Good Eats

GOOD EATS: LA DOLCE VITA GELATO & PASTRY

‘Fluffier Than Ice Cream’

By Rick Allen • Photos By John Jernigan

In these challenging times, Ocala’s Good Life is still scouring the area for delightful culinary diversions. How about some authentic Italian gelato and New York-style pastries to take your mind off of the pandemic for a few delicious moments?

In countless episodes of Rick Steves’ journeys through Europe, the PBS travel guru somehow manages to find a gelato shop in nearly every town he visits. One might think it’s his favorite dessert. It’s no surprise. With a history extending back to the 1600s, gelato is exactly like ice cream, only different. It’s creamier, smoother, and silkier, containing more milk and less cream, according to foodnetwork. com, and has 30 percent less fat than traditional ice cream.

“It’s fluffier than ice cream,” explains Violet Merdita. She and her husband, Gjon (pronounced “Jon”), opened Marion County’s only artisan gelato shop, La Dolce Vita Gelato & Pastry, last June. Finally, we don’t have to go to Europe for European-style gelato made fresh every day.

“We were surprised to find Ocala didn’t have gelato,” Violet says. Actually, it’s getting so we don’t have to go abroad for a gelato. The European treat is gaining popularity on this side of the Atlantic. Food Network notes that American sales hit an estimated $214 million in 2014, up $11 million from 2009. Gelato shops are opening everywhere. In 2016, it was about five percent of the $14.3 billion U.S. ice cream market.

Another interesting point is that gelato is served 10 to 15 degrees warmer than ice cream, according to the website for Gelato-Go, a Miamibased chain of gelato outlets.

“The cold numbs your tongue so you don’t taste as much of the sugary sweetness in ice cream,” the website says. “Because gelato is served warmer, you also get more of the flavor’s intensity.”

Gjon is the gelato artist here. A native of Albania, he learned the craft in Germany working at his cousin’s gelateria in Cologne. “Gelato was my life, day and night, for seven years,” he says.

On an average day, he’ll create 14 flavors ranging from the traditional stracciatella (a light vanilla laced with shavings of fine chocolate) and amerana (a refreshing sour cherry) to a tiramisu flavor or an irresistible melon made from fresh cantaloupe. Gjon says he varies the flavors to match the seasons. The shop also offers a variety of espresso and coffee drinks, ground from whole beans and brewed as you watch.

Another big part of the business is the pastries, Violet’s specialty. “I was born and raised in New York,” she says, where her family “has had restaurants all my life.”

Though her own heritage also is Albanian, she specializes in cheesecakes and Italian-style pastries: cannolis, sfogliatelle, lobster tails.

“I’m from New York,” she says. “I have to have my bagels.”

The couple admits it was scary opening a small specialty shop in the middle of a pandemic.

“We get up in the morning and pray all will go well,” Violet says. “But we’re alive and afloat. Our love will keep it going.”

WHERE: La Dolce Vita is nestled in the “U” of Jasmine Square, “a few doors down from the DMV” it says on their business card.

WHY GO: No question, for the gelato. If you’ve never tried it, you owe it to yourself to sample at least once. And if you’re like most of their patrons, you’ll be back.

BEST TIME TO GO: “Between 11am and 9pm,” quips Gjon. Those, of course, are the shop’s open hours on Friday and Saturday. Violet agrees, but clarifies: “It depends on what you want. If you want a bagel, mornings or between 11am and 3pm.” These are New York bagels, meaning they are water boiled and tend to harden as the day progresses.

Gelato is available most any time, and there’s always something yummy in the pastry case. And there’s rarely a crowd.

INSIDER: The panna cotta, a cooked cream thickened with sugar and gelatin and served with a strawberry or mixed berry topping is a great option for something light with coffee after dinner. “It’s the Italian flan,” Violet says. Gjon’s item to impress: the affogato, a portion of gelato with a shot of espresso poured over it.

FRIENDLY STAFF: It’s just the two of them all day, every day, except Sunday. Yet neither is too busy to chat or answer any question about any item there.

FEEL THE LOVE: In just a short time, Violet and Gjon have developed a group of devoted followers. On Facebook, for instance, one fan writes: “We L-O-V-E your shop! It is how we treat ourselves at the end of a hard week. Love the gelato, the espresso. Gjon and Violet, you guys rock!” Other online admirers are just as effusive.

FINAL WORD: This is a great spot for a light dessert and coffee after dinner. I certainly expect to take it in more often.

WANT TO KNOW MORE?

La Dolce Vita is open 11am-8pm Monday-Thursday and 11am-9pm Friday-Saturday. Call 857-8080 or visit Facebook and/or Instagram for more information. The address is 6146 Southwest SR 200.