Tony's Sushi

By Rick Allen • Photos By John Jernigan

For nearly 20 years now, Tony’s Sushi has been the premier destination for sushi in Ocala— whether you prefer it traditional or innovative.

I still recall the day I met Tony Li and his wife, Jane. They’d just taken over the closed Toyko Steakhouse in Colours Plaza, and I was there to find out about these newcomers to Ocala’s culinary landscape.

What an afternoon! As we talked about their background and plans for the future, plate after plate of delightful creations came over the sushi case. I didn’t need to eat supper that evening. But we’re not here today to talk about sushi. Rather, our topic is what makes Tony’s Sushi Japanese Steakhouse a Japanese steakhouse—the teppanyaki tables.

For many, this is the only reason to visit Tony’s. The flashing knives, the flaming onion volcano, the corny jokes, the brimming plates, half of which invariably go home for later. There are few places where a whole family can sit around a table and watch as dinner is prepared before their eyes. Teppan tables are especially popular for holidays, birthdays, graduations, or other special occasions. And Tony welcomes that.

Teppan Table

“A lot of people like it,” he says. “It’s not only for the adults, but it’s a lot of fun for the kids. The kids love catching the zucchini and broccoli.” These are masterly pitched by the chef to awaiting open mouths. To help mark a child’s birthday, with parental permission, the birthday child is invited to join the chef at the grill, don a special chef’s toque and attempt to crack an egg mid-air with the spatula, a special thrill, we learned, when one of our kids turned seven. “I see a lot of kids, well they were kids, all grown up, some with kids of their own,” Tony says. “It feels good to see so many grown up.”

Tony’s features nine teppan tables. There’s at least one of his five teppan chefs on duty any time the eatery is open. They’re in addition to five sushi chefs and five prep chefs back in the kitchen. "They come already trained," he adds, "but I work with them to do my style."

When reminded his place is approaching its 20th anniversary, Tony shook his head. “Whew!” he replies. “Time flies.” Well, that’s what they say when you’re having fun. And Tony obviously still is.

WHERE: Tony’s Sushi Japanese Steakhouse is at 3405 Southwest College Road (SR 200) in the Colours Plaza.

WHY GO: I often wonder about this section. Why does anyone go to any restaurant? Typically, it’s for the cuisine or to recapture a previous experience. If a place can draw you in with the same experience time and again, well why wouldn’t you go?

And Tony’s is just such a place. I’ve lost track of how many times over the decades my family and I have walked through the doors to mark a special event or just for sushi. And we probably will do so as many times in the years to come. Tony’s is just that special to us.

BEST TIME TO GO: If your idea of a best time is crowd avoidance, then weekday mid-afternoons are for you. When I met Tony at 2:30pm a few weeks ago, all the teppan tables were silent. Yet even at that hour, there’s a teppan chef on duty, ready to warm up his spatula and cheesy jokes.

Holidays, weekends, and evenings of any day ending in “y” you’re likely to encounter a wait if you just walk in. Fortunately, Tony’s takes advance reservations. And it’s a good idea to do so, especially if you have a larger party.

YOU’LL BE IMPRESSED BY: If you’ve never been to a Japanese steakhouse such as Benihana’s or Kobe, or Tony’s, the entirety of the experience itself is likely to impress. The banging dance of the spatula, the groaner puns, the woosh of a fireball just inches away. Heck, I still remember my first outing in Orlando more than 35 years ago.

YOU MUST TRY: The creamy white sauce served with the meal. With so many wonderful items on the menu, I focus on that? Absolutely, because there are so many wonderful things to choose from and because it’s such a great complement to the chicken and steak, though it’s often suggested for the shrimp and scallops.

Tony explained how it was made— sort of. He learned its secret during his training in Japan. “My teacher made some and let me taste it,” he says. “Then he gave me the list of everything in it, but not the proportions.” It was up to the student to match the exact flavor of the master’s. Tony recommends trying one of the combination options “to experience the variety of tastes.”

This is just one of the many sushi rolls available.

FRIENDLY STAFF: In all of my visits to Tony's, I have never encountered anyone on the wait staff who shouldn’t be there. Tony interviews and selects each staffer himself to ensure they fit in.

“We’re family here,” he says.

INSIDER: If someone in your party is celebrating a birthday, let your server know. Of course the staff will come over to sing while the birthday boy or girl gets to wear the tackiest birthday hat ever, guaranteed to embarrass.

FINAL WORD: Obviously it’s sushi, and obviously I couldn’t resist. The sushi menu is extensive, but it’s the “off-the-menu” specialties Tony stays up at night perfecting. Simply ask, “Make something just for me.” Odds are you’ll be delighted with what comes to your table.

“There are lots of new things coming to the sushi side pretty soon,” Tony says. Well, it wouldn’t be the Tony’s I know if there wasn’t. By the way, you can order sushi items at the teppan tables. Just sayin’...

WANT TO KNOW MORE?

(352) 237-3151 www.tonysushiocala.com