Ivy on the Square

Filet mignon with sautéed mushrooms

Photos by Marci Sandler

By Rick Allen

For the last quartercentury, the Ivy House-first just in Williston and later Ocala as well-has been the go-to destination for genuine genteel Southern dining.

As the story goes, Mimi Hale, at the urging of friends, in 1993 opened a restaurant in the stately 1912 Williston home that once had been the residence of a town founder. Folks from Ocala, Gainesville, and points beyond readily made the drive to Williston for an unparalleled dining experience.

The Ivy House came to Ocala in 2012, taking up residence in the Victorian-era Teague manse on east Silver Springs Boulevard that once housed the 1890 House and, later, Loring and Marge Felix’s beloved Felix’s The Place to Dine.

But as the year 2017 neared its end, the House no longer felt like home, explains Waica Micheletti, one of Mimi’s daughters who owns and operates the Ocala Ivy with her sister, Evelyn Nussel.

“We were looking to grow in a different direction,” Waica says, “with a different vibe, different atmosphere.”

About the same time, the spot at the corner of Magnolia and Fort King across from the Marion Theatre came open. It was one of the brick buildings built in the wake of the 1883 Thanksgiving Fire that through the decades had been an appliance store and optical store; the past 20 years or so it’s mainly been a bar.

Nick & Christina Bruno

But it was just what Waica was seeking.

They closed the house on Silver Springs that Christmas Eve. And a few weeks later,with the help of a development grant from the city, opened the renovated “1920s Speakeasy”—some say “vintage industrial”—Ivy on the Square. “I did the decorating myself,” Waica offers. Why the name change? “Well, she replies, “it’s not really a house.”

What the name modification does, though, is tie the restaurant into the identity and ambiance of the Downtown Square. But never fear—it might have a different look and feel, but this is The Ivy House.

Ivy on the Square is often ranked by Florida Trend among its “500 Best Restaurants in Florida.”

Pecan encrusted salmon

WHERE: As mentioned above, Ivy on the Square is at 53 South Magnolia at the corner of Fort King Street. Just look for the outdoor dining just outside the front door.

WHY GO: Ivy on the Square is one of few eateries specializing in a cuisine, lightly fried and always tasty, that harkens back to a gentler day in the Sunshine State. It’s often ranked by Florida Trend among its “500 Best Restaurants in Florida.” There’s really no other place hereabouts I know of that’s comparable.

BEST TIME TO GO: To get right in, go when Ivy first opens the doors at 11am or later in mid-afternoon. My wife and I went on a Saturday just before 5pm and were seated immediately. As we dined we watched the eatery grow progressively more crowded.

YOU’LL BE IMPRESSED BY: Besides the baked crispy chicken or fried shrimp, probably the French onion soup. Most places it’s far too salty; this broth is savory, mild and, most importantly, seasoned just right.

YOU MUST TRY: No question, the house specialties: the crispy baked chicken and the Southern fried shrimp. These are family recipes going back to before Mama Mimi opened the original Ivy House, when the whole family (and half the community) would show up for Sunday-after-church dinner. I’d also add the fried green tomatoes—ironically, my native- Floridian wife had never eaten them before and wondered how she’d missed them all these years—and the coffee mocha crème brulee, a new addition to the dessert lineup.

FRIENDLY STAFF: Our server, Katie, was superb—there when we needed her, unobtrusive when we didn’t. Most of the Ivy staff has been with the restaurant long term, says Waica, adding that one kitchen staffer has been with Ivy House since the beginning in Williston. “This is family,” she says. “We treat our customers like family.”

INSIDER: Ivy on the Square does not take reservations, except for large parties, but it does offer call-ahead seating. “Just call about an hour before,” Waica says. Your number is entered into their system. Then come downtown, park, and maybe wander the Ivy on the Square Boutique across the street. When your table is nearly ready, you’ll be notified by phone.

Also new here is a gluten-free menu, full spirits, and a coffee bar. “The Bee’s Knees mojito [with coconut rum, lime, blueberries, mint, and a splash of ginger ale],” Waica reveals, “is one of our most popular drinks.”

THE FINAL WORD: Probably the biggest complaint Waica and her sister receive is about parking because this site does not have its own lot. There are hundreds of street spots (meters enforced daytime Monday-Friday), but there’s also downtown valet parking at the square a block away and the free city parking garage only two blocks away.

WANT TO KNOW MORE?

53 S. Magnolia Avenue (352) 622-5550 www.ivyhousefl.com