DECEMBER 2018 • Vol. 24 No. 10
New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists
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www.nyscc.org
Aquaporins
quaporins are transmembrane protein structures located in the cell walls of animals, plants, and bacteria that transport water molecules into the cytoplasm of adjacent cells to maintain water homeostasis. Since water is essential for all known life forms, the importance of their discovery cannot be underestimated. Peter Agre’s discovery of aquaporins in the 1990s earned him a 2003 Nobel Prize in Chemistry. Professor Agre’s research proved that aquaporin channels bridge cell membranes and allow water, and sometimes structurally similar types of molecules, to enter the cytoplasm and actually be transported from cell to cell. Diffusion of water through phospholipid bilayers via osmosis occurs at a much slower rate. An aquaporin protein is comprised of six trans-membrane alpha helices tilted in right-hand bundles. They are not arranged as stand-alone monomers, but rather as tetramers (groups of four aquaporin monomers linked together) with a central channel running between them. At this time no one appears to be certain about the role of the central channel.1 There are many types of aquaporins. There are aquaporin-0, 1, 2, 4, 5, and 8, which are channels that permit only the transport of water. Aquaporins-3, 7, 9, and 10 are called aquaglyceroporins and they are water, glycerin (a.k.a. glycerol), and urea channels. Aquaporins-6, 11, and 12 have also been elucidated. Gonen and Walz measured the dimensions of the aquaporin-3 channel and determined it has a pore width of 8-10 ångströms. They also noted hydrophilic molecules ranging between 150-200 ångströms may pass through the channel, but it is completely impermeable to charged species, which protects the critically important electrochemical potential difference of the cell membrane.2
…by Joseph Albanese
Water molecules are actually transported through the aquaporin pores in single file. Brewster provides a good written description of how aquaporins function.3 One can also watch an entertaining and informative two-minute video online entitled “Aquaporins Claymation Project” to see how aquaporins work.4 While aquaporins appear in many types of cells in the human body, the primary one in skin is aquaporin-3. Specifically, aquaporin-3 is an aquaglyceroporin transporting not only water, but also glycerol and urea in epidermal cells. Nothing else can get through the channels. There is a wellaccepted direct correlation between the levels of aquaporin-3 and degree of skin hydration. One proof of this is that aquaporin-3 knockout mice have reduced glycerol levels in epidermis.5 Aquaporin-3 transports water, glycerol, and urea into the skin supporting skin elasticity and lipid synthesis. It is a key factor in maintaining adequate skin hydration. While the epidermis is normally 30% water, deeper dermal tissue is about 70% water. Reduced aquaporin-3 levels can cause xerosis and are also observed in aged and chronic sunexposed skin.6-8 Emollients (silicones, long-chain alcohols, oils, petroleum derivatives, etc.) and other skin conditioning agents may form a water-impermeable occlusive layer on the surface of skin to prevent trans-epidermal water loss (TEWLS) and help keep skin supple and smooth to the touch. Humectants—being hygroscopic—are capable of attracting ambient atmospheric water. Glycerol is an endogenous humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum creating a reservoir important for elasticity and lipid synthesis. Natural moisturizing factor (NMF)—comprised of amino acids from the (Continued on page 4)
N Y S C C S U P P O R T S E D U C A T I O N N I G H T December 11th • Stage 48, New York, NY
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2018 NYSCC BOARD OF DIRECTORS & PROGRAM CHAIRS CHAIR Cathy Piterski chair@nyscc.org
CHAIR-ELECT Sonia Dawson chair-elect@nyscc.org
TREASURER Michael Smith Treasurer@nyscc.org
TREASURER-ELECT Stephen Carter treasurer-elect@nyscc.org
SECRETARY Roumelia Alina secretary@nyscc.org
ADVISOR Marie Thadal advisor@nyscc.org
HOUSE Suzanne Dawis house@nyscc.org
MEMBERSHIP Mohamed Abdulla mohamed.abdulla@airliquide.com
PROGRAM Steve Herman steveh50@optonline.net
COMMUNICATIONS Theresa Phamduy webmaster@nyscc.org
SPECIAL EVENTS Amy Marshall amy.marshall@altana.com
COSMETISCOPE EDITOR Roger McMullen roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu
COSMETISCOPE ADVERTISING Bret Clark rbclark@ashland.com 2
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Letter from the Chair
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…Cathy Piterski
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t is hard to believe that my year as Chair is coming to an end. It is bittersweet, as the year has been both supremely rewarding and unimaginably challenging. I approached this year with plans in hand and hoped to hit the ground running with all elements in place. I learned before the year even started that as with all plans, things change. We had to quickly modify, adjust, and re-work as needed to keep things moving. That is exactly how the Executive Team handled this year’s programs, committee work, and more. Continuing and expanding upon the work already done, we allowed the long history of this chapter and its rooted mission in education to be our guide. The road, although bumpy at times, was easily travelled as a team! This year’s top of the line educational programming featured two sold-out educational events and a sold-out social event, while others hit projected numbers. New initiatives were started, including the NYSCC Scientific Committee hosting a panel on innovations in formulation at Make-Up New York to a standing room only crowd. 2018 NYSCC Supplier's Day broke previous records with 9,464 participants, almost 500 exhibitors, and unmatched hours of education and programming produced by NYSCC, often in conjunction with leaders who serve the industry, including CEW, C&T, Global Cosmetic Industry, HAPPI, ICMAD, IFSCC, PCPC, PeclersParis, Personal Care Magazine, and SCC. I assure you, while enjoying this success, we are not standing still! Without a doubt, continued growth and far-reaching program development requires cooperation and collaboration. We continue to expand these partnerships with local and global associations, organizations, publications, as well as our sister chapters. New for 2019 will be: • an expanded Awards Program in collaboration with CEW • a fragrance component with NYSCC and the American Society of Perfumers • a safety program spearheaded by IKW (German SCC) These partnerships are sure to strengthen NYSCC Suppliers’ Day and most importantly bring value to the entire membership. In closing, I would like to thank the members for the honor of serving the Chapter at the highest level. A special thanks goes out to the following people whose skills and support, I could not have done without: Marie Thadal, Roumelia Alina, Sonia Dawson, Mike Smith, Stephen Carter, Reese Phamduy, Amy Marshall, Suzanne Dawis, Gino Macaliano, Steve Herman, Roger McMullen, Mohamed Abdulla, Giorgio Dell'Aqua, Andrea Gafford, John Carola, Mohamed Omer, and Jane McDermott. While every volunteer and committee member uniquely contributed to the advancement of our Chapter’s mission, these people I leaned on the most. This association is unique. There is camaraderie amongst the members and a genuine affection for the chapter. While I pass the baton to Sonia Dawson, I leave feeling satisfaction and pride knowing where we are, but also excitement and inspiration for the future of this flagship chapter of the SCC. Thank you for an incredible year! Happy Holidays to all our members. See you in 2019.
Monthly Meeting Group Discount The NYSCC is offering a group discount of 15% to companies who send 5 or more employees to a monthly meeting. All five employees would need to be registered at the same time to receive the discount. Once purchased, registrations are non-refundable.
Make note of it… Send news of interest, guest editorials, and comments to Roger McMullen, Editor • E-mail: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu
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breakdown of filaggrin—is also endogenous in origin. Emollients, humectants, and NMF have all been used successfully as topical treatments to combat dry skin. None of these commonly used skincare ingredients function by upregulating aquaporins. More recently, researchers working in the area of skin biochemistry have discovered that the expression of aquaporin-3 genes/proteins can be modulated with topical application. This is evident in the results obtained from genomic studies like ELISA, DNA microarrays, PCR arrays, and immunofluorescence of cells labeled with aquaporin-3 antibodies. A few ingredients proven to upregulate aquaporin-3 are glyceryl glucoside, isosorbide dicaprylate, retinoids, and caffeine.
Upregulation of Aquaporin-3 by Glycerol Glucoside
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Glycerol glucoside is an important humectant found in green algae living in arid climates. Scientists conducted an in vitro study comparing glycerol glucoside to glycerol (i.e. glycerin) for effects on aquaporin-3 mRNA and protein levels.9-13 Results showed higher levels of mRNA expression with glycerol glucoside versus untreated control and samples treated with glycerol. Samples treated with glycerol glucoside demonstrated a 160% increase in aquaporin-3 protein levels versus the untreated control (but no data for glycerol was provided). In the study, a human keratinocyte monolayer was treated for 24 hours with glycerol glucoside and glycerol, which were compared to an untreated control. Then aquaporin-3 gene expression was quantified using reverse transcription polymerase chain reaction (RT-PCR). Then aquaporin-3 protein levels in glycerol glucoside-treated keratinocytes were quantified using fluorescence-activated cell sorting analysis, and also by incubating keratinocyte monolayers with 3% glycerol glucoside for twenty-four hours, which were then fixed and stained with the aquaporin-3 antibody. As expected the glycerol glucosideinduced aquaporin-3 protein is localized to the plasma membrane of keratinocytes. In the clinical study, thirty-five women (ages 50-80) with xerosis were pre-conditioned for one week by washing their forearms with a mild, moisturizer-free shower gel twice daily. Subjects applied a water repair vehicle and the vehicle + lactate + urea (vehicle plus) to pre-assigned blinded, randomized test areas on their inner forearms. Also, an untreated control site was included in the study. Water levels in stratum corneum and skin barrier integrity were measured by corneometry and TEWL, respectively, at baseline and after one and two weeks. Corneometric results showed skin treated with vehicle + glycerol glucoside + lactate + urea was significantly more hydrated than the same topical formula without the glycerol glucoside. TEWL was statistically less for the same vehicle + glycerol glucoside + lactate + urea versus other formulas. Glycerol glucoside is the centerpiece of skincare products from Beiersdorf, found in their Aquaphor®, Nivea®, and Eucerin® brands.
Modulation of Aquaporin-3 Expression by Isosorbide Dicaprylate Isosorbide dicaprylate is a patented active ingredient from Sytheon Ltd.14 It not only upregulates aquaporin-3 gene/protein expression, but also CD44 (the receptor for hyaluronic acid) and ceramide synthase. The result is an active ingredient with clinically proven statistically significant improvement in skin hydration versus a placebo delivered from an emulsion containing as little as 2% of isosorbide dicaprylate. Isosorbide dicaprylate stimulates production of aquaporin-3 to distribute water, glycerol, and urea. It
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also upregulates tight junctions, desmosomes, and genes/proteins required for normal epidermal differentiation and desquamation.15,16 The critical roles these structures play in building and maintaining epidermal barrier structure and prevention of TEWL is captured in recent studies.17-20 In genomic studies, isosorbide dicaprylate had profound positive effects on these kinds of genes. Results from gene sequencing via DNA microarray studies demonstrated that there was a significant increase versus the control when tested by the PCR array, used to amplify a specific region of a targeted DNA strand, in aquaporin-3. Photomicrographs of cells labeled with the aquaporin-3 antibody light up brightly in immunofluorescence studies after treatment with 50 L/ml of isosorbide dicaprylate. E-cadherin upregulation provides broad-spectrum skin homeostasis. Also it was shown to upregulate CD44, a key receptor for hyaluronic acid, and a host of other genes. In multiple clinical trials, isosorbide dicaprylate has been shown to provide long-term and controlled skin hydration due to its aquaporin-3 stimulatory effect and proven barrier-building properties that reduce TEWL. As a skin hydrator, it is three times more effective than glycerol. Together they form a synergistic combination. Including urea in formulations may lead to another boost in performance. The effect from leave-on products is long lasting. The percent improvement in skin hydration drops off slowly after stopping use of the product, maintaining a high level of skin hydration for up to four days post treatment. It is also ‘smart’ in that it delivers significantly higher levels of hydration for severely dry skin (135% improvement versus untreated) versus normal skin (40% improvement) with visible improvement in appearance and tactile properties even after three days of regression. Unlike glycerol glucoside, isosorbide dicaprylate is a diester that is lipophilic (not a carbohydrate molecule). Therefore, it has no possibility of promoting glycation with the potential to generate anti-glycation end products, which can lead to premature aging of the skin. Avobenzone (a sunscreen) and hexylresorcinol (a skin-lightening agent) can easily be solubilized in isosorbide dicaprylate. It has excellent feel properties on the skin and is preferable to the sensorial properties of glycerin. Isosorbide dicaprylate also improves tanning effectiveness in dihydroxyacetone glow products. Suggested use levels are typically between 2-4% (w/w). Isosorbide dicaprylate has been employed in formulations by many companies and appears in new product introductions all the time. Some examples are: PCA SKIN Intensive Age Refining Treatment, Jafra Royal Jelly Vitamin Infusions – Extra Hydration Serum, and Revision Skincare Retinol Complete.
Additional Molecules that Influence Aquaporin-3 Activity Retinoids and caffeine were identified by researchers at Procter & Gamble as stimulants for aquaporins.21,22 They discovered a nearly ten-fold increase in aquaporin-3 with retinoids. In addition, they observed that caffeine induced a dose-dependent stimulation of aquaporin-3 in cultured keratinocytes and increased glycerol transport activity in vitro. Further, a formulation containing caffeine was clinically proven to deliver a moisturization benefit to dry skin. Retinoids are pretty much ubiquitous in skin care products. A few products that contain caffeine include: Clinique Smart Custom-Repair Moisturizer, Amazonia Complete Eye Revive Treatment & Hydrator, and MAC Studio Moisture Fix. Plant extracts may provide some skin hydration benefit by similar mechanisms. Scientists at LouisVuitton-Moêt-Hennessy Recherché demonstrated that an extract of Ajuga turkestanica increased levels of aquaporin-3 expression.7,23 The discontinued Hydra Life BB Crème products from Dior once contained this ingredient.
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Concluding Remarks In summary, aquaporin-3 transports water, glycerol, and urea throughout the skin providing the balanced hydration needed for healthy skin. Aquaporin-3 is a key factor in maintaining adequate skin hydration. Reduced aquaporin-3 levels can cause xerosis and other unhealthy skin conditions. Reduced aquaporin-3 levels are found in aged, sun-exposed, and psoriatic skin. Expression of aquaporin-3 genes can be modulated with topical application of key ingredients that have been clinically proven to improve skin hydration such as glyceryl glucoside, isosorbide dicaprylate, retinoids, and caffeine. (Continued on page 6)
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Aquaporins
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n References sensiva® – multifunctional additives designed for your innovation
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wt0ObAVZUPY T. Gonen and T. Walz, The structure of aquaporins, Q. Rev. Biophys., 39, 361-396 (2006). B. Brewster, Aquaporins: the one-molecule-at-a-time moisturizer, Cosmet. & Toil., July 12, 2013. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7EGPtMqZ7pY&sns=em A.S. Verkman and K. Miltra, Structure and function of aquaporin water channels, Am. J. Physiol. Renal. Physiol., 278, F13-F28 (2000). J. Li et al., Aquaporin-3 gene and protein expression in sun protected human skin decreases with skin ageing, Australas. J. Dermatol., 51, 106-112 (2010). M. Dumas et al., Hydrating skin by stimulating biosynthesis of aquaporins, J. Drugs Dermatol., 6, S20-S24 (2007). Z. Draelos, Aquaporins – an introduction to a key factor in the mechanism of skin hydration, J. Clin. Aesthet. Dermatol., 5, 53-56 (2012). A. Schrader et.al., Effects of glyceryl glucoside on AQP3 expression, Skin Pharmacol. Physiol., 25, 192-199 (2012). T.M. Weber et al., Treatment of xerosis with a topical formulation containing glyceryl glucoside, natural moisturizing factors, and ceramide, J. Clin. Aesthet. Dermatol., 5, 29-39 (2012). M. Hara-Chikuma and S. Verkman, Roles of aquaporin-3 in the epidermis, J. Invest. Dermatol., 128, 2145-2151 (2008). J. Fowler, Understanding the role of natural moisturizing factor in skin hydration, Practical Dermatol., July, 2012. Z. Draelos, Advancements in topical moisturizing formulations, Dermtube, https://dermtube.com/series/skin-hydration-symposium/advancements-in-topical-moisturizingformulations/. R.K. Chaudhuri, U.S. 8,496,917 B2, Compositions and methods for improving skin appearance, July 30, 2013. R.K. Chaudhuri and K. Bojanowski, Improvement of hydration and epidermal barrier function in human skin by a novel compound isosorbide dicaprylate, Int. J. Cosmet. Sci., 39, 1-9 (2017). HydraSynol™ DOI – The smart skin hydrator, barrier builder and more…, Sytheon company brochure, www.sytheonltd.com. M. Furuse et al., Claudin-based tight junctions are crucial for the mammalian epidermal barrier, J. Cell Biol., 156, 1099-1111 (2002). C.M. Niessen, Tight junctions/adherens junctions: basic structure and function, J. Invest. Dermatol., 127, 2525–2532 (2007). E. Delva et. al., The desmosome, Cold Spring Harb. Perspect. Biol., 1, a002543 (2009). E. Fuchs, Epidermal differentiation and keratin gene expression, J. Cell Sci. Suppl., 17, 197-208 (1993). S. Xie et al., U.S. 2007/0009474 A1, Personal care compositions and methods for the beautification of mammalian skin and hair, January 11, 2007. B. Brewster, Aquaporins: stimulating AQP3, Cosmet. & Toil., July 12, 2013. B. Brewster, Aquaporin-3: regulating skin cell growth, Cosmet. & Toil., July 10, 2013. _____________________________________________
About the Author
J
oe Albanese is currently the Regional Sales Manager Personal Care for Sytheon Ltd.. During his career in the personal care industry, Joseph Albanese worked for Avon, Shulton, and Colgate-Palmolive in both process and product development groups. His employment on the supply side of the industry included more than 12 years at GAF/ISP where he went from formulation chemist to manager of the Hair Care Applications/Tech Service lab. He is a graduate of the F.D.U. Cosmetic Science M.A. program. He has been a member of the SCC since 1984. Joe served as Chair of the NYSCC, Area I Director of the SCC, and currently is Chairing a November 2019 symposium for the NYSCC on sunscreens. 6
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NYSCC Supports Education Night
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he NYSCC is hosting an Educational Charity Event after the National SCC Technical Symposium on Tuesday, December 11, 2018. Come join us for an exciting evening with the benefits going to several Universities and research programs, which furthers the mission of the NYSCC. This event is not to be missed! This CASINO ROYALE themed event will be held at Stage 48. Stage 48 is located in the heart of Hell’s Kitchen. This four-level venue is a converted industrial space that incorporates New York’s old west side feel with modern amenities and state-of-the-art sound and lighting. The venue features a grand ballroom with an extravagant mezzanine, a private lounge level with a performance space, and a beautiful rooftop terrace with a gorgeous view of the Manhattan skyline. This will be the event EVERYONE will be talking about! For any direct inquiries, please contact Giorgino Macalino at awards@nyscc.org.
Call for Papers
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he Cosmetiscope editorial committee invites all interested parties to submit feature technical articles for publication in the NYSCC monthly newsletter. Authors of feature articles are eligible to win the prestigous NYSCC Literature Award ($1,000) for the best front-page article published during the calendar year. Also, authors receive $200 reimbursement to attend a theatrical performance of their choice. Writing an article for your peers is a very rewarding experience, both personally and professionally, and would reserve your place in NYSCC history. You may choose whatever topic you feel would be interesting to fellow colleagues in our industry. We also welcome any other types of commentaries or articles that may be published in the Career Corner, Technical Tidbit section, or as a Letter to the Editor. Please send correspondence to: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu.
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Upcoming 2018 NYSCC Events Calendar • For updated NYSCC information, visit us on the web at: www.nyscc.org • For National SCC information: www.scconline.org December 11 NYSCC Supports Education Night – Stage 48, New York, NY December 11-12 SCC 72nd Annual Scientific Meeting & Technology Showcase – Sheraton New York Times Square, New York, NY
Employment Opportunities For complete ads please go to the NYSCC website: www.nyscc.org.
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