Alluring Aichi

ALLURING AICHI Go on a holiday of a lifetime in Japan’s rustic heartland.

TEXT CHARMAINE CHAN

TOKONAME

MIHAMA NAGOYA

TOYOTA

HANDA

AICHI PREFECTURE

TOYOHASHI

HIMAKAJIMA

ocated in the Chubu region of Honshu island, Aichi Prefecture is almost smack in the middle of Japan.  e largest city here is Nagoya, while the economic powerhouse of the area is the automotive industry, home to the Toyota Motor Corporation, the world’s largest carmaker.

Leaving behind the urban areas and travelling south down the Chita Peninsula can reveal some o -the-beaten-track gems. Start your journey in the city of Handa, fragrant with its heady history of brewing some of the best sake and vinegar in the country.  en move down to Mihama, with its idyllic  ower and fruit farms extending as far as the eye can see, with  elds glazed with the gold of graceful sun owers under vast blue skies of endless sunshine. Follow the coast down past pristine beaches and crashing waves, all the way to the seaside resort island of Himakajima in Mikawa Bay before making your way back up to Tokoname, with its storied history of pottery making. Located next to Chubu Centrair International Airport, this gateway city is the perfect place to end your southern Aichi adventure.

 rough your journey, your taste buds will be taken on a rich odyssey as well. With Aichi’s coastal geography, you’ll  nd some of Japan’s very best seafood. Meat lovers can also rejoice, as pork from specially bred pigs and beef from cattle unique to the region provide a satisfying experience that cannot be replicated anywhere else in the country. City dwellers will be delighted by sophisticated o erings by chefs passionate about their craft, in charming cafés and restaurants located in small villages, lush gardens and even a converted clay kiln.

Turn the page and let the adventure begin. L

An enduring connection

From an individual named Yamamoto Otokichi to the Summer Olympics 2020, the bond between Mihama and Singapore continues to grow through the years.

hen the 14-year-old Mihama native named Yamamoto Otokichi started work as a sailor, he had no idea how much his life was to change. His journeys took him to North America, Britain and Macau before he  nally settled down in Singapore. And although the sunny isle proved to be the last chapter in his life, the fact that he was its very  rst Japanese resident, died and was buried there was enough to form a bridge between Singapore and Japan that continues to this day.

“He started a logistics company in Singapore,” says Koichi Saito (left), mayor of Mihama. “ e  rst Japanese company to be launched outside Japan.”

As he goes on to display photos of Otokichi’s grave in Singapore as well as diplomatic receptions in Singapore in 2009 with then-President SR Nathan with a Japanese delegation and the Japanese ambassador, it is clear that SingaporeJapan relations are close to his heart. W

PEOPLE OF MIHAMA

“Beyond 2020, I would want Singaporeans to know that they are always welcome in Mihama.”

OISHII Mihama and Singapore also started a student exchange programme that has been running since 2005. For example, Ngee Ann Secondary regularly hosts student delegations from Kowa Junior High and Noma Junior High in Mihama, even as it sends its own groups across for cultural immersion programmes that involve the students in everything from orange picking to kendo sparring to participating in the traditional tea ceremony.

Next year’s Summer Olympics and Paralympics are going to bring this relationship one notch closer, as Mihama has been designated one of Singapore’s 2020 Arigato Host Towns, taking care of the Singaporean Olympic and Paralympic contingents. “We won’t be providing the accommodation,” clari es Saito. “But we will be providing the cultural experience for the Singaporeans.”

 is will include putting together an activity- lled programme to educate the visitors on the region’s history and culture, as well as  shing, farming and harvesting experiences. And of course, sporting events that will make full use of the Nihon Fukushi University facilities. “We will also be organising festivals, welcoming parties and holding receptions for the athletes,” says Saito.

His hope is that the cross-cultural relationship continues beyond the Olympic excitement, well into the future. “Beyond 2020, I would want Singaporeans to know that they are always welcome in Mihama.”

Munching on morsels Mihama has excellent snacks — sweet and savoury — to nibble on.

Cracking good fun

One of the most delicious snacks in the area is churned out by Ebisenbei-no-Sato, a renowned maker of prawn crackers. Take a visit to their mega store and factory, where 400 million crackers are made a day, baked fresh by pressing between metal plates heated to 200 deg Celsius. On weekends, they o er visitors a chance to make their own giant cracker (30cm in diameter). Hooded and aproned, you will get to pour a dollop of a thick octopus, prawn, black sesame and potato paste onto a hot griddle pan. After the lid goes down, the cracker is baked for precisely three and a half minutes, before it is removed. You then get to draw a design on it in a sauce, before it is dried for another two minutes, then packaged for you to bring home. Designing your own crackers at Ebisenbei-no-Sato

52-1 Kittanagare, Kitagata, Mihama, Aichi 470-2403

Sweets for my sweet At the helm of a 150-year-old, thirdgeneration business is Yasuhiro Chaya, who runs Amebun.  e little confectionery store is renowned for its taihou maki, also known as the longest sweet produced in Japan. Each one is 30cm long and hand-rolled, with  llings that are also made by hand. Standard items feature sweet red bean and arrowroot, but limited-edition o erings have  llings made from seasonal produce, like yuzu, matcha as well as cherry leaves and  owers. People travel here from across the country to buy this unique confectionery, and Chaya makes 500 to 600 a day to keep up with demand. His autumn o erings of sweet potato and chestnut maki? “I just sold out of them completely,” he admits with a laugh.

Trying the longest sweet produced in Japan, taihou maki, from Amebun

AMAKI EIGO Owner of Joyful Farm Unoike PEOPLE OF MIHAMA

This spritely and energetic 82-year-old farmer works 5.30am to 4pm every single day, with no time o .

How big is your farm and what does it grow? It’s 10,000sqm in size and we grow strawberries, oranges, sweet potatoes, Japanese radishes and grapes. Our main crops are strawberries, which are grown in greenhouses.

What does the name of your farm mean? “Unoike” means “the pond of cormorant”. The cormorant is a native bird of our region and is considered a treasure of our community — its waste is a valuable fertiliser for our crops. This has been recognised from the Edo period. We have earned money selling it to neighbouring areas, enough money to build an elementary school. Because of the bird, the use of guns is prohibited here — the sound of it scares them.

You also run a restaurant called Unomi. Why? I wanted to serve oshizushi, or pressed sushi, which is a regional speciality. It is a celebration food, made for the new year or weddings. It is time-consuming to make — it takes four people one hour to do one plate. And with the rising demands for speed and convenience, people have stopped making it so it is getting harder to fi nd. But I think it’s important to preserve the tradition.

MAKING AMARK

Nihon Fukushi University explores a global outreach as it celebrates its past and looks to the future.

Satoru Maruyama, chair of the board of trustees at Nihon FukuA s it marks its 66 th

anniversary this year, Nihon Fukushi University has much to celebrate. Not only does it boast the largest online student enrolment in Japan (numbers stand at 7,000 currently), it is also the oldest university in the country with social welfare roots. This is something that Mr Satoru Maruyama, the chair of the board of trustees, is understandably proud of. “Social welfare to me is about taking care of the elderly and disabled in our society,” he explains. “So much of our original curriculum was — and is — focused on turning out graduates who can manage homes for the elderly and plan our communities to factor in their needs.”

Since the institution started with the faculty of social welfare (then called Chubu Junior College of Social Work) in 1953, the school has grown to become a full-fledged university with four graduate schools and eight faculties: nursing, economics, sports sciences, healthcare management, international welfare development, child development and health sciences. Today, it sprawls across four campuses in Mihama, Tokai, Handa and Nagoya, with about 12,000 students in total. Each campus has a different focus: Nagoya’s graduate schools, Handa’s faculty of health sciences and Tokai’s nursing, economics and international welfare faculties. Satoru Maruyama, chair of the board of trustees at Nihon Fukushi University

The indoor basketball courts with the jogging track running around its perimeter on the second fl oor

The rest of the faculties are at the main campus in Mihama — child development, healthcare management, sports sciences and of course, social welfare. Sports sciences is one of the more newly established faculties, and it offers courses in sports technology, management and education. The facilities are impressive, with extensive playing fields, wellequipped gyms, spacious dance studios and swimming pools, one of which is used for rehabilitative purposes and can be adjusted for depth. Two gleaming indoor basketball courts also sit side by side, framed by a jogging track that runs along its perimeter on the second floor, offering a good view of the action on the court.

Thinking global All of the courses at Nihon Fukushi are entirely in Japanese, something Mr Maruyama would like to do something about. “We would like to hire Englishspeaking lecturers,” he says. “Or perhaps to add English subtitles for those lectures that are recorded and broadcast.” This is part of the push at the university to help it grow from a local university to a centre of learning with international appeal.

In line with the same outward-looking approach, the university has established links with 13 different universities in nine countries in the region over the years: Malaysia, Thailand, Vietnam, Cambodia, South Korea, Taiwan, India, the Philippines and Australia. It runs an institution for foreign students called the Japanese Language Education Centre, which takes in about 1,500 students a year. The school has four-year courses that enable foreign students to acquire credits as they gradually transition into an undergraduate course at the university, especially in terms of the language. Singapore is notably absent from the list of countries the university has established affiliations with. “I would really like to change this,” says Mr Maruyama. “Singapore and Japan have much in common, especially in terms of an ageing population. As caring for the elderly is a focus here at this university, I believe we could learn a lot from each other in this area.” LEFT: The facilities and equipment of the sports sciences faculty make it a popular choice for students

BELOW: The gym is fi lled with everything you could need for a well-rounded workout

A dance studio

The swimming pool on the right can be adjusted for depth

F E A T U R E

A magical region Aside from food, Mihama and its surrounds in South Chita o er much to see and do. Stay for a few days and enjoy the beautiful beaches, rugged coastline and sparkling sea.

Light of love Built in 1921, Nomazaki Lighthouse is the oldest in Aichi Prefecture. It is still functioning today, thanks to a 2008 renovation that kitted it out with LED lights and made it more disaster resistant. Standing 18m tall, this lonely sentinel by the sea is popular with couples who believe that a xing a padlock nearby will be good for their relationship.  e original fence collapsed with the weight of them, so the authorities have constructed a sturdy one just for that purpose, on the plaza in front, along with a bell called the “Bell of Bonds”. Ring it, put a padlock on the fence and you might be assured of a happy ever after.

Locking a padlock for love near the Nomazaki Lighthouse

20-1 Iwanari, Onoura, Mihama, Chita, Aichi 470-3236

The inviting hot spring rock pools at Genjikoh

Playing the Heian-era game of Monko

Inn of delight Tourists who love everything Japanese should book a stay at Genjikoh, a traditional Japanese inn on the Chita coast that o ers a unique cultural experience. Not only do they have charming Japanese-style rooms, they also boast a bathhouse on the 10th  oor with hot spring rock pools, as well as a variety of di erent tubs — cypress, large jars or even one where you can lie down fully. All these are located on a large balcony so you can enjoy views of the sparkling sea as you soak. Take the experience a notch further by donning a heavily embroidered uchikake (a formal kimono) for a photo (left) or play Monko, a game from the Heian period, where participants try to guess the scent of incense through a series of graceful ritualistic moves. An added bonus?  e inn started o ering halal meals last year. Tourists who love everything Japanese should book a stay at Japanese inn on the Chita coast that o ers a unique cultural experience. Not only do they have charming Japanese-style rooms, they also boast a bathhouse on the 10th  oor with hot spring rock pools, as well as a variety of di erent tubs — cypress, large jars or even one where you can lie down fully. All these are located on a large balcony so you can enjoy views of the sparkling sea as you soak. Take the experience a notch further by donning a heavily embroidered uchikake (a formal kimono) for a photo (left) or play Monko, a game from the Heian period, where participants try to guess the scent of incense through a series of graceful ritualistic moves. An added bonus?  e inn started o ering halal meals last year.

Monumental man A visit to the area must include a look at the newly unveiled statue of Yamamoto Otokichi, especially for Singaporeans.  e adventurous Mihama native travelled the world, became a British citizen and lived in Macau, but forged enduring ties between our little red dot and Japan by becoming the very  rst Japanese resident of Singapore. Sailor, trader, translator and businessman, Otokichi is also notable for helping to translate the Bible into Japanese.

Fukushima, Onoura, Mihama, Aichi 470-3236

Fields of gold From June to December every year, vast  elds in Minamichita turn gold, with the graceful heads of sun owers tilted in exactly the same direction, facing the sun.  e stunning sight of this, as well as  elds carpeted in di erent vivid colours when other  owers like Mexican asters and poppies bloom are what attracts droves of people to Kanko Noen Hana Hiroba, a farm in south Chita. For a  at fee, visitors get to roam and take pictures to their hearts’ content, as well as pick 10  owers to bring home. If the season is right, they can harvest watermelons and pick strawberries as well. Vegetables are also grown on-site, with Chinese cabbage, radishes and broccoli  ourishing in the mild climate and rich soil of the region.

48 Takamidai, Toyohama, Minamichita, Aichi 470-3411

Ready for a soak at Kanpo-noYado, Chita Mihama

Modern comfort Kanpo-no-Yado, Chita Mihama is located by the sea and o ers beds, baths and blowout meals — everything a traveller could want. Wash away the grime of the road in the bathhouse on the second  oor, with its individual shower stalls and large hot pool.  en head for the 13-course kaiseki dinner served in the dining room (clad in the hotel yukata if you want!) and enjoy a beautiful symphony of food — from fresh sashimi to  sh hotpot and rice mixed with chestnuts and mushrooms, an autumn speciality. By the time you sink into your clean, comfortable bed, you’ll be in a state of full-belly bliss. Modern comfort

Whether it’s dinner or dessert, here’s what to sit down to in the Mihama area. Marvellous meals

Passionate about parfaits Trained as a pastry chef, Takeji Nagase (above) of Fraisvert Radieux has become more of an ice cream specialist. His dessert café features no fewer than 30  avours made from scratch, including passionfruit and coconut water.  ese ice creams form the foundation of his famous parfaits, each one beautifully constructed. For instance, the Tiara Strawberry Parfait (centre) is a study of a single  avour, found in the compote, sponge and ice creams. “One ice cream is made with strawberries from France, the other with strawberries from Japan,” he explains with a smile.

14-1 Tachido, Kitagata, Mihama, Aichi 470-2403

Shrimply the best Seafood lovers will be in paradise at Uotaro Main Store, with its huge  sh market and restaurants. At the BBQ eatery by the beach, you can pick fresh seafood, meats and vegetables for a  at fee.  en head to a table outside, each with its own individual grill for you to grill your selections (right). With a cold beer in hand, salt air in your hair and the quality of the food, don’t be surprised if you eat more than you expect.

Pleasures of pork Mihama successfully bred a type of pig without the usual six strains of bacteria and launched it in February 2017.  e meat from such pigs, called Koibiton pork, is only available at restaurants in Mihama city like Kitajo, which specialises in tonkatsu (left). Set lunches o er the pork cutlet with a perfectly cooked egg melting its creamy yolk into the accompanying sauce.  e batter is crisp and light as air, while the meat is thick, tender and  avourful.

124-3 Ochasen, Okuda, Mihama, Aichi 470-3233

Explore this tiny isle just o the coast of the Chita Peninsula in Mikawa Bay. Highlights of Himaka Island

ust a 10-minute ferry ride from Morozaki Port in Minamichita, Himaka Island or Himakajima is so small that it takes only about 30 minutes to drive around.  e 1,900-strong population either work in  shing or tourism. A popular summer destination for domestic tourists, people come from all over Japan to enjoy the beaches, snorkel, windsurf, dig for clams and savour fresh seafood. J

Octopus dishes are a big feature at restaurants in Himaka Island

Swing over the sea Up on a small hill near Sunrise Beach is one of the island’s most Instagrammed spots. Called Heidi’s Swing or Lover’s Swing (and it can seat two at a push!), it o ers visitors the exhilarating experience of sitting in the dappled shade of a tree and  ying out over the calm blue waters of Mikawa Bay.

Spot the octopus and the pufferfi sh  e island’s undisputed mascot is the octopus, with the pu er sh coming a close second. Even the manhole covers here (left) are festooned with an engraving of tako or fugu.  e tiny museum features the pots traditionally used by  shermen to catch octopus (above) as well as displays of fugu art, crafted from exquisitely thin, translucent slices of pu er sh. And of course, both tako and fugu feature prominently on restaurant menus here.

These must-have food souvenirs from Himaka Island are inspired by octopus and oranges. Flavours of island life

Dry your own octopus Many seafood shops on the island o er tourists a taste of what it’s like to prepare octopus (below).  e experience involves cleaning a large raw octopus, cutting and slicing it to remove its eyes and brain, then rubbing it liberally with salt before washing it thoroughly under running water. After that, it is marinated in a mixture of soya sauce, sugar and sake, before being hooked up and dried — stretched out to the full width of its tentacles (above). From May to July, when winds are high, drying can take only a day. Dry your own octopus

Tako manju Don’t let its name fool you.  is sweet, spongy cake isn’t  lled with octopus but smooth red bean paste. Named for its shape, not its taste, tako manju is probably the island’s most famous edible souvenir. People come all the way to the island to buy them from Kamome Baiten, a shop o ering local snacks. Made fresh at the shop (you can watch the automated process through the glass window at the front), tako manju is packed into boxes of six or 12. Here, the adorable cakes are shaped like mini cartoon octopus. If you’re lucky, you might  nd one or two shaped like pu er sh in your box.

Tako meshi Raw and marinated octopus is cut into chunks and stirred into this ready mix. Just drop the mix into your rice as it is cooking to add the island’s inimitable  avour to your everyday meal.

Tako curry  is convenient curry paste features chunks of boiled octopus from Himaka Island. Place the whole sachet in boiling water for three to  ve minutes.  en pour it out over steaming white rice and you have a meal to remind you of your time on the island.

Tako furikake  is traditional Japanese seasoning is made of dried octopus, sesame, potato and seaweed. Sprinkle it over your rice to perk up its  avour.

Tako sake Made in Handa city specially for Himaka Island, this sake has a fresh fragrance, a fruity  avour and is extremely easy to drink. A popular drink in the region is mikanshu no sake, or tangerine sake. Fresh oranges grown in the area are squeezed and mixed with

alcohol.  e result is refreshing and citrusy, and pairs perfectly with the region’s fresh seafood. Minamichita Mogitate Mikan Sake

Quench your curiosity with these gastronomic museums of Handa. Taste for tradition Taste for

Red brick restoration One of the most outstanding buildings in the city of Handa must be the Kabuto Beer Museum, also known as the Handa Red Brick Building. Constructed in 1898, it housed the brewery of a famous local beer that won a gold medal at the 1900 Paris Exposition. Kabuto Beer ceased production in 1921 while the company underwent mergers and rebranding, eventually coming up with the famous Sapporo and Asahi labels. Today, the building stands as a beautifully restored example of Meiji-era architecture, exceedingly rare because of its red brick construction, multi-layered cavity walls and brick-arch  oors.  e beer resumed production in 2005 in very limited quantities. Order a bottle or two in a Handa restaurant or bar, and enjoy a crisp, refreshing taste of history.

8 Enokishita-cho, Handa, Aichi. Tel: +81-569-24-7031

Veering into vinegar You wouldn’t have thought that something as prosaic as vinegar would deserve an entire museum, but when the area is Handa and the vinegar is the famous Mizkan brand, the result is both elegant and e ective. Paying tribute to the roots of a vinegar empire that still dominates today, Mizkan Museum (MIM) utilises interactive exhibits, sophisticated videos, beautifully shot  lms and fun displays to relive the history of vinegar-making in the area.  e museum sits by the Handa Canal, reminding visitors — as does an impressive full-sized wooden replica of a boat inside MIM — of how their products once sailed through the channel and onto the high seas, bringing Mizkan magic all the way from Handa to Tokyo, and all around Japan.

2-6 Nakamura-cho, Handa, Aichi 475-8585

A sip of sake history A sake museum established by Nakano Sake Brewery, Kunizakari Sake no Bunkakan Museum is housed in a 200-year-old building that was used to brew sake until 1972. Check out the huge wooden vats and the giant Amida wheel (3m in diameter) hanging from the ceiling, which once transported the vats from the  rst to the second  oor of the brewery. Don’t miss the fascinating diorama of sake production in the Edo period, with various stages depicted by handmade paper dolls polishing, washing and steaming rice, as well as fermenting,  ltering and bottling the alcohol.  ere is information about the special types of rice that are used for sake making, as well as displays of the traditional tools of the trade, including a cleverly designed porcelain sake warmer. Today, production takes place in premises that are 300m away. Brewery tours and sake tastings can be arranged through advance bookings.

Savour the fl avour Started in 1919, Yutaka Foods celebrates its 100th birthday this year. “I can’t really say we’ve been doing what we do for 100 years though,” says Kenji Achiwa, of Yutaka Foods, candidly. “We actually started out selling wood. But looking at trends and anticipating demand, we changed direction about 75 years ago and started making soya sauce instead.” It proved to be a fortuitous switch. Today, the company has grown into a seasoning giant, famous for its dashi soup stocks in powder and liquid form. Also just as well known are its instant noodles and its sauces for grilled unagi and sashimi. In addition to the factory at its headquarters in Taketoyo (along with an o ce building that is as old as the company — 100 years old!), Yutaka Foods also opened the second factory in Tottori Prefecture just last year.

34-1 Kawawaki, Taketoyo, Aichi 470-2395

There’s no shortage of good food in Handa city. From beef to seafood, there’s lots to satiate your cravings. Surfand

Don’t be shellfi sh Seafood is the order of the day at Uotaro Kura-no-machi where meals don’t come with a side dish but a full appetiser bu et (right) instead. For your mains, take your pick from crispy tempura, boiled or grilled  sh, fresh sashimi or deep-fried shrimp. Prefer other dishes? You’re sorted as the restaurant also o ers deep-fried pork with miso sauce and Chita beef. Round o the meal with a wide selection of bottled beers, sake and shochu.

1-33-2 Nakamura-cho, Handa, Aichi 475-0873

turf

Let’s meat up In Japan, cows are generally bred for meat or milk. But cattle from Chita are unusual in that they are bred both for milk and meat.  e result is delicious. One of the best places to taste Chita beef is Kuroushi-No-Sato, a cosy yakiniku restaurant where you can cook your own meal over a hot grill. Each diner receives a platter (below) of di erent cuts of raw beef (some in chunks, some in thin slices), innards, raw vegetables — onions, green peppers, potatoes and pumpkin — as well as rice, pickles and miso soup. Be prepared for tender, juicy beef that explodes in the mouth in a burst of rich  avour. You’ll walk away satis ed — yet somehow craving more.

4-109-1 Yanabe Nishimachi, Handa, Aichi 475-0966. Tel: +81-569-23-8672

KAWAGUCHI YOSHINORI Owner of Handa Station Hotel

Tell us why you believe your hotel is lucky. One of my favourite stories is of a time when the famous singer Toshi, from the rock band X Japan, stayed here. When he came here, he had left the band and embarked on a solo career but was struggling and in a slump. He was also going through a bad patch with his wife, who he said was brainwashing him. After staying here, he divorced her, reunited with the band and his career fl ourished. It is believed that his one night here was the turning point that changed his life. The a able proprietor of this cosy hotel believes that staying at his establishment brings good fortune.

Could that have been just a coincidence? Too many good things have happened to our guests. Handa hosts a national high school softball competition. The team from Kyushu, which is not a strong team, stayed here and won! Also, there is a short fi lm competition held near here every year, and for fi ve years in a row — 2014 to 2019 — the participants who have stayed here have won.

Why do think all this happens to your guests? I think it’s due to the location of the hotel. We are actually near the Sumiyoshi Shrine and a lot of people come to visit it. We are situated on the road to the shrine, so I think we are a “spiritual power spot”.

OISHII Stroll through the famous pottery footpath and the lucky cats of Tokoname (right and below)

A walk through time Located on the western coast of the Chita Peninsula in southern Aichi, the city of Tokoname has a long and storied history of pottery.

apan has six cities famous for ceramics, and Tokoname is the oldest, having manufactured pots since the end of the Heian period (794 to 1185).  e rich soil of the area birthed a thriving industry. At its peak, the city boasted no fewer than 3,000 kilns, making everything from clay sewage pipes and multi-purpose tiles to decorative lucky cats (manekineko) and delicate tea ceremony accessories.

After World War II, production was modernised and many kilns were shut down to protect the air quality. But that heritage is still in full evidence today, a feature the city celebrates by preserving historic pottery districts and repurposing disused kilns.

One of the best ways for tourists to get a feel of the city is to go on a pottery tour. Omotenashi Tours o ers a range of walking and cycling tours that incorporate some of the must-sees of Tokoname. Highlights include stops at the INAX MUSEUMS (see next page) and the famous pottery footpath, with walls studded with di erent artistic

interpretations of the lucky cat, that culminates with the giant version, called Tokonyan, that stands 3.8m high and 6.3m wide.

 ere are also strolls through a historic pottery neighbourhood, with old kilns, artisanal studios and charming shops. Snap photos at the picturesque Dokanzaka street, lined on one side with earthen pipes from the Meiji era, and liquor jars from the Showa period on the other side.  e steep path itself is embedded with clay rings, repurposed from the kilns, which makes it less hazardous to walk upon.

Visitors can also get to paint and glaze their own manekineko, pick up ceramic souvenirs and take a break at the Dokanzaka resthouse to enjoy stunning views of the sea while enjoying traditional sweets and sipping tea from a cup that is a beautiful example of the local craft. 3,000 kilns, making everything from clay sewage pipes and multi-purpose tiles to decorative lucky cats (manekineko) and delicate tea ceremony accessories. protect the air quality. But that heritage is still in full evidence today, a feature the city celebrates by preserving historic pottery districts and repurposing disused kilns. Omotenashi Tours the must-sees of Tokoname. Highlights include stops at the INAX MUSEUMS (see next page) and the famous pottery footpath, with walls studded with di erent artistic

interpretations of the lucky cat, that culminates with the giant version, called Tokonyan, J Hop on your bike for a tour through Tokoname to see sights like the Tokonyan cat

Whether you prefer the traditional and unique or the convenient and functional, Tokoname’s wide range of accommodation will have something for everyone. Staythe night

Charming and cultural Getting to stay in a 120-year-old building is a unique experience not o ered by many. But if you manage to snag a room at the Airbnblisted Nincha Guesthouse, you can consider yourself fortunate. O ering accommodation for no more than  ve people, Nincha opened in April 2019 and o ers guests an authentic experience, with tatami mats, sliding screen doors and traditional futon as bedding. “It took two years of renovation work,” says guesthouse owner Akiko Mase. “I retained the structure and roof but put in new  ooring, plumbing and electricity.” She is currently working on the garden and planning tea rooms for tea ceremonies. “I like to keep traditions. I hope Nincha gives people an opportunity to explore a bit more and discover all the things the area has to o er.”

4-113 Sakaemachi, Tokoname, Aichi 479-0836

ADVERTORIAL

Fired up by history Make an interesting pit stop on your Tokoname tour at INAX MUSEUMS.

Convenient and practical One of the major advantages of J-Hotel Rinku is its location, situated a stone’s throw away from Chubu Centrair International Airport. Indeed, the hotel opened shortly after the airport did in 2006. Today, it has established itself as a handy port of call for visitors, with 180 clean, comfortable rooms attracting everyone from travelling businessmen to air crew to tourists. Don’t miss the hotel’s generous breakfast bu et, o ering regional specialities like red miso soup and kushikatsu, deep-fried and skewered pork with miso sauce. Other hot dishes include simmered root vegetables, grilled  sh, spaghetti and a selection of omelettes (plain, mushroom or sausage and bacon). Salads with hijiki seaweed, Brussels sprouts and pumpkin, as well as breads, cereals, yoghurts and fruit round o the spread.

3-2-1 Rinku-cho, Tokoname, Aichi 479-0882

Aplace worthy of more than a few hours is INAX MUSEUMS, which is a compound featuring six buildings. Three of them — the Architectural Terracotta Museum, Tile Museum and Kiln Plaza — showcase the rich history of clay not just in the area but around the world.

Worth a peek is the Kiln Plaza, which is a kiln from 1921 that has been converted into a museum. But it is the Tile Museum that will probably take up most of your time as it houses the fascinating private collection of Masayuki Yamamoto, a tile scholar. His donation to the museum is made up of tiles that date back to ancient Mesopotamia.

Travel through time and around the world as you take in blue tiles from Egypt, intricate mosaics from Morocco, shiny majolica versions from Spain as well as glossy, vividly coloured British tiles that inspired the famous Peranakan ones from our part of the world. Compare blue and white tilework from Holland with porcelain of China and Japan, while marvelling at the di erent techniques of cutwork, metallic glazing and coloured inlays.

Inspired for more? Head to one of the other three buildings within the compound (the Clay Works and Tiling Workshop), which o er visitors the opportunity to get hands on with classes, workshops and activities. Mould a shiny clay ball or put together your own mosaic creation — and show the world the spirit of monozukuri (the making of things).

1-130 Okuei-cho, Tokoname, Aichi 479-8586. Tel: +81-569-34-8282

The best eats and drinks to be found in Tokoname. Tickle your taste buds

A labour of love Imagine running a restaurant in a remote village that only serves 16 people a day.  en winning recognition from both the Gault&Millau and Michelin guides such that there is now a one-month booking wait list.  is is exactly what happened to chef Watanabe Daisuke (right), who opened Le Coeuryuzu in May 2017. Serving up innovative French fusion food, he uses only local produce. Formally trained in Nagoya, Daisuke discovered a  air for French cuisine early on. Eating his food is a revelation for the senses. Standouts include guinea fowl from his hometown of Iwate and a divine dessert of  gs marinated in wine and sugar. “I’ve never liked to copy anyone,” says Daisuke, describing his style. “I like to create everything myself.  is is who I am.” in May 2017. Serving up innovative French fusion food, he uses only local produce. Formally

3-143-1 Kumano-cho, Tokoname, Aichi 479-0817. Tel: +81-569-56-9403

Mad about mochi Café and shop Ookuramochi is something of an institution, a place to grab a box of sweets or savour them while enjoying a view of the immaculate courtyard garden. Inaba Noritatsu carries on the business started in 1950 by his grandfather, maintaining standards like grinding his own matcha and using rice from a speci c farm in Chita for his handmade mochi. “We only use local products,” he says proudly.  e shop is famous for Ookura mochi (mugwort rice cakes with sweet red bean  lling) as well as shaved ice creations like Matcha Milk Kintoki. Big on tradition, the shop isn’t afraid of experimenting either, o ering a unique savoury dish called Kaiunkouhakuzouni — mentaiko mochi with spinach, bonito,  sh cake and tofu in clear seaweed dashi. “I created it because I wanted to eat it,” says Noritatsu with a smile.

2-2-1 Koiehonmachi, Tokoname, Aichi 479-0838. Tel: +81-569-35-2676

For the sake of sake When you’ve been making sake for 170 years, it’s safe to say you have the methods honed to perfection. Such is the case for Sawada sake brewery in Tokoname, where no detail is overlooked. For instance, the water is piped in from the Chita Peninsula

mountains 2km away and the wooden vats used are constructed out of cedar trees that are at least 100 years old (left).  e result is a range of famous sake and plum wines that have been popular for many years — the most famous of which is HAKUROU. mountains 2km away and the wooden vats used are constructed out of cedar trees that are at least 100 years old (left).  e result is a range of famous sake and plum wines that have been popular for many years — the most famous of which is HAKUROU.

Bold look and fl avours Kyouei-gama bar and bistro has an ambience that is hard to beat. Housed in a converted clay kiln, the 80-seater boasts Meiji-era architecture with retained structural features like the chimney and tunnel arches.  e menu has a decidedly European in uence — order the prawn and lemon risotto, or a creamy pate with a charcuterie platter that pairs well with the delicious cocktails crafted by an in-house mixologist. Desserts include crisp French toast with piped chestnut and accompanied by pear sorbet. Meiji-era architecture with retained structural features like the chimney and tunnel arches.  e menu has a decidedly European in uence — order the prawn and lemon risotto, or a creamy pate with a charcuterie platter that pairs well with the delicious cocktails crafted by an in-house mixologist. Desserts include crisp French toast with piped chestnut and accompanied by pear sorbet.

Taking flight Take a look at this unique food and activity section inside an airport.

You can’t miss the Flight of Dreams area (right) at Chubu Centrair International Airport. Opened in autumn 2018, the space is distinguished by a Boeing 787 Dreamliner, referencing how 35 per cent of 787s are built in Japan’s Chubu region.  e eateries and bars here also celebrate Boeing’s roots as they’re grouped under a distinct theme — Seattle Terrace. Y

Shiro dreams of sushi In 1972, Shiro Kashiba opened a sushi restaurant in Seattle.  e Kyoto native, who trained under the legendary Jiro Ono in Tokyo, wanted to introduce Americans to this most beloved of Japanese foods. He was successful beyond his wildest dreams. Now he has opened his  rst outpost in his home country here at Seattle Terrace. Favourites at Shiro Kashiba Sushi Express include uramaki (inside-out sushi) and Seattle rolls (salmon and avocado sushi). Americans to this most beloved of Japanese foods. He

Second fl oor, Seattle Terrace, Flight of Dreams, Chubu Centrair International Airport. Tel: +81-569-84-7655

Cruise control A station away from Chubu Centrair International Airport is Toyota Rental & Leasing, with its  eet of about 70 cars as well as sta who can speak English, Chinese and Japanese. Another plus is the comfortable lounge (above), with plush couches and thoughtfully appointed bathrooms. If you’ve just stepped o a long  ight, you can take a hot shower as the paperwork is prepared. Or just  ip through a magazine and enjoy an Americano from the co ee machine. Before you know it, your rental car will be ready.

Sip on Seattle craft beer  e only branch of Seattle-based independent beer brewery  e Pike Brewing,  e Pike here o ers six fan-favourite craft beers.  ese are brewed in the US and imported into Japan, just like the beef used to craft its burgers. While the food is solidly American, the  avours have been adapted to suit Japanese taste buds. “Our chef was sent to the US to train but he’s made the food more umami,” says Takashi Hoshihara, who runs the establishment. “Now even American customers tell us they prefer the food here!” Sip on Seattle craft beer

Third fl oor, Seattle Terrace, Flight of Dreams, Chubu Centrair International Airport. Tel: +81-569-38-7338

Ready to go As Japan’s reputation for excellent food grows, so has travellers’ demand for packaged premium produce to bring home. Hence the opening in May 2016 of duty-free shop Oishii Premium Selection, with its selection of beef, seafood and fruit. Helpful information displayed tells you which countries you are allowed to bring the items into. For example, crabs, roe and spiny lobster are not allowed into Singapore, but salmon and scallops are. As Japan’s reputation for excellent food grows, so has travellers’ demand for packaged premium produce to bring home. Hence the opening in May 2016 of duty-free shop selection of beef, seafood and fruit. Helpful information displayed tells you which countries you are allowed to bring the items

At international departures after security check, Chubu Centrair International Airport. Tel: +81-569-38-7867

Reach for the sky O cially opened last August, Aichi Sky Expo is Japan’s fourth largest convention and exhibition centre at 60,000sqm, and the only one with a customs-free zone.  ere is 50,000sqm of space for trade shows and exhibitions, while a 10,000sqm exhibition hall also makes perfect sense for concerts and shows. A conference centre also accommodates meetings, conventions and corporate events of any size.

5-10-1 Centrair, Tokoname, Aichi 479-0881. Tel: +81-569-38-2361