Assessing the Efficacy of a New Multifunctional Ingredient for Helping Topical Acne Treatment

Cristiane Pacheco (Chemyunion)

Acne is a common skin condition that affects millions of people worldwide and is the eighth most common cutaneous problem While traditional treatments such as topical and oral medications have shown some success, they can also cause adverse side effects. As such, there is growing interest in the use of other ingredients combined with the OTC products to work synergistically for helping acne treatment

The synergistic combination of propanediol, caprylic acid, and xylitol has been shown to have antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and sebum regulation properties, making it a promising option for helping acne treatment. In this sense, the efficacy and safety of this new ingredient at low concentration was evaluated We have conducted a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial in which participants with light acne vulgaris, level I or II, were assigned to receive either the placebo for mula or the for mula with the active ingredient.

In this study, the active ingredient was compared to placebo, and it helped to reduce acne lesions by 53% and the presence of porphyrins by 43% (related to C. acnes) in just 7 days of treatment. In addition, it reduced redness and inflamed lesions by 15% after 14 days and decreased skin oiliness by 20% after 28 days of the study through the regulation of the enzyme 5-alpha reductase

n Cristiane Pacheco

Cristiane Pacheco is New Business Vice President of Chemyunion, Inc. U.S. Pacheco joined Chemyunion in 1998 and has 25 years of professional global personal care experience. She has led the Research and Development department and currently heads the U S New Business, Sales, and Operations team Cristiane is a Phar macist and holds an MBA in addition to a postgraduate degree in Cosmetology.

Using Bio-Identical Proteins for Acne Control (Bonus: Cruelty-Free and Sustainable!)

Hannah Sivak (Skin Actives Scientific)

Herbalists and shamans may have been the first to use natural products like royal jelly to alleviate human ills. Phar macologists then identified the active chemicals, biochemists purified them, and protein chemists built the pure proteins Royal jelly has antimicrobial and immunomodulatory properties that could be used to help control acne The chemical that gives royal jelly its antibacterial and wound-healing activity is a small protein, defensin-1, which increases keratinocyte migration, wound closure, and stimulates metalloproteinase-9 secretion by keratinocytes (proteinases are involved in the complex process of healing which involves synthesis and degradation of multiple proteins).

Royal jelly is expensive, and it has an even higher ethical cost; this is why we need an alter native approach Bee defensin-1 by Skin Actives is a laboratory-made protein identical to the one that gives honeybee royal jelly its antibacterial and antifungal properties and helps accelerate skin healing. You can get the benefits of royal jelly in an easy-to-use concentrate, using the knowledge of moder n science as applied to ancient medical practice. Skin Actives brings the benefits of very advanced biotechnology to

(continued on Page 24) your skincare products, including other ingredients that can be used to treat acneic skin, like granulysin and antioxidant proteins

n Hannah Sivak, Ph.D.

Dr. Hannah Sivak founded Skin Actives Scientific in 2006 to provide the best actives in the world at prices attainable to the consumer Dr Sivak completed her doctorate research at the Institute for Biochemistry Research in Buenos Aires under the direction of Dr L F Leloir (Nobel Laureate for Chemistry, 1970)

Dr Sivak has published more than 60 papers inter nationally, included in refereed journals and books, on different aspects of biology, biochemistry, molecular biology, and biotechnology She was a Research Fellow at the Universities of York and Sheffield in the United Kingdom from 1980–1990 and Professor of Biochemistry and Molecular Biology (Research) at Michigan State University from 1990–2002 She retired from academia in 2002, and now consults as a scientific advisor while overseeing for mulation for Skin Actives Scientific.

Sulfidal Colloidal Sulfur: A Cold-Processable, Upcycled, and Reduced Odor Sulfur as an Effective Choice for Acne Treatment

Cristina Abbastante (Aurorium)

Sulfur is a key ingredient in the treatment of acne, seborrheic der matitis, dandruff, and other skin conditions due to its potent antifungal, antibacterial, and keratolytic activity. Not only has sulfur been proven to help treat acne and reduce redness, but it is also an optimal choice for consumers with sensitive skin who are not able to use other traditional treatments such as benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid

There are currently some challenges with using standard sulfur in the personal care industry For example, the largest obstacle of for mulating with sulfur is the not-so-subtle odor of rotten eggs. Sulfur also does not easily disperse into water without the addition of added solubilizers, multistep processing, high-speed mixing, and homogenization. Lastly, the environmental impact of mined elemental sulfur could cause groundwater contamination, leaching of heavy metals into the surrounding soil and water supply, and disruption of the natural geological for mations and ecosystems in the area Aurorium’s Sulfidal Colloidal Sulfur is an innovative product that offers a unique combination of ~75% sulfur and 25% Acacia Senegal gum (derived from the sap of the Acacia Senegal tree) that offers potential efficacy for treating various skin conditions, including acne, redness, seborrheic der matitis, and dandruff Sulfur used in the production of Sulfidal Colloidal Sulfur is upcycled as a byproduct of fossil fuels and can minimize the environmental impact of the petroleum industry. Upcycling sulfur not only significantly benefits the environment but also provides a creative approach to resolving the environmental stress created by sulfur byproducts

Using Sulfidal Colloidal Sulfur is more convenient for for mulators as well. It offers ease of for mulation, better dispersions (cold-processed), and better aesthetics with significantly less odor than standard sulfur allowing for a more pleasant consumer experience. Sulfidal Colloidal Sulfur has also been shown to significantly help reduce acne blemishes and whiteheads It reduced sebum and redness versus a placebo and showed no signs of irritation, scaling, or dryness A der matological assessment (IGA) resulted in 20% improvement versus baseline. Further more, we discovered that the addition of niacinamide to colloidal sulfur improved the overall appearance of blemished skin and worked twice as fast as benzoyl peroxide in reducing redness. This combination also showed a 22% reduction in sebum levels versus 12% with BPO The der matological assessment (IGA) showed an overall improvement of nearly 70% Further more, panelists preferred the results for overall appearance.

In summary, upcycled Sulfidal Colloidal Sulfur allows for cold-processed dispersions of sulfur with reduced odor in a for mula, making it a potential game-changer in topical treatments for acne, seborrheic der matitis, and dandruff.

Cristina Abbastante is an accomplished Senior Scientist in R&D at Aurorium with extensive experience and expertise in various aspects of personal care, including product development, R&D, and technical services She has collaborated with several multinational consumer products companies. Her proficiency extends across a diverse range of products, including haircare, skincare, and pet products Cristina holds a Bachelor of Science degree in both Chemistry and Biology from New Jersey City University, demonstrating her strong academic background

Addressing the Challenges of Oily Skin with a Cosmetogenomic Approach

Sally Hashemi and Michelle Yip (Seder ma, Croda Inc )

Oily skin is a widespread phenomenon; women, teenagers, and men alike seek to reduce and dissimulate shiny skin It is the result of relatively abundant sebum production by cells called sebocytes Sebum overproduction can often change other properties of the skin For instance, sebum traps dead skin cells as well as the bacteria that feed on these cells and multiply. This results in the clogging of pores and creates a hub of pro-inflammatory processes The skin then becomes covered with blemishes that may become more significant, which could affect one ’ s quality of life and overall well-being.

Sebuless is a powder extract obtained by plant cell culture of Syringa vulgaris known as the common lilac This concentrated lilac (Syringa vulgaris) was clinically tested on nor mal human sebocytes and after only one month of treatment, Sebuless reduced hyperseborrhea and decreased by half the number of inflammatory blemishes At 0 5% concentration, it provided a significant reduction in the following: sebum production, the number of active sebaceous glands, inflammatory blemishes (-48%), and red spots (38%) In vitro studies included the reduction of total lipid and pro-inflammatory lipid production in human keratinocytes, an increase in skin's anti-microbial peptide synthesis (cathelicidin and β-defensin 2) and the inhibition of pro-inflammatory mediators of C acnes (TLR-2 genetic expression, IL-6, IL-8, PGE2, nitric oxide, reactive oxygen species) It normalizes the desquamation process by increasing the stratum corneum tryptic enzyme. Additionally, it reduces tyrosinase, melanin production, and melanosome transfer leading to the skin recovering its natural purity, providing a matte effect to the complexion as well as the prevention and fading of unsightly blemishes.

n Sally Hashemi

Sally Hashemi is the Business Development Manager for Sederma, Croda Inc. Beauty Actives Division She has over 20 years of experience in Sales, Marketing, Product Development, and R&D within the personal care and beauty industry. At Croda, she collaborates with the sales team to develop and create new projects with customers, and identifies new opportunities based on customers’ needs She is responsible for the business development activities across Canada and the Northeaster n United States She received her Bachelor of Science degree in Pure Chemistry from Tehran University in Iran and moved to Canada in August 2006 with prior inter national work experience in the Chemical Industry Sally and her two cats reside in Toronto, Canada. She enjoys cultural diversity, visiting art museums, and live music. Also, she is an artist and paints original pieces in her spare time She has a strong passion for animals and plants

n Michelle Yip

Michelle Yip is the Business Development Specialist for Sederma at Croda Inc. and has over five years of experience in the beauty industry She has a diverse background having roles in Marketing, Synthesis Development, and Sales Along with ACS accreditation, she pursued a Bachelor of Science degree in Chemistry from Stevens Institute of Technology She furthered her studies by obtaining a Master of Science degree in Chemistry with a concentration in Biomedicinal

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Chemistry from Stevens Institute of Technology At Croda, she collaborates with the sales team in the West Coast and Midwest regions to foster innovation and drive successful projects with key customers She has a passion for working with indie brands and sharing her expertise to help them grow and navigate the ever-evolving beauty landscape In addition, she loves to volunteer at local schools for STEM outreach to promote and inspire interest in STEM disciplines. In her spare time, she enjoys perfor ming in community theater, hiking, and finding the newest, trendy foodie spots!

Unlocking the Acne Microbiome

Patrick Gonry (Gobiotics-Ingredients)

Acne is a skin condition that is thought to be caused by an infection of C. acnes. The classic strategy to improve acne skin is to inhibit C acnes On the other hand, C acnes is also known to be a valuable protector of the skin. This creates a paradox as C. acnes seems to be pathogenic and protective at the same time

Through a metagenomics study of the skin microbiome, new insights have been discovered This metagenomics study not only reveals the evolution of the skin microbiome but also uncovers the activity of all the microbes and explains how all the different species communicate with each other The acne paradox will be explained, and we will share the discovery of how a dedicated inulin prebiotic solves the paradox.

n Patrick Gonry

Patrick graduated as a Chemical Engineer at the University of Ghent, Belgium in 1991. Afterwards, he completed an intensive specialization in cosmetic manufacturing and obtained a degree in Dermato-Cosmetic Science at the Medical University of Brussels In 2001, he started the consultancy company S&C, supporting cosmetic producers and raw material suppliers in product development, global legislation, and toxicology Through the years, he has trained many cosmetic chemists and technical sales representatives.

Since 2002 Patrick’s research and passion have been dedicated to the skin microbiota, which resulted in the launch of the first prebiotic ingredient dedicated to baby care and intimate hygiene He is the driving force behind many skin microbiota cosmetics in Europe Through his latest company, Gobiotics-Ingredients, he offers the industry scientific solutions to support skin microbiota claims. He is a deter mined scientist with concrete solutions and a heart for the invisible world on our skin

Understanding the Role of the Gut-Skin Axis in Acne-Prone Skin

Nicole Townsend, Ryan McLendon, Mike Weiser, and Giorgio Dell’Acqua (Nutrafol) n Nicole Townsend

Acne vulgaris is an inflammatory disease of the pilosebaceous unit, typically characterized by comedones, papules, and pustules on the skin surface Conventional solutions for acne care are topical interventions (e g , salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide) or oral pharmaceuticals (e g , isotretinoin) These interventions focus on treating a singular mechanism, such as hydrolyzing sebum in clogged pores, exfoliating, exhibiting antibacterial action, or inhibiting sebaceous gland function (systemic isotretinoin) Recent research has highlighted that the pathogenesis of acne is multi-faceted. Acne can be triggered by hormone fluctuations, stress response, and other lifestyle changes Diet and gut microbiome research have evolved and been implicated in the pathogenesis of acneic skin. Understanding the connection between gut health and skin health can elucidate the underlying, interconnected biological systems that influence the skin’s external expression of an inflammatory response associated with acne.

Nicole is a Research Manager for Nutrafol Research and Innovation She received her undergraduate degree in Biochemistry from Columbia University with

American Chemical Society recognition. Nicole has specialized expertise in hair and skin biology, microbiology, and nutrition, and has helped develop 2+ ingestible formulas and 4+ topical formulations, which are currently on the market n

R yan McLendon is a Senior Research Associate for Nutrafol Research and Innovation. He received his undergraduate degree in Microbiology from University of Tennessee Knoxville and his Master of Science in Molecular Biology from Lipscomb University Ryan has helped Nutrafol in the areas of hair and skin biology, ingredient research, and claims substantiation.

Boosting Skin’s Defense Mechanism Through Phase II Detoxification

Christophe Gonindard, Hanane Chajra, Mathilde Frechet, and Nancy Bezies (Clariant )

When the skin is subjected to oxidative stress caused by toxins, hor mones, pollutants, or a rich diet, sebaceous glands containing sebocytes are activated Their metabolism leads to lipid synthesis, promoting sebum overproduction Skin’s detoxification process converts toxic compounds into non-toxic hydrophilic substances, which can then be easily eliminated However, this detoxification process is often not efficient enough, and results in the accumulation of toxins, triggering skin disorders. BioDTox enhanced the skin cell detoxification process by activating the Nrf2 pathway, which breaks down toxins, protecting against oxidative stress damage and repairing or limiting skin disorders

BioDTox regulated hyperactive sebocytes that produced excessive sebum both in a regular skin in-vitro model to mimic the effect of oxidative stress and in an acne-prone skin model additionally stressed by the polluted environment In clinical testing, BioDTox significantly has an immediate effect on sebum reduction and pore size n

Nancy Bezies is the Business Development Manager for Clariant Actives and Natural Origins and has been working in the personal care industry for five years She holds a Chemical Engineering degree from Worcester Polytechnic Institute