6 minute read
ESCAPE\u2014LITTLE ST. SIMONS ISLAND
from May/Jun 2019
By Debi Lander
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Though less than 200 miles from Ocala, a trip to Little St. Simons Island feels far removed and exotic, like being dropped into a fairyland forest.
To get to the least-visited of Georgia’s Golden Isles, drive north on I-95. Cross over the stunning, cable-suspended Sidney Lanier Bridge to the larger St. Simons Island and continue to the gateway at the northern end, the Hampton River Marina. Then, hop on the private ferry where the boat scurries across the Marshes of Glynn to Little St. Simons Island, a mere 10- to 15-minute ride, depending on tides.
Staff members warmly greet you as you step up the embankment covered in oyster shells and native grasses. Most likely, a noticeable breeze will be blowing through dozens of giant live oaks draped with Spanish moss. You can’t help but feel the caress of Mother Nature as you enter this secluded world.
Known for its privacy, The Lodge on Little St. Simons is the only lodging choice on this 11,000-acre preserve. For that matter, the few standing structures are the only buildings on the island. The pristine retreat hosts those interested in nature and conservation, rather like a posh summer camp with adult drinks and gourmet meals. The rustic-looking Hunting Lodge dates back to 1917 and works as the heart and soul of the resort. The renovated building includes a gathering and game room, two dining rooms, a little museum, a small gift shop, and the office. Familystyle meals are embraced and, weather permitting, al fresco dining is enjoyed in the picnic area beneath the tree canopy.
Each evening before dinner, attend a delightful-but-casual social hour with wine, beer, and hors-d’oeuvres. Or mix your own cocktail using the honor system. Tradition calls for Friday evening oyster roasts (when local oysters are available). Here, guests mingle and recount the day’s adventures.
With a maximum of 32 overnight guests, staff members are quick to remember your name and needs. Your luggage will appear in one of 16 guest rooms within cottages of varying size. The Tom House, a one-bedroom cabin, is popular with couples and honeymooners. The Michael Cottage includes two bedrooms (one with queen bed, one with twin beds), two bathrooms, and a rear porch with an outdoor shower.
The Helen House, a 1928 structure with tabby or oyster-shell masonry, contains period furnishings and three bedrooms. The common areas include a living room with fireplace, kitchen, screen porch, and courtyard, a perfect retreat for couples with children or family groups.
I couldn’t help but notice the bright twinkling of stars, thanks to a lack of light pollution. It was a fitting goodnight kiss.
The more modern River Lodge and Cedar House sit at the river’s edge, just a short stroll from the main compound. Both offer four spacious bedrooms, each with a private bathroom and sliding doors that open onto wrap-around decks with marsh and river views. At the center are shared great rooms with a tabby fireplace, wet bar and fridge. The large screen porch comes with a daybed and rocking chairs. Never fear, there’s plenty of reading material and games should the weather turn. One of my favorite things about staying in the River Lodge was basking in the vibrant Kodachrome-colored sunsets off the patio. Nature’s treat.
You’ll also discover a large saltwater swimming pool, a well-tended garden where fruits and vegetables are grown for the kitchen, and the old barn now used as a general meeting room for presentations. But the main attraction remains the property’s lush, untamed wilderness starring vibrant maritime forests, flourishing coastal marshlands, and seven miles of sandy beach.
Naturally, stays are all-inclusive, including three gourmet meals each day, naturalist-led outings such as bird watching (over 330 species of birds have been spotted), beachcombing, and boat excursions, plus all the bug spray and sunscreen you need. Some guests choose to go off on their own for kayaking, fishing (chef will cook your catch), and bicycling on 20 miles of trails. The island’s wide-open sandy beach stays practically empty. In fact, you may have it all to yourself. Little wonder guests return year after year.
A Little History
The barrier island has remained mostly untouched by humans since the first owners, brothers James and John Graham, registered a royal grant for the land in 1773. Luckily for us, it remains so. In1912, Philip Berolzheimer, owner of the Eagle Pencil Company, bought the island. He intended to cut the timber, but the twisted red cedar trees were too bent by ocean winds and storms to make into pencils. He kept the island as a retreat and his family owned it until 2003.
After visiting over many years, passionate conservationists Hank and Wendy Paulson purchased the island in 2003. The Paulsons wanted it to stay au naturel so, in 2015, they donated a conservation easement to The Nature Conservancy. Now the entire island is protected from future development.
A Typical Day
So what’s it like to spend a few days? The answer is simply heavenly. Sunrise proved glorious. I stood in awe watching the glowing ball of light rise over the lonely beach. However, those who prefer to sleep in will be comfortable knowing breakfast is served until 10am. The bountiful meal will keep you going through your morning excursions.
I climbed up to the benches on the back of an open-air pickup truck and explored the maritime forest with the naturalist. The vehicle bounced along the unpaved road, stopping at many interesting spots, while the naturalist explained the flora and fauna and tales about the critters.
Talk about 50 shades of green! The forest presented itself like a magician revealing hidden objects only to an ever-observant eye. We also visited bird blinds for viewing waterfowl and higher platforms to overlook the scenic marshy landscape. Naturally, a few gators make this paradise home.
After lunch, I combed the sandy, shell-strewn shores. On another day, I observed eagles, herons, egrets, wood storks, pelicans, and hawks soaring along the shoreline. Dolphins frolicked in the water and we passed a few fishermen. Loggerhead turtles nest here, but my visit didn’t coincide with the seasonal event.
I squandered my late afternoon with a short nap before happy hour and a Low Country-themed dinner. The naturalists offer evening programs, or you can just continue dinner conversations over a nightcap. While walking back to my bedroom, I couldn’t help but notice the bright twinkling of stars, thanks to a lack of light pollution. A fitting goodnight kiss.
An escape to this nearby-yetremote, nature-centric isle will undoubtedly make you more ecoaware. It will also bestow relaxing and rewarding memories without the hassle of a plane trip. Little St. Simons is indeed a special place.
Tips To Enjoy Your Stay
• If overnight accommodations don’t fit your budget, you can still visit Little St. Simons on a day trip. The boat ride, morning and afternoon activities with a naturalist, and a family-style lunch are included. Assist on one of three beach/marine clean-up weekends and get one night free.
• Wi-Fi is spotty but available.
• Children over the age of six are welcome year-round. Younger children accepted from Memorial Day through Labor Day, but recommend they be at least 3 years of age.
• No pets.
• I suggest booking any season except summer to avoid the mosquitoes.
WANT TO KNOW MORE? www.littlestsimonsisland.com