Drag

1. [slang] clothes

2. longitudinal retarding force

Turbulence: disruptive, dissipative, creative

Taking the rough with the smooth

Fundamentally concerned with constructive disruption, the aim of the project was to develop the physical phenomena of pressure, disruption and turbulent flow as informative concepts and processes in the creative development of fabric forms and garment construction.

Altering the perception of technical fabrics via creating the illusion of traditional knit effects .

Smoke flow visualisation experiemnts (Cranfield University). Samples of pleated polyester lining (chosen for best definition) were placed on a mannequin within an open-ended wind tunnel. A single smoke source was introduced and the air flow over the fabric was observed.

Further experiments involved observing and inducing the movement of fringed fleece in turbulent flow and making fabric drapes that were inflated by the flow.

Using an adapted water tank and fine tubing, it is possible to introduce discrete lines of ink to the fluid flow.

Experiments were conducted (at Cambridge University) using mobile phones/iPods as objects within the flow and by placing samples of pleated polyester (the pleats held with fusing) in the base of the tank.

Development of bespoke hand pleating cards (laser etching approach) Use of machine pleating. Use of ultrasonic bonding - for function and decoration. Use of laser cutting and etching to create knit pattern effects.

Concept, design and pattern development of Euler Jacket

Concept, design and pattern development of Mach trousers

Concept, design and pattern development of Helmholtz dress.

Concept, design and pattern development of Torricelli dress

Euler

Style: Euler

Look #:1

Season: Drag AW10/11

Fabric

Name

Composition

Colour

Supplier

Main

Super 200

100% PES fleece

Sapin

TdE

Component

Surface treatment

Supplier

All

accordion pleat

Rosamander

Front, collar,cuffs

laser cutting

CSM

Weight gsm

Width cm

210

Length/# pieces

Length m

150

Price £/m

4.0

Price £/m/piece

Cost

9.17

36.68

Cost

0.5x2m;3x1.0m

6

24.00

4pcs, 1 hour

£15 + #hr x £15

30.00

Trim/notion

Composition

Size

Colour

Supplier

Thread

100% PES

Epic 120

5976

Coats

Label

100%PA

Horizontal

GRL/BGD

N/A

Quantity

Unit price

Cost

0.5

3.10

1.55

1

0.25

0.25

Total costs and sample price: Materials

Labour

Packaging

1st Cost

Overheads

Margin

Wholesale

RRP

92.48

50

0.65

143.13

20.00

14.13

178.00

355.00

Mach

Style: Mach

Fabric

Look #:1

Name

Composition

Colour

Season: Drag AW10/11

Supplier

Weight gsm

Width cm

Length m

Price ÂŁ/m

Cost

Main

Country

74% Cotton 26% PA

BGD104

Concordia

150

1.65

5.91

9.75

Lining

City

57% Cotton 43% PA

BGD104

Concordia

150

0.4

6.28

2.51

Fusing

Easy Fuse

iron on

White

Vilene

91

0.2

1.81

0.37

Trim/notion

Composition

Size

Colour

Supplier

Thread

100%PES

Epic120

09640

Coats

Quantity 0.5

Unit price 3.24

Cost 1.62

Ovlk thread

100%PES

80 guage

Blk

Coats

0.05

9.83

0.49

Ovlk thread

100%PES

200 guage

Blk

Coats

0.05

17.94

0.90

Zip

Nylon

15cm

grey

YKK

1

1.41

1.41

Button

Plastic

B302/28

Grey/Grn

McCulloch

1

0.81

0.81

Total costs and sample price: Materials

Labour

Packaging

1st Cost

Overheads

Margin

Wholesale

RRP

17.86

80

0.65

98.51

20.00

9.85

129.00

255.00

Stevin

Style: Stevin

Fabric

Look #:2

Name

Composition

Colour

Season: Drag AW10/11

Supplier

Weight gsm

Width cm

Length m

Price ÂŁ/m

Cost

Main

Xtr Lgt

100% PA

BD104

Concordia

33

160

2.15

5.29

11.37

Lining

Xtr Lgt

100% PA

BD104

Concordia

33

160

1.50

5.29

7.94

Quantity

Trim

Composition

Size

Colour

Supplier

Snap Fasteners

100% PA

7mm

Clear

Prym

Thread

100%PES

70

593

Gutterman

Ovlk thread

100%PES

80 guage

Blk

Coats

Ovlk thread

100%PES

200 guage

Blk

Coats

Unit price

Cost

6

0.08

0.48

0.2

3.26

0.65

0.05

9.83

0.49

0.05

17.94

0.90

Total costs and sample price: Materials

Labour

Packaging

1st Cost

Overheads

Margin

Wholesale

RRP

21.83

25

0.65

47.48

20.00

4.75

73.00

145.00

Helmholtz

Style: Helmholtz

Look #:3

Season: Drag AW10/11

Fabric

Name

Composition

Colour

Supplier

Main 1

Super 200

100% PES fleece

VertdeGris

TdEigle

Component

Surface treatment

Supplier

Inner body&slvs

Scallop pleat

Rosamander

Outer

Laser cut

CSM

Weight gsm 210

Length/# pieces

Width cm 150

Length m

Price £/m

4.8

Price £/m/piece

9.17

Cost 44.02

Cost

2

6.00

12.00

5pcs /4hrs

£15 + #hrsx££15

75.00

Total costs and sample price: Materials

Labour

Packaging

1st Cost

Overheads

Margin

Wholesale

RRP

131.02

25

0.65

221.02

20.00

22.10

264.00

525.00

Rankine

Style: Rankine

Look #:4

Season: Drag AW10/11

Fabric

Name

Composition

Colour

Supplier

Main

Fleece

100% PES fleece

Cream

A-One

Component

Surface treatment

Supplier

All

Honeycomb pleat

Rosamander

Weight gsm

Width cm

250

150

Length m 2.45

Length/# pieces

Price ÂŁ/m/piece

4pcs/ 2 cards

10.00 per card

Trim

Composition

Size

Colour

Supplier

Ruching elastic

Latex/PU

40mm

White

Dismer

Shirring elastic

50%EL,50%PA

0.5mm

White

GoldZack

Quantity

Price ÂŁ/m

Cost

4.00

9.8

Cost

Unit price

20

Cost

3m

1.15

3.45

0.75

1.20

0.9

Total costs and sample price: Materials

Labour

Packaging

1st Cost

Overheads

Margin

Wholesale

RRP

34.45

50

0.65

85.10

20.00

8.51

114.00

225.00

Prandtl

Style: Prandtl

Fabric

Look #:4

Name

Composition

Colour

Season: Drag AW10/11

Supplier

Main

Mini 200

100% PES fleece

Acier

TdEigle

Lining

AquaPiumi

100%PA

GRL382

Concordia

Component

Surface treatment

Supplier

Outer

Laser etch/ cut

lining

Laser cut

Weight gsm

Width cm

Length m

Price £/m

Cost

200

150

0.8

7.56

6.05

55

160

0.65

3.85

2.50

Length/# pieces

Price £/m/piece

CSM

4pcs /2 hrs

£15 + #hrsx£15

CSM

5pcs

Cost 45.00

Total costs and sample price: Materials

Labour

Packaging

1st Cost

Overheads

Margin

Wholesale

RRP

53.55

15

0.65

69.20

20.00

6.92

97.00

190.00

Karman

Style: Karman

Look #:5

Season: Drag AW10/11

Fabric

Name

Composition

Colour

Supplier

Main

Mini200

100% PES fleece

Prusse

TdEigle

Component

Surface treatment

Supplier

All

Scallop zig zag

Rosamander

Trim

Composition

Thread

100% nylon

Size

Weight gsm

Width cm

200

Length m

150

3.7

Length/# pieces

Price ÂŁ/m/piece

3.7

6.00

Colour

Supplier

Invisible

Stancraft

Quantity

Price ÂŁ/m

Cost

7.90

29.23

Cost 22.2

Unit price

1m

0.62 /200m

Cost 0.01

Total costs and sample price: Materials

Labour

Packaging

1st Cost

Overheads

Margin

Wholesale

RRP

51.44

30

0.65

82.09

20.00

8.21

110.00

220.00

Reynolds

Style: Reynolds

Fabric

Look #:5

Name

Composition

Colour

Season: Drag AW10/11

Supplier

Weight gsm

Width cm

Length m

Price ÂŁ/m

Cost

Main

Kiss Me

100% PES fleece

1104CA

Concordia

79

150

6.7

3.81

Lining

AquaPiumi

100% PA

GRL382

Concordia

55

160

0.8

3.85

3.08

Fusing

Easy Fuse

iron on

White

Vilene

91

0.1

1.81

0.19

Trim

Composition

Size

Colour

Supplier

Zip

100%PES

99cm /3mm

579

YKK

Thread

1000%PES

70

593

Gutterman

Quantity

Unit price

25.53

Cost

1

6.33

6.33

0.25

3.26

0.82

Total costs and sample price: Materials

Labour

Packaging

1st Cost

Overheads

Margin

Wholesale

RRP

35.95

30

0.65

66.60

20.00

6.66

94.00

185.00

Torricelli

Style: Torricelli

Look #:6

Season: Drag AW10/11

Fabric

Name

Composition

Colour

Supplier

Main

Kiss Me

100% PES fleece

1104CA

Concordia

79

Quantity

Trim

Composition

Size

Colour

Supplier

Zip

100%PES

81cm /3mm

579

YKK

Thread

1000%PES

70

593

Gutterman

Weight gsm

Width cm 150

Length m

Price ÂŁ/m

3.7

Unit price

Cost

3.81

14.10

Cost

1

6.04

6.04

0.25

3.26

0.82

Total costs and sample price: Materials

Labour

Packaging

1st Cost

Overheads

Margin

Wholesale

RRP

20.96

25

0.65

46.61

20.00

4.66

71.50

140.00

Flettner

Style: Flettner

Look #:7

Season: Drag AW10/11

Fabric

Name

Composition

Colour

Supplier

Main

Mini 200

100% PES fleece

Celadon

TdE

Weight gsm

Width cm

200

150

Length m

Price £/m

2.4

8.86

Component

Surface treatment

Supplier

Length/# pieces

Price £/m/piece

Cost

All

Laser cut

CSM

4pcs / 3hrs

£15 + #hrs x£15

60.00

Quantity

Cost

Trim

Composition

Size

Colour

Supplier

Shirring elastic

50%EL,50%PA

0.5mm

Black

William Gee

1m

Unit price 9.20/cone

21.26

Cost 0.05

Total costs and sample price: Materials

Labour

Packaging

1st Cost

Overheads

Margin

Wholesale

RRP

81.31

50

0.65

131.96

20.00

13.20

165.00

330.00

Vinci

Style: Vinci

Look #:8

Season: Drag AW10/11

Fabric

Name

Composition

Colour

Supplier

Main

Fleece

100% PES fleece

Cream

A-One

Component

Surface treatment

Supplier

All

Scallop pleat

Rosamander

Weight gsm

Width cm

250

150

Length m

Price ÂŁ/m

3.0

Length/# pieces

Price ÂŁ/m/piece

3m

6.00

4.00

Cost 12.00

Cost 18.00

Total costs and sample price: Materials

Labour

Packaging

1st Cost

Overheads

Margin

Wholesale

RRP

30.00

20

0.65

50.65

20

5.07

76.00

150.00

Bernouilli

Style: Bernouilli

Fabric

Look #:9

Name

Composition

Colour

Season: Drag AW10/11

Supplier

Weight gsm

Width cm

Length m

Price £/m

Cost

Main 1

Xtr Lgt

100% PA

BD104

Concordia

33

160

2.50

5.29

Main 2

AquaPiumi

100% PA

GRL382

Concordia

55

160

2.50

3.85

9.63

Lining

Xtr lgt

100% PA

BD104

Concordia

33

160

2.10

5.29

11.11

Component

Surface treatment

Supplier

Wrist straps

Laser cut

LCF

Length/# pieces

Price £/m/piece

6pcs /3mins

Trim

Composition

Size

Colour

Supplier

Snap fasteners

100% PA

12mm

Blk/Navy

Durable Fasteners

Cost

£5 /hr

Quantity

24.34

0.25

Unit price

28m

0.11

Cost 2.91

Total costs and sample price: Materials

Labour

Packaging

1st Cost

Overheads

Margin

Wholesale

RRP

48.24

80

0.65

128.89

20

12.89

162.00

325.00

Lomonossov

Style: Lomonossov

Look #:9

Season: Drag AW10/11

Fabric

Name

Composition

Colour

Supplier

Main

Mini 200

100% PES fleece

Acier

TdEigle

Component

Surface treatment

Supplier

All

Honeycomb pleat

Rosamander

Weight gsm

Width cm

200

150

Length m 3.25

Length/# pieces

Price £/m/piece

8 pcs /4 cards

£15 per card

Quantity

Price £/m

Cost

7.56

24.57

Cost

Unit price

60.00

Trim

Composition

Size

Colour

Supplier

Ruching elastic

Latex/PU

19mm

Blk

Dismer

24m

0.48

Cost 11.62

Shirring elastic

50%EL,50%PA

0.5mm

Blk

William Gee

30m

9.20/cone

1.00

Hanging ribbbon

100% PRS

7mm

Blk

Maculloch &Wallis

2m

0.19

0.38

Total costs and sample price: Materials

Labour

Packaging

1st Cost

Overheads

Margin

Wholesale

RRP

97.57

200

0.65

298.22

20.00

29.82

350.00

700.00

Chaplygin

Style: Chaplygin

Fabric

Look #:10

Name

Composition

Colour

Season: Drag AW10/11

Supplier

Weight gsm

Width cm

Length m

Price £/m

Cost

Main 1

Xtr Lgt

100% PA

BD104

Concordia

33

160

4.70

5.29

24.86

Main 2

AquaPiumi

100% PA

GRL382

Concordia

55

160

4.70

3.85

18.10

Lining

AquaPiumi

100% PA

GRL382

Concordia

55

160

4.5

3.85

17.33

Component

Surface treatment

Supplier

Selected pcs

Laser cut

CSM

Length/# pieces

Price £/m/piece

30 mins

£15 + #hrs x 15

Cost 22.50

Total costs and sample price: Materials

Labour

Packaging

1st Cost

Overheads

Margin

Wholesale

RRP

82.79

120

0.65

203.44

20

20.34

245.00

490.00