W27
OFFICIAL FIT NEWSPAPER
The body issue
MISS FIT: QUEENS BEHIND THE SCENE
OUTSIDE YOUR borough: best thrift stores
NY BODIES EXHIBIT: WHAT YOU SHOULD KNOW BEFORE YOU GO
SUstainability update: the full story behind fit denim
FUSION FASHION SHOW DESIGNERS IN A THREE PAGE SPREAD
VO L 42 I SSUE 79 M AR 2010
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Heather Alina Viggiani Editor-in-Chief
Patrick greene
dent. But I worry that the industry pressure to be as thin as the models we so admire can have a negative effect on our body image--both male and female. Keep in mind that these professionals are just that--doing their job requires looking thin enough so as not to distract from the clothing as well as to withstand those extra pounds a camera adds. While we are working towards a healthier body image in the fashion industry as whole, please take a moment to be honest with how your perception of your body matches reality.
Deputy Editor
Dorelle McPherson Secretary
Veronica Heras Treasurer
Kara Lewis Jessica Samakow Kevia Wright
Senior Section Editors
w27Newspaper.com
As for what is your best style weapon, you might want to take cue from the confident Ms. FIT contestants on page 4 who surely have no problems with body insecurity. If that’s a little out of your range as far as style goes, the collections that the design students that participated in the Fusion fashion show in March are highlighted beginning on page 10.
Dorelle McPherson
Executive Website Manager
Terrence Phearse
Senior Online Editorial Director
Lauren Rothbart
Advertising Manager
Rachel gulmi
Advertising Assitant
Alyssa Carfin Laura Fishman Ad Sales Force
Art Zhang Qingyun Art Director
Cristina Vaccacio
graphic and Print Production Consultant
Charles george
Illustrations Director
Illustrators William Chung (Cover Image) Christian Castro William Chung Kimberly graziano Esqueleto Rojo Siva Jack Sernvongsat Jacqueline Zhu
Contributing Writers Sarah Basset Edward Bowleg III Alexander Cavaluzzo Cameron Chambers Sarah Dill Tabitha Jvonne Veronica Heras Patrick greene Roxy Kirshenbaum Phoebe Licata Kara Lewis Camilla Mayer Dorelle McPherson Terrence Phearse Danielle Pacelli Jessica Samakow Misty Sidell Nicole Tan Claycia Tweed Taisa Veras Charlotte Wendel Ava Wiland Kevia Wright Yecca Zeng
“’Couture!’...I think I will stick with editing.” Photo by Qingyun Zhang, Dress by Desmond Lim Zhengs
What’s up fellow FITers? In preparation for warmer weather, and subsequently less clothing, we’ve decided to make April 2010 our body issue. Not just your typical nutrition guidelines (although we do blow salad’s cover on page 13) or your “don’t smoke, it’s bad for you” warnings (of course there’s the debate on whether the FIT smokers should be quarantined to their own outdoor space on page 13). We also put some more thought on how to be stress-free for free (pg. 14), all about the “curvy is back” movement (pg. 7) and the tragedies of what happens when the body is used as commodity (pg 17). It comes with great concern that I say the following: being skinny isn’t your best style weapon. Sure, I love Kate Moss, the poster child for Heroine chic just as much as the next FIT stu-
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g n i m
As the semester and academic year nears its end, myself and the staff will be attending various events that will shine light on the talented students that we have here--and the ones that will no longer be here after May 25. The one that I am the most excited about is the Fashion Design BFA Graduates’ collections showing on April 29th. While I will have the full report in May, you might want to check out the blog feature on the FIT website for the event. I’ve become sort of obsessed with the entries of four of the participating students found at http://blog.fitnyc.edu/ futureoffashion/. Who knew that fighting for yarn or learning about buttons was so fascinating? Until then, good luck on your exams and try not to let stress get the best of you. To health and happiness,
P.S. A huge thanks to FITSA for our brand new computers and office renovation. Laying out this issue was (almost) a dream!
n o o S
W27Newspaper.com Get all the same great FIT coverage that you find here in print...online! The W27 staff has been hard at work getting just-the-right website together for your communicating pleasure. Be sure to look out for the official launch.
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Advertising Faculty Advisor Want to be a published writer? Write for your school! Contact us at: w27newspaper@gmail.com W27 is the student newspaper of the State University of New York: Fashion Institute of Technology, published under the auspices of the FIT Student Association. We invite letters to the editors, which must be signed and typed. Names will gladly be withheld upon request. Letters to W27 or its editors are assumed to be intended for publication in whole or in part, and therefore may be used for such purposes. Opinions expressed in letters do not necessarily reflect those of the FIT Editorial Board.
CORRECTIONS The food review of “Hot Nosh 24/6” in the March 2010 issue mistakenly noted that the vending machine was managed by Arakmark Services. In actuality, the college partners with a company called CC Vending, Inc. for all snack and beverage vending services located throughout the campus buildings. An article titled “Blood Smeared Machetes, Stifed Cries: The Story of Rwanda” published in the March 2010 issue misspelled the surname of a Rwandan genocide survivor. She is Marie-Claudine Mukamabano, not Marie-Claudine Mukamabone. Also, a photo credit for the same story was accidentally forgotten. Attribution should be given to photographer Rav Carlotti.
1ST PAGE FEATURE
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ALWAYS HERE
Club Love by Kevia Wright pg 6
FITting in the Industry by Terrence Phearse pg 8 Jerome Lamaar
Industry Profile by Taisa Veras pg 9 Kathleen Kirkwood
Photo Shoot by Edward Bowleg III and Sarah Basset pg 10 Fusion Fashion Show
Book Review by Claycia Tweed pg 15 Michael Pollan’s Food Rules
Exhibit Review by Camilla Mayer pg 15 Bodies New York
Movie Review by Ava Wiland pg 16 The Sun Behind the Clouds
Music Boner by Cameron Chambers pg 16
Outside Your Borough by Staff pg 18 Thrift Stores
Month in Review by Alexander Cavaluzzo pg 20
FIT Speaks (Opinion) by Jenna Amatulli pg 20
Advice Column by Jessica Samakow pg 21
WTF pg 21
Comic by Siva Jack Sernvongsat pg 22
Staff Feature pg 22
Style on 27 by Roxy Kirshenbaum pg 23
D Building by Esqueleto Rojo pg 23
hOT THIS MONTH
Following Ms. FIT pg 4
Sustainability Update by Dorelle McPherson pg 5
Pet Fashion Show by Sarah Dill pg 5
Applying to College with a Video by Danielle Pacelli pg 6
Skinny is Out, Curves are In by Veronica Heras pg 7
Commercialism in the Capital of Avant-Garde by Misty Sidell pg 7
“Grass-Fed” is the New Organic by Kara Lewis pg 15
The FIT Student vs. The Chinese Student by Charlotte Wendel pg 17
Raising Awareness for Human Trafficking by Kara Lewis pg 17
welcome to the body issue Think salads are the best thing for you? Patrick Greene will have you thinking again!
Nicole Tan investigates the dilemma of whether smokers on campus should be confined or not.
W27 Staffers try out the four different ways to get a ray-less tan!
Yecca Zeng spills the beans on her guilty pleasure-free massages on campus! Discover why you might see sweaty students running by your classroom in the evening from Kevia Wright.
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FOLLOWING MS. FIT Ms. FIT--the most talked about, well-attended event of the year. Of course, W27 had to cover the event, but it didn’t seem enough to attend the event and write a review for the May issue (Ms. FIT is happens the same day this issue drops on campus). That’s why we contacted two of the fabulous contestants and required them to keep a three week diary leading up to the event. The details get juicy--sometimes to a “too much information” level, if you know what we mean. Be sure to get the behind-the-queens stories below, even if you are reading this after you attended the event.
Marciano Ramirez as Vanessa Latrell in his/her own photos.
Vanessa Latrell (Née Marciano Ramirez) Week 1 I was looking over the songs I had picked for Ms. FIT and I wanted to make sure that I could keep the crowd enthralled and excited throughout my performance. Of course Im not going to give away my songs: I like to keep a little bit of mystery. I’m really happy with the songs I have chosen and the mixes that I made with them. I did all my music by myself mostly with a little help from my friends. I hope you enjoy my performance and love every bit of glamour that is Week 2 Dressing for a show is a tricky thing. How much skin is appropriate? Do I really want to tuck? Both of these are very valid questions and I took them into consideration when picking my outfits. I knew the perfect LBD for the opening number: classy, skin tight, and just a little on the wild side. It fits perfectly and I feel like a princess. For my performance, I took into consideration my music and then decided it was her that I wanted to portray. I love the opening segment of my routine and I wanted to go with that theme throughout the show. I love my outfits very much and I think they truly show who Vanessa Latrell really is. My makeup is wild and makes me stand out as a truly glamorous performer. I’m very picky about my eyeshadow and contouring, I love to make a statement and my eyes always have to stand out. I love the colors I’ve chosen to represent my character and I’m sure the audience will be very pleased with the outcome. Week 3: For the past week I’ve been running around manic like a anorexic Upper East Side waspy school girl at a Barney’s end-of-season sale. I’ve been gathering the last of my costume pieces, and I finally had practice with my backup dancers. The choreography that they came up fits the songs really well and I couldn’t be happier with the outcome of it. I’m starting to feel the
Matt Nesbitt as Amber Alert in his/her own photos.
fire of competition burn deep down inside my bejeweled heart and I can hear the faint roar of the crowd getting louder and louder as Thursday rolls near. I’m more than excited to perform in front of almost a thousand people and know that this will be an experience to remember forever. I hope you enjoy the show and love every minute of it.
fabulous one-of-a-kind outfits that made my body look like a volcano of lust and desire. Towels will be provided for men in the audience who can’t control themselves.
XOXO your tranny lover,
The show is almost here! I was finally putting the final touches on my outfits and glueing the rhinestones onto my denim thong. Between the many dance practices, beer runs, and gossiping sessions about all the other whores in the pageant with Joyce Brown, I was exhausted. The only thing that kept me from not dropping out of school and working for Aramark was my desire to compete and remain at FIT to become a couture buyer for Duane Reade. After putting all my worries behind me, I put my head back in the game and finally purchased my wig from Elaine Stone’s Ethnic Hair Emporium and was picture perfect for my debut. I only hope that the world is ready for Amber Alert!
Vanessa Latrell Amber Alert (née Matt Nesbitt) Week 1 Dear Diary, When I decided to grace the Ms. FIT pageant with my presence, the most important decision (besides how big I wanted my hooters to be) was what song I was going to perform. After countless hours and beers later, it dawned upon me that the perfect song to express the glamour and elegance of Amber Alert would be “Fu*ked by a Knife” by Cannibal Corpse. The classic rhythm and use of tempo would allow me to show off my sweet dance skills while still being a classy lady. The next step was to find my dancers! I knew I wanted the most erotic and hood-ratiest girls at FIT so I searched the school far and wide until I found Taylor and Brittney. They were working at the A Building floor bathroom glory hole, and it was love at first sight.
Week 3 Dear Diary,
Week 2 Dear Diary, What was I going to wear for the performance of my life?! I found my perfect outfit at BuRgduRf Goodm@n but some incidences happened that I won’t get into and I don’t have that outfit anymore. Let’s just say that they have a strict shoplifting policy and a night in central booking leaves a boy sore. After sending a tweet to my BFF @BunsOfSteele, I was able to go through the FIT museum closet and pick out some
“Top three, clockwise from top left: Trixie Delight*, Felicha Schartz*, Miss Oklahomo. Bottom seven from left to right, top row: SheiA Stuggles*, Amber Alert, Kiki De La Cruz, Miss Mariah; bottom row: Bambii La’Rae, Lady Gaygay and Vanessa Latrell. Photos by Amelia Beamish accept where noted by an *, in which case the photos belong to contestant.”
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Take a walk through ‘Bryant Bark’ Sarah Dill provided the musical inspiration to AMC seniors to create a pet-friendly environment where FIT let the dogs out again. The show was created by members of a Special Events class and it paid homage to the former home for Fashion Week, Bryant Park, calling it instead by its canine equivalent, “Bryant Bark.” The cast-- pampered pooches, were lent by FIT faculty and, new this year, shelter animals were being provided for adoption by the North Shore Animal League of America. A Mobile Adoption Van alighted on West 27th to offer the public a chance to add a new family member.
Illustrated by Jacqueline Zhu
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n the evening of April 12th in FIT’s John E. Reeves Great Hall, tails were wagging and new designs were making a paw imprint on the runway in the 2nd Annual Pet Apparel fashion show. “Who Let the Dogs Out?” by the Baha Men
The backdrop prop for the show was a tent, making attendees feel like they were actually inside where all the fashion magic happens. Once again, the 14 dogs strutted their stuff on the runway wearing designs from 12 different designers in the Pet Product Design and Marketing Professional Development certificate program. President Brown’s dog Bebe definitely turned heads and shared top billing with media star Vanilla, who was seen in Reebok ads in national magazines, was lent by alumni Ada Nieves. With the huge success of last year’s show, Professor Linda Finnerty, the Special Events Marketing Public Relations instructor, was proud that this year brought in more students and more of the pet loving public. “Even though
these are tough economic times, people are still buying clothes and accessories for their dogs today,” said professor Finnerty. The AMC students involved in the event were avid to get word out on the show and introduce a new judge, Mario DiFante, executive director and representative from Pet Fashion Week New York. He selected student designs to tour the world for a year and they will be on display at various Pet Fashion week events. Student Hilary Byers, head of the marketing team, said, “Though it is a pet fashion show, we want people to feel like they are walking into a professional environment. Our class was extremely passionate about this event.” The marketing, production and sponsorship teams consisted of 30 people who coordinated the event to create a show that was a lot to “bark” about and that will create buzz after the show. Like at most fashion events, the show dogs and attendees received “doggy bags” to bring home full of treats and goodies to please both species. More Information on the event and other pet apparel news is posted on the Bryant Bark Facebook and Twitter pages. The pet fashion show was a night to remember and if you couldn’t join in on the fun this year follow the leash to next year’s show.
FIT contributes to CGI by creating Sustainable Denim Dorelle McPherson
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resident Brown has rallied up nine department chairs to contribute to the (previouslyreported-by-W27) sustainability commitment made to the Clinton Global Initiative. The chairs have developed a strategy for FIT to participate in CGI through fashion design and a linear production plan that encompass the creative ideas of faculty and students. The collaborative effort creates a process that takes a sustainable denim product from design through product development and finally through to production.
The denim will be branded as FIT Denim. The proprietary concept is comprised of a men’s and women’s style designed by students Laura Burns and Jenny McMeans. The design process is very similar to the actual process of creating a line. There were four students chosen to design the two silhouettes. The two designs were reviewed and chosen by the design department chairs. The fabric selected is from a farm in Virginia and the garments will be made in the USA. This is where the true essence of sustainability comes in. The treatment of the denim which is 98% cotton and 2% spandex is laser garment washed. Usually denim is treated to soften the fibers with enzyme chemicals that slowly breakdown the denim to create a softer feel. A lot of current styles have that “worn out look” or are permanently creased in natural areas; this is also done in the chemical wash process. Laser washing allows that same softening and styling to be achieved with out the use of many of the harmful chemical washes used by a majority denim companies. Once the fabric is prepared, the Technical Design department, under the guidance of Luz Pascal and Cassandra Williams, get involved. They embrace the challenge of communicating the design while mastering the fit technology. Design and fittings are done in class since the sustainability program began last Fall.
The next steps are crucial as the fit is designed to be a universal fit, and denim jeans are one of the most difficult garments to fit. Along with the denim, the Textile Surface Design and Accessories Design departments have created a reusable shopping bag crafted out of 100% cotton canvas. A $5.00 blue and white batik-printed bag will be sold along with the jeans, price to be determined, at FIT’s Style Shop. Other departments, such as graphic design, created the hang tags and labels. The AMC program will be working closely with all other departments and chairs to create an effective promotional campaign and incentive program for the products. Video production of a commercial is in the works, as well as a campaign for the Fall 2010 Style Shop, which will host the jeans when they come out of production. Part of the sales initiative will be for students to surrender an old pair of jeans in exchange for a discount on the FIT Denim. The disposed-of jeans will then be shredded and used domestically to make insulation material for homes. Upon completion of the pant, President Brown will convene with the Clinton Global Initiative Group to present the project and contribution. The project is wholly funded by FIT and students who participated will be given an award of recognition by the CGI group. This will also come with a monetary prize for selected students of $1000. Students have been encouraged to donate the proceeds of the prize to the Haiti Relief Fund.
Naira Batachpapson and Katherina Earnshaw inspecting a pair of FIT Denim.
Canvas bag designed by Janel Gancena and Brian Aguilar.
This is one of the first times that FIT has engaged the departments to make a contribution along with students. The initiative of Dr. Brown, Dean Sackin and Dean Arbuckle has given FIT a reason to celebrate a sustainable culture now and into the future. Models showing off the fit of the denim
Photos Courtesy of Deborah Beard
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College Admission Process Gets the Video Treatment Danielle Pacelli as Tufts University, applicants are now encouraged-though not required, to submit short Youtube videos to showcase themselves. Almost ten percent of applicants are taking advantage of this new opportunity, submitting videos of everything from rapping to dancing and everything in between. While writing will always be an important skill, allowing the submission of videos enables the applicant to share his or her voice and personality in an entirely new way. Compare this to when we applied to FIT. We were only encouraged to submit an essay explaining why we were perfect candidates, why we were interested in the major we chose, and other activities, experiences and accomplishments that set us apart. Letters of recommendation were not encouraged, and interviews were not even a thought. But that is likely to change and drastically as FIT continues to pursue current academic trends.
Graphic design by Heather Viggiani with official Youtube logo.
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ince when does Youtube have a say in your future? Since now, apparently. On our path toward a more technologically savvy society, even the college application process is adapting to meet new demands. Already, at some colleges such
How long will it be before everything turns to video? More and more people are gravitating toward using video for everything from communicating to branding themselves on Youtube. Skype enables people to see and talk to friends and family across the country or on another continent minus long-distance charges or the fear of dropped calls. Chatroulette gives us the chance to meet people we never otherwise would.
that person gains fame. That kind of capability--to be able to reach millions of people without being a public figure or even leaving our bedroom has never before been possible until now. Everyone loves to be seen and heard, and everyone has an opinion it seems, and Youtube has become the channel du jour enabling people to garner the attention they seek. While blogging will always be a popular source of information, opinion and gossip, “vlogging” takes the viewer’s experience a step further. Vlogging permits more direct access to a communication, as if the person is sitting across from you having a conversation. People want their information to get to them quickly and in an amusing manner, and vlogging makes that happen. It’s almost strange--certainly quaint to think that there was a time when people wrote letters and waited days or even weeks for a reply. We’ve become entirely accustomed to a faster pace of communication and information, where we can access whatever we need with the click of a button. It’s even stranger to think that something as crucial as a college application might eventually ride solely on your ability to visually entertain the admissions department of your dream school.
Youtube enables anyone to be seen and heard. Any average shmo can create a video and if others love it,
Club love On the Right Track: FIT Welcomes a New Running Team Kevia Wright
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s this is an issue dedicated to health and wellness, it is only coincidentally timely that FIT has a new track team that started this semester. The new track team is small, but members are hopeful that the program will build in coming years. The team is coached by FIT faculty member, Joe Plutz who also coaches another running team outside of FIT. They have the luxury of practicing at the Armory, which is where the military trains and where many track meets are held, including the New York State Track Championships for public high schools. Right now the team practices twice a week together and does individual work on their own time. The team competes in nearby localities such as New Jersey, Staten Island and here in Manhattan. April 7th is the NJCAA championships and also their final meet. Snow Club in Vermont! Photo Courtesy of Kevia Wright
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Expectations were ELLEvated for WFIT’s Panel with the World’s Number One Fashion Magazine Heather Viggiani
he ones lucky enough to make it into the Katie D. Amphitheater on April 5th to hear six of the top editors at ELLE magazine were treated to a night of advice, games and laughs. WFIT and FIT@ Night sponsored Joe Zee, Anne Slowey, Joann Pailey, Kate Lanphear and Jade Frampton to speak before the eager student body. After recognition of a few key administrators, including Dr. Brown along with the club’s faculty advisor John Cokkinos, the questions were fired and the staffers responded, some with more ease than others. “Anne [Slowey] was quite the charac-
ter,” one attendee remarked of the most chatty of the bunch. Students learned that Lanphear isn’t a fan of the Telephone video; that Frampton dreams of denim, lingerie and swim; that Zee appreciates the group projects he did as an FIT student; that Pailey is obsessed with grunge right now and that Slowey doesn’t exactly appreciate young bloggers. The night was ended with a deluge of camera-clutching Zee and Lanphear fans storming the stage and the WFIT members surely leaving with a sense of accomplishment for pulling off quite the event. The most relieved of all was
WFIT president Zadrian O’neal Smith. “As I watched students rush to the stage at the end, I realized one of the many beauties of the Fashion Institute of Technology is the direct exposure and connection to an industry that students revere and yearn to be a part of. I was pleased that WFIT was able to help foster this.” The event in its entirety will be made available in the Department of Student Life for students to view and a review of the event can be found on the WFIT website at www.wfitync.com.
DEAR INDUSTRY
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We’re Bringing Curvy Back Veronica Heras
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he models say “thin” is the standard that is set for them. The agencies’ then say “thin” is what the designers want. What about the designers? They say the agencies only send them thin and editors say the size of the designers’ samples sent to them forces them to use thin. Bottom line is, everyone is pointing fingers instead of examining the size zero ideal itself and putting an end to it--until now. Ever younger and thinner models have been the trend for over a decade now, but 2010 may just be the year for change. Editors, modeling agents, and designers along with industry watchdogs like the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) are actively working to promote a healthy look for models. They want to change the sample size-made preproduction from 0 to 4. The models themselves are taking a stand as well. While supermodel Kate Moss believes “nothing tastes as good as skinny feels,” other models including Lara Stone, Kim Noorda, Coco Rocha and Crystal Renn are starting to speak out on the issue of model weight and are breaking away from the X-ray skeletal look. “When designers, stylists or agents push children to take measures that lead to anorexia or other health problems in order to remain in the business, they are asking the public to ignore their moral conscience in favor of the art,” said 21-year-old top model, Rocha. In February, during NYC Fall 2010 Fashion Week, the model faced controversy when she was called “too fat for the runway’’ because of her new size 4 figure. The woman’s average size in the US is 14, so only in the fashion industry can 4 be considered fat. Just two years ago the 5-foot-10 model was 108 lbs. and even then she was told to lose weight. She did, until she made herself sick. Rocha says that now that she is a grown woman and an established model she can make better decisions for herself. Her efforts are to help young girls entering the industry. Crystal Renn is another model who left behind the
The Coca Rocha controversey, Photo Courtesy of the Daily News
“I’m a size zero with an eating disorder,” in preference of a healthy size 12. She is hotter than ever, as her career as a plus size model has really taken off. She will be on the cover of June’s Glamour, with Victoria Secret model Alessandra Ambrossio and Sports Illustrated swimsuit issue covergirl Brooklyn Decker. Famed fashion photographer Terry Richardson also shot Renn and “typical” sized model Jacquelyn Jablonski, wearing the same styles and posing similarly alongside each other for V magazine’s editorial, cleverly called “One Size Fits All.” In another editorial called “Curves Ahead,” plus-size models Candice Huffine, Marquita Pring, Michelle Olsen, Tara Lynn, and Kasia P posed in a range from very little clothes to no clothes at all.
Christina Hendricks on the cover of New York Magazine’s Spring Fashion Issue, Photo Courtesy of nymag.com
It seems like the industry is desperately trying to prove that they are tolerant of every shape and size. Anna Wintour talks about the weight issue and the work Vogue is doing to help in their April Body issue. Christina Hendricks appeared on New York magazine’s spring fashion edition’s cover, because according to them it is “the return of the voluptuous.” Meanwhile, curvy model Lara Stone is the face for Louis Vuitton. The big trend is going abroad as well. French Elle featured plus-size model Tara Lynn in their April issue. Things got scary for a while there, so it’s a good thing curvy is back.
THE SUSTAINABILITY CONFERENCE THURSDAY, APRIL 22 8:15 am - 5:30 THE GREAT HALL
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FITTing into the Industry: Designer and Reality TV Star Jerome Lamaar Terrence Phearse mother’s gown. That’s what sparked my love of fashion, leading me to attend the Art and Design High School.
one can imagine how daunting that schedule could be. If not, let’s just say I didn’t have much of a social life.
TP: Why did you choose the Fashion Institute of Technology and what did you study while you were here?
TP: What facilities did you rely on most to get you through your courses?
JL: Growing up, my mother would take the family into the city on the weekends. I remember passing by FIT and thinking to myself, “I want to go to there when I grow up.” Years later I took Saturday Live classes as a junior and senior in high school. This afforded a natural transition into my freshman year at FIT. TP: What were some of your favorite professors and what was special or dynamic about them?
Jerome Lamaar, photo by Timothy Rosado
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JL: The professors at FIT that I like the most were Professor Steven Stipelman, Professor Sharon Rothman and the entire Fashion Art department. They all helped me develop creative ways to manage my school projects with my professional life. Nonetheless, my most important mentor was Ms. Taur Orange, the Director of FIT’s Educational Opportunity Program. Orange gave me a haven to grow and develop even though I wasn’t entirely an EOP candidate.
ashion designer and Kimora: Life in the Fab Lane reality television star Jerome Lamaar is the perfect example of someone working hard to fit into the fashion industry. He’s a role model for angst-ridden, soon-to-be graduates and how they can achieve such success. Many are thinking, “OMG…I’m graduating next month, what am I going to do???” Recently, I sat down with Mr. Lamaar, a 2006 FIT alumnus, to obtain a little insight on how he is fitting into the industry.
TP: Would you do anything differently, if you could do it all over again?
Terrence Phearse: How long have you been interested in fashion?
JL: I attended FIT from 2003-2006 and it wasn’t nearly as big as it is today. I remember when the cafeteria was on the fifth floor of the A Building and I would eat off my friend’s plates between classes. During my time there I took 22.5 credits every semester. I am sure any-
Jerome Lamaar: My interest in fashion began at the early age of five. My parents realized that I drew a picture of their wedding photo with great emphasis on my
JL: I would have changed my bachelor’s degree studies from fabric styling to accessories design after finishing my associate program in fashion design. I recently discovered that my heart has always lead me to design great accessories before I even conceptualizing garments. TP: What was your typical day like here at FIT?
JL: I relied heavily on the computer and sewing labs. I don’t know how I would’ve survived without them. The resources are really unique at FIT and I recommend everyone take advantage of what the school offers. TP: What was it like to design for Baby Phat outside of the reality TV world? JL: Everything you saw on the television show is how it is when the cameras were off. Working at Baby Phat allowed me to go to school, travel, and design freely. The experience opened up many doors for me to work with fashion houses such as Manolo Blahnik, top supermodels, celebrities and huge stylists. I really enjoyed my time at Baby Phat and the only reason I resigned was to grow and experience life before it became too late. TP: So you most notably said, “I’ve gone from Baby Phat and Kimora’s Fab Lane to my own lane.” What are you doing now? JL: That statement signifies my independence. I needed to let go of someone else’s dream and develop my own. Currently I’m focusing on my luxury accessories collection titled Compleated. In order to develop a client base and my own personal aesthetic I have started an online journal for my brand detailing my point of view for the world to see. I don’t know if everyone really understands me, but hopefully in due time my view will be understood. Check out Jerome’s blog for more insight at http:// www.compleatist.blogspot.com or on Twitter: @ jeromelamaar.
FUNNYAS HELL!”
“
-Thessaly LaForce,
THE NEW YORKER
“A SLY SATIRE of celebrity,
consumerism, and the art world!”
-John Horn,
LA TIMES
“EXHILARATING AND INVENTIVE!” “JOYOUS! -David Fear, TIME OUT NEW YORK
One of the most inspired, adroit, hilarious debut features ever!”
-Amy Taubin,
FILM COMMENT
STARTS FRIDAY APRIL 16 LANDMARK’S
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THREAD ACCOUNT
FASHION INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY
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Does Commercialism Mean Conformity? The Ongoing Debate Heats Up at Paris Fashion Week Misty Sidell
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his past season, Paris Fashion Week was home to many notably directional fashion houses putting forth a commercial aesthetic never before seen. Designers presented clothes that were innovative enough to stimulate attention and interest, yet commercial enough to not deter timid consumers who are strapped for cash from buying. The average fashion student tends to favor outlandish clothing over what is considered “safe.” While this perspective may lead to success at term garment time for fashion design students, seldom do outrageous designs lead to widespread acclaimed success beyond the FIT walls. However, this does not mean that one needs to produce banal designs in order to become a commercial success. There is a definite middle ground that exists, an intermediate place where fashion can be classified as both innovative and profitable. The latest Parisian fashion shows brought this middle ground to the forefront, highlighting its strong qualities in a way that storied designers such as Yves Saint Laurent and Hubert de Givenchy once accomplished under their namesake lines. Pheobe Philo was most praised for artfully achiev-
ing that balance between art and commerce at Celine. collection that is both accessible and fashion-forward. The Chloe alum’s work was described by FIT Museum These examples should provide the vangard of new Director Dr. Valerie Steele as “remarkable for its designers with newfound inspiration to create with a creativity and commercial success.” Philo presented market-driven perspective. Professor Steven Stipela highly focused collection of streamlined silhouettes man, Chairperson of the Fashion Art Department and clean lines to a growing brigade of Paris’ freshadvises, “You have to make est fashion phenoms. It money to survive but balance “You have to make money was aesthetically fresh, it; maintain your vision while yet commercially sound- a to survive but balance it; not selling out. People are tutorial from which all receptive to what is new, maintain your vision while not very F.I.T. design majors can they are waiting for what is take note. next.”
selling out.”-Steven Stipelman
Other collections successful in this vein included Marc Jacobs’ Louis Vuitton and Lanvin by Alber Elbaz. They were notable for doing as fashion is intended; they are engineered to clear a profit while raising the bar for the industry.
It is most interesting to note that in fashion’s most commercial capitals (New York and Milan), most collections that possess strong retail capability often lack the creative oomph necessary to effect the kind of momentum that triggers a fresh trend. Celine, among the conglomerate-controlled houses, offers a clothing
That balance is largely what accounts for the success of Lanvin, Vuitton, and Celine. These designers recognized their unwavering voices while crafting clothing that can be worn by everyday women. Their designs are “commercially innovative,” a fashion hybrid of wearable obtainability and forward design. Doctor Steele observes, “Avant-garde has to be ahead of the curve, and if the curve never follows, then it’s not avant-garde is it?”
Designer Profile: Kathleen Kirkwood Taisa Veras
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aisa Veras: This month’s W27 issue is dedicated to body, shape and health. Your collection of undergarments that accentuate a woman’s shape is genius because most women are self-conscious about their body image. What made you want to launch a line of shapewear that helps shape and enhance a woman’s body? Kathleen Kirkwood: Well, now that I’m over 40 years old, I have a little ‘extra-love’ in a few places, especially ‘gravity bulges around my trouser line. I decided that a solution for me could work for other women who want to keep a young appearance for as long as they can. TV: Have you ever had any body image issues that you wanted to change? The designer.
KK: I am a woman--of course I have! I’d like to change my thighs. I would love the measurement right above my knee to be the same as my upper thigh. When I get a magic wand, that is the first thing I’ll do! TV: Do you wear pieces from your line? If so, which one(s)? KK: I live in them! The test for me recently was my trip back last week from Hong Kong, a 17-hour flight. I chose to wear my Boy Oh Boy shaping shorts. They’re soft, smooth, seamless and cool on long flights and nothing else comes close to the comfort and results. TV: What do you do to keep the collection new and interesting for your customer? KK: I go to the library, go on trips, and watch vintage black and white films, but mainly, I arrive at solutions during those ‘eureka’ moments in life.
Cami by Kathleen Kirkwood.
Photos courtesy of Kathleen Kirkwood.
TV: What is the design process like? How many people other than yourself are involved? KK: I design on paper. Then meet with a team consisting of a technical drawing person, a merchandiser (that keeps me sane), a spec and technical expert and a fit model from heaven. TV: I’ve seen you on QVC, what’s that experience like? KK: I’ve been on for 17 years, and it’s hard work. It is glamorous and it allows me to share my passion with viewers on camera, instead of relying on a flat-hangtag to communicate the idea. TV: Your pieces are often worn at red-carpet events, what’s the most popular piece for those occasions? KK: The Sonic Slimmers Smoothing cami. It’s thin, sexy, pretty, clean and easy-to-wear every day (comes in 8 colors!). TV: What’s your favorite beauty secret to stay in shape? KK: Go to the gym, ride a horse, play tennis, walk to work, garden, spin-cycle, (attempt) yoga, and laugh. TK: What’s your idea of a perfect body? KK: Any woman 19 years of age! Kathleen’s shapewear can be purchased at www.qvc.com.
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FUSION
2010
W27
Style Trial: The Jury is Out on Fusion Fashion
FIT WINS! Fusion Fashion Show. If you aren’t sure what these three words indicate, then you must be living beneath a rock. Fusion is the yearly design competition between our Fashion Design students and their rivals--those that attend Parson’s School of Design at the New School for the same reason. The process is rigorous but the reward is priceless--to have an entire cohesive collection shown before industry professionals at a highly publicized runway event. Judges nominate a winning overall school and then for each school choose one winner and one honorable mention. This year, FIT’s designers took home the top prize and the overall winner, Mackenzie Sam can count himself in the same company as well-known designers Alexander Wang, Chris Benz and Prabal Gurung (they all won the same title when they participated in the event.) Danae McCarthy received honorable mention for her design. W27 was sure to get in on the action on the weekend of the show and resident stylist Edward Bowleg came back to school with one thing in mind: find the best looks, the best models and the best photographer to display their hard work. Enjoy the results.
This Year’s Judges Damien Nunes Fashion Editor at GQ Mary Kate Steinmiller Editor at Teen Vogue Hisham Oumlil - Designer Nicolas Putvinski Designer & Project Runway Contestant James Boehmer NARS Senior Stylist
W27 Editor-in-Chief sits down with Mackenzie Sam to talk about winning Fusion, menswear being fashion’s bastard stepchild and getting one’s name out there as a designer. First of all, how relieved do you feel now that all the nights of sewing, pattern making and sketching are over? Was there ever a point where you weren’t sure everything was going to come together? I always tried to stay organized and on top of my work so there wasn’t a rush to get things done. This was what really took a lot of stress off my hands, as I finished the collection early and was able to touch up on a couple of pieces in the end. It wasn’t really until the actual show that there was a point where I was unsure about turnout of the collection, and that was only because I was nervous as to what the collection would look like coming down the runway. I am glad that the collection was such a success and that my hard work has paid off, however I love designing and creating clothing so I am really excited to be working on another collection for next year. How does it feel to know you are in the same company as Prabal Gurung, Chris Benz and Alexander Wang?
I know they reward you with a Mood Fabrics credit of $1000. I’m sure that doesn’t even cover one look in the heaps of layers that you designed with. What was the total cost of your collection if you don’t mind me asking? Did you have a hard time coming up with the cost? Well I really try to focus on choosing the right materials for each piece. I feel that a balance of design and fabric is what makes a garment perfect. Having interesting and unique fabrics to work with was the most important part of my collection. So, when choosing my fabrics I was willing to spend a lot more even if it was a simple design. In terms of the cost, let’s just say I spent a lot of money. I had a lot of separate pieces and layers within the collection (around 30), so I am guessing it was a little more than the other designers, but again, fabric was my focal point. Let’s just say the average price of my fabric was about $40 per yard. If you could go back and do anything differently, would you? Or would you keep it all the same? I kept the collection mainly basic, which gave me a lot of freedom when constructing the garments. Over the past months I have learned a lot and have improved my construction skills quite a bit. So, if I could go back, I would love to redesign and utilize what I have learned since. Luke in Mack Sam, photo by Qingyun Zhang
A couple of designers that I love and have been a huge inspiration to me are Damir Doma, and Rick Owens. [Editor’s Note: These are two avant-garde menswear designers.] I love the silhouettes and looks they maintain throughout each collection. Their use of proportion and their concepts are insane. I take most of my inspiration through objects or things with a unique shape or color (the fusion collection was inspired by lilies). Different shapes and textures within anything, whether its organic or synthetic also really inspire me. Everyone is always so focused on womenswear, how does it feel to be recognized as a menswear designer? Do you think the ladies designers get too much of the attention?
I love designing menswear, mainly because its more personal to me. If I can imagine myself wearing it, I will usually try to design or create it. Menswear has stereotypical borders around it in terms of how it is viewed, but I feel that the “Menswear has stereotypical boundaries are being pushed more and more. Menswear borders around it in terms of is a market that is slowly growing and more womenshow it is viewed, but I feel wear designers are creating that the boundaries are being men’s labels. The market is definitely smaller than the pushed more and more.” women’s, but I feel there is equal strength behind men’s -Mackenzie Sam design.
It is an honor to be following the same path as these amazing designers and a dream to eventually become as successful as these wellrespected individuals. I know that I am still young and have a long way to go before I achieve what these designers have, but it is an amazing feeling knowing that I am on the right track.
Mackenzie Sam, photo courtesy of fusionfashionshow.com.
else inspires you?
What designer is your biggest inspiration? What
How easily do you think your Fusion collection could go into production? A lot of the pieces I feel could easily go into production, and some, I think would be a bit harder to produce. But I love the authenticity of handcrafted garments and it is an idea and area I am developing. Who is the Mack Sam man? The “Mack Sam” man if someone that appreciates fabric and material, as well as quality. The market isn’t for everyone but can be easily approached by a non-familiar consumer. Whether young or old, my customer buys to “invest” in his product to wear for the rest of his life. His goal is not to stand out but to wear pieces that separate him from the mainstream. What, if any, are the challenges that worry you most about the industry right now? The biggest challenge is getting your name out there and having a good response to your designs. One of my biggest fears is rushing and starting a brand too fast. If I am putting my life into this collection and brand, I am willing to put as much time as possible into it. What’s next for you? Improving and developing my skills, creatively, and constructively. I’m also working towards a new collection. And here’s a piece of advice for design students, ‘Be organized, work hard and stay on top of your work. And design what represents you.’
FUSION
FASHION INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY
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Styled by Edward Bowleg III Photographed by Sarah Basset MODELS: Emma at Code Model Management; Lida at Next Model Management; Luke at Click Model Management; Sam at Click Model Managemen. CREW: Hair & Makeup by Lauren Thompson; Stylist’s Assistant: Katherine Gillies; Lighting: Qingyun Zhang
(From Left to Right): Emma in a Gabriele Skucas gown; Lida in a Gabriele Skucas sleeveless sweater and skirt; Emma in a Madeline Coons dress and headpiece; Sam in a Jang Woohyun shirt, vest, pants, and hat; Lida in an Edwin Mohney dress, Lida in a Danae McCarthy top, skirt, and Edwin Mohney headpiece; Emma in a Wendy Chen jacket and bodysuit; Lida in a Danae McCarthy dress; Sam in a Mackenzie Sam jacket, t-shirt, and pants; Emma in a Desmond Lim Zhengs wrap vest; Luke in a Mackenzie Sam hooded cardigan, t-shirt, shorts, and leggings; Emma in a Wendy Chen jacket and bodysuit; Lida in a Danae McCarthy top, skirt, and Edwin Mohney headpiece; Sam in a Mackenzie Sam jacket, t-shirt, and pants; all shoes and accessories stylists own.
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(From Left to Right): Sam in a Mackenzie Sam wrap sweater, layered t-shirts, and pants; Emma in a Desmond Lim Zhengs wrap vest; Luke in a Jang Woohyun shirt, vest, pants, and hat; Luke in Mackenzie Sam hooded wrap sweater, shorts, and leggings; Sam in a Jang Woohyun shirt, vest, pants, and hat; Luke in a Jang Woohyun shirt, vest, pants, and hat; Emma in a Jisun Kang cape; Lida in a Danae McCarthy dress; Emma in a Gabriele Skucas jacket and Jisun Kang romper; Lida in a Gabriele Skucas sleeveless sweater and skirt; Lida in a Sasha Corrodus-Odom ruffled corset and Edwin Mohney headpiece; Emma in a Madeline Coons dress and headpiece; all shoes and accessories stylists own.
FUSION
W27
FEATURE
FASHION INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY
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Salad Secrets Patrick Greene
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ften seen as the food of choice for dieters, salads have been a staple in the weight-loss toolkit for ages. Leafy heads of lettuce and other nutrient-packed veggies tend to come to mind when conjuring images of a traditional herbaceous feast. However, many casual chain restaurants such as Applebee’s and Ruby Tuesday have transformed the conservative notion of a salad into something unrecognizable. When a few FIT students were stopped and asked the harmlessness of a salad, a lot of similar responses kept cropping up. Below are two samples of the overall misconceptions that these like-minded students have. “It is just a salad after all.” -Alexis Raia The second year Fashion Design student shares the common belief that salads are light fare by default. This might be the case when prepared at home, but order a Santa Fe Chicken Salad from Applebee’s and you’re in for something far greater. One is already taking a step in the right direction with the grilled marinated chicken, but garnishing the bed of greens is a hefty amount of mixed cheese, tortilla strips, guacamole and sour cream to boot. After all is said and done, this bad boy sets you back 1300 Calories and 25g of saturated fat. Even refraining from the Mexi-ranch dressing only shaves 400 calories off this gut-buster.
Illustrated by Kimberly Graziano for W27.
“I always eat my salads with low fat or fat free dressing anyway.” -Chelsea Rizzo
This Fashion Merchandising major isn’t the only one who feels low fat is automatically healthy. Want to know what makes that guilt-free dressing taste so similar to its fatty counterpart? Sugar. Quite a bit of it to be exact. The light ranch dressing one can option to adorn their Club House Salad at Ruby Tuesday might indeed only have half the calories and fat of regular ranch, but with more than two teaspoons of sugar per serving in its stead. According to Janis Jibrin, a registered dietitian and contributor for WebMD.com, the overabundant amount of sugar used to enhance the flavor of fat free dressings inhibit the body’s natural ability to absorb the carotenoid antioxidants in salad greens. These antioxidants play a crucial role when it comes to preventing heart disease. The transformation of the salad from a healthy lifestyle icon to something we’re still , has crept up slowly. What once was the star of the meal--lettuce and veggies--are now an understudy to miscellaneous toppings, fried chicken, chemically-altered dressings and other accoutrements. In response to consumer inquiries, many chain restaurants have been becoming more transparent by publishing detailed nutritional information about all their offerings online. The secret isn’t so hush hush anymore. Despite the advances in food labeling laws, when it comes to the fine print, caveat emptor--a latin term for ‘buyer beware,’ still holds for now.
Smoking On Campus: Contamination vs. Containment Nicole Tan
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oised and grandiose, a cigarette in hand seems to be the chicest accessory one can wield to project an alluring mystique. It certainly worked for Marilyn Monroe and Audrey Hepburn. Yet, with today’s emphasis on cleaner air and the thinning ozone layer, smoking is frowned upon for its cloud of toxic byproducts and lingering stench. At the Fashion Institute of Technology, the assaultive funk of cigarette smoke can scarcely be avoided at the entrances to any of the five main buildings. State University of New York regulation declares that smoking is banned on all college campuses and must be conducted at a minimum of 20 feet away from all residence halls; a rule widely ignored by students statewide. Such a rule is difficult to enforce on an urban campus such as FIT. A twenty foot restriction would mean having a line of smokers standing shoulderto-shoulder down the middle of 27th Street; where a step to either direction would be a violation. Some argue that there should be no smoking on campus at all. Others say there should be a designated area and others still argue that it is the smoker’s prerogative and non-smokers should just walk by. So, why not a designated area for smokers?
Illustrated by Christian Castro for W27.
“Most of my friends are smokers, so it doesn’t annoy me [when they smoke], but I would say yes to a designated area because I don’t like breathing in second hand smoke,” said Harlan Bontrager, a first year Communication Design student. With health being a top concern, such statements are echoed among the student body of non-smokers. Keely-Shea Smith, a first year Advertising and Marketing Communications student adds, “It’s unhealthy for you anyway, so maybe the inconvenience of having to get up and smoke will deter people.”
Moreover, where would a smoking area be located on a non-smoking property? “I do see people smoking across from the A & B buildings, which is not school property,” says AMC Professor Albert Romano, a former smoker. “On second thought,” Romano continued, “If you’re a smoker, just make believe your day at FIT is being spent on an airplane where smoking isn’t allowed!” The issue isn’t one of whether or not there should be a designated smoking area, but simply why a SUNY mandated policy is not well enforced. However, setting the SUNY regulation aside, the “10-foot rule” of New York City states that smoking is prohibited indoors and within 10 feet of any public doorways. Two of FIT’s buildings are positioned around a breezeway, their doors are noticeably 10 feet away from any lingering smokers. “I should be able to smoke outside,” said Michael Creegan, a first year Fashion Design student. Creegan continued, “If there was a designated area for smoking, I would use it. I don’t mind going a bit away if smoking bothers people that much.” Many smokers are looking for more than just a nicotine fix; smoking is also seen as a social activity. If a designated smoking area was established most would gladly utilize said space. As Romano mentioned, “If I were still a smoker, I’d [also] be at the bench taking a few drags.” Rather than trying to ban smoking on campus altogether, perhaps a happy medium could be reached. For instance, a designated smoking area could be implemented as done in many airports. This way, smokers would be allowed a haven to smoke freely and nonsmokers would have the option to breath easy.
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2010
SUNLESS Tanning:
W27
Alternative ways to get your glow
Kevia Wright: Airbrush Tanning Beach Bum Tanning Location: 239 7th Ave between 23rd St. and 24th St. Cost: $70; first time students get the promotional price of $59 Being airbrushed (sprayed) by a technician was everything one would expect it to be. For starters, my naturally tan skin made my experience a little less challenging than most. Before you begin you choose whether you want to go either one or two shades darker than your present skin tone. Of course, I wanted to push the limits and ended up going for the darkest color allowed! I came prepped and ready to go by wearing an old bathing suit under my clothes. If you’re ill-prepared, the technician will hand you a paper doily that’s meant to cover up your naughty bits. Tanner beware! Make sure you dry yourself off completely before you robe up in your
Patrick Greene: Mystic Tans Hollywood Tans Location: 750 6th Ave between 24th St. and 25th St. Cost: $24 - $38 depending on how dark you want be. Being the self acclaimed fake-and-bake connoisseur that I am, I didn’t have very high hopes for my Mystic Tan adventure. For the spray tan newbies out there like myself, a two-minute video about the inner workings of Mystic Tanning is shown before the process officially beings. After being fully oriented I was thrown to the wolves. Stepping inside the “dressing chamber” I was greeted by a hairnet and barrier cream (to put anywhere you don’t want tan; i.e. Nails, hands and feet). After stripping down to nothing but my dignity, I hopped into the spraying booth. Once inside it’s all relatively simple and pretty difficult to mess up. A note of caution though, be prepared for short blasts of freezing air to shoot up and down your vulnerable naked body. Also, I don’t advise breathing during the duration of the tan as I started choking on the noxious, bronze death cloud
Veronica Heras: Self Tanning Mist Sevin Nyne Availability: Sephora Cost: $35 for a 5fl. oz can
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street clothes. I became impatient and just threw my clothes back on after only 15 minutes of drying with the provided air hose. Also note: I couldn’t shower for eight hours so there was this awkward stickiness I had to deal with all day long. Ease of application: Some of my tan transfer onto my t-shirt when I worked out. Scent: I smelled horrendous for the first 2 days. Overall Difference: I was about 2-3 shades darker within 30 minutes and people asked endlessly for almost a week if I had gone on vacation. By the second day, my tan looked more natural and even. It last bout a week, but the shade faded day by day.
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Ease Application: Although I had assistance in applying this self (you don’t need to put this in quotes) tanner, my final look still ended up totally uneven. Five minutes after the chemical mist cleared I looked more like Scooby than Snooki. I had pale streaks contrasting with patches of dark brown that were impossible to avoid, very cheetah-esque. I showered immediately and decided to give Sevin Nyne another shot. The directions say to hold
Kara Lewis: Self Tanning Lotion Jergens Natural Glow Daily Moisturizer Availability: Any Convenience Store Cost: $8.99 for a 7.5fl. oz bottle Ease Application: Jergens Natural Glow for fair skin tones, easily spread all over my Casper white naked body. Scent: Don’t leave your house for at least a ½ an hour after applying. It makes you smell like a damn flower that’s getting watered by a bottle of perfume. But usually if you put it
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that started to form inside the booth. From start to finish the entire process took four minutes, less time than it took for me to get undressed and prepped. There was no immediate difference after finishing, but the sales clerk did mention that it takes upward of five hours to reach is maximum tanning potential. Ease of application: Can’t get much easier; just stand there. Scent: I smelled like antiseptic for the first couple hours. Overall Difference: There was a noticeable difference in my face, but maybe only a shade darker on the rest of my body. Scratch that, by the end of the day I was looking noticeably darker.
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There once was a girl who tried Lindsay Lohan’s sun tanning mist, Sevin Nyne. (Clearly the reference is to 79 but why, what is the significance of this?) Unfortunately that girl was me.
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the can twelve inches away from the body while applying. WRONG. Spray at least three feet away, unless “highlighter orange” is the color you’re hoping to achieve. My biggest fear was that the product would run out and I’d be left half-tan, but for $35 there’s more than enough for two applications. Scent: The only positive thing was the delicious coconut smell. The Overall Difference: The color was very unnatural and the product was overly messy. Moral of the story; whatever Lindsay is selling, steer clear.
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on before bed the scent loses some intensity by morning. Overall Difference: In terms of the psychological effect, Jergens has that down pat. I was really convinced I was turning into one hot sun-kissed lady. But according to the rest of the world I’m still pasty. See for your self in the pictures below.
Body Building-FIT’s Campus Remedies for Shaping Up With midterms completed and finals just weeks away, stress is just around the corner. Don’t let it get the best of you and your health by taking advantage of the many ways to improve your physical well-being here at FIT--free of cost. After all, “You should pray for a sound mind in a sound body,” according to Juvenal, an iconic Roman poet at the cusp of the second century. In modern language: a healthy body leads to a healthy mind. Here are just two such services that are gratis. Free Massages in Health Services--Yes, You Read that Correctly
Cardio Blast with Warren Smart
By Yecca Zeng
By Kevia Wright
As a student at FIT, I am constantly pressed for time. There is, however, one appointment I always make space for and never miss. It’s my free massage session at Health Services. Thanks to Cecilia, a nurse at FIT who also holds a small private practice for massage therapy, I can enjoy a luxury otherwise unthought of for a student. I remember discovering this new feature a couple semesters ago and promptly appeared at the 4th floor of the A Building to make an appointment. There was a walk-in day offered as well, but I wanted to be absolutely certain that I would catch that massage, sans waiting! When I arrived, Cecilia greeted me graciously and I was then given a hospital gown and told to sit forward in a chair. When I was ready, Cecilia proceeded
to use non-greasy body butter to work over my entire back. After she kneaded my upper back and applied pressure down my spine, she moved on to my neck and scalp, followed by my arms and hands. The entire experience was perfect: soothing and relaxing. I could feel the thoughts of my term garment vanish into thin air. Finally, she informed softly that (unfortunately) she was finished. I begrudgingly opened my eyes and thanked Cecilia heartily for her service. Without delay, I scurried to the front desk to make my next appointment. Unfortunately, word of mouth has caused the appointment book to be all backed up and massages must be booked weeks in advance now. Regardless, that does not stop me from squeezing myself in; in fact, I look forward to my next session in May.
Have you ever been sitting in your classroom about to doze off when suddenly you hear a stampede just outside and pick your head up to see a line of students run past the doorway? Or maybe you were sitting outside the C building when you unexpectedly see a group of students jumping up and down and doing pushups on the heaters in the building’s lobby. This mysterious group of students is part of a class called Cardio Blast run by FIT instructor, Warren Smart. He leads six workout classes Monday through Friday at various times. I try to go to Cardio Blast every Tuesday from 6:30-7:30 p.m.. Usually we start out by warming up and doing some basic aerobics like jumping jacks and pushups. Then we
are off running through the hallways, down flights of stairs and then the dreaded sprints up to the 9th floor. Warren uses the entire campus of FIT to build stamina and to achieve the best workout. Doing grapevines through the lockers or squatting along the walls of the hallway are a normal occurance. I have been attending this class almost every week this semester and I am still sore afterwards for the next two days! If you are looking for a class to challenge your body, then I highly recommend Cardio Blast. This class will definitely wear you out, and your first time may be tough, but Speedo and bikini season is coming, and in the words of Warren, “It’s not a game!”
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Book Review: Food Rules Claycia Tweed
here shouldn’t be a gray area when it comes to food, literally and figuratively. To put it simply, we need it to survive. Yet food, and more specifically our eating habits, have sparked a lot research and many raging debates over the last several decades. Michael Pollan’s new book, Bookcover image courtesy Food Rules, addresses the current issues surrounding of Penguin Books. American’s eating habits today. From demonized nutrients like refined carbohydrates and flashy results-guaranteed “diets,” to advertisers touting the latest health-conscious food products, there is large amount of clutter bombarding consum-
ers everyday diet decisions. Food Rules combines information presented in two of Pollan’s previous books: New York Times Best Seller The Omnivore’s Dilemma and James Beard Award winner In Defense of Food: An Eater’s Manifesto, into a condensed, easy to read handbook. Pollan’s latest salvo allows readers to allocate half the reading time, while still absorbing an abundance of eating information. Pollan describes Food Rules as more of an “an eater’s manual” than a rulebook to follow, advising readers to approach food with a more simplistic outlook. Through basic common sense and some dietary wisdom backed by an abundance of scientific research, Pollan provides readers with a set of easy to understand guidelines for healthy eating. The handbook-style layout of the book provides a set of straightforward set of dietary guidelines, with one “food rule” per page accompanied by a brief explanation.
The easy-to-use guide touches upon how Americans’ eating and food purchasing habits have drastically changed from that of our ancestors. Drawing upon a variety of traditional eating habits endemic to other cultures, Pollan demonstrates how their outlook on food that has remained constant over the years as with their health. Fortunately, Food Rules doesn’t wax poetically about the precise reasons certain nutrients are good for you and how many calories one should eat per day. It gives readers simple rules about what to eat, why and how. Indicating how our eating habits can affect our health just as much as the food, we consume. Food Rules presents readers with a straight-forward and even slightly humorous guide to achieving an overall healthy lifestyle. So if you’re more interested in improving your health than reaching a goal weight, then you’ll find Food Rules to be a good read.
Ground up Cow Carcass with a Splash of Ammonia Kara Lewis
outh Sioux City, Nebraska: Beef Products Inc. doesn’t leave a scrap behind. Producing processed beef out of excess fatty trimmings was once demoted to mere pet food status.
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Raising cows that naturally eat grass on a grain-based diet allows for their intestinal tracts to become far more acidic than normal, resulting in rapid E. coli and salmonella growth.
The fatty trimmings used “typically include most of the material from the outer surfaces of the carcass,” according to a 2003 study by Beef Products Inc, which contain higher levels of E. coli and salmonella contaminants. In order to kill the pathogens, ammonia is injected into the meat as a processing agent. Eight years ago, with the USDA’s signature of approval, ammonia-spiked processed beef began popping up at McDonald’s, Burger King and fast food restaurants alike, as well as grocery store chains throughout the country.
By pumping cows full of enormous quantities of grain and growth hormones, not to mention antibiotics, factory farms can take a cow from birth weight to slaughter size in approximately half the time it takes for a grass fed cow to fully develop (more information can be found on foodrevolution.org. This results in lower overall costs of factory farm beef vs. grass- fed beef. Yet, if you compare the health benefits between the two, grass fed beef proves to be well worth the extra cost.
With the exposure of such meat processing practices and deplorable factory farm conditions, over the past decade grass fed beef has been landing on restaurant menus and showing up at farmers markets and specialty grocery stores across the nation. According to the American Grassfed Association, grass fed products come from animals who have eaten nothing but fresh grass or grass-type hay from birth to slaughter.
In 2009 the USDA teamed up with Clemson University to perform a study comparing grass fed beef to grain-fed. The results indicated that grass fed beef was lower in total fat content, higher in heart healthy omega 3’s and had almost twice the amount of conjugated linoleic acid (CLA.) CLA’s are a key isomer containing cancer-fighting properties as well as contributing to lowering the risk of diabetes and other health problems.
Today, the majority of meat available to consumers is produced in factory farms where the cows are subject to a high-calorie diet of inexpensive grain and corn.
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While grass fed beef proves to be better for overall human health, in terms of taste, is the difference
noticeable? To find out, W27 conducted a hamburger taste test comparing grass fed ground beef to supermarket ground beef. The grass fed beef was purchased from Nectar Hills Farm, a certified organic farm that raises grass fed/free-range highlander cattle, in upstate New York. In 2002, owners Sonia Sola and Dave Dutton moved from Brooklyn to the small hamlet of Schenevus. Sonia and Dave, former vegetarians concerned with their nutrient intake, decided that if they were going to eat meat that they were going to raise it themselves. A group of volunteers put their palate to work providing feedback for the taste-off. Responses stated that the supermarket burger was far greasier, lacking in any flavor that didn’t come from grease and condiments. The grass fed burger was noted for its tender texture, greaseless consistency, and much “meatier” flavors. In the end, Nectar Hills Farm won hands down. Now that you have some food for thought when craving a burger, the choice is yours. Head over to McDonalds and sink your teeth into a freeze-dried mush of cow carcass and ammonia, or you can walk across the street to brgr, located at 287 Seventh Ave and devour a burger made with 100% grass fed beef. Which will you choose?
Exhibit Review: new york Body Works Camilla Mayer
or most students in the arts programs at FIT, taking a figure drawing class is required. While the nude model poses, we rapidly sketch out the form of the figure, not always thinking what lies beneath its dermal canopy. At South Street Sea Port’s world renowned Body Works Exhibit, a running theme is “to see is to know.” Bodies are displayed in a way that the world has never seen before. The exhibit offers a freakishly close up view on real human bodies—bones, muscles, veins and all. Unless you plan to enter the medical field anytime soon, this may be the only chance to take an in depth view of the complicated world of the human body. Enter the Body Works Exhibit into a dimly lit room, with illuminated cadavers. It begins in the first room with the skeletal system and as you make your way through the room, each layer of the body is slowly revealed. The exhibit has about twenty whole “specimens” (the exhibit uses the term “specimen” instead of human because it’s the proper museum word for something formerly alive) and based on the room, specimens show common functions of the body such as pitching a baseball or conducting an orchestra.
Taking a close up look at the specimens, muscles and bones look rubbery and almost resemble beef jerky. This texture is because bodies are preserved permanently with a process called “polymer preservation.” Water and fatty tissue are replaced by an injection of silicone rubber, polyester, and epoxy resin. Each specimen is displayed openly, so viewing all angles up close is possible. Even viewing the nervous system is possible. Entering the room, encased in several glass boxes filled with liquid, is the silhouette of arms, legs, and torsos. These are our bodies’ veins, made up of rich red delicate highways resembling coral, that our blood vessels use to move from head to toes. Wondering what obesity looks like, or cancer, or possibly the state of your lungs if you smoke? The Bodies Exhibit is committed to educating people about what our bodies are made of, and what positive life choices we should take in order to take care of them. At one point in the exhibit, the decision to quit smoking is encouraged by throwing away your carton of cigarettes in a glass box filled with discards from other
committed souls. As far as where the bodies come from in the exhibit, Cheryl Mure, Vice President of Education for Premier Exhibitions, Inc, was able to answer our questions. “The full body specimens are people who lived in China and died from natural causes. After the bodies were unclaimed at death, pursuant to Chinese law, they were delivered to a medical school for education and research. Information about the identities, medical histories and causes of death are kept strictly confidential.” Cheryl Mure is responsible for customizing the exhibit’s information according to each location. Thankfully, New York has a permanent collection so there is no need to fight crowds of tourists. If you like to draw, show up on designated nights where in-house artists are there to help you sketch and learn about the bodies. Tickets are priced at $26.00, pretty steep for us broke college students but it’s definitely worth it. It’s not for the faint of heart, but viewing this exhibit could possibly be life-changing. To be able to see first hand what lies beneath the skin is definitely an incentive for people to hit the gym or quit smoking.
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HAUTE CULTURE
2010
W27
Music Self Image Boner Cameron Chambers
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oes it matter how you view yourself ? Probably, because you live in New York (a cruel place) and if you’re ugly then you better be funny or have loads of cash. The other day, I went to an interview and heard the manager ask the dope I interviewed with, “Is he cute?” He didn’t want my application if my handsomeness wasn’t up to his measuring standards. I know, I know, it makes sense. People like attractive people. So, if you’re not attractive start reading “Self Matters” by everyone’s favorite bald doctor, Philip McGraw. Dr. Phil says, “You can’t change what you don’t acknowledge.” What he’s basically saying is, acknowledge that you’re butt ugly and do something about it! Get shitloads of plastic surgery: makeup, new teeth, tucks, cuts and whatever else it takes. If you can’t afford these solutions, I’ve found that in job circumstances, you just shape your mouth like an O and pray your GAG reflex wants the job too. But for realz... The best way to feel good about yourself, inside and out, is believe whatever your mother says about you.
MGMT- The new CD is called “Congratulations.” Congratulations, MGMT for not making a birdshit sophomore album. These guys deserve a pat on the ass for being brave and not allowing their success to dry up their creative juiciness. Benjamin Blower and the Army of the Broken Hearted- The CD is called-”The Darkness Doesn’t Love You, Come Out While You Can.” This band makes me want to spank my “Ricky Martin.” That’s a good thing. Folk-experimental with a popchurchrock feel, what more could you want? Well maybe someone to wake up next to, ugly. Gorrillaz- Love me some “Plastic Beach!” This new album has sixteen songs, and is definitely worth stealing (oops!). Literally, steal this album. It’s one of those CD’s you can play at any occasion, Bar Mitzva, cow tipping, and for you Latinos, Quinceaneras! (fifteen was great age). It’s a little more pop than their previous albums.
Bands to help you swallow your next workload.
We Are Wolves- You should start liking this band before everyone else does. “Invisible Violence,” is their new album. I started listening to them in 2007 and they’re still not popular, so they’re due for some bone.
The Middle East- If you like to cry (which I do), then you’ll love this band! They have an EP out and it’s five songs for $4.95. That’s fair.
Rafter- I think this band is worth checking out... maybe. With one listen you’ll know they’re from Californsuck. Not sure if that’s good or bad. Probably bad
Enough great advice! Time for some music.
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but give it a shot. The Delta Mirror- “Machines That Listen” I like to listen to this band when I’m contemplating suicide. Not the bad kind of suicide but the kind that makes your mom love you again. The kind where you think of everyone saying really nice shit around your casket like- “He had the biggest, heart, shucks.....” It kind of sounds like low-fi, industrial, tear jerking, beef jerking, jerking jerking, a non commercialized Interpol. Hey all you Lady KaKa heads in FIT land! If you like or dislike my picks, tell me. Or send a suggestion and I’ll spread the dirty love. james_chambers@fitnyc.edu
MGMT’s Congratulations, Album Art Courtesy of Sony/Columbia
Film Review: “The Sun Behind the Clouds” Ava Wiland
he documentary “The Sun Behind the Clouds” by filmmakers Ritu Sarin and Tenzing Sonam, examines the tension within the Tibetan community in determining what approach the nation should take towards Chinese occupation. The film focuses on the 2008 uprisings in Tibet and cities all over the world in response to the Beijing Olympics, with an underlying theme addressing the anti-Chinese foreign policy. The film chronologically follows a group of frustrated monks in exile on a march from India to Tibet’s capital, Lhasa, while also taking an intimate look at the spiritual and political leader of the Tibetan people, His Holiness, the Dalai Lama. The Dali Lama endorses the “Middle Way,” which is a policy that accepts Tibet’s political dependency on China, but attempts to reach a compromise on religious and cultural freedom. This approach, which has failed to yield any positive out-
come, has spread frustration and division among the Tibetan people. Several interviews with Tibetan political activists, one of them who set out on the march alongside the monks, voiced the younger generation’s impatience with their leader’s fruitless efforts to negotiate a settlement with China. His Holiness the Dalai Lama is revered by the Tibetan people and is a symbol of peace worldwide, nonetheless is represented in “The Sun Behind the Clouds” as a conciliatory spiritual leader, but an ineffective political ruler. Scenes transition between segments of interviews that voice the intellectual Tibetan community with a more militant stand, then swifitly transition into scenes following the Dalai Lama’s trips around the world addressing the political issues in Tibet. The film was at the center of controversy at the Palm Springs International Film Festival, where a Chinese
feature was pulled out by the state-run China Film Group in protest of the festival’s exhibition of the “Sun Behind the Clouds.” Ironically though, the documentary seems to focus on and criticize the Dalai Lama more than China. FIT and W27 have paid close attention to the political issues roiling Tibet. A lecture and documentary was held on campus in the Great Hall discussing the Chinese occupation in Tibet this past October. “The Sun Behind the Clouds” offers a succinct and interesting introduction to the Chinese-Tibet conflict, and an even more creative look at political tensions and conflicts within the Tibetan community-- a struggle the United States can easily identify with at this moment of deep partisan division between our own political parties. Look for “The Sun Behind the Clouds” coming to DVD this fall. FIT'S ANNUAL BLOCK PARTY IS BACK!
WIN BIG
This year we will be having a Far Out Festival filled with events, prizes, games, givaways, music and a fashion show that is reminiscent of the Groovy days of the Late 60's and Woodstock .
$100
poetry and short story contest submit entries now until may 15, 2010 go to student life room a 713 1-2 p original poetry must be typed and submitted in hard copy and on disk. must be saved in word as text (optional: quark for mac users). all submissions must be clearly labeled with name and telephone number. *amount above is awarded in gift certificates for each category.
C O N 2 0 1 0
Event Highlights: Jackie Tohn (as seen on American Idol season 8): will be performing Live! Fashion Show - 60's inspired designs will be showcased by students from all majors and specializations! Fun Foods- including Snow Cones, Popcorn, Cotton Candy, Tiki Bar And Many More!!!!!!!!! Giveaways-T-shirts and Tote Bags will be given to the first 750 students in attendance! Activities and Games- Airbrush Tattoos, Bounce House, Psychics, Caricatures, Tye dye T-shirts, Spin Art ...and Many More!!! ****This event is open to ALL FIT STUDENTS !!!, You Must bring College ID to be Admitted**** This event is being Hosted by RHCC, a division of FITSA and Residential Life .
OUTSIDE THE BLOCK
FASHION INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY
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Sex Trafficking: Modern Day Slavery Kara Lewis
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n March 18th, Restore NYC--a non-profit organization seeking a long-term solution to modern-day sex slavery--held a gala at the Angel Orensanz Foundation for the Arts in SoHo. The goal of the night? To raise $100,000 in order to open New York’s first long-term safe house for survivors of international sex-trafficking.
ing $9.5 billion a year human sex trafficking. “Sex trafficking is a modern-day form of slavery in which a commercial sex act is induced by force, fraud or coercion,” states the National Human Trafficking Resource Center on its website. Victims are often drawn into sex trafficking scandals with the promise of a job in another country, and in some cases, victims are sold into the trade by their own in our own families.
Candlelit chandeliers hung “Slavery exists from steal pipes projecting from the old Ansche Syna- backyard--from the peep “Slavery exists in our own backgogue’s ceiling. Heartthe peep booths in booths in midtown Manhattan yard--from wrenching statements midtown Manhattan to the masfrom survivors were made to the massage parlors in sage parlors in Chinatown and into centerpieces for the the brothels in Flushing. Sex Chinatown and the brothels in trafficking is thriving in our city, TK tables in the room. “It would be great to be and we must help out neighFlushing.” -Faith Huckel like a tree. A tree is stable bors, “ said Executive Director and peaceful, and does not have to go through pain Faith Huckel opening the night’s event. or suffering,” was one statement displayed by survivor “These women that we serve do not have a single Audrey Lee, one of the Restore’s 36 current clients. choice,” said Huckel who then drew emphasis on Lee is one of the many victims of the third largest criminal industry in the world, according to figures provided by the Central Intelligence Agency, generat-
the simple choices we are entitled to make every day, from the coffee we drink to the shoes we wear. Prior to the event an anonymous donor pledged to match
the donations raised if and only if Restore raised over $50,000 that night. Huckel shared this news with the audience and made the following final statement before the silent auction commenced: “This is your choice now to give back the freedom and identity [these women] once had.” The event was scheduled to conclude at 11 p.m. and by 10:15, $41,000 had been raised. Huckel rallyed up the audience pushing for that extra $9,000 needed in order to receive the promised matched contribution. By 10:30 p.m., Restore NYC reached their goal. Raising a total of $53,000 at the dinner and $106,000 with the annonymous donor, they made enough to open the first long-term safe house in New York. Restore NYC was founded in 2004 to provide medical services, case management and specialized legal services to internationally sex trafficked women in NYC. For those who are interested in getting involved, Restore NYC is always looking for volunteers for mentoring, recreational outings, blogging and more. If interested email: restorevolunteer@gmail.com
East Meets West: FIT Student Visits China Charlotte Wendel This past January, ITM major Charlotte Wendel traveled to China for two weeks with a group of 200 SUNY students as part of a SUNY Study Abroad program. The first half of the trip was spent in Beijing and second was spent in the province of Sichuan where the group was divided among different host schools. In 2008, an earthquake tore through the Sichuan. In response, SUNY Schools across the region welcomed students from a number of colleges located in Sichuan, providing them with free room and board for a semester. As a reciprocating gesture these schools invited SUNY students to stay with them for a week. Below are two diary entries, a day of Charlotte’s life in New York and a day in Mianyang, demonstrating the differences students face going to school in the West versus the East. New York:
Mianyang:
7.30AM - Ugh...alarm…go away…it won’t. Fine, I’ll get up. Get dressed. Eat cereal. Mustn’t forget to bring the paper I finished last night, which is the cause of my tiredness today.
7.30AM – It’s so weird…since we got to China I keep waking up before my alarm even goes off !
8.30 AM – Subway. Never breathe more than necessary at the 59th Street station if you want to keep your breakfast down. 9.30 AM – School-sit, take notes, ask questions. FIT is usually pretty relaxed. Sure, there’s certainly work to do and expectations to meet but professors are generally pretty reasonable. I appreciate the diversity at FIT. Being an international student myself I feel that interacting with students of all different nationalities adds to the learning experience. Have no doubt, there’s a lot of ethnocentricity among American professors and students, but as long as you are aware that people with different backgrounds have different perspectives and approach classes with some critical thinking, it’s OK. 5.30PM – Heading back home. Have to send out some emails once I get there. Book a new appointment with my Chinese tutor. God knows I need it! Can’t be bothered cooking tonight, I’ll pick up sushi on my way. That will save me some time so I can get some studying done. 12.30AM – Bedtime. Not sure where all my free time goes…Facebook and the Internet might have something to do with it.
We’ve been in Mianyang for two days now and it’s been non-stop action. Since we are part of a government-sponsored trip they’re really bringing out the worksshowing us only the best of the area, feeding us the best food, having us meet the best students, and of course staying at the nicest hotel. If you compare the accommodations we’ve been provided with versus what you read about in the U.S, pertaining to the Chinese government’s treatment of its own people, it’s a little conflicting at times. 9AM – Hotel lobby. We’re being picked up by Mr. Chen, our host group school’s international liaison. Very funny guy, probably the most real of all the official people we’ve met. He picks us up in the morning, shuttles us around to see student performances, does sightseeing, provides our meals and so on. His English is limited but extremely efficient! 12.30PM – Lunchtime. Spent the morning with a new group of students, this time the English Language Club. They’re so sweet, and eager to learn. They brought us all gifts, and are prepared with a trillion questions about the US and college life. It’s so hard to explain that I come from a school where gay guys are more than accepted, where students come from many different countries and choose what they want to study, and that most students do not live on campus but have their own apartments and jobs outside of school. It’s the exact opposite here. Dorming is mandatory, even for professors, and their entire life takes place on campus. It’s amazing to hear them talk about their lives compared to ours. 5.30PM – Heading back to the city center for dinner with the group after a visit at the region’s largest TV factory. I thought they’d let us see the actual factory but no, they took us to a fancy conference room and showed us a PowerPoint presentation. Like I’ve never seen that before, huh? Sometimes it gets so obvious that they’re sheltering us and only showing us what they want us to see. It bothers me, but at the same time I can’t be rude to my hosts. Overall the whole trip is amazing, but I can’t help but feel this little pinch of doubt for if what I’m seeing is real or not.
Charlotte in China. Photo courtesy of Charlotte Wendel.
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OUTSIDE THE BLOCK
2010
Outside Your Borough:
W27
THRIFT stores
New York City is really frickin’ big. Five boroughs and New Jersey are just a hop, skip, and jump away. Come on NYC, did you really have to strive to be one of the largest cities in the world? Here at W27, we know you want to see it all but have no idea where to start. That’s why we created the “Outside Your Borough” monthly feature. Each month, we will tackle a category of shopping, entertainment or food. Not only does New York have five awesome boroughs, they have some damn good thrift store shopping. So, for the second edition of the feature, we are featuring the best of the thrift stores. As promised, the Bronx is highlighted this month but we decided to forgo Staten Island and add Long Island instead.
Manhattan By Kevia Wright Location: No Relation Vintage 204 1st Ave between E 12th St. and E 13th St. New York, NY Directions: Take L train to the 1st Ave stop. Hours: Monday through Thursday, 1 p.m. - 8 p.m.; Friday, 1 p.m. - 9 p.m.; Saturday, Noon - 9 p.m., Sunday, Noon - 8 p.m. Phone: (212) 228-5201 Website: http://norelationvintage.com/
We all know that living in Manhattan isn’t cheap and with all other expenses to pay for- shopping within our budget can get complicated. However, with No Relation Vintage in the Lower East Side, thrifty shopping has been made as easy as stopping by the local H & M. Need a new spring jacket or a pair of leather
Long Island By Phoebe Licata Location: Perennial Clothing Inc. 590 Main St. Islip, NY 11751. Directions: Take the LIRR to the Islip stop on the Ronkonkoma line. It’s no longer than a 5-minute walk from the train station. Hours: Tuesday through Saturday 10am to 6pm. Phone: (631) 581-1808
Perennial Clothing Inc. feels like walking into your grandmother’s closet but with the new appreciation for sequined shirts and white keds. The ambiance of the store will instantly grab you. With Frank Sinatra songs playing in the background you’ll find the perfect vintages pieces to fill that void in your wardrobe. Specialties: The collection of handbags is monu-
Brooklyn By Tabitha Akins Location: Buffalo Exchange 504 Driggs Avenue, on the corner of N 9th St Williamsburg, Brooklyn Directions: Take the L train to the Bedford stop. Hours: Monday through Saturday, 11 a.m. – 8 p.m.; Sunday, 12 p.m. – 7 p.m. Phone: (718) 384-6901 Website: http://www.buffaloexchange.com
Buffalo Exchange is one of Williamsburg’s hidden gems. Packed full of vintage and brand name clothing at a savvy price, it’s a thriftster’s haven. Specialties: They have an incredible variety for both men and women of just about everything clothingwise, but the well organized denim and summer dresses are a must see!
Italian loafers? You’ll come out lookin’ transformed and with more cash in your pocket. Specialties: No Relation has a large variety of shoes and outerwear—leather jackets especially.
Sales Help: Sales help is pretty limited. You’re typical LES hipster sits at the counter more intensely focused on picking out the next song off his ipod than trying to be helpful.
Clothing: No Relation has everything—dresses, button downs, jean jackets, leather jackets, flannels, shorts, and the list goes on.
Price Range: Most clothing is inexpensively priced, in the $10-$15 range, but shoes and jackets tend to be more.
Accessories: Although No Relation has a limited amount of accessories, they hold a small collection of costume jewelry, 70’s style leather purses, and menswear hats.
Payment Methods: All forms accepted.
Rummage or relax- The airy vintage store has neatly organized racks of clothing hung by category as far as the eye can see.
After the Fact: Head over to Tokyo Joes and Buffalo Exchange, located on 11th Street between First and Second aves, to sell back your old digs and shop some more.
mental. Every color and size ranging from $15 to $100 surround the perimeter of the store.
Sales Help: The owner, Linda Varady, is the only full time employee at the Perennials Clothing Inc. The second you walk in she introduces herself and talks about her collection and how she’s come by the garments over the years.
Clothing: This vintage shop has a large selection of dresses and skirts, as well as unique garments that originate from the 50’s to the 70’s and everything in between. Accessories: Gold, silver, and wooden earrings, bracelets, rings, and necklaces are scattered throughout the shop. The authenticity of each piece exceed the quality of any costume jewelry.
Sell Backs- No Relation Vintage does not buy clothing from the public, all clothing comes from warehouses.
Price Range: T-shirts, skirts and light sweaters are no more than $10. Some leather bags tend to be a bit pricey, but with her constant sales and willingness to bargain, you’re bound to leave with your desired item at a resonable price.
Organization: The cleanliness and order is one of the reasons why shopping at Perennials’ is so enjoyable. All clothes are color coordinated and organized by type of garment, making looking for a specific item much easier.
Sell Backs: Clothing, bags and other accessories are always accepted.
Clothing: Check out the wall-long racks of incredible dresses, designer jeans and leather jackets.
designer jeans and dresses are slightly more but all in all you shouldn’t break the bank when shopping here.
Accessories: Whether you like vintage bangles, cowboy boots, or over-sized rings, or looking for that particular trendy accessory, they’ll have something for you.
Payment Methods: All forms accepted.
Organization: A very organized atmosphere and hipster music set the tone for the only digging you’ll be doing in the store: women’s shoes. Try to come earlier in the day for the least rummaged through presentation. Sales Help: The staff is very helpful and mostly a happy group. Just don’t ask them for your shoe’s match five minutes before they close. Price Range: Most things are sold for around $15,
After the fact: If you have any money left, walk across the street and spend your last few pennies at the Salvation Army.
Sell Back: The best part of it all- selling your stuff to buy more! Call before you leave to see what they are looking for, it varies depending on season and the store’s capacity. They give back either cash or a higher value for store credit. Whatever they don’t take you can leave with them and they will donate it to a local charity! After the Fact: If you’re not completely thrifted out by the time you leave Buffalo Exchange then head next door to Monk: Recycled Vintage at its finest. They have a much more selective variety but if its legit vintage you’re looking for they’ll have it.
OUTSIDE THE BLOCK
Queens By Veronica Heras Location: One of a Kind Thrift Shop 45-05 Queens Blvd. between 45th St. and 46th St. Sunnyside, NY 11104 Directions: Take the 7 train to the 46th St. stop. Hours: Monday through Sunday, 10 a.m. - 8 p.m. Phone: (718) 784-0666
It is small and it is crowded but its got you covered. The small store is packed with racks, bins, shelves and boxes of clothing and accessories for both men and women. Specialties: If you’re like me, an 80’s fashion slave
Bronx By Dorelle McPherson Location: UNIQUE Thrift 218 West 234th St. and Broadway Bronx, NY Directions: Take the 1 train to 238th St. stop. Hours: Monday through Saturday, 10 a.m. - 8 p.m.; Sunday, 11 a.m. - 6 p.m. Phone: (718) 548-1190 Website: www.uniquethriftstore.com
UNIQUE thrift is a hidden secret, clearly visible as the 1 train approaches 238th St. Tremendous finds are perfectly presented in a way that makes you forget you’re in a thrift store. It’s not your traditional search and grab mission; this store prides it self on letting the merchandise speak for itself.
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whose mother wasn’t very fashionable at that time, then you can definitely invade this closet. At One of a Kind shoulder pads are on basically every blazer.
stripped lime green and blue belt with studs, One of a Kind’s got it for you. Unfortunately there isn’t a large selection of shoes or handbags here.
Clothing: There aren’t many designer brands (keep in mind this is Queens), but there are quite a number of cocktail dresses from Kate Unger and Nicole Miller. For the guys, if you are in need of shirts and ties then this spot should be your first stop.
Price Range: The lack of designer items means it’s very cheap. I did not see anything for over $20.
Accessories: Who knew there are so many possibilities when it comes to belts? On a tight budget adding a cute or funky belt can instantly improve your wardrobe. If for some reason you’ve been looking for a
Specialties: Dresses are given special attention here. You’ll find both high end and low end brands in the collection. Clothing: Racks and racks of jeans, slacks, sweaters, swimwear, and every other clothing category you can imagine fill the perimeter of the store. Accessories: Boots, bracelets, belts, watches, scarves, wallets, and more all displayed in an easy to see department store style layout. There are rows upon rows of shoes in every aisle- some look new and some appear to be gently worn. Rummage or Relax- The store is very open and organized, no rummaging needed. Sales Help: The sales help are in plain sight all
Sell Backs: There are no sell backs, the store is strictly donations. After the Fact: Thrift stores in Queens are limited, so there isn’t another in the area. Instead eat a delicious pastry or empanada and drink a good strong cup of Colombian coffee at El Buen Sabo, the Spanish bakery next door.
around the store. Price Range: The prices widely vary based on brand name and clothing condition. Dresses can range from $2.99-$19.00. But all and all, if your not searching for Dolce and Gabbana, you won’t leave UNIQUE with a large dent in your wallet. Payment Methods accepted: All forms of payment accepted. Sell Backs- All clothing is donated. After the Fact: Head over to S&S Cheesecake and let your taste buds discover the best cheesecake in the city. Located on 222 W. 238th St, between, Bailey Ave and Broadway, this whole in the wall cheesecake shop is Zagat’s #1 rated cheesecake in New York.
Top Three: Queens; MANHATTAN; LONG ISLAND Bottom Two: BRONX; BROOKLYN Photo courtesy of each section’s author
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OUTSIDE THE BLOCK
2010
W27
Month in Review: Power to the People Alexander Cavaluzzo From tiny steps in the right direction to considerable leaps forward, the American people have begun to see change in their country, and, in some cases, participated in it. In the month of March, we’ve seen considerable progress made on domestic matters. Town Hall Meeting On March 8th, 2010, New York Governor David Paterson held a Town Hall meeting in his home borough of Brooklyn to address the proposed state budget. He started off waxing poetically on our current fiscal problems, continuing the rhetoric of oft-demanded but rarely accomplished job creation and a move towards clean energy. But as soon as the questions began, he abandoned the political artifice and answered them to the best of his ability. While the tone of the town hall meeting evaded any and all acknowledgment of the recent scandals that have befallen Governor Paterson, he was completely forthright in his response to pressing queries. From the many groups represented at the meeting, ranging from the homeless, to educators, to the AARP, true opposition to the budget cuts was addressed. Governor Paterson, apologetic, stated again and again that the State of New York simply does not have enough money. No double-talk or equivocations, just the pure lamentation over the Empire State’s current financial crisis. One woman, the proprietor of a delicatessen in Brooklyn, expressed concern over the potential sugar tax proposed by Paterson, fearing it would be “regressive.” The 18% tax would be applied to all sodas and drinks containing less than 70% fruit juice. While opponents of the tax voice their concern, Paterson is steadfast in his belief that this will combat the rising obesity problem in New York. He stated that the number of people being treated for type I and II diabetes and other obesity-related ailments is quickly rising. While Governor Paterson will see his term end come November, he seems simultaneously remorseful of the hardships this new budget will cause New York citizens, and resolved to effect change for the better.
To Your Health This month saw one of Obama’s major campaign promises come to fruition. With 219 votes, the House passed an historic reform for American healthcare. Now, over 30 million previously uninsured Americans will have access to quality healthcare. Starting in 2014, there will be a number of stipulations put into effect under this reform act. For example, uninsured citizens will be required to buy insurance or face a penalty of around $2,000. One notably positive aspect of the healthcare reform is that now no one can be denied insurance because of preexisting conditions. Previously, people with conditions ranging from asthma to cancer could be denied coverage, but the bill now ensures that by 2014, insurance will be available to all. (Until then, such patients will only have access to insurance through high-risk programs while paying higher premiums.) In addition to this patients’ rights initiative, no insurance company will be able to cancel the plan of someone who becomes sick, as was previously the case. Abortion, unsurprisingly, turned out to be the most contentious issue in the bill. While initial opposition was vocalized by Republicans and anti-choice Democrats (Bart Stupak being the most notable), many of the latter compromised to support the bill in the end. Under this health care reform, no federal dollars will be used to fund abortions. While the bill that passed in November included the infamous Stupak-Pitts amendment, which made it difficult for even private insurers to offer abortion coverage for women, the language in the bill’s current incarnation makes it clear that even insurance provided by state exchanges will allow coverage pending a special premium payment. Among the many supporters, however, the detractors were quite vocal on their disapproval of the bill. Without a single Republican backing the bill, almost every congressperson on the Right condemned the reforms for a variety of reasons, from the ambiguous language on abortion to the supposed threat of socialism in the United States. Many protestors brandished signs
with slogans saying, “Kill the Bill” and “Doctors, Not Dictators.” In spite of the opposition, this reformation will place President Barack Obama among the likes of progressives Franklin Delano Roosevelt and Lyndon B. Johnson, securing his place in US history. Blood is Thicker than Politics On March 4, 2010 Senator John Kerry of Massachusetts and a group of 18 colleagues urged the Food and Drug Administration to lift a nearly 27-year-old mandate that forbids gay men from donating blood. In an open letter to FDA Commissioner Margaret Hamburg, they condemned the ban as “outdated” and medically and scientifically unsound. In the letter, it was also pointed out that the FDA’s current policies are rife with heterosexist double standards. For instance, the only stipulation for heterosexual men and women who have participated in unsafe sex practices that may lead to HIV infection is a one-year deferral period, not a lifetime ban. This policy surfaced back in the 1980’s, during the height of the hysteria brought on by the AIDS pandemic. Since the syndrome was afflicting mainly homosexual men (initial names for the disease included Gay-Related Immune Deficiency [GRID]), and there had already been infections caused from transfusions, the FDA forbade gay men and intravenous drug users from donating blood. While they repudiate any discrimination from this stance, saying their “deferral policy is based on the documented increased risk of certain transfusion transmissible infections…associated with male-to-male sex…” the ban fails to take into account not only the rise of safer sex practices among homosexual men, but the stricter, more accurate screening processes donated blood currently goes through. Despite the initial resistance the FDA gave to the letter, stating their policy was “based on current science and data,” they said they would reexamine the ban in June in a statement offered on March 12, of this year.
ELLEvated or ill-Delegated? FIT SPEAKS The following is an opinion piece submitted by an FIT student. These views belong to said student and do not represent the views and beliefs of the paper as a whole.
U
nfair, upsetting, and horrible- just a few of the words being uttered by the overwhelming crowd huddled around the Katie Murphy Amphitheatre on April 5, 2010. The crowd had gathered in anticipation of the WFIT event, ELLEvated, that would be taking place inside at 8pm. A turnout of well over three hundred people had accumulated which, under normal circumstances, should have meant the event was a huge success. Though with only two hundred and seventy-seven seats available, it seemed more than half of this crowd was wasting their time – myself included. The events’ sponsors, WFIT, issued invitations to all FIT students indicating that if they wanted to attend the event, they would have to send an RSVP email back to the sender. What WFIT did not indicate was that an RSVP (even after a confirmation email was sent to the ‘attendee’) did not guarantee entrance and for that, all hell broke loose. While the WFIT members did send out fair warning to “come early,” they clearly did not take into account the possible turnout. The Fashion Institute of Technology houses over two thousand students, many of which read ELLE magazine! ELLE is practically one our textbooks – why would anyone want to pass up an opportunity to see its creators? Excited students were wrapped around the D build-
ing and down 28th street from as early as 6:00pm only to be turned away by security minutes before the event started. Time and heartbreak could have been easily prevented if WFIT had done some simple counting. Simply put, the first 277 respondents to the ELLEvated invitation should have received confirmation that they would indeed have seats at the event; all other respondents should have received an email indicating that all seats were full and that they could not attend.
Perhaps the only asset the WFIT team had during this debacle was Deborah Payton-Jones. Jones emerged from the packed amphitheatre to issue all of us on line a heartfelt apology as well as the empathy we so rightly deserved after getting shut down by so many others. Jones was incredibly sweet and encouraged us to have another event, like this, only not as poorly planned. While her advice wasn’t the justice we wanted, it helped make us realize how we can be “the change we want to see” in this school – cheesy, but comforting.
All RSVPs for this event were done electronically meaning that the email address receiving the names could have been used to compile a checklist. This checklist could have been given to the security guards at the front and the event would have been much more organized. Chaos would not have broken out and girls would not have ended up crying.
Jones’ kindness only continued when she was able to take the remaining ten of us left, after the crestfallen crowds had dispersed, into the back of the amphitheatre to stand and watch the last twenty minutes of the event we so desired to see. The panel of editors was everything we’d hoped it was and it made it hurt more, as I stood squinting from the back, that I hadn’t gotten to hear all of their wisdom.
What was worse was what happened after the doors for the event were closed. Hundreds of girls were left wondering what happened and what they should do. “This is ridiculous, I want to speak to the supervisor of this event!” said a harried blonde to a security guard. Unfortunately for the blonde, no supervisor would show up because the only person that could have helped our cause walked by the crowd and told security to “Get rid of them.” So much for FIT encouraging their students to get involved.
It is with high hopes that in the future, WFIT will be better prepared when holding such high profile events and perhaps stick to their usual broadcasts. For now, I will continue to read ELLE because they are not to be blamed here but I know that I am not the only one who will forever look at the masthead and be reminded of the opportunity we unfortunately missed. -Jenna Amatulli
OPINION
FASHION INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY
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Patrick Greene Jessica Samakow Heather Viggiani
“’Pull down in case of emergency’ Not if it’s tethered to the ceiling...”
“It’s good to know that going to FIT affords me very ‘speical’ deals.”
“I can only imagine what it took to shut down a place where next-to-naked women served you alcohol and free wifi was provided...”
ADVICE COLUMN Dear Jess, I started dating this guy and last weekend we had our first “sleepover.” When I was in the bathroom I opened his cabinets to snoop around a little. Everything was pretty regular….except for a tube of L’Oreal cover up. Does this mean he’s sneaking around with another girl? Does HE wear it??? I can’t tell him I looked! What do I do?? -Cant Makeup my Mind.
Dear Cant Makeup my MindTake a deep breath….your boy isn’t a cheater. If there were some other girl, there would be other clues…a hair product, some bobby pins, whatever… she wouldn’t just leave one tube of concealer. Guys sometimes have girly items stowed away for the
strangest reasons. My friend once slept at a guy’s house and needed a tampon unexpectedly. Luckily, he had one…you know… for his nose bleeds. True story. I’d love to tell you that your guy maybe found alternative uses for the cover up, but let’s face it, it can only be used for one thing. Your new boy-toy isn’t so shiny on his own, he’s wearing it. Before you flip out and beat yourself up over not realizing that he MUST be gay (or, too metro), think about it from his point of view. Guys wearing makeup may not be “normal,” but why isn’t it? As girls, we get to hide all of our imperfections and can be more confident because of the magic of makeup. Guys have flaws too, so why should they have to expose themselves if we don’t? You may be running for the hills, but imagine if a guy were to dump you unless you showed him that massive zit on your chin. If he can do something to better his appearance, then, why not? To put your mind at ease, consider this: maybe putting a dab of makeup
on makes him even more manly. Deciding to fight the norm and go for it anyways means he’s comfortable with his sexuality. Most guys probably wish they could use coverup from time to time but wouldn’t dare because they are afraid their friends would find out and torture them. Your Ken doll has no such fear; you will probably feel better about it if you talk to him. Bring it up in casual conversation--don’t act like you have a problem with it. Next time you’re in the bathroom call out to him, “HEY! I have a cut on my chin, can I borrow some of this?”as if it’s totally normal. Your acceptance will allow him to open up to you so you won’t have to keep wondering who the man behind the mask really is. Plus, it could be his sister’s! If not, just be happy it’s L’Oreal and not CoverGirl. Until next time, Jess
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APR
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W27
Comic work by Siva-Jack Sernvongsat
“My secret food obsession is...” “If ranch dressing were a man, I’d want to have sex with it and have all of its babies.” -Heather Viggiani “Tim Tams! Finally the US imported them here from Australia. They’re Hugh Jackman’s favorite cookie. Enough said.” -Kevia Wright “A-1 Steak Sauce. I put it on everything; steak, mashed potatoes and Chips Ahoy! included.” -Patrick Greene “I love dried squid!! Being half-Asian, I grew up eating it like a snack (similar to chips) and it’s embarrassing because it smells when you eat it...so I have to eat it alone or at home.” -Camilla Mayer “Maybe this isn’t so appropriate so soon after Easter but...rabbit meat!” -Qingyun Zhang “After a few tall boys of Coors Original, egg and cheese sandwiches tend to call my name.” -Kara Lewis Illustrated by William Chung for W27.
FASHION INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY
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STyle On 27 It’s All in the Details: Though a new style season is upon us, the student wallet doesn’t always allow for new style. But that doesn’t stop FIT students from sprucing up last spring’s wardrobe with new on-trend accessories. It seems minimalistic garments are almost always accompanied by the latest shoe, bag or belt or paired with the hottest eyewear, brocade or fedora. Suspenders, scarves, and even the sole earring were also arsenal for the FITers that Roxy Kirshenbaum found this month in the fight to make their basics anything but.
Illustrated by Esqueleto Rojo for W27.
D-Building
W27 encourages any and all Art and Design students to submit their comics, cartoons, and visual narratives for the D-Building page. Think of it as your monthly showcase. Email High-Res TIFF format artwork to W27newspaper@gmail.com with the subject “D-Building Submission.”
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