NOVEMBER 2018 • Vol. 24 No. 9
New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists
www.nyscc.org
The Skin Aging Exposome
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…by Roger L. McMullen
xposome refers to the collective exposure of a person throughout a lifetime —from conception onwards— to various environmental elements that influence the overall health state of the individual. Exposure to certain elements is positive while other factors may negatively contribute to the health state of the human being. Exogenous sources could be solar radiation, chemicals, and infectious agents.1 We often think of exposure arising from exogenous sources; however, endogenous factors, such as metabolism can also play an integral role. Inasmuch, the exposome is also influenced by lifestyle factors, such as diet and exercise. The study of the exposome—exposomics— shares many commonalities with other state-of-the-art techniques, such as genomics, proteomics, lipidomics, metabonomics, etc., inasmuch that it utilizes large pools of data to arrive at conclusions regarding the link between exposures and health outcomes. A key to arriving to these conclusions relies on the persistent measurement of biomarkers and obtaining a very accurate history of exposure.2 Typically, the exposome is defined for the entire organism or individual organs in the body. Until recently, there has not been much discussion in the skin research community about the exposome of skin. However, Jean Krutmann and coworkers paved the way by setting the stage for the skin aging exposome.3 Exposure to solar radiation, pollution, and tobacco smoke are well established factors that contribute to skin aging. Decades of research substantiate the role of UV light in photoaging.4 It should be noted, however, that genetic factors, such as melanin levels in the skin, determine the degree of damage suffered as a result of exposure to solar radiation.
In more recent years, researchers discovered that exposure to infrared light also contributes to photoaging.5 In addition, air pollution also contributes to extrinsic skin aging.6 Other mediators, such as nutrition, sleep quality, stress, and temperature are also believed to play a significant role in skin homeostasis. These factors by themselves and in conjunction with each other may all contribute to the skin aging exposome. In a recent review article, the influence of exposome factors on acne are outlined, indicating how nutrition, medication, pollution, psychosocial, and lifestyle factors play an important role in determining the extent of acne development as well as its treatment.7 The use of cosmetic products may also play an integral role in the state of the skin aging exposome. The toxocological and safety profile of cosmetic ingredients should be considered as paramount in the evaluation of their affects on the skin. On the other hand, cosmetic products designed to combat photoaging or other types of extrinsic aging may improve the health state of skin and contribute positively to the exposome. In addition, preventive measures can be taken by individuals to reduce their exposure to factors that negatively impact the skin aging exposome. __________________________________
References 1. D. Balshaw, Exposure Biology and the Exposome, https://www.niehs.nih.gov/research/supported/exposure/bio/. 2. Exposome and Exposomics, The National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH), Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, https://www.cdc.gov/niosh/topics/exposome/. (Continued on page 4)
NYSCC SKIN BARRIER DISRUPTION AND INFLAMMATION SEMINAR November 7th • Valley Regency, Clifton, NJ
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2018 NYSCC BOARD OF DIRECTORS & PROGRAM CHAIRS CHAIR Cathy Piterski chair@nyscc.org
CHAIR-ELECT Sonia Dawson chair-elect@nyscc.org
TREASURER Michael Smith Treasurer@nyscc.org
TREASURER-ELECT Stephen Carter treasurer-elect@nyscc.org
SECRETARY Roumelia Alina secretary@nyscc.org
ADVISOR Marie Thadal advisor@nyscc.org
HOUSE Suzanne Dawis house@nyscc.org
MEMBERSHIP Mohamed Abdulla mohamed.abdulla@airliquide.com
PROGRAM Steve Herman steveh50@optonline.net
COMMUNICATIONS Theresa Phamduy webmaster@nyscc.org
SPECIAL EVENTS Amy Marshall amy.marshall@altana.com
COSMETISCOPE EDITOR Roger McMullen roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu
COSMETISCOPE ADVERTISING Bret Clark rbclark@ashland.com 2
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Letter from the Chair
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…Cathy Piterski
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big thank you goes to everyone for what continues to be a stellar year for the NYSCC! October’s educational program, The Sustainable Cosmetic Science Symposium, attracted over 100 attendees at the Chart House in Weehawken. One of the chapter’s favorite venues did not disappoint, nor did the content spearheaded by Marc Cornell. We were also pleased to host a press event in New York City on October 17th. The night brought together 30+ participants from publications, partners, and industry associations who have worked with us on programming and Suppliers’ Day. The event took place at Ulivo—a unique restaurant in midtown that features olive oil as the essential ingredient in their cuisine! We love anything that promotes ingredients! Coming November 7th is the Skin Barrier Disruption and Inflammation Symposium at the Valley Regency in Clifton, NJ, which is sponsored by Silab, Inc. In December we have a very special event planned to coincide with SCC’s 72nd Annual Scientific Meeting & Technology Showcase: NYSCC Supports Education Night. Ticket sales and sponsorship opportunities are available to both brands and suppliers— visit the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org) for more details. So much is happening with Suppliers’ Day 2019 including: • Fragrance: The Invisible Art, an all-day, in-depth fragrance program, co-produced with the American Society of Perfumers, featuring experts in perfume, scent, essential oils, consumer trends, and more. • The Supplier’s Award: Ingredients and Formulation in partnership with the CEW. The winner will be announced in advance at Suppliers’ Day and then celebrated at the renowned, annual CEW Beauty Awards ceremony later in the month. • Spotlight on the important topic of Safety & Testing in collaboration with DGK (German SCC) and IKW, a leading European Association for German Cosmetic, Toiletry, Perfumery, and Detergent. This event is sponsored by SOFW Journal. We continue to be thankful for these new and established partnerships that allow us to create unique programs that resonate with attendees and position Suppliers’ Day as the leading North American trade show. In closing, I wish you all the best for Thanksgiving and the start of the Holiday Season. I truly am grateful to my fellow board and committee members who volunteer countless hours to further our mission of education and excellence in cosmetic chemistry.
Upcoming 2018 NYSCC Events Calendar • For updated NYSCC information, visit us on the web at: www.nyscc.org • For National SCC information: www.scconline.org November 7 NYSCC Skin Barrier Disruption and Inflammation Seminar – Valley Regency, Clifton, NJ December 11 NYSCC Supports Education Night – Stage 48, New York, NY December 11-12 SCC 72nd Annual Scientific Meeting & Technology Showcase – Sheraton New York Times Square, New York, NY
Monthly Meeting Group Discount The NYSCC is offering a group discount of 15% to companies who send 5 or more employees to a monthly meeting. All five employees would need to be registered at the same time to receive the discount. Once purchased, registrations are non-refundable.
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FACEBOOK: NEW YORK LINKED IN: NEW YORK SCC TWITTER: @NYSCC INSTAGRAM: NYSCCMAIN SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS These connections are possible by the NYSCC Social Media Committee
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(Continued from page 1)
3. J. Krutmann, A. Bouloc, G. Sore, B.A. Bernard, and T. Passeron, The skin aging exposome, J. Dermatol. Sci., 85, 152–161 (2017). 4. I. Sjerobabski Masnec and S. Poduje, Photoaging, Coll. Antropol., 32 Suppl. 2, 177-180 (2008). 5. P. Schroeder, J. Haendeler, and J. Krutmann, The role of near infrared radiation in photoaging of the skin, Exp. Gerontol., 43, 629-632 (2008). 6. A. Vierkötter, T. Schikowski, U. Ranft, D. Sugiri, M. Matsui, U. Krämer, and J. Krutmann, Airborne particle exposure and extrinsic skin aging, J. Invest. Dermatol., 130, 2719–2726 (2010). 7. B. Dréno, V. Bettoli, E. Araviiskaia, M. Sanchez Viera, and A. Bouloc, The influence of exposome on acne, J. Eur. Acad. Dermatol. Venereol., 32, 812-819 (2018). This article originally appeared in TheCosmeticChemist.com. Reproduced with permission by the publisher. Copyright (2017), The Cosmetic Chemist, LLC. _____________________________________________
About the Author:
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r. Roger L. McMullen has over 20 years of experience in the personal care industry with specialties in optics, imaging, and spectroscopy of hair and skin. Currently, he is Principal Scientist in the Measurement Science department at Ashland Specialty Ingredients. Roger received a B.S. in Chemistry from Saint Vincent College and completed his Ph.D. in Biophysical Chemistry at Seton Hall University. Roger actively engages and participates in educational activities in the personal care industry. He is also an Adjunct Professor at Fairleigh Dickinson University and teaches Biochemistry to students pursuing M.S. degrees in Cosmetic Science and Pharmaceutical Chemistry. Prior to pursuing a career in science, Roger served in the U.S. Navy for four years on board the USS YORKTOWN (CG 48), a guided missile cruiser—one of the first ships with the Aegis Combat System.
Employment Opportunities Committed to technology, formulation and superior nation-wide distribution.
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For complete ads please go to the NYSCC website: www.nyscc.org.
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n Technical Services Specialist – Skin/Sun Care BASF Tarrytown, NY
n Regulatory Affairs Analyst The Estée Lauder Companies Melville, NY
n Applications Chemist Miyoshi America, Inc. Valley Cottage, NY
n Coordinator – Global Compliance and Regulatory Affairs Barnet Products Englewood Cliffs, NJ
n Junior Scientist – Color Matcher – Cosmetics Keystone Industries Cherry Hill, NJ
n Senior Chemist Precious Cosmetics Lodi, NJ NATURE’S POWER AND MAN’S WISDOM™ Supplying Standard and Custom Botanical Extracts and Active Ingredients and Complexes since 1998.
n Regulatory – Principal Analyst The Estée Lauder Companies Melville, NY n Senior Product Applications Chemist Colonial Chemical, Inc. South Pittsburg, TN
n Principal Scientist – TSO The Estée Lauder Companies Melville, NY n Manager – TSO The Estée Lauder Companies Melville, NY n Associate Director – TSO The Estée Lauder Companies Melville, NY
www.BotanicalsPlus.com 4
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NYSCC Skin Barrier Disruption and Inflammation Seminar
November 7, 2018 • 4:00 – 8:00 p.m. | Valley Regency, Clifton, NJ Event Chair: Carine Mainzer, Ph.D. • c.mainzer@silabinc.com
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oin us on November 7th for our Skin Barrier Disruption and Inflammation Seminar hosted at the Valley Regency and sponsored by Silab! Learn about cellular communication underlying barrier breakage and topical therapies for atopic dermatitis. Two experts, including keynote speaker Dr. Peter Elias, will address the importance of lipids, lipid signaling, and cell-to-cell communication for providing solid barrier function and participating in cutaneous defenses. We are looking forward to seeing you at this event hosted at the Valley Regency in Clifton, New Jersey. Special gratitude goes to our sponsor Silab.
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4:00 – 4:30 p.m. Registration 4:30 – 5:30 p.m. Upon Barrier Breakage and Bacterial Invasion, How Do Skin Cells Communicate to Immune Effectors? – Carine Mainzer, Ph.D. (Silab, Inc.) 5:30 – 7:00 p.m. Cocktail hour/dinner 7:00 – 8:00 p.m. Topical Therapy for Atopic Dermatitis: Occlusive Moisturizers Versus Physiologic Lipid Barrier Repair Approaches – Peter M. Elias, M.D. (University of California San Francisco)
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Please visit the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org) to register. _____________________________________________
Speaker Abstracts and Biographies: Upon Barrier Breakage and Bacterial Invasion, How Do Skin Cells Communicate to Immune Effectors?
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– Carine Mainzer
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he skin is a dynamic barrier that interacts and senses its environment. Upon barrier breakage, the skin orchestrates a defense response that enables signaling the damage and the danger to surrounding cells including immune cells. One important aspect is the complex communication that takes place between epithelial, mesenchymal, and immune cells through physical contact and molecular mediators. In a collaborative effort with the University of California, San Francisco, we were interested in investigating molecular cell-cell communication, and the power of the microenvironment in stimulating immune responses. Under bacterial aggression with heat killed Staphylococcus aureus, we generated conditioned media from keratinocytes or fibroblasts and studied how each cell type secretions could influence the activation status of key players of the immune system, namely Langerhans cells (LC) and dendritic cells (DC). (Continued on page 6)
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NYSCC Skin Barrier Disruption and Inflammation Seminar
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(Continued from page 5)
We identified that each conditioned media was able to upregulate markers associated with LC and DC phenotypical maturation. Interestingly, the LC-DC response was specific to the cutaneous microenvironment to which they were in contact. Keratinocytes appeared to regulate LC physiology and maintained a low activation profile, whereas fibroblasts triggered the expression of Th1 polarizing cytokines from DC. These results give new insights on the dynamics between cells and how the microenvironment could be targeted to guide or tune cell behavior. n Carine
Mainzer, Ph.D.
Dr. Carine Mainzer joined Silab, Inc. in 2016 as a scientific support manager. Before joining Silab, Inc., Dr. Mainzer was a postdoctoral scholar in the Department of Dermatology at University of California San Francisco under the supervision of Dr. Peter Elias and Dr. Yoshikazu Uchida, where her work focused on the communication between inflammatory cells and cutaneous cells under bacterial challenges. She obtained her Ph.D. from the University of Lyon (France) in 2014 where her thesis work focused on the involvement of the insulin-like growth factor (IGF)-1 on epidermal differentiation and aging. Dr. Mainzer has been working collaboratively in the cosmetic industry for several years now, notably involved with Johnson & Johnson Consumer France, Natura, and Silab, Inc. Her current position offers her the opportunity to continue applying her scientific expertise to research problems facing the cosmetic industry. _____________________________________________
Topical Therapy for Atopic Dermatitis: Occlusive Moisturizers Versus Physiologic Lipid Barrier Repair Approaches – Peter M. Elias
B S p e c i a l t y Es t e r s
PROTAMERS
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ased upon the efficacy of recently developed biologics, the pathogenesis of atopic dermatitis (AD) is being attributed once again to the prominent inflammation that occurs in this disorder. Yet, molecular genetics have clearly shown that the etiology of AD can be attributed to mutations in stratum corneum structural proteins that impact epidermal barrier function, while inflammation instead emerges as a downstream consequence of a sustained, barrier-driven cytokine cascade. Though several different mutations that compromise barrier function are associated with AD, all of these mutations compromise either the contents or secretion of epidermal lamellar bodies. Therapies directed at specific immune participants, though effective temporarily, inevitably are followed by rebound flares, similar to that which occurs following glucocorticoid therapy. While occlusive moisturizers dampen inflammation, they do not address the underlying lipid biochemical abnormality in AD, which can be corrected more specifically with topical, physiologic lipid-based forms of barrier repair therapy (BRT). Accordingly, BRT has been shown to be as effective as topical, mid-potency steroids for the treatment of moderate-to-severe pediatric AD. n Peter
M. Elias, M.D.
Dr. Elias, Staff Physician, San Francisco VA Medical Center and Professor Emeritus, University of California San Francisco, is in part responsible for the present wealth of knowledge on the structure and myriad of functions of mammalian stratum corneum. His pioneering research, which began in the 1970s, has dispelled the myth of the stratum corneum as a “dead, keratinized, basket-weave" structure to establish the iconic "brick and mortar" model. The stratum corneum is now viewed as a metabolically active, two-compartment composite that functions as a biosensor. The resultant "outside-in" concept of the barrier as a prime mover in the pathogenesis of cutaneous disease has also been a highlight of his work, with the paramount role of skin barrier dysfunction in disease pathogenesis now widely recognized. Over the past 40 years, his lab has been the destination for over 100 young investigators from around the world, a trend that continues to enrich the field of academic dermatology with an armamentarium of techniques and disciplines on epidermal structure and function. Dr. Elias mentors his vast network of associates and postdoctoral fellows, past and present, several of whom have achieved leadership roles in academia and industry the world over. His oeuvre comprises over 650 scientific publications, including several books that he has either edited or coedited. N O V E M B E R
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NYSCC Supports Education Night
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elp us show appreciation to our NYSCC members by joining us as an event sponsor. 100% of all proceeds will be awarded to educational donations! For more information on sponsorship levels contact: c.s.ladouceur@gmail.com. Sponsorships are limited, so register ASAP to ensure your place as a sponsor! The NYSCC is hosting an Educational Charity Event after the National SCC Technical Symposium on Tuesday, December 11, 2018. Come join us for an exciting evening with the benefits going to several Universities and research programs, which furthers the mission of the NYSCC. This event is not to be missed! This CASINO ROYALE themed event will be held at Stage 48. Stage 48 is located in the heart of Hell’s Kitchen. This four-level venue is a converted industrial space that incorporates New York’s old west side feel with modern amenities and state-of-the-art sound and lighting. The venue features a grand ballroom with an extravagant mezzanine, a private lounge level with a performance space, and a beautiful rooftop terrace with a gorgeous view of the Manhattan skyline. This will be the event EVERYONE will be talking about! For any direct inquiries, please contact Giorgino Macalino at awards@nyscc.org.
Call for Papers
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he Cosmetiscope editorial committee invites all interested parties to submit feature technical articles for publication in the NYSCC monthly newsletter. Authors of feature articles are eligible to win the prestigous NYSCC Literature Award ($1,000) for the best front-page article published during the calendar year. Also, authors receive $200 reimbursement to attend a theatrical performance of their choice. Writing an article for your peers is a very rewarding experience, both personally and professionally, and would reserve your place in NYSCC history. You may choose whatever topic you feel would be interesting to fellow colleagues in our industry. We also welcome any other types of commentaries or articles that may be published in the Career Corner, Technical Tidbit section, or as a Letter to the Editor. Please send correspondence to: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu.
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Make note of it… Send news of interest, guest editorials, and comments to Roger McMullen, Editor • E-mail: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu 8
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