A whole latte love

OISHII % Arabica at 313@Somerset

Japanese cafés mix artistic and scientifi c elements together

Victor Mah (left), President of the Singapore Coff ee Association and ASEAN Coff ee Federation, shares why Japanese cafés have such a hold on us. A whole LATTE LOVE related to their co ee production. For example, they manufacture their own  lter paper to be as natural and chemical-free as possible, and to the thickness they want — all these elements a ect the taste of the co ee.

Why are more Japanese cafés setting up shop in Singapore? Actually, Japanese co ee brands have had a presence in Singapore as far back as the 1980s.  ere was a counter café in Lucky Plaza run by a Japanese gentleman serving siphon co ee with Japanese toast and little snacks from Japan. More recently, we are seeing brands like % Arabica and Omotesando Ko ee open here.  is is because the younger generation are travelling to Japan — thanks in part to the advent of low-cost carriers — and after experiencing what they have to o er, they become enamoured by the concept and bring it back to Singapore.  e Japanese owners themselves are baristas too, who are young (in their 30s and 40s), well-travelled and want to expand their brand as a challenge to themselves.

How different are they from what is already available here? In Singapore, espresso-based co ees are most commonly available. What the Japanese bring are the siphon co ee style, which they invented, and the pour-over concept, which they have further improved from the original version.  ey have raised these to an unparalleled level of re nement and skill. An entire industry has sprung up in Japan around the paraphernalia

The Japanese have raised (the siphon co ee style and the pour-over concept) to an unparalleled level of refi nement and skill.

How popular are these Japanese cafés in Singapore?  ey are very popular. % Arabica has an outlet each in Arab Street and Somerset, and is opening a third in Chip Bee Gardens. I think what the Japanese cafés o er is something we can relate to because we are missing it here.  ey are very artistic and scienti c at the same time. In the pour-over method, for example, how hot the water is and the roast and grind of the co ee in uence its  avour in the cup. Even how hot water is poured into the  lter paper matters. If you sit and notice, the barista uses a circular motion until the water reaches a certain level and bubbles come up — we call this the bloom.  e preparation process and meticulous care taken to brew the co ee is a theatrical experience borne from the Japanese tea ceremony traditions.

What do Singaporeans enjoy most about these cafés? Firstly, it is the visual aspect. Look at the interior of the cafés. % Arabica, for instance, is very minimalist in style.  en we enjoy observing what the barista is doing — the artistic pride they have in the process and presentation is very much in uenced by the Japanese culture of artisanal craftsmanship. Today, we eat more with our eyes than our stomach. Finally, there is the taste.  e Japanese style of co ee uses a lighter roast, which means you taste more of the nuances like the acidity and fruitiness of the beans.

What future trends can Singaporeans expect to see here? I think you’ll see more smaller independent cafés from Tokyo, Osaka and Kyoto trying to come out here in joint ventures with younger entrepreneurs who are involved in the co ee industry.  ere is di erentiation between them in the type of co ee they serve, such as where they source the beans from and how they roast them.

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