The Science Behind Beauty Wednesday, August 14, 2013 • The Imperia, Somerset, NJ
F
or the first time, the NYSCC is introducing Cosmetology: The Science Behind Beauty to all members and non-members of the NYSCC. Cosmetology is about beautifying the human body, ranging anywhere from nails, hair, make-up, skin, and so much more! A panel of presenters have joined and collaborated to share their insights and expertise on scientific activities that brings beauty into our lives and to our world. What are the top trends in today’s spa business? What does it mean to have a facial service? How are products formulated and packaged to appeal to the luxurious spa markets? This day is packed with interesting discussions and fun facts in today’s Spa and Salon World that may be advantageous to our day-to-day lives. (Continued on page 2) ...Chair Anna Weinstein
Agenda 8:00 a.m. – 8:45 a.m.
Registration and Breakfast
8:45 a.m. – 9:30 a.m.
Why We Spa! Cherie Buziak, BeautyEdge, LLC
9:30 a.m. – 10:45 a.m.
Formulating Spa Products — It Takes More Than Rose Petals Zsuzsanna Piso, Piso Consulting
10:45 a.m. – 11:15 a.m.
BREAK
11:15 a.m. – 12:15 p.m.
Sustainable Cosmetic Ingredients and Scientific Edge Giorgio Dell’Acqua, Freedom Actives Corp.
12:15 p.m. – 1:30 p.m.
LUNCH
1:30 p.m. – 2:30 p.m.
Product Orchestration Brian Fox, David Dustin, and Eve Pearl; Genealogy Beauty, LLC and EVE PEARL
2:30 p.m. – 3:30 p.m.
Targeted Formulations Ni’Kita Wilson and Al-Nisa Ward, Catalyst Cosmetic Development, LLC
Pricing • Members pre-registered – $35 • Non-members at the door – $110
• Members at the door – $75 • Students – $10 ($50 at the door)
• Non-Members pre-registered – $70 • Emeritus members – Free ($40 at the door)
($40 fee across the board for at the door registration.) For questions, please contact: John Carola at JohnC@protameen.com or (973) 879-7019. For registration and other information, visit www.nyscc.org.
C C
2013 NYSCC BOARD OF DIRECTORS & PROGRAM CHAIRS CHAIR
Steve Herman (973) 479-5702 steveh50@optonline.net
CHAIR-ELECT
Steve Neidenberg (815) 337-2500 sneidenberg@ritacorp.com
TREASURER
Sonia Dawson sonia.dawson@croda.com
SECRETARY
Kim Burch (215) 320-1573 Kim.Burch@elementis.com
ADVISOR
Brian Hom (973) 345-8600 x3430
HOUSE
Jenna Jelinski (201) 396-8431 jjelinski@morretec.com
MEMBERSHIP
Amy Marshall (908) 806-4664 amy.marshall@altana.com
PROGRAM
Cathy Piterski (678) 730-1643 cpiterski@essentialingredients.com
SPECIAL EVENTS
Phil Klepak (973) 265-2869 pklepak@summitresearchlabs.com
SUPPLIERS’ DAY
Danielle Kennedy dkennedy2014nyscc@gmail.com
COSMETISCOPE EDITOR Roger McMullen roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu
O O
S S
M M
E E
T T
O O
L L
O O
Cosmetology: The Science Behind Beauty
G G
Y Y
(Continued from page 1)
Why We Spa! Cherie Buziak, BeautyEdge, LLC
T
he Spa Industry continues to expand in service categories ranging from Day Spa to Medical Spa to Destination Spa to Family Spa—the list goes on. How does the beauty industry tap into this growing market, and what specific information is needed to understand the Spa consumer in order to deliver acceptable, experiential products? This presentation focuses on the one specific area of why we Spa. “Why?” is not necessarily a new question; however, studies indicate that there is evidence to support why consumers seek out the benefits of specific treatment modalities. The presentation also explores today’s lifestyle, key Spa trends, as well as thoughts from leaders in the Spa industry as to what the future may hold. We’ll take a peek at what goes on behind the scenes at Spa conferences and then finish with possible concept starters to consider for product development in the Spa Industry.
About the Speaker…Cherie Buziak Cherie Buziak, cosmetic marketing product developer, licensed aesthetician, and publisher has over two decades of beauty industry experience. In 2006, she launched BeautyEdge LLC, an innovative product development consulting company that is on the pulse of identifying the latest scientific introductions and is privy to cutting edge ingredients, delivery systems, and new technology trends (www.beautyedgeinc.com). BeautyEdge assignments include innovative development and brand positioning for companies like Coty, Bath & Body Works, Noxzema, and Rx for Brown Skin to name a few. In 2007, Cherie launched OnTheEdge, an electronic beauty publication that reviews niche industry conferences, evolving technologies, service treatments, and beauty product introductions. Cherie’s beauty industry history includes product innovation positions at Avon’s Global Skincare and beComing divisions, where she was instrumental in developing a number of first to market products; Executive Vice President for the medi-spa division of New York dermatologist, Dr. Neil Sadick; and Director of Training for Guinot skincare. She is an active member of CEW and the NYSCC, has authored numerous articles, and has been quoted in various trade journals.
Directions to The Imperia, Somerset, New Jersey • RT. 287 (North or South): Exit 10 Rt. 527 South Easton Avenue. Imperia will be 1/4 mile on your right. • New Jersey Turnpike (North or South): Exit 10 to Rt. 287 North. Exit 10 Rt. 527 South Easton Avenue. Imperia will be 1/4 mile on your right. • Garden State Parkway (South): Exit 129 for 287 North. Exit 10 Rt. 527 South Easton Avenue. Imperia will be 1/4 mile on your right. • Garden State Parkway (North): Exit 127 for 287 North. Exit 10 Rt. 527 South Easton Avenue. Imperia will be 1/4 mile on your right. • RT. 22 or RT. 78 (East or West): To Rt. 287 South. Exit 10 Rt. 527 South Easton Avenue. Imperia will be 1/4 mile on your right.
COSMETISCOPE ADVERTISING Bret Clark rbclark@ashland.com
COSMETISCOPE EMPLOYMENT Guojin Lu glu@ashland.com
The Imperia • 1714 Easton Avenue, Somerset, New Jersey 08873 • (732) 469-2522 2 2
W W
W W
W W
. .
N N
Y Y
S S
C C
C C
. .
O O
R R
G G
Formulating Spa Products – It Takes More Than Rose Petals Zsuzsanna Piso, Piso Consulting
A
lthough “spa” has become one of the most overused and abused terms on retail cosmetic shelves, only a small fraction of American women have ever had a facial and few cosmetic chemists have ever formulated for spa use. After a short historical perspective, the guiding principles of spa treatment products will be reviewed and the unique formulation requirements of each product form will be discussed. We will talk about cleansers, toners, peels, serums, massage products, mask types and benefits, creams and lotions, and common equipment. The issue of formulating for multiple customers and the role of aesthetician will be explored.
About the Speaker…Zsuzsanna Piso Zsuzsanna Piso is the principal of Piso Consulting, providing services for all phases of the product development cycle, from ideas through concept development, formulation, and creative problem solving to market readiness. Zsuzsanna Piso received her undergraduate education in Budapest, Hungary, at Eötvös Lóránd University, majoring in Chemistry, and Master’s of Science degree from Saint John’s University – School of Pharmacy, New York, specializing in Cosmetic Science and Technology. Having been on the technical management side of product development for some of the biggest personal care brands while at Lever Brothers (Unilever), Shulton, and Colgate-Palmolive, she had the opportunity to handle technology transfer and be part of International Business Development of new Central European markets. After a stint at Oral-B as the Director of Professional Products and Professional Relations globally, she spent 10 years developing award winning prestige spa treatments and upscale retail products. She has lectured master classes of spa professionals for a decade, striving to build communication and technical understanding. With her international background and broad experience she brings unique insight to the Society. A lifelong member of the Society, she is an enthusiastic organic gardener and creator of fantastic cakes. ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Sustainable Cosmetic Ingredients and Scientific Edge Giorgio Dell’Acqua, Freedom Actives Corp.
T
he presence of technological and natural products has increased in the personal care market parallel to a consumer demand for efficacy and purity. This trend has driven the spa offer toward either a dermatological approach to treatment or to a holistic and natural one. Although technological and natural products and treatment have been growing separately until now, it is possible today to develop the purest and most ethical natural ingredient into a product with scientific edge and proven efficacy. Having more technology and science available for both developing the natural ingredient and for testing it, it is possible to build up technology and deliver efficacy from natural ingredients, increasing their safety, and maintaining their positive image of purity, eco-friendliness, and sustainability. The spa offer is indeed embracing nature and science, providing scientific and natural ingredients with proven efficacy, but more recently is also engaging in improving and marketing the quality of its supply chain. Examples of typical spa ingredients such as exotic oils, marine derived algae, and rare plant extracts will be discussed. Ultimately, the origin of the natural ingredient as well as its environmental and social impact has to be verified and communicated, while validating its scientific credential to bring the best possible natural, ethical, safe product with proven efficacy and safety during treatment.
About the Speaker…Giorgio Dell’Acqua, Ph.D. Giorgio is a scientist with 15 years of experience in applied biomedical research and 12 years in cosmetic science. He is the co-founder of Freedom Actives Corp., a company specializing in the development and supply of natural and sustainable ingredients for the cosmetics, food, and nutraceutics markets. He is also a consultant specializing in skin care ingredient and finished products development. Giorgio has helped bring more than 100 successful skin care active ingredients and finished products to market and has authored more than 40 publications in medicine and cosmetic science.
3 3
C C
O O
S S
M M
E E
T T
O O
L L
O O
G G
Y Y
Product Orchestration Brian Fox, David Dustin, and Eve Pearl; Genealogy Beauty, LLC and EVE PEARL
E
xamine & Discuss: • Do consumers trust the word “innovation”? • What are retro futuristic formulations? • How to orchestrate the perfect product? • Why must product packaging and mystique work together? • How to validate the perfect global formula? • What is the hooked up generation looking for in their beauty products? Product Orchestration is a hearty dose of marketing, product and packaging development, and formulation reality for today’s consumer subcultures. A panel of industry veterans will share their hard learned lessons in successful beauty branding. Stressing the importance of the harmony between all elements involved in creating the future’s uber products for a very skeptical and financially pinched global culture is the key mission behind Product Orchestration. Join the discussion and let’s build a beautiful future together!
About the Speakers…Brian Fox Brian Fox Krawczyk is the creative visionary and founder of Genealogy Beauty, LLC. With over 25 years of beauty/fashion industry experience, Brian has worked within all trade classes and distribution channels in product development, marketing, and sales. In his former position as Vice-president of Global Business Development for Mana Products, Inc., his tenure included senior management of contract manufacturing, turn-key, and private label company division; including R&D product development, trending, marketing, and sales. Brian is well recognized as an industry trendsetter, having created nextgeneration products, for many of the most celebrated brands in beauty. His creative style is to reject the ‘status quo’ in favor of a one-of-a-kind innovation. Having spent time in almost every major manufacturing facility around the globe, Brian understands the challenges that brands face when bringing a product to market. Underlying his passion for creative product development is the desire to give brands a more efficient streamline and profitable process for developing their business. Brian comes to the table with a broad background in technical direction, marketing management, sales management, extensive R&D research, and trending and forecasting for the world’s leading beauty manufacturers, including L’Oréal, Procter and Gamble, etc.
…David Dustin A packaging professional and innovator in product design and development, David Dustin has 20+ years experience in brand building for areas of beauty, pharma, and consumer products. He holds an MBA in International Business and an M.S. in Engineering combined with design and multilingual skills. David is recognized as an industry leader known for creating, implementing, and achieving strategies for global compliance, functionality, and success. Driven by a strong sense of urgency with a passion for design and engineering, David gained worldwide markets by delivering the highest quality, cost effective, and innovative products faster than the competition. A focus on operational and supply-chain excellence, aligned with strategic vision and an understanding of local cultures, leveraged David’s global manufacturing structure. He comes with a broad range background including several product patents and innovative new ways to improve on traditional products and their functionality. The world’s leading manufacturers had the benefit of his knowledge, including Procter and Gamble, Avon, Whirlpool, Emerson, Toyota, Becton Dickinson, etc. As Chief Operating Officer for EVE PEARL/Great Faces, Inc. David commands a unique blend of (Continued on page 5)
4 4
W W
W W
W W
. .
N N
Y Y
S S
C C
C C
. .
O O
R R
G G
executive acumen and a “hands-on” approach to global team building and Lean-Sigma effectiveness credited for his successful career.
…Eve Pearl Eve Pearl is a five-time Emmy Award winning celebrity Makeup Expert with 20 years of experience in television, film, theatre, and print. Eve is a frequent on-air guest and beauty expert on international and local television shows where she produces highly rated segments featuring makeovers, beauty trends, products, and lifestyle topics. Her appearances include the Today show, The View, Live with Kelly & Michael, Extra, and more. Throughout her career as a makeup artist, author, and lecturer at hundreds of speaking engagements on beauty and wellness, Eve learned a lot about the emotional connection women (and men) have with their beauty products. She found that women constantly demand more from their makeup, seeking new solutions to look and feel better. An innovator in Beauty and an entrepreneur, Eve developed a luxury brand of multi-functional cosmetics called EVE PEARL®, Makeup with Skincare for Every Complexion. Eve began building her brand while working as the makeup supervisor on ABC’s The View. A few years later, while working on NBC’s Today show, she opened a retail store in the heart of New York City. The luxury space is going into its sixth year and has become the backdrop for numerous television shows and newscasts. Appearing on Home Shopping Networks as a featured presenter, EVE PEARL’s international exposure and sales continue to grow globally with a loyal following. The key elements that led to the EVE PEARL brand’s global appeal are Product Integrity and Passion. The “Eve Pearl Method” for makeup application, gives women (and men) the structure and confidence in using makeup that helps us look good, feel good, and is good for us. The award-winning Salmon Concealer® has revolutionized the way we cover dark under eye circles. Eve’s videos and tutorials featured on EvePearl.com, YouTube, and other social media outlets helped catapult this brand into over 85 countries and growing worldwide. __________________________________________________________________________________________
Targeted Formulations Ni’Kita Wilson and Al-Nisa Ward, Catalyst Cosmetic Development, LLC
F
ormulating for the Spa market requires a different train of thought than formulating for the general market. The “reach as many as possible” approach does not work when dealing with a segment that customizes treatments based on varying conditions such as that found in the Spa market. Products geared for dry skin cannot be formulated the same as products for dehydrated skin—there is a difference. In this session, we will focus on targeted formulations—conditions specific product development strategies geared toward skin concerns commonly treated in spas.
About the Speakers…Ni'Kita Wilson Creativity and enthusiasm are the words that best match the approach to product development and the overall personal demeanor of Cosmetic Chemist and Skinects.com founder, Ni’Kita Wilson. After graduating from Montclair State University with a degree in Chemistry, Ni’Kita tried her hand at being a Forensic Chemist, but the mundane and routine duties were just not for her! What followed was an astronomical rise through the ranks at Cosmetech Laboratories from novice chemist to Vice-president and Partner, in which Ni’Kita’s creativity was allowed to flourish. With so many opportunities available, she left Cosmetech to pursue other interests that further expanded her knowledge in the area of contract manufacturing (Continued on page 6) and influence in the beauty industry with consumers through magazines and blogs.
5 5
C C
O O
S S
M M
E E
T T
O O
L L
O O
G G
Y Y
Ni’Kita is known as an industry leader by her colleagues and consumers. She is the “go-to” source for beauty editors and writers researching trends, ingredients, and beauty formulations. You can find her quoted in publications such as InStyle, Allure, Redbook, Women’s Health, and Prevention magazines. Ni’Kita was recognized by Essence magazine with an “Innovative Cosmetic Chemist” Best in Black Beauty Award in the May 2013 awards issue. Allure hails Ni’Kita as one of their favorite cosmetic chemists; she was given full-page features in O and Allure magazines. For the past few years Ni’Kita has had the privilege to be a judge for Prevention magazine Beauty Awards, Allure Best in Beauty (New Breakthroughs), and InStyle magazine’s big April Beauty feature. She is an expert and monthly columnist for youbeauty.com (a Dr. Oz website) and dailyglow.com where she writes product reviews. Currently, Ni’Kita is CEO, Director of Innovation at Catalyst Cosmetic Development, LLC.
…Al-Nisa Ward Al-Nisa is President and Chief Creative Officer at Catalyst Cosmetic Development, LLC. She has over fifteen years of experience in the personal care industry. She began her career at Bristol-Meyers, Squibb in Hillside, New Jersey working on their Ban Antiperspirant and Keri Silky Smooth lines. She continued at Lipo Chemicals, Inc. in Paterson, New Jersey, working in their applications lab. It was there that Al-Nisa came in contact with Barlo Laboratories, a consulting company renting lab space in Lipo Chemicals. She was very interested in the variety of products being developed at Barlo, and began working for them part-time. After a short period, Al-Nisa became part of the Barlo team and that is when her creativity blossomed and her love of formulating began. During her tenure at Barlo, Al-Nisa worked on products for Estée Lauder, M.A.C., Bath & BodyWorks, Meaningful Beauty, Jurlique, and H2O Plus, among others When Barlo Labs closed, she founded her own consulting company, Cosmetic Science Innovations, LLC. At CSI, Al-Nisa drew on her years of formulating experience to create innovative prestige, mass market, and natural products for clients, notably Jurlique Body Cream, 37 Extreme Actives High Performance Anti-Aging Cream and Cleansing Treatment, and Sjal Skincare Anti-Aging Saphir Concentrate Face Oil. Four years later, Al-Nisa has embarked on her most exciting venture to date by teaming up with Ni’Kita Wilson to form Catalyst Cosmetic Development, LLC, a dynamic consulting company that is revolutionizing product development by providing concepts, new technologies, trend presentations, creativity, and product innovation. Al-Nisa received her Associates with High Honors from Essex County College and is a member of Cosmetic Executive Women.
5th Annual Culinary Event September 19, 2012 • 6:00–9:00 PM Location: My Cooking Party, Midtown Loft A hands-on experience featuring a mixture of Mediterrean cuisines! For more information please contact: Andrea Guerrero (aguerrero@gattefossecorp.com), Amy Marshall (amy.marshall@altana.com), or Juanita Majette (jmajette@rd.us.loreal.com) Space limited to the first 125 people registered with payment received. For registration and other information, visit www.nyscc.org.
6 6