A fish to remember

A fish called AMADAI

Whitegrass Head Chef Takuya Yamashita pays tribute to the ocean with this crispy, mouth-watering dish.

’m from Nara Prefecture and I have a profound reverence for nature and an unwavering respect for produce.

I like using French culinary techniques to bring out the original flavours and characteristics of each ingredient, and I have a deep knowledge about Japanese ingredients, fish and produce.

Apart from making sure that my diners are satisfied with the good food and impeccable service from our team, I believe the most important thing is to share moments with them to make it extra

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memorable. I will always come out from the kitchen to meet my guests and tell them more about my nature-inspired cuisine and the food stories that go with this.

I source many of the ingredients used at Whitegrass from the farmers and fishermen in my hometown of Nara. I enjoy educating diners on how vegetables are grown with special care, how the different seasons and climates affect food sources, and so on.

I work with sous chef Nawata Kohei whose background in Chinese cuisine adds

Crispy amadai fish with eggplant and sea urchin

interesting input to our incredible seasonal menu.

We decided to use amadai, a type of tilefish, in our featured dish, and we wanted to present it at its best. We had to ensure its taste and texture go well with the other condiments so that we can retain its purest original flavour.

Amadai is unique because its scales can be eaten. Choosing the right size of fish is important because we have to pour hot oil over the fish repeatedly until the scales are fried perfectly and turn crispy. If the fish is too small, it is overcooked easily. My strength lies in how I have a deep understanding of fish. I also have good connections. Every day, I call my supplier directly at a wet market in Fukuoka to order the right size of fish. They always send over the best fish to us at Whitegrass!

Head Chef Takuya Yamashita (below left) and sous chef Nawata Kohei (below right) lead the charge at Whitegrass in Chijmes

3Takuya’s best of Japan

First, we carefully fry the fish until its scales are crispy. We have to do this without overcooking the flesh. Then we use an eggplant base so you enjoy both the crispy and smooth textures in one dish. To enhance the flavours further, sea urchin (uni) sauce is used as it has a natural sweetness.

The overall charming combination of amadai and sea urchin results in a palate-pleasing dish, presented from the sea to your plate.”

Whitegrass is at #01-26 Chijmes, 30 Victoria Street. Tel: 6837-0402

FROM NATURE TO TABLE

Head Chef Takuya Yamashita moved to Singapore last May after taking over from celebrated Australian chef Sam Aisbett at Whitegrass. He started his career at 21 in Aux Provençaux Tokyo, where he worked for six years. There, he would even hone his pastry-making skills at a patisserie on his days off. In 2015, he moved to France and joined the Michelin-starred restaurants Les Enfants Rouges and Étude in Paris.

After two years, he returned to Tokyo and was mentored by Chef Kazunori Otawa at the one-Michelin-starred Ciel et Sol, where he eventually became its head chef. “This allowed me to elevate my creations through the clever use of textural components,” he says.

Of his stint in Singapore so far, the 33-year-old says: “It was challenging at first and I got frustrated sometimes. Fortunately, I have a motivated and passionate team to support me.”

He works closely with sous chef Nawata Kohei, 31, whom he has known since they were culinary school classmates more than 12 years ago. While Yamashita marries classic French cooking techniques with a deep knowledge about Japanese ingredients and produce, Kohei’s background is in Chinese cuisine. Kohei worked as a former dim sum chef at the Mandarin Oriental Tokyo and is an expert hand at creating delicately detailed dim sum. He joined Whitegrass last July.

Together, they create the restaurant’s seasonal menu, which changes every two months. Says Yamashita: “Our vision is to provide good food that will make our diners happy and satisfied rather than food that is only good for photos.”

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Yubeshi “Fish and meat aren’t readily available in Nara’s mountains during winter, so we find other food sources. Yubeshi is a type of traditional wagashi (Japanese confectionery) made from yuzu, rice, miso, sake and walnuts, and covered with hay and fermented for months. It has a fresh citrus flavour and a unique taste. I use yubeshi in one of our restaurant’s duck dishes to give the classic French dish, duck à l’Orange, a new taste with Japanese ingredients.”

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Amadai “When fried, the scales on this unique tilefish pop up and have a crispy texture. It is delicious!”

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Yamato cha “This special green tea is grown only in one place – Nara (above). I’ve known one of the farms, Tea Farm Inokura, for a long time. It is a family farm that’s been around for 11 generations or about 260 years. The farmers hand-pick the leaves, and the tea is clear and sweet because of the morning mist from the surrounding mountains. I use this tea in the restaurant and at home too.”

HAMAMATSU & LAKE HAMANA

Halfway between Osaka and Tokyo, this city in Shizuoka Prefecture makes a great launchpad for food adventures, fun things to do and much more.

TEXT DENYSE YEO PHOTOS SATOMI MITARASHI

unset. We are spearfishing in the middle of Lake Hamana, one of Japan’s largest lagoons. Around us, the calm, shallow waters of the lagoon gently lap against our boat as the evening light shimmers. Before us sits the towering red torii gate; just behind, the shinkansen rumbles across where the lake meets the ocean.

It is an absolutely beautiful evening on the lake, but just another day in Hamamatsu city in Shizuoka Prefecture, central Honshu. While the lake is the life source of the region, providing plentiful seafood, the city is its heartbeat. Its main attractions are Hamamatsu Castle Park, which was built by the shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu, who lived in Hamamatsu for 17 years (1571 to 1588) and whose rule marked the start of the Edo period.

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Home to 800,000 people, Hamamatsu city is a great spot for festivals and food. It is known for a number of foodie adventures from spearfishing at night to catching your own eel for a grilled unagi lunch and harvesting your own Shizuoka muskmelons. Thanks to a mild climate and long periods of sunshine, especially during spring and summer, Hamamatsu has an abundant supply of fresh, nutrient-rich fare, so much so it has its own category of superfoods known as power foods.

Culture buffs aren’t left out in the cold either as Hamamatsu is also known as the City of Music. Take your pick between looking at giant calligraphy artwork and toying with musical technology, made by the world’s best-known musical instrument maker. Whatever you choose, you’re in for a surprising visit in this little city with big energy.

Off the eaten path You’ll find lots of food adventures to embark on when you’re in Hamamatsu.

Spearfish your dinner In Lake Hamana, we are on the hunt — for dinner. We’re spearfishing, a traditional method practised here for over a hundred years. Offered by Takiya Fishery from May to September, the experience is thrilling. After a quick demo from our fisherman guide, each of us throws a 5m-long steel spear like a javelin to catch what we’d like to eat. From prawns to octopus, mud crab to sayori (halfbeak fish), the seafood is abundant in these clear, shallow waters illuminated by the boat’s spotlights. Then it’s off to an open-air floating platform where the catch is cleaned, battered and fried or steamed. Kick back, feast and wash it all down with chilled chuhai, and this will remain a delicious memory to savour.

9985-3 Ubumi, Yuto-cho, Nishi-ku, Hamamatsu city, Shizuoka. Tel: +81-53-592-2260 (Japanese only)

The freshest catch — crab, fish, prawns and more — in Hamamatsu

Hand-catch slippery eels For your next grilled unagi don, maybe try getting hands on. And by that, we mean catching your own eel. It’s what you can do at Kaikokan, along the bank of Lake Hamana, that offers an eel catching and eating experience during summertime. Eels are released into a shallow pond and you will need to catch them with your bare hands. Once successful, the fishermen will help you to fillet, debone, skewer and grill them, before glazing sweet sauce — three times — over each piece. The result is crisp yet juicy unagi that’s super fresh. More adventurous eaters will enjoy skewered eel offal such as kidney and heart.

3268 Yoshimi, Kosai city, Shizuoka. Tel: +81-53-594-6624

When life gives you melons Shizuoka muskmelons are some of the world’s juiciest, sweetest varieties of melons. At Kashima Harvest, you’ll get to taste some and take one whole melon back with you. The farm offers melon picking from July to August. Each Shizuoka muskmelon plant bears one fruit at a time (unlike Hokkaido varieties that bear four at a time) and it takes about 50 days to harvest a melon here. Tip: Pick one with a fresh-looking T-shaped stem. After all that hard work, perk up by savouring half a chilled muskmelon — bliss on a hot summer’s day. You can also opt to have prosciutto with the green-fleshed fruit, prepared in advance. The farm also offers strawberry picking from November to May.

3624 Kurematsu-cho, Nishi-ku, Hamamatsu city, Shizuoka. Tel: +81-53-487-0875

TOSHIHIRO MIYAMOTO

Owner, Kashima Harvest

This third-generation farmer has set out to improve his farm and draw more visitors.

Why did you continue with the family farm? I’ve helped at the farm since I was a teenager. I studied farming at the Tokyo University of Agriculture in Kanagawa and when I finished, I decided not to return for a while to try something else. I went to Hokkaido to work in a melon shop in summer and at a ski resort in winter. When I returned home the following year, I promised my father I would try farming for a year. It’s been 16 years now! (laughs)

How have you modernised the farm? I visited many matsuri (festivals) and met many younger farmers. I saw how they connected with people and the local area, and I liked it. That changed my perception of farmers as being old people only. Besides melon and strawberry picking, I want to make the farm more enjoyable in the future and attract more people. For instance, perhaps I could add more lifestyle features like hammocks that would look great on Instagram. The most important thing is to welcome visitors. I enjoy meeting new people.

Why is Hamamatsu so special? I was born and raised here, and so are my three kids. I can’t express how happy I am to see young children eat what we’ve planted here. I want to continue farming here and create a tourism concept for more people to enjoy Hamamatsu city.

Fry your own gyoza At Hamataro Gyoza Center, you can put your dumplingmaking skills to the test. After all, Hamamatsu is Japan’s gyoza capital, so there’s no better place to try! After sealing the filling of minced pork, onion and cabbage in a dough wrapper, the gyoza are arranged neatly in a circle in the pan, Hamamatsu-style. A final flourish: garnish with boiled bean sprouts. If you’re trying this at home, use a lot of oil, sprinkle flour over the dumplings in the pan and fry over a high fire. When the gyoza turn dark brown, pour a little lukewarm water over and cover with a lid for three minutes to steam them before serving. Magic! The restaurant also has an eye-opening gyoza making and frying robotic machine that churns out row after row of gyoza for dine-in customers.

260-1 Mikatahara-cho, Kita-ku, Hamamatsu city, Shizuoka. Tel: +81-53-436-2041

Bottle some shoyu You can bottle your own shoyu (soya sauce) at Meijiya Shoyu. Its family recipe for shoyu dates back seven generations and does not have artificial ingredients. Everything is done by hand here, such as preparing and fermenting moromi, a mixture of soya beans, wheat, salt and koji (malt). Moromi is squeezed through a cloth and wooden press, and the liquid is pasteurised and bottled. With your name written on it, this 150ml bottle makes a great souvenir when you next have sashimi at home. It will keep for about a month.

2276 Komatsu, Hamakita-ku, Hamamatsu city, Shizuoka. Tel: +81-53-586-2053

Play “cha kabuki” Cha kabuki is a traditional Kyoto game that’s played as you blind-taste varieties of tea. One place to play the game outside Kyoto is here in Hamamatsu in the heart of Shizuoka, which is famed for green tea production. Part shop, part plantation and part factory, Muramatsu Shoten is a fun place to learn all about Japanese tea culture. During cha kabuki, you have to guess the kinds of green tea that is poured in front of you. A clue for those who are game: The steaming process to make Hamamatsu green tea makes it bitter, a taste many Japanese enjoy.

MASAHIRO MURAMATSU

Owner, Muramatsu Shoten

The knowledgeable thirdgeneration owner honed his knowledge of green tea by working for four years with a Kyoto tea specialist.

What sets your shop apart from others? In Kyoto, tea farmers and tea shops are completely separate. But with our little plantation, we have a great way for people to learn more about green tea.

Your shop offers a blind tea-tasting game called “cha kabuki”. Tell us more about it. I learnt this game when I was working in Kyoto. Started for the upper classes during Japan’s Kamakura period (1185 to 1333), cha kabuki tests your knowledge of different types of tea. It’s a relaxing way to bond too.

How do you attract younger customers? We offer green tea latte using sencha (Japanese whole leaf green tea) and soya milk with less sugar. Our packaging comes in modern designs. We offer teabags too, which the younger generation prefers to the traditional method of steeping tea leaves. And we would like to expand overseas by selling our products online on websites like Lazada. It might be difficult to do alone, but I’d like to find a business partner.

Where does your future lie? Hopefully, more tourists will visit us. I’d also like to get my community together more. Many grandparents live in this area and they tend to stay at home. But we can provide a space for them to meet, talk and relax with one another. This role is important, and it’s why I want to keep the plantation and shop going.

Sights, sounds for the soul Getting cultured in the city of music.

A brush with emotion With its elegant rock and waterfall gardens, Ryoun-ji is a beautiful place of worship. This tranquil temple is also home to the world’s largest calligraphy of the Heart Sutra, a Buddhist scripture that is revered by devotees. The gigantic 4m by 16m artwork is incredibly moving in person. It was painted by one of the most acclaimed calligraphers in Japan, Shoko Kanazawa, who has Down’s syndrome. Some of her other works are also displayed here, including one of the classic ichi enso (a circle representing enlightenment in Zen teaching), painted in a single stroke.

Vintage sounds Take the Kanzanji Ropeway (right) up from Lake Hamana and you’ll arrive at the Hamanako Orgel Museum. Built in 1999, this quaint, three-storey museum is home to more than 70 orgel, or wind-up music boxes. All in mint condition, these have been sourced from all over Europe, with some dating back to the mid-19th century. Each works perfectly, even the hand-cranked ones as well as the centrepiece 6m-tall fairground orgel illuminated by bright lights.

1981 Kanzanji-cho, Nishi-ku, Hamamatsu city, Shizuoka. Tel: +81-53-487-2121

Live and let dye Tucked away in a quiet residential neighbourhood in Hamamatsu sits this unassuming dyeing factory. Nihashi Dyeing Factory specialises in Enshu cotton, an indigenous textile of the region that uses a centuryold technique of dye craft. Experiment with this slice of traditional Japanese heritage at a hands-on dyeing workshop, making multi-coloured motifs of the city on a cotton scarf. Then head behind the scenes to observe the artisans going about their craft as they carefully hang their freshly dyed fabrics from the ceiling to dry.

138-14 Tokiwa-cho, Naka-ku, Hamamatsu city, Shizuoka. Tel: +81-53-452-2686

In perfect harmony If you’ve played on a Yamaha keyboard, chances are it was made here. Hamamatsu is home to Yamaha Corporation’s headquarters, where you can visit the Yamaha Innovation Road museum. This is a treat for music fans to learn about the music instrument maker’s 130-plus years of history, from its first reed organ to the latest in audio technology, and see multisensorial exhibits. One even lets you “play” in a virtual band on stage. Reservations are a must.

Wondering where to have lunch, tea or dinner in Hamamatsu? We’ve got you sorted. Treat yourself

They’ve got the power You’ve heard of superfoods, packed with nutrition and great for your health. Hamamatsu has its own category called power foods, all from the rich natural environments of Hamamatsu and Lake Hamana — eel (unagi), soft-shell turtle (suppon), wild pufferfish (fugu), green mud crab (douman), Mineno beef, blackthroat seaperch (nodoguro) and more. One place to try these local specialities is Restaurant Doman at the Hotel CONCORDE Hamamatsu. At this kaiseki restaurant, Head Chef Koji Ono transforms these bountiful ingredients into a multi-course meal of serious delicacies. Think seasonal dishes, perfectly turned out, like grilled unagi, young green onion shoots (menegi) sushi and crab somen.

109-18 Motoshiro-cho, Naka-ku, Hamamatsu city, Shizuoka. Tel: +81-53-487-0990

(Above) Unagi chazuki, with dashi broth poured over the grilled eel and rice

Bruschetta, seasonal vegetables and bean dip (below); zucchini and crab pasta (right)

Farm-to-table fare After taking over his grandparents’ farm, Shuta Furuhashi wanted to showcase pesticide-free vegetables and seasonal herbs from the area. The result is Shushu, a little Italian eatery that’s popular with city folk from Hamamatsu. Run by Shuta and his wife, Shushu offers wonderful renditions of European fare, such as bruschetta and gnocchi, using local ingredients. A standout is Pizza Shirasu (right), with its superthin, Roman-style crust topped with the namesake tiny fish, garlic, onion as well as parmesan and parmigiana cheese. Salty and savoury, this is a crispy flavour bomb.

3065-6 Kohitomicho, Nishi-ku, Hamamatsu, Shizuoka. Tel: +81-53-522-7786

Steep in the right direction Within the hushed grounds of Hamamatsu Castle Park is the teahouse, Shouintei. While it may be small, its charm lies in its casual Japanese tea ceremony experience that is welcoming to everyone. There’s none of the stiff formality one often finds elsewhere and the friendly women who wait on you are more than happy to chat as they serve matcha or sencha (whole leaf green tea) with Japanese wagashi (traditional sweets). Have a sip, relax and enjoy the view of its small but perfectly manicured garden that changes hues with each season.

11-4 Shikatani-cho, Naka-ku, Hamamatsu city, Shizuoka. Tel: +81-53-473-4310

KOJI ONO

Head Chef, Restaurant Doman

Born and raised in Hamamatsu, this friendly chef is a board member of the Hamamatsu Power Food Association, which was started in April 2019 by local farmers and producers.

Why are Hamamatsu power foods so special? It all started with the legendary shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu (1543 to 1616), who unified Japan and lived in Hamamatsu for 17 years. He was known to eat the food of the area, so when he was promoted, people began to think that Hamamatsu was a source of healthy food. We are known throughout Japan for our warmer climate and long life, as well as our food. It’s also important that the food from this area is cooked with the local water — so our cooking has harmony and balance. Hamamatsu power foods are very nutritious.

In what ways do you cook Hamamatsu power foods at the restaurant? I use simple techniques to showcase the flavours. I do not want to kill the taste of the vegetables, meat or seafood, which have a natural sweetness and umami. My favourite power food dish is nodoguro (blackthroat seaperch), simply grilled with salt.

What is your ultimate goal for Hamamatsu power foods? I hope there is no end. We think of Japanese kaiseki as coming from Kyoto. But I want our customers to recognise that Hamamatsu can also do kaiseki style well using power foods.

Time for tea Green tea accessories can sometimes be quite staid. But purpose-built cannisters made from washi paper are handy for storing loose leaf tea like sencha. You’ll find modern designs at Muramatsu Shoten, along with cute tin cannisters and ceramic teacups and teapots.

2365 Nishiyama-cho, Nishi-ku, Hamamatsu city, Shizuoka. Tel: +81-53- 485-8526

What to take home from Hamamatsu. Souvenir shopping

Music to our ears You can’t leave Hamamatsu without a music box. And you can find a treasure trove at the gift shop at the Hamanako Orgel Museum. Our favourites are the adorable versions, such as sumo wrestlers in a ring, and the music boxes hidden in a tiny sneaker.

1981 Kanzanji-cho, Nishi-ku, Hamamatsu city, Shizuoka. Tel: +81-53-487-2121

A shoyu thing If you want a food souvenir, pick up Takamine sauce made by Meijiya Shoyu. To make the sauce, apples from Minami Shinshu Ina are simmered with Japanese carrots and tomatoes for two days. The result is a mellow condiment that’s well balanced and sweet. Available in spicy and umami Worcestershire, refreshing Nakano, and thick, sweet and rich tonkatsu sauces.

2276 Komatsu, Hamakita-ku, Hamamatsu city, Shizuoka. Tel: +81-53-586-2053

All about HAMAMATSU & LAKE HAMANA Here’s what you need to know about this city in Shizuoka

SHIZUOKA PREFECTURE Nagoya Osaka Tokyo

HAMAMATSU Hamamatsu

Kosai BY TRAIN Tokaido Shinkansen Line

From Osaka

83 minutes by Hikari, 116 minutes by Kodama

From Nagoya

29 minutes by Hikari, 46 minutes by Kodama

From Shizuoka

27 minutes by Kodama

From Tokyo

89 minutes by Hikari, 120 minutes by Kodama

BY CAR Meishin and Tomei Expressway From Osaka: 282km From Tokyo: 230km

Special thanks to: Hamamatsu & Lake Hamana Tourism Bureau Mr Shinobu Meda, Mr Kenji Tamakoshi, Ms Sakurako Homme, Ms Minako Kouno, Mr Ayato Iwataya

5th Fl. Zazacity Hamamatsu Central 100-1 Kaji-machi, Naka-ku, Hamamatsu city, Shizuoka / +81-53-458-0011