1. [slang] clothes
2. longitudinal retarding force
Turbulence: disruptive, dissipative, creative
Taking the rough with the smooth
Fundamentally concerned with constructive disruption, the aim of the project was to develop the physical phenomena of pressure, disruption and turbulent flow as informative concepts and processes in the creative development of fabric forms and garment construction.
Altering the perception of technical fabrics via creating the illusion of traditional knit effects .
Smoke flow visualisation experiemnts (Cranfield University). Samples of pleated polyester lining (chosen for best definition) were placed on a mannequin within an open-ended wind tunnel. A single smoke source was introduced and the air flow over the fabric was observed.
Further experiments involved observing and inducing the movement of fringed fleece in turbulent flow and making fabric drapes that were inflated by the flow.
Using an adapted water tank and fine tubing, it is possible to introduce discrete lines of ink to the fluid flow. Experiments were conducted (at Cambridge University) using mobile phones/iPods as objects within the flow and by placing samples of pleated polyester (the pleats held with fusing) in the base of the tank.
Development of bespoke hand pleating cards (laser etching approach) Use of machine pleating. Use of ultrasonic bonding - for function and decoration. Use of laser cutting and etching to create knit pattern effects.
Concept, design and pattern development of Euler Jacket
Concept, design and pattern development of Mach trousers
Concept, design and pattern development of Helmholtz dress.
Concept, design and pattern development of Torricelli dress
Euler
Style: Euler
Look #:1
Season: Drag AW10/11
Fabric
Name
Composition
Colour
Supplier
Main
Super 200
100% PES fleece
Sapin
TdE
Component
Surface treatment
Supplier
All
accordion pleat
Rosamander
Front, collar,cuffs
laser cutting
CSM
Weight gsm
Width cm
210
Length/# pieces
Length m
150
Price £/m
4.0
Price £/m/piece
Cost
9.17
36.68
Cost
0.5x2m;3x1.0m
6
24.00
4pcs, 1 hour
£15 + #hr x £15
30.00
Trim/notion
Composition
Size
Colour
Supplier
Thread
100% PES
Epic 120
5976
Coats
Label
100%PA
Horizontal
GRL/BGD
N/A
Quantity
Unit price
Cost
0.5
3.10
1.55
1
0.25
0.25
Total costs and sample price: Materials
Labour
Packaging
1st Cost
Overheads
Margin
Wholesale
RRP
92.48
50
0.65
143.13
20.00
14.13
178.00
355.00
Mach
Style: Mach
Fabric
Look #:1
Name
Composition
Colour
Season: Drag AW10/11
Supplier
Weight gsm
Width cm
Length m
Price ÂŁ/m
Cost
Main
Country
74% Cotton 26% PA
BGD104
Concordia
150
1.65
5.91
9.75
Lining
City
57% Cotton 43% PA
BGD104
Concordia
150
0.4
6.28
2.51
Fusing
Easy Fuse
iron on
White
Vilene
91
0.2
1.81
0.37
Trim/notion
Composition
Size
Colour
Supplier
Thread
100%PES
Epic120
09640
Coats
Quantity 0.5
Unit price 3.24
Cost 1.62
Ovlk thread
100%PES
80 guage
Blk
Coats
0.05
9.83
0.49
Ovlk thread
100%PES
200 guage
Blk
Coats
0.05
17.94
0.90
Zip
Nylon
15cm
grey
YKK
1
1.41
1.41
Button
Plastic
B302/28
Grey/Grn
McCulloch
1
0.81
0.81
Total costs and sample price: Materials
Labour
Packaging
1st Cost
Overheads
Margin
Wholesale
RRP
17.86
80
0.65
98.51
20.00
9.85
129.00
255.00
Stevin
Style: Stevin
Fabric
Look #:2
Name
Composition
Colour
Season: Drag AW10/11
Supplier
Weight gsm
Width cm
Length m
Price ÂŁ/m
Cost
Main
Xtr Lgt
100% PA
BD104
Concordia
33
160
2.15
5.29
11.37
Lining
Xtr Lgt
100% PA
BD104
Concordia
33
160
1.50
5.29
7.94
Quantity
Trim
Composition
Size
Colour
Supplier
Snap Fasteners
100% PA
7mm
Clear
Prym
Thread
100%PES
70
593
Gutterman
Ovlk thread
100%PES
80 guage
Blk
Coats
Ovlk thread
100%PES
200 guage
Blk
Coats
Unit price
Cost
6
0.08
0.48
0.2
3.26
0.65
0.05
9.83
0.49
0.05
17.94
0.90
Total costs and sample price: Materials
Labour
Packaging
1st Cost
Overheads
Margin
Wholesale
RRP
21.83
25
0.65
47.48
20.00
4.75
73.00
145.00
Helmholtz
Style: Helmholtz
Look #:3
Season: Drag AW10/11
Fabric
Name
Composition
Colour
Supplier
Main 1
Super 200
100% PES fleece
VertdeGris
TdEigle
Component
Surface treatment
Supplier
Inner body&slvs
Scallop pleat
Rosamander
Outer
Laser cut
CSM
Weight gsm 210
Length/# pieces
Width cm 150
Length m
Price £/m
4.8
Price £/m/piece
9.17
Cost 44.02
Cost
2
6.00
12.00
5pcs /4hrs
£15 + #hrsx££15
75.00
Total costs and sample price: Materials
Labour
Packaging
1st Cost
Overheads
Margin
Wholesale
RRP
131.02
25
0.65
221.02
20.00
22.10
264.00
525.00
Rankine
Style: Rankine
Look #:4
Season: Drag AW10/11
Fabric
Name
Composition
Colour
Supplier
Main
Fleece
100% PES fleece
Cream
A-One
Component
Surface treatment
Supplier
All
Honeycomb pleat
Rosamander
Weight gsm
Width cm
250
150
Length m 2.45
Length/# pieces
Price ÂŁ/m/piece
4pcs/ 2 cards
10.00 per card
Trim
Composition
Size
Colour
Supplier
Ruching elastic
Latex/PU
40mm
White
Dismer
Shirring elastic
50%EL,50%PA
0.5mm
White
GoldZack
Quantity
Price ÂŁ/m
Cost
4.00
9.8
Cost
Unit price
20
Cost
3m
1.15
3.45
0.75
1.20
0.9
Total costs and sample price: Materials
Labour
Packaging
1st Cost
Overheads
Margin
Wholesale
RRP
34.45
50
0.65
85.10
20.00
8.51
114.00
225.00
Prandtl
Style: Prandtl
Fabric
Look #:4
Name
Composition
Colour
Season: Drag AW10/11
Supplier
Main
Mini 200
100% PES fleece
Acier
TdEigle
Lining
AquaPiumi
100%PA
GRL382
Concordia
Component
Surface treatment
Supplier
Outer
Laser etch/ cut
lining
Laser cut
Weight gsm
Width cm
Length m
Price £/m
Cost
200
150
0.8
7.56
6.05
55
160
0.65
3.85
2.50
Length/# pieces
Price £/m/piece
CSM
4pcs /2 hrs
£15 + #hrsx£15
CSM
5pcs
Cost 45.00
Total costs and sample price: Materials
Labour
Packaging
1st Cost
Overheads
Margin
Wholesale
RRP
53.55
15
0.65
69.20
20.00
6.92
97.00
190.00
Karman
Style: Karman
Look #:5
Season: Drag AW10/11
Fabric
Name
Composition
Colour
Supplier
Main
Mini200
100% PES fleece
Prusse
TdEigle
Component
Surface treatment
Supplier
All
Scallop zig zag
Rosamander
Trim
Composition
Thread
100% nylon
Size
Weight gsm
Width cm
200
Length m
150
3.7
Length/# pieces
Price ÂŁ/m/piece
3.7
6.00
Colour
Supplier
Invisible
Stancraft
Quantity
Price ÂŁ/m
Cost
7.90
29.23
Cost 22.2
Unit price
1m
0.62 /200m
Cost 0.01
Total costs and sample price: Materials
Labour
Packaging
1st Cost
Overheads
Margin
Wholesale
RRP
51.44
30
0.65
82.09
20.00
8.21
110.00
220.00
Reynolds
Style: Reynolds
Fabric
Look #:5
Name
Composition
Colour
Season: Drag AW10/11
Supplier
Weight gsm
Width cm
Length m
Price ÂŁ/m
Cost
Main
Kiss Me
100% PES fleece
1104CA
Concordia
79
150
6.7
3.81
Lining
AquaPiumi
100% PA
GRL382
Concordia
55
160
0.8
3.85
3.08
Fusing
Easy Fuse
iron on
White
Vilene
91
0.1
1.81
0.19
Trim
Composition
Size
Colour
Supplier
Zip
100%PES
99cm /3mm
579
YKK
Thread
1000%PES
70
593
Gutterman
Quantity
Unit price
25.53
Cost
1
6.33
6.33
0.25
3.26
0.82
Total costs and sample price: Materials
Labour
Packaging
1st Cost
Overheads
Margin
Wholesale
RRP
35.95
30
0.65
66.60
20.00
6.66
94.00
185.00
Torricelli
Style: Torricelli
Look #:6
Season: Drag AW10/11
Fabric
Name
Composition
Colour
Supplier
Main
Kiss Me
100% PES fleece
1104CA
Concordia
79
Quantity
Trim
Composition
Size
Colour
Supplier
Zip
100%PES
81cm /3mm
579
YKK
Thread
1000%PES
70
593
Gutterman
Weight gsm
Width cm 150
Length m
Price ÂŁ/m
3.7
Unit price
Cost
3.81
14.10
Cost
1
6.04
6.04
0.25
3.26
0.82
Total costs and sample price: Materials
Labour
Packaging
1st Cost
Overheads
Margin
Wholesale
RRP
20.96
25
0.65
46.61
20.00
4.66
71.50
140.00
Flettner
Style: Flettner
Look #:7
Season: Drag AW10/11
Fabric
Name
Composition
Colour
Supplier
Main
Mini 200
100% PES fleece
Celadon
TdE
Weight gsm
Width cm
200
150
Length m
Price £/m
2.4
8.86
Component
Surface treatment
Supplier
Length/# pieces
Price £/m/piece
Cost
All
Laser cut
CSM
4pcs / 3hrs
£15 + #hrs x£15
60.00
Quantity
Cost
Trim
Composition
Size
Colour
Supplier
Shirring elastic
50%EL,50%PA
0.5mm
Black
William Gee
1m
Unit price 9.20/cone
21.26
Cost 0.05
Total costs and sample price: Materials
Labour
Packaging
1st Cost
Overheads
Margin
Wholesale
RRP
81.31
50
0.65
131.96
20.00
13.20
165.00
330.00
Vinci
Style: Vinci
Look #:8
Season: Drag AW10/11
Fabric
Name
Composition
Colour
Supplier
Main
Fleece
100% PES fleece
Cream
A-One
Component
Surface treatment
Supplier
All
Scallop pleat
Rosamander
Weight gsm
Width cm
250
150
Length m
Price ÂŁ/m
3.0
Length/# pieces
Price ÂŁ/m/piece
3m
6.00
4.00
Cost 12.00
Cost 18.00
Total costs and sample price: Materials
Labour
Packaging
1st Cost
Overheads
Margin
Wholesale
RRP
30.00
20
0.65
50.65
20
5.07
76.00
150.00
Bernouilli
Style: Bernouilli
Fabric
Look #:9
Name
Composition
Colour
Season: Drag AW10/11
Supplier
Weight gsm
Width cm
Length m
Price £/m
Cost
Main 1
Xtr Lgt
100% PA
BD104
Concordia
33
160
2.50
5.29
Main 2
AquaPiumi
100% PA
GRL382
Concordia
55
160
2.50
3.85
9.63
Lining
Xtr lgt
100% PA
BD104
Concordia
33
160
2.10
5.29
11.11
Component
Surface treatment
Supplier
Wrist straps
Laser cut
LCF
Length/# pieces
Price £/m/piece
6pcs /3mins
Trim
Composition
Size
Colour
Supplier
Snap fasteners
100% PA
12mm
Blk/Navy
Durable Fasteners
Cost
£5 /hr
Quantity
24.34
0.25
Unit price
28m
0.11
Cost 2.91
Total costs and sample price: Materials
Labour
Packaging
1st Cost
Overheads
Margin
Wholesale
RRP
48.24
80
0.65
128.89
20
12.89
162.00
325.00
Lomonossov
Style: Lomonossov
Look #:9
Season: Drag AW10/11
Fabric
Name
Composition
Colour
Supplier
Main
Mini 200
100% PES fleece
Acier
TdEigle
Component
Surface treatment
Supplier
All
Honeycomb pleat
Rosamander
Weight gsm
Width cm
200
150
Length m 3.25
Length/# pieces
Price £/m/piece
8 pcs /4 cards
£15 per card
Quantity
Price £/m
Cost
7.56
24.57
Cost
Unit price
60.00
Trim
Composition
Size
Colour
Supplier
Ruching elastic
Latex/PU
19mm
Blk
Dismer
24m
0.48
Cost 11.62
Shirring elastic
50%EL,50%PA
0.5mm
Blk
William Gee
30m
9.20/cone
1.00
Hanging ribbbon
100% PRS
7mm
Blk
Maculloch &Wallis
2m
0.19
0.38
Total costs and sample price: Materials
Labour
Packaging
1st Cost
Overheads
Margin
Wholesale
RRP
97.57
200
0.65
298.22
20.00
29.82
350.00
700.00
Chaplygin
Style: Chaplygin
Fabric
Look #:10
Name
Composition
Colour
Season: Drag AW10/11
Supplier
Weight gsm
Width cm
Length m
Price £/m
Cost
Main 1
Xtr Lgt
100% PA
BD104
Concordia
33
160
4.70
5.29
24.86
Main 2
AquaPiumi
100% PA
GRL382
Concordia
55
160
4.70
3.85
18.10
Lining
AquaPiumi
100% PA
GRL382
Concordia
55
160
4.5
3.85
17.33
Component
Surface treatment
Supplier
Selected pcs
Laser cut
CSM
Length/# pieces
Price £/m/piece
30 mins
£15 + #hrs x 15
Cost 22.50
Total costs and sample price: Materials
Labour
Packaging
1st Cost
Overheads
Margin
Wholesale
RRP
82.79
120
0.65
203.44
20
20.34
245.00
490.00