nail couture
Issue 1(5) / 2015
New York Fashion Week 2015 Hot Nail Trends SRP R79.00 (RSA Only)
17
STEP-BY-STEP NAIL DESIGNS
French...Your Majesty:
Classic French is still a style
Wax on, Wax off: A way to boost your salon profit
AUTHORIZED DISTRIBUTOR
Exclusive Beauty Solutions Tel: +27 86 112 6374 or +27 11 791 4027 www.exclusivebeauty.co.za orders@exclusivebeauty.co.za
In my 19 years of being in the nail industry I have seen nail trends come and go, change and take a totally different shape and direction. Some of those trends I could predict and some just came as a total surprise for me. However, what staid as the constant is: it does not matter if your client is looking for a short and elegant one colour overlay, classic French or over-the-top decorated long extensions - she is looking for quality work. Quality is the basic and probably the most important criteria that apply to any service clients are looking for and quality is what really will keep them coming back. Quality of service starts with the right attitude, not only towards your client but towards your profession as well. Respecting your trade is just as important as respecting a client who is sitting in your chair. This means being fully committed to what you do, using only the good quality products, saying “no” to shortcuts, being always on schedule, investing in your personal growth by learning new techniques and keeping updated with the latest developments in the industry and keeping your workplace clean and safe for the client and yourself. All these criteria are detrimental to your success as a nail professional and if you are not prepared to commit fully to what you do, quit now! If you do, however feel that being a nail tech is your true calling, we at Nail Couture Magazine are 100% behind you – committed, inspired by your passion and love for this exciting and very rewarding profession. As from now, we have made a decision to make Nail Couture more affordable and more easily accessible. We have added quite a few new distributors to the list of existing ones, especially in outlying areas, and for your convenience the digital edition of Nil Couture is available online at a fraction of a price. This all was made possible by our advertisers who we would like to say big THANK YOU for all the support and trust they have given us since the start. As you can see, we are committed to your success and hope our commitment will be beneficial to the development of the nail industry and its exponential growth. Because if you grow, we grow with you! Best Wishes,
Oksana van Tonder
issue 1 (5) 2015
nail
Letter from the Editor
couture
editor’s page
Publisher Beauty Media Group (PTY) Ltd Postnet Suite 615 Private Bag X10 Elarduspark 0047 South Africa www.nailcouture.co.za Editor in Chief/Creative Director Oksana van Tonder info@nailcouture.co.za Distribution/Subscriptions sales@nailcouture.co.za Advertisement/Marketing Dawn Bredenkamp marketing@nailcouture.co.za Web/IT Illya Khimych webadmin@nailcouture.co.za
The publisher has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the accuracy of the information in this magazine and can not accept responsibility for errors and omissions from any information given in previous editions of this magazine or for any consequences arising thereof. This magazine contains material protected under International and South African Copyright Laws and Treaties. You may not publish, display, disclose, rent, lease, modify, loan, distribute, or create derivative works based on the magazine contents or any part thereof, whether by yourself or as a consultant, employee, partner or in any other role, unless authorized in writing by the Beauty Media Group PTY Ltd. Any information offered is expressly the opinion of the creator/ author of that material. It is respectfully offered to you to explore, in the hope and with the intention that exploring this material will be educational and helpful to you.
Oksana van Tonder Creative Director / Editor
nail couture
ssue 1(5) / 2015
New York Fashion Week 2015 Hot Nail Trends SR R79 00 (RSA Onl )
17
STEP BY STEP NAIL DESIGNS
French...Your Majesty:
Classic French is still a style
Wax on, Wax off: A way to boost your salon profit
On the Cover Nail Design & Photography: Elena Grama Educator at “American Beauty International”, National Nail Competition Judge, multiple winner of National and International Nail Competitions, Kiev, Ukraine
TO THE RESCUE RescueRXx™ Daily Keratin Treatment, a revolution in nail repair from CND. With daily use, peeling and white spots are dramatically reduced.
Clinically-Proven Results: Week 1: 80% noticed improvements 80% saw less white spots Week 4: 80% less peeling 73% less splitting
RescueRXx™ is a highly effective new treatment that repairs damaged nails with the power of Keratin protein and moisturizing jojoba oil. See a difference daily.
Exclusive Beauty Solutions Tel: +27 86 112 6374 or +27 11 791 4027 www.exclusivebeauty.co.za orders@exclusivebeauty.co.za
AUTHORIZED DISTRIBUTOR
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CONTENTS Issue 1(5) 2015 18
Nail School
42
Vitiligo
South African Nail Schools offering specialised nail technology training and nail art workshops
22
Nail Market
Learn about Vitiligo and how to treat clients affected by this condition
46
Classic french is still a style
48
Nail Chemistry
From nail artists all over the world
67
Callus Softeners All you need to know about callus softeners, their use and safety
34
Nail Fashion
Nail Art Class 17 Step by Step Nail Art Tutorials
Professional answers to reader’s questions on everything related to the nail industry
30
Nail Technique French...Your Majesty
The latest offerings from South African nail suppliers
26 Nail Q&A
Nail Health
Nail Art File 7 pages packed with nail art ideas from local and international nail designers
76
Special Feature
82
Nail Business
Hot Nail Trends from New York Fashion Week 2015
Wax On...Wax Off How to generate extra income by offering waxing services
Libertine and CND go all out
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Nail Case Acrylic Back to basics - All you need to know about Acrylics
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Nail Couture Magazine | Issue 1(5) 2015 | www.nailcouture.co.za
Preventing No-Shows and Late Arrivals Labour Relations in the Hairdressing, Cosmetology and Beauty Industry
180 Heart and Soul
181 182 Pursuit of Beauty The Artist’s Muse
183 Free Lovin’
184 Classic Jacquard
Discover the benefits of Bio Sculpture Gel: Suitable for both beginners and experienced nail technicians with over 140 UV & LED curable colours Comprehensive training countrywide with full ongoing support Nails remain healthy and undamaged, NO primers, bonders, odours or excessive buffing Nails can be repaired, lengthened, corrected and shaped, lasting up to 3 weeks Strong and flexible non-chip finish protecting the natural nail The only 5 star safety rated nail system that is 100% Vegan Natural nail health enhancing pre-treatments 0861 246 435
biosculpture.com
industry news
CND GLOBAL DISTRIBUTORS INTERNATIONAL CONFERENCE Exclusive Beauty Solutions owners, Dalize and Herman Havenga, recently attended the International conference for all CND Global Distributors in Dubai. The conference was hosted at the 5star Ritz Carlton Hotel, and was attended by distributors from all around the world. During this spectacular event, distributors were shown the vision for CND for the next 5 years. The nail professional will have lots to look forward to, because as usual CND will be bringing more innovation, new product launches to the nail industry, and staying ever true to the nail professional and the nail industry. Keep a lookout in Nail Couture magazine for all the new launches of products. So, keep watching this space!
SPARKLE COSMETICS IS THE NEW EXCLUSIVE DISTRIBUTOR FOR MILK SOLUTIONS Sparkle Cosmetics is excited to announce the addition of another top quality brand to the Sparkle family. As from the beginning of 2015 the company is the newly appointed exclusive distributor of the Milk Solutions brand – fully comprehensive manicure/pedicure range that is able to address and fulfil all the requirements of professional hand and foot treatments. Milk Solutions line of products enhances customer’s treatment experience, whilst offering superior, yet surprisingly affordable results. Advanced formulations enhanced by beautiful fragrances are used to ensure that your customer’s treatment is not only effective but also a truly memorable experience. Full range of retail products is also available for your customers to continue their professional experience between appointments at home. Email info@sparklesa.co.za for more information about Milk Solutions products or if you wish for a Sparkle Consultant to contact you.
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Nail Couture Magazine | Issue 1(5) 2015 | www.nailcouture.co.za
industry news
Polish Fit for a PRINCESS
Get Ready For The Royal Treatment! To celebrate the Walt Disney Pictures’ live-action film Cinderella, Morgan Taylor and Gelish are releasing new limited edition colour collection. The magic of the Cinderella film, which will be released in March 2015, can be translated onto nails with the unique, fairy-tale palette bound to charm any Prince. With six whimsical crème to sparkly Gelish shades, a trio of glitters from the Gelish Trends line, six romantic Morgan Taylor Lacquer shades and matching Duo Packs, any pick is perfect to spark anyone’s fancy accent this season with charm and grace. “We are absolutely honoured and ecstatic to collaborate with Disney on this line inspired by Cinderella movie,” said CEO and creator of Gelish, Danny Haile. “For this classic story, we really wanted to create an iconic selection. Drawing inspiration from the movie, we were inspired to develop colours and statement glitters in soft, playful shades for Cinderella collection.” Both collections are available for a limited time – be sure to get them before the stroke of midnight! For more information and orders visit www.sparklesa.co.za or call +27 11 447 0659/3
THE WORLD’S MOST PRESTIGIOUS ANNUAL BEAUTY CONGRESS TO BE HOSTED IN SOUTH AFRICA A growing middle class and consumers’ evolving attitude toward health and beauty have fuelled a beauty therapy industry worth billions. Now it’s time to uncover the secrets of future market growth for yourself at the 2015 international Comité International d’Esthétique et de Cosmétologie (CIDESCO) Congress which takes place at the Sandton Convention Centre in South Africa, 23-25 May 2015. The CIDESCO Congress is a congress with one goal: to create a non biased platform for all stakeholders in the beauty and skin therapy professions to have open and informative discussions for the improvement of the entire industry. Topics to be covered by international speakers and demonstrations include customer retention, medical aesthetics, SPA design and layout, skin resurfacing and micro pigmentation. Delegates are given the opportunity to learn more about new active ingredients, techniques,
trending procedures as well as attend demonstrations and courses by industry leaders and meet representatives from all of CIDESCO’s 33 international sections. Other important attractions are the makeup competition on 25 May - African Fauna & Flora - great social and networking opportunities on the evenings of the 20th and 21st of May, the annual Gala Dinner on the 23rd of May – African Flair, and Monday the 25th of May will have a programme specifically focused on students and their future. For more information please go to www.cidescocongress2015.com
Nail Couture Magazine | Issue 1(5) 2015 | www.nailcouture.co.za
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product news
REVOLUTIONARY NAIL TREATMENT After winning the hearts and fingertips of Gel Polish addicts and their nail techs in USA, Australia and Europe, revolutionary IBX nail treatment has finally arrived in South Africa! Distributed exclusively by Sparkle Cosmetics, this innovative professional treatment system is designed to serve as both a natural nail strengthener and a protective nail shield before gel polish application. IBX is a New & Revolutionary two-part system that acts as a protective shield for the natural nail under any gel or gel polish coating. IBX can also be used as a natural nail strengthening system that aids in the growth of stronger and healthier nails. This one-of-a-kind treatment, once applied and cured in an LED Lamp, forms an interpenetrating polymer network which fuses the upper layers of the nail together. The patent pending formula continues to strengthen and protect the clients’ nails long after the initial application. IBX is an exclusive professional in-salon treatment that can be offered as an add-on service before the gel polish application or during a classic polish manicure – perfect opportunity for a nail technician to earn extra income on a daily bases! IBX is a brain child of Famous Names LLC– a company founded by Jim and Linda Nordstrom, industry leaders and creators of some of the most innovative nail treatments. They began developing the IBX System on the heels of the pioneering launch of gel polish, foreseeing a need for product that will act as a protective and repairing treatment for nails damaged as a result of a long term gel polish wear and removal. The IBX System stands to transform the industry, enabling nail professionals to deliver better gel polish services without compromising the integrity and strengths of a natural nail. For more information about IBX system visit www.famousnames.com or email info@sparklesa.co.za
BIO SCULPTURE® GEL LAUNCHES A NEW COLLECTION With Fall slowly approaching, Bio Sculpture® Gel is proud to announce the launch of THE FOLK COLLECTION for Autumn/Winter 2015. This collection comprises five magical colours that will make an enchanting statement to complement this season’s Autumnal hue. The Folk Collection will create the perfect fantasy world with each individual colour telling a tale of its own. #180 HEART&SOUL A classic Camel shade that gives the perfect amount of warmth to this collection, with a subtle undertone of shimmer adding a flash of light. #182 PURSUIT OF BEAUTY This dark, rich brown brings a charming side to this collection with hidden qualities of elegance and style, conjuring up some of nature’s greatest elements with a subtle purple undertone. #181 THE ARTIST’S MUSE This deep sapphire blue shade draws you straight into its powerful beauty, with a flash of light throughout capturing its intense shimmer. It has a magical resemblance of a luminous night sky with the radiance of its enchanting stars. #183 FREE LOVIN’ The perfect Fairytale frosting as seen on the catwalks for Autumn/Winter 2015. This dark, emerald green shade is a seductive festive addition, embracing a radiant shade of elegance and natural beauty. #184 CLASSIC JACQUARD A soft and solid rose-nude colour. With its subtle blush undertone, this colour is a timeless classic that doesn’t speak loudly but whispers softly of graceful femininity. The Folk Collection will be available from a Bio Sculpture Distributor in your area from March 2015. For more information, or to find a Distributor in your area please call +27 (0) 86 124 643 or visit www.biosculpture.co.za
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Nail Couture Magazine | Issue 1(5) 2015 | www.nailcouture.co.za
product news
OUT TO RESCUE DAMAGED NAILS If you or your clients have weak or damaged nails, CND’s new product, Rescue RXX might just save them. The new nail repair treatment is infused with keratin protein, jojoba oil, and sweet almond oil. The proteins in the treatment bond to the natural nail to strengthen and restore moisture. It also dramatically reduces peeling and white spots for healthier, stronger, and more beautiful nails. Apply Rescue RXX to bare natural nails as an add-on treatment during manicure or a pedicure, massaging into the entire nail, nail edge, and cuticle area. You can add at least R50 to your basic manicure or pedicure service when offering Rescue RXX treatment. For best results
retail Rescue RXX to clients so they can continue the treatment at home. According to CND’s clinically proven results, 80% of people said white spots were less noticeable and felt the conditions of their nails noticeably improved in just one week. By week four, testing showed a 73% decrease in splitting and an 80% decrease in peeling. CND’s Rescue RXX will be available in March from CND Distributors worldwide. For more information about the product and orders contact Exclusive Beauty Solutions on +27 11 791 4027 or email orders@exclusivebeauty.co.za
Introducing Mini Version of Cuccio Veneer In the month of love Cuccio Naturale has surprised us with the newest and, we must say, the cutest addition to the Cuccio Veneer family. Veneer Minis come in 3,5ml bottles and are available in a full range of stunning Cuccio colours we got to love already. Now nail technicians will be able to stock a better variety of Cuccio colours at a fraction of a price. But wait, it gets even better! Veneer Minis are also available in Match Maker sets, paired with the matching Cuccio Nail Lacquer. Except for a new size, the formulation of Cuccio Veneer Minis is still the same, featuring the triple pigmentation technology for guaranteed full coverage in two thin coats. This unique formulation guarantees the long lasting wear for up to 21 days. Cuccio Veneer minis can be ordered from the exclusive Cuccio Naturale distributor in South Africa - Star Nail Africa.
For more information and orders contact Starnail Africa Email: starnail@telkomsa.net www.starnail.co.za
Nail Couture Magazine | Issue 1(5) 2015 | www.nailcouture.co.za
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nail cause
LOOK GOOD...FEEL BETTER’S
11th GOLF CHALLENGE The Look Good Feel Better Foundation is dedicated to helping women in active cancer treatment to regain their self-worth & confidence. The Programme offers beauty workshops in oncology hospitals and clinics around South Africa. To help them raise funds for this very exciting and rewarding cosmetic industry initiative you can participate in the annual prestigious, fun-filled golf day at Randpark Golf Club on 9th June 2015! Lets support this great initiative and in so doing help them reach even more women in their battle against cancer. Donate products or services or volunteer your time to help put a smile on a cancer patient’s face. To find out more about this great initiative or register for the golf day contact Glenda Hutchins: Tel: +27 11 795 3927 E-mail: glenda@lgfb.co.za www.lgfb.co.za
4 BALL STABLEFORD ALLIANCE Top Class Prizes Golf Towel Half-way House Lunch Voucher Prize Giving and Dinner Kitbag (with incredible goodies) And lots more...
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Cost: R 1 100.00 per Player R 4 400.00 per 4-ball Please book early, as there are limited fourballs available.
Nail Couture Magazine | Issue 1(5) 2015 | www.nailcouture.co.za
Facing cancer with confidence
hope is beautiful As experts agree, confidence in your appearance and the opportunity to spend time with other women in a relaxed, informative and fun two hour session can help people feel more able to cope with their treatment and everyday lives. Our workshops are held in over 38 public and private hospitals across SA (and 26 countries worldwide).
Do you know someone we could help? We need your support to reach even more women in their battle against cancer. Donate products and services or volunteer your time to help us to put a smile on their faces and face cancer with confidence. Find out more by visiting our website
www.lgfb.co.za Tel: 011 795 3927 Non Profit Organisation: 067263
LGFB Member Companies: Amway, Annique Skin Care Products, Avon Justine, Avroy Shlain, Bio Oil, Black Like Me, Beiersdorf, Chanel, Clarins, Colgate-Palmolive, Elizabeth Arden, Environ Skincare, Estèe Lauder Companies, Fascination Wigs, Galderma, Indigo Brands, Johnson & Johnson, L’Oréal, Kinky World of Hair, Ladine Cosmetics, Modernhair, NCP Alcohols, Oh So Heavenly, Procter & Gamble, Revlon, Ahava, Sharon Bolel, Sh’Zen, Sorbet, Twincare International
CDP Gifts
Zoe, Christobel and Stella came to a free skincare and make-up workshop held by Look Good Feel Better which was started 8 years ago to specifically help women manage the visible side-effects of their cancer treatment.
nail school
ODYSSEY NAIL SYSTEMS Made for the Best by the Best
The Nail Guru is a Durban based Nail & Beauty Training Academy that offers various short courses and workshops to help you advance your professional career
Monthly Short Courses:
Nail Technology & Nail Art (Angelic Nails Kit) Manicure & Pedicure Professional Waxing (Salon Specifics Kit) Threading & Tinting Make up (Kryolan Kit) Eye lash Extensions (Lash on Kit) MINX Koebana Spray Tans Facials (SkinPhD Kit)
Massage Workshops: Indian Head Hot Stone Calabash African Rungu Hawaian Lomi Lomi
Leading Professional Nail Training Beginners Acrylic/Gel Training Advanced Acrylic/Gel Training Nail Art Workshops Contact ONS educators in your area for a full training schedule and information on all available training modules
All training courses include a training kit, training manual and certificate on completion
Pretoria (Head Office) +27 82 377 9937 - Christelle Roodepoort +27 74 898 5231 - Janene Vaal Triangle +27 79 498 5950 - Mariette Jeffreys Bay & Port Elizabeth +27 84 512 5873 - Michelle
+27 31 564 2933 | +27 79 889 8514 info@thenailguru.co.za www.thenailguru.co.za Docnor Medical Centre 39 Umhlanga Rocks Drive, Durban North
Centurion +27 82 969 6958 - Chrizelda Odyssey Nails SA Head Office +27 82 377 9937 christelle@odysseynails.co.za www.odysseynails.co.za @OdysseyNailsSA
thenailgurusa 18
Nail Couture Magazine | Issue 1(5) 2015 | www.nailcouture.co.za
www.facebook.com/odysseynails.sa
nail school
take your nail skills to the next level
Nail Art Training from International Educators • NAIL ART BASICS • ONE STROKE PAINTING • FREEHAND PAINTING • 3D ACRYLIC / GEL • EXPRESS SALON DESIGN • CONFIDENCE BUILDING • ELECTRIC FILING • ACRYLIC / GEL EXCELLENCE • SALON BUSINESS SECRETS
SPARKLE NAIL ACADEMY IS EXCITED TO ANNOUNCE THE LATEST ADDITION TO THE RANGE OF PROFESSIONAL NAIL COURSES OFFERED B2B ADVANCED NAIL COURSE The B2B Course is designed to take you back to basics and perfect your acrylic application techniques in order to create flawless nails that are on par with International standards. Advanced product knowledge and expertise of our Educators trained by the Hand & Nail Harmony International Mentors ensure that we offer exceptional education that raises the quality and professional level of nail therapists and technicians, who graduate from Sparkle Nail Academy, to the world standards. During the two intensive training sessions our Educators will assess and correct your existing acrylic application technique and assist you in teaching how to create exceptional nail enhancements using the Hand & Nail Harmony’s ProHesion - the leading and most advanced Liquid & Powder system up to date. B2B course consists of the following modules: 1. Preparation techniques 2. Tip application and blending 3. Acrylic Moulding stages 4. Artificial nail structure 5. Filling and finishing techniques Please note that prior training in Acrylic System is essential to enrol for B2B course.
Please contact training@sparklesa.co.za for dates and more information.
NAIL COUTURE ACADEMY +27 82 465 5862 info@nailcoutureacademy.co.za www.nailcoutureacademy.co.za www.facebook.com/nailcoutureacademy
Nail Couture Magazine | Issue 1(5) 2015 | www.nailcouture.co.za
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nail school
Product
Training
Salon
Extending your beauty
Lash Extensions Nail Extensions Hair Extensions
edm nails & lashes
072 595 2154 / 072 620 8034 edmnails@gmail.com www.edmnailsandlashes.co.za
@ Green Olive Restaurant, Plot 229, Sefako Makgatho Drive, Kameeldrift-East 20
Nail Couture Magazine | Issue 1(5) 2015 | www.nailcouture.co.za
nail market
The Enchantment Collection from Morgan Taylor Escape to a magical fantasy land with The Enchantment Collection. Six soft and whimsical shades so mesmerising you won’t be able to resist their allure. The hues are fanciful yet dignified to set the mood for a majestic fall. ”Hocus Pocus” - Dusty Mint Crème “I’m the Good Witch” - Pink Pewter Glitter “Now You See Me” - Chocolate Brown Shimmer “Who-Dini?” - Grey Blue Crème “Magician’s Assistant” - Rosy Mauve Crème “Simply Spellbound” - Natural Nude Crème
Sparkle Cosmetics SA +27 11 447 0659/3 www.sparklesa.co za
Nail Art Fountain Pen Set from Justnail
The Folk Collection from Bio Sculpture® Gel
Create beautiful nail designs without any effort! Justnail Nail Art Fountain Pen is a perfect tool for both beginners and advanced nail artists. The set is complete with nail art ink, fountain pen with a cap and extra fountain pen tip. The set also includes the printed guide on using the fountain pen as well as step by step designs. A-Z Nail Suppliers +27 79 034 1925 www.nailarta2z.co.za
The Folk Collection from Bio Sculpture Gel comprises of five magical colours that will make an enchanting statement to complement this season’s Autumnal hue. The Folk Collection will create the perfect fantasy world with each individual colour telling a tale of its own. The Folk Collection will be available from a Bio Sculpture Distributor in your area from March 2015. Bio Sculpture South Africa +27 86 124 643
www.biosculpture.co.za
180 Heart and Soul
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Nail Couture Magazine | Issue 1(5) 2015 | www.nailcouture.co.zaN
181 182 Pursuit of Beauty The Artist’s Muse
183 Free Lovin’
184 Classic Jacquard
Cuticle Conditioning Butter Stick from Cuccio Naturalé Perfect for moisturizing dry cuticles, the slim tube of the cuticle conditioning butter sticks can be easily taken along in a small purse or make up bag for quick & easy touch up treatment to hydrate dry or cracked cuticles on hands and feet. The Cuticle Conditioning Butter Stick formula is enriched with blend of shea butter, vitamins a & e and olive oil. Available scents: Milk & Honey Pomegranate & Fig SPECIAL OFFER: Buy 2 get 1 FREE.
REVOLUTIONAILS PREMIUM ACRYLIC LEADING EUROPEAN PRIMERLESS ACRYLIC SYSTEM NOW AVAILABLE IN SOUTH AFRICA
Starnail Africa +27 12 751 1207 www.starnail.co.za
• Advanced adhesion • Primerless monomer formula • Exceptional colour stability • High flexibility and strength • Custom colour range
Neon Colour Pigments from Nail Designer XOTM Neon Colour Pigments are pure pigments that can be mixed into gel, acrylic powder or simply brushed over the inhibition layer of the cured gel or gel polish to create vibrant colour designs. The neon Collection is available in 10 colours and presents endless nail art possibilities. Nail Couture Academy +27 82 465 5862 info@nailcoutureacademy.co.za
Exclusive Beauty Solutions Tel: +27 86 112 6374 +27 11 791 4027 www.exclusivebeauty.co.za orders@exclusivebeauty.co.za
nail market
Get Color-Fall from Gelish Trends This collections takes the classic Fall hues up a notch with wearable glitters and stirring neutrals. The collection features six brand new shades - deep hues and rich pops of colour reminiscent of beautiful fall landscapes and skies, each formulated and named to make you crave cooler weather and warm sweaters. “Clean Slate” - Blue/Grey Crème “Rake In The Green” - Grey/Green Crème “Berry Buttoned Up” - Purple Pearl “Hello, Merlot!” - Berry Crème “Whose Cider Are You On?” - Brown pearl “Do I Look Buff?” - Nude Crème
Sparkle Cosmetics SA +27 11 447 0659 www.sparklesa.co.za
T3 FIBERGEL CLASSIC from Star Nail Durable, lightweight and flexible sculpting gel. Creates full coverage of the smile line on natural nails for slender more elegant looking French nails. Can be used for enhancements sculpting as well as natural nail overlays. Available in 7g, 28g and 56g. Starnail Africa +27 12 751 1207 www.starnail.co.za
Gel Revolution Gel Polish from Crisnail A revolutionary new Gel Polish Formula from Crisnail. Manufactured in Spain. • European quality • 21 Days of perfect colour wear • Easy application • Quick removal • NO natural nail damage • More than 90 fashionable shades SPECIAL OFFER: purchase 12 colours of Gel Revolution Gel Polish and receive a FREE Base/Top Coat. Exclusive Beauty Solutions +27 11 791 4027 www.exclusivebeauty.co.za
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Nail Couture Magazine | Issue 1(5) 2015 | www.nailcouture.co.za
Nail Art Paint from Nail Designer XOTM Unlock your artistic potential with a top quality Nail Art Paint that allows you to create any hand painted nail designs. This paint is water soluble, heavy pigmented and fast drying. Convenient dropper bottle packaging allows for easy storage. More than 60 crème, neon and metallic colours to choose from.
EXCLUSIVE ADVANCED GEL
SPECIAL OFFER: Buy 10 get 2 FREE. Nail Couture Academy +27 82 465 5862 info@nailcoutureacademy.co.za
LEADING EUROPEAN ADVANCED GEL SYSTEM NOW AVAILABLE IN SOUTH AFRICA
• Advanced odourless formula • Self leveling for easy sculpting • Durability of a Hard Gel • High flexibility and strength • Custom colour range
Transfer Foil Gel Paint from Nail Designer XOTM UV/LED gel paint is specifically designed for freehand and transfer foil nail art. The thicker consistency allows the gel paint to stay in place for as long as you are busy with the design. It cures in a UV lamp in 2 minutes or LED lamp in 30 seconds. Has a super tacky dispersion layer that allows the transfer foil to cover the design fully with ease. SPECIAL OFFER: Get 2 FREE transfer foils with the purchase of every Transfer Foil Gel Paint. PROMO CODE NC07 Nail Couture Academy +27 82 465 5862 info@nailcoutureacademy.co.za
Exclusive Beauty Solutions Tel: +27 86 112 6374 +27 11 791 4027 www.exclusivebeauty.co.za orders@exclusivebeauty.co.za
nail Q&A
Q
I like to work with gel polish, but I am scared to use darker colours. I noticed that sometimes when I apply a dark colour and cure it in my lamp, the gel polish comes out with ripples and wrinkles on its surface. How can I prevent this from happening? Lynn Smith, Best Nails Salon, Johannesburg
A
If you are seeing wrinkles and ripples on your gel polish, it only means one thing – the product has not cured properly. In most cases nail techs are applying the product too thick which prevents the UV light from penetrating to the bottom of the gel polish layer, causing uneven polymerization. You need to keep in mind that darker colours contain a great amount of dark colour pigment, which makes it more difficult for UV rays to get through the product in order to cure it, that is why you see the “wrinkles” mostly with the dark shades. To prevent uneven polymerization, always apply gel polish in thin and even layers. If you are applying gel polish in thin, even layers and you are still seeing “wrinkles”, it is probably time to replace the UV bulbs in your lamp. Since old bulbs reduce the output of UV rays, it is possible that your gel polish can’t cure properly due to insufficient amount of UV energy that your lamp produces. Always follow your gel polish manufacture’s recommendations on a type and a brand of the lamp that needs to be used for optimal curing results and remember to change the bulbs regularly. JoD Ströh CND Education Ambassador
Q A
Q. How often should I increase my prices and by how much? What is the best way to notify clients about price increases? Gillian McDonald Roodepoort Prices of salon services should be increased once a year. If you decided to implement an increase from the first of August, notify your clients at least one month in advance and do so every year. The average price increase in the nail and beauty industry varies between 5 and 10 per cent, depending on the price increase from product suppliers. Make sure you place a printed notice in the salon, something that states the date of the increase and by how much the prices will go up. Have a new updated treatments menu or a price list ready on hand for your client’s convenience. Place the notice on your website and social media and send notifications to your client database by email and SMS. You don’t have to be scared to increase the prices. Yes, you might lose a few clients due to the price increase, but on the other hand, your turnover will grow and you will free up space in your appointment book for the clients who don’t mind paying your new price. Oksana van Tonder Nail Couture Academy
If you have any questions related to the nail or beauty industry and you would like to get answers from the industry leaders and professionals please send them to info@nailcouture.co.za 26
Nail Couture Magazine | Issue 1(5) 2015 | www.nailcouture.co.za
Q
I would like to know if it is better to perform pedicures with or without gloves? What types of infections or skin disorders can a nail technician get on her hands from infected clients? Is soaking with an antibacterial, antifungal, cross-contaminationpreventing soak enough to protect our precious hands? Stefanie Mostert Port Elizabeth
A
It is highly advisable to use gloves during pedicure services but simply wearing gloves is not enough. What would your next client think if she discovered you had just finished working on a client with an infection, but you wore gloves? Do you think it would make her feel any better? More importantly, nail professionals are required to turn away a client with an infection and not perform any services until the infection has completely healed and disappeared. Nail professionals are only allowed to work on healthy nails and intact skin with no visible signs of disease or infections. Professional nail services are for beautification and nail technicians are not allowed to diagnosis, prescribe, or treat any type of infection or other medical condition. Only a qualified medical professional can properly and safely deal with these issues.
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Don’t be fooled: There is no such thing as a foot soak that will prevent cross-contamination from an active infection. Antibacterial/antifungal foot soak products cannot prevent the spread of infectious organisms in the salon setting. That’s why following proper salon sanitation practices are essential. Doug Schoon Chief Scientific Advisor for CND
Exclusive Beauty Solutions Tel: +27 86 112 6374 +27 11 791 4027 www.exclusivebeauty.co.za orders@exclusivebeauty.co.za
nail Q&A
Q
I am deciding on uniforms for my salon. I have done my research and looked at what is currently available from the suppliers. What I found does not really strike me as unique and interesting as all the styles I saw remind me of hospital nurses or waitresses from Chinese restaurants. Could you suggest how to make my salon employee’s uniforms look less boring? Tarryn Edwards Durban
A
If you did explore the ready-made uniform options and did not like any, you can always try to design something unique and have it custom made. The uniform you make yourself will reflect your salon’s style and your personality. What you need to remember in this case is that anything custom made will come at custom price as well. You can save the costs by thinking out of the box and creating your own unique uniform style. If your salon has a relaxed and casual style, have your nail techs dress in store bought plain white T’s and jeans. Add the custom made apron that complements the salon’s colour scheme to create a more professional appeal. You can brand the aprons with your salon’s logo or an interesting quote about beauty. Make it fun and alternate between white T-shirts and shirts in the colours of your salon and add white aprons to the look. If your salon is more upmarket and has a sophisticated feel, use collared shirts with trousers or tunics and leggings as your uniforms. These also can be bought in Woolworths or Edgars and paired with a scarf or a light sleeveless vest in the colour scheme of your salon. In winter you can add a buttoned jersey to the look. . Whatever you decide to choose as your salon’s uniform, make sure the clothing style is professional, appropriate and not too loud. Avoid low cut tops and sleeveless shirts as well as short dresses and shorts. Try to keep the uniform in a neutral colour like white, beige, black or grey and add accents that match your salon interior and colour scheme. Helen Sanders Managing Director, Dress to Impress
Q
Q. What is the best way to fix rhinestones to a nail for them to stay on between services?
A
There are a few ways to fix stones and jewels to a nail. You can place them in the UV Top Coat before curing or place them on a drop of nail adhesive, but my best tried and tested trick is to use clear sculpting gel. Place a tiny drop of clear sculpting gel onto the finished nail and gently place the rhinestone in the middle. Cure in a UV Lamp. Send your client home with bedazzled nails that will last till she is back to see you again.
Dikelele Lebea Pretoria
Oksana van Tonder Nail Couture Academy
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Nail Couture Magazine | Issue 1(5) 2015 | www.nailcouture.co.za
Q
My clients complain about their acrylics getting discoloured and yellow shortly after they had their nails done. It has never happened to me before. Could you point out what would be the reason for this happening? I have not changed my products or application process. Marieke Hunt Johannesburg
A
In some isolated cases yellowing of the acrylic can be due to client’s excessive exposure to the sun (sunbed), contact with sunblock lotions or insects repellent, and cooking with turmeric (curry spice). If the yellowing of the acrylic is not an isolated case but a general problem with all the clients, you need to figure out what is causing it. The most common reasons for acrylic discolouration are the following:
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The quality of the acrylic system you are using is not up to the industry standard. Cheap products from the Far East are not the right product for you if you are seriously concerned about quality of the enhancements you apply.
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The primer you apply to the nail prior to the application is still wet when acrylic is applied. The chemical reaction between primer and monomer will cause yellowing.
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The acrylic brush you are using is old or contaminated. If the brush is stored incorrectly, the liquid that remains on the brush after service can corrode the pin that holds the brush bristles together. It discolours the bristles which in turn discolours the product that the brush touches.
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The monomer you are using is contaminated or passed it’s shelf life. Contamination of the monomer happens when nail techs pour monomer from the dappen dish back into the original bottle.
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The top coat you are using is of inferior quality. Sometimes it is not the actual acrylic that is discoloured, but the UV Top Coat you are using. The easiest way to check this is to file the top coat off and check the colour of actual acrylic under it.
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Mixing products from different nail system can be another cause for the acrylic to yellow. Always use a primer, monomer and powder from the same nail brand and system as they were formulated to work together for the best possible result.
Stephanie Gompel Master Educator at the Nail Couture Academy
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Exclusive Beauty Solutions Tel: +27 86 112 6374 +27 11 791 4027 www.exclusivebeauty.co.za orders@exclusivebeauty.co.za
nail chemistry
Callus Softeners
Callus Softeners is a common name for a group of products formulated using active ingredients that help to soften heavy callus areas on feet, hands, elbows and knees. Professional callus softeners come mostly in liquid and gel formulations and are applied to affected areas for a short period of time. The active ingredients in these products break down the keratin bonds between the layers of the dead skin so it can be effectively removed. So what exactly are these softeners and how do they work? Common Ingredients: Urea Urea is an organic compound that has a super-hydrating effect on skin cells. Its function within callus softeners is to over moisturize and hydrate the tough, thick callus so that it becomes soft and supple for the pedicure file to have a greater effect at filing it down. It is a naturally occurring chemical that is produced within many organisms. In humans, the liver produces urea as a nitrogen waste carrier in the metabolic process to take waste out of the body in urine. Most industrial urea is synthetic and produced from carbon dioxide and ammonia.
Salicylic Acid Salicylic acid is an organic acid that derives originally from the bark of willow trees. It has anti-inflammatory properties, which has made its source compound, Salicin - a model for aspirin. It also has the ability to break down fats and lipids. As of now, it is the only chemical the FDA has approved to be marketed as a callus “remover,” and acts to lift the dead skin cells off of callus for enhanced filing results. It is also used to treat plantar warts and as exfoliating treatments for acne and psoriasis.
Potassium Hydroxide Potassium Hydroxide is an inorganic compound that makes for a strong callus softener depending on the amount in the formula. It degrades the protein in the callus cells and works quickly to soften even the toughest of callus in preparation for filing. Cuticle removers often contain a small amount of potassium hydroxide to help the cleaning of the nail plate from the dead skin cells attached to it. Potassium Hydroxide is also used in many industries including in the production of soap, fertilizer, and biodiesel and can even be used as a disinfectant and cleaning agent on surfaces that can withstand its corrosive properties.
Safety As all the callus softening formulas are corrosive, great care should be taken during procedures to avoid injuries and damage to the skin. The callus softeners should be applied only to the calluses and should never come into contact with a healthy skin. The softeners are typically left on the callus for about 5 minutes, though it varies from brand to brand. Technicians who are working with the product are advised to wear gloves during application.
Product Application Apply the callus softener with a spatula in a thick layer onto the callused areas and leave it to work for 5 to 10 minutes. Use the neutralizer that comes with the system to stop the chemical reaction (as per manufacturer’s directions). If the system you are using does not require neutralizing, soak the client’s feet in warm water with the foot soak added. Wash off the callus softener and remove the feet from water. Dry them off with a soft towel. File the feet with a foot file to remove access skin from the callus and ensure smoothness. Finish the treatment with the moisturising heel balm. For severely callused feet it is recommended that the treatment is performed every two weeks.
nail fashion
Hot Nail Trends from
New York
Fashion Week 2015 After a few seasons of playing around with colors, 3D effects, and textures, it’s clear that genuine nail art is growing up a bit. The nail designs at New York Fashion Week Spring 2015 have been all kinds of simple and sophisticated, with thin and thick graphic lines, negative spacing, liquid metallics and black and white colour palettes reigning supreme. Easy yet striking designs and techniques looked minimalistic and futuristic at the same time. So what fashion trends are here to stay this season?
Negative spacing manicures were prominent on the New York Fashion Week catwalks. From naked halfmoons by OPI lead nail artist Miss Pop for Charlotte Ronson to a bold black and white geometry by INM lead artist Rose Velez-Miggins for KYE, its seems like the contrast between colour and empty space is a new hot trend for the next season. Our favourite – stunning Nonoo, who complemented their collection using white nails with a nude stripe straight down the middle, from tip to cuticle.
Charlotte Ronson
Misha Nonoo
#1 Peek-a-Boo
Creatures of the Wind 32
Nail Couture Magazine | Issue 1(5) 2015 | www.nailcouture.co.za
Kye
Christian Louboutin
Opening Ceremony
nail fashion
#2 Graphic contents Linear nail art is big this season! Erin Fetherston, Rolando Santana, Azede Jean-Pierre - all paraded lines in all its glory. Single solitary stripes, bold cross-stitched lines, geometrical knit patterns – easy to adopt simplicity. At Kate Spade, white nails were accented with laser thin black horizontal lines across the middle, a look created by Deborah Lippmann.
Kate Spade
Azede Jean-Pierre
Kate Spade
Jeremy Scott
Kate Spade
Rebecca Minkoff
Carmen Marc Valvo
#3 Not so ordinary French
Tibi
Tadashi Shoji
Celebrity nail artists took a salon classic French to a whole new level at NYFW. A matte black base and silver polish along the cuticle was the look at Carmen Marc Valvo, a chic new take on the reverse French manicure, while bold white-and-yellow double French complemented Jeremy Scott’s collection.
Nail Couture Magazine | Issue 1(5) 2015 | www.nailcouture.co.za
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nail fashion
Creatures of the Wind
Carolina Herrera
#4 Ice, Ice Baby Cool shimmery custom frosted nails shone everywhere! Tadashi Shoji used shimmering gold metallic nail polish in a criss-cross pattern over a nude nail polish base for nail art that may look complicated, but is actually incredibly easy to recreate. The nails at Creatures of the Wind wore a clear base with a gradient silver tip, using the metallics for a fancy out of space look. But the winning cup goes to Morgan Taylor’s Danielle Candido who bedecked light bronze-to-silver digits with pearls, holographic foils and jewels.
Cushnie-Et-Ochs
Tadashi Shoji
Tadashi Shoji
Betsey Johnson
Zimmerman
Tanya Taylor Betsey Johnson 34
Nail Couture Magazine | Issue 1(5) 2015 | www.nailcouture.co.za
nail fashion
Libertine and CND go all out at New York Fashion Week 2015 We can always expect an interesting, unique take on nail art when CND is backstage during fashion week. The nail art at Libertine was more then we could’ve even possibly imagined – but quite honestly something we’ve come to expect from the CND nail team. Full of skulls and rave beads, below are ten secrets about Libertine nails co-founder Jan Arnold shared backstage: Each nail was hand-made out of liquid and powder white acrylic.
The nails were hand-painted a matte white almond shade.
All of the beads are hand-strung seed beads.
Each model had at least one skull on their nails.
The jaws on one of the skull designs actually opened and closed.
Inside each of the skulls’ jaws there is a little gold tooth.
The rib cage also opens up, revealing a black nail with blue and red embellishments underneath.
Rave beads spelled out “Libertine” on 10 of the models, with an exclamation point in the strung seed beads.
“We don’t paint nails backstage”, added Jan Arnold, “we make art”. We could not agree more! Nail Couture Magazine | Issue 1(5) 2015 | www.nailcouture.co.za
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nail case
Acrylic The invention of Gel Polish and Soak off Gels has simplified the world of nail coatings, but acrylic is still holding its strong position as a true staple of a nail salon income. It is a known fact that not every woman was born with perfect nails and can be satisfied with a gel colour coat. Most women need a little help to get the length and shape they desire and that’s what acrylic enhancements are designed to do. Acrylic provides the strength and durability and covers up imperfections like ridges, splits, peeling and pits. Applied to a natural nail as a protective overlay, over a nail tip, or even sculpted to extend the natural nail, acrylic nail enhancements always start with a combination of Monomer (liquid) and Polymer (powder). Today’s acrylic systems have evolved into a modern state of the art chemical masterpieces allowing nail techs to get creative with nail enhancements outside of the classic French. However in order to master the acrylic, it is important to understand the basics. So let’s learn some chemistry!
nail case
Acrylic Monomer Monomer is a Greek term that means “one part” or “one unit.” Mono means “one”; mer means “unit.” The main ingredient in acrylic monomer is Ethyl Methacrylate, better known as EMA. EMA has adhesion properties to hold everything together; it resists cracking, and aid in smooth application. There are a few more ingredients added to every formula, regardless of the brand or manufacturer. Each of these ingredients plays an important role in the successful outcome of your nail enhancements service.
Inhibitor: To prevent premature polymerization manufacturers need to add a chemical that stops the molecules from linking together prematurely. If the molecules link too early, the monomer will harden in the bottle. Typically, manufacturers choose Hydroquinone (HQ), Hydroquinone Monomethyl Ether (MEHQ), or Butylated Hydroxytoluene (BHT) as inhibitors.
Catalyst: The catalyst speeds up the chemical reaction and allows the product to set within minutes instead of hours. The reaction happens when the liquid comes into contact with Benzoyl Peroxide, which is the “activator” or “initiator” in the powder. It’s the catalyst that determines the setting time of the acrylic system. Manufacturers can speed up or reduce the setting time by the amount of catalyst they add to their formula. Too much catalyst in the formula can discolour the acrylic and make the end product weaker. So if you have to choose between speed and durability, slower setting time system produces enhancements that wear better and have more colour stability.
Crosslinkers: Crosslinkers are added to the formula to link the strands of molecules together in a 3-D type web. Think of crosslinkers as rungs on a ladder: they bridge, strengthen, and connect molecular chains.
UV Absorbers: Like the name suggests, UV absorbers interact with UV light. They are added to the monomer to prevent the nails from yellowing. They absorb the UV light and convert it to harmless blue light. With excessive amounts of a UV absorber, the nails could appear as if they have a blue glow.
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Flow modifiers: EMA already has natural properties that make it spread smoothly, but flow modifiers are added to customize a product’s workability. They help to create an easy, smooth spread and add self-levelling properties to the product.
Wetting agents: These are added to help the product spread smoothly over the surface and to improve adhesion to solid surfaces, such as the nail plate or the acrylic that remains on the nail between services. Wetting agents help the product flow smoothly over the surface of the nail plate and down into the nooks and crannies. This is also why it’s so important to prep the nail correctly and remove oils. Any oil on the nail will prevent the wetting agents from working correctly and can block proper adhesion.
Dyes: Some manufactures add dyes to the liquid to achieve a desired effect. For example, blue acts as an optical brightener, which makes colours appear more vibrant. Think of the little blue dots you can see in some laundry powders, those brighten the colours in clothes. In a similar way, blue dyes make whites appear whiter and colours appear brighter.
Nail Couture Magazine | Issue 1(5) 2015 | www.nailcouture.co.za
nail case
Acrylic Polymer Acrylic polymer, or as many techs call it acrylic power, is actually polymerized monomer. Polymerization happens when single molecules link together into long chains. Often, it’s a combination of Ethyl Methacrylate (EMA) and Methyl Methacrylate (MMA). In the manufacturing process the EMA and MMA are poured into a very large container that spins. As it spins, the molecules bond to each other and form perfectly round, hardened droplets: acrylic powder. Manufacturers can create different-sized droplets, such as a fine or medium powder, by changing how fast or slow the machine spins. There are few extra ingredients usually added to the formula in order to produce acrylic powder that creates beautiful enhancements.
Activator (or Initiator): The activator, Benzoyl Peroxide, acts like a starting gunshot in a race. As soon as the acrylic liquid touches the acrylic powder, the catalyst in the liquid activates the initiator in the powder and a chemical reaction begins the bonding and hardening process used to create acrylic enhancements. When the liquid touches the acrylic powder, it doesn’t “melt” the powder. Instead, the liquid, which has adhesion properties, bonds all the little “droplets”, or pieces of powder, together to create the nail enhancement material. Each powder particle of the polymerized monomer is coated with an activator.
Colour pigments: Pigments are usually added to the polymer in order to create a wide array of different coloured acrylic powders that can be used for nail design. One example of a pigment, Titanium Dioxide (TiO2), allows the product to come in a variety of whites.
Important facts about Acrylics: The size of the particles in acrylic polymers plays a very important role in the qualities of the finished product: the particle size of an acrylic powder determines its workability. There are fine, medium-fine, and coarse powders; some apply very smoothly, some require a wet consistency, while others are used very dry. Powder particles are measured in microns and range from as big as 125 microns to as small as 25 microns (for comparison’s sake, a human hair is 125 microns thick). If the particle size is too small, the powder has poor strength and poor adhesive properties. On the other hand a powder with too large of a particle size can create a dry, doughy mixture that doesn’t dissolve well. There is a slower pick-up and a more dry consistency with large particles. With finely ground particles, it is a much faster pick-up and a wetter consistency because the powder absorbs the liquid faster. Whatever acrylic brand you decide to choose, remember that the best possible result will only be achieved by using the brand as a system, meaning monomer should be of the same brand as polymer. Manufacturers formulate powders and liquids that work together as a system, and you should use them that way. Otherwise, you could encounter product allergies, unforeseen chemical reactions, and liability for any problems resulting from mixing one manufacturer’s powders with another liquid.
Nail Couture Magazine | Issue 1(5) 2015 | www.nailcouture.co.za
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Odourless
Acrylic System Acrylics have earned the trust of clients for its durability and strength. You, as a nail professional, love acrylics for all the possibilities it gives you as an artist. Unfortunately, the use of traditional acrylic system is not always possible due to various circumstances: it may be the SPA environment you work in does not allow for the strong odour Liquid & Powder system comes with or maybe the room you are working in does not have sufficient ventilation. Whatever the reason is, don’t give up on tried and trusted acrylic just yet, as there is a solution that can keep both you and your client happy.
Ultimate Lyte Acrylic Application Technique Star Nail’s Ultimate Lyte Acrylic is a revolutionary new odour-free, light cured acrylic nail system that has the strength of acrylic with the flexibility and clarity of gel. The Ultimate Lyte formula does not contain ethyl methacrylate, amines, peroxides or toluidine which makes it hypoallergenic and absolutely safe to use for a client and a nail tech. It cures with the use of UV light and the most important – does not ever yellow or discolour. Changing from traditional acrylic to an odourless system can be a bit challenging as there are some differences in application method and technique. First of all, odourless acrylic should be applied thicker than traditional one since it cures with the tacky layer on top which has to be removed before enhancements shaping and finishing. The Ultimate Lyte monomer has a higher molecular weight which makes it heavier and thicker. It has unique working properties and is nonevaporating and non-volatile Using odourless acrylic system requires a drier mix ratio than traditional acrylic and should be kept at 2:1.
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Nail Couture Magazine | Issue 1(5) 2015 | www.nailcouture.co.za
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STEP-BY-STEP GUIDE Before starting your Ultimate Lyte application proper sanitation practices, as always should be of the utmost importance. Exceed your client’s expectations by prescribing the client guard individual implement pack containing necessary non-sanitizable implements. Through retailing or adding this responsible choice to your service, you will be protecting yourself and your clients. 1. Begin with anti-microbial scrub to cleanse your client’s hands and your own. Mist hands with dehydrating spray.
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2. Shape the nails and push back the cuticles. 3. Slightly buff the surface of the nail.
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4. Fit the nail forms. The form should fit under the free edge and follow the contour of hyponichium. Apply Star Nail Primer with the primer pen applicator or the primer brush. Let Primer dry to chalky white appearance. Pour the Ultimate Lyte Monomer and powder in two separate dappen dishes.
With the belly of the brush; pat, form, and work the powder into desired shape. If, during your application of Ultimate Lyte you experience product sticking to your brush (peaks), simply wipe your brush to remove any product stuck in the hair and continue shaping the nail.
5. Dip your pure Red Sable brush in the liquid and wipe on a paper towel. Dip the brush in the liquid again and gently wipe your brush on the side of the dappen dish. Proceed with the free edge sculpting. Apply a ball of white powder to the free edge.
6. Apply a smaller ball of Pink or clear powder behind the sculpted free edge. Work the ball from side to side covering the natural nail and stroke out.
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7. Dip the brush in the monomer again and pick up another small pink or clear ball and apply it to the cuticle area. Product placed too close to the cuticle area will cause lifting. Draw the excess product towards the free-edge; stroke it from the cuticle area towards the free edge to blend. 8. Pick up a small clear ball and apply it to the stress area. Brush from the cuticle area to free edge. This will give an additional
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10. After curing the product you will notice a slightly wet seal appear on the nail. This seal has been designed to reduce air-borne dust providing you with a healthier salon environment. Begin by sloughing the entire nail to remove the seal with the 180 Grit file. 11. Shape and define free edge sidewall area. Perfect the cuticle area. Use a buffing block to remove scratches and finish the nail. Apply the UV Top coat and cure in a UV Light. Apply Roulé Calcium Oil to the cuticle area.
flexibility to the stress area, and will not discolour the white smile line, like pink powder does when pulled over the white. 9. Cure for 3 minutes, under the UV Light, make sure your clients knuckles are flat, so that the nails are cured properly at all angles. Remove forms and reposition hands, palms up, and cure the undersides of the nails for an additional 2-3 minutes.
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To book a demo or conversion training with Ultimate Lyte Odourless Acrylic System contact Star Nail Head Office on +27 12 751 1207 Nail Couture Magazine | Issue 1(5) 2015 | www.nailcouture.co.za
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nail health
As a nail professional, you should not only know the various conditions of nails, but make yourself familiar with the most common skin conditions as well. Understanding the skin conditions will help you provide safer and more sensitive nail services to your clients.
Vitiligo You’ve most likely seen vitiligo before; it manifests itself as light or white splotches on the skin. It’s one of those conditions that many people recognize when they see it, but very few people know the technical term for the disorder, and even fewer understand why it occurs and the process behind its development. Undoubtedly, much of the stigma attached to vitiligo stems from an ignorance on the part of the general population. Vitiligo can be a very socially stigmatizing disease, especially in population with naturally darker skin types. In some cultures, people with vitiligo are ostracized from society, even though vitiligo isn’t a contagious disease. As a
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nail technician, you may come across this skin condition, and knowing more about it can greatly improve your services for these clients, make them feel comfortable and put them at ease. Vitiligo is an autoimmune disorder that is easily noticed because it affects levels of pigment in the skin. It is becoming an increasingly common skin disorder, and is characterized by the body’s immune system attacking melanocytes, or pigmentproducing cells. The attack on healthy pigment-producing cells leads to patches of skin that lack colour, meaning affected
Nail Couture Magazine | Issue 1(5) 2015 | www.nailcouture.co.za
nail health
areas turn completely white. It often starts in childhood, and is usually associated with other autoimmune diseases, including lupus, hair loss/alopecia, thyroid dysfunction and more. Once the symptoms of the condition start to materialize, it’s a painless process to determine the condition. A dermatologist can easily diagnose vitiligo with a simple clinical examination, which requires no biopsy. Once vitiligo is diagnosed, there are several methods of treatment available depending on the severity of the case or the client’s preference. The first level of treatment involves applying sunscreen so the adjacent skin doesn’t tan and highlight the problem, as well as using cover-up cosmetics. The second level of treatment is administration of the drug Psoralyn in combination with UVA light treatment (known as PUVA therapy) to try to stimulate pigmentation, or a UVB laser to try to induce more pigment to develop in these spots. The third level is depigmentation therapy, where the normal skin is bleached to match the skin affected by vitiligo. According to the National Vitiligo Foundation (NVF) in USA, patients who undergo the second level of treatment (called Re-Pigmentation therapy) can expect to gain back pigment on only about one-eighth to one-quarter inch of skin during each year of treatment. However, the decision to undergo depigmentation therapy (the third line of treatment) is a serious one, since it permanently removes pigment from all skin on the body. Unfortunately, no single cure exists for vitiligo.
Vitiligo also affects the pigment in the hair
Case of Vitiligo in an African patient
What a Nail Tech should do Nail technicians are especially prone to seeing vitiligo in the salon, since this disorder, in its generalized form, often affects the skin colour on the hands, especially the fingers. You’ll notice that clients who have had vitiligo for years are likely already aware of the ways in which they can make it less noticeable. Many use self-tanners or other skin-blending makeup to disguise the patches of unpigmented skin. Before performing services, you should ask if the client is allergic to any substances, as often irritants may cause skin injury and should be avoided. Nail techs should avoid harsh chemicals and practice gentle skin care when working on clients who have vitiligo. For example, during the massage stage of services, use lighter pressure. As always, when in doubt, your client can ask her dermatologist if certain procedures are safe. For clients with vitiligo, it is to your benefit to be very cautious when grooming cuticles. For their safety, do not cut any skin and gently push back cuticles. Trauma to the cuticles or accidental cuts, can worsen the disease. While you’re used to keeping your implements clean and sterilized, that’s not enough for clients with vitiligo. Even a perfectly sterilized implement can have a negative effect, so it’s more important than ever to keep your focus! Another important precaution clients with this disorder should take is to avoid sun exposure. In general, patients with vitiligo should avoid excessive sun exposure that would cause their skin to burn, and thereby injure the delicate healthy skin and the areas of depigmentation. Skin damage can cause a tendency toward progression of the disease process. One way you can assist these clients is to apply sunscreen following every manicure or pedicure service. Unfortunately, many clients who have vitiligo are self-conscious about their appearance, and—just like any client—when they enter your salon they’re looking for relaxation, understanding and the appropriate amount of attention. Because this condition has noticeable cosmetic effects, your services can be crucial in lightening a client’s mood and raising her self-confidence. By following the few precautions when performing manicures and pedicures, you can offer these clients beautiful nails and safe services.
Case of Vitiligo in a Caucasian male patient 44
Nail Couture Magazine | Issue 1(5) 2015 | www.nailcouture.co.za
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nail technique
Nails by Jana Duzanic, EuroFashion Exclusive, Croatia
French...Your Majesty: Classic French is still a style
The French manicure is a timeless, understated look as popular today as it was in the 1930’s. With so much attention given to nail art and innovative textures in nail designs these days, the French is still one of the most popular nail looks requested at salons. The history of the French manicure is up for debate, with some sources claiming it originated as early as the 19th century in France. Others credit the look to Max Factor, who is said to have created the French manicure for Parisian fashionistas in the 1930’s. The clean, polished look was designed to match any outfit and cater to a chic, understated sense of style. During this time, the French manicure was referred to as “The Natural Nail Look”. According to nail history, the term was coined in 1978, when the cosmetics company Orly trademarked the term “Original French Manicure” to describe the first at-home French manicure kit. Orly CEO Jeff Pink says he created the concept of the French manicure for Hollywood starlets who needed a
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classy, polished nail look that would go with all their costume changes. The French look has really evolved in the past 30 years. While Pink and White is still a timeless classic, the imagination and the skills of nail artist took it places where Jeff Pink could never see it go. Colour, Glitter, Marble, Rainbow, Chevron, Half-moon – you name it, we got it! The variety of modern materials and techniques allows the nail professional to play with colour, texture and shape. Yet with all the varieties of French offered in the salon today, the basics stay the same, for all the years since the beginning. So let’s recap!
Nail Couture Magazine | Issue 1(5) 2015 | www.nailcouture.co.za
nail technique
Classic French Basics Free Edge Length
T
he balanced look of any French nail requires the correct proportion in the length of the nail bed to the length of the free edge. Any free edge that is longer than 50% of the length of the nail bed looks out of proportion and balance. Keeping the free edge at about 1/3 of the nail bed or less is recommended for regular salon services.
Nail Bed Length Smile Line Placement
T
he corner points of the smile line should be positioned against the side walls and both placed at the same height.
T
he nail bed (even in the case where it is extended past the natural smile line) should not extend past the tip of the finger.
The highest point of the smile line should be placed exactly on the line that runs vertically through the center of the nail.
Smile Line Shape Custom Colour
A
T
B
C
he shape of the smile line should mirror the shape of the cuticle area. The exception would be the Competition French, in which case the shape of the smile lines is enhanced. A & B - Salon French C - Competition French
T
he nail bed colour choice should be determined by the client’s skin tone. Soft pinks will suit the cool skin tones while peach and neutral nudes are perfect for warmer skin tones. Incorrect choice of colour used to enhance the nail bed can make the French look unnatural and almost plastic like.
As for the free edge – let your imagination run wild! Decorate it with glitter, use different colours of gel to create the marble effect, build in embellishments and netting, add freehand painted nail art and anything else what comes to your mind to freshen up the old classic. Nail Couture Magazine | Issue 1(5) 2015 | www.nailcouture.co.za
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Nail Design: Ksenia Zhukovska Make-Up: Yulia Sablina Photo: Valeria Zanina
Nail Art Class
Design by Ksenia Zhukovska, Nail Artist Euro Fashion Akademia Paznokcia, multiple national Nail Competition winner (World of Nails, NailPro Eastern Europe, Olympic Nail Competition,Open Israel Nail Cup), nation nail competitions Judge, Kiev, Ukraine
nail art class
Sweet Summer 1
Perform a standard natural nail PREP for Gel nail enhancement application. Apply Base Gel and cure in a UV Lamp. Fit the sculpting form snuggly under the nail and sculpt a thin base layer using Clear Sculpting gel. Cure in a UV Lamp.
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2
Using White Sculpting Gel build the structure of the nail and double cure in a UV Lamp.
5
3 Material provided courtesy of Nail Estetique Magazine, Ukraine (www.sa-beauty.com)
Remove an inhibition layer using a lint-free wipe and Gel Cleanser. File the nail into desired shape using 180 Grit File.
2
4
Using Gel Polish in Bright Pink colour draw abstract stripes across the nail. Flash cure in a UV Lamp for 10 seconds.
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6
Using darker Berry Pink Gel Polish add more stripes to the design. Flash cure.
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3
Using Pastel Mint Gel Polish add another stripe to the design. Cure the nails in a UV Lamp for 2 minutes.
7
Remove the inhibition layer from the nail and add finer details to the design using Black Nail Art Paint and a Fine Nail Art Brush. Make sure your lines are thin and neat. Allow the paint to dry.
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4
Apply Gel Polish Top coat and cure in a UV Lamp for 2 minutes. Remove an inhibition layer using a lint-free wipe and Gel Cleanser. Add a drop of cuticle oil to each nail. Design is ready!
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Nail Couture Magazine | Issue 1(5) 2015 | www.nailcouture.co.za
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nail art class
Design by Alla Kravchenko EzFlow Nail Designer, Educator at Victory Nail Training Centre, Silver Medalist at Nailympics London 2013, Nail Competition Judge, Kiev, Ukraine
Golden Chandelier 1 2 3
Perform a standard PREP for Gel Polish application Apply Gel Polish Base Coat in a thin, even layer. Cure in a UV/LED Lamp as per system’s instructions.
Apply Beige Gel Polish to 10 nails. Cure. Choose an accent finger and create a vertical gradient using Black and Beige Gel Polish. This technique requires some practice but is relatively easy to master. To achieve the look paint the Black Gel Polish onto 1/3 of the nail and use flat gel brush to blend the colour towards the middle of the nail. Once you are satisfied with the result, cure.
4 5 6
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Using Black Gel Paint draw the half-moon elements at the cuticle area. Cure. If you are using Black Gel Polish for this step, remember to flash-cure each finger for 10 seconds to avoid it running into the cuticles. Remove dispersion layer. Using Transfer Foil Gel draw the ornament on all 10 nails. Cure. Transfer the golden Foil onto the ornament. Apply 2 coats of Top Coat. Cure in between layers. Remove dispersion layer and apply a drop of cuticle oil to each finger. Design is ready!
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Nail Couture Magazine | Issue 1(5) 2015 | www.nailcouture.co.za
nail art class
Design by Elena Grama Educator at “American Beauty International�, National Nail Competition Judge, multiple winner of National and International Nail Competitions, Kiev, Ukraine
Peak of Luck 1
2 1
Prepare the nail for Gel Enhancements application. Sculpt the thin free edge and file to desired shape.
3
4
2
Using White Sculpting Gel draw a French line on each nail. Flash cure.
3
Using the same Gel draw the lines to form triangle shapes on the free edge. Cure.
4
Fill some of the spaces with the Black Gel. Fill the rest of the spaces with the White Gel. Cure. Extend the nail bed using Cover Pink Sculpting Gel. Finish the structure of the enhancements using Clear Sculpting Gel.
5
6
5
Shape the nails with 180 Grit file and buff to a smooth finish. Remove the dust with a soft brush.
6
Apply a UV Top coat and cure. Add a drop of cuticle Oil to each nail. Design is ready!
Nail Couture Magazine | Issue 1(5) 2015 | www.nailcouture.co.za
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nail art class
Design by Elena Grama Educator at “American Beauty International�, National Nail Competition Judge, multiple winner of National and International Nail Competitions, Kiev, Ukraine
Rain Drops 1 2 3
Perform standard PREP for CND Shellac application. Apply CND Shellac Base Coat in a thin even layer and cure in CND Shellac Lamp for 10 seconds. Apply first coat of CND Shellac Black Pool and cure for 2 minutes. Apply second coat and cure. Remove the sticky layer using Isopropyl Alcohol.
1
2
4
Buff the surface of the nail with a soft buffer to remove the shine and give the nail matte appearance.
5
Place the drops of CND Shellac Top Coat onto the surface of the nail to imitate the drops of water. Cure for 2 minutes and wipe the sticky layer with Isopropyl Alcohol. Finish with a drop of Solar Oil to each nail. Design is ready!
3
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Nail Couture Magazine | Issue 1(5) 2015 | www.nailcouture.co.za
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nail art class
Watercolour Daisies 1
Perform a standard PREP procedure for enhancements application. Perform the natural nail overlay with the product of your choice. File the nail into desired shape and buff with a 240 Grit buffer. Brush off the dust and wipe the nail clean with a Cleanser.
2 1
Using watercolour paint in burgundy and dark purple colours draw flower petals on all the nails.
2
3
Go over flower petals with a dry brush to remove the access paint for see-through effect.
4
3
4
Using a fine nail art brush and watercolour paint add a thin contour to the petals. Using dark blue watercolour paint, draw the veins in the centre of the flowers. Add orange dots to the flower centres as well.
5
5
6
Add a few decorative elements around the flowers using a fine nail art brush and watercolour. Draw a body of a butterfly using orange watercolour. Using the same technique as for the petals, finish the butterfly with the fine contour.
6
Wait for the design to dry completely. Apply a layer of Top Gel and cure in a UV Lamp. Remove the sticky layer with Gel Cleanser. Finish with a drop of Cuticle Oil to each nail. Design is ready!
Nail Couture Magazine | Issue 1(5) 2015 | www.nailcouture.co.za
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nail art class
Design by Alla Kravchenko EzFlow Nail Designer, Educator at Victory Nail Training Centre, Silver Medalist at Nailympics London 2013, Nail Competition Judge, Kiev, Ukraine
Blue Sky
1 1
Material provided courtesy of Nail Estetique Magazine, Ukraine (www.sa-beauty.com)
2
4
Perform standard natural nail PREP for gel enhancements.
3
5
2
Fit the sculpting form and sculpt a thin base of the enhancement with Clear Gel. Cure. Â Â Remove the sculpting form.
3 4 5 6 7 8
Extend the nail bed using Cover Pink Sculpting Gel. Cure. Apply the Blue and Turquoise Gel onto the free edge. Cure. Transfer the patches of Blue and Silver Foil onto the cured gel.
Cover the whole nail with the Clear Sculpting Gel. File into desired shape and buff to a smooth surface. Remove the dust with the soft nail brush. Add the fine details to the Ring finger using Nail Art Paint and Fineliner Brush. Apply UV Top Coat on all 10 fingers, place the rhinestones in the wet Top Coat and cure in a UV Lamp for 2 minutes. Apply a drop of cuticle oil to each nail. Design is ready!
6
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Nail Couture Magazine | Issue 1(5) 2015 | www.nailcouture.co.za
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nail art class
Lace Fantasy 1 2 3
Design by Anna Sidorenko, Certified Instructor for NLnobel, Leading Educator for Victoria Klopotova’s Nail Academy, multiple National and European Nail Competitions winner, Junior Nation Judge, Ukraine
Sculpt the French enhancements using Cover Pink and Black Acrylic of your choice. Draw a contour of a lace pattern on all 10 nails using fine nail art brush and White Nail Art Paint. Pick up a small amount of White Nail Art Paint with a corner of the square brush and shade inside the flower petal in the lace.
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2 4
Connect the lace elements with the thin lines (“threads”).
5
Fill the spaces with the thin criss-cross lines to imitate the lace.
6
3
4
Decorate the edges of the pattern with the “fringe” by drawing thin short lines with the Fineliner Brush and White Nail Art Paint.
7
Apply a layer of Top Gel and cure in a UV Lamp for 2 minutes. Finish off with a drop of Cuticle Oil. Design is ready!
5
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Nail Couture Magazine | Issue 1(5) 2015 | www.nailcouture.co.za
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nail art class
Design by Oksana van Tonder Head Educator at Nail Couture Academy, Creative Director at Nail Couture Magazine, International Nail Competition Judge, Pretoria, South Africa
1 2 3 4 5 6
Velvet Rose
Perform a standard PREP for CND Shellac application. Apply CND Shellac Base Coat and cure for 10 seconds. Apply the first layer of CND Shellac Salmon Run and Cream Puff and cure for 2 minutes.
Apply second coat of CND Shellac Salmon Run and Cream Puff and cure for 2 minutes. Apply CND Shellac Top Coat and cure for 2 minutes. Using CND Shellac Salmon Run and a Gel Detailer Brush draw a rose design on the Middle and Ring fingers. Do not cure! With a metal spatula pick up Shimmery Coral acrylic powder and sprinkle over the rose design. Cure in CND Brisa Lamp for 3 minutes. Once cured, brush off access acrylic powder from the nails, remove the sticky layer with a lint-free wipe and Isopropyl Alcohol and add a drop of Solar Oil to each nail. Design is ready!
1
2
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Nail Couture Magazine | Issue 1(5) 2015 | www.nailcouture.co.za
take your nail skills to the next level Advanced Training Modules from International Educators: • • • • • • • • •
www.facebook.com/nailcoutureacademy
NAIL ART BASICS ONE STROKE PAINTING FREEHAND PAINTING 3D ACRYLIC / GEL EXPRESS SALON DESIGN CONFIDENCE BUILDING ELECTRIC FILING ACRYLIC / GEL EXCELLENCE SALON BUSINESS SECRETS NAIL COUTURE ACADEMY +27 82 465 5862 info@nailcoutureacademy.co.za www.nailcoutureacademy.co.za
nail art class
Material provided courtesy of Nail Estetique Magazine, Ukraine (www.sa-beauty.com)
Design by Elena Grama Educator at “American Beauty International”, National Nail Competition Judge, multiple winner of National and International Nail Competitions, Kiev, Ukraine
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2
Black & Gold Perform a standard natural nail PREP for CND Shellac application.
4
1 2 3
4 5 6
Draw an abstract flower design using a fine nail art brush and CND Shellac Cream Puff.
6
Apply 2 coats of CND Shellac Black Pool. Cure each coat in CND UV Lamp for 2 minutes.
Remove the inhibition layer with a lint-free wipe and Isopropyl Alcohol. Buff the nail using a Boomerang Buffer to remove the shine.
Add fine details using the same colour.
Sprinkle Gold Glitter onto the wet design and place client’s hand in CND UV Lamp for 2 minutes. Apply CND Shellac Top Coat and cure for 2 minutes. Remove the inhibition layer with a lint-free wipe and Isopropyl Alcohol. Design is ready!
Nail Couture Magazine | Issue 1(5) 2015 | www.nailcouture.co.za
nail art class
Design by Elena Antibura Certified Educator for LeChat, Creative Director at Fly Nails Nail Studio, multiple national and international nail competition winner, Dnipropetrovsk, Ukraine
Juicy Lime 1
Perform standard natural nail PREP for acrylic sculpting. Extend the nail using Cover Pink Acrylic, shape the enhancements and remove dust with a soft nail brush.
2
Apply a thin layer of Perfect Match Happily Ever After and cure in a UV Lamp for 2 minutes.
3 Material provided courtesy of Nail Estetique Magazine, Ukraine (www.sa-beauty.com)
Apply Perfect Match Honeysuckle and Lily Pad using gradation (ombre) technique. Cure in a UV Lamp for 2 minutes.
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6
4
Using Perfect Match Happily Ever After and a nail art brush draw the shapes of limes. Cure.
5
Using White ProTech Gel draw the segments and details on all the limes. Using Perfect Match Dark Forest contour and shade in the limes. Cure.
6
Add fine details using White and Dark Green Nil Art Paint. Apply Perfect Match Top Coat and cure in a UV Lamp for 2 minutes. Design is ready!
Nail Couture Magazine | Issue 1(5) 2015 | www.nailcouture.co.za
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nail art class
Design by Elena Grama Educator at “American Beauty International�, National Nail Competition Judge, multiple winner of National and International Nail Competitions, Kiev, Ukraine
Love Triangle Material provided courtesy of Nail Estetique Magazine, Ukraine (www.sa-beauty.com)
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2
1 2 3 4 5
Perform standard natural nail PREP for CDN Shellac application. Apply CND Shellac Base Coat and cure in a UV Lamp for 10 seconds. Apply the first coat of CND Shellac Hot Pop Pink and cure for 2 minutes. Repeat with the second coat and cure. Use a fine nail art brush and CND Shellac Cream Puff to draw a triangle on the free edge. Using CND Shellac Black Pool draw a smaller triangle inside.
Apply CND Shellac Top Coat and cure for 2 minutes. Remove dispersion layer using a lint-free wipe and Isopropyl Alcohol. Finish off with a drop of CND Solar Oil to the cuticle area. Design is ready!
3 60
Nail Couture Magazine | Issue 1(5) 2015 | www.nailcouture.co.za
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nail art class
Design by Svetlana Mudrakova, Certified instructor and nail designer at “Perfect Lady Ukraine”, multiple nail competition winner, Tcherkassy, Ukraine
Material provided courtesy of Nail Estetique Magazine, Ukraine (www.sa-beauty.com)
Artist’s Muse 1
3
2
4
1
Perform a standard PREP for Acrylic enhancements application. Fit the sculpting form and extend the nail bed using Cover Pink Acrylic. Sculpt the free edge using Clear Acrylic. Pinch the C-curve.
2 3
Apply Clear Acrylic over the entire nail.
4 5
Using Black Nail Art Paint draw the contour of the design.
File the nail into desired shape and smooth the surface with the 240 Grit Buffer.
Using Nail Art Paint in Blue, Light Blue, Green, White and Purple colours fill in the contours of the design. Allow the paint to dry completely.
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Apply an even coat of Top Gel and cure in a UV Lamp for 2 minutes. Finish off with a drop of Cuticle Oil to each nail. Design is ready!
Nail Couture Magazine | Issue 1(5) 2015 | www.nailcouture.co.za
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nail art class
Design by Ksenia Zhukovska, Nail Artist Euro Fashion Akademia Paznokcia, multiple national Nail Competition winner (World of Nails, NailPro Eastern Europe, Olympic Nail Competition,Open Israel Nail Cup), nation nail competitions Judge, Kiev, Ukraine
1
2
Flower Fields 1
Material provided courtesy of Nail Estetique Magazine, Ukraine (www.sa-beauty.com)
Perform a standard PREP for acrylic nail enhancements. If your system requires, apply Dehydrator and Primer on the natural nail plate.
3
4
5
2 3 4
Fit the sculpting form to the nail and extend the nail bed using Cover Pink Acrylic. Using Yellow Acrylic and Yellow Glitter Acrylic sculpt the free edge.
Cover the whole nail with Clear Acrylic to ensure the proper structure and architecture of the nail. Pinch the C-Curve once Acrylic is set.
5
File the nail into desired shape using 150 Grit File. Remove the dust with the soft nail brush.
6 7
Draw some flowers using Red and White nail art paint.
Using Black and Light Blue Nail Art Paint add dimension to the flowers. Contour the petals and centres of the flowers with Black Nail Art Paint.
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Nail Couture Magazine | Issue 1(5) 2015 | www.nailcouture.co.za
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Apply Gel Top Coat over the whole nail and cure in a UV Lamp for 2 minutes. Add a drop of Cuticle Oil to each nail. Design is ready!
nail art class
Design by Natalia Golovina Official Distributor for CNI in Ukraine, Natalya Golovina Nail Design Academy’s Certified Nail Technology Instructor, OMC International Competition Judge, multiple nail competition prize winner, Kiev, Ukraine
Flowers for Barbie
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1 2
Perform a standard PREP for acrylic nail enhancements.
Cleanse and dehydrate the natural nail plate. Apply Primer. Fit the sculpting form to the nail.
4
6
5
7
3
Sculpt the free edge using White Acrylic. Make sure to “stretch” some of the product on to the nail plate below the free edge. Remove sculpting form.
4 5 6 7
Using Pink and White Acrylic sculpt 3D flowers. Using Gold Acrylic sculpt the centres of the flowers and leaves. Sculpt the architecture of the nail using Clear Acrylic.
File the nail to a desired shape using 150 Grit File and smooth the surface with a 240 Grit Buffer. Apply Top Gel and cure in a UV Lamp for 2 minutes. Design is ready!
Nail Couture Magazine | Issue 1(5) 2015 | www.nailcouture.co.za
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nail art class
Design by Oksana van Tonder Head Educator at Nail Couture Academy, Creative Director at Nail Couture Magazine, International Nail Competition Judge, Pretoria, South Africa
Silver Lining 1
Perform a standard natural nail PREP. Apply Acrylic over the natural nail and allow it to set. File the nails into desired shape and buff with a 240 Grit buffer. Remove the dust.
2
Apply 2 coats of pink Gel Polish. Cure each layer in a UV Lamp for 2 minutes. Use a lint-free wipe and Isopropyl Alcohol to remove the sticky layer from the nails on which design will be applied.
1
2
3
4
5
6
3
Using Nail Designer XO Transfer Foil Gel and Gel Detailer Brush draw the lines on the Middle and a Ring fingers. Cure in an LED Lamp for 30 seconds.
4 5
Press the Silver Transfer Foil onto the sticky layer of the Transfer Foil Gel.
Fill the space between the lines using Lilac Gel Polish. Cue in a UV Lamp for 2 minutes.
6
Apply Gel Polish Top Coat and cure in a UV Lamp for 2 minutes. Remove the sticky layer with Isopropyl Alcohol and a lint-free wipe. Finish of with a drop of Cuticle Oil to each nail. Design is ready!
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Nail Couture Magazine | Issue 1(5) 2015 | www.nailcouture.co.za
nail art class
Design by Ludmila Zolkina, LeChat Certified Instructor, Founder and Creative Director of Lilu Nail Studio, multiple national and international nail competition winner, National Nail Competition Judge, Lugansk, Ukraine
Crystal Effect 1
3
5
2 1 2 3 4 4 5 6 7 8 6
Sculpt the set of French enhancements using the Yellow Crystal Gel for the free edge. File to a desired shape. Using White Nail Art Paint decorate the free edge with a design contour. Using Carving Drill Bit and an Electric Nail File drill the groves following the design contour. Buff the nails and apply a layer of Top Gel. Cure. Using Red 3D Gel sculpt the ribbons of the bow. Using Red 3D Gel sculpt the bow on top of the ribbons and details on the rest of the nails. Sculpt the ribbons using Yellow 3D Gel. Add the polka dots to the bow using White Nail Art Paint. Apply Top Gel and Cure. Design is ready!
7
Nail Couture Magazine | Issue 1(5) 2015 | www.nailcouture.co.za
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nail art class
Design by Pauline Niehaus Bio Sculpture速 Gel West Rand Area Manger & Educator
The Spring/Summer 2015 couture catwalks were all about going back to nature. Engage in the most decadent detailing of this trend with Bio Sculpture速 Gel creations.
Feather & Hand Painted Art With Bio Sculpture速 Gel 1 2
Apply a Bio Sculpture Base Gel layer and cure. Apply two layers of any light cool colour gel. Cure each layer. Do not remove sticky layer.
Place a feather in position, using Bio Sculpture Tweezers. Secure the feather with a grip layer of Soft Gel, from the shaft outwards and cure. Dual Cleanse and trim the feather with the Bio Sculpture Stork Scissors. File and brush away any riffled edges.
1
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3
Use cool gel colours in combination with copper/brown/ gold. Place the dots of colour gel on the feather with a Dotting Tool, followed by smaller dots in each center. Use the tip of an Upper Arch brush to drag the gel dots. Cure. Draw the face and crown of the peacock with an Upper Arch Brush and cool colour of your choice. Cure. Draw the beak with the Art Brush using yellow/orange gel and the eye using no 2017. Cure. Outline to highlight the silhouette and eye with the Upper Arch Brush and gel no 1 and 2017. Cure. Apply gems to the tips of the crown using droplets of Soft Gel on a Metal Pick. Cure. Apply the appropriate Strengthening Gel to seal the nail art. Cure. Dual Cleanse and Refine. Apply Gloss Gel for shine. Cure.
Nail Couture Magazine | Issue 1(5) 2015 | www.nailcouture.co.za
Nails: Victoria Evtushenko Training Nail Studio SerVic, Mariupol, Ukraine
nail couture
MAGAZINE
NAIL ART FILE
fall 2015
nail couture magazine www.nailcouture.co.za
nail art file
Alla Kravchenko, Studio Victory, Kiev, Ukraine
Charlene Biggs, Bio Sculpture Bloemfontein, South Africa
Juljiana Ruzich, Studio Elite, Croatia
Alla Kravchenko, Studio Victory, Kiev, Ukraine
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Stephanie Gompel, French Kiss Beauty Boutique, South Africa
Oksana van Tonder, Nail Couture Academy, South Africa
Alla Kravchenko, Studio Victory, Kiev, Ukraine
Charlene Biggs, Bio Sculpture Bloemfontein, South Africa
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nail art file
Oksana van Tonder, Nail Couture Academy, South Africa
Juljiana Ruzich, Studio Elite, Croatia
Katia da Silva, NSI Johannesburg, South Africa
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Jana Ponฤ รกkovรก, Kendice, Slovakia
Anna Sidorenko, TM NLnobel, Ukraine
Oksana van Tonder, Nail Couture Academy, South Africa
Juljiana Ruzich, Studio Elite, Croatia
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nail couture magazine www.nailcouture.co.za
Su-Mari Nortje, Fablane Nail Studio, Vanderbijlpark, South Africa
nail couture magazine www.nailcouture.co.za
nail art file
Juljiana Ruzich, Studio Elite, Croatia
Charné Naude, Nails by Charné, Middelburg, South Africa
Anna Sidorenko, TM NLnobel, Ukraine
Katia da Silva, NSI Johannesburg, South Africa
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Jana Pončáková, Kendice, Slovakia
Jana Pončáková, Kendice, Slovakia
Charlene Biggs, Bio Sculpture Bloemfontein, South Africa
Isabelle de Lamboy, La Belle Nails & Cosmetics, Berlin, Germany
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nail art file
Juljiana Ruzich, Studio Elite, Croatia
Jana Ponฤ รกkovรก, Kendice, Slovakia
Anna Sidorenko, TM NLnobel, Ukraine
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Isabelle de Lamboy, La Belle Nails & Cosmetics, Berlin, Germany
Juljiana Ruzich, Studio Elite, Croatia
Charlene Biggs, Bio Sculpture Bloemfontein, South Africa
Oksana van Tonder, Nail Couture Academy, South Africa
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nail couture magazine www.nailcouture.co.za
Katia da Silva, NSI Johannesburg, South Africa
nail couture magazine www.nailcouture.co.za
nail art file
Juljiana Ruzich, Studio Elite, Croatia
Oksana van Tonder, Nail Couture Academy, South Africa
Isabelle de Lamboy, La Belle Nails & Cosmetics, Berlin, Germany
Jana Pončáková, Kendice, Slovakia
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Jana Pončáková, Kendice, Slovakia
Jana Pončáková, Kendice, Slovakia
Oksana van Tonder, Nail Couture Academy, South Africa
Elena Tsybulskaya, Ukraine
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nail art file
Oksana van Tonder, Nail Couture Academy, South Africa
Jana Pončáková, Kendice, Slovakia
Jana Duzanec, EuroFashion Exclusive, Croatia
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Charlene Biggs, Bio Sculpture Bloemfontein, South Africa
Isabelle de Lamboy, La Belle Nails & Cosmetics, Berlin, Germany
Oksana van Tonder, Nail Couture Academy, South Africa
Jana Pončáková, Kendice, Slovakia
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nail couture magazine www.nailcouture.co.za
Anna Sidorenko, TM NLnobel, Ukraine
nail couture magazine www.nailcouture.co.za
nail art file
Juljiana Ruzich, Studio Elite, Croatia
Katia da Silva, NSI Johannesburg, South Africa
Jana Pončáková, Kendice, Slovakia
Jana Duzanec, EuroFashion Exclusive, Croatia
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Isabelle de Lamboy, La Belle Nails & Cosmetics, Berlin, Germany
Oksana van Tonder, Nail Couture Academy, South Africa
Anna Sidorenko, TM NLnobel, Ukraine
Jana Pončáková, Kendice, Slovakia
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Cal-Mo (Pty) Ltd.
special feature
Wax on... Wax off: While creating a beautiful set of nails and sending a client to seventh heaven with a “killer” pedicure might be your true calling and you love doing just that, it would be irresponsible for you as a business owner to turn down an opportunity to expand your treatments menu and generate additional income by offering a variety of complementary services.
Profit in the pocket Waxing is probably the easiest treatment you can add to the list of services you offer due to its low set up cost and easy access to professional training. Since there are no formal requirements in place for becoming a Waxing Therapist in South Africa, it is relatively easy to start offering waxing services once you have acquired a certificate or diploma from a professional and reputable beauty college. Most of the suppliers of waxing products offer in-house training and in some cases you get free training with the purchase of the waxing kit and equipment. One of the easiest ways for a nail tech to start waxing services is to offer a toe wax. At the beginning of pedicure season, a one-time free toe waxing session could result in clients requesting it as a standard part of their pedicures going forward. Once your clients become comfortable with you waxing their toes, moving onto shaping their eyebrows, removing hair from their knuckles and other areas of the body will add to that desired salon profit. If you happen to have a private room in your salon that can fit a beauty bed and a waxing trolley, you can add the full range of waxing services to your treatments menu – from head to toe. And since hair is just like nails - never stops growing, you are guaranteed to have a steady income from the waxing business. To ensure the return of waxing clients, educate them on what the hair growth cycle is and suggest pre-booking their next appointment before they leave your salon. Explain what they can expect after the waxing procedure, don’t forget to mention the possibility of ingrown hairs and how to deal with this problem. Also advise them that it takes at least three waxing cycles or 12 weeks, to see and feel the real benefits of waxing. As they start noticing the hair grows out thinner and much lighter use this as a tool to pre-book them for their next appointment before they leave.
special feature
Waxing Treatments Guide Toes Wax
Lip Wax Average Price: R50 Time: 6-7 minutes The lip wax is another facial hair removal surface that is quick and easy, but also quite sensitive. It typically goes with an eyebrow waxing and can be an easy complementary service for first-timers.
Professional tips:
Average Price: R40 Time: 5 minutes
� As
Toe waxing can be a great add-on for pedicures. It gives the client that little extra pampering so they know their entire foot will be smooth and clean for uninhibited bare feet flashing.
� The lip is a sensitive area, so make sure to test the wax
with eyebrow waxing, make sure to ask the client about any recent facial procedures like Botox or peels and any medications that affect the skin.
Professional tips:
temperature on your wrist before you apply the wax to make sure it is not too hot.
� A numbing cream or spray works well on the lip to help reduce pain.
� If toe hair is particularly long, trim with small scissors, making sure not to trim too short. You want the wax to adhere to the hair not the skin.
� Apply wax to one toe at a time in the direction of the hair growth. Then apply the wax strip to the wax.
� Use
the “pat and pull” method - just press for a few seconds and then pull. Continue to do this until the hair is completely removed. The “pat and pull” method is preferred over rubbing, which can cause the wax to become imbedded in the cracks of the toe, making it difficult to remove even when you pull the toe taut.
� After removing hair from all the toes, apply a soothing cream.
Lower Leg Wax Average Price: R120 Time: 15-20 minutes Once the summer season starts, many of your clients will be looking to model their favourite shorts, skirts and dresses, so a lower leg and ankle waxing is a great way to get them ready for the sun.
Professional Tips:
� The
skin on the lower leg can sometimes be dryer and will absorb any moisture in the wax so that when you go to rip, the wax won’t come up. This can also happen if the leg is cold. To help prevent this, give the lower legs a thorough wipe with a PREP Wipe before waxing, and when you apply the strip over the wax, hold your hand over the strip for a moment to partially warm it before pulling it.
� If the client doesn’t normally wax, ask her to grow the hair for 3 weeks before the waxing appointment.
� Be mindful of the way the hair grows on the lower legs, as it can switch direction in different areas.
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special feature
Eyebrow Wax Average Price: R70 Time: 10-15 minutes A very popular waxing service, eyebrow grooming with wax leaves a smooth and shaped result that appeals to many. A sensitive area both in touch and appearance, eyebrow waxing must be done with care and skill, but once you get the hang of it, it can become a waxing best-seller at your salon.
Professional Tips:
� Anytime you wax the face, and especially the eyebrows, you need to ask your client a lot of questions before you start. If they had Botox around the eye area within the last 72 hours, you can disrupt the Botox under the skin and cause bruising. Also, if a client is on Roaccutane, or has just received a facial with alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), her skin is more susceptible to an injury during waxing treatment.
� Hot or Film wax is most suitable to use on eyebrows and the face. Some brands offer special waxing products for sensitive and delicate skin.
� Apply the wax in the direction that the hair grows, and then rip in the opposite direction. � Make sure your application is precise and wax does not touch the hairs you do not intend to remove.
Underarm Wax Average Price: R80 Time: 10-15 minutes Waxing the underarms can help lengthen the time the hair there grows back, and it can also make the regrown hair thinner and finer, thus a little easier to wax the next time.
Professional Tips:
� It’s
good to separate underarm waxing into three sections. A lot of aestheticians are doing it all in one pull, but it’s a sensitive area and a one-pull approach can lead to bruising.
� Underarm hair often grows in a circular pattern, so onepull won’t be able to clear all the hair.
� After
the waxing, instruct your clients not to use deodorant for at least 12 hours, as it can irritate the skin.
5 Safe Waxing Rules Keep consulting. Clients’ health conditions change along with their medical conditions. Having your client read and sign your consultation card helps ensure client safety.
Be professional at all times. Have a clean setup for clients before they enter the room. The wax pot should be spotless; wax sticks, waxing strips, tweezers and other tools should be disinfected and organized on a clean surface.
Always test the wax. Every time! Wax pots are temperamental and can heat the wax to a temperature of discomfort that can even burn the skin. Every time before starting the waxing treatment, test the temperature on the inside of your own arm to make sure it’s safe.
Remind your clients of the hazards. These include sun exposure, hot tubs, steam rooms and “other” sweaty activities for the 12 hours following the waxing procedure. Make it a habit to review this at every appointment.
Follow the manufacturer’s directions and use the full system. “Cherry picking” from many product lines is not always beneficial to the client. Most waxing kits are a complete system, and you’ll get the best performance when they are used the way the products were designed.
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special feature
TOE HAIR REMOVAL TECHNIQUE 1
Prepare the skin for the waxing procedure by applying your favourite PRE-wax cleanser. Dust the area with the talc powder. This step will prevent the wax from sticking to the skin.
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Determine the direction of the hair growth. In most cases the hair on the toes will grow towards the nail. Apply a thin layer of strip wax in the same direction. Avoid getting wax on a varnished nail.
3
Apply a piece of non-woven wax strip on top of the wax and apply firm pressure for a few seconds. Remove the wax strip with a quick pulling motion towards the leg.
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If any hairs are left behind remove them with tweezers by pulling individual hairs in the same direction as the hair growth in a downwards motion.
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Once you are finished with the hair removal procedure, clean the treatment area with your favourite POST-Wax Cleanser to avoid infections and remove the wax residue. Apply Aloe Gel or your favourite Post-Wax Treatment to soothe the skin and alleviate redness.
Step by Step Technique, courtesy of Adele Mans, Fast & Furious Waxing Academy, South Africa. Adele Mans is an Internationally qualified and highly acclaimed beauty therapist with more then 17 years experience in the industry. She has an excellent reputation amongst her clients for “almost pain free” waxing techniques. Adele is the founder and Head Educator at Fast and Furious Waxing Academy, which focuses on providing world class education to everyone who would like to take on a career as a Waxing Specialist.
Beauty school? Not exactly… We train WAXING SPECIALISTS! Our advanced waxing curriculum is unlike any other. It has been researched and developed by the owners and lecturers of Fast and Furious Waxing Specialists. At Fast & Furious Waxing Academy our mission is to uplift the waxing sector by producing the best waxing therapists in the country. Our course entails modular training over a two or three month period. Students can join at the beginning of any month as the course is done continuously. We further aim to offer a higher level of wax education by using external assessors. Students will obtain certificates which will be recognised by employers in the industry as the best education in waxing there is. It’s easy to start planning your career as a Waxing Specialist. We encourage you to meet with us, tour the academy, join a class in session and have a wax with us to know if Fast and Furious Waxing Academy might be right for you.
Visit www.fastandfuriouswaxing.co.za for course dates, alternatively please email fastandfuriouswaxing@gmail.com Registration fees are payable before registration, remaining payments can be arranged monthly Nail Couture Magazine | Issue 1(5) 2015 | www.nailcouture.co.za
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special feature
Professional Waxing Products Guide Order on
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With Harley Wax you can expect more than just a hair removal procedure.
EZ Professional Wax Professional Depilation Wax for All Skin Types EZ Wax is a world known brand that has been loved and trusted by South African waxing therapists for many years. Professional range of waxing products includes depilatory wax, hot film wax, paraffin wax, waxing equipment and accessories.
Expect a nourishing skin treatment that will remove hairs as short as 1mm. Expect quicker delivery times, better customer service and more superior wax.
Please visit www.upfrontdistribution.com or call +27 31 312 3502 / 1266 for more information.
For over 25 years UK manufactured Harley waxing range has been consistent with superior ingredients, high essential oil content and ability to identify and keep up with trends and Salon & SPA requirements.
For orders and enquiries call +27 861 9888 90 (SA only) or +27 28 316 1304 (International) Shop online at www.harleywax.co.za
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ANESI BLUE Film Wax
Anesi Blue Film Wax is a perfect choice for clients with sensitive skin that is prone to irritation and ingrown hairs. This wax is best suitable to use for facial, underarm and intimate areas hair removal. The lower melting point prevents skin burns and hyperpigmentation in clients with darker skin tones. ANESI BLUE Film Wax does not stick to the skin and pulls even the shortest, finest hair from the root. Thinner application of the fine wax insures a lower treatment cost when compared to a traditional hot wax. For more information, pricing and samples contact Exclusive Beauty Solutions, Official Distributor of Anesi Blue Film Wax in South Africa +27 (11) 791 4027, www.exclusivebeauty.co.za
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Nail Couture Magazine | Issue 1(5) 2015 | www.nailcouture.co.za
special feature
Professional Waxing Products Guide
a wax worth waxing with!
Melinda The Waxing Solution Melinda wax is a uniquely formulated product where only the best ingredients are used. Designed and tested by Melinda the waxes are elegantly packaged for the professional waxing therapist. Melinda waxes are unique in the flavours offered and is used by professional waxing therapists. The latest release – Blue Diamond wax is South Africa’s favourite wax. Melinda Wax is also one of the largest distributors in South Africa and for international export. Melinda is the owner of the Helia-D International Beauty School and the only educator in waxing. The school offers training to students and beauty therapists on a weekly basis. She has also produced an educational DVD on waxing techniques for all areas of the body which includes Brazilian Waxing for men and woman.
For more information Call +27 11 7898140, email heliad@iafrica.com or visit www.heliad.co.za
Redinger Laboratories’ Professional White Waxes & Easy-to-use Paraffin Waxes
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The unique formulation of our wax makes it completely hypo-allergenic, and therefore perfect for clients with very sensitive skin. No more redness or rashes post waxing.
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Removes both the strong and fine hair growth gently without leaving sticky residue on the skin.
For more information and pricing email info@redingerlabs.com or visit www.redingerlabs.com
Nail Couture Magazine | Issue 1(5) 2015 | www.nailcouture.co.za
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nail business
Preventing No-Shows and Late Arrivals Every salon occasionally has to deal with clients who book appointments and then show up terribly late or, even worse, don’t show up at all. Unfortunately, clients who miss appointments without calling to cancel are wasting your time as well as preventing you from filling your day with appointments that produce revenue, and while it’s impossible to completely stop no-shows from happening, with a little planning you can reduce them greatly and minimize the effect they have on your bottom line.
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INSTANT ADHESIVE BREAST LIFT
Be sure to give a client an appointment card, even if they say they don’t need one. You might see them entering the next appointment into their phone, but give them a card anyway. Even if it gets tossed in their purse, chances are they’ll see it between appointments and it will help them remember their commitment. You might also consider setting up an SMS reminder programme where you can send a reminder to each of your clients one or two days before their appointments. It might take a few minutes of your time, but will save you a lot of headache in the long run.
WEAR
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ROOF
EASY
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Additionally, you should always make sure you have the correct contact information on file so that you can confirm their appointments in advance, or follow up if they don’t show up for their booking. Even regular clients sometimes change their phone numbers, so ask if it needs to be updated when they rebook their next appointment.
AT
EM
It’s also important to understand that you teach your clients how to behave. Your relationship should be built on mutual respect. If you don’t respect their time, you can’t expect them to place any value on yours. When you’re always running late, either because you’re doing services on clients who showed up late or you’re overbooking your schedule, then you’re telling them it’s OK for them to be late as well since you probably won’t be ready anyway. Unexpected things happen in life every day and sometimes it is out of one’s control, but make your clients understand that you are running a business, and like in any business planning is important. So a courtesy call from them in a case of emergency will allow you to reschedule your appointments and not lose the revenue your business relies on.
A N Y D R E SS YLE
It’s always best to think proactively and stop a problem before it starts. To do that, you should have a clear policy in place for handling problem clients before you need to use it. Make sure your policy is clearly visible in the salon, printed on the consultation card, posted on your web page and that your clients have read and understood it. Then, stick to it! It may be difficult to turn away a client who shows up late, but if you don’t enforce your policy it becomes meaningless. If you say on your website that you’ll refuse service to anyone who is more than 15 minutes late, then do it. Typically you only have to enforce the policy once for the client to realize you mean business and start showing up on time.
IT H
ST
if you don’t enforce your policy it becomes meaningless
W
Every salon occasionally has to deal with clients who book appointments and then show up terribly late or, even worse, don’t show up at all. Unfortunately, clients who miss appointments without calling to cancel are wasting your time as well as preventing you from filling your day with appointments that produce revenue, and while it’s impossible to completely stop no-shows from happening, with a little planning you can reduce them greatly and minimize the effect they have on your bottom line.
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nail business
Labour Relations
in the Hairdressing, Cosmetology and Beauty Industry The Hairdressing, Beauty and Cosmetology Industry is a unique and brilliant industry, it also has an important aspect about it, in that there is a Bargaining Council that acts as a very prominent labour authority over all employees associated with rendering beauty services, as well as those who employ them. Within the council, a process occurs called Collective Bargaining. This process involves negotiating and settling on a Collective Agreement, which acts as the basic conditions of employment specifically for that industry. For example, a janitor working on Sunday while on the Basic Conditions of Employment Act receives double wages, whereas the Collective Agreement for the Hairdressing, Cosmetology and Beauty Industry has stated that Sundays are to be treated as every other work day, and that remuneration will be exactly the same. In order for collective bargaining to take place, two parties need to represent the interests of the employees and the 84
employers, which is normally a Trade Union and an Employer’s Organisation respectively. The parties will then negotiate over the collective agreement with mandates that have been given to them by their members. Factors that are usually negotiated over include minimum wages, work hours, restraint of trades, and much more. Once these factors are all finally settled and agreed upon, the findings are put into a Collective Agreement for administering by the Bargaining Council.
There are three specific organisations supporting and representing the industry as a whole:
The Bargaining Council (HCSBC): Acts as the Administer and compliance enforcer of the Collective Agreement, it is for this reason that all SPAs, salons, or workplaces that involve rendering a beauty service must be registered, along with the employees that work there. This ensures that the Council can effectively observe the happenings in the industry and carry out its allocated functions.
Nail Couture Magazine | Issue 1(5) 2015 | www.nailcouture.co.za
nail business
The Hairdressing & Cosmetology Services Bargaining Council (HCSBC) has a certificate issued by the CCMA stating that they can render the same services offered by the CCMA. For example, if an employee was unfairly dismissed, then instead of lodging a grievance at the CCMA, the employee can go to the HCSBC and lodge a grievance there. The commissioners understand the industry well, and the cases get attended to far quicker than the he caseload at the CCMA. The HCSBC is an unfunded non-profit organisation and the sole source of income are the contributions from the industry. These contributions are used to administer the industry as well as cover the costs involved with the dispute resolution procedure and other industry related responsibilities. Along with this, the HCSBC also sets specific industry standards in place, for example Sick Pay Funds and Pension Funds. They are also the direct link to the South African Labour Department, and all Collective Agreements that are agreed upon, via negotiations between the Union and Employer’s Organisation, are lawful and gazetted by the government.
The Trade Union (UASA): UASA is frequently associated with the hairdressing, cosmetology and beauty industry. The union dates back to 1895 with its main objective in looking after the interests of their members as well as fostering a spirit of unison amongst workers in general. UASA represents employees all the way up to the Labour Court, and also negotiates on an industry-wide scale. Members benefit greatly when joining UASA as there are many extras included in joining the union, other than representation, such as funeral benefits and maternity leave pay outs, discounted lifestyle where savings can be achieved at different retail outlets across the country, as well as discounted accommodation at the Marlicht holiday flats in Margate.
The Employer’s Organisation (EOHCB): A sole Employer’s Association was formed in 1938 specifically for the employers in the industry with the purpose of helping employers within the industry to comply with legislative demands as well as develop and grow their businesses. The Employer’s Organisation for Hairdressing, Beauty and Cosmetology (EOHCB) has trained representatives covering all the districts of South Africa helping to meet the EOHCB’s vision of adding value to your business.
EOHCB assists in all labour matters such as company policies and procedures, representation at conciliation and arbitration, disciplinary codes and procedures, assistance with applying the Collective Agreement, and much more. Employers of the industry are encouraged to join the EOHCB as effective employee management can be difficult and can significantly harm the business, if done incorrectly. The EOHCB’s primary concern is to help the employer maintain and grow their business. Along with assisting clients, the EOHCB also takes part in a significant amount of industrial interaction by holding competitions and education clubs, as well as improving the industry standards as a whole, in both the Hairdressing and Beauty sectors. The EOHCB representatives are trained and knowledgeable in the Collective Agreement, as well as other legislation that can affect and employers’ salons. They are available to provide guidance and assistance, and are well versed in the industry and the possible labour matters that could arise. Labour Relations in the Hairdressing, Cosmetology and Beauty industry follows the Labour Relations Act and is intended to ensure that everyone involved in the industry is fairly represented and have an opportunity to voice any grievances and resolve any disputes. The organisations are run and developed with the intention improving the industry, ensuring fairness amongst everyone involved and ensuring that all the parties involved follow the legislation that has been put in place. The Bargaining Council (HCSBC) Tel: +27 11 760 7685 www.hcsbc.co.za The Trade Union (UASA) Head Office Tel: +27 11 472 3600 www.uasa.org.za The Employer’s Organisation (EOHCB) Western Cape Tel: +27 21 421 3695 Southern Gauteng Tel: +27 11 472 6780
Nail Couture Magazine | Issue 1(5) 2015 | www.nailcouture.co.za
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