...for discerning weeders A SALTY TOPIC
INSIDE THIS ISSUE Peanut Butter Challenge Events
2 3-4
Deceptive Name
5
Weed Control
6
Book Review
7
Air Potato
8
Wildlife Happenings
8
Updates and Info
9
All A-Buzz
10
Contest
11
Birthday Greetings
11
Last Word
12
HAVE YOU LOGGED ON TO VMS LATELY? DON’T FORGET TO KEEP YOUR HOURS UP TO DATE!
Epsom salts for the bath for your tired, achy body after a gardening session: check. Epsom salts to clean your tile grout: check. Epsom salts for soaking your sore feet: check. But Epsom salts for your garden? Is that a sound practice? Well, it depends on who you ask. There is not a lot of actual research on this subject (more on that below) but there is an awful lot of anecdotal evidence/recommendations/testimony. So what are Epsom salts? How could they benefit your plants? How to use them specifically? Epsom salts are a naturally occurring inorganic salt (chemical compound) containing magnesium, sulfur and oxygen, with the formula MgSO4. Epsom salts are named for a bitter saline spring located in the town of Epsom in Surrey, England. The spring occurs where the porous chalk of the North Downs meets non-porous London clay. Town residents discovered early on that the spring water tasted nasty. This discovery is believed to have occurred during the 17th century. Although drinking the water was not a good experience, Epsom residents soon found many other uses for their icky water and a legend was born. The town acquired the 17th century version of being a spa/resort attraction to travelers who found the water to have many soothing properties. At some point it was also discovered that the magnesium and sulfate contained in Epsom salts were two elements crucial to plant growth. While sulfur is almost never lacking in the soil, thanks in part to synthetic fertilizers and acid rain, magnesium can become scarce in soil, usually because of erosion or depletion of the topsoil or a pH imbalance. Depletion via leaching is particularly common in very sandy soils, in areas that receive torrential rainfall (hmmm, sounds familiar….). The general role that magnesium plays in plant growth is in strengthening plant cell walls, allowing the plant to take in the nutrients it needs. It also aids in seed germination, photosynthesis and in the formation of fruits and seeds. Some plants, such as lettuce and spinach, are not bothered much by a lack of magnesium while some, such as tomatoes, can suffer substantially in their fruit production as a result of magnesium deficiency. In fact, tomatoes are one of the three garden plants for which Epsom
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by K. Harper salts are most often recommended, the others being peppers and roses. Gardeners may know that tomatoes and peppers both belong to the Solanaceae or nightshade family while roses are of the Rosaceae family. These plant families are noted for having heavy nutritional needs which will not surprise you if you’ve grown any or all of them! It logically follows that a magnesium deficiency would be detrimental to all three. So, if some of your plants aren’t performing up to snuff and you’ve done your due diligence in determining via a soil test that your soil does in fact lack magnesium, here are some suggestions for using Epsom salts as a remedy: Roses: The claims for the benefits of Epsom salts for roses include that they make the foliage greener and more lush, and produce more canes and more roses. The recommendation for applying to existing rose bushes is to either mix ½ cup of Epsom salts into the soil around the rose bush and water that in well or dissolve ½ cup of the salts in water and use that to water the rose bush. This is recommended for spring, just as the buds are beginning to open. An Epsom salt foliar spray (1 tbsp. of Epsom salts per gallon of water) is also suggested for roses with the caution to avoid leaf scorch by not over-using foliar spray and don’t spray leaves on hot, sunny day. Tomatoes and Peppers: These may show signs of magnesium deficiency late in the season, when their leaves begin to yellow between the leaf veins and fruit production decreases. Whether you will get more and/or larger fruits will depend on other factors as well, but using Epsom salts before the plants start to decline may help: either mix in 1 tbsp. of Epsom salts into the soil at the bottom of the planting hole when setting out transplants or mix the 1 tbsp. in a gallon of water and water the seedling. Continued on page 2
November, 2014
SALT
cont’d
Later, use a foliar spray of 1 tbsp. per gallon of water when the plants start to flower and again when the young fruits start to form, observing the same precautions noted above for avoiding leaf scorch. I think I’ll do my own research test by trying it on a few plants next year and see if I can tell the difference as the season goes along.
Splinter remover: Soak in Epsom salt, it will draw out the splinter.
And about that Epsom salt research: one professor at Washington State University is not a fan. Dr. Linda Chalker-Scott wrote an article that counters most of the claims made by Epsom salt enthusiasts and discusses in particular the problems with excess Epsom salts leaching into the soil and/or groundwater. Runoff of all of the materials we use whether they are “natural” or not is something we all need to be very conscious of and try to prevent. You can read Dr. Chalker-Scott’s article here: http://tinyurl.com/poxh7hz
Skin exfoliator: Massage handfuls of Epsom salt over your wet skin, starting with your feet and continuing up towards the face. Have a bath to rinse the salts off.
A good article at the National Gardening Association website is much more encouraging and suggests that Epsom salts in a foliar spray is the way to go. The article summarizes research being done on the use of Epsom salts at various locations. Although the sample size used in each test is fairly small, efforts seem to be taken to follow good scientific method in the testing process. The entire article is a good read and, if nothing else, will remind you of something you probably learned in your master gardener classes (and then forgot), which is that the uptake by your plants of magnesium, potassium, sulfur and calcium is somewhat complicated (!). Think I’ll go with that simple foliar spray thing…http://tinyurl.com/mqo2qz4 And should you decide that you don’t really need the benefits of Epsom salts in your garden, don’t forget there are still many other claims made for their usefulness including:
Face cleaner: To clean your face at night, mix a half-teaspoon of Epsom salt with your regular cleansing cream. Just massage into skin and rinse with cold water.
Tile/grout cleaner- Mix equal parts of liquid dish soap and Epsom salts and use to scrub tile and grout. Rinse well for a streak free shine. Volumizing hair mask- Combine equal parts of conditioner and Epsom salt and leave on hair for 20 minutes. Rinse well and let air dry for thicker hair. Get rid of slugs- Have slugs in your garden or on your patio? Sprinkle Epsom salt to deter them. Headache relief- soaking in a soothing Epsom salt bath may help relieve headache. Smooth skin- Mix 1/2 cup Epsom salt with 1/4 cup olive oil and scrub skin in the shower for healthy and smooth skin. Itchy skin or bug bites- Dissolve a tablespoon of Epsom salt in to 1/2 cup of water and cool. Spritz on itchy skin or apply a wet compress to help relieve itching. Minor sunburn relief- Use the same ratio in the itchy skin relief above and spritz on to minor sunburns to help soothe them.
Relaxing and sedative bath: Soak in warm water and 2 cups of Epsom salt.
Help kids sleep better- Add a cup to kids’ bath water before bed to help them sleep peacefully.
Foot soak: Soothe aches, remove odors and soften rough skin with a foot soak. Add 1/2 cup of Epsom salt to a large pan of warm water. Soak feet for as long as it feels right. Rinse and dry.
Ultimately, the decision as to whether your garden might benefit from the addition of Epsom salts should be based upon your soil profile and individual needs and requirements. Remember, as we always tell others: (all together now) Get a soil test first!!
Soak sprains and bruises: Epsom salt will reduce the swelling of sprains and bruises. Add 2 cups Epsom salt to a warm bath, and soak.
There is still time to participate in this year’s peanut butter challenge! Drop off locations are: Okaloosa County Extension Office 3098 Airport Road in Crestview Open Monday-Friday, 8 am to 5 pm
Okaloosa County Extension Annex 127 NW Hollywood Blvd. in Fort Walton Beach Note: This location is only available for drop-off of peanut butter each Friday from 9:30 am to 12 noon
Some locations will be closed NovemOkaloosa County Farm Bureau Office ber 11 for Veteran's Day 921 West James Lee Blvd. (Hwy. 90) in Crestview Visit http://peanutbutterlovers.com for Open Monday-Friday, 8 am to 5 pm peanut butter recipes, health and nutrition information and to view a video of an OkaNatural Resources Conservation Serloosa County 3rd generation peanut farmer. vice 938 N. Ferdon Blvd. (Hwy. 85) in Crestview Open Monday-Friday, 7:30 am to 4:30 pm
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You can find even more events by going to the member web site: www.ocmgamembers.org and click on the calendar page. Events throughout the Panhandle are listed. Simply click on the event and you’ll see all the pertinent information!
ANTIQUE TRACTOR DRIVE AND PULL NOVEMBER 21ST AND 22ND MARIANNA, FLORIDA CLICK ON THE IMAGE FOR MORE INFORMATION
SUGARCANE FIELD DAY NOVEMBER 6TH There is a $10 registration fee per participant. To register, call the Gadsden County Extension Office 850-875-7255 Click here for more info
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November, 2014
Tri-County Horticulture Studies Group Meetings and Activities for 2014 Meetings 10:00 a.m. – 12:00 noon, lunch optional November 20 Coordinators: Brenda Jordon and Marie Harrison Location: Emerald Coast Nursery Speaker: Designer for Leslie Odom, Owner of Nursery, “Designs for Christmas” Activity: On site. Emerald Coast Nursery is a great place to shop. Lunch: Ruby Tuesdays, Niceville
Click on the images to open up a link to the specific event page.
General Membership Meeting November 12th 9am Extension Annex, Ft. Walton
USDA Energy Initiative Workshops November 18 & 19 Click on the image for information
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November, 2014
DANGEROUS PLANT...DECEPTIVE NAME What? A fern that produces flowers, although unimpressive, and bright red berries? In this case foxtail asparagus fern, also called "florist fern," isn't a fern at all. It is a member of the lily family which encompasses tulips, daylilies, hostas and amaryllis. Asparagus densiflorus ’Meyersii’ is an evergreen plant with its bushy, trailing, graceful branches and looks great draped over a retaining wall, or in a hanging basket. The University of Florida states it is also used all over the country as an ornamental for borders and ground covers. The colorful berries provide a very interesting menu for birds who deposit seeds capable of producing unwanted new plants in natural areas in Florida.
by A. Rosati
invasive species in Florida, you would not be allowed to use any part of it in chapter, garden club, or federation flower shows. References Asparagus fern: Invasive Plant Management PlanFlorida Invasive http://plants.ifas.ufl.edu/node/54 Florida Invasive Plant Education Initiative in the Parks http://plants.ifas.ufl.edu/parks/ asparagusfern.htmI Gardening Know How: Foxtail Asparagus FernsInformation on the Care of Foxtail Fern Duvauchelle, Joshua. Care of Foxtail Ferns
University of Florida IFAS, Asparagaceae This plant is native to South Africa and now has the distinction of being listed as a Category II in- Dave's Garden, Plant Files: Foxtail Fern, Asparavasive by the Florida Exotic Pest Plant Council. gus densiflorus 'Meyersii’ The first step in controlling the spread of the asparagus fern is to prevent its sale, propagation and planting. Image from leon.ifas.ufl.edu The concern is that it has been found in colonies which invade forest systems and take over native plant species. In a publication by the University of Florida, the following statement was made. "Asparagus fern has the potential to be similar to climbing asparagus, with the potential to smother the forest understory and prevent regeneration of canopy species. The U.S. Department of Agriculture rates its hardiness for zones 9 through 11. Natural areas throughout Florida which have been impacted include Hillsborough, Lee and Polk counties probably due to the fact that the plants are drought resistant, tough and obviously require low maintenance in shaded areas. One way to make use of the greenery and protect the environment, is to grow this plant indoors. If you are interested in growing the foxtail asparagus fern for greenery in cut flower arrangements for your home, the plume-like foliage can last for 2-3 weeks before yellowing. Since it is considered an An Okaloosa County Master Gardener Publication
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November, 2014
BMP FOR WEEDS
by L. Morris
What are safe-best-management practices for warm season grasses inundated with weeds in and around ornamental beds? Weed growth habits are good indicators of HOW to treat varying types of weeds. Broadleaves or dicotyledonous plants have two cotyledons (seed leaves) when the weed seed germinates. True leaves have net-like veins and usually have showy flowers. Typical examples include clovers, chickweed, Florida pusley. Grasses are monocotyledonous plants that have only one cotyledon, or seed leaf, present when seedlings emerge from the soil. Grasses have hollow, rounded stems with nodes (joints) and parallel veins in their true leaves. Examples include crabgrass, torpedo grass, etc. Sedges/Rushes have triangular-shaped, solid stems, while rush stems are round and solid. Both favor a moist habitat. Examples are yellow and purple nutsedge and perennial kyllinga. Photo from okaloosa.ifas.ufl.edu
Weeds also can be classified by their life cycles. Annual weeds complete life cycles in one growing season. Summer annuals complete life cycles from summer to fall.
barrier it is not as effective. Carolina false dandelion and cudweed are examples of biennial Post-emergent herbicides are most effective when applied to weeds which in their second year mature, produce seed and die. small, actively growing weeds; must remain on weed foliage one or more hours to be effective. Weeds that live more than two years are perennials. Reproduction takes place using tubers, bulbs, rhizomes or stolens. Some also can produce seeds in addition to vegetative reproduction. In Do not use weed and feed herbicides in landscape beds. A drop spreader minimizes damage to ornamentals when going around winter they live in a dormant state and may lose their familiar ground foliage and stems. These weeds are very difficult to elimi- beds. nate. Torpedograss, nutsedge and various vines are members. Hand weeding, reducing irrigation, dense planting, wellFlorida betony is a perennial weed that under sub-tropical climaintained turf, weed-free transplants, organic mulch (pine mate, initiates its growth in the fall, grows during the winter straw, pine bark, straw, wood chips, etc.) synthetic mulch months and goes dormant during the heat of the summer but (plastic films, landscape fabrics, etc.) are several non-chemical stays alive. methods of reducing or eliminating weeds. Pre-emergent herbicides are safer than Post-emergent herbicides. This layer that is laid down forms a protective coating as a deterrent to seedlings emerging; usually needs watered in to be effective. If you have kids, adults, dogs, cats etc., breaking that
Ref: Atlas of Florida Vascular Plants;
The Jokester Angel Trumpets like cooler weather!
Pew Perspectives
Photo courtesy of D. Hickenbotham
Ladies, don’t forget the garage sale. It’s a chance to get rid of those things not worth keeping around the house. Bring your husbands.
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November, 2014
BOOK REVIEW
by M. Stewart
Invasive and Non-native Plants You Should Know, Northwest Florida.
IFAS experts have assembled these 3.75"x6" laminated cards to help professionals, students, and the general public learn to recognize 31 of the non-native and invasive plant species found in northwest Florida. All of these plant species are currently targeted by the Florida Department of Environmental Protection for control in public waters and conservation lands in northwest Florida. The front of each plant card features a color photograph and plant name to help with visual recognition, and the back contains information about the plant's overall appearance, leaves, flowers, fruit, ecological threat, and distribution. Alphabetized by scientific name, the cards are bound with a metal clasping ring that allows you to remove, add, or reorganize the cards to fit your specific needs. This lavish set is made up of 31 plant cards and 9 informational cards including a glossary of plant terminology; a list of plants by common and scientific names; a labeled set of illustrated plant parts; and a bibliography. A handy ruler is provided on the last card. This set is available through the UF/IFAS Bookstore, Item #SP437 and the cost is $20. A full set of 80 ID cars is also available (this set covers all regions in Florida) as Item # SP431 and the cost is $35.
THIS SET IS ONLY AVAILABLE WHILE SUPPLIES LAST! THE SET HAS BEEN DISCONTINUED!
Full pitcher plant ‘pond’ Photo courtesy of D. Hickenbotham
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The Jokester If the police arrest a mime, do they tell him he has the right to remain silent?
November, 2014
AIR POTATO Dioscorea bulbifera, the air potato, is a true yam. It is a perennial vine with broad leaves and two types of storage organs. The plant forms bulbils in the leaf axils of the twining stems, and tubers beneath the ground. New plants develop from the bulbils that form on the plant, and these bulbils serve as a means of dispersal. The primary means of spread and reproduction are via bulbils. The smallest bulbils make control of air potato difficult due to their ability to sprout at a very small stage. A distinguishing characteristic of air potato is that all leaf veins arise from the leaf base, unlike other herbaceous vines such as smilax and morning glories. Flowers are inconspicuous, arising from leaf axils in panicles 4 inches long, and are fairly uncommon in Florida. http:// www.texasinvasives.org/plant_database
by D. Stever Air potato can grow extremely quickly, roughly 8 inches per day, and eventually reach over 60 feet long. It typically climbs to the tops of trees and has a tendency to take over native plants. An alternative planting is Florida Dutchman’s pipe (Aristolochia maxima), other alternatives can be found at Flowering Vines for Florida (http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/mg097).
A native to tropical Asia, air potato, Dioscorea bulbifera, was first introduced to the Americas from Africa. In 1905 it was introduced to Florida. Due to its ability to displace native species and disrupt natural processes such as fire and water flow, air potato has been listed as one of Florida’s most invasive plant species since 1993, and was placed on the Florida Noxious Weed List by the Florida Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services in 1999 (http://plants.ifas.ufl.edu/node/133)
WILDLIFE HAPPENINGS
courtesy of www.wec.ufl.edu/extension
November has arrived! Here are wildlife happenings to look for this month.
ing.
Birds: *Cedar waxwings come south for the winter. *Look for downy, hairy, red-bellied, and redheaded woodpeckers. *Bald eagles begin their nesting season. *Sandhill cranes return in full force from their breeding grounds up north. *Many yellow-rumped warblers , palm warblers and gray catbirds have arrived. *Kinglets, phoebes, robins, and other northern songbirds arrive for the winter.
Now is when you want to set up the winter seed and suet feeders. Hollies, cherry laurels, privet, and other fruit plants will attract Cedar waxwings. Bald eagles will be putting on quite the air show with their spectacular aerial courtship displays. Only a small number of Sandhill cranes live here year round so this is the month to spot this majestic bird.
Mammals: *Peak of deer rutting season. *Bears are on the move. *Manatees begin to move to relatively warmer waters at springs. *Look for migrating Hoary and Red Bats.
Since our bears will be on the move, keep an eye out while driving. Boaters be aware of speed zones and keep an eye out for migrating manatees. Did you ever wonder how your landscaping affects wildlife? You can help find out by participating in a citizen-based birdmonitoring program. The Florida Bird Monitoring Program is a website where you can enter your bird survey data and view results from participants across Florida. If you are interested in this program, go to http://wec.ifas.ufl.edu/birds/ and check out how to sign up .
Amphibians: *Ornate chorus frogs begin calling. Fish: *Spotted sea trout should enter tidal creeks around ThanksgivAn Okaloosa County Master Gardener Publication
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November, 2014
UPDATES AND INFO
by Editorial Staff
A reminder to check out the Master Gardener program on Crestview Television! We have some new videos up there! http:// www.cvctv.info/channel.cfm?category=The%20Master% 20Gardener&id=4430
www.solutionsforyourlife.com/hot_topics/agriculture/ cold_protection_of_ornamental_plants.html
COOL STUFF YOU MIGHT HAVE MISSED
UPDATED PUBLICATIONS
*Sugarcane Ratoon Stunting—3 page fact sheet describing symp- It can be hard to remember what produce is in season when. Especially if you want to stock up on a particular item, when is the toms, causal agent, prevention and control. http:// peak of the season? There is a helpful chart, Eating in Season: edis.ifas.ufl.edu/sc002 Produce Availability in Florida. You can download this .pdf and *Controlled-Release and Slow-Release Fertilizers as Nutrient check it out prior to hitting the produce aisle or the farmer’s marManagement Tools—6 page fact sheet focusing on how to select ket. http://www.solutionsforyourlife.com/images/ the right fertilizer to enhance profitability and satisfy BMPs. http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/hs1255 Eating_In_Season%20Graphic.pdf *Sensation™ brand ‘Florida127’ Strawberry—4 page fact sheet providing information and recommendations. http:// edis.ifas.ufl.edu/hs1256
There is a Florida Friendly web application. The cost is $1.99 a year. This gives you access to over 400 plants. You’ll always be able to immediately check ‘right plant-right place’ from your phone or tablet. *New Sources of Southern Chinch Bug Resistance in St. Augusti- https://fyn.ifas.ufl.edu/plants/guide/about negrass—4 page fact sheet reporting on the results of a preliminary screening to detect resistance to chinch bugs. http:// The gardening solutions web site has lots of good information. There edis.ifas.ufl.edu/hs1239 are also ’info-graphics’ that you can download. They are done in a monthly format and cover what is blooming in a particular month. An*An Overview of US Blueberry Production, Trade, and Consump- other monthly graphic lists edibles to plant that month. There are sevtion, with Special Reference to Florida—8 page fact sheet provideral other graphics as well covering air potato (see this publication’s ing updated information about recent trends in blueberry proarticle on air potato to see it), mosquito control and many more. duction, consumption, and trade for the US market. http:// http://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/plants/plant-of-theedis.ifas.ufl.edu/fe952 month/infographics.html *Description of Enhanced-Efficiency Fertilizers for Use in Vegetable Production—9 page fact sheet. http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/
hs1247
We have a plethora of wildflowers. Save this link for access to a searchable database of wildflowers AND butterflies. http:// www.flmnh.ufl.edu/wildflower/
*Extension and Community Resilience: Improving Community Disaster Preparedness Using Online Resources—4 page fact sheet describing supplemental educational materials that can be added to community resiliency training, offering background information and specific tools for disaster preparation. http://
Would you really like to grow pumpkins? How about one that takes the summer heat and humidity in stride? Not to mention, relatively pest– and disease-free? Then consider the Seminole pumpkin. http:// gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/plants/edibles/vegetables/seminolepumpkin.
edis.ifas.ufl.edu/wc187
*Splitting in Dooryard Citrus . http://nwdistrict.ifas.ufl.edu/ hort/2014/10/28/fruit-splitting-in-dooryard-citrus/
Okay folks. We live in a digital age. We have information out there, in many locations. Have you considered what happens to that information when we go to that great garden in the sky? Check out https:// www.yahoo.com/tech/heres-what-happens-to-your-data-after-you-die101447039569.html This article covers many of the on-line venues that people frequent as well as providing good advice for advance preparations.
*Insects Take a Break in Winter. http://nwdistrict.ifas.ufl.edu/ hort/2014/10/28/insects-take-a-break-in-winter/
Demonstration gardens in the University of Florida Cooperative Extension Service http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ep108
RECENT ARTICLES
*Paraná Pine, An Ancient-Looking Conifer for Modern Landscapes. http://nwdistrict.ifas.ufl.edu/hort/2014/10/28/paranapine-araucaria-angustifolia-an-ancient-looking-conifer-formodern-landscapes/
The Jokester
Decafalon (n.):
TIMELY
The grueling event of getting through the day consuming only things that are good for you.
Controlling Mildew. https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/fy796 Protecting ornamental plants from the cold. http:// An Okaloosa County Master Gardener Publication
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November, 2014
ALL A-BUZZ
by P. Garrett
This month, we will continue our discussion on bee biology and Caste III, the worker honeybee. (Caste I, the queen and Caste II, the drone were studied in last month’s issue).
There are about 100 or so workers that GUARD the hive. Depending on how large a threat is perceived, many more workers can become guards. In fact, workers are able to switch back and forth between various roles/jobs, depending on the needs of the colony. Guards begin at around 18-24 days. Each hive has a unique, distinct odor, so the guards know when an intruder tries to enter. Occasionally, I have seen yellow jackets attempt to enter the hive and it is amazing to watch the worker bees wrestle around with the intruder, trying to sting or even bite it.
I can guarantee you, with 100% surety, that any honeybee you see foraging on a flower will be a worker bee, which we all know by now is a female! Impress your friends and family by stating this random fact when the opportunity arises. Our beloved workers do not begin life as foragers, but tragically they will die as foragers.
Finally we arrive at a worker bee’s final task. That of a forager. Usually beginning at 3-4 weeks of age, but sooner if needs warrant. She may be a SCOUT BEE, looking for new sources of water, pollen, nectar or propolis (plant resin – more about this mysterious substance another day). Scout bees are guided to seek out food by the aroma, color, shape or markings on flowers. They communicate by doing the “wiggle” dance on the frame (the dance floor) notifying other FORAGERS of the location of the bounty and whether it is a good location by the intensity of the dance and her level of excitement. There is SO much more to foraging behaviors, but due to space I cannot cover here. Additionally, there are many wonderful publications and the first one I would recommend is (don’t chuckle, well you can if you want to) BEEKEEPING FOR DUMMIES. Seriously it's not too bad!
Temporal polyethism. Simply defined, temporal = time, poly = many and ethism = behavior. A worker bee’s job changes as she ages, and roles are based on the juvenile hormone present in her body. Different glands develop which also signal a job change. As they progress and age, worker bees gradually move toward the entrance of the hive. The very first job a worker bee has upon emergence from the cell is that of a CLEANER BEE. That is, of course, after begging for food from older bees. She soon learns to find stored pollen (rich in protein) for herself. The ‘newbees’ (pun intended) are found in the brood area, where it is safe and warm, where they proceed to clean out all the cells where the pupa have emerged.
Can you imagine a greater love than to sacrifice oneself for the good of the colony? I reminisce on my first year of beekeeping and how heartbreaking it was for me to watch a “girl” crawling back toward her hive at the end of the day, her wings tattered, ants covering her. I often would pick her up, to see if she had any life left in her. Could she fly again? I wanted to put her back on the ledge of the hive entrance, but I had no idea to know which hive she belonged. So after many times of observing what seemed to be an agonizing death, I started my mercy killings. All the while appreciating each one for her gifts, and for her sacrifice.
As mentioned, after a few days, probably about 6, her glands mature (hypopharangeal and mandibular) and she begins feeding older worker larvae a honey and pollen mixture. She also can feed the queen and begin to groom, remove waste and pick up after the queen (as an attendant). It is now that we call her a NURSE BEE. Her next role is that of a HONEY PRODUCER. She migrates toward the entrance and receives nectar from foragers. After mixing the nectar she received with enzymes (active evaporation), the nectar will be placed in a cell where she fans her wings (passive evaporation). Fully ripened honey will ultimately be capped with wax and sealed.
Such a short life, five to six weeks … again, a big thank you to our beloved honeybee, Apis Mellifera.
Ever wondered how wax is produced? Workers have special wax glands on the sides of their body and after 12 days, may be considered WAX PRODUCERS. Four sets of glands secrete “sheets” of wax, which the worker then takes, mixes it with her saliva, and manipulates it with her mandible. Now, new wax is ready for building new comb or capping cells. After 14-21 days, workers will do orientation flights around the colony, as her flight muscles are developed fully by now. She is now able to defend the hive!
An Okaloosa County Master Gardener Publication
Sources: University of Florida Dr. Jamie Ellis, Dept. of Entomology & Nematology Biology of the Honey Bee 11/18/2011
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November, 2014
CONTEST Last month we asked the question...Who is this? We had a couple of guesses but only one correct answer! Congratulations B. Buckellew! Who was it? Our very own E. Smith seen here during phenology training.
submitting the photo stumps everyone, they receive the prize for the month. The winner will be announced at December’s meeting! Do you have something you think could stump everyone? Send in your pictures or perhaps you have a riddle? Go ahead, can’t hurt to guess.
So what’s on tap for this month? We received a photo and this time it is called….What am I? If you find this in your bower, it might not be a flower! While this image is pretty, it will make things look…...bad. Entries are due no later than midnight November 30th. You can send in your submissions via email here Only one entry per person. Winners of the previous month are not eligible this time. As always, if the person
P. Collins H. Gifford M. Harrison L. Leon J. Martin C. Moody
DON’T FORGET! We now have a full calendar on our member web-site! Click on the event and any additional information will be posted for that event. This calendar is updated constantly so check back often. www.ocmgamembers.org/Calendar.html An Okaloosa County Master Gardener Publication
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November, 2014
M. Stewart —Editor S. Farrell , K. Harper and S. Berry—co-editors
Have pictures or an idea for an article? Send it in! Articles and pictures are always welcome.
Your member site: www.ocmgamembers.org
The Foundation for the Gator Nation.....An equal opportunity institution.
LAST WORD I have a pair of garden pants that I really, really like. They fit great for about 5 minutes after they come out of the dryer. After walking about 3 feet, said pants begin a downward migration. Sort of like the swallows heading back to Capistrano….only slower and without a sound track. It doesn’t help that I have a habit of shoving things in my pockets. Knife, string, labels...hey! You never know when you might need these things. Besides, who has the time to grab the tool bucket with the $39 ‘bucket buddy’? Hmm? The result is a serious case of droopy drawers and the distinct possibility of ‘gardener’s gap.’ Gardener’s gap is a nottoo-distant relative of plumber’s butt. You get the picture, albeit not a pretty one. Why don’t I wear a belt, you might ask. I think about it. Honestly, I really do think about it. I think about it after about the 6th time of hoisting my britches. By that time, I’m filthy dirty (hey—I’m closer to the ground that most of you so I’m entitled to get more dirt on me) besides, the dirt will inevitably fall off of me and leave a trail through the house...that means more work and a not-so-happy-Happy Hubby. Not to mention that by this point I am almost done with the project I was working on...okay almost done is a stretch but who wants to stop by this point...you’re in the gardening groove! ...so why stop and go get a belt? This has gone on for quite a while. I’ve stumbled and drooped my way through many ‘moons’ of gardening in these pants. They are old friends. I will tell you this, I hate to discard something that (a) cost quite a bit and (b) still has use left in it. I have been known to wear a pair of sneakers until the sole literally falls off and hot glue will no longer fix them. Likewise, with pants, excluding an occasional bout of gardener’s gap, there are no unseemly body parts are visible. The pockets are still relatively intact. So I keep wearing them. At this rate, I figure the pants will succumb to overuse some time in the year 2020. Finally, Happy Hubby, after witnessing this predicament for several years and realizing that paragraph 6 of the marriage
An Okaloosa County Master Gardener Publication
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By M. Stewart contract stated quite clearly that it is the wife’s duty NOT to listen to him when it comes to certain things (he STILL violates paragraph 9 which states that the husband is NEVER right...sigh...some men never learn) presented me with an early Christmas present. My very own pair of VERY bright, rainbow colored suspenders! What a nifty invention! You clip these suckers on, front and back and Viola! No more hitchin’ britches! No longer will I face drafty breezes and pine straw in places one should never have pine straw. I’m the fashionista of the garden now. Rainbow suspenders, combat boots, ratty t-shirt, and camouflage pants. Yes indeed. A vision of beauty (so says Happy Hubby). I will admit that these suspenders do have a couple of drawbacks. They are elastic. As in, get snagged on a bush and not realize it and you could conceivably end up being snapped into the next yard without batting an eye. Note to self: When adjusting said suspenders do not pull them out from your body any distance and then release quickly. Those metal alligator slides HURT! Also, you really need to remember that these are attached when you, ummm, need to ‘take a break’ as it were. Depending on the urgency of your ‘break’ it can get a tad dicey. Laundering is another issue I have yet to figure out. Insertion into either the washer or the dryer results in the laundry room sounding like a herd of Clydesdales are impersonating River Dance. Not to mention the impact this occurrence makes on the furry denizens of this household. Minor details I’m sure. Nothing is going to lessen my sublime bliss at having nonsaggy pantaloons. No longer will I fear that someone will enter the yard at the wrong moment. No more will plant parts have access to restricted areas! I wonder if there are suspender accessories? A handy Velcro pocket for those easy to lose items. Hmmmm. Have to check on that. Now, if I can just find some socks to match my Rainbow Brite suspenders, I will be all set! November, 2014