SPRING FLING EDITION!
for discerning weeders
Nursery Updates - pg. 6 Home visits don’t have to be scary - pg. 9 News you can use - pg. 12 And much, much more!
The Foundation for the Gator Nation..... An equal opportunity institution.
HOPPING ALONG! The Easter Bunny may be gearing up for a busy time delivering all those goodies and hiding eggs, but he has nothing on our Master Gardeners when it comes to being super busy this time of year!
The Jokester When the chips are down…..
Between manning the telephones and the offices, giving presentations, working events and still finding time to gain more knowledge…..PHEW!
The buffalo is empty.
Thankfully, we do have a fabulous Board who does their level best to keep the whole group on track and moving in the same direction. Next time you see one of our Board members, take a moment to thank them for all their hard work, and perhaps administer oxygen or at the very least feed them chocolate!
Don’t forget to log your hours in the VMS system!
We are now in our 22nd year of operation as an organization. Twenty-two years of providing the best science-based information we have to homeowners throughout our county. That equates to a lot of lawn questions and tomato problems doesn’t it? But we are only able to do all the things we do with the help of all our members. Never forget that even if you aren’t comfortable going at it alone, there’s nothing that says you can’t use the buddy system. This issue we have some helpful information when it comes to doing site visits (home visits). We also have the updated publication list from UF/IFAS. You should always go over those because there is new information being discovered every day.
INSIDE THIS ISSUE
And now for an apology from the Editor for the lateness of a Newsletter. Between cars having temper tantrums, family matters, and everything else that life tends to throw at you from time to time--the Newsletter just had to take a back seat. But, it’s back in the driver’s seat again and will be delivered on time to your in-box. Don’t forget that we’re really working hard to make VMS your go-to spot for event information and loads of other things. Get those hours in! We’re also doing remote phone training for those who are interested. A few of our members are now helping out with homeowner’s questions in this manner. Every bit helps! There’s also the Study Group which is a great way to increase your knowledge and have a great time. See L. Penry for more details. L. Fabian is working hard on the State award packages. Any questions should be directed to her. These packages do take a lot of work and we have one of the best handling it. Just take a peek in the Crestview office and you’ll see all that our group has been recognized for over the years.
Plentiful Plantings Editor-in-Chief
Plant Sale
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Event Calendar April/May
3
On the Trail
5
Nursery Notes
6
In Our Yards
7
Mechanized Mayhem
8
Home Visit Hints
9
Frosty!
10
Bug Tales
11
News You Can Use
12
Wildlife Happenings
13
April Garden Chores
13
Gardener Holidays
13
Recipe Round-Up
14
Last Word
15
On the Cover - S. Dunning April, 2016 ‘Experience the Mountains in Northwest Florida’
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For details on any of the upcoming events, go to www.ocmga.org/Calendar.html. Master Gardener members go to VMS to sign up for events and log in your hours.
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For details on any of the upcoming events, go to www.ocmga.org/Calendar.html. Master Gardener members go to VMS to sign up for events and log in your hours.
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ON THE TRAIL It is nice to see that the interest in the Trail is finally beginning to increase. The Tri-County Horticulture and Environmental Study Group had quite a few folks in attendance for their walk on February 23. The group was led by one of our newer Master Gardeners, J. Hays. Don't miss my presentation this month when I will be conducting a tour for the Free Lecture Series. This will be a repeat of last year's very successful stroll where some of the more astute participants pointed out features of the trail that had been overlooked. I'm looking forward to again getting their intelligent suggestions and input. As expected, the fluctuating temperatures have played havoc with some of the more tender plants in the Honor Nursery. One week they appear to have gone into winter dormancy and the next week they are sprouting what should be spring growth. Hopefully we will again have a splendid display in time for lecture attendees to partake.
by B. Bayer flare at the base. Much is this beauty is lost to the human eye because these flowers are atop the 70-90' trees. Up close viewing is usually only done when the blossom has fallen to the ground.
This tree is considered to be the tallest eastern hardwood. George Washington planted one at his home in The compost project is doing well. The finished product was used Mount Vernon and it is now 140 feet tall. In addition to being as a storage area for the heeled in Muhly grass that was divided tall, it is usually very straight with few lower branches. This is during the February workday. The passive compost pile is almost probably why Daniel Boone choose one to make his 60 foot filled to capacity with all of the trimming from that day. I'm dugout canoe. The tree grows very quickly, adding as much as pleased to see we are finally re-cycling these waste products 24" per year, but does not exhibit the trait of being weak wooded, instead of throwing them in the dumpster. Both of the "hot" bins which is normal in rapidly growing trees. are almost ready for screening and as time allows their contents will be added to the finished bin. Then, it will be time to start all These majestic beauties can be found in and on the banks of Piney Woods Creek. Follow the path opposite Marker # 36. over again. FEATURE TREE:
Liriodendron tulipifera
This member of the Magnoliaceae family is one of the two members of the genus Liriodendron. The other is chinense, which is native to China and Vietnam. Very few people call this tree by its proper name with the exception of horticulturists. It is usually called a tuliptree, tulip tree, tulip poplar, yellow poplar, canoewood, saddle-leaf tree or white wood. While each of these names are somewhat descriptive, the most common being "tulip," is in reference to both the distinct leaf shape and the superficially resembling tulip flower. The flower has green sepals, green-yellow petals and an orange
An Okaloosa County Master Gardener Publication
Humans aren’t the only ones who enjoy our trail. This image, taken from the game camera installed on the trail shows another trail visitor. Even the deer have gotten into the ‘selfie’ craze.
Guardian of the composting area.
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NURSERY NOTES
by L. Vanderpool
We have begun gearing up for the indoor spring plant sale planned for April 22. We have potted some of the favorites such as various varieties of ajuga and white yarrow and a member donated enough pinecone ginger to make twenty pots. We will be working on getting others such as swamp sunflower and native seedlings potted in the near future. As soon as nighttime temperatures reach a stable reading of sixty degrees we will begin sticking cuttings of houseplants and foliage plants. A. Ogle and D. Edmiston, plant sale organizers extraordinaire, will be soliciting volunteers to assist with the sale in various jobs such as cashiers, floor walkers, greeters, etc. Please be ready to help us make this as successful as the fall sale last year. The plant sale day coincides with Earth Day and, if anyone has ideas for projects to celebrate this auspicious day, let me know and be willing to assist in making it happen. The plant stand in the Extension Annex auditorium was activated about mid-February. We plan on having good, healthy seedlings of various tomatoes, bell peppers, okra and some other spring garden favorites ready to go by sale time. If there is something special you would like us to propagate for you, please let one of the nursery committee know so we can get seeds in time to get them started. Better yet, you get the seeds and donate them in return for five free plants when they are ready! Although we have a plethora of sagos and various gingers, we still would like to have some peacock ginger corms and, if you are dividing clumps of yard plants, we need day lilies and other clumping plants. More passion flower vines are needed and even giant liriope or any of the smaller varieties of liriope would be welcomed. In other words, if you have spare plants, please consider donating them to the nursery.
Above right: Prepared for any weather eventuality! Arctic tundra or tropical paradise...our Master Gardeners weather it all.
Lower right: If you mess up propagating, we don’t put you in the dog house‌..actually we’re not sure we really want to know.
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IN OUR YARDS
by Staff
Image courtesy of D. Gordon, A. Ogle and others for these lovely images from their gardens
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MECHANIZED MAYHEM CAN BE A GOOD THING
by K. Harper
Weed control tools. I know what you’re thinking: your bare hands (maybe your gloved hands) and a spray bottle of Round-up®. Ah, but there is much more to consider when battling this perennial problem (pun intended) and there are some interesting and useful tools you might not have considered for your arsenal. (Please note that this article attempts to address tools you might use in your own garden or advise someone to use at home. Managing weeds in pastures, farmland, aquatic settings and/or other large areas is a different subject altogether.)
check. The notion that one can eliminate weeds altogether is of course an impossible dream. Weeds are nature’s healing remedy for sites that are in a naked state. Or, to borrow another aphorism: “nature abhors a vacuum,” meaning that bare or sparsely-planted areas are going to rapidly clothe themselves with whatever is handy, which is going to be…weeds. So your first goal is to accept that you can minimize weeds but you can never eliminate them. Focusing on a minimizing strategy, then, here are some tips to keep your sanity in the never-ending war on weeds:
So what’s out there on the market for fighting weeds? Well, the Fiskars Company™ has a variety of such items. I’m a Fiskars™ fan when it comes to pruning tools so I figured they’d have quality weeding tools: http://tinyurl.com/ ls5y6d5. For some reason (oh, I don’t know- maybe the growing aversion to excessive bending down once you hit your 60’s?), the tool that appeals to me the most is the Stand-Up Weeder®. Alas, I read reviews for it all over the web from customers at Home Depot, Amazon, Wal-Mart and others and the tool was pretty much panned for having lots of plastic parts that break readily. So I searched on and found something called a Stick n Kick™ that operates on the same principle (you get to remain standing while the tool does the work of removing the weed). This does look like a handy item for getting down to the root of dandelions, chamber bitter and other pesky weeds. I am not sure it would be durable enough to go after something like the subterranean tuber of the awful smilax vine, but I might be persuaded to give it a shot. The Stick n Kick appears to be made of fiberglass and rubber and *should* be more durable than the Fiskars version: http://www.sticknkick.com/ I also happened upon an awesome array of hand-weeding tools (and other gardening tools) at this site: http://www.bestweedingtools.com/ I have to say that, as someone with a large expanse of patio pavers to maintain, the patio knife weeder and the crack weeder both have me thinking, “thank heavens for Round-up.” Oh, and here’s something I never would have considered: a weed torch. This is a propane-fueled device that one uses to singe weeds to death and looks something like this: http://tinyurl.com/k5xwsga I would not use this device because there is usually a dog just a few steps away from me at all times and we would both be likely to get hurt with this thing. And if that wasn’t enough of a deterrent, here are the plaintive (if un-punctuated) words of one reviewer who used the device and failed: “…caught field on fire discolored stones in driveway“. ‘Nuff said as far as I’m concerned!
Resist cultivating. Weed seeds exist in the soil by the thousands, millions maybe, waiting for an opportune moment to sprout and make your life difficult. Every square inch of your garden contains weed seeds, but only those in the top inch or two of soil get enough light and warmth to trigger germination. Digging and cultivating brings hidden weed seeds to the surface. Always assume that weed seeds are lurking in your soil, ready to spring to life every time you dig up a patch of ground. In your beds. Dig only when you need to and immediately cover the disturbed area with thick mulch. In your lawn, avoid digging weeds out and instead use a sharp, narrow blade to cut through and remove dandelions and other lawn weeds. Or get yourself a Stick n Kick instead!
Mulch. You’ve heard this forever and it’s true: a thick layer of mulch goes a long way in suppressing weeds. As noted above, undisturbed weed seeds can and do exist in your soil. If, in addition to not over-cultivating and bringing those seeds to the surface, you also put an additional 3-4” layer of mulch on top of the soil, you will greatly reduce the chance of those many weed seeds being able to attain the optimal light, temperature and moisture conditions they need to sprout. This past year, I observed this principle in action. I have an area under an oak tree at my barn that produces acorns by the ton which, in turn, sprout and become dozens of baby oak trees. For years, I have laboriously cut down by hand all of those oak sprouts all summer long. Then last June, I finally wised up and put down a very thick (5”) layer of wood chips over the area and I can report that my decades-long battle with ‘trash trees’ is over. Only one or two of them sprouted all of last summer. So, whatever material you choose to use, be it wood chips, bark nuggets, straw, or pine needles-mulch, mulch, MULCH. And replenish your mulch annually. Your effort will pay off over time. 5” depth is overkill but I was getting desperate. Generally, you should keep mulch to a depth of 2”-3” so as to not deprive your soil of oxygen. A note So, let’s say that your idea of weed control has you less inclined about landscape fabric: it seems like a good idea in theory, but towards searching out the perfect weeding tool and more likely it’s not good in the execution. Soil and other organic matter will to want to prevent weeds from happening in the first place. Step accumulate on the landscape fabric and soon weeds will be one in this battle is to define weed control. Remember those growing on top of the fabric. Also, consider that if you ever want infamous words: “if you can’t name the problem, you can’t defeat to plant anything else in the area that’s covered by landscape it.” Here is a definition of weed control paraphrased from one of fabric, you’ll have to dig down and cut through the fabric to my favorite sites: http://tinyurl.com/koa96qg: “Weed control is accomplish that. I put landscape fabric down in some areas of a means to both prevent and eliminate invasive weeds from my yard 25 years ago and I still have to dig it out whenever I gardens and lawns, utilizing both chemical and physical want to move plants or add plants. And you know gardeners are techniques in order to prevent weeds from reaching maturity.” constantly doing both of those things! But before getting into control methods, let’s do a bit of a reality An Okaloosa County Master Gardener Publication
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WEEDS
cont’d.
Persevere. Keep to a regular weeding schedule. I have numerous planting beds in my yard, both ornamental and edible. If I were to allow myself to think, “good grief, I need to weed this whole ½ acre” I’d probably feel horribly overwhelmed. Instead, during the hot summer months, I go out in the late afternoons when the heat has abated and I weed a section at a time. Then I get a cold drink and celebrate liberating that section from its weed burden, thinking about how refreshed those plants will be in the morning when the sprinklers run and they don’t have to compete with weeds for water. I don’t allow myself to think about all the other areas that are crying for attention. It’s therapeutic, it’s beneficial to my plants and the dog likes to go out with me and help. And so what if I never really finish the job? As gardeners, we know that a garden is a perpetual work in progress. Own it.
Plant as closely as possible. Crowd those plants a bit. Close plant spacing gives weeds less space to take hold. Eliminate gaps by using mass plantings or drifts of closely spaced plants rather than of widely scattered ones. In recent years, I’ve been crowding more plants into available spaces every year, considerably bending the plant-tag spacing recommendations, or ignoring them altogether. I thought it was because I was (a) running out of bed space and/or (b) perpetually unable to stay away from plant nurseries or (c) wanting to see thick, lush planting beds before I get old and die. But it turns out I was simply using a clever weed-avoidance strategy.
Don’t water the weeds if you can avoid it. This is tough advice to follow if you use overhead sprinklers. But if you’re thinking of redesigning your irrigation system, consider using drip irrigation as an excellent method of getting water to the Make it easy (easier) on yourself. Weeding after a rain roots of the desirable plants while keeping it away from the when the soil is softer and more pliable is easier than pulling weeds. This can greatly reduce the amount of weed-seed weeds out of hard, dry ground. Also, try to get at the weeds while germination in your planting beds. they’re young and tender. They will be easier to pull out than tough, mature weeds. Always remember that your main goal Finally, build up your soil fertility. Add compost, manures with any weeding program is to prevent as many weeds as you and other organic materials to keep your existing plants thick can from going to seed. If all you can manage to do is to remove and healthy. Let those weed seeds move on to someone else’s the flowering parts of the weeds, congratulations! You’ve either bare spots! prevented or at least delayed the weeds from perpetuating themselves. This is my thought process every time I pull up a chamber bitter plant, which is a tedious and seemingly thankless job at times: “Look at all those hundreds of seeds on that plant. That is hundreds of little chamber bitter plants that will never sprout in my yard.” That thought can be enough to keep you going when the weeding gets tough.
HOME VISIT HINTS There’s comes a time in the course of every Master Gardeners’ life where they have to do a home/site visit. GASP! Never fear, here are a few helpful hints from the Home Visit Team to take some of the guesswork out of the event. 1.
2. 3.
4. 5.
by A. Ogle due to changes in elevation. Be sensitive to the owner. If you must deliver bad news, explain the problem and potential results before you deliver an answer that they don’t want to hear. It is human nature to shut down when you receive an answer that you don’t like. This method also works well on spouses but is not effective on teenagers. 7. If you cannot resolve the issue, tell the client that you will research and get back with them. Ask for help from Larry Williams and/or other Master Gardeners. 8. Provide the client with an email summary of the visit along with a list of recommended UF publications related to their issue(s). 9. Complete your report as soon as possible while the information is fresh in your mind and submit it. 10. Always invite/inform the client of upcoming lectures, plant clinics and plant sales. 11. Follow up after a reasonable period for results. 6.
Make a home visit bag. Include such items as: a hand lens/ magnifier for insect id and other close-up work, OCMGA resource guide, OCMGA brochure with helpful sites, pen and paper (make sure the pen works!), laser pointer for showing tree/large shrub issues, books or publications related to client’s issue(s), trowel and pruners, camera/smart phone/tablet, Ziplock® bags for collecting samples. Work in pairs. Always be on time (and if traffic or event occurs that you’ll be late CALL!), and always wear your name tag. Prior to the visit, make contact with the client and gather as much information as possible. Ask the client to email pictures of the problem. Sometimes with this conversation and subsequent pictures, the problem may be resolved without a site visit. Listen to the homeowner. They will usually volunteer infor- Do you have any helpful home visit hints/tips? Please share mation and you will gain an understanding of their needs them with A. Ogle and we will print them next month. and knowledge. Look at the site on Google Earth or the property appraiser’s site. If you are visiting an older home and a lot of new homes have been constructed nearby, there may be flooding issues
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A FROSTY ONE!
by K. Harper
Not that we’ve actually saw much of it this past winter but we thought you’d enjoy reading up on frost, just in case we eventually do have a winter in 2017. So…
off and blow around and is described as being similar to tumbleweeds or to the dust bunnies under your bed. Pictures here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yukimarimo
What is frost? Very simply, frost is water vapor from the air that has condensed as ice onto a surface. It usually occurs overnight. Frost tends to form on objects close to the ground, such as blades of grass. In temperate climates (such as ours) it most commonly appears as fragile white crystals or frozen dew drops near the ground. In colder climates it occurs in a greater variety of forms (described below). The heaviest coatings of frost usually do not occur at the coldest temperatures because very cold air cannot hold very much water vapor. Instead, thick deposits of frost usually occur when the air temperature is close to 32 degrees F (0 deg. C).
Window frost occurs on glass surfaces and is also known by the more fanciful names of fern flowers or ice flowers. Window frost forms when a glass pane is exposed to very cold air on the outside with warmer, moister air on the inside. Scratches or other imperfections in the glass can influence the shape of crystals. The pattern in window frost forms a fractal or repeating image but is restricted to the two dimensions of height and width because of the glass, as opposed to an object such as a snowflake which also is a fractal but forms in three dimensions, including depth. More information about fractals is here: http:// science.howstuffworks.com/math-concepts/fractals.htm
How does frost form? The simplest explanation is that frost forms from water vapor in the air when the temperature of a solid surface in the open cools to below the freezing point of water and the water vapor goes directly to a solid without passing through the liquid phase. This is known as desublimation. And then there is the more comprehensive explanation which I have attempted to translate from Weather Service Geek-ese to plain English: frost can form when a surface cools through the loss of infrared radiation (heat radiation) to a temperature which is below freezing (32 degrees F.) and is also colder than the dewpoint of the air next to the surface. Dewpoint’ is the atmospheric temperature (and this varies according to pressure and humidity) below which water droplets begin to condense and dew can form. Frost crystals grow directly from the desublimation of water vapor from air, which means that the water vapor becomes ice on the surface without passing through the liquid phase. This can only occur if the surface temperature is sufficiently cold. The air must be humid, but not so humid that it permits the condensation of liquid water, or icing will result instead of frost because icing occurs if the water deposits as a Advection frost or wind frost forms when very cold wind liquid that then freezes. blows over flowers, tree branches or poles or other objects. It forms a rim on the edge of flowers and leaves and can occur at Types of frost. White frost or hoar frost or radiation any time of day or night. frost are synonymous terms. The name hoar is derived from an Old English word that means "showing signs of old age" which Black frost is not actually frost because it occurs when the describes the frost making trees and bushes look like they are humidity is too low for frost to form and the temperature drops strewn with white hair. Hoar frost occurs in humid conditions. so low that plant tissues freeze and die and become blackened. It The white crystals form on cold, clear nights when conditions are is often called "killing frost" for obvious reasons. such that heat radiates out to the open sky faster than it can be replaced from other sources such as wind or warm objects. Frost Rime also is not a frost but rather an ice deposit with a solid pockets can occur when ground-level radiation losses cool the air appearance that occurs very quickly in saturated air and windy until it flows downhill and accumulates in pockets of very cold conditions. Sailing ships travelling through Arctic seas may air in dips and hollows. Hoar frost may freeze in such low-lying accumulate rime in their riggings. cold air even when the air temperature a few feet above ground is well above freezing. Hoar frost is often described by where it Conditions favoring frost development. A clear, calm, occurs. Air hoar is frost on objects above the surface, such as cool and moist night will often lead to frost development. The tree branches and wires. Crevasse hoar and depth hoar clear skies contribute to radiational cooling which enables heat refer to accumulations of frost crystals in glacier crevasses or to exit into the atmosphere; calm winds permit a layer of beneath banks of dry snow, respectively. Depth hoar crystals super-cooled temps to develop at the surface that can be up to 10 grow continuously and become large and multi-faceted. Surface degrees cooler than 4-5 ft. above the surface, where hoar refers to ice crystals directly deposited on snow, ice or temperatures are usually recorded. So your weather gauge may already frozen surfaces. This type of frost when it covers a be reporting 36 degrees but the surface temp may be 30 degrees sloping snowbank can create the conditions for an avalanche to or less. Your location will also factor in. The differences in frost occur. This is because the frosty crystals stand out from the accumulations in adjacent areas is due partly to differences of existing snow and as new snow falls, they prevent it from elevation with the lower areas becoming colder on calm nights. bonding well to the existing snow beneath it. The new snow Cold air will settle in low-lying areas since it is heavier than becomes more likely to slide off in an avalanche. In very low warm air, making frost more likely in those areas. Lower temperatures a phenomenon known as ‘yukimarimo’ has been elevations also shelter the area from stronger winds which observed. This occurs when fluffy hoar crystals form and break increases the frost potential. The absorbency and the heat of the An Okaloosa County Master Gardener Publication
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FROST
cont’d.
ground in a specific area will also strongly influence the temperature of the nearby air and thus influence the formation of frost. An open field will develop frost faster than a forested area. This is because trees emit more radiation toward the ground than does the clear sky, so the area under a tree loses less energy (heat) than grass in an open field. And just who is Jack Frost? He’s the little gnome who is responsible for painting the autumn colors onto trees in the fall. He’s also known for nipping at your nose and for leaving frosty flowers on your cold windows, although the advent of insulated windows has kind put a crimp in that aspect of his mischief-making. One of his close associates is Old Man Winter. In Russia he’s known as Grandfather Frost. Here in Florida we have probably succeeded in raising entire generations of children who have no idea who Jack Frost is. And the older I get, the more I realize I don’t miss him at all either!
‘TRUE’ BUG TALES
by P. Garrett
Imagine my surprise and delight, when I happened upon a gorgeous orange creature in the bee garden. This was in December. Many years ago before becoming a master gardener, Larry enlightened me about Leaf-footed bugs and what the nymphs looked like. The nymphs are a beautiful shade of orange with some white spots. Leaf-footed bugs are from the order Hemiptera, and are a “true bug.” True bugs are distinguished by their piercing and sucking mouthparts. In Florida, we have nine species of Leaf-footed bugs (Leptoglossus.) The Hemiptera order contains 50,000 to 80,000 species in the world. After that, I was outside picking Satsumas. When I came in, my other half said, “what’s that orange thing in your hair?” I rushed to the mirror and behold, another Leaf-footed bug nymph.
upon further investigation, I found an adult Leaf-footed bug nearby. This finding helped me decide I probably was correct in identifying these are nymphs of the Leaf-footed bug. Also, when I have seen Assassin bugs, the piercing mouthpart (sometimes called a Rostrum), is usually not This was my second one in a matter of a few days! I agonized hidden under the body over whether this was truly a nymph and not an Assassin bug (but it could be), and to nymph, as they look very similar. It is always a challenge to my me, it simply looks untrained eye to differentiate the two. As Larry stated, more evil and Leaf-footed nymphs are usually in clusters, with many visualized threatening. Assassin on a plant. The two I found were running solo, which threw me bugs are usually alone off. too. Incidentally, the adult in the picture is Did I have a not a Leptoglossus phyllopus (the most common Leaf-footed beneficial bug we may see in Florida), because the white crossbar on its Assassin bug back is not straight. It is zig-zagged! nymph or did I have Leaf-footed By the way, Leptoglossus phyllopus can be a major pest in citrus nymphs? One can groves. Since I have a tree full of Satsumas, near all my pepper study images plants, I am thinking that’s why they were still in my yard that online for hours late in the year (and of course our unseasonably warm (as I do), and temps). Remember, Assassin bugs are beneficials (they are most of the time, predatory and feed on insects which will harm our crops), while depending on Leaf-footed bugs are not beneficial. where the bug is found, and its Although, they usually do little harm so I let them be. Except for behaviors, you a few “cloudy” spots on my tomatoes or peppers, they don’t do may arrive at a great damage in the numbers I have in my yard. As far as my conclusion. I was Satsumas, they do pierce the skin and inject saliva and enzymes beginning to so they can suck out juices. This can cause the fruit to rot and doubt I had drop. Leaf-footed nymphs when An Okaloosa County Master Gardener Publication
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April, 2017
NEWS YOU CAN USE Citrus Greening (HLB) is a devastating disease of citrus worldwide. The very first HLB case in North Florida was discovered in Carrabelle. Psyllids were not found in Carrabelle, but were captured in Bay and Gadsden counties. http://tinyurl.com/kbd8sdz The quarantine has been lifted since screwworms are eradicated from the Florida Keys http://tinyurl.com/lfd8yab Featured Creatures: Sirex Woodwasp Sirex noctilio Fabricius http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/in1154 Samurai Wasp Trissolcus japonicus (Ashmead) http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/in1156 Cucumeris Mite Neoseiulus cucumeris (Oudemans) http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/in1158 Pepper Whitefly Aleurotrachelus trachoides Back http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/in1159 Jumping Gall Wasp Neuroterus saltatorius Edwards http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/in1160 Muscidifurax raptor Girault & Sanders http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/in1161 Hister Beetle Carcinops pumilio (Erichson) http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/in1163 Striped Mealybug Ferrisia virgata Cockerell http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/in1164 Wheel Bug Arilus cristatus http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/in243 East Indian Hygrophila - submersed aquatic weed listed as a Florida Class II. 5 page fact sheet provides an overview of the plants, discusses its habitat and control. http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ag413
by Staff that causes the disease is not known in Florida, it may spread to the state which means that olive producers and homeowners with olives must watch for symptoms of the disease as well as for the leafhopper insects that spread it. 3 page fact sheet explains how to monitor for the disease and its insect vectors and offers advice and assistance for commercial and hobby olive growers. http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/in1165 Coconut Oil - 5 page fact sheet about coconut oil and how it might affect heart health. http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/fs289 Alternatives to hazardous household substances - 6 page fact sheet. http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/he791 Preventing Foodborne Illness: E. coli - 7 page fact sheet discusses the pathogen especially as it concerns food handlers, processors and retailers. http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/fs097 Master Gardener webinar page http://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/mastergardener/ volunteers/education/webinars.html Air Potato http://ufifas.adobeconnect.com/p285imnw2ia/ Native Alternatives to Ornamental Invasives in Florida http://ufifas.adobeconnect.com/p2ne8t69e45 Helpful Details for Commercial Propagation of Woody Plant Stem Cuttings - 3 page fact sheet providing details such as sanitation, quality of cuttings, time of year/day to take cuttings, stem size diameter and length of cutting, location of cuts/ terminal bud removal, and environmental conditions. http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ep536 Mighty American Chestnut poised for return to America’s Forests https://www.sciencedaily.com/ releases/2017/03/170306092247.htm Mini-Blinds Needed! - Our nursery workers propagate so many plants - and keep us busy making so many labels - it doesn’t take long to go through our stash of old blinds. If you find any old mini blinds being discarded, please bring them to the nursery!
Ganoderma Karst is a large and diverse genus of wood decay fungi that can rot the roots and/or lower trunk of many tree species. Six-page fact sheet provides an overview of the different species. http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pp333
The Jokester Why is lemon juice made with artificial flavor and dish soap is made with real lemons?
Biology and Management of Goosegrass (Eleusine indica) in Ornamental Plant Production - 6 page fact sheet with information about the biology and management, including preemergence and postemergence control options. http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ep538 Biology and Management of Thickhead (Crassocephalum crepidioides) - 4 page fact sheet describing this weed and various methods for its control. http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ep534 Managing Scale Insects and Mealybugs on Turfgrass - 8 page fact sheet describes the types of scale insects and mealybugs that can become pests in turf, explains the damage they do, and lists management techniques to control them. http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/in1166 Xylella fastidiosa and Olive Quick Decline - This disease is killing olive trees throughout southern Italy. Although the pest An Okaloosa County Master Gardener Publication
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April, 2017
WILDLIFE HAPPENINGS Spring is going strong here in the Florida Panhandle. Here are some of the wildlife activities that you should be on the look out for: Birds *Bobwhite quail nest now through September. *Migrant warblers concentrate on coasts after cold fronts. *Watch for hummingbirds feeding. *Grosbeaks, warblers, tanagers, orioles, and thrashers begin returning to North America.
by Staff Amphibians *Pine barrens treefrogs begin calling. Reptiles *Most Florida snakes begin mating rituals. *Beginning of Sea Turtle nesting season. *Alligators begin moving about, seeking new territories and mates. The Jokester
Mammals *Black bears begin moving around more. *Long-tailed weasels, minks, and river otters will be born April through May. *Endangered Gray Bats return to Florida caves to raise young.
Why didn’t Noah swat those two mosquitoes?
APRIL GARDEN CHORES
by Staff
Annuals - New varieties of coleus do well in sun or shade and will provide color all season long.
Pests - Monitor landscape plants for aphids that feed on tender new growth.
Bulbs - Blood lily, caladium, canna, and Louisiana iris may be planted now.
Lawns - Apply fertilizer after new growth has started. Follow the instructions on the bag and be sure to purchase fertilizer that is appropriate for your lawn type.
Herbs - Continue planting warm season herbs such as: basil, oregano, sage, and rosemary. Vegetables - Continue planting warm season crops. Be sure to mulch well to prevent weeds and provide irrigation if rainfall is insufficient.
Consider adding additional or fresh mulch to planting areas to conserve moisture in the summer months. Monitor landscape for irrigation problems and pest issues.
Perennials - Expand or rejuvenate garden beds by dividing clumps of ornamental grasses or herbaceous perennials now.
GARDENER HOLIDAYS
by Staff
Did you know that 2017 has been declared by the United Nations Daily Holidays as The Year of Sustainable Tourism for Development? All Fools Day 1st National Love Your Produce Manager Day 2nd 2017 is also the Year of the Rooster. No Housework Day 7th National Farm Animals Day 10th Monthly Observances Rubber Eraser Day 15th Atlanta Food & Wine Month National Orchid Day 16th Car Care Month National Garlic Day 19th Fresh Florida Tomatoes Month Frog Month Grange Month National Garden Month Happy Birthday To: National Pecan Month E. Fabian National Pest Management Month J. Fitzhugh Straw Hat Month R. Hastings J. Kogge Weekly Observances J. McCreary International Dark Sky Week - 10th - 14th D. Sewell National Park Week 15th - 23rd National Environmental education Week - 23rd - 29th National Volunteer Week - 23rd - 29th An Okaloosa County Master Gardener Publication
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April, 2017
RECIPE ROUND-UP Coconut Cake submitted by S. Olsen 1 box, Duncan Hines Golden Butter Cake Mix. Bake according to package directions in 2 layer pans. When cold, split each layer. For the frosting: 16 ounces sour cream 12 ounces fresh or frozen coconut 2 cups sugar 1 small carton Cool Whip Mix together sour cream, coconut, and sugar. Spread between 4 layers of cake. Save 1 cup of this mixture and fold into Cool Whip. Frost top and sides with Cool Whip mixture. Sprinkle with coconut. Refrigerate up to 6 weeks. This gets better the longer you keep it. You can also use this recipe as a sheet cake without the need to split. Happy Calorie Busting! Corn Salad submitted by M. Evors via Nellie from D. Carter 2 cans white, Shoepeg corn, drained 2 cucumbers peeled and chopped (I do not peel, giving it a little green color. I also make sure they are young enough so seeds are not a problem.) 1 red bell pepper, chopped 2 tomatoes, chopped Salt and Pepper to taste Enough mayonnaise to make it slightly soupy Mix everything together and refrigerate for several hours before serving. Springy Flower Pot Desserts by The Pioneer Woman courtesy of G. Hess
staff In a food processor pulse the Oreo cookies until them resemble nice, topsoil. You can also crush them in a Ziploc bag. Remove the firmed up pots from the freezer and spoon the 'dirt' over the top. Place a fresh flower into the straw and then cover with a bit more dirt. Blueberry Cream Cheese Pie by B. Bayer 1 8ounce package cream cheese, softened 1/4 cup sugar 1/4 cup sour cream 1/2 tsp. vanilla extract 1 baked 9 inch pastry shell 1 cup fresh blueberries 1/2 cup water 1/2 cup sugar 2 Tbsp. corn starch 1 Tbsp. lemon juice 1 1/2 cups fresh blueberries Sour Cream Dash of ground cinnamon 2 Tbsp. powdered sugar Blueberries Grated nutmeg Combine 8 oz. cream cheese, 1/4 cup sugar, 1/4 cup sour cream and 1/2 tsp. vanilla extract and beat at medium speed of an electric mixer for 1 minute or until smooth. Spread mixture in baked pastry shell; cover and chill for 1 hour. Place 1 cup blueberries in a small saucepan; mash with potato masher. Add 1/2 cup water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer 3 minutes. Remove from heat. Strain berry mixture. If necessary, add water to juice to make 1 cup and return to saucepan.
1 hole pound cake 1 gallon ice cream 1 package Oreo cookies Small clay flower pots (new) Straws Fresh cut flowers
Combine 1/2 cup sugar and corn starch and stir into berry liquid. Bring to a boil, and boil 1 minute stirring constantly. Stir in lemon juice. Cool.
Slice the pound cake into 1 to 1 1/2 inch slices. Next, with a biscuit cutter or cookie cutter that fits the bottom of the flower pot cut the slices into rounds. If you desire, line the flower pots with aluminum foil, stopping about 1/2 inch from rim.
To serve, dollop each slice with sour ream. Combine powdered sugar and cinnamon; sprinkle over sour cream. Garnish with blueberries and grated nutmeg.
Into each of your (washed and dried) flowerpots, drop a round of pound cake, lightly pressing to make sure they are all the way down. Hold a straw up against the side of a flowerpot and snip it so it's about 1/2 to 1 inch shorter than the top. Stick the straw into the center of the pot, anchoring it into the cake. Take the ice cream and set it out on the counter to soften or microwave for 20 seconds or so. It needs to be somewhat soft. Spoon the ice cream into pots, working it around the straw, until it almost reaches the very top of the straw. Clean up the top edges of the pot with a damp paper towel. Place the pots in the freezer until firm. An Okaloosa County Master Gardener Publication
Place 1 1/2 cups of blueberries over cream cheese mixture; pour cooled berry glaze over top. Chill 2-3 hours.
Date Balls by C. Rose 1 stick butter 1 cup brown sugar 1 8oz package of chopped dates 1 cup toasted, chopped pecans 2 cups Rice Krispies In a pan combine butter, brown sugar and chopped dates, heat until melted and then add the pecan and rice krispies. Mix well and allow to cool completely. Roll into balls then roll in confectioners sugar.
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April, 2017
M. Stewart —Editor
LAST WORD
S. Farrell , K. Harper, and S. Berry—co-editors
Ed. Note: Our Editor is still recovering from various shenanigans and cat-tastrophes. We hope you enjoy the following.
Have pictures or an idea for an article? Send it in! Articles and pictures are always welcome.
Mission To assist Extension Agents in providing research-based horticultural education to Florida residents. Vision To be the most trusted resource for horticultural education in Florida.
Courtesy of Baxter Black, cowboy poet laureate Vegetarian’s Nightmare (A dissertation on plants’ rights) Ladies and diners I make you A shameful, degrading confession. A deed of disgrace in the name of good taste Though I did it, I meant no aggression. I had planted a garden last April And lovingly sang it a ballad. But later in June beneath a full moon Forgive me, I wanted a salad! So I slipped out and fondled a carrot Caressing its feather top. With the force of a brute I tore out the root! It whimpered and came with a pop! Then laying my hand on a radish I jerked and it left a small crater. Then with the blade of my True Value spade I exhumed a slumbering tater! Celery I plucked, I twisted a squash! Tomatoes were wincing in fear. I choked the Romaine. It screamed out in pain, Their anguish was filling my ears! I finally came to the lettuce As it cringed at the top of the row With one wicked slice I beheaded it twice As it writhed, I dealt a death blow.
by M. Stewart I butchered the onions and parsley. My hoe was all covered with gore. I chopped and I whacked without looking back Then I stealthily slipped in the door. My bounty lay naked and dying So I drowned them to snuff out their life. I sliced and I peeled as they thrashed and they reeled On the cutting board under my knife. I violated tomatoes So their innards could never survive. I grated and round ‘til they made not a sound Then I boiled the tater alive! Then I took the small broken pieces I had tortured and killed with my hands And tossed them together, heedless of whether They suffered or made their demands. I ate them. Forgive me, I’m sorry But hear me, though I’m a beginner Those plants feel pain, though it’s hard to explain To someone who eats them for dinner! I intend to begin a crusade For PLANT’S RIGHTS, including chick peas. The A.C.L.U. will be helping me too. In the meantime, please pass the bleu cheese.
Plentiful Plantings
From all of us to all of you Don’t forget that the Plant Clinic will be held on April 14th at the Annex!
An Okaloosa County Master Gardener Publication
Happy Easter!
April, 2017