Cosmetiscope October 2018

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OCTOBER 2018 • Vol. 24 No. 8

New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists

www.nyscc.org

Beeswax—Back to Basics …by Belén M. Lemieux and Steven L. Puleo Introduction

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ersonal care is an exciting, evolving field. Our progress is dependent on new regulations, environmental awareness, consumer perceptions, and scientific advancement. In this article we go back to the basics to provide an overview and better understanding of one of the staples of the beauty industry and the oldest wax known to man: beeswax. The definition of wax is still fairly vague. Physically, a wax is a kneadable solid to hard brittle material at room temperature, with a melt point above 40°C and a relatively low viscosity above its melt point.1 Because of this broad definition, waxes are generally classified according to their origin, allowing the chemical composition to be narrowed down within each category. Natural waxes, such as beeswax, are complex mixtures of organic compounds, mainly esters of long chain alcohols and acids.2 Beeswax is produced by honey bees of the genus Apis. Once secreted, it is then modified by the bee into the wax which will be used to build the honey comb, with the main purposes of honey and pollen storage and brood protection.3 Beeswax is one of the oldest cosmetic ingredients in the world. It was first put to use by the ancient people of China and Egypt. Egyptians used it in cosmetics and in hair preparations to hold curls and braids in place. Other documented historical uses include preservation of papyrus scrolls and, later, candle making, specifically for religious ceremonies.2 Today, beeswax is widely used in cosmetics, especially in color cosmetics and lip balms. In 2017, 7% of new product launches in the eye color, lip color, and lip care categories contained beeswax or a beeswax derivative. This means more beauty products are currently being launched with beeswax than with other industry staples such as paraffin, dimethicone, or polyethylene (2%, 5%, and 4.5% of new product launches respectively).4

A Unique Chemistry From a chemical point of view, beeswax is a fascinating ingredient

with a highly complex composition. The major components, monitored via capillary gas chromatography, are listed in Table 1.5,6 Beeswax is secreted on the thorax and abdomen of the Apis honey bee to form cuticular wax (produced by the epidermal cells) and scale wax (produced by abdominal glands) and is initially richer in hydrocarbons. The biosynthesis of hydrocarbons is suggested to come from fatty acetates being elongated and then decarboxylated. Simultaneously, beeswax esters are formed as a result of enzymatic esterification of C20-C32 alcohols with palmitate-Co A (providing the C16 and C18 components). (Continued on page 4)

N Y S C C S U S TA I N A B L E C O S M E T I C S C I E N C E S E M I N A R October 23rd • Chart House, Weehawken, NJ


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2018 NYSCC BOARD OF DIRECTORS & PROGRAM CHAIRS CHAIR Cathy Piterski chair@nyscc.org

CHAIR-ELECT Sonia Dawson chair-elect@nyscc.org

TREASURER Michael Smith Treasurer@nyscc.org

TREASURER-ELECT Stephen Carter treasurer-elect@nyscc.org

SECRETARY Roumelia Alina secretary@nyscc.org

ADVISOR Marie Thadal advisor@nyscc.org

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Letter from the Chair

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…Cathy Piterski

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eptember’s educational programming resonated with our members, contract manufacturers, and others in the cosmetic and personal care industries. I am pleased to share that our Extending Your Invisible Umbrella Symposium, led by Abhijit Bidaye of Croda, was sold out. This program provided in-depth information on skin health, HEV protection, formulating with inorganic sun filters, and the regulatory status of sunscreen filters. For the first time, the NYSCC Scientific Committee hosted a panel at MakeUp in New York and it was standing room only! The NYSCC panel, “What’s Up in Skincare: New Ingredients, New Benefits, New Claims,” was the most popular session at the two-day event and helped us bring important technical information to contract manufacturers and the finished goods market. Giorgio Dell’Acqua organized the panel and opened with a general introduction on “Color Cosmetics with Skin Care Benefits.” For a September home run, our Culinary Event at the Midtown Loft & Terrace in New York City sold out in record time and was enjoyed by 120+ attendees. The chapter also continued its outreach to SCC members across the country and around the world with a presence at the SWSCC Suppliers’ Day in Dallas and the 30th IFSCC Congress in Munich, where we also hosted the lucky winners from Suppliers’ Day in May who won comp tickets to the event focused on: “Cosmetics: Science for Beauty and Lifestyle.” October is also filled with exciting programs and special events with a press conference and reception for Suppliers’ Day media and association partners in New York City. The Sustainable Cosmetic Science Symposium spearheaded by Marc Cornell will take place at one of our favorite venues (Chart House) in Weehawken on October 23rd. On tap for November 7th is the Skin Barrier Disruption and Inflammation Symposium leading into December with planning underway for a very special event to coincide with the SCC’s 72nd Annual Scientific Meeting & Technology Showcase. It is an event-full Fall and I thank our engaged chapter members and committee members who have been working hard to make these NYSCC programs outstanding successes.

HOUSE Suzanne Dawis house@nyscc.org

MEMBERSHIP Mohamed Abdulla mohamed.abdulla@airliquide.com

PROGRAM Steve Herman steveh50@optonline.net

COMMUNICATIONS Theresa Phamduy webmaster@nyscc.org

SPECIAL EVENTS Amy Marshall amy.marshall@altana.com

COSMETISCOPE EDITOR Roger McMullen roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu

COSMETISCOPE ADVERTISING Bret Clark rbclark@ashland.com 2

Upcoming 2018 NYSCC Events Calendar • For updated NYSCC information, visit us on the web at: www.nyscc.org • For National SCC information: www.scconline.org October 23 NYSCC Sustainable Cosmetic Science Seminar – Chart House, Weehawken, NJ November 7 NYSCC Skin Barrier Disruption and Inflammation Seminar – Valley Regency, Clifton, NJ

Call for Papers

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he Cosmetiscope editorial committee invites all interested parties to submit feature technical articles for publication in the NYSCC monthly newsletter. Authors of feature articles are eligible to win the prestigous NYSCC Literature Award ($1,000) for the best front-page article published during the calendar year. Also, authors receive $200 reimbursement to attend a theatrical performance of their choice. Writing an article for your peers is a very rewarding experience, both personally and professionally, and would reserve your place in NYSCC history. You may choose whatever topic you feel would be interesting to fellow colleagues in our industry. We also welcome any other types of commentaries or articles that may be published in the Career Corner, Technical Tidbit section, or as a Letter to the Editor. Please send correspondence to: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu.

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FACEBOOK: NEW YORK LINKED IN: NEW YORK SCC TWITTER: @NYSCC INSTAGRAM: NYSCCMAIN SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS These connections are possible by the NYSCC Social Media Committee

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Beeswax—Back to Basics

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(Continued from page 1)

Table 1. Chemical composition of beeswax. Variation within the range depends on many factors, including geographical region, climate, and bee subspecies.

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Component Monoesters Hydrocarbons Free fatty acids Di and complex esters Hydroxy monoesters Free fatty alcohols Minor components

Quantity 45 – 55% 15 – 18% 10 – 15% 8 – 12% 4 – 6% 1 – 2% 2 – 5%

The minor components of beeswax, called propolis or “bee glue”, are not secreted by the bee but are collected by it from surrounding trees, shrubs, and flowers. Propolis consists of a highly complex mixture of mostly resins, oils, pollen, and avonoids, which give beeswax some of its pliability and yellow color. Newly secreted cuticular and scale wax, along with propolis are all manipulated and chewed by the bee, where they are chemically modified by salivary enzymes, rendering the mix ready for use as comb wax, which now has a different chemical composition richer in monoesters.6 In the case of propolis, the biologically inactive components can become biologically active, which has been of great interest to the scientific community. The physical and chemical properties of beeswax are listed in listed in Table 2.2,5 Table 2. Physical and chemical properties of beeswax. Variation within the range depends on many factors, including geographical region, climate, and bee subspecies. Melting point Cloud point Flash point Specific gravity Iodine value Saponification value Acid value Ester value Unsaponifiables

62 – 65°C < 65°C 242 – 250°C 0.95 – 0.96 8 – 11 89 – 103 17 – 24 72 – 79 45 – 55%

Beeswax is a remarkable cosmetic ingredient. It thickens and structures oils by forming stable gel networks where gel viscosity and hardness are proportional to the percent of beeswax. The gel also depends on the oil/wax compatibility, as is shown in Figure 1.7 In realistic terms, by manipulating very few variables, cosmetic products will range from waxy hard sticks to soft sticky balms. The uniqueness of beeswax lies in its dual functionality as a structuring agent (due to the monoesters, hydrocarbons and fatty acids) and a plasticizer (due to the di- and complex esters), which is important for stick integrity, smooth textures, and even color deposition.The plasticizing properties in beeswax will also help prevent crystallization, sweating, and bloom. This double functionality also simplifies the formulation process.

Figure 1. Gel strength and hardness as a function of % beeswax and oil medium.

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Beeswax also has widespread use as a thickener in emulsion formulas (both oil-in-water and water-inoil), especially where a thick consistency is desired, such as butters or creams. Because of its free fatty acids, beeswax has the ability to form in situ soaps when heated with a base, therefore doubling as an emulsifier as well as a thickener. This is the basis of traditional cold creams, which have been in use since 400 AD. The complex composition of beeswax and its unique chemistry allow for the preparation of many derivatives, usually via esterification of the free fatty acids with suitable alcohols. Derivatives increase the functionality and application range of beeswax.

A Fascinating Story Beeswax is unique from a marketing perspective as well. It offers countless benefits, such as skin protection, natural origin, anti-microbial properties, and UV absorption.6 Beeswax is globally approved, biodegradable, non-toxic,8 non-irritant, and non-comedogenic.9 It can be certified natural and/or organic by NPA, COSMOS, USDA, Ecocert, and other certifying bodies. It is offered in different grades,such as NF (USP), and can be purchased with different certifications allowing for attractive packaging callouts, including organic, kosher, halal, non-GMO, sustainable, ethically sourced, made in the USA, and many more. Honey bees are fascinating social insects. Success of the colony depends on following a firm hierarchy, proper division of labor, and the ability to change behavior based on a series of chemical and tactile interactions.10 Working as a team, Apis mellifera bees produce beeswax and honey, but also pollinate our crops. In the United States more than one-third of all crop production—ranging from nuts to berries to flowering vegetables—requires insect pollination.11 Consumers unknowingly rely on commercial beekeepers to provide pollination services to farms, and beekeepers, in a reciprocal partnership, provide optimum conditions for bees to thrive. Ironically, consumers swayed by the increasingly visible animal rights and vegan movements, as well as the shortcomings in animal welfare laws in the United States are also putting beekeeping and beeswax harvesting under scrutiny.12,13 The facts are as follows: bees are not used as cosmetic raw materials, they are not exterminated for their beeswax, and they are not used as substrates for cosmetic testing. Worldwide, bees are not harmed in the farming process. In fact, bees must be kept in optimal conditions in order to thrive and be productive. It is not in beekeepers’ best interest to harm their bees, as bee product trade and pollination are part of their livelihood. In developing areas of the world, entire villages depend on the income from honey and beeswax trade.

Concluding Remarks Beeswax is a well established, indispensable raw material in the cosmetic industry. Our goal should be to protect this resource and continue to understand beeswax, its chemistry, and its possibilities. Formulators and cosmetic chemists will find it to be an effective thickener, film former, plasticizer, and emulsifier. Every stage of the beeswax journey is exciting, and it all begins with a young honey bee emerging from her hexagon. _____________________________________________

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References 1. J.D. Bower, Waxes. In Coatings Technology Handbook, 3rd ed., Ed. A.A. Tracton, CRC Press: Boca Raton, FL, 2005. 2. S. Puleo and T.P. Rit, Natural waxes: past, present and future, Lipid Technol., 4, 82-90 (1992). 3. W.L. Coggshall and R.A. Morse, Beeswax Production, Harvesting, Processing and Products, Wicwas Press: Ithaca, NY, 1984. 4. Data gathered from Mintel GNPD, http://www.gnpd.com/sinatra/gnpd/search/ (December 20, 2017). 5. Koster Keunen, Inc., 2014, NF Beeswax Technical Data Sheet, Koster Keunen, Inc. Watertown, CT. 6. S.L. Puleo, Beeswax minor components: a new approach, Cosmet. Toil., 106(2), 83-89 (1991). 7. T. P. Rit, proprietary data (unpublished). 8. Koster Keunen, Inc., 2016, Beeswax SDS, Koster Keunen, Inc., Watertown, CT. 9. J.E. Fulton, Comedogenicity and irritancy of commonly used ingredients in skin care products, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 40, 321-333 (1989). 10. H.R. Hepburn, Honeybees and Wax, Springer-Verlag: Berlin, Germany, 1986. 11. A. Bartuska, Being serious about saving bees, U.S. Department of Agriculture, https://www.usda.gov/media/blog/2017/06/20/being-serious-about- saving-bees (December 27, 2017). (Continued on page 6)

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Beeswax—Back to Basics

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(Continued from page 5)

12. Animal Welfare Act of 1966, 7 USC § 2131-2132, https://www.gpo.gov/fdsys/pkg/ USCODE-2015title7/html/USCODE-2015-title7-chap54.htm (December 29, 2017). 13. 2014, H.R. 4148 – Humane Cosmetics Act, Congress.gov, https://www.congress. gov/bill/113thcongress/house-bill/4148 (December 20, 2017). _____________________________________________

About the Authors Belén M. Lemieux

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elén M. Lemieux is the Lead Chemist at Koster Keunen, Inc. in Watertown, CT. Originally from Madrid, she earned an M.S. in Organic Chemistry from the University of Salamanca. She began her career in the industrial sector, discovering a passion for the science of cosmetic formulations and the artistic angle involved. Ms. Lemieux has been an active product developer and researcher for over ten years, recently focusing on beeswax and other waxes as cosmetic raw materials. Her most recent paper “To bee or not to bee” was published in Happi Magazine, and her formulations have been featured in numerous industry publications and serve as instructive materials for Koster Keunen worldwide.

Steven L. Puleo

S S p e c i a l t y Es t e r s

Employment Opportunities

PROTAMERS

teven L. Puleo is currently Vice-president of R&D at Koster Keunen USA. He is a wax, lipid, polymer, and organic chemistry technology expert and has experience in application and prototype development in the areas of cosmetics, pharmaceutical products, ink, house hold products, coatings, automotive, textiles, and candles. Steven began his career as a research chemist and steadily grew into leadership roles, and now helps to drive the growth of Koster Keunen with developing new applications and marketing new raw materials on an international level. Mr. Puleo is respected for his technical expertise and market savvy. He has provided training and marketing education to global distributors and sales agents. He has served twice as the Chair for the Connecticut SCC. Mr. Puleo’s current research includes new molecule synthesis for raw material development and new application technology. He has had multiple publications in various disciplines that include wax chemistry and sunscreen enhancement.

For complete ads please go to the NYSCC website: www.nyscc.org.

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NYSCC Sustainable Cosmetic Science Seminar October 23, 2018 • 4:00 – 8:00 p.m. Chart House, Weehawken, NJ

Event Chair: Marc Cornell • mcornell@mar-keyconsulting.com

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ustainability is good for life, and business! The cosmetic industry has seen many trends over the years. By definition, this current global consumer driven sustainability push is here to stay. Everything is on the table now. Cosmetic chemists need to know about blacklisted materials, Proposition 65, and other hot buttons, all while continuing to provide innovative cost effective cosmetics that catch the consumer’s eye. Our sustainability seminar will focus on two topics: sustainable cosmetic actives produced via biofermentation and how we formulate with the latest green functional materials so we meet the “free from” no-no list that continues to grow.

n Agenda

4:00 – 4:30 p.m. Registration 4:30 – 5:30 p.m. Enhancing Cosmetic and Therapeutic Ingredient Development Through Sustainable Fermentation Technologies – James V. Gruber, Ph.D. (Jeen International) 5:30 – 7:00 p.m. Cocktail hour/dinner 7:00 – 8:00 p.m. Greener Formulation Options – Christopher Johnson (Kinetik Technologies) n Registration

Please visit the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org) to register. _____________________________________________

Speaker Abstracts and Biographies Enhancing Cosmetic and Therapeutic Ingredient Development Through Sustainable Fermentation Technologies – James V. Gruber, Ph.D.

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ermentation has been practiced as an art of preservation and flavor enhancement since mankind created civilizations. At its basics, fermentation is controlled spoilage and likely happened first by accident before humans began to understand the benefits of what controlling spoilage means. However, with the advent of development of specialized bioreactors and equipment to control both liquid and solid fermentation, the practice of the art has expanded considerably. Most people know, for example, that cabbage and other vegetables can be fermented by naturally-occurring microorganisms to provide the Korean specialty called kimchi. Likewise, tea leaves are regularly fermented to enhance the flavor and benefits of (Continued on page 8)

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NYSCC Sustainable Cosmetic Science Seminar

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(Continued from page 7)

the teas produced by the leaves. Most people know that under the right conditions, sugars are converted by yeast, like Saccharomyces cerevisiae, to produce alcohol via controlled fermentation. What makes fermentation attractive is that it can be done using a modest investment in fermentation equipment. Once a fermentation system is set up, it can be used over and over to produce countless ingredients that can find their way into nutrition, cosmetic, and therapeutic applications. The process of fermentation can be simple, as the kimchi example above suggests, or it can be quite intricate as may be required to produce a biological therapeutic or pharmaceutical product. It is the repetitive nature of the process that allows it to be very sustainable. This talk will summarize the art of fermentation and will focus on ingredients that have been developed for cosmetic applications via the methods of fermentation. It will discuss how various types of microorganisms can produce unique products and properties via fermentation. The talk will also touch on products on the market known to contain fermentation-based ingredients and on some of the regulations and beliefs that control the claims that can be made from fermentation-produced ingredients. n James V.

Gruber, Ph.D.

Dr. James (Vince) Gruber has recently joined Jeen International as the Director of New Technologies where he works with the teams at Jeen to develop new ideas and technologies for the personal care, cosmetic, and therapeutic industries. Prior to joining Jeen, Dr. Gruber held positions at Botaneco, Sensient, Arch (Lonza), and Union Carbide (Amerchol) leading diverse technical teams and developing active and functional ingredients employing, in many cases, fermentation-based product development technologies. He is the author of 19 refereed articles including 13 referenced in PubMed and holds 10 granted U.S. Patents and additional published World Patent applications. He has authored numerous edited articles and book chapters and is an author and co-editor of the book Principals of Polymer Science and Technology in Cosmetics and Personal Care, co-edited by Desmond Goddard and published by Francis Taylor. _____________________________________________

Greener Formulation Options – Christopher Johnson

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ustainable cosmetic science is applied today in many parts of the consumer market. One market trend (sustainability) is pushing formulation strategies to be greener and more eco-friendly. These requirements present challenges and opportunities for cosmetic formulators. Chris will speak about some of the latest functional raw materials available to meet this trend. n Christopher

Johnson

Chris has been a businessman and technical cosmetic expert for over 20 years. He is the Managing Director at Kinetik. His background in product development and application is uniquely on display where he leads Kinetik in providing sustainable chemistries to the cosmetic industry. He can be reached at chj@kinetiktech.com or +1 (908) 342-2109.

Monthly Meeting Group Discount The NYSCC is offering a group discount of 15% to companies who send 5 or more employees to a monthly meeting. All five employees would need to be registered at the same time to receive the discount. Once purchased, registrations are non-refundable.

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NYSCC Culinary Event Highlights September 20, 2018 Midtown Loft & Terrace, New York, NY

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he NYSCC culinary event hosted on September 20th at the Midtown Loft in New York City was a success! Thank you attendees for your support. It was a great evening with beautiful weather. We extend our sincere appreciation to our sponsors: Solabia, Elementis, Paradigm Science, and Independent Chemical for their support. Also, many thanks to our very interesting speaker, Mr. Paolo Marchesi, who introduced us to innovations on the subject of food trends in personal care (see his presentation abstract and biography below). And, of course, this event would not have been possible without the support of the NYSCC and the planning committee, who did a great job at organizing the event.

With strong roots, we’re green and growing.

Superfoods in Cosmetics – Paolo Marchesi

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ood trends influence the cosmetics and beauty sector with a twist. Food in cosmetics is not new as there are plenty of ingredients which have been used in cosmetic products—from the controversial palm oil to the more appealing extracts and oily derivatives. The superfood trend is already here. Today the novelty in this movement is that food ingredients are obtained from food by-products. Beauty companies want to avoid competition with the food chain at all cost. Food is for humans, and by-products are an invaluable source of ingredients. What's next? Food from specific regions? As much as we love to give our food an origin (the potato from Idaho), more than likely cosmetics will follow. Soon we will enjoy a foodie experience when using our cosmetics: grapes from France, tomatoes from Italy…

n Paolo

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Marchesi

Paolo Marchesi has a Bachelor’s degree in Chemistry from the University of Milan and a Master’s in Surface Science from the Imperial College of London. Paolo gradually moved from R&D to Management in the early years of his professional career, working with large multinational companies like Arkema, Elementis, Chromavis, and Soliance (now Givaudan). In August 2017 Paolo joined 32 Actives and Deveraux Specialties as Chief Strategic Officer to manage the teams through the incredible growth of the last few years. Also, he is in charge of Sales on the East Coast and works with most of the vendors in Europe and around the world to find new ingredients and new opportunities. In his 20 years of experience in the personal care sector, Paolo has worked with commodities, specialty chemicals, and active ingredients from natural, synthetic, and biotechnology sources.

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Valley Regency, Clifton, NJ

Event Chair: Carine Mainzer, Ph.D. • c.mainzer@silabinc.com

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oin us on November 7th for our Skin Barrier Disruption and Inflammation Seminar hosted at the Valley Regency and sponsored by Silab! Learn about cellular communication underlying barrier breakage and topical therapies for atopic dermatitis. Two experts, including keynote speaker Dr. Peter Elias, will address the importance of lipids, lipid signaling, and cell-to-cell communication for providing solid barrier function and participating in cutaneous defenses. We are looking forward to seeing you at this event hosted at the Valley Regency in Clifton, New Jersey. Special gratitude goes to our sponsor Silab. n Agenda

4:00 – 4:30 p.m. Registration 4:30 – 5:30 p.m. Upon Barrier Breakage and Bacterial Invasion, How Do Skin Cells Communicate to Immune Effectors? – Carine Mainzer, Ph.D. (Silab, Inc.) 5:30 – 7:00 p.m. Cocktail hour/dinner 7:00 – 8:00 p.m. Topical Therapy for Atopic Dermatitis: Occlusive Moisturizers Versus Physiologic Lipid Barrier Repair Approaches – Peter M. Elias, M.D. (University of California San Francisco) n Registration

Please visit the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org) to register.

Make note of it… Send news of interest, guest editorials, and comments to Roger McMullen, Editor • E-mail: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu

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