NOVEMBER 2014 • Vol. 20 No. 9
New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists
www.nyscc.org
Biodegradable Microbead Alternatives for Cosmetics … by Max Senechal
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he plastic microbeads commonly used as an ingredient in cosmetics mostly go unnoticed because they are so small and used in small amounts. Sizes range broadly from less than 10 microns to hundreds of microns and vary in composition, hardness, and shape. They comprise less than 5% of everyday consumer household and personal care products such as cosmetics, skin care preparations, cleansers, and lotions, as well as many industrial products such as inks, coatings, and adhesives. These powders are typically made from synthetic plastics such as polyethylene and polypropylene and from various waxes—each selected for the function it provides to the recipe. In scrubs and toothpaste they function as micro-abrasives, in inks to produce matting, in lotions to improve the touch and feel, and sometimes as process aids in manufacturing. These plastic particles are generally washed down the drain after use and are not easily recoverable in water treatment systems or paper and packaging recycle facilities. Not typically biodegradable, they float along in water passing through the wastewater treatment systems where they will linger as pollution in the environment. Collecting in lakes, rivers, and oceans, they can potentially endanger marine life that mistakes them for food where they enter the food chain. Even alternatives that are water soluble, but still non-biodegradable, will eventually accumulate and linger in the lakes and oceans as unseen pollution. Legislation restricting use of these synthetic, non-biodegradable microbeads is moving forward quickly. Illinois passed the first ban and other states have also introduced bills. The bills in Illinois and New York were both titled “Microbead-Free Waters Act,” reflecting the concern about these small plastic particles as marine pollution. Now there are proposals in front of the U.S. senate for similar legislation nationwide. There are differences between these bills that reflect the state-by-state approach to the new regulation. For example, the new Illinois law defines a “Synthetic Plastic Microbead” as “any intentionally added non-biodegradable solid plastic particle measured less than 5 millimeters in size and that is used to exfoliate or cleanse in a rinse-off product.” The definition goes further, proactively naming prohibited plastic types (synthetic, non-biodegradable types of plastic such as polyethylene) and relevant personal care product types (rinse-off). California’s draft acknowledges “many biodegradable, natural alternatives” in the preamble to the bill. Standards for demonstrating minimum levels of actual marine biodegradability can help consumers and regulators distinguish non-biodegradable polyethylene and waxes from biodegradable alternatives. These standards define how fast the material must biodegrade to completion and the proper test methodologies for measuring the results. The pace and extent is a function of the temperature and the level of microbial activity in the relevant environment. Saltwater marine environments where (Continued on page 4)
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The Synthesis and Analysis of Functional Polymers January 14, 2015 • The Terrace at Biagio’s, Paramus, NJ
New Date!
293 County Road 62 (Paramus Road), Paramus, NJ 07652 Open registration: 4:00 PM Educational Hour: 4:30 PM • Dinner: 5:30 PM Chapter Meeting Speaker: 6:30 PM
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Ethan Glor Kinetic Facilitation of Interfaces in Thin Entangled Polymer Films
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morphous polymeric materials are used in a wide array of technologies ranging from organic electronics to structural components of airplanes. As many of these technologies trend towards nanometer length scales, it is imperative to have a fundamental understanding of the properties of polymer glasses at the length scale, geometry, and environment of the application. Recent work in polymer physics shows that the structural relaxation time near a free surface of a thin polystyrene film is significantly different from that of the bulk polymer. This can have a large influence on their properties. For instance, studies have shown that polystyrene thin films exhibit a decreased glass transition temperature (Tg) as the thickness decreases below 60 nm. A puzzling aspect of this phenomenon is that most studies indicate that there is no molecular weight dependence on Tg reduction in supported films, while the same phenomenon in freestanding polystyrene films shows strong molecular weight dependence. In this study, we use cooling-rate dependent Tg measurements to indirectly probe the relaxation dynamics of thin polystyrene films, and show they are directly influenced by the dynamics of the free surface. Furthermore, we show that the relaxation dynamics of supported polystyrene films slow down slightly as the molecular weight of polystyrene is increased.
Biography:
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than Glor is a Ph.D. candidate in Chemistry at the University of Pennsylvania. His current work under Dr. Zahra Fakhraai consists of gaining new insight into the dynamics of amorphous polymeric materials in the hopes of eventually preparing polymeric glasses with high density and high kinetic stability. Ethan was awarded an Honorable Mention for the National Science Foundation Graduate Research Fellowship in 2013, and is a 2011 graduate of Haverford College with a B.S. degree in Chemistry.
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Elizabeth Kaufman The Effect of Generation on Cellular Uptake of Dendrimers
Speaker: Topic:
PTFE Additives for Personal Care Products
Beauty is More Than Skin Deep
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oly(amide)-based dendrimers have shown potential as scaffolds for cell delivery agents when used in conjunction with the peptide gH625, a peptide encompassing 625–644 residues of the glycoprotein H of herpes simplex virus 1. The peptide has been shown to transport cargo across cell membranes as well as have mild antiviral activity in vitro. Dendrimers were chosen as a scaffold due to the modular nature of their synthesis. The synthesis of mono-functionalized dendrimers has been explored and optimized by our research group. It has been shown that when covalently attached to the termini of a second-generation (one having 18 termini) dendrimer scaffold, the chosen peptide enters cells more efficiently. Varying the generation of dendrimers may give dendrimer-based delivery systems an advantage over traditional linear polymeric systems. An array of dendrimer scaffolds with varying termini onto which the active peptide can be attached was synthesized. For comparison testing, linear analogs to the first and second-generation dendrimers were synthesized. Cell studies are planned to determine the most efficient transmembrane transport system.
shamrocktechnologies.com
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lizabeth Kaufman is a researcher and Ph.D. candidate in the Molecular Design Institute of the NYU Graduate School of Chemistry. Her current research under Dr. Marcus Weck, centers on biological applications of the class of perfectly branched molecules known as dendrimers, particularly with regard to the cellular uptake of such systems to optimize a cellular delivery system. Kaufman was granted a McCracken Award in 2011 and became a Kramer Award recipient in 2014. Kaufman's undergraduate research focused on synthesis of organically templated gallium sulfates. Kaufman is a 2011 graduate of Haverford College with a B.S. degree in Chemistry.
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Upcoming SCC Continuing Education December 10
Fragrance As A Science
December 10
Regulatory Update
For more information, please visit www.scconline.org.
Annual Scientific Meeting & Technology Showcase
contact@rossow-usa.com +1 (855) 776-7769 www.rossow-usa.com
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December 11th & 12th New York Hilton Hotel & Towers New York City
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Biodegradable Microbead Alternatives sensiva® – multifunctional additives designed for your innovation euxyl® – optimum preservation according to your needs
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microbial activity is typically present at the lowest levels, at the coldest average temperatures, are perhaps the most relevant in the context of microbead regulation. Currently, none of the bills refer to industrial standards for materials that will biodegrade in marine or aquatic environments. ASTM D7081 “Standard Specification for Non-floating Biodegradable Plastics in the Marine Environment” is an example of such an industry Standard Specification that has been in place for eight years now and is currently undergoing procedural revision for renewal of another term. Effort is also underway to harmonize these standards internationally. A recognized independent laboratory should verify marine biodegradability against the current industry standard test methods. Figure 1. PHA microbead alternatives biodegrade fast in water. PHAs made with While these legislative activities represent real steps toward natural raw materials have been shown by reducing the release of potentially harmful synthetic microplastics independent labs to biodegrade rapidly in in cosmetics as pollution, the state-by-state differences can natural aqueous environments. present difficulties for suppliers of personal care products who must find effective approaches to reformulating their products that are acceptable across state and country borders. Including broadly accepted definitions and standards in legislation would go a long way to enabling acceptable marine degradable alternative materials in reformulating products. Several leading personal care products companies are spearheading the effort to phase out non-biodegradable plastic ingredients and are searching for natural and biodegradable alternatives that will perform as well as their predecessors. PHA (polyhydroxyalkanoate) powders are one alternative Figure 2. Plastic pollution found in our made from renewable resources that have the required physical waterways and oceans comes mostly from characteristics and biodegrade naturally, swiftly, and completely litter that is not properly recycled or disposed, and over time is reduced down into fine in marine and fresh water environments. PHAs do not float in particles. Non-marine degradable synthetic water and can be easily captured in the sludge stream of wasteplastic microbeads intentionally used as water treatment facilities—an ideal environment for them to ingredients in personal care products cannot be recycled or properly disposed and will naturally biodegrade. Furthermore, PHAs have been demonstrated introduce these fine particulates directly to “easily reach the required pass levels prescribed by ASTM into natural aqueous environments. D7081” in testing by certified, independent labs. Interests are converging among consumers, legislators, brand owners, and cosmetic formulators to take a second look at the environmental impact of synthetic plastic microbeads and to take steps to select innovative alternatives that are natural and biodegradable.
About the author: Max Senechal is Vice-president of strategy and commercial development for Metabolix’s biopolymers business bringing more than 20 years of experience in the chemicals industry. At Metabolix, Senechal is responsible for the development and commercialization of the Mirel® PHA biopolymer product line.
Make note of it… Send news of interest, guest editorials, and comments to Roger McMullen, Editor • E-mail: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu 4
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Upcoming Industry Events_________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________ Making Cosmetics/ Formulating Cosmetics
HBA Global
November 25-26, 2014
New York, NY More info: www.hbaexpo.com _________________________________________________________
June 9-11, 2015
Centro Congressi Milanofiori, Milan, Italy More info: www.making-cosmetics.it _________________________________________________________
Makeup in São Paulo
In-Cosmetics Korea 2015 June 15-16, 2015
December 3-4, 2014 São Paulo, Brazil More info: www.makeup-in-saopaulo.com _________________________________________________________
Seoul, South Korea More info: www.in-cosmeticsasia.com/in-cosmetics-Korea _________________________________________________________
Beauty India 2014
C&T Summit
December 11-13, 2014
June 22-23, 2015
Mumbai, India More info: www.beautyvisionindia.com _________________________________________________________
University of Pennsylvania Philadelphia, PA More info: http://summit.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/register/ _________________________________________________________
Personal Care Products Council 2015 Annual Meeting February 22-25, 2015
DWI HairS’15
Palm Beach, FL More info: www.personalcarecouncil.org _________________________________________________________
September 2-4, 2015
Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna 2015
Germany More info: www.dwi.rwth-aachen.de _________________________________________________________
March 20-23, 2015
IFSCC Conference 2015
Bologna, Italy More info: www.cosmoprof.com _________________________________________________________
September 21-23, 2015
Face & Body Midwest Spa Conference and Expo 2015 March 21-23, 2015 Chicago, IL More info: www.faceandbody.com/midwest
Zurich, Switzerland More info: www.ifscc2015.com _________________________________________________________
SCC California Suppliers’ Day 2015 Conference & Exhibition October 14-15, 2015
_________________________________________________________
Long Beach, CA More info: www.caliscc.org _________________________________________________________
In-Cosmetics 2015
In-Cosmetics Asia 2015
April 14-16, 2015
November 3-5, 2015
Barcelona, Spain More info: www.in-cosmetics.com
Bangkok, Thailand More info: www.in-cosmeticsasia.com
Upcoming 2014-15 NYSCC Events Calendar • For updated NYSCC information, visit us on the web at: www.nyscc.org • For National SCC information: www.scconline.org December 11-12
January 14
SCC Annual Scientific Meeting and Showcase New York Hilton Hotel & Towers, New York City NYSCC Chapter Meeting, The Terrace at Biagio’s, Paramus NJ
TBD
NYSCC Golf Outing, Location TBD
TBD
NYSCC CulinarynEvent, Location TBD
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2014 IFSCC Congress – Paris
…Abrienda Valdez he Société Française de Cosmétologie hosted the 28th IFSCC Congress in Paris, France on October 27th-30th. More than 1,500 scientists and other interested parties attended from all reaches of the globe. This is a significant turnout considering the struggling economies in so many parts of the world. Those who could attend experienced a wonderful event chock-full of scientific presentations and poster technology sessions. Overall, it was a wonderful week in Paris— one of the world’s most vibrant cities still steaming with love, passion, and intellect. In most symposia and conferences dedicated to cosmetic science, a considerable amount of the presented research is dedicated to some facet of molecular biology investigating the activity of a specialty ingredient or studying the influence of some environmental stressor, such as solar radiation, discussing the up- or down-regulation of key molecular species in relevant skin cells. This was also certainly true in the case of the IFSCC Congress in Paris in which one of the two first-day sessions (each session lasting the entire day) was dedicated to “Beauty and Life Science.” Not surprisingly, the concurrent session on the first day was “Beauty and Color,” another extremely hot topic in cosmetic circles. The Beauty and Life Science session was essentially a full day of presentations on various topics related to skin care biology. Some of the most interesting of these subjects consisted of microRNA expression patterns in keratinocytes, inhibition of adipogenesis, epidermal keratinocyte stem cells, induced pluripotent stem cells, and molecular architecture of the lower layers of the stratum corneum. Beauty and Color spanned across the cosmetic science spectrum covering key technologies mostly related to the artistry of makeup. These consisted of topics discussing various aspects of pigments, mascaras, foundations, and lipsticks. There were also several papers dedicated to the subject of skin optics, especially in the investigation of the enhancement of skin tone. On the second day of the Congress a session on Beauty and Society delved into many of the contemporary issues facing cosmetic companies, especially in regards to sustainability, but also with some elements of green chemistry. A concurrent session on the second day, Beauty and Surface Shield: Physicochemistry, was a material scientist’s dream. There were intriguing discussions about soft matter models of tissue, stratum corneum lipid packing arrangements, Raman spectroscopy of skin, free radical chemistry in skin, and sunscreen technologies. At the end of the second day, L’Oréal conducted a symposium dedicated to the subject of Beautiful Sustainable Innovation. It was a ninety-minute event with various talks
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that presented L’Oréal’s strategy as a sustainable enterprise in the cosmetic industry. The third day of the event contained two sessions, Beauty and Protective Strategy within the Skin and Beauty and Sensoriality. Beauty and Protective Strategy within the Skin mostly stayed on the topic of protection from solar radiation, but also covered several aspects of acne vulgaris. As indicated by its title, Beauty and Sensoriality dealt with a variety of issues surrounding sensory science in the cosmetic community. A keynote presentation on the contribution of cognitive neurosciences and behavioral sciences to cosmetics set the pace for this intriguing session. In addition, there were discussions on the textural properties of cosmetics, emotion perception of scents, correlation of consumer perceived sensorial properties to instrumental evaluation, and, even, human voice pattern and facial expression analysis to determine consumer preference. While the presentations were first rate and very interesting, the most exciting part of the Congress scientific program was the poster session. There were a staggering four hundred sixty-four posters presented at the conference. Do not allow the number itself to persuade you of the quality of the poster sessions. In fact, the poster sessions were quite intimate events that were spread across eight different rooms for the duration of the IFSCC Congress. Ample time was allotted to the poster sessions each day fostering lively discussions in the poster session rooms. Posters came from finished goods producers, specialty chemical manufacturers, and academia. Many of them presented high caliber science that touched on problems facing today’s cosmetic scientist. The social program that accompanied the event was extraordinary. The first night of the congress, the IFSCC had a private tour of the Louvre followed by a moonlight dinner under the pyramid structure that serves as a hallmark for the museum. The closing ceremony held on the last evening of the congress took place in the Musée des Arts Forains. A considerable portion of the museum is dedicated to objects from carnivals, and includes carousels, merry-go-rounds, and other amusement rides. Overall, the congress was a great success and the Société Française de Cosmétologie deserves special recognition for organizing this event, especially for the efforts of Gérard Redziniak (IFSCC Chairperson) and Claudie Wilhem (SFC President/IFSCC Vice-president).
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Making Personal Personal Car Caree Beautiful®
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DWI Leibniz-Institut für Interaktive Materialien HairS’15 19th International Hair Science Syposium • Trier, Germany croda.com/na/pc
September 2-4, 2015 Call for Papers – End of November 2014 Abstract Submission
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Proposals for oral/poster presentation (1 page max.) should be sent to hairs15@dwi.rwth-aachen.de by March 27, 2015.
Symposium Fee Early bird fees for registration and payment by August 1, 2015 are: • 770€ for participants • 590€ for DWI member companies • 330€ for speakers (one presenting author per oral presentation, no reduction for poster authors) Fee includes meals, coffee breaks, excursion, conference dinner, book of abstracts, and conference proceedings.
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Rhodia is now Solvay
Personal Care Products Council 2015 Annual Meeting
Still offering exceptional products & service New Products MiracareÂŽ GBC The clear choice for tear-free, Ethoxylate-free baby cleansing
The Breakers • Palm Beach, FL
February 22-25, 2015 More info: www.personalcarecouncil.org
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very day, millions of consumers around the world rely on personal care products to live better, healthier lives. From moisturizers, lipsticks, and fragrances to sunscreens, soaps, and anti-cavity toothpastes, these products are essential to today’s consumer lifestyles. The personal care products industry is a global industry with more than $250 billion in annual retail sales. The Personal Care Products Council (formerly the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association) is the leading national trade association for the cosmetic and personal care products industry and represents the most innovative names in beauty today. For more than 600 member companies, we are the voice on scientific, legal, regulatory, legislative, and international issues for the personal care product industry. We are a leading and trusted source of information for and about the industry and a vocal advocate for consumer safety and continued access to new, innovative products.
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The US Society of Cosmetic Chemists hosts the 29th IFSCC Congress O
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October 23-26, 2016 Lake Buena Vista, Florida
BEY
Walt Disney World Dolphin Resort
29TH CONGRESS
O R L A N D O, F L 2 016 INSPIRE IMAGINE INNOVATE
Beyond Dreams into New Frontiers: Inspire, Imagine, Innovate V O L U M E
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Employment Opportunities For complete ads please go to the NYSCC website: https://nyscc.org/employment/employment-listings/
24/7 Online Ingredient Information:
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Label The Natural Solution ®
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In the New York SCC Region:
Essential Ingredients Michael Manning 201.576.9382 mmanning@essentialingredients.com
n R&D CHEMIST Sombra Cosmetics Inc., a personal care manufacturer in Albuquerque, NM, is looking for an R&D Chemist to assist with formulations of personal care products of lotions, cleansers, SPF products, etc. n SENIOR CHEMIST Lonza has an immediate opening for a Senior Chemist at their Alpharetta, Georgia location. n ACCOUNT MANAGER – BEAUTY CARE BU SEPPIC Inc., a leading Global Specialty Ingredients supplier, has an opportunity for an Account Manager to cover part of the East Coast territory. This position will be based partly out of our Fairfield, NJ office and home office. n ASSOCIATE SCIENTIST – CLINICAL RESEARCH BASF has an opening for an Associate Scientist at its Tarrytown, NY location.
The Soul & Science of Beauty. www.evonik.com/personal-care
n DIRECTOR – REGULATORY AFFAIRS Chanel has an open position at its Piscataway, NJ headquarters to oversee all activities to ensure regulatory compliance of formulas, packaging, and documentation. n CHEMIST & SENIOR CHEMIST – DEVELOPMENT LABORATORIES L'Oréal Americas, located in Clark, NJ, has two open positions—Chemist and Senior Chemist—in their Development Laboratories. n SENIOR CHEMIST Barnet Products Corp., a leading supplier of unique specialty chemical ingredients to the Cosmetic and Personal Care industry, has an opportunity for a Senior Chemist based out of their Englewood Cliffs, NJ office. n SKIN CARE TECHNICAL MARKETING MANAGER The Lubrizol Corporation, a Berkshire Hathaway company, has a challenging opportunity as North American Technical Marketing Manager for skin care at their Brecksville, OH (near Cleveland) location. n GLOBAL R&D MANAGER – HAIR CARE The Lubrizol Corporation, a Berkshire Hathaway company, has an open position as Global R&D Manager at their Brecksville, OH (near Cleveland) location.
Call for Papers
T ™ Nature’s Science. Our Technology. Your Beauty.
he Cosmetiscope editorial committee invites all interested parties to submit feature technical articles for publication in the NYSCC monthly newsletter. Authors of feature articles are eligible to win the prestigous NYSCC Literature Award ($1,000) for the best front-page article published during the calendar year. Also, authors receive $200 reimbursement to attend a theatrical performance of their choice. Writing an article for your peers is a very rewarding experience, both personally and professionally, and would reserve your place in NYSCC history. You may choose whatever topic you feel would be interesting to fellow colleagues in our industry. We also welcome any other types of commentaries or articles that may be published in the Career Corner, Technical Tidbit section, or as a Letter to the Editor. Please send correspondence to: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu.
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