS NYSCCC SUPPLIERS’ SUPPLIERS’ DAY DAY 2018 20 The Mobile App that th hat will keep you in the th he know while at SUPPLIERS’ SUPP PLIERS’ DAY DA AY in NYC! NYC YC!

HERE’S WHAT WHA YOU YOU CAN DO exhibitors, ch and find all e • Search product booth numbers and pr listings. latest est updates on • Get the lates programs and schedules, pr everything/a everything/anything anything /a show-related. ed. • Plan your our schedule, schedule make appointments, network netw & more!

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Shuttle Bus Info

Shuttles are provided free to and from designated hotels and select points in NYC. Route 1 sensiva® – multifunctional additives designed for your innovation euxyl® – optimum preservation according to your needs

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1. Penn Station (on 8th Avenue, between 30th and 31st Street), Wyndham New Yorker, Grand Central (on 42nd Street off Lexington Avenue). 2. Doubletree Times Square (on 8th Avenue at 36th Street northeast corner), TRYP, Homewood Suites Times Square, Port Authority Bus Terminal (on 41st Street between 8th and 9th Avenue across the street). 3. Element Times Square (on 39th Street between 8th and 9th Avenue), Doubletree by Hilton NY Times Square West, Staybridge Suites Times Square, Yotel (on 41st Street at 10th Avenue).

Route 2 1. Grand Central (on 42nd Street off Lexington Avenue). 2. Port Authority Bus Terminal (on 41st Street between 8th and 9th Avenue). 3. Yotel (on 41st Street at 10th Avenue).

n Tuesday, May 15th • 8:00 a.m. – 12:00 p.m. Route 1: Buses on a 15-minute schedule Route 2: Buses on a 25-minute schedule • 3:00 p.m. – 6:00 p.m. Route 1: Buses on a 15-minute schedule Route 2: Buses on a 25-minute schedule

n Wednesday, May 16th • 8:00 a.m. – 4:30 p.m. Route 1: Buses on a 20-minute schedule Route 2: Buses on a 25-minute schedule

Micro Powders, Inc. High Performance Wax Additives MPIpersonalcare.com

Directions to the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center

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hen traveling to the world’s busiest convention center, it is good to have options. Within New York City, public transportation is always a quick and affordable way to go—and the new 7 Subway Extension across the street from the Javits Center makes the trip even more convenient. If you are coming by car or truck, virtually all roads lead to the Javits Center. Plus, there is plenty of offsite parking within walking distance of the iconic facility. And, if you are looking to burn some calories while blazing a trail to our front door, take advantage of Citi Bike, New York’s bike sharing system. The NY Waterway is also a convenient and quick way to get to the Javits Center from across the Hudson River, and only one block from the Javits Center. No matter what mode of transportation you use, we think you will agree that getting to the Javits Center has never been easier.

Jacob K. Javits Convention Center, 655 W. 34th Street, New York, NY 6

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NYSCC Suppliers’ Day – General Information Registration For registration, go to www.nyscc.org. ______________

On-Site Food Services

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ood Services will be provided right on the Show Floor, as well as select service in the Café on Level 1! Check your floor plan to find our coffee, breakfast, sponsored food carts, and portable snacks. Restaurants, providing a real taste of ‘NY flavor’ and more, are located on the show floor with a variety of options throughout the Javits Center.

Food Court and Snack Sponsors: _____________________________________________

NYSCC Suppliers’ Day Exhibit Hall Map ➎

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➊ Future Chemists Workshop ➋ Presentation Theater ➌ French Pavillion ➍ Digital Age of Beauty ➎ VIP/Exhibitor Lounge V O L U M E

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ROOM 1A30 ROOM 1A29 AREA IN PINK ROOM 1A21 ROOM 1A20 7


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Message from the Mayor of New York City

Thank You to Our Partners

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NYSCC Suppliers’ Day Ribbon-Cutting Ceremony

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ick-off your Suppliers’ Day experience with the Ribbon-Cutting Ceremony at 9:00 a.m. on May 15th. This year’s ceremony activates the show’s theme, The Art and Science of Formulation, with representatives from some of the most innovative art and science institutions in New York City. Joining us will be Cooper Hewitt Smithsonian Design Museum, which has a special exhibit (Saturated: The Allure and Science of Color) and the American Museum of Natural History with its “Our Senses, Immersive Experience” exhibition, as well as “Inside You,” focusing on microbes that live in, on, and around all of us and a huge component in innovative active ingredients. They will be joined by NYSCC, SCC, and IFSCC Board Members and leading industry associations who have partnered with Suppliers’ Day this year to create Beauty Week NYC. The Ribbon-Cutting Ceremony will be a fun experiential introduction to the education and formulation happening in cosmetic chemistry and awaiting you at Suppliers’ Day! Please join us!

ENJOY SUCCESSFUL PARTNERSHIPS Brenntag Specialties, Inc. 1 Cragwood Road, Suite 302 South Plainfield, NJ 07080 Phone: 800 732-0562 Fine Ingredients, Minerals, Colors, Surface Treatments, Proteins, Powders

www.brenntagspecialties.com

SCC Continuing Education Program (CEP) Monday, May 14th • 9:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m.

Jacob K. Javits Convention Center • Level 1 Meeting Rooms

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s part of Beauty Week, the National SCC is offering three SCC CEP courses on May 14, 2018. These courses will be offered at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center the day before Suppliers’ Day in the Level 1 Meeting Rooms.

Fundamentals of Using Colorants – Kelly A. Dobos (Sun Chemical Corporation)

The incorporation of color in cosmetic and personal care products is part art and part science. What seems like a simple and fun exercise in pigment blending is reliant on a complex set of decisions. Factors such as the regulatory environment, cost, and stability as well as physical and chemical properties of each colorant all play an essential role in determining success in product development. This course will cover numerous topics including color theory, the regulatory environment and color quality control.

Speaking the Language – Basics in Scientific Terminology for the Cosmetics Industry – Nava Dayan, Ph.D. (Dr. Nava Dayan L.L.C.) This CEP course is aimed at providing key fundamental knowledge of scientific terms used in our industry. It will cover: definition of key words, skin structure and function, major cells and components, structure of genes, meaning of expression, and the definition and role of cytokines, enzymes and receptors. A special focus will be provided to skin aging as well as “omics” technologies, such as genomics, proteomics, lipidomics, and the skin microbiome.

Scale Up and Processing Cosmetic Formulations – David Yacko (formerly with Estée Lauder Companies) In the cosmetic industry it is imperative that new products get from the bench to manufacturing as quickly as possible. This is the job of the Process Development Engineer and the process is called scale up. In this course, we will discuss the different aspects of scale up: heat transfer, addition rates, and energy input as it pertains to batch size and different equipment.

Registration Information: Early Bird – Through April 30, 2018 • $360 – SCC Member • $490 – Non-Member • $210 – SCC Student Member

After April 30, 2018 • $410 – SCC Member • $540 – Non-Member • $235 – SCC Student Member

To register, please visit https://r1.events-registration.com/suppliersday2018/. V O L U M E

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With strong roots, we’re green and growing.

_______ Day 1 • Tuesday, May 15th • 10:00 a.m. – 1:00 p.m. _______ It’s only Bio.Logical. to contact us: (800) 223-7054 acme-hardesty.com

Jacob K. Javits Convention Center • Meeting Room 1A21 Moderator: Giorgio Dell’Acqua (Dellacqua Consulting)

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he overall program will unveil key strategies and innovations that are driving product development, speed to market, and e-strategies that drive consumer engagement. Day 1 of this program focuses on digital solutions that enable manufacturers to bring products to market expeditiously.

Agenda 10:00 – 10:25 a.m. Digitalizing Growth: Opportunities and Risks in Cosmetics and Personal Care – James Weatherall (SpecialChem) 10:30 – 10:55 a.m. Streamline your New Product Introduction Process for Faster Market Entry – Ken Bubeck (Ithos Global) 11:00 – 11:20 a.m. Coffee Break 11:30 – 11:55 a.m. Color Matching and Formulation – Dwight Davis (Konica Minolta Sensing Americas, Inc.) 12:00 – 12:25 p.m. 3D Printing for Packaging – Prototypes and More 12:30 – 1:00 p.m. Personalized Cosmetics Enabled by the Digital Age – Anna Howe (Evonik)

_____ Day 2 • Wednesday, May 16th • 10:00 a.m. – 1:15 p.m. _____ Jacob K. Javits Convention Center • Meeting Room 1A21 Moderator: Jeb Gleason (Allured) Sponsored by

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he overall program will unveil key strategies and innovations that are driving product development, speed to market, and e-strategies that drive consumer engagement. Day 2 focuses on e-marketing solutions driving consumer engagement, which ultimately impacts final production.

Agenda 10:00 – 10:20 a.m. Private Eye: How Digital Technologies are Influencing Product Purchase – Sarah Jindal (Mintel) 10:25 – 10:50 a.m. Using Your Unique Voice to Engage, Story Tell, and Create Brand Awareness in a Digital World – Jennifer Walsh (Behind the Brand/The Healthy Entrepreneur) 10:55 – 11:20 a.m. Designing Packaging for Omni-Channel Beauty Consumers – Sheri L. Koeting (MSLK) 11:25 – 11:45 a.m. Coffee Break 11:45 a.m. – 12:10 p.m. Product Innovation, Personalization, and Customization Through Digitalization – Anne Karagoz (Coptis, Inc.) 12:15 – 12:45 p.m. Haircare Formulations as Individual as Each Consumer 12:50 – 1:15 p.m. Excitement, Education, and e-Commerce! Accessibility is Key for Consumers

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Committed to technology, formulation and superior nation-wide distribution.

_______ Tuesday, May 15 • 10:00 a.m. – 1:40 p.m. _______ Jacob K. Javits Convention Center • Presentation Theater (Right on the show floor!) Moderator: Richard Scott (Personal Care Magazine)

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he World of Chemistry will bring a global perspective to raw materials, solutions, formulation, and regulations. Presenters are leading experts from countries and regions that define the beauty landscape.

800.296.4942 LincolnFineIngredients.com 50 Industrial Cr., Lincoln, R.I., 02865

Sponsored by

Agenda 10:00 – 10:10 a.m. Introduction – IFSCC Speaker and NYSCC Suppliers’ Day as a Benefactor of IFSCC – Amy Wyatt (CHANEL, Inc.) 10:10 – 10:40 a.m. Penetration Strategies for Drugs in and Through the Skin – Jürgen Laderman (Vice President – IFSCC) 10:45 – 11:10 a.m. Cell Nucleus Health: A Novel Anti-Aging Concept – Fred Zülli, Ph.D. (Mibelle Biochemistry) 11:15 – 11:40 a.m. Urban and Environmental Pollution – What, Where, and How to Protect – Liki von Oppen-Bezalel, Ph.D. (IBR) 11:45 a.m. – 12:10 p.m. The Challenge of Evaluating and Marketing Cosmetic Actives for a Global Market – John Lofthouse (CLR-Berlin) 12:15 – 12:40 p.m. The Impact of Brazil’s New Biodiversity Regulation for Raw Ingredients on Manufacturers and Cosmetic Industries – João Hansen (ABC Consultee Counsel) 12:45 – 1:10 p.m. Innovating for the Luxury Market – Amy Wyatt (CHANEL, Inc.) 1:15 – 1:40 p.m. Suppliers’ World View – Panel Presentation with Expanscience, MLS and Infinitec – Moderator: Richard Scott (Personal Care Magazine)

Call for Papers

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he Cosmetiscope editorial committee invites all interested parties to submit feature technical articles for publication in the NYSCC monthly newsletter. Authors of feature articles are eligible to win the prestigous NYSCC Literature Award ($1,000) for the best front-page article published during the calendar year. Also, authors receive $200 reimbursement to attend a theatrical performance of their choice. Writing an article for your peers is a very rewarding experience, both personally and professionally, and would reserve your place in NYSCC history. You may choose whatever topic you feel would be interesting to fellow colleagues in our industry. We also welcome any other types of commentaries or articles that may be published in the Career Corner, Technical Tidbit section, or as a Letter to the Editor. Please send correspondence to: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu.

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NATURE’S POWER AND MAN’S WISDOM™

Supplying Standard Botanical Extracts, Custom Botanicals, and Active Ingredients and Complexes since 1998.

_______ Tuesday & Wednesday, May 15th – 16th _______

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Jacob K. Javits Convention Center • Level 1 Meeting Rooms Conference Chair: Navin Geria (Ayurderm Technologies LLC)

APPI’s Anti-Aging Conference makes its New York City debut! This popular conference will be co-located with NYSCC Suppliers’ Day at the Jacob K. Javits Center. This new location gives formulators and their suppliers an excellent opportunity to interact and discuss all things related to this product segment. This program has become the source for information on breakthrough technology, novel raw materials, regulatory activity, and market research involving the multi-billion dollar global anti-aging industry.

Agenda: Tuesday, May 15th 9:00 – 9:25 a.m. Breakfast and Coffee Service 9:25 – 9:30 a.m. Welcome and Introduction – Navin M. Geria (Ayurderm Technologies LLC) 9:30 – 10:30 a.m. Keynote Address – Biotechnology-derived Active Ingredients for Anti-Aging Cosmetics – Gabriel Nistor, M.D. and Alexa Poole, Ph.D. (Aivita Biomedical) 10:30 – 11:05 a.m. Understanding and Preventing the Aging Process through the Decades – Marina Peredo, M.D. 11:05 – 11:40 a.m. What Is the Future of Skin Care? – Lauren Thaman (Procter & Gamble) 11:40 – 11:55 a.m. Coffee Break 11:55 a.m. – 12:30 p.m. The Silent Killer – Cultural Stress and the Effects on Your Skin, Health, and Happiness – Howard Murad, M.D. (Murad) 12:30 - 1:00 p.m. Addressing the Rise of Personalized Skin Care and Its Perceived Invasiveness Through New Digital Technologies – William Lee (EpigenCare) 1:00 – 2:00 p.m. Lunch 2:00 – 2:40 p.m. Everything You Need to Know about Different States of Skin in Just 40 Minutes – Georg Khazaka, Ph.D. (Courage + Khazaka) 2:40 – 3:10 p.m. Skin Is an Interactive Interface, Not an Inflexible Barrier – Gopi Mennon, Ph.D. 3:10 – 3:20 p.m. Coffee Break 3:20 – 4:00 p.m. A New Chapter in Anti-Aging Skin Care – David Tyrrell (Mintel) 4:00 – 5:00 p.m. Ice Cream on the NYSCC Suppliers’ Day Show Floor

Agenda: Wednesday, May 16th 8:00 – 9:00 a.m. Breakfast and Coffee Service 9:00 – 9:45 a.m. Keynote Address – What Are the Differences Among Skin of Color? How Do They Age? What Are Suitable Anti-Aging Products for Skin of Color? – Andrew Alexis, M.D. 9:45 a.m. – 1:00 p.m. Regulatory Session 1:00 – 2:00 p.m. Lunch To register for the Happi Anti-Aging Conference, please visit http://conference.happi.com. 12

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_______ Tuesday, May 15th • Morning & Afternoon Sessions _______ Jacob K. Javits Convention Center • Meeting Room 1A30 Team Captains: • Yelena Zolotarsky for Skin Care Emulsions (Morning Session) • Elizabeth Kaufman, Ph.D. for Rheological Properties (Afternoon Session)

Sponsored by

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he Future Chemists Workshop provides an interactive learning environment and challenge for university students and leaders of tomorrow to design formulations that promote key industry trends including sustainability. This year’s sessions focus on skin care emulsions and rheological properties.

NYSCC Suppliers’ Day Presentation Theater

_______ Tuesday & Wednesday, May 15th – 16th _______

Jacob K. Javits Convention Center • Presentation Theater (Right on the show floor!) Moderated by the NYSCC Scientific Advisory Board Members

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ust adjacent to the sold-out exhibit floor, featuring more then 450 suppliers with specialty areas showcasing the art and science of innovation, will be the Presentation Theater. This hub for industry education houses Suppliers’ Day complimentary programs including Discover Sustainability and The World of Chemistry. Presentations from our industry partners including C&T, ICMAD, and PCPC will also be showcased in the afternoons along with select interactive exhibitor talks from AIC, Austrade, Coptis, Evonik, Innospec, SGS, Silab, and more.

NYSCC Awards: Innovations in The Art and Science of Formulation

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he NYSCC Awards Finalists for Innovations in The Art and Science of Formulation are:

Congratulations to these finalists who inspire ingenuity and innovation! The metrics for consideration were: • Creativity to show the synergy between the art and science of a formulation. • Sensorial competitiveness: scent, texture, and overall appearance. • WOW factor. AND… THE WINNER IS… You, the attendees, will make the call! Voting takes place on the NYSCC Suppliers’ Day MOBILE APP, so be sure to stop by and review the details, as well as the actual product, that made these four submissions this year’s finalists. Then, come celebrate innovation with us the evening of May 15th!

Make note of it… Send news of interest, guest editorials, and comments to Roger McMullen, Editor • E-mail: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu

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PROTAMERS

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NYSCC Awards Night – Art and Science of Formulation _______ Tuesday, May 15th • 9:00 p.m. _______ Stage 48, 605 W 48th Street, New York, NY

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he NYSCC is hosting its 3rd Annual Suppliers’ Day Awards Night in New York City with an event that’s not to be missed! In honor of this year’s theme, “The Art and Science of Formulation,” please come celebrate with us. Bring your mask and appropriate attire for a masquerade inspired event! The event is going to be held at Stage 48, one of New York City’s most unique event spaces. Stage 48 is located in the heart of Hell’s Kitchen. This four-level venue is a converted industrial space that incorporates New York’s old west side feel with modern amenities and state-of-the-art sound and lighting. The venue features a grand ballroom with an extravagant mezzanine, a private lounge level with a performance space, and a beautiful rooftop terrace with a gorgeous view of the Manhattan skyline. n Registration Information n Attire: Standard Rate: • Smart casual/masquerade-type attire • $60.00/per person (SCC members) • $80.00/ per person (non-SCC members) n Event Chair: • $130.00/per person (on-site registration) • Giorgino Macalino For registration and more information, please visit the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org).

Where Culture Meets Science: Forecasting Consumers Needs That Will Fuel Beauty Innovation

_______ Wednesday, May 16th • 8:30 – 10:00 a.m. _______ Jacob K. Javits Convention Center • Level 1 Meeting Rooms Instructor: Emma Fric (PeclersParis)

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rom Gen Z’s positive pragmatism to the revival of 90’s creative boldness, PeclersParis shares a selection of the latest, visionary socio-cultural and beauty trends and a proprietary fast track to innovation.

_______ Wednesday, May 16th • 10:00 a.m. – 1:00 p.m. _______ Jacob K. Javits Convention Center • Presentation Theater (Right on the show floor!) Moderator: Whitney Miller (UL) Sponsored by

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iscover Sustainability presentations focus on natural, green, and sustainable cosmetic developments with short sessions from top experts on sustainability initiatives, innovative bio-based ingredients, safe testing, and more!

Agenda 10:00 – 10:20 a.m. Turning the World Green: How Bio-based Ingredients Boost Sustainability – Marni Dexter (Croda Inc.)

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10:25 – 10:50 a.m. Formulating Sustainable Products: Supplier Reponse to Retailer Chemical Policies – Bill Pease, Ph.D. (UL Product Supply Chain Intelligence) 10:55 – 11:15 a.m. Functional Biopolymer for Greener Formulations – Tom Broojimans (Cosun Biobased Products) 11:20 – 11:40 a.m. Natural Formulations that Perform: Glycolipids – Kathrin Brandt (Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH)

High Performance Ingredients for Skin and Hair Care Smooth, mild, natural and stable

11:45 a.m. – 12:05 p.m. The New Natural: Building Better Bio-based Ingredients – Damien A. Perriman (Genomatica) 12:10 – 12:30 p.m. Rediscover Exciting Formulations Using Natural Surfactant and Emulsifier Ingredients – Fiona Kirby, Ph.D. (Corbion – Purac Biochem BV)

www.charkit.com ww w ww.charkit.com | 203-299-3220

12:35 – 1:00 p.m. New Non-Animal Test Approaches for Developing Safe and Sustainable Cosmetic Ingredients – Stacie L. Abraham (UL Product Supply Chain Intelligence)

Meet the CEW Beauty Award Finalists in Formulation

_______ Wednesday, May 16th • 2:00 p.m. – 3:00 p.m. _______ Jacob K. Javits Convention Center • Meeting Room 1A21 Moderated by PeclersParis

Finalists include: • BASF Corp. • Dermagenist PW – Waking Up Sleeping Beauty • Clariant • Eosidin • Green Mountain Biotech • Kamedis Dermatology Calm Eczema Therapy Cream • Biomod • Skinsmart Dry Mask – City Protect • Geltor Inc. • N-collage

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• Stepan • Naturally

earn what made them “hot” and why they are the finalists in innovative formulations. As a new category in the CEW Beauty Awards, there is no doubt that these innovators are showcasing the beauty and personal care trends that define tomorrow! This event is open to all Suppliers’ Day attendees. Seating is limited.

ICMAD FDA Cosmetics Regulations Workshop _______ Thursday, May 17th • 9:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m. _______

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Town Hall – PeclersParis HQ, 3 Columbus Circle, New York, NY Registration is required.

he ICMAD FDA Cosmetics Regulations Workshop will take place in New York City on Thursday, May 17th, the day after Suppliers’ Day. The workshop provides cosmetic and personal care industry professionals with necessary regulatory and safety updates. Government representatives, industry experts, and ICMAD officials will inform attendees about sector updates and current issues including expert assessments on the latest issues that have captured the attention of consumers, regulators, and industry. Visit www.icmad.org for complete programming and registration.

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Microbiome Symposium June 5, 2018 • L’Oréal, Clark, NJ

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oin us on June 5th for our Microbiome Symposium, hosted and sponsored by L’Oréal. Learn about the microbiome, trends in this field, and innovations to address consumers’ requests and needs. Two experts will discuss the growing importance of the microbiome not only in hygiene and personal care, but also in cosmetics. We are looking forward to this exciting event and hope you will join us at L’Oréal in Clark, New Jersey. A special thanks to L’Oréal for hosting and sponsoring this event.

Agenda 4:00 – 4:30 p.m. Registration 4:30 – 5:30 p.m. Human Skin Microbiome: An Introduction and Opportunities for Healthy Aging Skin – Magali Moreau, Ph.D. (L’Oréal) 5:30 - 6:15 p.m. Dinner 6:15 – 7:00 p.m. Microbiomics for Cosmetics – Denis Wahler, Ph.D. (Givaudan)

Event Chair – Hadley Schreiber

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adley Schreiber is a Marketing Associate at Givaudan Active Beauty. She graduated from Brown University and completed her Master of Arts degree at the Sotheby’s Institute of Art in New York City. _____________________________________________

Human Skin Microbiome: An Introduction and Opportunities for Healthy Skin Aging – Magali Moreau, Ph.D.

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kin surface microbes are essential partners of healthy skin. And despite the fact that we all carry a unique skin microbiota, several studies have revealed that a healthy skin microbiome is primarily determined by skin micro-biotopes that include sebaceous, moist, and dry environments.1 Dysregulation has been linked to various skin conditions such as atopic dermatitis, acne, and dandruff.2,3 Skin aging is characterized by a decrease in sweat, sebum, and immune functions, thus resulting in significant alterations in skin surface physiology including pH and lipid composition. These physiological changes provide potential alterations in the skin ecology that may affect the skin microbiome. In a collaborative effort with the University of Tokyo, we characterized an aged-associated dysbiosis in the skin microbiome of woman. Our data revealed a higher number of species in older skin than younger skin. This diversification of older women’s skin microbiota uncovered an unexpected species more frequently associated with the oral cavity, which was significantly overrepresented in the older group.4 At present, the biological role of these oral bacteria colonizing the skin is largely unknown. However, it is intriguing that their prevalence in the skin bacteriome has been recently reported as a signature of atopic dermatitis. In parallel, the data showed that the most predominant genus, Cutibacterium (formerly called Propionibacterium), was less represented in the older group and correlated with sebum level. Cutibacterium is an important commensal organism of the skin, which is expected to benefit the host.5 A depletion of Cutibacterium may reduce these skin benefits and thus contribute to clinical/physiological signs of skin aging. These recent data open new opportunities in diagnostic and preservation of skin health during aging.

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References 1. G.I. Perez Perez et al., Body site is a more determinant factor than human population diversity in the healthy skin microbiome, PLoS One, 11(4), e0151990 (2016). 2. S. Seite and T. Bieber, Barrier function and microbiotic dysbiosis in atopic dermatitis, Clin. Cosmet. Invest. Dermatol., 8, 479-483 (2015). 3. C. Clavaud et al., Dandruff is associated with disequilibrium in the proportion of the major bacterial and fungal populations colonizing the scalp, PLoS One, 8(3), e58203 (2013). 4. N. Shibagaki et al., Aging-related changes in the diversity of women’s skin microbiomes associated with oral bacteria, Sci. Rep., 7, 10567 (2017). 5. G.J. Christensen and H. Brüggemann, Bacterial skin commensals and their role as host guardians, Benef. Microbes, 5, 201-215 (2014).

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Magali Moreau, Ph.D.

Currently a Principal Scientist in Open Innovation at L’Oréal, Magali scouts and establishes external partnerships with academia, CROs, and start-ups to bring new knowledge, methods, and technologies in skin and hair. Her major focus is on the microbiome and biotech technologies for skin and hair care applications. Magali completed a Ph.D. in Biochemistry and Molecular Biology at the University Paris, where she studied enzymatic mechanisms of human nitric oxide synthase. She completed post-doctoral fellowships at Boyce Thompson Institute with Daniel Klessig and Cornell University with Brian Crane. She has research interests in plant pathogen interactions (plant defense-associated molecules like nitric oxide and salicylic acid), screening of plant protein microarrays to find new receptors of salicylic acid in plants and human, and structure function relationships in novel nitric oxide synthases in cyanobacteria. _____________________________________________

Microbiomics for Cosmetics – Denis Wahler, Ph.D.

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kin microbiomes are very diverse communities of microorganisms which live on the deserts of our forearms or calves, the tropical forests of our armpits, or the abundant plains of our forehead or cheeks. With the advent of metagenome and biogenetic technologies, researchers are able to measure the importance of the skin microbiome in hygiene and personal care, and cosmetic scientists are now turning it into an unavoidable solution for beauty and well being. But communication to the consumer is key and their adoption of the products comes with their education. As the only fragrance company with in-house microbiome research capabilities, Givaudan remains committed to the development of innovative cosmetic ingredients that push the boundaries of the microbiome trend. Learn about what’s happening at Givaudan Active Beauty and discover how to address consumers’ requests and needs on the skin microbiome as a full player in beauty and well being. n

Denis Wahler, Ph.D.

An experienced manager for collaborative research and development, Denis is in charge of Technology Partnerships within the Active Beauty business unit of Givaudan. Prior to this role, he was Business Development Manager in Biocatalysis and Metagenomics at Libragen, before the acquisition of the company by Givaudan in 2015. LibraGen has since become the Applied Microbiomics Centre of Excellence of Givaudan Active Beauty. Denis also worked in applied research and contract services in White Biotechnology and Green Chemistry at Proteus/PCAS Biosolution, where he served as Head of R&D and Scientific Manager for many years. Prior to joining Libragen, he also spent over a year at SEPPIC (Air Liquide Group) as Head of the Synthesis Department. Denis graduated with a Ph.D. in Chemistry and Biochemistry at the University of Bern in Switzerland.

Location:

Registration Information

• L’Oréal Hub, 175 Terminal Avenue, Clark, NJ Pre-Registration Cost / At Door Cost: Please enter through the front of the building on • SCC members: $35 / $70 Terminal Avenue to register. This is an after-hours • Non-SCC members: $70 / $100 event, so it is okay to park in any unmarked parking • Students: $10 / $50 • Emeritus: $0 / $10 To register, please visit the Events section of the NYSCC website: www.nyscc.org. V O L U M E

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Employment Opportunities For complete ads please go to the NYSCC website: www.nyscc.org.

n Market Designer Barnet Products Corp. • Englewood Cliffs, NJ

n Technical Sales – Cosmetic Ingredients IFC Solutions • Linden, NJ

n Skin Care Scientist Melaleuca, Inc. • Idaho Falls, ID

n Product Manager – Global Personal Care Elementis Specialties • East Windsor, NJ

n Global Account Director – Cosmetic Ingredients Symrise, Inc. • Teterboro, NJ

n Regional Marketing Manager NA IFF/Lucas Meyer Cosmetics • New York, NY

n Senior Manager, R&D Tri-K Industries • Denville, NJ 18

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